Best sports & outdoors according to redditors
We found 97,547 Reddit comments discussing the best sports & outdoors. We ranked the 46,109 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Howard Leight by Honeywell Impact Sport Sound Amplification Electronic Shooting Earmuff, Classic Green (R-01526)
Built-in directional microphones amplify range commands and other ambient sounds to a safe 82 dB, providing more natural listening and enhanced communicationActively listens and automatically shuts off amplification when ambient sound reaches 82 dB; Noise Reduction Rating (NRR): 22Features low profi...
2. Iron Gym Total Upper Body Workout Bar
Turns any doorway into a personal gym; installs in seconds. Fits up to 35.4 inch wide door framesIdeal for pull-ups, push-ups, chin-ups, dips, crunches, and more. Fits up to 35.4 inch wide door framesThree grip positions, narrow, wide, and neutral. Foam gripsUses leverage to hold against the doorway...
3. Casio Men's G-Shock Quartz Watch with Resin Strap, Black, 20 (Model: DW5600E-1V)
With its high-tech functions, shock resistance, and comfortable resin strap, this Casio watch is a reliable go-to timepiece.Quartz digital movement with accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per monthFunctions include multi-function alarm, 1/100-second stopwatch, countdown timer, hourly time signal, auto calen...
4. Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System
Deluxe 5-stone knife sharpening system for kitchen, outdoor, hobby, or garden knivesIncludes extra-coarse, coarse, medium, fine alumina oxide, and extra-fine ceramic honesControlled-angle sharpening system with 17-, 20-, 25-, and 30-degree angle optionsColor-coded stones with finger-grooved safety h...
5. Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 Red Dot Sight Riflescope, 1x25mm, Black
Matte black featuring a 3 MOA Dot reticle with 11 brightness settings; Mounts easily on most picatinny rails and is compatible with pistols, shotguns, rifles and muzzleloadersWaterproof construction: O ring sealed optics stay dry inside, even when totally immersed in water. Parallax - 50Shockproof c...
6. Sawyer Products SP128 Mini Water Filtration System, Single, Blue
Ideal for outdoor recreation, hiking, camping, scouting, domestic and International travel, and emergency preparednessHigh-performance 0.1 Micron absolute inline filter fits in the palm of your hand and weighs just 2 ounces; 100% of MINI units individually tested three times to performance standards...
7. Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade, 4.1-Inch, Military Green
Fixed blade outdoor knife with 4.1-inch high carbon steel bladeLimited lifetime manufacturer’s warranty; Made in SwedenPatterned, high-friction grip makes the knife comfortable to hold and easy to handleBlade length: 4.1 inches (104 mm);Blade thickness: 0.08 inch (2.0 mm); Overall length: 8.6 inch...
8. Delta Cycle Airzound Very Loud Bike Horn Air Hooter | Rechargeable Bell Siren Alarm Super dB
No batteries or cartridges requiredVolume control switchClamp for mounting on 22 - 26mm handlebarRefills with any bike pumpRefills with any bike pump--no batteries or cartridges requiredSuper loud--up to 115 dBVolume controlLifetime warranty on manufacturing defectsAir horn clamps to your bike's han...
9. Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini Heavy Duty Bicycle U Lock Bike Lock
18mm hardened MAX-PERFORMANCE STEEL SHACKLE resists bolt cutters and leverage attacksOversized, patented*HARDENED STEEL SLEEVE over crossbar for double securityDOUBLE DEADBOLT locking for extensive holding powerHIGH SECURITY DISC-STYLE CYLINDERCenter keyway defends against leverage attacksProtec...
10. Kryptonite KryptoLok Series 2 Standard Heavy Duty Bicycle U Lock with 4ft Flex Bike Cable
Replaced with new and improved design in 2017 - check out our New U lock, it will send any bike thief running!13mm hardened MAX-PERFORMANCE STEEL SHACKLE resists cutting and leverage attacksIncludes 4’ KRYPTOFLEX DOUBLE LOOP CABLE for securing front wheel or accessoriesReinforced HARDENED CR...
11. CAP Barbell “The Beast” Bar | 7-Foot Olympic Barbell
Specs: 110, 000 Psi tensile strength Japanese cold rolled steel; 15 Inch loadable sleeve length; the shaft length (inside length between the sleeves) is 51; 5 inches; Handgrip Diameter 28; 5 millimeter; 5 YearConstruction: Built from solid cold rolled steel with a black phosphate finish; Used for tr...
12. Spyderco Tenacious Value Folding Knife with 3.39" Stainless Steel Blade and Durable Non-Slip G-10 Handle - PlainEdge - C122GP
GAME CHANGER - Being tenacious means you are persistent and cohesive. It's being tough and tireless in achieving your best performance; all worthy descriptive words for a hard-use knifeSUPERIOR BLADE STEEL - The 3.39" 8Cr13Mov stainless blade is leaf-shaped and ground flat from spine to cutting edge...
13. Body-Solid Powerline PPR200X Adjustable Power Rack for Weightlifting and Strength Training
QUALITY CONSTRUCTION: Power racks help weightlifters work out safely and effectively at homeSAFETY: The Body-Solid Powerline Power Rack has a wide walk-in design with 24 inches between upright pillars for easy motion during trainingCAPACITY: Rack weighs 133lbs, and has 2 heat-tempered lift-offs, and...
14. Kershaw Cryo Folding Knife (1555TI); 2.75” 8Cr13MoV Steel Blade, Stainless Steel Handle, Titanium Carbo-Nitride Coating, SpeedSafe Assisted Open, Frame Lock, 4-Position Deep-Carry Pocketclip; 4.1 OZ
Sport type: Hunting
15. TriggerPoint Grid Foam Roller with Free Online Instructional Videos, Original (13-Inch), Black
Patented foam roller design offers a superior, multi-density exterior constructed over a rigid, hollow coreConstructed from quality materials that won't break down or lose shape from repeated useIncludes access to free online instructional video library on foam rolling best practices from the expert...
16. Black Mountain Products Resistance Band Set with Door Anchor, Ankle Strap, Exercise Chart, and Carrying Case
Bands included: Yellow (2-4 lbs.), blue (4-6 lbs.), green (10-12 lbs.), black (15-20 lbs.) and Red (25-30 lbs.). All bands are 48 inches in lengthThis stackable set of resistance bands can produce up to 75 lbsFeatures a metal clipping System on bands for attachment to soft-grip handles or ankle stra...
17. AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Mini
Connect to paintball CO2 tank, no adapter required, no assembly required. (PLEASE NOTE: Paintball tank is NOT included, for demonstration purposes only). Please fill up your paintball CO2 tank if you purchased the tank online (e.g. Amazon) before using the regulator. The paintball CO2 tank is shippe...
18. Stamina 1690 Power Tower
WHY POWER TOWER? Power Towers allow for many different bodyweight exercises, helping you lose weight, build muscle and improve heart health. Bodyweight routines are invigorating and effective for major muscle groups.DIMENSIONS: 49 x 42.5 x 81 | Weight: 61 lbsALL-IN-ONE FITNESS EQUIPMENT: The versati...
19. Citizen Men's Eco-Drive Chronograph Watch with Date, AT0200-05E
Military-inspired stainless steel watch with round dial, red contrasting second hand, and rugged green canvas bandJapanese quartz movement with analog display. Operating temperature range is -10°C to +60°C/14°F to 140°FFeatures include protective mineral crystal dial window, date window, three s...
20. BRS 3000T Stove Ultralight Backpacking Stove Titanium Camping Stove
Powerful and efficient,generates 2700W; Boils water quickly, about 2 minutes 58 seconds to boil 1L water. Rated gas consumption is around 140g per hour.Stable, even flame; Smooth flame adjustment.Super easy. Just flip those pot support legs out and twist the stove on your canister. Tip: make sure th...
Adjustable DumbellsGet these instead
Optional: Adjustable Bench
Total ~$320 after shipping. Can probably find cheaper stuff from other brands or on craigslist.
There isn't a muscle in you body you can't work with this setup.
EDIT: Didn't notice how light the dumbells were. Found a heavier and cheaper set.
Don't go hunting without electronic earmuffs. Seriously, they're amazing. You can still hear everything, and then when you do actually shoot it saves your hearing.
$18.39 for approximately 99736 more gallons of actual safe drinking water
A few more ideas :
I would suggest having a battery-powered FM radio (and extra batteries if it's battery powered, or get one which charges via USB like the one I linked) to listen to the news and get vital information.
Also (if not too late), order a sawyer mini (best) or lifestraw (not as good). If you don't have access to clean water it can help you stay healthy (beware of chemical contamination which cannot be removed by these).
If you have the money, get a Garmin inReach satellite communicator (requires a (relatively cheap) subscription, down to $15ish a month). You can request SOS (much like 911), and send/receive SMS and e-mails, even without cell coverage. Excellent to keep in touch with relatives and in case of emergency. Can be used year-round when hiking, snow-mobile, skiing, ... Don't tell anyone you have this...
Download the offline map of your area on Google Maps on your phone beforehand. Can be priceless to navigate around and doesn't require internet access. Also get the Maps.Me app and download the map of your area too. Google Maps offline maps will expire and disappear from your phone after 30 days (I believe), Maps.Me maps will not.
If the cell service in your area is out of order, use your phone in airplane mode so that it doesn't continuously and desperately looks for a cell to connect to, which will drain the battery VERY quickly. Also use it on the lowest practical brightness setting to save battery power.
If not too late, get big USB power banks (>=10000mAh such as this one) and fully charge them beforehand. It's good as barter items and it can be nice to recharge your things when you have no access to a generator (on the go, or if you don't want to run the generator to avoid attracting attention). You can also get USB lights (this one for instance) and your powerbank doubles as a flashlight with a very long battery life.
Get a first aid kit, and not just one with bandaids... Get a CAT tourniquet, trauma dressing, Celox (preferred) or QuikClot bandage, triangular bandage, SAM splint, ... and know how to use them. Also get the basic medecines (stomach/diarrhea relief, basic painkillers, anti-allergy, and any prescription medecine if you require any). Remember 911 service may be unavailable for some time and you need to be able to take care of injuries. Tourniquets save lives, everyone should have one readily available.
I am a radio amateur and in these situations I like to have one or two portable radio for two-way communication but I realize it is not for everybody. Still, a pair of FRS/GMRS radio can be helpful. Please note that GMRS requires a (cheap) license in the USA. I would recommend this model which also allows to be used as a scanner and to program the NOAA weather frequencies (do it beforehand) and some local police/EMS/fire frequencies (if allowed in your juridiction).
Please DO NOT use a radio made for amateur radio use, where you can transmit on any frequency, such as the UV-5R; you may interfere with emergency communications, even if you can't hear them, miles away. Please stick to the FRS/GMRS frequencies. The radio above guarantees safe operation and still allows to be used as a scanner.
Take pictures of all your important documents (ID, properties, ...) and store them in a waterproof plastic bag. Try to keep at least your passport and driver license with you during the storm...
If you have a sump pump, try to arrange so that it can be battery powered and/or connected to your generator. If using battery power, get a battery charger and/or a generator connection, if the outage lasts and the battery runs down. Sometimes homes are not affected by the main storm but are flooded due to the lack of power around the storm and are still ruined, and that's totally preventable.
Also, beforehand, depending of the situation you might want to BLOCK your main sewage pipe. This way you might avoid sewage backflow into your home. There are normally valves already installed but in case of serious flooding (high backpressure) they sometimes are not up to the task.
Download a few offline movies on the Netflix app (if you have Netflix). I never lived though a hurricane but I assume after a few days/weeks, you might want some entertainment. You can also download e-books. Bonus if it's survival-related e-books.
Hope this helps... good luck to those affected
PS: oooo, thank you stranger for the gold, I think I never had one before ! Happy prepping :)
The classic Companion is a sore dick deal - you just can't beat it!!
Life straw is not a great product. Spend a little extra and get the Sawyer. It is a better, more useful product. It just doesn't have as cool of a name.
Yup, see: Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit lock, the thing costs $100 and the opening is like 6" x 3.5".
But if you live in NYC, no matter what kind of lock you use, if you leave a nice bike locked up outside overnight, there's a 50% chance it won't be there the next day.
Casio Gshock DW5600E
Price: 45 dollars new
Style: digital sports watch
Size: 45mm case diamater
Description: probably the best cheap tool watch you can find. Water resistant to 200m, shock proof, and generally all around tough. As one of the smaller gshocks, it's probably the one I recommend the most (along with its solar atomic variant). A gshock will easily last you a decade or so with a battery change every couple of years. Plus, if you're a horological snob or something, this watch is one of the few watches approved by NASA for space travel. And if rumours are to be believed, it's one of the more common watches in space. I honestly think this watch belongs in every collection. It really is the perfect beater watch.
A lot of people are asking about pullups and whether they are optional, because "they don't have anywhere to do pullups".
Pullups are not optional. They are vital for correcting many shoulder imbalances people have. Sitting in front of the computer all day in a hunched over position weakens the muscles on the back of your torso and tightens the muscles in the front of the torso. Once you start training then, if you only train pushing exercises such as pushup, this imbalance is further exacerbated and will likely lead to injuries down the line.
As far as not having anywhere to do pullups, you'll just have to be creative. I've done pullups on trees, on playgrounds, on powerlifting equipment, on carports, on stairwells, and so on and so forth. Here are 100 ideas to get you started. Of course, you can also just buy a pullup bar. They're inexpensive (30 bucks), will last you a long time, and help you get strong and healthy. They're a fantastic investment. Don't worry about your doorframes: unless you have really abnormal rames, you can be reasonably certain this will not do them any harm.
I'd like to finish with a plug for /r/bodyweightfitness, which is a subreddit dedicated to all kinds of bodyweight training. We have a large community with super helpful veteran users, weekly threads with tons of advice and helpful info, weekly threads where users can post about their routines and their experiences with them (showreel compiled from the showoff threads), and much much more. If you do decide to visit us, please refer to the FAQ before posting, and make sure you follow the rules. Hope to see you there!
You should get an iron gym no setup necessary, I love mine.
Kawhi's choice of foam roller , for anyone interested.
Not great for beginners or anyone looking for a full-body solution, but my go-to for anything related to the leg.
Howard Leight Impact Sport
Those are not designed to purify water.
You want these guys: http://www.amazon.com/Potable-Aqua-Water-Purification-Tablets/dp/B0009I3T3S/
Or these: http://www.amazon.com/McNett-Aquamira-Water-Treatment-Drops/dp/B00CHRFQPI
filter? check out the Sawyer Mini: http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2
if you're in a pinch, do a little homework with using ordinary bleach ... or prepare to boil
DW-5600E is the basic (but still great!) no frills square.
Tells the time, has alarms and stop watches, counts up and down, an auto backlight, and calendar to 2039. It's dive rated to 200 meters, and has an electronic luminescent backlight, much like indiglo if you have a Timex.
GWM-5610 is all of the above, along with world time, and has the two biggest features for some: solar charging and atomic radio syncing.
For many, this is the THE "square." It's robust, self sufficient, and has a classic look without looking too dated or too ultra modern. The display is slightly different than the 5600E.
GLX-5600 is most similar to the budget 5600E above but has an additional bit of display for tide and moon information. Still as tough, still as cool looking.
GLS-5600 is a more recent, stylish variant of the 5600E. It come in 4 neat colors (black, white, green, and sand) and features a moving seconds complication on the face. Also, it features a "Low Temp LCD," this LCD is rated to go to -20 C. Honestly as you're wearing it on your person, a normal 5600E can go pretty cold as it also has your body heat. Possibly most importantly for some people, this model comes standard with strap adapters and a really comfy clothes NATO strap standard.
GWM-5610-1BJF is the Japanese only, blacked out model of the radio/solar 5610. These can be imported pretty easily through Amazon, so of cost isn't an issue, don't let the import bother you. The Japanese models also usually feature slightly more supple, softer resin straps and a screwback case, like on a mechanical time piece.
While not exclusively a 5600, if you need a big honkin' watch, the GX-56 is basically a thick 5600. Huge buttons and case, has all of the features of a 5610 with a cool moving seconds graphic like the GLS.
Many of these can be found in various colors and feature variants, so as a recap/guide:
5600 - standard square G Shock
5610 - radio/solar square model
GLX - surfing/tide model
GLS - stylish colors, comes with NATO strap
GX-56 - huge "King" G Shock
BB after model number - blacked out model
JF after model number - Japan import
Hopefully this helped. I had a lot of fun making this.
An 'airzound' the button / horn mounts on your handlebars and you can pump it back up with a bike pump
Great question: if you only can afford one piece of equipment, I would go with a door frame pull-up bar: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452622351&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=pull+up+bar
You can do every other movement with just your bodyweight. Squats, lunges, push-ups, and then you can use the bar to work towards pull-ups.
If you can't do a pull-up yet, here is a plan to get there!
If I were to buy another roller it would be another grid roller. Every time. Gets deep and does the trick. Forget the soft ones, they don't do what needs to be done if you actually have trigger points, and workout long enough, you will get them.
Also get a lacrosse ball for small areas.
20 seconds is enough time to do a fair few pullups. Start doing negatives immediately. You're still training your grip strength when you're doing negatives.
Go try doing a negative right now. It's easy. Jump to the top of the pullup position (or use a chair, whatever) and try to slow your descent using your muscles. If you descend at a rate slower than free-fall, congratulations! You've just done a negative!
disclaimer: You need to be able to slow your descent enough not to be slamming your joints into lockout. So if you think this is going to happen don't do it.
edit: Get a door-gym style pullup bar like this: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=pd_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1W8FVV3HHHJKPG1Q14Y5
Don't get a traditional pullup bar because they are either unsafe or they require you to screw them into the door frame.
Bite my shiny metal ass.
Dont forget a lock. I use this one $80 this one is more affordable $35
drunkriding requires lighting. People seem to like cygolite.
[Nice singlespeed tool $20 ] (https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM)
That bike has rack mounts. Racks mean you can bring more than one case of beer home at a time.
I dont carry much else on the singlespeed. A small $2 patch kit, tire levers and an inflator.
Edit: The Modified Sheldon, credit: 802bikeguy
This is what I have had for over a year. Great purchase.
Get a sawyer mini instead, about the same price and you don't have to bend down and stick your face in the water.
Sawyer Products SP128 Mini Water Filtration System, Single, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1FJXCbNV7FQ2S
May I recommend getting an airhorn? http://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC
As a motorcyclist that has been hit twice by motorists not paying attention, I feel like I've got some hard earned wisdom on this topic. You really have to let the pride of right-of-way go, get out of their way and let them know of your presence. Right-of-way doesn't matter anymore when you're in the hospital.
I can personally vouch for this one. Same thing as the one you linked but smaller scale.
I've used that one before, its ok for getting out kinks, but I prefer this one. It's better on your back if you're trying to get out knots and roll out the spine, plus its hard enough to put your body weight on; I'm 250+lbs so it holds my weight well. It's a little more costly but it works well.
Most people will probably recommend an AR-15, a 12-guage pump shotgun, or a 9mm pistol; but I've actually been moving away from those types of guns after I started to learn more about how much permanent damage firearms do to your hearing. If you ever shoot an AR-15 or a shotgun indoors without hearing protection, you'll probably rupture your eardrums and hear an annoying ringing sound for the rest of your life. So, I'd prefer to avoid that if possible. That's why I recently bought a 9mm carbine (a 9mm rifle with a shoulder stock and a 16-inch barrel) as my new primary home defense weapon. Yeah, you lose out on some terminal performance (killing power), but 30-ish rounds of 147-grain 9mm Federal HST should be enough to deal with 99.999% of home invaders.
An AR-15 chambered in 5.56x45mm NATO will create about 167 decibels (anything above 140 decibels will permanently damage your hearing); a rifle chambered in .308 Winchester will create 170+ decibels; a 9mm pistol with a 4-inch barrel will create about 160 decibels; a 9mm carbine with a 10-inch barrel will create about 156 decibels; and a 9mm carbine with a 16-inch barrel will create about 152 decibels. I haven't been able to find reliable information about how many decibels a 12-gauge shotgun creates, but it's probably in the 160s.
152 decibels still isn't hearing safe; but the difference between 152 decibels and 167 decibels is huge since sound doubles in strength every 3 decibels. 152 decibels will still hurt your ears and cause permanent hearing damage if you hear it repeatedly; but it won't completely destroy your ears like a 5.56x45mm rifle or a 12-gauge shotgun will.
And the reason why I went with a 9mm carbine over a 9mm pistol is because carbines are much easier to aim, you get much quicker followup shots, you get a little bit more bullet velocity (and thus foot-pounds of energy and terminal performance), and there's still a large sound difference between 152 decibels and 160 decibels.
As to which specific 9mm carbines I recommend, I'll give you 3 different options to choose from.
The cheapest option: The Kel-Tec Sub-2000 Gen 2 ($500-ish but hard to find). I'm personally not a fan of Kel-Tec quality standards and aesthetics, but the Kel-Tec Sub-2000 is one of the few firearms that Kel-Tec makes that the vast majority of people in the gun community agrees is a good gun. I'd get the version that accepts Glock magazines and stick a 33-round Glock magazine in it. Glock magazines are widely regarded as being the best magazines in the world; and the 33 rounders that they make are widely regarded as being reliable.
The mid-tier option: The CMMG Mk9LE ($900-ish). From the research that I did on AR-15s chambered in 9mm, the ones made by CMMG are highly regarded as being reliable. I recommend using the 32-round Uzi magazines from IWI. Based on your criteria, this would be my top recommendation for you.
The high-tier option: The KRISS Vector GEN II CRB ($1,300-ish). This is the option that I personally went with. I chose it because it's reliable and because it looks amazing.
I also want to go out of my way to rule out a popular option: The CZ Scorpion EVO 3 S1 Carbine. The "pistol" version is wildly popular; but I've personally seen way too many horror stories about all-polymer magazines stretching and breaking their own feed lips after being stored loaded for a long period of time (which is what you'd be doing with a home defense weapon). So, until CZ upgrades their polymer magazines with steel-reinforced feed lips (like Glock does), I'd personally stay away from their products that use those types of magazines.
And I know that you said that you didn't want to add accessories, but a light is a mandatory accessory on a home defense firearm in my opinion (so that you can positively identify your target before you shoot and therefore hopefully avoid accidentally shooting a loved one). The Streamlight ProTac 2 and the INFORCE WMLx would be my top 2 recommended lights for long guns.
As to which bullets that I'd recommend, I already mentioned them: 147-grain 9mm Federal HST (standard pressure). The 124-grain 9mm Federal HST (standard pressure) is also extremely good. I wouldn't hesitate buying and using either of them for home defense. This website will help you find them in stock.
I also highly recommend this accessory in order to make loading your pistol magazines much, much easier.
As to bullet overpenetration, all major rounds will zip right through several of the kinds of walls that you'd find in a typical home. The only "safe" option is birdshot (used in shotguns), but birdshot doesn't penetrate deep enough into the human body (you want 12 to 18 inches of penetration according to FBI tests) to reliably stop a home invader (and therefore birdshot obviously shouldn't be an option for home defense in my opinion). Don't listen to the people that will tell you that the 5.56x45mm NATO round is safer to use because it tends to tumble and fragment when it hits a wall. It will still penetrate through several walls. You just have to be careful about how you angle your shots. That's really your only way to avoid hitting innocent people.
And if you're not as worried as I am about permanently damaging your own hearing while defending your home, then the Smith & Wesson M&P15 SPORT II would be my top rifle recommendation (I recommend pairing it up with 30-round magazines from Lancer); the Mossberg 500 series of shotguns would be my top shotgun recommendation; and the full-size Smith & Wesson M&P9 would be my top pistol recommendation. And I'd pair them up with this electronic hearing protection if I was you.
As to ammo recommendations for the 3 options that I listed above, I recommend Hornady 75-grain BTHP T2 TAP (8126N) or Hornady 5.56 NATO 75-grain BTHP Superformance Match (the .223 version that Hornady makes is also fine); this Managed-Recoil 8-pellet 00 buckshot from Remington (it patterns very tightly); and the 147-grain 9mm Federal HST that I already mentioned above, twice.
And if you go with a pistol, then I recommend the Streamlight TLR-1 as a mandatory accessory.
As to lubricant, you can't really go wrong with Break-Free CLP.
Literally impossible to go wrong with these. They come in different colors too and the prices vary. Other vendors on Amazon sometimes have them for less.
Howard Leight by Honeywell Impact Sport Sound Amplification Electronic Shooting Earmuff, Classic Green (R-01526) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j5MMBbN1YEPDY
If you’re shooting a rifle, it’s wise to double up, using little soft ear plugs in addition to the muffs, if you can bear it. Hearing cannot he restored...
I have had a shitty week so I treated myself to a grab bag. Probably won't get anything super great, but I hear it is fun to sort it all out. Thanks Op.
Edit: Thanks for whoever gave me gold! Long story short, this knife will cut the nerve in your finger with the slightest slip up and will require surgical repair.
Anything else I need to know to care for them? I just ordered one of these and an Opinel aside from keeping them dry anything else they need?
I don't care what earbuds/earphones you're wearing, when this goes off ten feet behind you while rollerblading you'll jump right the ($&*#% out of your skin...
Casio G-Shock DW5600E-1V
Price: $40-$45 ($69.95 MSRP)
Movement: quartz, digital
Size: 48.9 x 42.8 x 13.4mm (specs from Casio's website)
Link: Casio's page, Amazon page
Basic quartz model (battery will probably last 2-3 years), 200m WR. One of the cheaper G-Shocks, which are the gold standard for watches that can take abuse and beatings.
Is your dorm room a tiny single? If you have a spare doorway somewhere, pull up bars are pretty cheap. My roommate has one of these that can be put on and off. He tends to not use it very much though and leaves it buried in his room, so I bought this for myself. Unfortunately I had to put it on my room's entryway door (would have preferred a place inside out of view like the closet, but was worried about the walls) but it sits high enough to not be very noticeable. Supports use three screws into either side, the bar itself is easy to remove, and I haven't had any issues. Great for just running through a few pull ups, chin ups, and leg raises whenever going in and out.
Flashlight: Jetbeam MK-1 ($19)
Knife: Kershaw Cryo ($30)
Pen: Zebra F-701 ($8)
Multi-Tool: Leatherman Squirt ($33)
Money Clip ($5)
Cheap, battery lasts a long time, works pretty damn well.
Ive been using these for the better part of 2 years now, and they work perfectly. I mainly use them for shooting outdoors but I've had friends stand 50+ feet away and say something and it will amplify what they say. It feels like cheating in a video game almost.
Yes, headphones aren't ear protection. They don't adequately block harmful external noise. You can, however, get electronic hearing protection that include input jacks so you can protect your ears and listen to music (unless you have the new iPhone).
Electronic ear muffs are great. It's hard to beat the Howard Leight Impact Sport for the money, but they gave me a headache after wearing them all day at matches. I use custom molded plugs and a set of MSA Sordin's now and they're well worth the $$$ for me.
As far as eye pro, it really depends on what kind of shooting you do. A decent set of glasses with 3-5 interchangeable lenses is really nice to have.
Get the Sawyer mini instead for $19: http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2
Anyone looking at this should look at the Sawyer as a (better) alternative.
Lifestraw is $20. Sawyer is $20. I own the Sawyer and the flow through it is easy. It comes with a squeeze bag, but also attaches to regular bottles. Fill an empty Pepsi/Coke/Water bottle with nasty water, screw on the Sawyer and you are good to go. It works with Platypus bags, and as an inline or end filter for any hydration bladder.
If there is something special about the Lifestraw that I am missing, please let me know. I see tons of news, charaties buying them for 3rd world countries, and outdoor enthusiast recommending it. I do not see any advantage it has over a Sawyer filter.
Edit: One comparison: http://prepforshtf.com/sawyer-mini-water-filter-vs-lifestraw/
For me, the multiple ways of using the Sawyer have been the biggest benefit. I've used my Squeeze in a bucket gravity system, attached to bottles (ultralight backpacking) and with a straw (like a Lifestraw). I will often squeeze enough water to fill a Gatorade bottle or two before moving away from the water source. Now I have the mini and the flow rate is even better - best of any filter I've ever used, and it is still incredibly versatile.
/u/fetch04 is right. You are going to want to learn from youtube and practice before you show your son.
-Skills you will want to acquire:
-Basic equipment you'll want:
Casio g-shock. Lasted through five years of Marine Corps and F-18 maintenance. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GAYQKY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_g066BbW78K41M
I have a Casio DW5600-E. They're bullet proof.
The Spyderco Sharpmaker is a great knife sharpener to use. I believe it has 15 and 20 degree angles.
There is an alternative(and cheaper) Lansky Turnbox That sharpens at 20 and 25 degree angles. These two systems are great to travel with.
If you want a beginner sharpening system you could get a Lansky System but if you ever get higher end steels you will need to upgrade to Diamond system. You will also need to get a Lansky mount or clamp. It also has a wide variety of accessories and stones.
You can also get Fixed angle knife shapener that is like an apex edge. If uses the same stone size so you could order upgraded plate sets at a cheap price.
The system that I have been using is the 5th Gen Sharpener. It uses the same stones and plate size as an Apex as well. The only downside is the that it takes forever to arrive from china.
These work pretty well.
I have the iron gym pullup bar. I like it because it fits in my doorway, is super sturdy, and my body seems to default to hammer grip which you can't do with a single bar.
Your mileage may vary. It really just depends on where and how you want to use it.
Iron Gym I believe is what you're referring to, and I have one as well. It's been great and I haven't had any damage. I think you can find them for ~$20 in stores, but YMMV.
Sawyer Products SP128 Mini Water Filtration System, Single, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MzGzDbKTT58GD
I have an in-line attachment for hydration pack.
There’s a little pump too.
Water Purifier Pump with Replaceable Carbon 0.01 Micron Water Filter, 4 Filter Stages, Portable Outdoor Emergency and Survival Gear - Camping, Hiking, Backpacking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVCBWVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MBGzDbY1W35D3
Drop the Life Straw and use a Sawyer Mini.
I use these. They work great and you can double up with plugs and crank the volume so you can still converse with other people.
I really like Bushnell TRS-25. Its under $90 at amazon. No problem holding its zero after 1K rounds.
Now 69.99 http://www.amazon.com/Bushnell-Trophy-TRS-25-Reticle-Riflescope/dp/B00200E0HM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381418979&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=trs+25
I encourage you to try electric ear protection. It has a microphone and speakers that amplifies anything below a certain decibel. So you can hear people talking, but it still drowns out gunfire.
The Iron Gym works pretty well for me.
A foam roller is a more or less a big log of foam that can be used as a fitness tool or massage device. Placing the foam roller on the ground and rolling different muscle groups over it is very delightful. Using it on the legs and back can offer a great solo massage that is a great release after a hard workout.
I recently bought The Grid and couldn't be happier!
As noted, this might be worth a look OP. Personally I think you'll be able to use that knife you bought, but you'll find it will wear down or break. Not because it can't cut, but because it isn't designed for heavy use. Just keep that in mind. Anyway here's the Mora people are talking about.
Edit: and everyone in this sub has bought a knife just like yours (we aren't trying to be assholes, we just are naturally occurring assholes). There's a reason we're recommending something else.
Everyone loves a Morakniv
Typical Gig Bag:
Howard Leight Impact Sport are pretty well regarded.
And on a good sale.
This is the classic G-Shock, made by Casio. Waterproof, shock resistant, and a polymer case so it would be less likely to damage something compared to steel. It is a good go anywhere, do anything kind of watch, and can stand up to some amazing abuse.
I am a moderator at /r/Watches. I wrote about six paragraphs and Alien Blue crashed. I will edit this post tomorrow Morning EST will dump more info than you will ever need.
Short answer: G-shock.
Long answer: Luminox Recon.
EDIT: OK, jeez! Sorry that I have a job to do besides moderate a sub and edit posts from the night before...
Basically, G-Shocks are the go-to choice for military and law enforcement. They are super rugged and are actually difficult to break on purpose. I wear a GR7900KG-3 (pictured elsewhere in the comments), that is a limited edition colorway of OD green and orange with an inverted screen. The non-limited edition of my watch, the GW7900B-1 has a laundry list of great features: it's solar-powered, has a perpetual calendar (automatically adjusts for different length months like February), tide graph, dual time, time-zome adjustment, 200m depth water resistence, uses one of G-Shocks better anti-shock systems, (edit: there are about 15 other features that I'm not listing) and the best feature of all... it uses radio synchonization to set the time for you, based off of the nearest atomic clocks located around the world.
There is also the much more affordable, original G-Shock. They make a "reissue" of it called the DW5600E-1V. It's not going to give you any of the fancy features, but it is tough as hell and will probably survive getting run over by a tank. It's also 1/3rd the cost of the 7900.
Obviously there are a million G-Shocks to choose from. These are just my personal suggestion and the most common, inexpensive suggestion. However, you said "nice watch." I wouldn't field a "nice watch" airsofting (I use my G-Shock), but if you wanted to, and wanted to have it be presentable the rest of the time it spends on your wrist, I suggest a Luminox Recon Point Man.
The most important difference here over other Luminox watches is the sapphire glass crystal. Unless they are shooting BBs made of jagged diamonds, it isn't going to harm your watch. A regular mineral crystal can shatter from the force of taking a round. Unless they shoot your watch directly from about 15 feet away, nothing is going to break a sapphire crystal. The Recon Point man just so happens to have a sapphire glass crystal.
It comes in the colors:
I have a Luminox (pictured elsewhere in the comments) with their proprietary NATO/hybrid strap. It is not a normal NATO strap, and it is not a normal Zulu strap. It takes the best features of both of these designs and merges them into their own proprietary thing. It is hands down the best nylon watch strap I've ever seen.
The most important feature of a Luminox watch is the tritium gas tube lume. There are tiny tubes marking the hands and hour positions that constantly glow because the tritium isotope contained inside the tubes is radioactive. Tritium is commonly used in firearms sights, and provides the best nighttime and low-light visibilty. It's awesome. Now, the Recon is a polycarbonate case, whereas my Black Ops (discontinued, now called the ANU) is 316L steel PVD coated black. Poly watches aren't bad, they are just different. It will feel light and... just not as strong. Then again, G-Shocks are the same way, so really you aren't losing out on anything. So I assure you that the PC-cased Recon is in fact tough as hell.
It will also serve as a conversation piece. A common thing for a watch is to make a statement. The kid flipping burgers wears a G-Shock. Not to say this should matter, but it does when discussing an accent piece such as a watch. It's like saying there isn't a difference between real gear and airsoft brand gear - there is undeniably a caché that goes with the more expensive stuff.
So, all in all, I recommend the Luminox Recon.
Get the Iron Gym pullup bar. It fits over the door frame and works like a charm.
Might be earplug versions of this sort of tech: http://smile.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Amplification-Electronic-R-01526/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464987927&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ear+protection+noise+shooting
Surprised me when I tried em at a shooting range, you can hear conversations 10 tables away but it muffles the shooting sounds.
I would recommend Impact Sport electronic. They are very compact for electronic earmuffs and have an audio jack to plug in your iPod. I wear mine at the range, working with power tools, etc.
EDIT Bonus for hunting, they enhance all the sound around you so you will hear those deer really well from afar.
Howard Leight Impact Sports. I've been using mine for several years now and they work great.
They have adjustable sound amplification for low-dB noises (speech, game, environment) and automatically dampen high-dB hoises (gunshots). I've been very, very impressed with them and even use them when doing yardwork and such, too.
Also, they're about $40. That's hard to beat.
I recommend getting a U-Lock along with an extension cable. You want to put the U-Lock somewhere through the rear triangle like this.
This locks the rear wheel and the frame. Then you want to loop the extension cable through the U-Lock and put it through your front tire so it is also secure. Kryptonite, Abus, and On Guard are all good lock brands. Something like this lock would work fine, but there are more expensive options if you want to be more secure. I personally use this lock. All locks are about buying time because an angle grinder can cut through any lock in a few minutes. I suggest parking it to something secure, something public, and well-lit. Also, make sure to register your bike through TAPS because if someone steals your bike or puts a lock on it, they won't be able to help you. Good luck!
Perhaps a loud noise maker (air horn) would have sufficed as a next step. Pepper-spray is more of a last-resort deterrent, something that should only be used when one is in peril (but only you can be the judge of that).
A loud, sudden noise will both startle the harasser and attract attention from others to your plight.
On my bike, the angle from my handlebars to 2 feet in front of the tire is different from my eyeballs to 2 feet in front of the tire.
Seriously, think about it this way; do you just barely peek over the top of your handlebars when you ride? Unless your seat is all the way down, and you have "ape hanger" handlebars...
Shameless recommendation for excellent bicycle air horn. Loud enough for cars to hear. If you bike commute, give it a look.
Jetboils boil water better than almost anything. If you're eating freeze-dried mountain house meals or something, you can't really beat it. Otherwise, they're just like any other canister stove.
If you want something simple/light/cheap, you could get something like:
This BRS Stove and
This Ti pot or a bigger one for more people/larger meals
and a canister
For hearing protection get Howard Leight Impact Sport plus wear foam earplugs underneath.
The PowerLine PPR200X Power Rack is often under $300 shipped on Amazon.
I wrote this up earlier today for someone who wanted to start getting prepped on ~$75/Month but also wanted to not have to cook the foods. I did include some long term storage as the first step anyway because it's so cheap and easy, but so far as consumables go, this is a good start for you.
A lot of this is a shelf life and storage space issue. If you have plenty of room for storage, I'd start like this:
Buy two 50lb bags of white rice from a place like Costco or Sam's Club. Find 3 food safe 5 gallon buckets with lids. Get Mylar Bags and O2 Absorbers. Then hit Youtube for instructions on what to do with them. If the Mylar bags bit will hold you back from doing this, then skip them and just clean the buckets then dump rice in them straight. Seal, date, set aside. That's 160,000 calories in month 1. Given normal pantry supplies that stretches things out quite a ways. Plan on rotating out at 7ish years if put straight into the bucket and 20 years if you use the Mylar. Realistically, with Mylar, white rice may be good for much longer than 20 years (most people say 30, but for the minimal investment I'd rotate earlier to be safe).
Grab a Water Bob (not right now though, hurricane season has prices high and stocks low for them). Also, a Sawyer Water Filter or two. That gives you an opportunity to grab an extra hundred gallons of water in your bathtub initially given enough warning, and some water purification options later on.
Assuming you have storage capacity, start looking at #10 cans of food. Those are the cans that are around a foot tall and very wide. Look for things that you would eat and would be usuable in your daily lives, but also ones that would be calorie dense. For example, refried beans, nacho cheese, baked beans, white potatoes, chick peas, chili with beans, etc. Those are things you can use in recipes at home, but can pick them up and store them for a couple of years first. Getting them in the larger can is a better return on investment/dollar than buying smaller ones.
If your pantry isn't topped up with the things your family normally eats, drop that money to get a little deeper on those things. Velveeta cheese, crackers, cans of soup, noodles, peanut butter/jelly, canned vegetables/fruit, pasta/sauce, salsa, dried/canned beans, seasonings, canned meat, canned chili, etc. Date them and make sure to work through the oldest first. Having the normal foods you eat in bulk will likely end up being what gets you through most things (like the current hurricane season, job loss, winter blizzard, etc). Spending on these things can be used to fill out whatever is left of your budget when it gets partially used up on other things. I'd also maybe consider having some flats of bottled water at home as well. I usually keep 4-7 Costco sized ones on hand for my SO and I.
Start looking at longer term bulk water storage. I like 5 gallon stackable water cubes as they're easier to move and use and you buy them as you have a little extra cash here and there, but if you want to bump the budget up a bit for a month and your wife won't look at you like you're crazy, a 55 gallon barrel is a better price per gallon than the individual cubes. Sometimes there's just no replacing having your own clean water source ready to go. Barring all of that, if your family will use them just grab a bunch of flats of bottled water and rotate them. Stacked high they don't take up a ton of floor space.
At this point you're pretty well set initially for both water and food. Keep the pantry stocked and rotating. Add on for long term stored water as you see fit and maybe invest in something like a Big Berkey if you really want to drop some money into it. At that point I'd probably begin considering longer term food storage. More rice, add in some dry beans (roughly 5 year shelf life in Mylar/Buckets), and if you're feeling really into it you can get unground wheat and that will last 30 years or better in Mylar/Buckets. You'll just need to have a hand crank grinder or two to use it.
I get wanting ready to eat foods, and that's pretty easy to do and a great place to start, but as one last recommendation... grab yourself a Propane Burner and a high pressure hose for it so that you can use regular propane tanks. You may be able to eat cold soup out of the can, but it's a lot more comforting when it's warm, and you can pretty easily have the ability to add more of your foods into your diet (like spaghetti or mac and cheese) when you can still have a burner to work with.
Sawyer mini for $15.46
This kind of folding saw is great for camp-scale stuff. And a nice 4" fixed blade knife that you can baton with is all you need to split it. I've heard this is a good starter knife for bushcrafting but I haven't got to use mine yet.
I have a Ulock and looped flex-cable. Chains are heavy, and easier to break.
For ulocks, you want to get the smallest one possible that will still let you lock to a pole. That extra space is what lets thiefs get a jack in there to pop it.
My ususal three links I give out to people on theft prevention:
Chicago Bike Blog article
Chicago Ambasador's PDF
Also, remember to keep you bike locked someplace safe overnight like in your apartment, or in your buildings storage unit, especially until you have a good feel about how safe your area is at night for your bike.
Just lock it properly. Sturdy u-lock and a cable. The goal is to make it not worth a thief's time. So a more expensive bike requires more sophisticated deterrents.
Priorities when locking:
An example of the lock/cable setup can be found here: amazon
Personally, I use a slim u-lock like this because it's lighter, but it has the draw back of being more difficult to find the right fit for some racks.
If you would like to know more on the topic this video is a great resource.
It's really hard to go wrong with Howard Leight electronic earmuffs. They're probably the most popular type around, and I really don't think casual shooters need anything fancier.
And personally, I double up. I use the above earmuffs in addition to foam earplugs.
Probably not what you're looking for but I can't support this product enough:
Just a heads up for any other city riders - this bike horn has saved my ass several times when traffic suddenly starts to come into the bike lane. It's very loud, so don't use it on pedestrians, but it'll definitely get the attention of motorists.
It's super nice. It's a gigantic Lansky. The one thing that bugs me, is he's holding a Cutco, which have a lifetime warranty in regards to literally everything including the edge, yet he said he just goes out and buys another one....... Yeah, $20 shipping is way cheaper than buying another cutco......
Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)
Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)
Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)
Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)
Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)
Here is one above your price range
And one below your price range
for competitive shooting I and many others use Howard Leight Impact Sport earmuffs. I'm not sure how BIFL they are, But they've survived everything I've put them through over the last year and many others swear by them. They have microphones and speakers so are great for when you need to block out all sounds except for voices (great for Range commands).
These earmuffs along with these improved ear pads are a good upgrade if you ever want to replace that ear pro.
You can search Amazon or wherever you shop for "foam roller" and it'll pull up something like: https://www.amazon.com/TriggerPoint-Roller-Instructional-Original-13-inch/dp/B0040EGNIU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475067270&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=foam+roller.
So you want to roll your butt? Sit on and shift your weight to move the roll.
Here's another article with good visuals: http://greatist.com/fitness/how-foam-roll-pro.
I have this one. The short one is fine. I'm 6'1".
Electronic muffs. Not only will they protect your hearing, they can also amplify other sounds.
That is a good choice but is going to get very expensive quickly. You are going to need a good suppressor, subsonic ammo, and a tax stamp. A much more economical option would be to keep these on the night stand next to your firearm.
edit: also as far as sigs go I'm partial to the p226 legion SAO.
Looks like it's the second lowest price it's been on Amazon based on graph. Wish I had gotten last time
I realize this isn't exactly what you're looking for, but this is probably your best bet at this price point.
No, you're best bet is a Bushnell TRS-25 or one of the cheaper Primary Arms red dots.
Buy Once, Cry Once.
You can get a set of ears that has a line so they will act like headphones for your beeps.
Example: Howard Leight by Honeywell Impact Sport Sound Amplification Electronic Shooting Earmuff, Classic Green (R-01526) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FMSgDbZZWJBTR
Nah, they don't block enough ambient noise to protect your hearing. Pick yourself up a pair of these, they've got an auxillary in if you wanna pipe in your 'tunes. Keep in mind that the pads tend to leak noise in if you turn your head too far, so I like to double up with a pair of in-ear plugs, then put these on top of my ears and turn up the volume on the speakers.
Howard Leight Impact Sport
As an additional note, you'd probably get laughed at and reprimanded by the Range Officer for walking onto the range with a pair of Beats.
>Do I need to get ear protection for a .22? If so, any suggestions?
Yes! .22 still produces noise loud enough to damage hearing, especially long term use. [These] ( http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-R-01526-Electronic-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O) are a great value for the money.
>What eye protection is the best? (What do y'all use/what's your favorite pair of goggles)?
Nothing fancy, as long as it's rated for shooting.
>How long should I wait before getting a scope?
Until you have a need for one. If you get into longer range shooting and you can't see the targets naturally.
>Should I store it vertically? (Corner of a closet)?This is my first gun, so I don't have a safe, would under my bed work? (I did get a case for it)
Vertically is fine, though you should find a way to lock it up. If you can't afford a safe right now look for a cabinet you can lock and bolt to the wall. It won't stop a determined thief, but it'll deter curious house guests, children, and smash and grabs.
>Can I plink in my backyard? (Harris county, Texas)(I'm pretty sure this one is a no, thought I'd ask anyway)
I don't know your local laws, but unless you have several acres and a solid backstop it's not safe regardless of whether it's forbidden or not.
>I'm a first generation gun owner in my family, I'd like to be responsible with firearms, if I missed anything important, please say, I'd love to hear suggestions on how I can be responsible with guns.
Look in to Appleseed shoots. They're an excellent way to improve your marksmanship.
>I don't know if it matters but I got 1 box of CCI .22lr and the Ruger BX-25 with it.
Your 10/22 will love CCIs. Other brands work, too, but CCI is usually consistent.
To get into the electronic muffs game, look no further than these:
Howard Leight by Honeywell Impact Sport Sound Amplification Electronic Earmuff, Classic Green (R-01526) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WFQvyb87ZW6BE
I was kind of shocked the first time I put on electronic hearing protection. I'm surprised we don't see more non-disabled people using hearing aids. It's basically like having a superpower. You can eavesdrop on a quiet conversation 30 meters away.
No information included about your desired price range so I'll just throw out a few suggestions. G-Shock is a solid choice - my favorite is the GW6900 as it is 5 buttons (dedicated light button), solar powered, and sets itself every night to the atomic clock. A slimmer option is the GWM-5610 with the same features except for the dedicated light button. These also have non-atomic non-solar versions for about half the price DW6900 and DW5600 which both come in around $45. These are classic models and won't draw unwanted attention.
If you're looking for something analog, while I hate to recommend another Casio, the MDV-106 dive watch is really hard to beat for 40-50 bucks. Water resistant to 200 meters, real functioning diver's timing bezel, applied indices, rubber strap... it's highly regarded at this price point. Good luck!
The Evolution mini U from Krypto just aren't that strong. I've seen people leverage them off, once with a hockey stick and once with a piece of rebar. They're really meant as a delaying action for messengers that aren't leaving their bike unsupervised for 8+ hours.
The one I specified is a big, burly bastard of a lock. Som'bitch weighs like 5 pounds. 18mm diameter hasp, forget leveraging it off, pain in the ass to cut through with a torch or grinder and too big to get bolt cutters on. Hasp is too small to get a scissor jack into. Simply too thick to leverage. Double-roll tumbler lock with negative pinning so you can't bump it. Boron Steel that's doped with cutting-wheel fouling polymers. Independent locking bars on the hasps so you need to make two cuts to get it through.
It can be cut, but you're going to need a acetylene rig or a lot of time with a serious battery powered angle grinder to get through it. If anything, it's just a big, TPB style "Fuck Off" to people looking opportunistically. Nothing is going to save you from a complex attack if you're one of those idiots that locks up your $4,500 carbon frame outside overnight.
If you're locking someplace as visible as the MF Station for extended periods of time with a bike that has a value over $1,500, I recommend both the Chain and ULock versions of this line at the same time, as that necessitates two sets of tools for each job. Run that U through the rear triangle and wheel, the chain through the front wheel and main portion of the frame.
There is a lot wrong with this list, so I'm just going to work down it one by one with my thoughts on the matter.
USB flameless lighter? Why? That is going to be unreliable, at best. Throw a few BIC lighters and some stormproof matches in there and be done with it. IF you want to be fancy, get something built to be rugged, that will stand up to use in the field:
Speaking of, I didn't see any sort of firestarting material. Warmth is going to be important, and you need as few steps as possible between you and fire. Get some quality firestarters. I am trying to keep all my links relevant from amazon.ca, so some of the brands I'm most familiar with aren't there. But these work well (though there are options from Wetfire and other brands that take up less space):
What is with the mall-ninja "tactical" hatchet? That is a lot of weight and not a lot of utility. You'd be better served with a reliable and lightweight folding saw, and a good full-tang fixed-blade knife. Something like a 7 inch Corona saw:
If you insist on carrying a hatchet (and their function in a bugout situation is debatable, especially for the weight) get something quality like an Estwing:
Nothing wrong with duct tape, but you'd do well to wrap just maybe 3-4 meters of it around a small core (like from doggy waste bags, or even just around itself).
The self-crank radio/flashlight/phone charger is shit. You also don't need four lights, especially if all of them are crap. Buy one good flashlight, and maybe one good headlamp.
A flashlight like a Nitecore P12 or something that runs on an 18650 and offers long runtime would be ideal. If you buy a diffuser cap for it, you can replace the lantern. Pick up some spare, high quality 18650 cells, as well. The P12 has SOS and beacon modes, which will run for days at a time, in addition to a nice throw and excellent brightness on Medium and High.
As for headlamps, those don't need to be super bright. You want something with enough brightness and floodiness to work around camp. But ideally you also want a red-light or low-light mode for night time, when you don't need to destroy your night vision just because you need to take a piss or something.
The powerbank thing in the crank radio is crap, only 1000mah. Not enough to charge most modern smart phones even 25%. Figure that of that 1000mah, ~25% will be lost just due to inefficiency in the charging process. Get a 10,000mah or bigger high quality battery, with 2.1A ports, and be done with it:
Combine the money you'd spend on the shitty folding knife and the shitty Gerber multitool, and buy a proper multi-tool. You don't need two folding knives.
The Leatherman Wingman is a good value, though I prefer a nicer quality one like the Charge TTi, but at four times the price it may not be worth it just for an S30V blade.
Ditch the camp toilet paper, that stuff is like wiping your ass with cardboard. Get some biodegradable camp wipes from an outdoor store. You can now use these to clean your ass, and they also are useful for wiping your hands, or taking whore baths.
Same with the camp soap. Are you bugging out or camping for a week? Nothing you are going to do in a bugout situation is going to necessitate body soap. Toothbrush, floss, deodorant.
Ditch the giant first aid kit full of crap you don't need. Those things are heavy and 80 of the 85 pieces are just different sized bitch stickers. Build your own first aid kit tailored around the likely injuries you would face: sprains, cuts, burns. Maybe throw some Quik Clot Z-pack gauze or a tourniquet (CAT or similar) in there for larger trauma, if that is a concern to you. Limit the bitch stickers to 5-10. All gauze, tape, trauma pads, alcohol wipes, tincture of iodine, moleskin for blisters, tweezers, surgical shears, gloves, maybe burn cream. Small containers of medications you might need: aspirin, antihistamines like Diphenhydramine, anti-diarrheals, etc.
That survival paracord bracelet thing is garbage. You already have 100ft of paracord in your list (which you could probably cut down to 50ft). You don't need some shitty firestarter, whistle, and compass thing. Buy a real lensatic sighting compass. Not going to do you much good without a map and the ability to understand it, anyway.
You have both a cookset AND a mug/pot. This is extra redundant and not needed in a bugout situation. Stick to food you don't have to prepare. Caloric density is your friend. Jerky, EPIC bars, Clif bars, etc.
If you need to boil water, use a single-wall metal canteen (NOT a thermos). Remove the plastic lid, fill with water, set in your fire. Widemouth canteens like those by Klean Kanteen are multi-purpose (multipurpose is your friend). You can sterilize water, you can cook and eat food out of it (because of the large opening), and you can fill with hot water, wrap in a sock, and warm your sleep system.
You don't need a can opener if you have a good multitool.
Lifestraws suck ass. They only work as a straw, and I am going to guess you don't want to get your water by drinking out of puddles exclusively. Get a Sawyer Squeeze mini filter. This can be used in-line with a hydration bladder, can be used like a Lifestraw, or can be used to filter an fill your water storage containers/bladder:
One seriously lacking area for you is your sleep system. A tarp and a space blanket are not going to keep you functionally warm. You might survive a night, but you won't be useful the next day.
At the BARE minimum, you should get a good, reflective, breathable bivvy sack, like this one from SOL, AND a sleeping pad. A bivvy will reflect heat back onto you, helping with heat lost through convection, but no sleeping bag will help with heat lost through conduction (you touching the cold ground). That is why a sleeping pad is mandatory. I have used the Escape bivvy and the Klymit pad linked here together, and both kept me comfortably warm to about 50 degrees F. Below that, I've had to augment with base layers or jackets, and that still sucked. If you are hoping to sleep in below freezing temperatures, you'll need a properly sorted ultralight sleeping bag.
Other recommendations of mine would be to take survival, medical and foraging guides and put them on a smartphone, along with a GPS mapping software and pre-downloaded offline topographical maps at 1:24k resolution of your main bugout areas and 1:100k resolution elsewhere. Something like Gaia GPS for iOS or Backcountry Navigator Pro for Android:
The Sawyer Mini is an great all around filter that can be purchased for $20. tablets aren't a bad idea either. Do not waste your money on a lifestraw though. the sawyers are good for like 10-100x the lifespan(in gallons of course)
Even better, post it to /r/knifeclub.
It looks like it might have come from one or both of them originally though. That's a Kershaw Cryo II, one of the most popular budget blades out there
Edit: Actually after looking closer, the longer clip suggests it's the original Cryo, not the Cryo II. They're very similar though.
Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.
You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.
Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.
I have this one which I'm very happy with. Doesn't work in ALL doorways though - you need to have one side of the doorway unobstructed, and there has to be a lip on the top of the door frame for it to work properly.
I highly recommend getting an actual pullup bar, its worth the 30 dollar investment
Hah I knew it. Texas power bars kill my hands for any sort of volume. I bought my own bar and leave it in the gym just to deadlift with.
get this enjoy pulling for lots of volume without having to stop from your hands getting shredded. I seriously credit doing this as the major thing that got my deadlift to start moving again. the bar I'm always pulling with is the 86-PBCK, which is the same thing just with a center knurl to discourage the olyfags at my gym from using it.
I consider a bell pretty much 'standard equipment' on my bikes now due to this. For whatever reason the bell seems to be get better results overall verses yelling out.
Perhaps part of it is just instinctual, the bell sound is very specific to bikes so the individual really doesn't have to think about what was just said.
Just don't be the guy using an Air Zound on the multi-use trail...
Might be easier to buy something.
Im going to agree with everyone else. Get a U-lock. I When I first got my Trek 7.3 in 2008 I the bike cost me $600, I got a lock that cost me $95 because I was using it as a commuter and I was in New York. I am of the mind that the cost of your locks should be able 10% of the cost of you bike. This works out well because the locks will last just about forever. The look that I bought 6 years ago is still in use, it was a heavy duty chain lock and I leave it locked in the gargae at my job so I dont have to carry it with me everyday.
I recently bought a new bike and I got the New York fahgettaboudit it lock, it a small ulock that isnt heavy but provides good locking.
I dont know where you live, but your bike looks new enough, especially being chainless, to catch some eyes and not just people who will give you complaints.
dono about the engraving, the spyderco tenacious is a great EDC for this price point though. i have the same one with the black blade, carry it every day. really nice little folder
Have it, love it. Especially cuz it's not just plain black
Kershaw 1555TI Cryo SpeedSafe Folding Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_W-Pbvb0JGBMMP
Blackout your tank for 3 days. This will kill off the hair algae (caution: it may also start to effect your plants as well though). Use a fork to 'spaghetti twirl' the hair algae & get it out of the tank. What you're holding is a CO2 regulator. They aren't cheap, and only certain types don't need a CGA320 to paintball adapters. This looks similar to what you have in your picture. I would probably suggest this to eliminate most of your problems. It looks like he has dwarf baby tears & maybe dwarf hair grass? I found it difficult to save my dwarf baby tears after an hair algae bloom, but was able to save the grass.
Electronics need room for the electronics. Mic, wires, speaker - it all takes room. The more room taken by electronics, the less room there is for sound dampening stuff.
Get these they are the general standard for mid cost but good protection.
For outdoor ranges I use these Howard Leights. Indoor ranges I double up with some cheap foam plugs.
Here's what I like:
Basically these, but better protection and audio quality: https://www.amazon.ca/Howard-Leight-R-01526-Electronic-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O
Howard Leight Impact Sport Earmuff.
I use these. I always feel disappointed when I leave the range and shut them off and I can't hear as well as I can with the amplifiers on.
Here's a few things I've bought off Amazon that I've been really happy with:
Minus33 Merino Wool Day Hiker Sock
Magnesium Fire Starter
Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw
Sawyer Products Mini Water Filtration System
Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade
Nalgene Translucent Wide Mouth Bottle With Blue Lid
Outdoor Products 3-Pack Ultimate Dry Sack
Rayovac Sportsman 22 Lumen 1AAA Headlight
Adventure Medical Kits Adventure First Aid 2.0
Suunto M-3 D/L Compass
Dont use those.
Hearing ain't nothing to fuck around with. Don't do cheap or stupid when it comes to protecting your ears.
I use that setup, and i could shoot my AR all day in comfort with those together. Also, the plugs come in individually wrapped pairs, so you can always keep a few extra for friends/ strangers in your range bag.
[This ear pro is really good.] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001T7QJ9O?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00) I got a pair and it's great. Even is he isn't the biggest fan of them, he can have them as backup for himself or when a friend tags along. And it's right at $40
On my backup gun I run this Pinty reflex sight. It's cheap and gets the job done. The adjustable brightness is a nice touch if you're playing in a dark/light environment.
On my main gun I run the Bushnell TRS-25. Definitely the best bang for your buck. Great construction and a super clear and sharp reticle.
As a bike commuter of almost five years, I'll let you in on a little secret: sometimes my fellow bikers are worse that the drivers.
Case in point, I bought this cool airhorn ([Delta Cycle Airzound Bike Horn](https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC "Amazon.com : Delta Cycle Delta Airzound Bike Horn")) to attach to my bike. I remember being a little eager to use it, like a kid wanting to try out a toy. It took me a few weeks before I actually had an opportunity. Sadly, and ironically, I had to blow the horn on a cyclist who darted across a crosswalk when he had a red and I had a green. I actually had to dodge out of his way. What a jerk. I remember laughing/crying about how I got this air horn to defend myself from motor vehicles, yet the first time I used it was for a cyclist :-(
I can't stress enough how useful the Airzound has been for these types of sotuations. People move when you sound like a boat.
So buying a knife is completely subjective, if that Kabar suits your fancy then by all means purchase it. But here are some things you might want to consider for camping or general outdoor use:
For what you're talking about doing any stainless Mora would suffice (I'm partial to this.) But if you want something substantial for under $70 I think you might check out any of Kabar's Becker series.
Edit: For a sharpening system I really like this.
Another vote for the GRID
torture devicefoam roller.
I know this answer gets teased for being ubiquitous...but a great first knife in this arena is a Morakniv Companion. It's very hard to beat in terms of quality-to-price ratio.
Don't worry about a sawback knife....especially since you said you already have a good handsaw. I haven't seen one that saws worth a damn anyway.
I have this knife and it is well made and reliable and great starter knife.
Is this what you're showing off, because for $22 I might join the club too.
Iron Gym is basically ubiquitous. Can't go wrong there.
Someone else mentioned this, but I second it. It's cheap, easy, and effective.
I used thick black work socks and put them on each end of the bar, have used on multiple door frame and no problem yet.
Also, if you're still worried about damage, buy this one: https://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1549402096&sr=1-3&keywords=iron+gym
This is the one I use and it will create much less of a torque on your frame/trim
If you don't want to go to a gym, you really only need three items:
http://www.amazon.com/Bowflex-SelectTech-1090-Adjustable-Dumbbell/dp/B000OC5RXE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422565194&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=bowflex+selecttech (buy two of these)
Add on running for cardio and you're set. Looks expensive, but in the long run they're cheaper than a gym membership.
Why can't you install a door-frame mounted one? Is it because the landlord won't let you screw it into the wall?
Because they DO make pullup bars that are held in by friction alone.
This works pretty well, so long as you tighten it up well enough (otherwise you end up like this).
If you'd rather not risk ending up in a "Funniest FAILS of 2015" video on youtube, they also make this style of pullup bar, that is held into place on the doorframe simply by leverage between the bar and that squared-off section.
Buy an in-doorway pull up bar, such as this one. Then, follow the Armstrong pull up program, used by Marines everywhere for their PFT and found here. If you're consistent with it, you'll hit 20 within a 3 months. Good luck, and stick with it.
edit: Also note that for your PFT, both inboard (chin up) and outboard (pull up) grips are allowed. You can also switch grips in the middle of your PFT as well.
Sounds like you're Powerlifting, and not Olympic lifting.
I prefer center knurling for squats, while others don't mind if it's missing. If you're Oly lifting you may not want it.
I would recommend a 1000LBS bar over a 500LBS bar. Not only for the weight rating (keep in mind static weight is not the same as dropped weight), but also for the fact its a higher quality steel.
Many lower end bars are 32mm diameter and much less comfortable. Also quality of bushings etc is well, lower.
EDIT: It seems as if you may be looking for "Bang for the buck", and nothing too fancy. If thats the case, I would highly recommend taking a look at the CAP OB-86B. Its on sale for $109 shipped. You will be very hard pressed to find something better for close to that price: https://www.amazon.com/Barbell-Olympic-2-Inch-1200-Pound-Capacity/dp/B001K4OPY2?th=1
I think he means ear protection like this: Howard Leight Shooting Earmuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T7QJ9O
I've used these at the range. They have a 3.5mm jack for plugging in an audio device.
There are several brands and models of hearing protection headphones. The most popular low-mid end model is the HL Impact. I don't know what model, specifically, was talked about in the thread you're mentioning though, the HL Impacts are just my personal recommendation if you're in the market and don't care about integrated comms.
I bought this one a couple of years ago and recommend it enthusiastically. We have a couple at our gym, too, and they've held up to some big guys, big squats, and rack pulls. It says free shipping even though it's not prime eligible...that sounds right, because I remember not paying shipping.
How about $34.99?
I'd suggest you save up a little bit more and get something more worthwhile. A Spyderco Tenacious can be had for $34, for example.
If you are dead set on a $20 knife, atomedge's mention of a Byrd Robin or even a Byrd Cara Cara 2 would be a good place to start.
Step two: Put everything together
Step three: Profit!
EDIT: A few extra things that I remembered and also mentioned below. The regulator comes with a bubble counter, but for NOT come with tubing! You will need to buy the tubing, diffuser, and the co2 indicator. Amazon sells everything you need and is free shipping with their Super Saver option.
Has he hinted at any particular style? I think the Weekender would be an excellent choice. Off the top of my head, here are some additional classic and well respected budget watches.
Timex Expedition Scout
Casio F91W or F108WH
If you want a chrono, a Seiko SSB031, mecha-quartz is a good value for $125. You get a smooth sweeping chrono hand, which is nice to have on a quartz watch. If that doesn't fit your style, you can look up different SSB models to find one you like.
If you want a field watch, Citizen Men's BM8180-03E is a nice quartz watch for $90. You can get a Timex Expedition for cheaper, but I think the Citizen is a better value for the price point. The Timex Waterbury is a nice watch for $100-$150, and I really like the look of the watch (might be overpriced for what you get but I just really like the look).
And also check out some G-Shocks. They don't get much love here, but I honestly think if you just care for a watch you can use, and don't care about looks, a DW-5600E is the best watch you can get in your price range.
mora companion is an inexpensive and extremely reliable bush knife. You can get it in high carbon steel or stainless depending on your preference. Its really hard to beat for the price. I have take used and abused mine and its still holding up very well.
The wilderness is probably where you need self-defense tools the least of anywhere in your life, but if that aspect is important to you, I won’t argue it any further.
That said, it’s a bad knife. Just cheap tacticool crap, not meant for any serious use. It’s liable to fall apart mid-use (one of the reviews even mentioned the locking mechanism failed resulting in injury). Can’t imagine much worse than trying to defend yourself and cutting your hand on your own faulty knife.
Something like a Morakniv is cheap but sturdy and well-made. Would work well for both camping uses and self defense (keep it on your belt and you don’t even have to flip the blade open to use it). Saves an ounce or so and is a massive upgrade to practical capability.
Alternately, a SAK Classic and a small thing of pepper spray is similarly cheap, saves 2-3 ounces, and is probably more effective for self-defense than a cheap flippy knife.
Here is what would use for $100 USD. All prices are via Amazon/Wal-mart
Pack: OutLander Lightweight Day Pack - Cheap, Lightweight and would get the job done for a GHB ($18)
Cutting: Morakniv Companion - Cheap and Mora makes some of the best knives ($12)
Combustion: Storm Matches ($6), All-weather matches($0.75), 2 Bic Lighters($2), and some Wetfire($6)
Cover: 3 Emergency Blankets($2)
Container: Back pack listed above, 6 bottles of water ($3), Single layer stainless steel bottle($7)
Cordage: 100 Feet of 550 ($6), Duct tape ($3)
Candlelight: 2 LED Lights ($4-12)
Consumables: 6 Cliff bars ($6), 3 %-Hour Energy ($6), Bag of trail Mix ($6)
Clothing: 2 Extra Pair of socks ($2), 2 pair Gloves ($7), 2 Hats ($10)
Communication: 3 Road Flares ($6) Signaling Mirror ($3)
Cash: $40-100 is recommended but this is optional.
Everything I have there (Cash excluded) should cost around $120. You can save money by making your own Wetfire with cotton balls and petroleum jelly. And the food can probably be replaced with cheaper items. I just put stuff I am comfortable with. Same is true with the flashlights, you could grab 4 of the $1
Wal-mart lights they are great for short term use and would cut out another $8.
Buy stuff in bulk when it is available too this will cut down cost.
Something every car should already have, but it worth the extra $10-20 is a small first aid kit or 2.
Can't beat a $14 Mora Companion, comes in stainless or high carbon. Comes shaving sharp. http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40/
Mora Companion. The value on these knives is pretty nuts, I keep thinking that prices will eventually go up because you get so much blade for the money. Great carver and slicer due to the scandi edge, and the carbon steel blade it tough and can take light batoning without issue.
Watch a few reviews online, pretty much all raving, and for good reason.
For the money, it's hard to wrong with a Mora. Amazing value in a darn tough and well-made knife.
Enjoy the FX! I'm rocking the 7.5 and I am completely in love with cycling. Here's a few words of advice:
Ditch that cable lock. I can walk up to a bike with a cable with a five dollar tool and have it for myself in 10-20 seconds. Get a U-Lock and rope. The correct answer for how many locks or what kind of locks to use is how many you are willing to carry. This will depend on your location as well. U-Locks + ropes typically require an individual to have a hacksaw, grinder, etc. I live in a smaller college town and mostly just have to worry about drunk assholes so that works perfect. In other areas more heavy duty and smaller U-Locks are more necessary. This will probably work fine and is cheap unless you're in Detroit or something.
Fenders. I feel like that should be your next investment unless you bike a lot at night. I bike a ton at night and decided to invest in great lights after almost being hit by both cars and bikes several times. The first time you have somewhere to be and go through a puddle, the fenders pay for themselves. These are what I rock and I go through puddles / lakes which I probably shouldn't. I stay nice and dry while my friends breeze through them and get completely soaked.
Racks and bungies are great for the FX series. Like others mentioned, this is just a fun bike. I use it for recreation, commuting, bar hopping, exercise, you name it! A rack and a bungie net makes it awesome and Ortlieb panniers are an even better addition.
Besides fenders however... the seat and pedals (maybe) are the next things I'd recommend to look at. The pedals look metal in that picture, but if there's plastic, toss them. Well, I guess you can use them. It depends on the rider, but there's a pretty good track record of the FX series stock pedals only lasting roughly 500 miles before they completely break. Obviously this will vary by user. These are my favorite commuter pedals because I can go clipless later or I can commute at the same time without switching out. These are cheaper and better for commuting just because of the pricing.
As for the seat, your ass will never get more comfy than sitting on a brooks.
Enjoy the FX, it's a wonderful machine and I cherish mine. I was biking to work for the first time in a month (been on vacation) and I forgot I had to go to work. I accidentally biked a few extra miles down the bike path before I remembered I was commuting and not going for an enjoyable bike ride. Careful, it becomes an addiction.
And here's a shameless plug for my pride and joy. It still had the old pedals, saddle, fenders and needs an updated snapshot.
If you have a few bucks lying around, the easiest way to answer this question is to have you buy a decent knife and see for yourself how much better it is. For a nice folder in your size range, the Ontario Rat1 would be a nice start...it's only $25 (which is a very low price for a quality knife), its 3.5" blade is big enough to do most things you'll need it to do while also being legal to carry almost everywhere (in the US), it's supposed to have a buttery smooth pivot action, and it has a decent blade steel (AUS-8) as opposed to the who-knows-what in a typical gas station knife. And yes, the steel alloy does make a lot of difference, a good blade will hold a sharp edge for longer, be tough enough to withstand some abuse, be flexible enough that it doesn't shatter easily, and unlike crap "stainless" steel it will actually remain rust-free under reasonable conditions. The heat treatment of the blade also contributes to these traits, and I can guarantee that Ontario does a better heat-treat than whoever made your $7 gas station knife...which probably didn't receive any treatment. If the Rat1 isn't your style, Kershaw makes a bunch of budget-friendly (~$30) knives that are also pretty highly regarded, something like the Cryo which has spring-assisted opening or the very sexy Skyline which isn't assisted opening. And if those aren't to your liking, then Spyderco makes a couple budget folders, one of them being the Resilience which has a bigger 4.25" blade and nice G10 handles, you may like that one for the bigger size. Might wanna check the legality in your area though...
So yeah, apart from working better, a nice knife also has a much smaller chance of failing and cutting off your finger, which is the main reason that I cringe a little bit when people use bad knives...I just don't want to see someone who doesn't know any better get hurt by a knife they thought would work fine. Unfortunately, I do see plenty of knives like that around r/EDC, but maybe I just hang out in /r/knives too much.
Old Version) New VersionOther Version that looks exactly identical but has different url) Old Version| $43.70 Prime New Version| $59.99 New Version| $56.99
You're welcome. Oh and don't worry. No affiliate link on the amazon link.
EDIT So looks like I was wrong. I don't know why there is two different pages for what looks to be the same thing (Thanks /u/JudgeWhoAllowsStuff and /u/tosss for pointing this out)
The TRS-25 hits the price/quality mark perfectly for a gun you're just looking to have fun with. The rebate deal they had a month ago is over, but you can still get one for $70 on Amazon.
Delta Airzound 115db horn
I've had these for a while and like them a lot. If you don't want a full set, just go to your local sports store and buy one or two.
Biking in the rain isn't very fun. It's not too bad, but your tires can slip on some surfaces (usually metal). I had to cross some railroad tracks on my route and the tires could easily slip on the metal surfaces.
Also, in the winter, you'll want to wear gloves, otherwise your hands will get pretty cold from the cold air.
Develop a system to make sure you packed your clothes. I've left a few times for work without packing a shirt.
You may want to invest in a bike horn. I have one like this. It helps to alert cars to your presence, but will probably scare pedestrians, so be careful.
Also, you'll probably want to wear sunglasses, otherwise debris can get into your eyes.
I'd invest in a decent quality road bike. Mine was a $1000 Trek, but that's maybe a slight step above entry level. A good quality bike will cost you over $500. Road bikes are so nice. I was able to consistently go around 20 MPH. with bursts up to 25-30. I actually used to take a lane in rush hour traffic when I lived in my downtown area. I could keep up with the stop and go traffic and it was a great workout.
Wear a helmet!
Get lights, especially for winter when it gets dark earlier.
Visibility is key when riding near traffic, get reflective tape for your bike and reflective ankle bands so cars can see you.
Bike defensively. Worse accident I got in was when I was going by an alley and a car came out of the alley and didn't see me. Luckily I saw them so was able to avoid too much damage.
Either learn to do the maintenance yourself or take your bike into a shop to get maintenance every year or so.
Anyway, good luck! I enjoyed biking into work. I need to get back into it, but it takes good self discipline to wake up early enough to bike into work. I was lucky enough to have a locker room and showers at my workplace, and a bike locker. I really have no excuses other than the fact that driving is so much easier.
These are an effective jogger alert system, even for ones that are using headphones.
May I recommend Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_df4DAbQG7XT85
Works amazing and has a fool proof way for not fucking your angle up. There’s an add on stand item for like $5 that helps make the process even easier.
I have used it on my pocket knife and kitchen knives.
There are a number of ways to get it sharp again. Instead of buying stones, some people use sandpaper glued/taped to a hard surface (a block of wood or brick..etc) and sharpen the same way you would with a stone. Lansky also has really effective sharpening systems that are reasonably priced.
1: Kershaw cryo http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0074FI28Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425436284&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kershaw+cryo
2: leatherman wingman http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DI0XM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425436358&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=leatherman&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41bJU6N-LIL&amp;ref=plSrch
3: parker jotter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001603YXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425436417&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=parker+jotter&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31aYcffbTwL&amp;ref=plSrch
4: pocket notebook $2.99 for a pack of three at Walmart(can't find link)
5: timex weekender http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004VR9HP2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425436830&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=timex+weekender&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=511t%2Bvey%2BoL&amp;ref=plSrch
6: flashlight http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006E0QAFY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1425436927&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=edc+flashlight&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41lLyzPBzNL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Why would you not just buy the Sawyer Mini for $18.97 on Amazon?
Sawyer Products SP128 Mini Water Filtration System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_qhWfub0018FS9
What do you think of the http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406720934&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sawyer+mini It has a 0.1 Micron Filter. I believe that still won't remove Viruses in water though. And do you know what are the chances of North American Streams, or Lakes etc containing viruses in the water?
$19.99 with shipping on Woot for 1,000 liters of filtering capacity or $19.06 with shipping on Amazon, which is strange because Woot is owned by Amazon.
Or you can get a Sawyer Mini for $19.97 with shipping for 100,000 gallons (378,541 liters) of filtering capacity, while filtering at 0.1 microns instead of 0.2 microns for the Lifestraw. It comes with a straw so you can use it the same way as the Lifestraw, plus has the greater flexibility of being able to be used with a hydration bladder or set up as a gravity filter systems, and also comes with a small water pouch.
I think this one falls under common sense and they at least had something for you to use. Crap if i went into my range bag I would see 5 pairs of Howard Leight Impact Sports. Along with a 10 pack of throw away plugs and my own three tier silicon plugs that i use when shooting rifles along with my howard leights.
This is what you want, OP.
Probably the most common and highly reviewed ear protection available today, at an affordable price point.
What? You have to explain more than "Dummy low profile headphones to use for ear protection".
Just get some Howard Leight Impact Sports, they are only $40. These are electronic so they deafen things like gunshots and Thunder B's and amplify talking and footsteps.
You're getting excellent "first gun" advice, but I'd like to offer a slightly different answer based on your specific question. In order, I'd say:
A .22 is a really good starter rifle because of light recoil and low ammo cost. But if you're concerned about politics and want to get a proper carbine squared away, an AR is actually also a really decent starter rifle. The recoil is very light, and with doubled-up ear protection the blast isn't bad; and the ammo is the cheapest you'll get in a non-.22 rifle. Get what you want, get some skin in the game before AWBs become a fight in your state, and you'll do fine. If you later decide it's more blast and money than you want to shoot regularly, 10/22s aren't going anywhere.
Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll check back in a little bit (studying for finals right now) if I think of anything else.
Ammo: I buy Federal white box FMJs for pistols and shit-tier Tula steel-cased for my AR-15. If you don't want to debase your rifle with the steel shit, American Frontier makes some cheap brass-cased ammo.
Gun safe: Here's a primer. I'm getting a cheap locking cabinet from Gander over the weekend - I just want something to keep my kids outta my guns, and the old 'hide it in a locked box on a high shelf' thing doesn't make me comfortable.
Extra mags: Yes. Buy from the pistol's manufacturer, or for AR-15s, I like PMags.
Reloader tool: Looking for like a magazine loader? They're good to have. I've never had a problem manually loading mags tho.
Range bag: yes. Bigger is better.
Holster: Safariland makes best-in-class holsters for all occasions.
Safety gear: I double up my hearing protection (muffs AND plugs). I use these for muffs, and whatever is cheap for plugs. I use my eye glasses as eye pro.
Also - you will want a soft bag for your pistol/rifle for transport to and from the range.
I've taken these to a race before. They're my shooting headphones, but have found them to work great at the track.
Automatically blocks noise above 82db, and allows you control how much ambient noise you can hear. Meaning, you can have a conversation with someone and still hear them just fine with the headphones on, but as soon as a noise greater than 82db occurs, they block it.
Also has an external audio jack to plug into.
I have also heard great things about the $18 stove on Amazon from BRS
TL;DR: with a BRS-3000T, 25-gram, canister-top stove and a light-weight pot for boiling water, alcohol doesn't save you much weight on short trips, and on longer, un-resupplied trips, LPG wins.
See also: https://www.reddit.com/r/Ultralight/comments/5akas5/nifty_but_possibly_dangerous_refill_transfer_fuel/
EDIT - never have to check for "fire bans" with LPG either - the stoves have a shut-off valve and are typically exempt.
Hey you should now totally get a door chin-up bar to complete your determination.
For the money, it's hard to beat Howard Leight. I have several sets of earpro, including Peltors, several loaner pairs of Caldwells, my gf has Walker's that she likes a lot, but the Howard Leights are cheap enough and quality enough that I both trust them and didn't mind buying a pair to forever live with my HD gun.
Power Rack, oly bar, weights, bench. All you need right there.
Basically the same power rack my gym has.
Quality bar and enough weight to keep you busy for a couple months.
You can probably find some of this on CL for dirt cheap though. Especially the bar and weights since they are a PIA to move.
I don't see what is wrong with this one. It is <$400.
get something not so expensive for your first knife. Here's why:
-Get used to it. Carrying it around, deploy and fold, cut fruit at work with it (see your co-worker's faces when you pull it out). Doing this will let you get use to having one (unfortunately, you will probably lose it).
-Use the shit out of it. cut paper, cardboard, pencils, test it out on thin twigs, branches etc.
-Sharpen it. I don't mean with some cheap easy way of doing it like with a sharpmaker; use a sharpening stone, learn the angles.
-Learn to respect it. No matter how careful you think you are, you will eventually cut yourself doing something you feel is the safe way. You will have a new appreciation for this knife.
I recommend either of these knives (learn the different ways knives can be deployed) http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578/ thumb hole deployment
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Onion-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9Y0 - speedsafe
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E - thumbstud
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8 - flip
Find how the knives also carry in your pocket (left pocket, right pocket, tip up or tip down).
These should be your first steps into getting and owning your first folding knife.
I have the Howard Leight Earmuffs and I couldn't be happier. I haven't hunted with them and have only used them at the range. Very popular and high rep.
I'd suggest you get a set of Howard Leight Impact Sport earmuffs and if you shoot indoors double up with plugs.
Keep an eye out for these to go on sale:
I paid $35 for mine, but I see them for $40-$45 pretty often.
Not mil spec, but the aux in models are now $45 at your door on Amazon
The general consensus seems to be that you can't beat Howard Leight Impact Sport earmuffs.
Bushnell TRS-25 Inexpensive, and works.
I run a Bushnell TRS-25 on my slab-side Competition and I'm happy enough with it. I mostly just plink steel with it and it's good enough for me.
Bushnell TRS-25. It's running a little high now but I've gotten them as low as $50.
A soft pool noodle could be a really gentle way to start! Can't say I've ever used them myself but I could see how it would work. This high-density foam roller is the kind I started on and is great for foam rolling beginners as you get used to the sensation and technique; this grid-type roller is what I use now, and it can be quite intense if I haven't rolled in a while. This is what I'd consider the most advanced roller and I honestly haven't even tried it myself but I imagine it would be very effective but kinda ouchy, even if you're used to rolling! I also recommend a lacrosse ball or any other small (3-4 inches in diameter) pure rubber ball for targeting particular spots-- a tennis ball would also work as a slightly softer option.
The trickiest thing with foam rollers is getting used to the sensation enough that you don't tense up and fight it, which is why it's good to start with softer options. YouTube videos can show you safe form for rolling, and always hydrate extra after you roll! :) I hope this is helpful, let me know if I can share anything else!
I have a sharpening system that lets me choose one of four angles. It's branded as Lansky.
The second link is a stand for the knife clamp. It works really well to get super sharp edge, even without stropping.
It takes away an excessive amount of steel. I've seen my in-laws grind away an decent butcher's knife in a couple of years that should have lasted a lifetime, and it doesn't do a very good job.
edit: The Lanksy jig system is another inexpensive alternative that requires little skill.
I like that watch. Here's an amazon link if anyone is interested.
How about the Citizen AT0200? It's 39mm.
-Timex Weekender Chronograph
-Timex Expedition Field Chronograph
-Timex Fairfield Chronograph
-Timex IQ Flyback
-Citizen BU2055-08X or BU2055-16E
-[Citizen Chandler Chronograph](https://www.jomashop.com/citizen-watch-ca0621-05l.html?utm_source=googleproduct&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=googleproductsearch&amp;pt_source=googleads&amp;pt_medium=cpc&amp;pt_campaign=(ROI)
-Citizen CA0649-14E or CA0649-06X
-Seiko SSB097 - Sort of like the Bulova Lunar Pilot
-Orient Neo70's Panda
I would suggest a black watch of some sort, as casios are my favorite, I can use those as an example.
Retro - my favorite
Not all 100% black, but they at least got a little bit of black in them. I think part of wearing a watch is being able to balance how busy it looks on your wrist with how busy the rest of your outfit is. If you're going for streetwear, wearing a flashy watch is a lot easier than for someone going for a business casual look (of course there are exceptions). I'd say look at these and see if any would mesh with your wardrobe. Even if not, get the calculator one or the analog minimal one just to experiment with watches. They're cheap and it's fun as hell.
Edit: Just realized your looking for an EDC Knife. To split kindling? My post revolves around your first knife to go out into the bush. An EDC knife should just a small folder for when you open those fancy amazon boxes. Don't need a fixed blade knife for EDC purposes, but if your gonna be out in the woods messing around I'd follow what I said.
IMO a Mora companion should be your first knife. They are 10 bucks. The one linked is a carbon steel version, if you are gonna be around water a lot get the stainless steel version. The stainless steel version will
rustdull quicker. Edit: Was a typo, it definitely wont rust quicker lol. Get it if you are around water because it WONT rust, but the edge will dull quicker, this is why knowing how to sharpen in the field is important. I mean you can get through a day with a dull knife, but it's never fun.
This won't be the best knife in the world, but it's the best beginners knife, it can do all the basic tasks and work well for $10, so if you smack a rock, chip it somehow or end up messing it up when sharpening you can buy another one. Practice sharpening! This is a big one, you don't want to get a $100 knife and mess up sharpening it - anything is fixable but you don't want to do that with an expensive knife and start taking off too much steel and what not.
I'd recommend a Mora companion, and whatever sharpening method you want. A decent, cheap stone is the Fallkniven DC3. There are better stones - but they require oils (or water) and you have to go through two or three types of stones and all these other things. Not to mention they are heavy and bulky. DC3 is small and you can take it with you.
If someone else wants to go more indepth on other sharpening methods and stones, please do so, I've had the same ones for a few decades and am not up-to-date on the tech.
Also strops, I had a local leatherworking shop make one for me, I've never found good ones online, or good leather to make your own. If you are familiar with good ones, feel free to link them.
-This was generous gift from my SO's mom. It may not be the best tent out there, but at free it can't be beat.
-Got this for its small size and light weight. Future winter camping trips are a possibility, in which case I plan on snagging a wool blanket of sleeping bag liner.
-Simple basic sleeping pad, I've been using these since scouts and have wanted for nothing more, especially because of its light weight.
-In the event of winter camping, is this enough to insulate from the ground? If not, what could be added to my sleep system to keep me insulated from the ground?
-Lightweight and simple, these were cheap and seemed straight forward.
-They stack with the majority of either piece's empty space facing each other, allowing for decently dry storage for matches etc. inside.
-Comes with a tight fitting mesh ditty bag
-Another straight forward and cheap piece,
-This is really an optional piece, I plan on bringing it along on trips with big groups or when cooking meat is in the cards.
-These are the camping gold standard in my book, been using them since scouts.
-Came in a decently affordable combo pack, plan on using them for food/toiletries storage and bear bags.
-Love this little knife, cheap but durable and was a shaver straight out of the box.
-Came with a super thick plastic sheath
9)Hatchet: Estwing Hatchet - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TNWD40?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
-Heard this was a classic, people say they've still got the one's their grandfather's used. It's heavy, but I'm happy with the tradeoff.
-Got it sharpened well enough to cleanly slice through paper at the moment
-Great sharpener, pretty much the go to field sharpener from what I've gathered.
-Only took a couple minutes to learn how to use, the only hard part is consistently following the bevel through each stroke, but it gets easier.
-Very great, medium size towels with their own tote
-Seems great, picked it up at REI physical store then read reviews and got spooked, we'll see though, a minority of the reviewers swear by it.
-Just in case it sucks, any suggestions for a collapsible water container of equal size/price?
-These came free with my water filter, and they have many good reviews. If they do well, I may buy some extras.
-More showing of my primitivist ass, and I thought I could take some weight off of my SO by carrying enough water for the two of us.
-Got these a long time ago when I knew less, they are pretty bulky and my first item I want to replace
-SO's mom gifted this this Christmas, so amazing and thoughtful, one of the best gifts I've ever gotten and I love the color
-Pack of flashlights (might not bring all four) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V639BNC?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01
Items not shown:
-Always a tin or bag of Drum Tobacco and papers
-Kindle, old generation one
-Burlap shoulder bag for gathering kindling etc
Items still wanted (suggestions greatly appreciated):
-Knife for SO
-Plastic flasks for booze
-Higher quality tarp
-Sleeping bag liner or wool blanket
-Any food suggestions!
-Rain cover for pack
-Smell proof food bags
I don't have much experience outside of scouts, so I'm very open to critique of my setup. I will warn that I am very much into primitivism, and camping for me is a gateway to a backcountry, esthetic lifestyle I one day I hope to live, so some of my gear choices may not always be the most efficient. Any advice from a primitivist or purist standpoint is doubly appreciated.
You should add a few basic tools, screw driver, wrench, and fixed blade knife if this is for a VEDC. I also always keep duct tape and a few zipties in my car. Zipties are super handy for quick fixes and repairs like engine hoses coming lose etc.
A sturdy inexpensive knife to add would be something like a morakniv http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40
Even cheaper in Carbon Steel
Edit: or carbon with a thicker blade
Now personally I would sy you dont need a firestarter. What I've always carried is a zippo lighter, with a butane insert from thunderbird.
The butane insert isnt really necessary, but I prefer butane over the liquid that zippos typically use because they don't evaporate.
Some people are very particular about their knives and what they use them for but I think that everyone should own a Mora. It is a very sharp knife that can be used for food prep all the way to just carving or whittling. The plus side is that they are light weight and they are cheap! Do yourself a favor and pick one up (it doesn't necessarily have to be the one that I linked).
So you're going to buy something regardless, isn't spending an extra $50 once, worth the headache of replacing a bike, trying to deal with insurance etc...
I literally just bought this one for $40.
I'd suggest using a good U Lock like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469132985&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kryptonite+u+lock
Lock the frame/front wheel to the bike rack and loop the cable around your back tire. This should be enough deterrence to safely leave your bike outside.
That said, if the professional thieves want your bike, there's no lock you can get to stop them. I wouldn't lock up a $2000 road bike outside, but your bike should be fine I'd imagine.
A few bits of advice:
I've been riding an old mountain bike I got for $70 off Craigslist for a few years. It looks its age but it rides like a champ. Yes, it's silly that my locks cost nearly as much as my bike, but I don't care. I'm a little paranoid.
Just ask Santa then, little boy.
I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_1?s=exercise-and-fitness&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373488253&amp;sr=1-1
It's already lasted a few years, still just like new.
May want to look at something like the iron gym. As long as you have a doorframe to attach it to. I've purchased one myself and it is pretty solid, but it may ruin the paint job where the pads sit on door frame. Just an idea for you though
I have this one and I like it: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B001EJMS6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also have a few kettlebells and resistance bands for home exercises. Both are easy to store and use. Check out r/bodyweightfitness for workout ideas too
a decent CAP barbell is $160. If that is too expensive, I literally have no advice for you.
This "only" supports 800 lbs.
This will good enough until you decide on Texas vs Ohio power bar I don't think it has center knurling, but I'm sure you could find a similar one with it for the same money.
This only supports 300 lbs, but you can always rebuild the framing out of 4x4 wooden posts. I can tell you it doesn't collapse even when you have around 500 lbs on it.
Then you just need weights, Craigslist, or if you want new, walmart has them for a little less than 1$ a lb. Make sure your 45's are the right size, or you'll end up doing deficit deadlifts.
Yup. A pair like these does the job really well.
If you can time it right and catch the 795 on sale, you can save a decent bit of money. I hadn't seen them on sale, so I bought my fiancee a 795 and spent about $175 on it. I recently got the tech sights for both her rifle and mine. For an appleseed event, you'll want two ten round magazines. Since they are hard to find in a brick and mortar location and I was going to be paying shipping anyway, I ordered two 10 rounders in addition to the one the rifle came with.
Costs as follows:
Tech Sights $ 69
2x Mags $ 28
GI Sling $ 10
Swivels $ 12
That total does not include shipping charges, nor does it include any further equipment costs such as:
You can go less expensive on the ear an eye protection. The first few times I took my lady shooting, we had good ear plugs and less expensive eye protection (at an outdoor range) and I saved up for a while to get the better stuff.
I feel like it was worth it to get the extra stuff and rifle so that we can attend the appleseed event together. Much of the value in it, I think, comes from all the range time you get. If One of us were to go without the other then try to teach the other, it would probably take significantly longer to teach the second person unless you later dedicated an entire weekend to shooting. I think it's better to knock it out in on weekend, rather than spread out over weeks or months. You two can develop together as shooters.
As I've been educating my fiancee and guiding her into being comfortable with guns, this is something I've given a good bit of thought to, and something I had and have been saving for for a few months. Buying shooting gear can be a large-ish initial outlay, but the headphones, eye protection, and firearms acquired are something that will serve us well for many years to come, so that is something to bear in mind as you weight the options, buy initial gear, and possibly later acquire replacement gear of higher quality.
Headphones aren't ear pro.
But the pretty-much-standard Howard Leight muffs that everyone wears to the range have a headphone jack for a reason.
I see no problem with headphones, so long as you can still hear RSO's and other shooters well enough. Personally, I've shot lots with just one earphone in under my muffs and had no issues. No more of a distraction than the guy next to you shooting at random times.
Peltors/Liberators are absolutely top notch if you can snag an issued pair, but they are prohibitively expensive if you're to buy your own. Unless you need to interface with a radio just get a pair of Howard Leights off amazon (you can still use with a hand mic though), they are about $50 and fit under an ACH just fine. https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Amplification-Electronic-R-01526/dp/B001T7QJ9O/
Otherwise just run some cheapo foam earplugs, buy a 40 pack or whatever and change them out as needed.
Welcome to one of the most expensive hobbies you'll ever get into. It's addictive. I recommend selling blood and semen. Mixed. Doesn't have to be your own. I'll answer your questions numerically.
E. If you go to the range, do not be afraid to ask a range safety officer for tips or to help you. MOST RSO's are knowledgeable. Most.
So after about a year into this great hobby I've accumulated pieces of gear into what it is today. Not exactly everything I want yet, and for sure I'm going to be replacing around 30% of things in a few months (hopefully!). Still pretty noobish in terms of skill but I'm working on it! Onto the kit list!
What's your budget?
You can ever go wrong with ammo. A package of some good defense ammo like Federal HST or Speer Gold Dots makes a good stocking stuffer.
Since he'll need to go to the range for practice (I sure hope so), get a good pair of ear protection like the Howard Leights.
A cheap range bag to carry ammo, gun, and ear/eye protection is a good gift too. Walmart has them for cheap.
Upgrades like night sights from Trijicon would be good on a carry gun. A good holsters and a proper gun belt are essentials as well.
+1 on the earplugs and earmuffs combined. I learned this the hard way when I tried shooting indoors wearing only Howard Leight earmuffs. I lasted about two minutes before going back outside and adding earplugs. Never made that mistake again.
Rifle vs. Handgun?
Rifle indoors, you should almost always double up. Plugs and muff.
Either way, I highly recommend electronic muffs. These seem to be the most popular, and I can highly recommend them: http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-R-01526-Electronic-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O/
Just make sure you throw a backup pair of AAA's in your range bag.
~40-50 minutes, and that's because my bands and band combos are set up, and I superset. When it's time to add resistance, it takes a few extra minutes of messing around to feel it out. It took me a bit longer to set things up the first few times, when I was figuring things out - how much resistance to start with, switching accessories, etc. Buying extra accessories (and bands) helped, because now I've got some band combos ready to go.
But, I'm doing this at home, so there's no commute etc. (I do wear some kind of pant or legging because otherwise, the bands are kind of abrasive, not great to do this in undies, unfortunately :/)
My warmups are longish, because that's when I do some physio exercises - 5-20 minutes, depending. Sometimes I regress if I feel like I need it; sometimes I ditch something because it's covered by another exercise. (e.g. don't have to do ankle stands for balance as much now, bc i'm doing kickbacks and standing hip abductions without holding on to anything for 3x15. That's another thing about band / bodyweight stuff, I think it really helps with balance, coordination, proprioception - especially the open chain movements.)
Let's say I'm good to go, though - I do 4 minutes of basically GPP - two rounds of this, 20 seconds per exercise, 10 seconds rest.
Stole most of that sequence from Adrian Bryant
Those movements cover the major muscle groups. I don't rush through it to get reps in or to get a major sweat on, it's just to get me and my blood moving. (Though if I do feel like adding a cardio component to the workout, I throw in another set of 2 rounds between supersets, which adds to the time, obviously.)
I bought a few extra handles, cabiners, and door anchors. Also had (have) to buy extra bands - I have these; long, flat unlooped bands; and pullup bands that I use for deadlifts and hip thrusts. (Snapped bands end up small looped bands, lol.)
The combos I like to have ready to go: 2 handles + certain bands for e.g. rows, overhead presses, crossovers, etc; door loop + bands + ankle cuff for kickbacks, donkey kicks, hip abductions, etc. For hip thrusts, I use this band looped around the feet of my bedframe, on the short end. (The band isn't long enough, so I daisy-chained a few nylon "door" anchors and looped them through the band and then around the feet of the frame. There's probably a better way to do it, but that's what I had around.)
edit: the length is also partly due to the fact that i usually include at least two unilateral movements for lower body.
I recommend elastic bands.
Every time I go on vacation I pack these with me and I can still get an awesome workout literally anywhere.They're affordable, easy to transport and I get a great workout when I use them.
The only downside to elastic bands is that eccentric-concentric ratio is a bit off because elastic tension is less when the band is shortened (eccentric phase).
I gained a lot of weight at my last job (photo gallery from that time), so I had to drop 30 pounds of fat, and gained 10 pounds of muscle (current photo gallery). I cut back to two meals a day permanently, and every other day I have a fruit smoothie blended from frozen fresh fruit as my first meal. Only supplement I add is fiber. Maybe three times a week I'll splurge on a normal meal at dinner or lunch but otherwise I'll always order small or half portions of any typical American restaurant meal. I drink ridiculous amounts of water and always have a bottle with me now. I work in IT and am not really active, porn is only supplemental to my day job.
I used to work out every other day but now do almost every day by splitting my routine in half, each half a day. First is floor exercises which includes three types of push ups and three types of sit ups with a medicine ball. I do reps until I can't do them anymore due to hernia patch sensitivity.
Second day is elliptical on 10/12 setting, which I've worked up to from 1/10 a year ago. I do shoulder exercises with rubber cords while running, three different types. I'll do pull up type arm exercises with both feet on one pedal to rest my legs. Lastly I'll do reverse pull ups on one pedal to work my back.
I've fully upgraded to trimming all my body hair, bar cuter on the Bodygroom. I was very hesitant on the legs but now I'd never go back.
I only wear tight jeans in public, as well as muscle shirts and thin sport fitted tshirts. I also have a younger haircut, picked out by my wife (sorry guys 😞), also all clothes picked out or approved by my wife. Embrace the #TwinkLife
I just got one of these for my birthday
I am excited as fuck to use it.
I agree. The air horns are so loud (maybe louder than a puny car horn?), and a LOT less weight. http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC
F getting a silly little bell. You want people to HEAR YOU:
Get one of these!
That's an airzound. (Or a knockoff... Does anyone make a knockoff?) I have one but the can is starting to rust out, and I'm genuinely unsure if I'm going to replace it or not. (Don't like the idea of a rusty pressure vessel!)
Here's the thing... when you need one, it's great to have. But the problem I have is that the actual trigger mechanism is so fucking huge that there's nowhere to place it on my bike that's within easy reach. As a result it's wayyy off-line for my thumbs so that I have to deliberately take my hand off my bars, search for the mech, and then push it. The upshot is that I'm only able to do that when I have a few seconds warning that I'm going to need to use it (this video would be a good example); it's definitely not something that you can place to reflexively hit in an emergency.
I guess if you had a cruiser with a coaster brake or a fixie that wouldn't be a problem. But I have a gear shifters and brake levers on both sides; there's absolutely no place to fit this giant butt fucking monstrosity on my bars within easy reach.
Not sure if this would scare them or make them worse, but you could try an airhorn or the airzound - http://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC . Its pretty loud and it may work with the other dogs of the road. ;)
Lansky sharpening system can be had $35. You can get your stuff really sharp with that. http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4
I don't have any brand recommendations for a set of whetstones or diamond stones, but you can easily spend something approaching $100 to get going.
And you can always use a piece of glass and wet/dry sandpaper to get stuff sharp. The method is called scary sharp iirc. Not really bifl though, you'll go through the abrasives.
Oh for sure! What's your price range?
For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.
If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.
What size tank do you have?
If you are set on the paintball set up, you can't go wrong with the Aquatek mini regulator. It is the regulator I have set up on my 15 gallon and it has been fantastic. Basically, the parts you will need are:
Obviously, CO2 setups aren't cheap, but with the paintball route you can do it relatively inexpensively compared to the full scale regulator route. Good luck! I'd be happy to clear anything else up for you if you have questions.
Edit: Make sure you have a check valve in the system somewhere. This will keep aquarium water from flowing up the line into the regulator. Some of those items I listed (like the GLA diffuser) have them built in, which will solve that problem. However, if you choose products without a check valve built in you will need to add one. Here are some (also more tubing there to choose from).
Sawyer Squeeze Mini
Cascade Mountain Aluminum Trekking Poles
I rarely have a campfire while backcountry backpacking. (I also live in the PNW)
Like you said - there are often full-time or seasonal restrictions on fires. Other times it just isn't worth the effort to start one.
I do LOVE fires when car camping. Especially in official campsites where there is wood for sale and a metal fire pit.
I use a canister stove for cooking when backpacking. It's quick and easy. They are pretty cheap and light too.
Fuel canisters are $5 each and last multiple trips.
Here is another setup for cheaper:
I've used pocket rockets and alcohol stoves for a good while. Lately I've been using the BSR Ulralight stove http://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U. Really cheap and light if you go the canister stove route.
Any stove you use will need to kept steady and level. As long as the canister isn't rocking you shouldn't have an issue.
Shout out for the G-Shock series of watches
Casio DW-5600E G-Shock
G-shock. Survived countless bleach baths. Lots of models available too
One I currently use:DW5600E-1V G-Shock Classic Digital Watch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GAYQKY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_OP4xxbF3C9K4K
Hot water and chemicals are tricky, but I think you can't go wrong with a classic G-Shock.
Best all around G-shocks, in my opinion, from least to most expensive, all under $200.
I've got Kryptonite 997986 Black 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396797497&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=new+york+lock+kryptonite ( I bought it for $72 )
Tougher steel, thicker, stubby, and locks on both sides of the U. Because it locks on both sides the thief would need to cut the lock twice.
The lock still can be cut with a battery powered angle grinder, but it will take longer.
All u-locks are not equal. Cheaper u-locks can be cut with bolt cutters.
Do you think its a good idea to build one yourself when you can get stuff like this for a bit cheaper? Perhaps its more for the experience and self creation aspect of it. Maybe your materials are more high quality than the ones used on the commercial racks that they sell. Materials seem expensive at 400.
I had the same problem. My solution was to empty a room in my house and buy a squat cage, a bench, and a set of weights. I then started doing a 5x5 workout on my own. Fuck the gyms.
Which model leatherman do you have? I love my skeletool cx, but it has the blade on the side which you said you don't like.
As far as legality, that's up to you to figure out length restrictions, open/concealed carry restrictions, your school's policy, etc.
Check out the Spyderco Tenacious: Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EI7578/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JmUAwbFDEZ57J
Or search for any Kershaw branded knife...for the price, you'll be satisfied. You aren't gonna find much in the way of quality if you want a multitool in that price range.
Can't go wrong with a Spyderco Tenacious for the money.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001T7QJ9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473872045&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ear+protection these are what I use for both airsoft and real steel, enjoy them heavily
If you have access to electronic ear muffs as well, those are AMAZING for first timers. (and, i mean, awesome in general, I find).
Whats nice is that they can still hear you relatively fine, but the shots are muffled.
I got a pair of these and it really, really reduces the "What did you say??" usually accompanied by starting to turn around while holding a loaded firearm.
Amazon has the Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 for 52.99 +tax w/ prime shipping.
Bushnell TRS-25 currently 69.99 on Amazon - Currently the best deal going IMHO
I got these recently; they work very well. I'm impressed by the quality for the price.
I realize this is not the sight you are looking for but the Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 is awesome for a great price. I have shot a lot with this along with my Eotech. you will need a riser along with this sight.
Needed an AR to get into 3 gun. Built one. Most people these days say at the entry-level AR price point to just buy a Ruger AR-556 or a Smith & Wesson MP-15 Sport. And I honestly don't see why when build kits are so cheap. For around ~$500 you can get one of the aformentioned guns. With a factory warrenty and support. But with a A post front sight, milspec furniture, and mil-spec trigger. Basically a plain jane AR in every way.
Or you can put together something with MOE furniture, a 13.5 Mlok rail, a cheap red dot, back up ironsights, a stainless steel barrel, and a upgraded trigger.
PSA upper so far has functioned flawlessly in the first 100rds it took me to function test and zero the sights and red dot. Fit and finish on the upper is just fine. And it seems to be just as accurate or not more for an AR in this price range. The EPT trigger included with the kit is pretty nice. Its probably a little under the weight of a milspec trigger. But it has nearly no travel, and a very clean and crisp break, with a short reset.
Bushnell TRS- 25 is a nice little budget red dot. They were a nice budget optic when I first put one on my Amazon wishlist 4 years ago. They were going for $80-100 back then. Now that they seem to be going for $35-45 dollars regularly it feels like stealing.
BCM Foregrip is really cool. I like the stubby compact grip, functions as both a handstop and a traditional VFG.
The whole build weighs in at 6lbs 12.9 oz unloaded.
Personally, I think this is a much better value than buying a cheap off the shelf AR.
A few notes. Prices are subject to change. I happened to snatch up the red dot at its lowest price available, but they often show up for around $40 or so.
Second I also built this of an 80% reciever because boogaloo. This obviously doesn't include the price of tools and the jig. But I could have just as easily used a $40 Anderson lower. Minus FFL fees because those vary.
Thirdly, this is representivative of what the average joe can build today. I hate seeing "budget builds" that start with people saying they used a once in a life time coupon and just happened to have half the build laying around in their garage. This isn't a gun thing either, every hobby has people like this. Also everyone seems to always have a "buddy" that is capable of doing some normally really expensive or complicated task for basically free. Not everyone went to kindergarden with some guy who just happens to be able to resurface the face of a engine block on their own dime Jim!. /rant.
Fourthly, I painted the reciever with truck bed liner. Don't do this. It goes on super thick, takes forever to dry as evidence from my smudge marks, and fucks up all the tolerances in the gun. But it does fit the spirit of the build. And the battle worn look is kind of cool, if it only fit the rest of the rifle.
|PSA Mlok Rifle Kit|$399.99|Palmetto State Armory|
|Raw Cerro Forge Lower Reciever|$37.95|Right to Bear|
|Magpul Pmag w/ coupon code|$7.99|Palmetto State Armory|
Base Rifle Price : $445.93
|Leapers MT-RSX8S UTG .83 mount|$10.51|Amazon
|Mlok BCM Gunfighter VFG|$18.95|Bravo Company USA
Total : $512.38
The TRS-25 is about as cheap as I'd go for something I'm going to stick on a 'real' caliber. If you're just going to use it on a .22 rifle, there's plenty of stuff on Amazon (NCStar, FireField, etc.) that'll likely work fine.
Maybe I've been lucky, as the three different rebate submissions (red dot, rifle scope, binoculars) I sent in last year all came through. You should be able to get a TRS-25 red dot for $2 after this rebate although some have claimed the Vista web page wouldn't accept the UPC. It worked for me last year.
This is the best price it's ever been on Amazon according to camelcamelcamel
Like a stand alone one? I happen to have one I've been trying to get rid of.
This is the one I have: Amazon Link
It is missing a single washer. It was missing that washer when I got it originally. Still works fine. I don't use it and I took it apart to save space, but still got all the pieces (aside from that 1 washer). And the instruction manual in pdf form somewhere I could print out for you.
You can have it for $50. I live in Waipahu.
edit2: Whoops wrong piece of equipment. Apologies. Good luck on your search and I'll leave this up for anyone else who might be interested.
This is the one I've been looking at.
I'm going to be starting the beginners routine and this works for pull ups and dips but I don't think it would work for rings. I need to do more searching but the area I'm in isn't very ring friendly.
Do you have any other recommendations?
I second this. I had the same problem last year training for my half. Nothing was working until I got myself a Trigger Point GRID foam roller. Night and day.
Do both. You'll see which you like. Then when you're further along, try the one you haven't gravitated towards again.
A foam roller like this is good. Something with a non-compressible core. If you're feeling up to it, just get a section of thick wall PVC pipe, you can get it from an irrigation supply store.
Get a foam roller, it hurts at first but you'll get used to it. I couldn't live without mine, I have The Grid.
Buy: The Grid Foam Roller or High Density Foam Roller
and Wikipedia Article
Fuck I'm too drunk to fuck with cherries, so I'll just give you the answers.
Before I answer your questions, I want you to know that getting more advanced meaning spending a lot more money and time. A lot us learn by making mistakes, and that's how I started, by making a lot of mistakes.
I don't know what level of planting you want to do. It can be as easy as adding a few amazon swords into your tank right now, or as difficult as buying new light, CO2 equipment, fertilizers, etc.
If you want to save a lot of money from mistakes then here is what you should do:
If you already have paintball tanks, you'll need a regulator (I have this one from Aquatek and it's been fine for two years. Nothing spectacular though) as well as a bubble counter and diffuser. I like atomizers as you get excellent diffusion with them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008TJCPSY this is what I use. Very well made.
Nimm eine erweiterte Erste Hilfe Ausrüstung mit und sorg' dafür, daß deine Reisebegleiter davon wissen und im Notfall dafür sorgen, daß die verwendet wird. Diese Seite hat eine gute Liste von dem, was man einpacken sollte. Besonders die Einmal-Spritzen, Kanülen und Disinfektionsmittel sind notwendig. Bei der Abreise kannst du alles nicht verwendete an jemanden Spenden, der dort wohnt.
Medikamente gegen Durchfall und Verstopfung kann ich auch empfehlen. Wasserfilter wie diesen oder diesen, und zusätzlich noch Wasserreinigungstabletten, sollten auch nicht fehlen.
DR Kongo hat die zweit-höchste Malaria Infektionsrate der Welt, also sollte Malariaprofylaxe und Insektenabwehr hoch in deiner Prioritätsliste sein. Kleidung sollte wenn's geht leicht sein aber die Arme und Beine bedecken. Das hilft sowohl beim Sonnenschutz als auch gegen Insekten. Es gibt mit Permithrin imprägnierte Kleidung die sehr empfohlen ist. Ansonsten gutes Insektenabwehrspray mitnehmen und ausgiebig verwenden.
You can buy a Sawyer Mini SP128 for not much more and get .1 micron filtration. Clean sip doesn't even list its filter specs on its website, most likely because it doesn't compare to more reputable manufacturers. Just because it's "the world's smallest", doesn't necessarily make it a smart purchase.
Do not get a Lifestraw! Get a Sawyer mini filter instead. They're back-flushable (you can unclog them if they get clogged) and they're guaranteed for more gallons of water than a Lifestraw. The mini filter will also screw on to a lot of plastic drink bottles, like the 12-20oz bottles you can get from vending machines.
As a back up, you can buy one of these pretty cheap:
Sawyer Products SP128 Mini Water Filtration System, Single, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8tgBDbGGF66B7
Or just grab a couple sawyer filters for $20 a pop. Still good to have some backup bottled water I suppose and fill up the tub, but with a sawyer I can literally just go drink out of a puddle if I need to.
| Lifestraw | Sawyer Mini
Membrane | 0.2 microns | 0.1 microns (2x better)
Capacity | 264 gallons | 100,000 gallons (378.8x better)
Bacteria | 6 LOG | 7 LOG (10x better)
Bacteria% | 99.9999% | 99.99999% (10x better)
Protozoa | 3 LOG | 6 LOG (1000x better)
Protozoa% | 99.9% | 99.9999% (1000x better)
Price | $19.89 | $19.41 or 4 for $67.51 ($16.88 each)
The mini is also smaller and comes with a 32 oz squeezable water pouch, 7" tube, syringe for cleaning (if it clogs)
>Attaches to included drinking pouch, standard disposable bottles (28 mm thread), hydration packs, or use the straw to drink directly from your water source
Seriously, these things are the bees knees: Howard Leight Impact Sport. They are 50 bucks and worth every penny!
Your number one priority should be to buy a GOOD pair of glasses (ANSI or ballistic Vo rated) and a GOOD pair of earmuff/plugs.
I'd look for Elvex Avion or Go-Specs II and Howard Leight Impact Sport earmuffs for something good and inexpensive.
Howard Leight Impact Sports work great for me. You can actually amplify sound louder than usual, and still get great hearing protection.
If by ear protection you mean "No BBs in my ear canal, plz," then get one of the larger lower mesh masks that also cover your ears.
If by ear protection you mean "ThunderBs are fucking loud," or "I want to shoot real guns too," then get these Howard Leight earmuffs.
I have these for civilians shooting. http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Impact-Electric-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O
I brought them once to an m 16 qualification range and found it hard to get a good sight picture with these in the prone and prone supported. They did fit under my ACH, I just had to loosen then chin strap.
I would be curious to try these, as it seems like they normalize sounds to a standard volume (amplify low noises, dampen loud stuff) rather than just blocking the high range.
If that's NOT what they do, and they're just squashing loud noises, then that tech has been around for quite some time and this is just some refinement to it or something.
Howard Leight Impact Sport
Not necessarily recommended for indoor use though.
> But what else should I get her? Ammo, sure. How much ammo is enough to practice for a bit? I really have no idea.
For ammo you'll want two varieties: defensive ammo and training ammo. Quality defensive ammo usually comes in a 25-round box, priced around $15-$20. You'll probably want 2 boxes of this, one to practice with and another to keep loaded in the actual/ready magazine for defensive use. There's about a dozen excellent brands on the market, I like Critical Defense by Hornady, but all contemporary 9mm defensive ammo is pretty good.
For training ammo you can buy it online. Just look at gunbot.net and sort by price. There's 3 general types and they'll all work fine: steel case, reloaded/remanufactured, and bulk. You just gotta keep an eye out on the internet regularly and find whatever deal looks good - be aware of hidden fees in shipping rates. Generally ordering ammo online is cheaper than the store, but check with your local gun store as they might sell cheap stuff. There's some puritans out there who claim issues with different types of training ammo, especially steel case - this is because they're confused and think that modern steel case 9mm is corrosive like old WW2 bulk steel case ammo was corrosive. TulAmmo and BrownBear and Wolf should all run mostly fine in your wife's Glock.
Quantity is going to vary - but you certainly can't have too much. At least 200 rounds for the first outing is good. Have her start with the cheap ammo, then before the day is over switch to the defensive loads and fire a magazine or two - this is mostly to ensure if functions in her pistol, there's not a huge difference in how it handles.
If she goes to a class the instructor will recommend or sell the ammo.
> Does it require a case or anything? A cleaning kit?
Generally a "case" for a pistol is the holster. Your gun store will sell some cheap types of holsters, and just start her with a really cheap one. When she moves to concealed carry she'll probably upgrade to one that fits her preferences of how she wants to carry and where to carry.
For cleaning you'll just need a bore brush for cleaning the barrel and a general cleaner/lubricant. Your gun store will sell some, I'd recommend Break Free CLP; it's an all-in-one spray. You actually don't really need to clean Glocks until after ~500 rounds, that's when you'll have malfunctions due to a dirty gun.
> What else is absolutely essential to buy with this gun?
Hearing protection. These Howard Leight ear muffs are extremely popular - they'll work fine for training purposes - they also amplify quiet sounds, so if there is a thump in the night you can throw these on and hear someone breathing in the next room. I've never seen someone disappointed in these ear muffs. If she's spending a long day at the range she'll also want inner-ear plugs as well.
You can find super reviews on just about any Mora knife at Amazon, but here's one example:
Honestly, just get this Mora for a fraction of the price. It's an incredible knife.
Especially when you can get an actually good knife for not that much more.
A Mora Companion is 14 bucks, and pretty solid.
If you want a cheap folder that doesn't suck, there's the 3.95 Tan Flipper from Wal-mart.
Ben perso j'ai beaucoup appris de youtubeurs comme Survival Lilly, TA Outdoors et MCQ Bushcraft, il y aussi des français comme Chartreuse Nature ou Blackwolf Chris (plus brut de décoffrage, mais que je recommande pour les gueuletons qu'il se bricole dans la forêt), et on trouve de nombreux sites et ouvrages sur le sujet.
Question matos si tu randonne sérieux tu devrais avoir le plus important, mais il faut surtout un bon couteau (ce qui ne veut pas forcement dire cher, le MoraKniv Companion est un classique très robuste qui coute environ 15 boules), voire une hachette si tu veux beaucoup construire, et les essentiels de la rando (trousse de secours, popotte, tente ou hamac, tapis de sol, etc...). Perso je m'équipe beaucoup en surplus militaire, c'est bien moins cher, souvent plus robuste et plus pratique que du Décathlon de luxe. Après tout dépend de ce que tu veux faire, si t'a des questions n'hésites pas!
Definitely don't get that.
Mora is the best budget knife you can get. It will take a beating and it's affordable.
Not sure about folder brands if that's what you're looking for.
It's not exactly Ultralight but at 3.8 oz / 110 gr. You get a good quality fixed blade thats inexpensive. Morakniv Companion
Basically what everyone else said, go to class. Yeah I get sometimes you're tired but really you'll do way better if you go. 9 times out of 10 you are not that person who can only show up for tests and get an A (or even a B). If you hate waking up in the morning either a: go to bed on time and/or b: avoid taking morning classes.
A bike is a good investment but you really don't need an expensive one (in fact I'd recommend against getting an expensive one, bike thefts are really high around the beginning of the school year). And if you do get a bike, and I can't stress this enough, get a U lock. They're super hard to cut and make a lot of noise in the process so most bike thieves won't bother with them but make sure to loop it through the front tire and frame. Worst case scenario, they'll steal your back tire but its better than your whole bike.
Someone mentioned that you should avoid apartments and go for housing. Honestly apartments are fine as long as they're not student living apartments. Avoid student living like the plague. They seem tempting at first, furniture and utilities included plus separate leases, but you're generally stuck with shitty cable/internet and the furniture is basically low end IKEA stuff. Yeah it'll be a bit more expensive getting furniture at first but you can find decent stuff for cheap on craigslist. And you'll save a lot more if you have people paying for single rent then individual leases.
I'd assume many of you will be looking for jobs. If you're trying to support yourself on a single fast food job you're going to have a bad time. They generally give you basic minimum wage and don't give you many hours to begin with. When I was working at TC I was making $70 per week max. My roommate who works at JJ makes about the same. Really the only way to get decent money doing fast food is delivery. Go for retail/grocery store jobs. They suck too but you'll get decent hours at least.
And last try to avoid spending too much time in your dorm/apartment/house/etc. It's okay to be introverted (but as cliche as this sounds) meeting new people is part of the college experience. If you live in a dorm, try hanging out in the lounge. If you're in the other living spaces, eat at the dorm cafeterias (terrible food but you'll meet people). And joining clubs is not a bad idea. There's generally something for everyone.
Depending on your location and school, having a gun in your dorm may not be illegal, but merely against the university rules.
If you are going to leave the firearm in your car, I suggest you disassemble it and take the complete upper (slide, barrel and recoil spring assembly) with you. Those components are not considered a firearm, and it leaves the receiver in your vehicle much less valuable a target for theft.
As for securing it in your vehicle, cheapest and most effective option is running a quality U-lock through the mag well and attaching it to a car seat frame (leave it underneath the seat).
This is a good U-lock:
I biked through Wichita Falls this summer on a cross country trip! Biking from Wichita Falls to Lawton, OK was one of my favorite days of the entire trip. Might not be the prettiest city, but some of the countryside north of there is great. (Also you guys have the Hotter Than Hell 100!)
For accessories you definitely want to get a hefty U-lock (this is a good one) and learn how to lock it up correctly. If you are going to be biking at night, get a front and rear light. If you are sticking to roads with street lights you need a "be seen" front light, if you are going to be biking in the real dark you'll need a higher powered "seeing" front light.
Here are the must-haves for anyone:
Optional but nice to have:
Depending on riding conditions:
You can do really well for edc gear you listed for well under $350.
That's what I'd probably buy if I had nothing and your budget. Sure, you can get more expensive knives or flashlights but these are all quality items.
On another note, a minimalist wallet like what you have shouldn't be an indication that "you don't have any money"! No one wants to carry a George Castanza wallet these days.
Good idea but do keep in mind that different steels respond very differently to the stone. Really cheap steel will usually be quite soft, maybe even too soft to properly sharpen without it "smearing" or rolling over.
Maybe start with flea market junk, but consider something like a $20 Kershaw Cryo as an intermediary step. Its a lot better steel and will give you good practice, but if you really booger it up and can't fix it, you're only out $20.
On the other hand, if you find you can properly maintain the edge on that Cryo you'll have no problem with just about anything else you want to try, plus you've got a really good entry-level folder as well!
if you get a pull up bar like The Iron Gym it may look like the weight is supported by the door frame but really all the frame is doing is keeping it from sliding down. It's designed so the weight goes directly into the wall (through those 2 poles sticking to the sides), the door frame itself takes very little of the weight. I used one in an apartment where the door frames where very cheap wood that was peeling off at the corners and it held up fine for the year I was there. Just something to consider if you really want to do pull ups.
Will scuff paint around door frame but that's it. Supported me at my heaviest (190lbs)
I have this Iron Gym which I mainly use for pullups. Pretty good investment in my opinion.
Whoa, what kind of therapist is this? You shouldn't have to do anything (any gendered thing) you don't want to do. I mean, I think working out is definitely a good idea, but you shouldn't be forced into it if it's not something you want to do.
But if it is something you want to do, I highly recommend getting a pull-up bar that fits onto your door frame (like this one - they have them for like $18 at Walmart (assuming you're from the US and if you're not I'm sorry for assuming :S)) and just starting with chin-ups. If you can't do a full one yet, use a chair to help support some of your weight (with your feet/foot) so that you can get all the way up, then very slowly lower yourself back down without using the chair. You'll be able to do one unassisted in no time if you keep practicing.
If you just do that and some push ups and squats, you're pretty much set, unless you're trying to be a body builder or something. And the good thing is these are all things you can do alone in your room so you don't even have to worry about binding or sports bras or anything (unless you feel too disphoric not binding to some extent).
pull up bar
This and This will fit.
Up to 300 lbs.
I'm not sure which barbells have a limit below 300lb, I haven't seen one at least. Even the Dick's Sporting Goods cheap one that is terrible is 300lb. Are you sure buying the one you picked is a good idea? There's several on Amazon for decent prices with 500+ limits.
Here's one for $140ish.
Here's a 6ft bar for $65 with a 500lb capacity.
One for $110 with a 600lb capacity.
This one has a 250lb capacity for $31 but it seems like garbage. It's a standard and seems like it may last a year at most. I had a similar bar once and it did not last. Plus the weight of the bar itself is low.
Here's one for $70s for a 7ft Olympic.
And you could probably find some decent prices on Craigslist or FB Marketplace. I got a Matt Chan bar for like $100 through craigslist.
You could check out /r/homegym for more suggestions. A common one is the Dick's Sporting Goods 300lb set though I warn you that the bar isn't great. I bought two sets for the decent and cheap weights and gave one of the bars to a friend. I used the other for a year and now it is a beater bar. Good deal for a bar and weights for cheap.
I've heard a lot of good things about the OB-86B Barbell. It's cheap and adequate until you're in the 600 lb range.
I like that rack for the price.
This is a highly rated budget barbell. It looks like $99 is an all-time Amazon.com low. I linked to the price tracker, but here is the direct amazon link
If you're thinking about extras / carry, budget $100+ for some good night sights, then another $150 or so for a decent gun belt and holster if you want to carry.
I'm sure there is a park somewhere near you with pull up bars.
Start with negatives. Hold the bar and jump up, hold yourself up for a second and slowly let yourself down. These will help. When I started last year I could maybe do 3 pullups. Doing pullups 2-3 times a week for 3 months and I had easily progressed to 10-15 as a max.
If that isn't an option and you can spare ~$35 then you could always buy a pullup bar for your house. Or if you want something that will help in a different way (and give you many other exercises to do at home) you could go for a set of resistance bands that have a door anchor
Hi there... I'm handicapped and looking to do something for working out my arms and possibly my residual limb. Any advice is appreciated. I'm looking at purchasing this:
Which has a door anchor, in hopes that I can use it from my wheelchair. I also have a ten lb dumbbell to start off with.
Does the linked resistance band set seem legit?
I had the same problem. I've used these bands instead of the pull up bar: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Mountain-Products-Resistance-Exercise/dp/7245456313/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1346700232&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=weight+bands+p90x
I like that with these you can use more than one type at the same time. And they didn't break at the end of the first month, either. I got them back in February and they're still going strong. Good luck!
I recently was asking myself this same question, and consensus seemed to be the Air Zound is the loudest horn.
Delta Airzound Bike Horn , colors may vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l5xYxbDSGJVRP
But I don't like the idea of needing an air reservoir for my horn. I have been using this for a while:
Hornit dB140 Cycle Horn with Remote Trigger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TDEV20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l7xYxb01YQYW2
It's very loud but ruined by the sound it makes: it's a chirping noise and people look up in the trees on shared paths instead of looking back or moving over. I ordered and just yesterday received this:
ORP SmartHorn and Bike Light - BLUE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3NK1O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_K8xYxbH94B542
A light/horn combo, with two different sounds. It's loud, and if you get it off the Orp website they include the remote trigger for free. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet but my initial impression is very good.
I got this https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2IDGL70Q0N3KJ&amp;keywords=loud+bike+horn&amp;qid=1565366365&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=loud+bike%2Caps%2C205&amp;sr=8-3
It's kinda obnoxiously loud. But if you don't lay on it, it's not too bad.
this horn will at least get their attention for a moment.
Get yourself an Azound bike horn: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC
That and a few loud "Coming through on the bike lane"!, usually clears it out.
I'd recommend a bike airhorn. Might seem absurd, but it's highly effective at:
Rechargeable (bike pump) Air Horn on Amazon.com for $24
It's something I've had on my bicycle touring bookmarks for a while, debating the purchase.
The AirZound was designed for you
Don't buy that Smith's thing. Scrape together a few more pennies and get a Lansky or Gatco sharpener. E.g. http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4
I have a Gatco that has 3 diamond and 1 ceramic hones but they work on the same principle. They are nearly foolproof and reliably produce insanely sharp knives. I put a 30 degree bevel edge on a machete that was sharp enough to shave with, cut down a tree with that machete, and in a few more minutes returned the edge (which was still pretty sharp) to that same scary sharp level...and I did it within minutes of unpacking the thing which means minimal learning curve for some of the best results I have seen.
I have this. It is amazing. everything I own I can shave with.
I think the general consensus on those sharpeners is that they don't work really well. From other knife sharpening posts, the products I've heard most about are the swing arm type of sharpeners, like this, stationary angled sharpening stones like this or getting fancy whetstones, like this.
Buy this. Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jsjXCbG97JK2F
I think the most idiot-proof sharpening methods are either the Lansky System or the Spyderco Sharpmaker.
I own both and I must say that I prefer the Sharpmaker more. It gets you to a shaving sharp edge in minutes. The Lansky takes more time but I think you will be able to get a sharper edge. More time meaning maybe hours for the initial reprofile.
If you want to learn to freehand, the Smith's Arkansas Tri-Hone is a cheap way to go to experiment. It gives you two decent sized Arkansas stones and a synthetic stone for just over $20.
Go and do likewise.
If you like your bike, bring it inside. Locking your bike up outside is pretty much asking for it to get stolen.
I lent a friend a tri bike, told him very specifically to keep it inside. what does he do? locks it up out side and it gets stolen. That was $1000 down the drain.
Also, learn how to lock a bike properly and get a decent lock.
You need a rack for Squats. Get one with safety bars like this one http://www.amazon.com/Powerline-PPR200X-PowerLine-Power-Rack/dp/B000VLRVSC/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347115235&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=squat+rack.
That way if you are squating by yourself and fail the weight, you done have it fall on top of you. Good luck!
Microstream The clip on mine is different but I think this is the same light. Love it.
Spyderco Tenacious Easily the highest value knife I've ever had/seen. I cut and pry the shit out of stuff with this knife on a daily basis.
Get a pullup bar for one of your doorframes so you have something to do pullups on and then girth hitch these to the bar when you want to use them.
The "all or nothing" personality is something I struggled with. I recognized it, as you have, but what really made the biggest difference was making it my primary focus. The reason I never seemed to reach my goals, time and time again, was because I burnt out. I was fueling myself with the initial rush of motivation, forgetting that I would soon have to switch fuels to something I wasn't ready for: discipline. So, it's important for us to start small. Have you read "The Hobbit"?
Bilbo Baggins didn't go straight from his comfortable little hobbit hole straight to the Smaug's lair. His first step was simply leaving his hobbit hole, which he never would have done if he knew from the start that he'd be facing a dragon.
So, you need to start small. You have these goals, which are great, but they are the long-term goals. We need to break these things down into small, do-able goals that won't result in burnout. You need to leave your hobbit hole before facing your dragon.
You want to start going to the gym, among many other things. Going to the gym involves:
(a) convincing yourself to go to the gym, even on a rainy day or when you're super comfortable at home
(b) getting off your ass, into the car for ~15 minutes, into the gym where you would feel guilty for working out less than 30 minutes since you drove there, driving back home for ~15 minutes
(c) paying for a membership
Is this sustainable right off the bat? Remember, this is about building habits. We want to make this so easy that you will have no problem doing this. So start small and reduce the barriers of entry that will likely burn you out after your 2 weeks of motivational fuel runs out.
I did this simple routine. You can do it at home, it takes 20 minutes max, and all you need is a pullup bar. How much more doable does this sound?:
(a) convince yourself to get off your ass and walk 10ft to your pullup bar
(b) do pullups, pushups, and squats for 10-20 minutes
People may chime in about this program is missing this or that or how barbell squats cured their cousin's cancer. Fuck 'em. Doing something consistently is infintely better than doing the "ideal workout" inconsistently for 4 months before tapering off working out altogether. And guess what? Once you have built the habit of working out and want to go to the gym, you can!
You want to keep up with housework. So, using the same principles, start small! I mean so fucking small that you would laugh at yourself if you couldn't even do that. Turn on your favorite song and do housework until that song is over. You aren't obligated to do any more than the length of that song. Sure, you may not have cleaned the entire house, done all of your laundry, and roasted a fucking turkey. But, you may have done the dishes, or at least half of them. Again, something consistently is infinitely better than nothing. And, again, guess what!? Once you have built the habit of doing housework for the length of a song, you can play two songs!
You want to be healthier and take better care of yourself. Well, working out and doing some housework certainly falls under this. Let's address healthy eating. Again, we want to make this as simple as possible. Here is what I do that has been working really well:
Toss the following into a pressure cooker:
Meat (Choose 1):
Veges & stuff (choose 4):
Sauce (choose 1):
I don't even cut anything. If anything, I just use my hands to split the green beans, carrots, etc. Again, low barrier of entry. Keep it simple!
At the same time, on the stove or in a rice cooker, make something to put this all on top of:
It takes about ~30 minutes to make a ton of healthy and tasty food. I do this twice per week.
For breakfast, I toss 1 cup of oatmeal in a bowl, 2 cups of water in that bowl, cover and microwave it for 4 minutes, and add a tbsp of brown sugar and maybe some peanut butter. Simple, easy, fast, little barrier of entry.
We've added quite a few (doable!) things for you to work on. You said you want to start studying programming. I would caution you to not start doing that now. You don't want to burn yourself out. Remember, start small, we're building habits here.
This doesn't mean you won't ever study programming. In fact, what if you start now? What if you burn out in 1 month and don't touch programming again? What if this leads you to stop working out, stop doing housework, stop cooking? It's not worth it.
So how do you know when you're ready to add studying programming? Read this. Only make 3 cards: workout, housework, cook.
Once you are done with these 3 cards, you can create a new one for programming. But make sure you follow the same principles of starting small! Only commit yourself to 10 minutes a day. You can always do more, but 10 minutes is success.
Enjoying this? Looking for another adventure to go on after 7 weeks of programming? Fix your sleep schedule. Make a card for light's out at : pm.
At this point, we're getting closer to facing Smaug. You want to add another thing? Add meditating. Again, start small! Start with 5 minutes a day, or maybe less! Whatever sounds so doable that there is no way you couldn't do it. I don't give a shit if that means 1 minute per day.
Don't feel bad if you don't fill out these cards perfectly. Remember, something is better than nothing. If you only have an X for half of those days, you've still improved yourself enormously.
There will be fuck-ups. Bilbo fucked up, but he still got to Smaug's lair. Use your fuck-ups. Fucking abuse those fuck-ups. When you fuck-up (which you will, it's part of the process), make it a point to learn from it. Make yourself glad you did it. Didn't workout today? Do something you otherwise wouldn't have done that day: maybe go for a short 5 minute walk, or call your mother to tell her you love her, or send an email to your favorite band or author and thank them for existing, or read a short story on /r/writingprompts, or write a haiku, or tell yourself you're fucking awesome. It doesn't have to be big, but I guarentee it will be worth doing.
Remember, the first step is coming out of your hobbit hole. There will be many, many challenges along the way. You might have to fight some spiders in Mirkwood, you might have to get in some barrels to escape some wood-elves, you might find a ring. Your life is a book, you aren't going to go directly from your hobbit hole to Smaug's lair. Along your journey, you likely won't even be thinking about Smaug's lair, because you should be focusing on the present, your 3 minute dishwashing session, your 10 minute workout. There will be a point you will look back and see how far you are from your hobbit hole. Before you know it, you'll be standing in front of a dragon's lair and realizing that back in your hobbit hole, you never in 100 years would have expected to be standing right there.
Now go take your first step toward becoming Bilbo.
About $30. I bought this and love it.
Try putting a towel over the top of the door.
If you'd rather have a real pullup bar, I think this one fits in the doorways. (It did in RAHPs, at least.)
This is an option if you want to shave some weight replacing the pocket rocket.
I've spent over 2 months with one had no complaints, and plan to take it on my thru starting next week (Ahh!). Just have to be more careful when you're cooking and watch out for winds/make a good windscreen for it. The biggest downside to them is you can't use them in a tent vestibule in the rain.
If you just want a light/cheap stove aren't set on alcohol, there's the BRS 3000, sub 1oz canister stove http://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U
I haven't hiked the JMT so I can't comment on your clothing system but here are some general thoughts:
Ditch the headlamp for a sub 1oz USB rechargeable flashlight $30
Ditch the Leatherman for a Victorinox Swiss Army Classic $15
Ditch the paper maps and use Guthook's since you already have it. $Free
Ditch the Sea to Summit X-Cup and I wouldn't bother with the hot lips either $Free
Replace the trash compactor bag with a Fumigation bag $2.49
Ditch the compass $Free
Replace the stove with the BRS Stove $15
All this should save you about ~11 ounces for ~$63.
If you are worried about fitting in the superior 35 I would take a look at the MLD Prophet $195. This should be plenty of room and will save you an additional 18+ ounces.
This really depends on your gear. The biggest weight savers are firstly bringing less (such as getting rid of extra clothes, knives, tablets etc) but then getting a lighter tent, sleeping bag, and pack. If you're good on those or can't lose weight there, next up could definitely be the cookset. A cheap light titanium pot and a light stove can make a big difference. Far down the list is tent stakes, imho. If you have cheap heavy stakes, sure swap them out. But there are bigger fish to fry if you're a novice.
Casio and Timex both have decent digital watches in that range. For an analog, Vostoks are great looking if you don't mind that they can gain/lose alot of time in a day otherwise Timex and Seiko has some good basic stuff that you could put a metal or rubber band on if it doesn't come with it already. Outside of that if all you can spend is $100 most of what you'll find either gonna find are cool looking but flimsy pieces or decently made but basic watches. If you can up your budget even to $150 your options from Orient, Bulova, and Citizen open up a little bit.
Heres an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.ca/Casio-DW5600E-1V-Mens-G-Shock-Watch/dp/B000GAYQKY/ref=pd_cp_241_3?pd_rd_w=DnbDr&amp;pf_rd_p=64a84aa4-b549-4445-9bf3-48bdeed5f24a&amp;pf_rd_r=8K57MK245NTA3NKHBGR6&amp;pd_rd_r=36414d5f-097f-4a7e-b149-d8ce04960931&amp;pd_rd_wg=n4O7l&amp;pd_rd_i=B000GAYQKY&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8K57MK245NTA3NKHBGR6
Heres and budget version, I have this, can personally recommend it: https://www.amazon.ca/Casio-W-218H-2AVCF-Classic-Digital-Display/dp/B07G2MS6SG/ref=pd_sbs_241_14?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07G2MS6SG&amp;pd_rd_r=76a46959-3424-402f-bc84-8b6b667e1601&amp;pd_rd_w=hJ3vc&amp;pd_rd_wg=4Oon0&amp;pf_rd_p=28c5fb4c-8ad7-463e-882b-b3c8499d441a&amp;pf_rd_r=4J2GJNJZKBMB5K8W5MGD&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=4J2GJNJZKBMB5K8W5MGD
That's a good choice. I actually prefer the [DW5600] (https://www.amazon.com/G-shock-DW5600E-1V-Black-Resin-Sport/dp/B000GAYQKY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498697594&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dw5600) (non-solar) version myself. (I own both.)
Either way, a way to accessorize (and potentially make a tough watch even tougher is to put on [Bullbars from Jays & Kays] (https://www.amazon.com/JaysAndKays-BULLBARS-Casio-G-Shock-DW5600/dp/B012UVDNN2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498697572&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=bull+bars). Congrats to your brother!
Personally I have 6.25" wrists and this watch is just a tad big. G-Shock DW5600E-1V
You can find them cheaper in the US if you're from there. They're available usually all over the world. Just be careful when using Deet products (ex. mosquito repellent) since it eats away at the resin.
If you're looking for an analog watch that you can beat around I'd say this Seiko 5 SNK809. It will also fit smaller wrists not to mention its probably one of the cheapest reliable automatic watches available from a reputable company.
Again there are many straps for both watches and a few different colours.
If This is too thick, try this one
Have a look at the (Casio G-Shock](http://www.casio.com/products/Watches/G-Shock/) line.
I have a DW5600E-1V and would strongly recommend it (if you're flexible about the second hand). I'm not a fan of a lot of the styling of the analog G-Shocks, but there might be something that catches your eye.
Found this sqaure g-shock for 46$,
and this white square g-shock for 70$ but it looks a lot better imo.
Sorry they're both square, but i really like the lower profile and reduced bulkiness.
Here are some deals I've seen and when they come up or shut down. (All times are Pacific)
USB Rechargable Bike Tail Light on sale at 3:45
Foam Rollers go on sale at 4
Kryptonite 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock, Black Goes on sale at 3
Revolights bicycle lighting system Midnight
Womens Pearl Izumi Shorts
Pearl Izumi Jerseys 4:00
Different pearl izumi bibs
Pearl Izumi shorts 5:45
Pearl Izumi bibs as shown below 4:45
Canari womens shorts
Brooks saddles bicycle bar tap 2:45
Yakima DoubleDown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack 4:45
Very compact sleeping bag 4:30
Compact first aid kit 3:00
Kryptonite Evolution Mini-5 Bicycle Ulock 3:35
Polar Heart Rate Monitor 3:30
LED Strobe Lights 2:30
Youphoria Sport Towel ends at 3:15ish
Sram Bar Tape ends at 2:50
Kryptonite NY Standard on sale 6:50
I think it's this one.
Casio G-Shock DW5600E-1V
Style: Classic Digital Tough
Link: Amazon Picture
Description: The classic designed G-Shock. Durable for almost any, a true tool watch. There are different countries of make including Japan, Taiwan, and China. Typically Japan is "best" and China is "worst," however the price varies significantly depending on the country of make. The one made in China can be had for a reasonable $40 and has no noticeable quality deficiencies. Arguable the most attractive G-Shock.
Main functions are: Time.Day.Date/Alarm/CountdownTimer/Stopwatch. Illuminates checking time in darkness.
Your cheapest bet is probably either the Casio F91W or F105W-1A. The F91W is a classic retro, but the backlight is just a single small LED which isn't great illumination. The F105W-A1 has a full on backlight for better night time legibility. Depending on how much functionality you need there's also what people refer to as the "Casio Royale", and if you need something super rugged but affordable there's of course the DW5600 G-Shock. All of those have an hourly beep/alarm that you can toggle on/off.
Something like this would be good: Casio DW5600E-1V Mens G-Shock Watch https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000GAYQKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g.CBCb86SDC38
I think it depends on the feature set and materials. A basic $50 g shock has a quartz movement and very basic timekeeping features (stopwatch, timer, calendar etc.) This $200 range man has atomic time keeping and is solar powered. This $400 variant is made of carbon fiber and had features like a barometer, altimeter, etc.
This $1000 model is made in Japan and features Bluetooth and gps, as well as other features.
If you want any watch with both a compass and temperature readings, it sounds like you'd be better off with a Casio Pro-Trek. They have more sensors than G-shocks, and are normally cheaper.
Here's one that costs only 50$ and has a compass, altimeter, thermometer, and barometer. That being said, it's not solar powered, and it has a negative display, which some people dislike (negative displays are slightly harder to read than positive ones).
If you want to go cheaper or really want a positive display, here's a 40$ one, but it does not have a compass or tough solar.
If you have your heart set on a g-shock. The only one with a compass and thermometer is this one, which, at 180$, does break the bank.
If you don't really care about a compass or thermometer that much and really want a g-shock, I can personally vouch for this at 40$, it's a steal. Other commonly recommended G-shocks are this one because it's less bulky and this one because not only is it less bulky, but it's one of the cheapest G-shocks with multiband-6 (for automatically syncing itself to the correct time) and tough solar.
My overall recommendation to you would be the 50$ Pro-Trek, as I think it fits your needs the best for cheap. However if you are against negative displays, it might not be for you.
Edit: Also the watch you chose is pretty cool. I just saw it was only 62$ on Amazon, that's a great option as well.
g-shock 5600 is what i use for my yard / play time watch
/r/Watches has a buying guide for watches from $0-$250 here that you might find useful.
Seiko 5 Automatic SNK809 - $65
Seiko SKX009K1 Dive Watch - $180
Citizen Eco-Drive BM8180 - $124
Timex Expedition Field Chronograph - $48
Timex Weekender - $32
Casio G-Shock DW5600E - $41
Casio F91W - $11
Do you have any preference towards digital, quartz (battery powered), or automatic (mechanical)?
(Maybe the obvious answer but) I use a G-Shock 5600 . Cheap, durable, and pretty minimal. There are some cool color ways and collaborations out there but I like the original.
Honestly for that price you should go digital. The Casio 5600 does what you need it to, plus it's a classic with a lot of history behind it (one of the few watches certified by NASA for space missions).
Or, you know, a JLC Memovox Deep Sea :D
Ya legit gymnastics parallel bars are expensive. I have a iron gym pull-up bar and MDUSA rings but i hang my rings on a beam in a garage. I also have hanged them on a branch of a tree (make sure it's sturdy), on swing sets with the swings moved out of the way, on monkey bars, and on a football goal post. All were very succesful getting enough height and room on the sides is the most important which is why monkey bars actually work better than a narrow pull-up bar.
If drilling isn't an option then buying some sort of pull-up bar to hang them on is probably your next best bet. An iron gym is pretty cheap and with a couple of nails you can secure your doorframe extra if your worried about it being flimsy although my apartment doorframe does fine. You could also do a power tower for pretty cheap.
Definitely buy yourself a pair of adjustable gymnastics rings. The plastic ones are much less expensive, but when your hands get sweaty they don't have a good grip like the wooden ones. You should get wooden rings if you can, but you can get plastic ones for the time being and later on move to wood if you want to.
>I'm advised to stay away from weights so I shouldn't do lat pulldowns or other things like that (I'm 13, so my mom and other people around reddit say that I need to grow first). Should I still be using dumbbells for squats, and how? Should I do deadlifts?
It's a myth that weights will stunt your growth, so you could always move to free weights in the future if bodyweight training isn't right for you. Bodyweight training is great, though! You could use dumbbells for squats, lunges, and other things if you wanted to, but for now just stick with the recommended routine and follow the squat progression for your legs.
>How do I use the smith machine for rows? I've read around here and r/Fitness that it's great for them, abd I know to put the bar to my waist, but should I put any weight on it or leave it as a blank bar?
Until you get your rings you can definitely use the smith machine for rows. Alternatively you could do dumbbell rows:
>I tried asking people at the gym about this, they were super nice :) but they suggested I use the lat pulldown machine or some other weird machine where you lift yourself up to bars, but there's a footrest under you that just holds your weight (so I don't feel any exercise happening).
That seems to work for some people, but it's really better to do pull up or chin up negatives. This is where you boost yourself up by jumping or using a platform to get yourself high enough to grab the bar/rings and lowering yourself down as slowly as you can. The lat pulldown machine is a completely different movement from actual pull ups and chin ups, but if you want to use it that's fine.
>If you can help and/or leave some advice I'd appreciate that :)
You really only need to know some basics about bodyweight training in order to do it and get something out of it. You'll learn slowly as you do this for longer. Don't worry about trying to know everything all at once. The most important thing is for you to begin working out and then stick with it. :)
Feel free to post any other questions that you have in the daily discussion threads that we have here. People who do calisthenics (bodyweight training) tend to be very helpful and this in general is quite a helpful community. We enjoy what we do and when see someone else who wants to get into it we do our best to help that person.
If you can get your parents to help or you can do chores to try to earn the money slowly you could also get yourself a doorway pull up bar that fits into your door frame. "The Iron Gym" isn't very expensive and it doesn't screw into your door. It uses leverage to hang from the top of the door so you can do pull ups or even hang your gymnastics rings from it. You mentioned that your gym doesn't have any pull up bars so you could do some things at home if you wanted to instead of always needing to go to the gym. You could do part of your routine at home and then finish up at the gym.
There are knock-off versions of The Iron Gym and they all pretty much work the same. It's not a very expensive piece of equipment but it will let you use your rings at home.
I have this one. I have had it for 3 years and I use it constantly.
As long as you do your pull ups in full control, and not Crossfit style, you won't break anything.
Look up HIIT, EMOM, Tabata, and those should lead to other searches.
No equipment? Get one of these at least
Warm-up (5 minutes)
Jog for a bit and slowly increase pace. It should be light and easy.
Strength Cycle (16 minutes)
Timing: 40sec on, 20 off.
Repetition: 4 rounds
Conditioning Cycle (10 minutes)
Timing: 30 sec on, 30 off
Repetition: 10 rounds
Cool Down Stretching
Do the Limber 11 stretch/roll routine
This should take you around 40 - 45 minutes.
Look up Crossfit WOD stuff and narrow your choices to that that doesn't require equipment.
Also look up sand bag workouts. A sandbag is easy equipment.
I had one of these for a while in my apartment. Never messed up anything.
The Iron Gym Total Upper Body Workout Bar is pretty awesome. Have had mine for about 8 months now.
this is the one I have, but I usually do the RR at the gym because it requires parallel bars for dips (you can do dips on this pull-up bar too, they're just less challenging)
I don't think many people appreciate just how much of a workout you can get from doing calisthenics. You won't be able to walk into a gym and do heavy lifting, but calisthenics will definitely get you in shape.
For a quick workout, I'd recommend doing 'pyramids'. Start by warming up (quick jog around the block, or run up and down the stairs a few times). Then pick a few exercises. Jumping jacks, squats, lunges, pushups, situps, and leglifts are a good place to start. You can add various add exercises, like different kinds of pushups as you progress. Then start with a number like 15 or 20 (depends on how much you can do and how long you want to exercise). Do 15 of each exercise, then 14 of each, then 13 of each, and so on all the way down to 1.
This is actually a warmup we would do sometimes at my dojo, and it's one hell of a warmup. It doesn't take too long but it will tire you out.
Also, you have many things around your house that could be used as 'weights' which would be helpful for squats/lunges/etc. Find a heavy textbook, a gallon of water, etc. As long as you do enough and you do them right, squats with a gallon of water is more than enough to get your legs burning.
Anyway, good luck and don't let a "lack of resources" stop your progress. You can get a good workout without a gym.
You don't expect to lift more than 250lbs? You wholly underestimate your strength. You should be able to pull more than that on a deadlift before you max out on SL 5x5.
IF you really want to stick with lifting and not just a program but being dedicated to lifting regularly, then buy quality. Being thrifty doesn't mean buying cheap. It means getting the most out of what you spend, and good quality stuff will last you a lifetime.
Titan racks are great value, If you can't bolt the T-3 to the floor or a platform, look into getting the free standing T-3 Squat Stand with spotter arms. The T-2 cage isn't as heavy duty but still more than enough for most people.
There are other options but Titan's a good value.
As far as bars, get the CAP-OB86 which is a highly regarded barbell for it's price whihc regularly goes on sale for as low as 100 dollars.
As far as plates go, buy used if your local area has a good craigslist base. Get mostly 45s with a pair of 25s and 10s
Buy the Adidas flat bench which is a cheap but sturdy option to the more beefier $150+ dollar options
While I agree that a cheap barbell isn't the way to go, I don't agree that a $250 Rogue bar is the bare minimum, as we often see in this sub. The low end Ohio Bar doesn't have much corrosion protection either, so depending on your lifting environment, you may have to buy a more expensive version to avoid rust. From what I understand, the CAP OB-86B gets the job done with regard to durability and weight tolerance. It has good reviews, and also been known to drop to $100 when on sale. https://www.amazon.com/CAP-Barbell-Olympic-1000-Pound-Capacity/dp/B001K4OPY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522953107&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cap+beast
Why not save $100 and get the black one:
$50 on Amazon
Definitely worth it. They are nice and low-profile, too, so if you ever get a rifle they don't interfere too much with your cheek weld.
would recommend the ones linked below (and by mr1337). (Howard Leight R-01526 Impact Sport Electronic Earmuff) i see a lot of instructors using them, which is a pretty big surprise:
First layer of protection: ear plugs. I use these.
Second layer of protection: electronic ear muffs, either the Howard Leight Impact Sports or the 3M Peltor Sport Tactical. Both work fine and choice is determined by which fit your head better. I tried the Impact Sports and they wouldn't seal right around my ears so I got the Peltors instead and they're perfect.
Don't forget eye protection too...
With those, I can hear even better than I can without. They will amplify every creaking floorboard, every mouse fart, and when you finally fire, they will save your hearing.
Did you notice the part where they have microphones that amplify all the sounds that aren't gunshots? Howard Leight makes a set like that, but they're fifty bucks. The set you linked aren't really comparable.
That said, the $50 HL set are pretty good. I'd recommend some foam ear plugs and cranking the amplification all the way up. You can hear people talk and feel pretty safe about your hearing.
I've seen these electronic Howard Leight Impacts recommended enough that I bought a pair ($60 at Cabelas). I just used them for the first time this weekend and I was happy with the performance. I might need to look for new shooting glasses, though, as my current glasses' arms stick out quite a bit and these ear muffs pushed them into my ears uncomfortably.
Gun safety companies have been doing this for years. I have a pair of shooting earmuffs that would let you hear a mouse fart 100 yards away but goes perfectly silent when it detects a gunshot.
I have these, and they work very well. You can go up to the $200+ Peltor muffs, but for a vast majority of cases, the Howard Leights will work fine.
If your only issue with your headset is the inability to hear your surroundings, they do have headsets that amplify ambient sounds under a certain level and only block out loud sounds. They have an input for your radio.
> I’m not wearing ear protection
Get something like electronic muffs. I have this pair, and they're great. You can speak at normal conversational levels.
Yes, you can buy a pair on amazon for like $35. being able to hear conversations next to you while remaining hearing-safe is a great safety feature. they block sound 100% of the time and have battery microphones that pick up sound so even if they dont have power they still protect you.
>Electronic muffs are fine no matter what.
Uh, no. Most electronic muffs on the market have a lower NRR than their non-electronic counterparts, meaning they provide less noise reduction and therefore less hearing protection. That fact alone means there are situations where electronic muffs will be the inferior choice.
A popular electronic muffs like Howard Leight Impact Sports only have a NRR of 22db compared to passive muffs like these from Decibel Defense with an NRR of 37db. Since decibel scales are logarithmic, a difference of 12db is a big deal. An increase of 3db means a doubling of noise intensity, so the 12db difference between the two represents an over tenfold increase in intensity. That's a significant difference.
Electronic muffs can be fine in many situations when used properly, but they're definitely not fine "no matter what". There are absolutely situations where there are better choices and shooting indoors with a lot of other people that you don't need to communicate with is one of them.
Howard Leight by Honeywell Impact Sport Sound Amplification Electronic Shooting Earmuff, Classic Green (R-01526) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8JAXDbEGK8JCH
For $35 bucks you can buy the Howard Leight Impact Sports, they have a slider so you can increase the noise of sounds near you, but it cancels out noises over 82 db according to the amazon list. Not sure if its what your looking for.
I love the relatively inexpensive howard leight folding muffs. Me and three other guys I go to the range with all use them and its wonderful to be able to talk to each other and still protect our hearing.
<$50 and we have not had any problems after over a year of use
These ones are pretty nice. https://www.amazon.com/Walkers-Electronic-Protection-Amplification-Suppression/dp/B01AAH8CMA/ref=sr_1_1?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;qid=1554129576&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A3451704011%2Cp_89%3AWalker%27s+Game+Ear&amp;rnid=2528832011&amp;s=sports-and-fitness&amp;sr=1-1
I also have a couple pairs of Howard Leight's for guests. They are ok, but not as good as the above. https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Amplification-Electronic-R-01526/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=sr_1_1?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;qid=1554129673&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A3451704011%2Cp_89%3AHoward+Leight&amp;rnid=2528832011&amp;s=sports-and-fitness&amp;sr=1-1
New here?! Those are the typical go to. Only down side is they're not as good for rifle shooting because they hit the stock.
You want these.
trs-25 is 64.99 at amazon.
Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 Red Dot Sight Riflescope, 1x25mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00200E0HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_27.IBbZNVGYH0
All day, everyday.
For right around that price point you can get a real steel Bushnell TRS-25 which will be infinitely better.
This is the red dot I got for my little badger. It's super cheap but works well enough for me so far. The only real downside is it makes the gun to big to fit into the carry bag that it comes with, but I chuck mine into a backpack anyway so it was a non-issue.
The sight is rather low profile so it actually looks pretty good on the gun and at the same time gives it a MUCH nicer sight picture. The default sights on this gun are... not very nice imo.
I would return that back to Amazon and replace it with (r/https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00200E0HM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) cheaper and its a Bushnell. I purchase two of these and they have held up great.
I hit up Amazon for a stamina 1690 bar. It works pretty well, not much wobble and it seems sturdy enough. I'm 6'0 and 195 lbs. If there's a discount sports equipment store around, go hang off a few things and see what you like. Be sure to measure the height of your ceiling before you buy.
Another option is a door frame bar. It will probably mark up the door frame. I've done the RR off of both without a problem.
I use this. It fits in the corner of my office. I almost hit the ceiling at the top of pull up form, but it works perfect. Maybe 2 or 3 feet square and maybe 7 feet tall.
If you have the room for it there are free-standing pull up bars.
I bought the below free standing pull up station about 8 months ago... Not as compact as a door one but I didn't have any doors that would work well with the pull up bars.
Really surprised for the price I expected it to be pretty shitty but it's not. Very good quality.
I'm also in this position of figuring out the equipment I need.
I was thinking something like this Power Tower or this one
Originally I was thinking hey I will just build it myself with pipes. Well, doing that is more expensive than just buying one of those power towers.
I'm a little concerned about the width of the dip handles though...Being too wide?
Anyone have experience with these towers? I need something for pullups because all the doorways in the house have extra big molding around them so are unable to accommodate my pullups bar :(
I personally like this one the best: http://www.amazon.com/Trigger-Point-Performance-Revolutionary-Roller/dp/B0040EGNIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398705650&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=trigger+point+foam+roller
After getting used to that one, I feel like the black, plain jane firm ones, are almost useless in comparison!
What exactly is wrong with foam rolling the lower back? Spine in an unnatural position?
Any differences of preferences?
/ Kershaw Cryo G-10
Can you be a little more specific on what you prefer? Flipper/non-flipper? thumb stud/thumb hole/thumb disk? assisted/non assist?
I had a Spyderco Persistence for a while. Its good, but not great like the Tenacious.
Off the top of my head things that are cool and don't break the bank:
Gerber Impromptu Pen
Definitely a sawyer mini water filter.
Gorruck 34L GR2 Coyote Tan - a good bag, heavy, uncomfortable, probably give it to my grandchildren in like 50 years
Flip Flops - generic things
Bigblue 28W solar charger - very good, can charge my battery up during the day if i leave it in the sun which I've never really done honestly
Jakemy hardware tools - seamed useful? i've never needed this
Army glove shells - i thought i used these a lot and were indistructable but now that i think of it, i don't use them that often and are probably pretty cheaply made.
Sharpie, pen, all weather notebook - probably should switch over to a fisher space pen...
Straws - these are probably already broken.
Whistle - really really really loud
Fire-striker, matches, lighter - i'm not sure i have enough ways to start a fire
Fresnel lens - ok, now i have enough
LED flashlight - i used to go running in the middle of the night with this flashlight, its tiny
LED flashlight - this isn't the one i have but looks kinda similar? i don't remember where i got mine
Earbuds - generic cheap earbuds
Leatherman Surge - given to me by my wife for passing the bar. thanks wife!
First Aide kit - i put mine together from stuff i've stolen from friends houses whenever i go over and use the bathroom
playing cards - these look very similar to the ones i have, they are plastic so they won't get rained on
glasses/ sunglasses - i have really bad vision
personal hygiene kit - aahhhh dry shaving
Sawyer Mini / syringe, collapsible canteen (dirty), heavy duty straw - i've never used this
collapsible canteen (clean) - i've never used this either
sewing kit - i've used this a lot
ID tags - i guess if i get blown up they'll know my blood type?
garbage bag - for when my pockets are full
elastic bands - i use these when packing to keep rolled socks and things from falling apart
Salt - i have nooooo idea why i have this
cooking grate - i'm not going to hold meat over a fire with a stick like some sort of caveman
heavy duty ziplock bag - in case my mapcase breaks and other reasons
rip-patch - leftover from when i needed a pack because i bought a crummy cheap inflatable sleeping pad.
Army Fleece Beanie - i always keep this at the top of my pack
4 Bungie Cords - not the one i use but similar. to make a field-expedient shelter
Trowel - for disposal of biological wastes
Lensatic compass - because GPS should only be a backup
Pocketboy 130 folding saw - i have a bigger one for yardwork, this small one is really great
Tent stakes - for tent staking
Ravpower 26800 Battery - use this all the time can fast chage my stuff
Battery Battery holder, cables, wall charger - all fits togehter like glove!
Army Poncho - wear it, make a tent out of it etc
Microfiber towel - not the one i use but similar. i mainly use this for when the kids accidentally fall in a lake like they tend to do for some reason
Down Jacket - cheap chinese knockoff... i feel bad for not buying american
Wet weather top - not sure this is worth the space/weight
Wet Weather bottom - not sure if this is worth the weight/space
Silkweights - PJs! and warmth
Jungle Blanket - this is a lot better than the army's woobie. lighter and warmer
Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet - again, gift from wife. she wanted me to chop things and be more manly, generally. now i come home with parts of wildlife for her to cook
Map of New England - or, how i stopped worrying and love dismounted land navigation
PT belt - keeps me safe in all situations
Compression straps - i don't like lashing things to the outside but i guess i can if i wanted to
Fork and Spoon - stole these from the kitchen. i'll probably be replacing this soon with something titanium.
EDIT: i just priced it out: $1,585.08 total
I traveled with the Grid Roller in my carry on. It's hollow, so I just stuffed my socks and underwear in it and jammed it in a side pocket.
Lol, alright for example:
There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...
I'm pretty happy with my choices, and they come in right under $200:
I bought a Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade, Military Green, 4.1-Inch a few years ago. I use it for meal prep because it's fixed blade and about the size of a kitchen prep knife. The Amazon site shows its use for camping tasks, too.
EDIT - just saw this has been recommended a few times already. Must be good!
And 3. This one is about a Mora:
If you aren't in a city with notoriously high and advanced bike theft, and aren't leaving it out overnight, try this: http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Pitbull-Ls-11-5-4-5/dp/B005YPKBRI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463020335&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=onguard+pitbull
The long shackle is technically less secure, because it's easier to leverage open, but in a place without a lot of racks it's a blessing to have, because you can fairly easily find /something/ in short walking distance that'll go around, unlike the smaller Ulocks that mostly only work with racks (or, I've found, bikes without big bags and wide upright handlebars). It's a good medium security lock, and both sides of the shackle lock. Downsides, it's heavy, because big, but not as heavy as a chain which is your next smart option (don't get cable locks, they can be cut soooo easily), and the mounting bracket is OK, but I've had two of them fail. I just carry mine in a bag now.
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463020570&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kryptonite+series+2 This is a little lower security lock, but still a mighty fine one in an area with mostly thefts of opportunity. The included cable is for passing through your wheels for a secondary bit of safety. It's the best selling option at the good local bike shop out where I am (Indianapolis).
As for using them, this is the classic guide: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html His method is routinely the best, but without racks it can be hard to lock through the wheel and not the frame. If you can't lock through the wheel, make sure the shackle goes through one of the triangles. And, no matter what, lock to something securely attached to the ground and don't lock to anything the bike can be lifted off and over. Be sure and try lifting any cheap racks you do come across, you'll be surprised how many aren't bolted down right... or at all.
> -If you ride a bike around your campus: get a u-lock and a u-lock only.
And use it right. Through at least the the frame and bike rack, front tire if you can, and if it came with an extra chain/cable, loop that through the back tire.
This kind of lock set is what I mean.
Here is an excellent run-down of the topic:
Best take-away quote from the article:
>What does it mean that a “decent” lock takes 63 seconds to breach with an angle grinder whereas the “best” takes 117 seconds? Exactly what it sounds like: almost nothing.
Therefore get the Kryptonite Series 2 lock with a cable for attaching your wheel.
Also how you lock your bike, what you attach it to, how long you leave it there, and where you leave it have much more of an affect on your bikes overall safety than the difference between withstanding an angle grinder for 1 minute or 2 minutes.
Here are my personal essentials.
Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.
It’s not a cleaver or sheepsfoot style, but this is another excellent option
Half a pound? I'm not UL and that's still way too heavy for backpacking.
I've got a Kovea Supalite Ti, just over 2oz. Works great, replaces my MSR Pocket Rocket.
I've also got a BRS 3000T which is about an ounce- it's a great tiny stove if you're just heating up water in a mug. Can't really cook anything on it though, if I want to actually cook food I'll bring along the Supalite.
Sounds like you probably don't NEED the Whisperlite as you're not really taking advantage of its features and carrying all the extra weight of a Whisperlite.
There are tons of cheap canister stoves on Amazon. Since your friends use a Jetboil, it sounds like you can buy canister fuel. I currently use this stove. https://www.amazon.com/BRS-Outdoor-Camping-Portable-Ultralight/dp/B00NNMF70U/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510073163&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=bsr+stove&amp;dpID=41J7KacqzpL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch I do find it is loud, but I bet it's much quieter than the Whisperlite which IIRC is very loud.
I've never understood the advantage to the Jetboil systems. IMO, they add a lot of extra weight to gain the fuel efficiency advantage of having a heat exchanger added into it. To me, they are simply not worth the extra expense and weight penalty.
The quality is all pretty similar. The real difference is in feature set and ability to control the flame-for example there's a world of difference in flame control between a Primus Omnilite and a MSR Whisperlite even though both are high quality products with a proven track record of reliability.
Some of the cheap canister stoves are also pretty good quality, since there just isn't too much engineering that's needed to make one. The BRS stove is a good example of such. These things are really just a screw on valve assembly and a burner, not much else is needed.
This is lighter then the micro rocket and much cheaper then both the pocket rocket and micro rocket.
Others on the Ultralight subreddit have recommended this stove as well.
Your stove is fairly heavy, you can save 9 oz with a BRS3000 (.9 oz) and a light aluminum or Ti pot. This is the cheapest way to lighten up if you want to stay with a cannister. A DIY ethanol stove is cheaper and lighter still.
Do you need such a heavy battery?
Are you bringing a phone?
Sterno is a terrible fuel for backpacking. I'd use a canister fuel stove. A cheap option is the BRS 3000 - link here.
An alternative would be to build your own alcohol stove, which is easy but slightly more finicky. Follow the rough directions [here] (http://andrewskurka.com/2011/how-to-make-a-fancy-feast-alcohol-stove/)
OK, here is a brain dump of whatever comes into my mind. Just hoping to spark your memory so don't get mad if I say a bunch of stuff you already know...
Put all the pieces into a lighterpack.com account and checkout r/Ultralight before you buy (head over there and burn down the sidebar reading list and the incomplete-wiki, it's worth it).
Is that Osprey really 70 L? That's huge. Probably weighs a ton, what are you bringing that fills up 70 L on a 3-5 day summer trip? A 50 L beer keg? Maybe you have some sweet luxury items that take up a lot of space in the pack, but I'd drop the volume on the pack to at least 50 L. If you can manage it, Try a Ultimate Direction Fastpack 30. But if you just can't get your volume that small, get what works. Weight is an issue too, in frameless packs the straps are uncomfortable over 30 lbs, sometimes less. But if you make some smart choices right now, you shouldn't bust 30 lbs. (It's also smart to get the rest of the gear first to get an idea of how much volume you'll need in your pack and if you'll need a frame.)
Research quilt vs sleeping bag. Quilts are big these days unless you are a crazy sleeper. Enlightened Equipment is the shiz. I've bought 4 quilts and made 3 DIY and EE are the best I've tried. EE also sells a synthetic quilt called the prodigy which I use in the summers or as a layer in the winters. I hear that Katabatic quilts are truly the best if the price tag doesn't scare you away. And a super cheap, but quality option though on aliexpress, it's buy at your own risk. Worked for me last time, doesn't mean it will next time.
Massdrop is selling a skinny UL static V (and the insulated verion) right now for cheap. (I own the insulated option and bought it from massdrop.) But there's a lighter not-as-skinny pad called a Thermorest Neoair Xlite. Also the sea to shining sea ultralight pad gets high marks. So look at those, see what other pads are popping on r/ultralight, the balance the weight and costs to your preference. (Assuming you know about r-values and what your needs will be in Maine/Vermont. I'm guessing spring is a little cold so maybe r=~4 in the early spring or high altitude?)
Nemo tents are great. If you're only camping spring/summer I'd get a much lighter weight tarp tent. Like 3 lbs or less including stakes/cords (and footprint if your tent has a bathtub floor).
11-14 oz MSR Whisperlite is awesome. Stoves are pretty personal, it's best to go with one you trust. MSR is probably the right choice for you. I use a tiny 2oz stove and a homemade windscreen. My stove is finicky and too small if you're cooking for 2 or more. However, there's a whole mess of stoves between the 2oz and 14 oz which might still cover you and save you a few ounces or half a pound. Like the Kovea Spider which I also have, and use in the cold (gas liquefies and fuel can must be inverted, so I need a freestanding stove with a tube). I'm personally biased against the jetboil because of how much space it takes in my pack, but I own 2. They are fast, good for groups. Again the MSR is NOT a bad choice.
You also need a cook pot. Titanium is a waste of money, find a cheap Aluminum one for the same results. Like the olicamp ones, or if you want a real lid, you'll have to spend more (the metal lids cost way more for some odd reason).
Water filtration. Everybody ravs over the Sawyer Squeeze and I guess I'm out of the loop having never tried it. Fretting about making sure my filter doesn't freeze seems like a source of anxiety. I'll try it eventually though. I like the hand pump water filters. I rock an MSR hyperflow. And if I'm in a big group, I'll break out my Katadyn 6L Gravity Filter.
Get a down jacket from costco or sams for 20$, if you're camping in it, you'll wear it out so no use spending a ton there. (Down packs small and won't take up nearly any pack space)
Get a headlamp, I prefer blackdiamond or Fenix. For BD this image sums it up very nicely. For fenix there's a variety but I am currently using the HL55 (900 lumens). Again look at the weights, but also look at the battery requirements and the longevity/efficiency. Find what you like.
Ok my brain is dumped. Hopefully I hit on something worth your time. If I were you, I'd go as cheap as possible, then put the savings into funding your travel for hiking or buying a kayak. Random, I know, but having blown tons of money on gear I feel like there's quality for a good price if you look for it. And using the extra money to break into a new hobby opens the door to a potentially mind altering experience. Especially a related hobby like kayaking, fishing, snowshoeing, rock climbing, diving (though this one is lots of money), or whatever's clever.
Here is what I think is the best stove for backpacking and it is $12.
Add a fuel canister to that, a cheap pot, a mini bic lighter and a spoon and your kitchen is complete.
Rent the Big3 from REI (sleeping bag, tent, pack). Buy the Sawyer Mini water filter for $25 and use Smartwater bottles to store water. Take your existing clothes (no cotton) and use your existing shoes.
Here is a great little stove. It's a Chinese whisperlight, but I've been using it quite a bit over the past 2 years and have no complaints whatsoever. Also super cheap, which gives you more money to play with.
The Sawyer mini squeeze is also a great item to have. You should have $20-25 left after these two items.
Here's a decent magnesium fire starter for cheap as well.
With these items, all essential/survival items, you should have about $15-20 to play with. Maybe some socks?
These work great for me:
These work great and can offer you a whole new workout.
definitely was the truck, but super loud bike horns do exist.
What about one of those really loud airhorns? It could put someone off guard without directly causing injury.
I raise you a rechargeable air-horn:
This is the one that I have. I've been very happy with it!
You either ride on the sidewalk (which, IMHO, is totally fine if you judge the road to be extremely dangerous... don't ever risk your life... ) or gird your loins and take the fuck out of the lane. Light yourself up like a Christmas tree, get one of these, wear a reflective vest, and get ready for stressful nonsense and road rage. The ride MAY not be as bad as you think once a few additional factors are taken into account:
That's awesome! You're definitely free to come by shop hours and ask advice and use the tools there. We've got all the bike tools you'd need for sure.
I'm sure if you post the picture on our Facebook page you'd get lots of helpful suggestions. To start you off, I'll recommend an Airzound horn. They're ridiculously loud and refillable with your bike pump.
It's not true that we sharpen our own knives here in Michigan. Most of us just have dull knives. But you don't have to, you can buy one of these instead. http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4, and then watch this video showing how to use it. https://youtu.be/ZlI5PaXsfOk
Seriously, it's easy!
No. V sharpeners like this pull out the carbides in the steel out which means that it will lose its edge very quickly.
You want to use water stones or a guided system like a [Lansky sharpener](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XVE3xbFCDB2TB).
I moved from a straight wetstone to a Lansky awhile back and have enjoyed it.
If you're sharpening a fine, expensive blade, I can't stress enough that you should do it yourself. I used to send my knives out for sharpening with a handful of services, some of which were expensive and had excellent reputations. Sometimes they would come back great, sometimes they would come back absolutely BUTCHERED. One time it looked like they had sharpened it on the machine they used for lawn mower blades.
Anyway, there's no substitute for a good, multi-stone sharpening system. If you've got a lot of commodity blades to go through (like if you run a restaurant kitchen), by all means use a service or use a motorized sharpener like the Work Sharp (I own one and use it regularly).
But if you want the finest edge you can get and you want to really take care of a nice, expensive chef's knife; sharpening in a way that won't mar the appearance or take off too much metal each time (like the Work Sharp is known to do), a multi-stone kit is the way to go.
I've always used the Lanksy kits and absolutely love them. Here's an excellent general-purpose kit: http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4
And don't worry, it's super easy to get the hang of. The guide included will take care of the angle for you, which is the hardest part. And there are short videos out there that detail the process, if you need them.
Their guided sharpening system is commonly referred to here simply as a "lansky." They are one of the least expensive controlled angle systems on the market and work really well for beginners who want to get into sharpening.
I wouldn't recommend using pull-through sharpeners. A set like the Lansky Deluxe or the DMT Aligner would be a better option. They have a easier learning curve than freehand sharpening.
For kitchen knives and pocket knives that are mostly doing slicing or push cutting, I'll aim for 20 dps in general, or if the steel can hold a stable edge at it, around 15-17 dps w/ 20 dps micro-bevel. For cleavers or choppers, something around 25 dps will hold up better. If you can, a convex edge will also hold up better for choppers.
As for the fire steel, don't use the sharpened edge of your knife for that. Use the spine. If the spine isn't squared off enough, use some sandpaper or a Dremel to create a small flat spot you can use for the fire steel.
A 2,500 dollar bike is a bit much, but if you really want to bring an expensive bike on campus, get a nice U-Lock!
This is the best one I've ever used. I have a pretty nice bike, and somebody tried to cut through this lock to get to it once. They only got through the few mm thick outer rubber layer, and then gave up. It's a bitch to cut through this thing.
If you've got the room, the best thing I ever did was ditch my LA membership and purchase a power rack, bench and 300lb Olympic weight set.
I've added a couple accessory items, but that was enough to get going on a power lifting routine and hit the big compound lifts (squat, dead, bench, overhead) for ~$700 or about 2 years of gym memberships as I saw it.
I'm pretty happy with my Powerline PPR200X.
I bought this bench. Although it does it's job, there is a bit of a gap right where your ass should be when in the flat position, which also happens to be the only position I use it in. My solution was to stick a couple of rolled up magazines in the gap, but I would maybe try out a few before buying if I had to do it again.
First off, the beer belly will be one of the last things to go, but adding additional workouts will help to tone muscle as well as to burn additional calories.
Assuming the 8kg barbell is similar to that link where the length is approximately 6ft (2meters).
There is a couple of pieces of equipment you would need to have to make full use of the barbell:
A rack of some sort to hold the barbell, and for an easy place to put the barbell when ending a set. You don't need one this extensive, it is mainly that you need something to put the weight on when done with sets if you want to add bench/incline/decline press. Which leads to the next piece of equipment:
An adjustable bench so that it can be useful for multiple exercises, including, but not limited to bench/incline/decline press.
Probably more weights to add to the barbell as well, since 8kg (~17lbs) is not that much weight once you start lifting for a lot of workouts.
Some basic upper body workouts I would focus on (given that you are running a good bit so I am assuming you are doing both distance and sprints).
If i am not mistaken you are looking for reps of 12-12-10 while trying to increase weights on each set. Generally doing that is for more endurance muscle, while doing less reps is for more explosive muscle if i am not mistaken.
Close Grip Barbell curls
Standing Military Press
I would probably workout 2-3 days a week, doing all that you can. If you want to slightly lower the number of workouts you can alternate one of the curls, and alternate only doing two of the bench/decline/incline presses.
But barring having more weights/a rack I would probably recommend adding burpees in addition to push-ups.
Typically a bench's max weight includes the user. If you're already 270lbs and you're lifting even relatively light weights for your body weight (130+ lbs) you're already at 400 total lbs. Even cheap flat benches can accommodate that weight, but a lot of the integrated bench plus racks can't.
You'll also need to decide between 1" and 2" (Olympic) bars. I've found that cheap 1" bars can even deform dealing with 135 lbs of total weight, so if you're lifting even half your body weight you'll probably want to go towards Olympic if you want stuff that's going to hold up.
So really I think you have some options:
TL;DR Benches max weights describe your weight plus the weight you're benching, so a lot of cheap benches aren't as safe as you might think they are
You haven't mentioned what country which means you're probably American.
If the $550-$600 is meant to include weights, bar & bench then you're going to have to go second hand to get a decent set.
If not then this one for ~$350 is great value. 1000lb capacity so you'll be able to work with it long after you're past Stronglifts. There isn't a big advantage to getting a more expensive one than this.
Here you go
Spyderco Tenacious. My current EDC and one of the most frill free knives I own.
Leatherman sidekick is a great multitool. $45.
For just a knife the Spyderco Tenacious is a fantastic folder for the price at $35.
For a few more dollars you could go with the spyderco tenacious which as far as I can tell is basically just a larger version of the one you picked out.
New York Fahgettaboudit, This is the bike lock I use, its expensive but its pretty much the only lock you'll ever need. Just the look of it alone is enough to make robbers look the other way.
Here's what I do for my Bullitt: One Kryptonite Fuhgeddaboudit (small as you can get), and a set of Pinhead lock set (locking skewers for wheels and locking seat post collar). A slim Tile under the cargo deck sealed with 3M Heavy Duty Packing tape.
With the pinhead lock set, you only need to lock the frame with the Fuhgeddaboudit U-lock (typically I lock at one of the lateral vertical braces parallel to the head tube, or if I have the big cargo box for the kids on the front, will lock around one of the rear seat stays).
Kryptonite Lock: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OZ9VLU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Pinhead lock set: https://smile.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B000XHBKOU/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525893173&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=pinhead+lock
I have a kryptonite fagetaboutit mini for the primary and employ two folding locks on the front a rear to cover the wheels. Usually a multiple lock approach means that many more cuts and will make your bike that much more unattractive to pilfer.
Stay away from any cable solution, they are worthless.
Body-Solid Powerline Power Rack (PPR200X) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VLRVSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VrFvDbXQW3M4D
Titan 6' Technique Olympic Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791NWM3N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gsFvDbDJH4MXE
Titan X-2 Power Rack Dip Bars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WGS73S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
CAP Barbell Olympic 2-Inch Plate Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013SZC8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rUDvDb4QKP220
PROCIRCLE Wood Gymnastic Rings -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0129IIMZA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Harbinger Polypropylene Weight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P0S3XU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
PowerBlock Elite Dumbbell 70lb Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UG4GFA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OsFvDb4T80D8Z
About 500lbs of random plates I got cheap. Most of it was bought used but in good condition. Took me a while because I was really patient so I’d find what I wanted.
I’m pretty happy with all of it. I was most concerned with saving space and getting stuff that had high enough weight capacities. I’m not lifting really heavy weights, so it’s all good for me but might not work for everyone.
I’m considering getting a stand or some matts, or maybe a few kettlebells.
Keep your eyes open for a used squat cage, olympic bar, weight plates and a padded bench. With just those things you can get an excellent workout without taking up a ton of space.
Stay away from that junk.
Plus a bench, a bar, and some weights. Good to go.
A set of Olympic weights, a power cage, a bench and a copy of Starting Strength by Mark Rippetoe. I got all but the book second-hand, so it can be pretty affordable and safe. (All links except book are for illustrative purposes only, not necessarily recommending those specific units)
It looks like a good deal, I have that rack, I like it, it gets the job done. With the money saved you can buy the lat attachment for it.
The Power Rack
The BowFlex Dumbbells and Bench
The weight set with Bar
Get one of these. You won't have to worry about spotters for a long time that way.
I have the SuperBench. It is great. It is a little pricey, but I love the space-saving attachments that you can buy for it. I have the situp, dip and GHD extension.
I have the PowerLine PPR200X Power Rack, which may be better suited to your needs. I know you said that space is a concern, but you get a lot out of this piece of equipment. It comes with a pullup bar and the safety bars adjust easily for squats and bench-related activities. The weight limit is a bit low, but that won't be a problem for a while (in my case, at least). I built a rack plate holder last weekend and now my weights hang conveniently from the back of the rack.
Sometimes the PowerLine PPR200X goes on sale on Amazon for about $377. With this you also get a pull up bar built into it and the ability to add a great pulley system further down the road.
I mulled around getting a half rack for a little while and I am so glad that I opted for a full rack instead. It is very quick to adjust, sturdy, and I love the small foot print it takes up, yet with the pulley system there are so many exercises that you can do. If lifting weights really grabs hold of you, you'll be glad you went with a full rack instead.
Here are the links for the products:
255 lb weight set
A RAT, a Tenacious, an Opinel, or a Cryo are the usual choices. What's wrong with 8cr13mov steel? It's not the best but for sub $30, it'll get the job done.
A better question for r/knives. Depending on your budget, I can make a number of recommendations. If you're not looking to spend a lot, check out Kershaw and some low-end Spyderco models.
I would look at:
I felt the same way before I got a spyderco, now I love the damn thing. The hole is incredibly functional. You might want to try a Tenacious, its only 30 bucks.
I carry two knives a lot of the time. Almost anytime I've not carried one of them I've been in a situation where I needed one.
I carry the swiss army specifically for the opener and toothpick. Swear to god 90% of the time I leave it at home, thinking it's stupid over kill to carry it I end up with something in my teeth or a bottle needs opening.
The other is just a really nice easy to deploy big knife that's great for a lot of things.
I go with this for the following reasons :
might switch to this now that i see exactly what i use it for
For camping, between those two I'd go with the Skyline. I've got a Leek, and I love it, but the slim blade seems a bit delicate for camp site use.
I bought a Spyderco Tenacious for camping. It's a good-sized, sturdy folder that's not so expensive that losing it would ruin the trip.
$40.31 on amazon. Lol.
The Spyderco Tenacious is a great knife for under $50.
Ooh. $25 is tough. There are so many good options for $30-$35...
Here are a couple options around $25
CRKT Ruger LCK
And here are some options around $30
Sanrenmu Land 910+
Steel Will Cutjack 3 Inch and 3.5 inch
Buck 110 Slim
And some $35+ options
My favorite under-50 knife is the Spyderco Tenacious. They make a couple of smaller knives at a similar price point too.
Ontario Rat is another good value - about $25 - good tough knife for outdoor stuff.
Here are some affordable options.
Ontario 8848 RAT Folding Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7ziUub1K4FP48
Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Handle Folding Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EI7578/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OAiUub1JC6EFZ
JETBeam BA10 XPG Cree LED Flashlight, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UG51OK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_pBiUub02WTDZZ
Fenix LD09 130 Lumen LED Tactical Flashlight with EdisonBright AA Alkaline battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MB1MJFA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_YIiUub0M7RSYV
If you are on a budget. I would recommend a Tenacious. Most people on /r/knives would agree as well. If you aren't on a budget I would look at the Benchmade Griptillian or Mini Griptillian. Both are extremely solid choices.
I'm in IT as well and perform very similar tasks. I use the Spyderco Tenacious for everything. It's easy as hell to sharpen and the flat ground blade takes a wicked sharp edge. It has stainless steel liners, but they're skeletonized so the knife is still pretty light. The G-10 is nicer than the stuff I've got on knives that are well past the hundred dollar price point.
As for draw speed, you can do a bootleg wave using zipties. Here's mine. Best $30 I've ever spent.
I'm rather fond of the Spyderco Tenacious.
Save 8 bucks and get the satin blade.
I've EDC'd a Spyderco Tenacious for about a year and I love it. If I had to replace it, I would easily consider another Tenacious, or a slightly smaller Persistence.
Part of me really wants a Leek but I'd also like a Kershaw Blur for the assisted opening, and if you can set aside an extra $20, you can spring for the version w/ S30V steel. All of these are within your price range.
The Ontario RAT1 and [Spyderco Tenacious] (http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578) are great knives in the $30 range that can accomplish all the activities you have listed without an issue.
This list and thread from the sidebar lists many good suggestions as well.
/r/knives is a great place to ask this kind of stuff.
This is a great knife that I EDC and its only $35. Perfect starting knife.
Not trying to be rude, but both are pretty awful. Spend another $20 and get a spyderco tenacious. It will last you years. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EI7578/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504583062&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=spyderco+tenacious&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=21SYwroxw1L&amp;ref=plSrch
Nice progress man!
Make sure not to do ONLY targeted exercises like bicep curls. It looks like your deltoids haven't made as much progress as your biceps. Chin-ups would be great for working out both muscles as well as your lats and others in your back and core. I got one of those chin-up bars that you stick in the door without installing and love it! It literally just takes a second to put up or take down. http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408406055&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=chin+up+bar
And don't forget your chest! If nothing else, throw some push-ups into your routine.
I use the Gold's Gym bar https://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467403066&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gold%27s+gym+pull+up+bar
I just loop it over the handles
I have been working on pull-ups for a while at home with one of those bars that hangs in a doorway. Despite what the product claims, I would not use it for anything other than pull-ups/chin-ups.
This is what I do. I plan to move on to the /r/bodyweightfitness program once I can do more than 2 pull-ups.
Definitely look into body weight exercises. There are a ton you can do at home without any equipment.
Some examples: pushups, planks (for core), dips (on a chair), inverted rows (on a table), body weight squats, lunges, etc.
One piece of equipment you may want to purchase is the Iron Gym pull up bar. It installs easily into most doorframes and won't damage anything. Pull ups are a great exercise for arms/back. Bear in mind that unassisted pull ups are quite hard if you don't have much upper body strength, but you can start out with hangs/negatives and work from there. You can also use the pull up bar for pushups, crunches, and dips too. I know I sound like one of those infomercials but this pull up bar is actually pretty useful. Hope this helps!
This is what I have. I've also seen the same or similar model at places like dicks and target
I don't know what your doorway looks like, but I use an Iron Gym. It does come with a tiny metal hook/clip thing that you have to insert between the top of the door frame and the wall so you don't crash, but it's a very thin piece of metal and you could easily caulk where the clip was if/when you move out (or don't since I doubt anyone under 7 feet tall would notice a thin 1.5 inch long hole in between the moulding and the wall). I like it because I don't have to have my pull-up bar in the doorway permanently, and as far as damage done to the door way is concerned, it's really pretty minimal.
I have a home gym that I built. I have been searching for equipment for a long time that can handle a good amount of weight, and is minimalistic. The pieces of equipment I own are:
$25, no nails required.
From FAQ: https://www.reddit.com/r/bodyweightfitness/wiki/faq
You can hang rings from pullup bar for rows, dips, pullups, holds. And you can dip on tables, chairs, boxes until you get to your ring dips. So you dont really need anything except pullup bar and rings to complete recommended routine.
Also, mountless pullup bars don't leave marks on doors. Alternatively, find a park with monkey bars and use that.
Pocket knife looks like a Kershaw Cryo. Don't know the rest of the stuff though.
Not quite sub $20 but definetely a great knife. Kershaw Cryo.
$22 currently on sale. I've had it for 2 years now. Take it everywhere. She sharpens like new every time.
I'd second that Leek for a small, not-intimidating (unintimidating? nonintimidating? ARE THESE EVEN WORDS?!?!) knife. Other good offerings would be the Spyderco Persistance, the Kershaw Cryo or even, for $12.50 over your budget a Mini-Griptilian- use the coupon codes "nutnfancy" and "BM25" to bring the price down to $62.50 and grant free shipping.
EDIT: Why the fuck didn't my mini-grip link embed properly?
EDIT EDIT: Stole the from the source of the wonderful /u/wags_01's comment to make my link work.
It's the 1555TI Cryo I don't know much about them either, this is my first knife.
Sold directly by Amazon, no known clones.
Was actually one of my first knives, really liked it at the time.
Really slim and light (very easy to carry), RJ Martin design, flipper on washers (becomes much smoother with time), G10 handle and 8Cr13MoV blade.
Few things to remember:
Kershaw Cryo - $21.28 (Reg price: $36.95) and the Kershaw 4KXL - $26.39 (Reg price: $39.99) are also on sale, both sold by Amazon and have free shipping (Cryo on orders over $25).
How do you rate these deals?
I just set up this regulator on my 5.5 and though it's too early to tell if I'll like it long term, it was easy to set up and run and relatively cheap. (Sorry for the full link, I'm on mobile). http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-OF-CALIFORNIA-Regulator-Mini/dp/B008TJCPSY
Get him the Aquatek Mini Regulator:
Assuming you don't want a full-sized scuba/welding tank, most people seem to go with the paintball canister + regulator setup. You can get the paintball canister from most of your sports stores that sell paintball supplies - they generally come in sizes around 20/24oz, but I think I've seen some larger. They run from $20-40, fills ranging around $5 (these are my local Academy Sports prices). The regulator is probably the priciest up front cost - usually around $90. I'm sure there are cheaper and more expensive versions of both of these.
Most people also add a bubble counter - pretty standard, and usually costing less than $5 - and an aerator/atomizer/diffuser (many different names for something that basically "dissolves" the co2 into the water). I haven't found a perfect solution for this yet - I've used fine airstones, ceramic discs, water ladders, and I'm currently using a powered diffuser.
I run a standard 30g tank at 1.5 bubbles per second. My swords and java moss are going crazy, but I've had problems with getting any sort of carpet going (more an issue with my tank parameters than an issue with the co2). I tried the DIY system for a while, but I have to say that I much prefer the high tech method.
One thing I would suggest is to make sure you've got a reliable source of co2 refills. Luckily all of my Academy Sports seem to do refills, but if they weren't an option, there's not a whole lot else around me. People have suggested wielding supply stores and paintball specific shops, but they're rare and randomly placed by me.
I tired a diy Co2 set up a few years ago about the same thing I think you're working out and it was a bitch, I could never get it to work right and I had to manually turn it off and on every day and it turned into to much hassle. I really suggest you go with this. I've been using one since I gave up on the diy and I just got another one for my 55. Having the solenoid really helps, get it dialed in where you need it and have it set to a timer and all you have to do is check the tank for when you have to refill it
Co2 set ups are unfortunately not cheap. The aquatek mini regulator on a paintball canister seems to be a pretty popular choice. You'll need a diffuser, some co2 "proof" hose, and ideally a Co2 indicator as well, but those things are all cheap little addons.
I personally use liquid Co2 instead of pressurized (shrimp tanks, so I dont want to risk suffocating them), so I cant give a first hand recommendation for any particular system. The folks over at /r/plantedtank surely can though.
I wouldn't recommend DIY. Once you start doing it, you'll get tired of changing the solution every couple of weeks and it's not as consistent as pressurized. It's a good solution in a pinch, but you'll definitely want to look into pressurized eventually.
You could find a decent build for ~$100-200. If you get anything <$100, keep in mind that it's priced that low for a reason (cost vs quality).
I'd look into a paintball setup. A 20 oz tank on Amazon is $20. About $5 per fill at Dicks sporting goods (Buy 5 get 1 free or something like that). $15ish for the adapter (you don't need it if you buy a regulator designed for paintball tanks - see: Aquatek mini regulator
In that scenario, it'd cost slightly over $100 for that setup.
As others have mentioned, it will depend on what kind of camping he likes to do and what he already owns, but here are some of my favorite pieces of gear I've picked up over the years:
This little guy is a pretty good rechargeable lantern/flashlight with magnets so you can stick it to stuff and a usb output so you can charge other things with it.
I've had one of these for YEARS and I just lost it the other day. There was $200 worth of gear in the pannier that fell off my bike and I'm more pissed about that cup than the rest of the gear combined. It looks like they made it a little taller, which I do not like, but he may. There are several other brands that make something similar in both steel or titanium. It's not just a cup though...it will slip perfectly over the bottom of a nalgene, you can cook directly on a stove or fire with it, and you can pair it with the smaller jetboil coffee press or the guts of a standard bodum press and turn it into a french press. It's the exact same diameter.
A Sawyer can be an AMAZING if you're going to be anywhere long enough to pack water in. The squeeze bag it comes with sucks, but it has standard bottle threads, so you can screw it into a 2-liter bottle with the bottom cut off and it turns it into a gravity filter. Just pour more river/lake water into the 2 liter every minute or so and it will keep pouring clean water into your bottles. Also, you notice the weird skinny part in the middle? It's exactly the width of duct tape. You can wrap several yards of it around there.
EDIT: forgot some words
Replace the $70 Katadyn filter with a $20 Sawyer filter.
Replace the $60 Petzl with a $20 Wowtac A2.
> I am also looking for a set of hiking poles.
The $30 Monoprice CF poles are considered the best/lightest for the money. You really don't want heavy poles.
> Do I need any other cookware?
Are you planning to actually cook or are you eating trail mix the entire time?
Get a Sawyer filter over the lifestraw. https://www.amazon.ca/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/
You don't have to suck water through, and it's rated for way more water.
Forgot to mention above, I do have a water filter, and was planning on filtering on-the-go as I was camping. Does that change anything?
Uhh.. Since nobody else is helping, I will give it my best shot. On a normal day, the average reccomended amount of water per person will be 64 oz., or .5 gallons. This is a rough estimate for an average person. If you are larger, pack more. If you are smaller, pack less. Depending on the heat, you may end up sweating alot of the water out.
I would reccomend no less than .75 Gallons per person per day.
As far as containers go, something like this would probably be best. I think that stores like walmart have a similar option....
To purify lake water you have several options. There are a multitude of water filters that backpackers use to make drinking water safe. /r/ backpacking raves about this one in particular for its low price, easy use, and low weight. It should filter out bacteria and other nasty things in water.
Alternatively, water purification tablets can be bought to do the same thing. These will not filter out sediment though. They only kill bacteria.
Since this is car camping and the weight/size of gear is not as big of a concern, simply overpacking on water will do no harm. Just keep track of how much you drink as a gauge for next time!
Are you dead set on a Geigerrig filter? They seem awfully expensive for something that will only last 50-100 gallons.
I'd get a sawyer mini - http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2
I'm going deep in to the woods. We are going to stay in awesome hammocks and we will be wrapped in fleece sleeping bags. We will also bring a water filtration system so we can drink from the spring rather than lugging water with us. After all, lugging a cooler or four full of beer and whiskey will be enough of a task for us.
I'm so excited that the weather is getting better that I have super duper camping on my mind. :)
For anyone thinking this is a good buy, please check out the Sawyer Mini. It may cost more, but the Lifestraw filters up to 1,000L. The Sawyer does 360,000L and also filters out more than the Lifestraw. The Sawyer also works with fittings and attachments for hydration bags meaning you can set it up to work as a gravity filter in addition to using it as a straw.
It's better than the the Lifestraw in every single way. I have used both and have no affiliation with either company.
>Is there a good compass or gps you would reccomend?
I'm afraid I'm not a good authority on GPS. I use a DeLorme InReach which is a two-way communicator with GPS ability if tethered to a phone. It's overkill for someone starting out, I wouldn't recommend it unless you've got piles of money burning a hole in your pocket.
As for compasses, I carry a cheap Brunton baseplate compass. Similar to this Silva, but I don't go off trail or crosscountry. More importantly is that you know how to use one. Watch some youtube videos first, figure out if you need a compass that has sights, or if you live in a higher/lower latitude and need something to match your magnetic zone.
Hold off on the GPS and learn how to use a compass and map first. Then if you think it's necessary (or more convenient) step up to a GPS. Remember that maps and compasses don't need batteries.
>How much water is enough water?
General rule is 1 gallon/day, but it varies from person to person, terrain, temperature, etc. If you're in an area with decent water sources, get yourself a Sawyer Mini.
>When deciding where to go in back country do most people just choose a thing and then travel there and back and around or are there trails that people take and camp along?
Choosing a thing and traveling there is called "cross-country hiking" which means hiking off-trail and making your own path. This is allowed in some places and frowned upon at others, depends on how fragile/protected the terrain is. If you're going cross-country, you better be proficient at orienteering.
I'd wager the majority of people hike on trails and camp along the way at established camp sites.
I like this water filter for light weight packs.
Might want to look at [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-Products-SP128-Filtration-System/dp/B00FA2RLX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419254970&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sawyer+mini).
Filters better and filters more:
| Lifestraw | Sawyer Mini
Membrane | 0.2 microns | 0.1 microns (2x better)
Capacity | 264 gallons | 100,000 gallons (378.8x better)
Bacteria | 6 LOG | 7 LOG (10x better)
Bacteria% | 99.9999% | 99.99999% (10x better)
Protozoa | 3 LOG | 6 LOG (1000x better)
Protozoa% | 99.9% | 99.9999% (1000x better)
Price | $19.20 | $19.97 or 4 for $67.51 ($16.88 each)
The mini is also smaller and comes with a 32 oz squeezable water pouch, 7" tube, syringe for cleaning (if it clogs)
&gt;Attaches to included drinking pouch, standard disposable bottles (28 mm thread), hydration packs, or use the straw to drink directly from your water source
Direct link to the single blue filter that's $18.69 w/ Prime shipping: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FA2RLX2/?psc=1
Woot's still a better deal if you're ordering more than one, like OP said, since you only pay the extra $5 once.
I grew up in Louisiana and always had these at the ready in case another Katrina came by. Barebones and lightweight in case you need to get up and move.
Multitool - Something that's sturdy, offers plenty of options, but also is lightweight. If I got washed out, this would be one of the top things I'd want coming with me.
First Aid Kit - You just never know. Water can hide a lot of nasty stuff like sharp metal edges, broken glass, etc. The kit I've linked to also comes with a multitool.
Water Filtration System - Dehydration will get you before anything else. Southern heat combined with physical exertion takes a lot out of anyone and tiny filtration systems like this will take care of you without adding bulk.
Meal Replacement Bars - You'll ideally want a few days emergency food. I recommend meal replacement bars that are high in protein and fiber and no less than 500 calories. They'll provide decent nutrition and should make you feel satiated for at least 2-4 hours. I don't have a recommendation on this one because there are so many brands and flavors.
Hand Crank Lantern - A reliable source of light that you can crank on your own. Generally, I avoid using generators and the like. I'm paranoid about electricity after flooding occurs.
Whistle - Great for alerting people without tearing up your vocal chords. It's also very, very, very good to have in case animals that shouldn't come by are nearby.
Dust Mask - If your city floods, there's going to be a lot of crud that comes up from the sewers and a lot of things accumulating inside buildings. Save your lungs and your noses.
Portable Battery - I love this age of technology we're in. Charge this a few days before the storm hits and you'll be able to keep your phone charged for days if the power goes out.
Insect Repellant - The ample amount of still water after a hurricane is prime bug nesting. A little repellant goes a long way.
Paddle Your Own Canoe by Nick Offerman - Or any book really to help pass the time. This is a fantastic read though. :)
I thought you might like this a Mini Water Filter. Happy tax day
I highly recommend using digital ear protection. I see a ton of gun guys using Howard Leight Impact Sport headsets; they muffle gunshots but allow you to hear the same (or even better, if you turn them up) as normal. You can also double up by using normal earplugs underneath them if you'd prefer.
More like 50 bucks, if its not on sale.
I have 4 pairs of these because I shoot real steel. They work very very well, and they look cool too.
Everyone can recommend you a bunch of items. How much are you wanting to spend?
He probably has hearing protection but if he just has buds, get some howard leight pros for $30. Also there are some generic bore snakes on amazon.
.45 Pistol Boresnake
and Midway has a really nice bag for a good price. They make different variations too if you want to look around.
That's all about $100 but it's a nice bag, ear protection, and some useful cleaning stuff but he'll still need patches and a cleaning kit. The shotgun would honestly be fine with just the bore snake especially if it's a pump at least for the time being unless he shoots a lot. Get something more pistol specific to keep that running nicely.
For the non moblie
Hopefully you've tried contacting your target to ask them about their collections, their uses, stuff they want, and stuff they wouldn't like. Feel free to drop as many Phone Booth references as possible. You should be able to get some ideas.
If you can't find anything specific, the stuff you've mentioned will never go amiss. Some other stuff I could think of:
Taking an introductory gun safety/technique course like the NRA First Steps Pistol course would definitely be a huge help to you. Look for one in your area.
Answers to your questions:
Yeah I've never had issues. Apparently they are set to only magnify voices and stuff, not gunshots, and you can adjust the volume. I think mine sometimes don't seal perfectly over my sunglasses or shooting glasses though.
Relative to other things gun related they are cheap. These are the really popular ones https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Amplification-Electronic-R-01526/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ear+protection&amp;qid=1562612210&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
I got these, and in hindsight I might want something lower profile like the ones above. Sometimes rifle shooting it messes with your cheek weld. I think the main difference is they block more sound: https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Amplification-Electronic-R-01902/dp/B007BGSI5U/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=howard+leight&amp;qid=1562612324&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
Honestly, ear protection isn't incredibly important, but if you really want something that won't break the bank, just get something from Amazon. It won't work with any helmets as far as I'm aware but will fit over a baseball cap and other thin layers.
for the ear pro, get some electronic ones for the outer layer, and you can crank up the volume so you can still hear somewhat. I have these, and they're excellent
if the gun is in mint condition and you want to keep it that way, I'd say get a cheap hard case. I have some cheap ones and some expensive ones, and I'd say there's not much benefit to an expensive case unless you're protecting a delicate optic
as far as I know, any type of gun oil should be sufficient for any rifle.
I removed cosmo from my milsurps by soaking the metal bits in windex, but there are plenty of effective methods. I didn't bother with the wood though so can't help you there
tipton makes excellent cleaning products, I have their .30 cal carbon fiber rod and am satisfied
to avoid rusting during storage, give all the metal parts a light coat of oil before storage, and inspect it every week or two. I've been told that the foam in a hard case will attract moisture, so maybe store it outside the case
Howard Leight hearing protection. You still hear everything but are protected from stupidly loud sounds and it minimizes the pain from the drone. I’ve owned these for 8 years and they’re the best hearing protection/headphones for under $150.
Howard Leight Impact Sport OD Electric Earmuff, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1HUyzbDHM1K6H
To add to this, looks like they're on sale at Amazon for $40. I've been using these for a year and love them.
Personal preference as to what cuts down on the noise for you. I do cheap foam earplugs with a pair of electronic earmuffs on top: http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Impact-Electric-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456847484&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=shooting+ear+protection
On hearing protection, try to get items actually marketed for shooting. Don't just use generic ear plugs, muffs or whatever as they won't block the correct types of sound frequencies efficiently or properly; whilst blocking others.
These are a strong favourite for over-ear muffs around here.
Some people will double these up with some in-ear plugs too.
Yeah they are for comms, adaptive noise cancellation for gunfire and can also amplify ambient sounds.
They aren't expensive either: https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Honeywell-Amplification-Electronic/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ (not the same model as in the picture but I'd assume a similar feature set)
I'd give the Amazon ones a shot, they're like 10% of the price of actual Peltors, and I've never had an issue. I know quite a few guys who shoot with them. Worst comes to worst, Amazon has a good return policy, so you'd only be out the cost of shipping them back.
If shooting indoors, it's a safe bet. .38spl is subsonic, and it's probably fine with just earplugs. .357 is supersonic and it's hard on the ears.
Hearing damage is cumulative, and never goes away. So these days, I try to double-up, or at least wear decent muffs. The mild "eeeeeeee^eeeeee^^eeeeee" never really goes away, and I don't want it to get worse.
For $40 a set of Howard Leigh Impact Sports give great hearing protection and still amplify sound so you can speak without shouting.
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I've owned a set for a little over a year now. I really like both the look and sound of them, and have gotten plenty of positive comments about the sound of the pipes when playing with bandmates.
They're a little louder than regular smallpipes, but not by too much. The decibel meter on my phone has them at 80dB, vs. the 100 dB for my pipe chanter, and ~70-75 dB for my acoustic guitar. I'm not sure how accurate it is, but that should give you an idea.
I don't wear hearing protection with them - although they're probably borderline whether I need to or not. These are what I wear when practicing highland pipes at home. What I like about them is that I can hear just fine for normal conversation, but they'll shut off the microphone for when I'm actually playing, although I'm looking for some musician grade plugs that I can wear to band practice/performances instead of foamies.
Surefire/Peltor are awesome choices.
For over the ear I have a set of Howard Leights. I've use them for personal shooting and on the range, and they're not overly expensive. I bought them for around $45 when they were on sale.
For sure - It's frustrating that a father's legitimate depression is taken less seriously because it doesn't have the same cause as motherhood depression. Fatherhood depression is very real, and very different from just being stressed. Ideally, we would define and treat mental health issues with more accuracy.
As for real support for OP - Of course, my first recommendation is to find a therapist you click with, ideally one trained in cognitive behavioral therapy (CBT). As for quick ideas that may help, I've heard many parents of loud babies swear by electronic ear protection. A baby's cry can reach 130 decibels, enough to permanently damage human hearing! Electronic ear protection works by recording the sounds around you, then playing them into your ear at a safe volume in real time. They're meant for hunters, shooters, and people who work around loud equipment who still want to be able to hear things going on around them. They come as ear muffs or the more expensive ear buds. You'll still be able to hear your wife talking or baby crying, but at a volume that doesn't tell your brain to run away from the situation and enter fight or flight.
BAM These electronic earmuffs are good, but I also use foam ear plugs in conjuntion (call me paranoid). They have stereo microphones with variable volume control. They also have a standard earphone jack, so you can plug your phone into it and listen to music.
Thanks for introducing me to these. Amazon is selling a super slim pair of Howard Leight's for ~$40.
I'll mention them to /u/Zenel92 just in case.
Yup. Mine (and others' including /u/nomofica ) all came from the official authorized seller page on amazon.ca
If you don't already have them, these are pretty handy.
Howard Leight Impact Sport Electric Earmuffs
These will save both your ears and mind.
They are amazing.
Haven't used them with big guns, but the Howard Leight Impact Sports are pretty good.
Just got them, and in the past two times I've gone they're okay. I like doubling up with my in-ears in and the muffs overtop.
Just remember, your hearing isn't going to get any better, so going overkill on protection isn't a terrible thing.
I'd recommend getting some spare magazines. Will make range sessions a lot more productive if you're not constantly stopping to reload your empty magazines.
Downside is Ruger is pretty proud of their SR series magazines, though you can often find the 2 packs on sale somewhere.
Also, get some good shooting glasses and hearing protection. Something with active hearing like the Howard Leight Impact Sports or something along those lines. It attenuates the noise of gunfire, but allows you to hear range commands and converse with instructors or other people on the range.
And you'll need a good range bag to carry the gun, ears, eyes, magazines, ammo, staple gun (for outdoor ranges that don't have retractable target holders) , gun wipes, UpLula magazine loader - trust me on this one, your thumbs will thank you.
I'd get the range bag first, at the very least, if money's a bit tight after the holiday spendathon. You can fill it with the other goodies later.
But I firmly don't believe listening to music is wise when shooting. It's important to be aware of your surroundings.
In a perfect world... too bad they don't make some that blocks sound above a certain db range but still allows you to hear everything else...
Just order these.
Howard Leight Impact Sport OD Electric Earmuff, Green https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M27IzbQ7352RY
I determined a few weeks ago that my knives were too dull and I wanted to sharpen rather than buy new ones. After much research I got this Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System and the Super Sapphire Sharpening Stone to add even more of an edge. I have sharpened 2 really crappy knives (no-name cheap ones from WalMart) with pretty incredible results. They are much, much sharper than new.
The system is very easy to use and ensures that you keep the same angle at all times. the one knife was very very dull and it took about an hour to get it to a point where I felt it was sufficiently sharp. Both knives I have sharpened with this system can easily pass the magazine paper test and can very easily shave hair off my arm.
If you like the look there is a Chronograph version with a 41mm (vs the 37mm here) case.
Edit: just realized you actually want the smaller version. Oh well, maybe someone else was wondering about a bigger face version.
Wow, some of those Vostoks were great looking, but not the style I am looking for currently. Thanks for the suggestion though!
After browsing for a bit more, I actually came across this watch. Aside from cosmetic differences, are there any significant differences between this Citizen and the BM8180 I had posted previously?
The only reason I am leaning towards Citizen is that the low maintenance Eco-Drive seems less intimidating for a newcomer like me.
There are a lot of different models from Shinola, perhaps you know of a specific model, or features that he is interested in?
There are bound to be other brands that sell something similar, and possibly for a lot less. Like this Citizen
I know that no one would ever buy me a watch as a gift and get it right. Even if you did decide to get a Shinola, you run a very likely risk that you will pick a model that he doesn't like.
Buying a watch as a gift almost always fails.
This is the one I have, and I really enjoy it. Bonus: it's solar powered.
I think you could find good citizen Eco Drive that has similar function as PRC200 : http://www.amazon.com/Citizen-AT0200-05E-Eco-Drive-Chronograph-Canvas/dp/B000EQR6H0/ref=sr_1_6?s=watches&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1335766853&amp;sr=1-6
Or a Seiko Kinetic
Another option for quartz since you were looking at PRC200, is Orient TT0Z001B Limited Edition STI Ion Plated chronograph.
The Orient used to give out 50% off coupon but they don't do that anymore just 30%.. so $440 retail, 50% would have been $220.
For what you get, I think it's good deal at $170. 5 left until sold out. 4 left.
If you want an automatic mechanical watch, I would suggest Orient Mako, Seiko 5 series, or Sea-Gull watch.
I have that Seiko SNZG13 and it's great on my wrist. I think for smaller wrist, you should look at 38mm~42mm. I have a 43mm watch and the lugs hover over my wrist. I have two 41mm watches that I wear most frequently and those are Orient and Seiko SNZG13.
I'm getting this Sea-Gull next. For the price this is a beautiful piece with classic roman numeral dial with blue hands. I have a cheap Parnis with ST-25 but the movement is just dead accurate. More so accurate than my Orient and Seiko 7s26. I'd say accuracy is Sea-Gull>Orient>7s26 in this order with Seiko being most elusive sometimes. Plus with Sea-Gull automatic, you get the movement that you can hand wind as well as hack. So all in all the Sea-Gull may be your best bet at EXACTLY $120. You'll get a penny back.
Hope it helped.
Enjoying breakfast and a cup of coffee with my buddy today in Downtown LA and spotted his daily beater. Asked him if I could take a pic and post it here, so I dressed the shot up a bit. :)
Details on the watch:
Info on Eco-Drive:
> One pivotal technological breakthrough was the development of a light-driven watch. CITIZEN pioneered this engineering innovation well ahead of other watch manufacturers as early as 1976, which led to the launch of the highly acclaimed Eco-Drive in 1995. Utilizing electrical power converted from virtually any light source, this extraordinary innovation changed forever the way watches could be powered. Eco-Drive eliminated the need to ever replace batteries, which made it especially beneficial to areas where such specialist batteries were not obtainable. This leveled the field for citizens of virtually every country to be able to experience unrestricted joy of wearing and using a CITIZEN watch.
He got it for around $200. Found it on Amazon for about $170.
I've worn the following for 8 years and it hasn't given me any problems: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EQR6H0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
39mm, and fairly legible. Was my daily driver for 7 of those 8 years.
I picked this up for $27 or so a few months ago when Target had a sale.
G-shock DW5600E-1V Men's Black Resin Sport Watch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GAYQKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oFsGAb5EFVXXT
I’m going to throw in a really short watch guide.
I love watches. Mainly because I like knowing what time it is at all times, but also because the engineering behind how an automatic watch works is cool (skip to 5 minutes in).
This is a really subjective topic since everyone has different tastes, but here are a few rules of thumb I follow.
First, really big watches look fucking stupid. Unless your wrists are more than 8”, the max diameter on a watch face should be 40mm. More specifically, the watch face should not be wider than your wrist. Part of the reason they look stupid is because they make your wrists look tiny and like a little kid wearing daddy’s watch [see the first post in this thread] (https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=262970).
Second, really complicated watches (that are not chronographs) look fucking stupid. For example, see anything from Diesel. This is my preference, but I value…you know…actually being able to read it.
Third, and most importantly, if you’re willing to risk the manufacturer warranty for a third-party seller warranty (usually 1-2 yrs), you will save a shitload of money (30%-75%) buying watches on the grey market. For example, an Omega Speedmaster which is basically the posterchild watch for r/watches is $3,500 marked down from $5,250. I picked up my dress watch for about 65% off from a grey market dealer and it’s running fine. If you aren’t into spending a few grand on a watch, you’ll still get commensurate savings (e.g., $300 watches marked down to $150).
Fourth, do not under any circumstances buy a fucking gold or rose gold-plated watch. If it’s not gold or a real precious metal, buy stainless steel. Over enough time that shit will flake off and look terrible. Also, don’t buy gold unless you’re in the mafia.
Fifth, the watch you’re wearing should match its purpose/function.
When I’m working out in the yard or in my workshop, I wear a GShock . They are indestructible, and if you become the first person to break one, you’re out maybe $50. The strap, however, probably will wear out. I wear this watch 90% of the time when I’m not at work.
If you work in an office, consider picking up a nice automatic watch like the bambino. They have a bunch of different options. You can get one on the grey market for about $150. In terms of price-to-value ratio, you will not find a better automatic dress watch.
EDIT: Shit, I forgot two other points.
This is my beat-around watch.
I love it:
This G-Shock is "the classic" most well known G-Shock and fits smaller wrists very well. Most G-shocks are big, but any one where the band comes up closer to the body than in yours (where the strap / case kind of flow together in this long way) will fit your wrist better.
Depending on what your price range is, the G-Shock is the best "tough" watch out there for the most part. Pro-Treks too but they're usually bigger. Suunto is good too but a little spendier and also usually bigger.
PS - your thread will probably get locked because we have a sticky for recommendations.
Unless your boyfriend is a watch geek he likely just means that he wants a g shock square, and not the specific model. There are lots of different models and colors. Just google g shock squares.
This is the standard model. If your boyfriend is interested technology you have one that is solar powered and syncs with an atomic clock via radio signals, my personal favorite.
A classic, very durable
This doesn't really help, but i'm guessing it is a JDM model. So if you are located anywhere outside of Japan, it will be much more rare and expensive than the regular 5600s.
G-Shock DW5600 is $8 over budget but I have seen it as low as $41. Everyone needs a G-Shock.
here is a direct link for you
If you just need something functional, I'd get a Casio G-Shock. This model is pretty popular on this sub. It's one of their less big models.
G-shock GWM5610 (as well as many other g-shocks) has a countdown feature by the minute and multiple alarms that you can set to a specific time. With that being said, it's got a bunch of other features such as atomic syncing and timezones that may be unnecessary to your needs so if you want something cheaper, the DW5600 is also available with the features that you requested.
There are countdown timers for some Timex digital watches too!
Look into the Expedition and Ironman lines!
Casio DW-5600E. It is very well made and durable, and it has the exact features (time/date, stopwatch, countdown timer, alarm, and illumination) I want in a watch, without any extras I won't use that are just annoying. Half the military uses this watch, it's literally perfect.
Hey! not in the CAF but a huge watch nerd.
The Casio GD350-1B is a pretty good choice. It's a G-shock and has pretty much every feature you need (Countdown, timezone, calendar, stopwatch). The unique thing about this model is that it has a silent vibration alarm and a negative display.
The Casio F-91W It does lake some features but its probably one of the most well-known, cheap, and reliable Casio watch out there. It's really light, pretty much not noticeable, and is almost impossible to break.
The Casio G-Shock DW5600E-1V is a really cheap but it still packs bunch of features and it is durable. I guess this is the middle between the GD 350 and the F-91.
There are bunch of really good and durable watches out there, these are just some of my personal favourites. They are not only reliable, durable, and good watches, they look really nice too.
Have you looked at the G-Shock series at all? I understand you're into a minimal approach but as someone who has used multiple G-Shocks in combat that they're pretty much the most reliable watches I've used thus far.
My personal favorite G-Shock G5600KG-3CR. I also I have a DW5600E-1V thats lasted for a long time.
While the W lines are not bad at all, they're a bit more flimsy than the G-Shock series. I owned a F91W (in the super fashionable silver) and the band clasp became unusable after multiple pulls on it by accident (again all while deployed overseas and out in the field). I switch to a G-Shock with a more reliable rubber band and would prefer it any day.
All in all you're basically going to get what you pay for. Unless you live a very safe and easy life, some sort of desk job I'd imagine, where risk is minimal, the W series watches and lower-lower-end references wont last very long in other circumstances.
Most really rugged watches will be durable, like a Casio G-Shock. The Casio DW-5600 is excellent for that. I'll make a list of some other options!
Orient Bambino ~$130-$200
Seiko SARB035 ~$400
Citizen Eco-Drive AW1236-03A ~$100
Cadio G-Shock DW-5600 ~$50
Casio G-Shock GA100A-7A ~$70
Victorinox 241675 ~$150
Casio F91W ~$10
Casio "World Time" ~$25
Timex Marathon ~$15-$20
Entry Level Mechanical-
Seiko SNK809 ~$60-$75
Orient Mako II ~$150
Invicta Pro-Diver (Submariner Homage) ~$80
Timex Weekender ~$20-$30
Timex Expedition ~$50
Casio "Duro" MDV-106 ~$45
I know you said you hate G-shocks but it sounds like a G-Shock would be perfect for you.
Just curious, many people think of the big chunky g-shocks and don't like those. Do you also dislike the thinner ones? Here's one in black and white. I know someone who actually owns this white one and it looks thin, can take a beating, and goes with a lot of casual wear nicely.
This is what I'd buy personally. Can't go wrong with gshock.
Are there specific features you're looking for in the watch? I just bought a basic G-Shock for $40 on amazon, the DW5600E-1V.
Consider a classic G-Shock. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GAYQKY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1420007250&amp;sr=8-2&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41sBqppc-uL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41sBqppc-uL&amp;ref=plSrch
I have yet to find a more durable watch.
There is nothing cheap or shitty about this lock and even the less intense locks are pretty damn solid and could easily be compared to locks twice their price.
This is a nice mini u lock
How big of a lock would you need?
I'm a fan of the Kryptonite New York series personally. They're super heavy duty...I can't imagine cutting through one...There's a 4x8 and a 4x10.25
I use the 4x8 to lock my frame and back wheel, and one of these bad boys to lock my front wheel to the frame.
It's overkill...I know...but I'm in New York.
Amazon is actually very reasonably priced on all of those by the way...if you're looking to order online.
As someone who has gotten a bike stolen I cannot recommend this u-lock strong enough. I have a pretty expensive road bike, and using two of these has keep me safe ALL this semester. HIGHLY recommend. The only con is that these u locks are heavy--they're built like bricks though. Don't skimp out on the locks--you'll regret it. Also, remember to lock your wheel and frame to the bike stand, and to lock your back wheel to the frame. Sometimes they'll simply take your wheel so don't risk it!
good questions. this mini u-lock combined with a cable [to secure front wheel, too] is what is now used by most who are serious about securing their ride.
and these two rack designs are typically preferred in the u.s.:
new york city rack - nyc is making this their "city approved" rack after a thorough design contest. bikes can lean against it to be stable; can lock the front, rear, and frame easily; and it looks very clean from a design standpoint
typical "u" tube: these are found a lot and function very similar to the nyc rack. aesthetically they're not as nice but a lot cheaper and good function. you can see how the yellow bike can secure both wheels and the frame.
btw - what country?
Look into the Kryptonite Evo Mini or Fahgettaboutit mini U-locks. They're about as small and light as they come without compromising security or getting a lock designed for a chain.
In that case, nothing less than this:
If it's a really nice bike people -will- strip the parts off it, in five minutes with some hex keys your shifters, rear derailleur, etc can be gone. In a Shimano component world I wouldn't lock any new model bike with better than Deore (MTB) or 105 (Road) components in public. For SRAM, not better than X7...
Moved from a suburb (where I could have left the bike unlocked in the back of a truck for 2 hours without a worry in the world) to a city for work. Brought the Giant Escape 2 my Dad had given to me, but only had a cheap cable lock and hadn't been given access to my work's bike cage yet.
3rd day of training, my start group and I were headed to happy hour. I walked outside and the bike was gone from the rack outside the office.
I was able to look at the security footage; some dude literally walked up, cut the lock discreetly, and walked away like it was his.
Filed a police report, and went to happy hour. Then I bought the Escape 3 and a Kryptonite U-lock and didn't bring the bike to work until I had bike cage access.
I went all out and got the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit:
This lock is small, but JUST the right size to lock your bike, with no room for anything to get in to pry it. It's a very solid lock.
It's worth noting here that all kryptonite locks are not made equal. this $75 mini is going to be far more secure.
Let's be real here....locks are only deterrents for honest people. If someone wants your bike, they'll find a way...
But to OP...if you want to make it a damn tough job to get your bike, invest in one of these...
Your lock is only as strong as the weakest link so don't skimp on anything else if you're going to get this..I've held it in person it is pretty heavy...I'd say a good 4 or 5 pounds even though Amazon says 1...it's definitely not only a pound. But there's no way you're going to cut that off with boltcutters, you'd need an angle grinder. Keep that in mind if you're going to get it.
>it had Pull-up and I don't have a bar.
you'll need some equipment but I've found this the best routine.. 1-2 times a week.. Equipment needed: [ab wheel] (http://www.amazon.com/Valeo-VA2413RE-AB-WHEEL/dp/B0007IS74G/ref=cm_lmf_img_1/188-3572292-4587120), [pull up bar] (http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413729157&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pull-up+bars) & [resistance band] (http://www.amazon.com/Black-Mountain-Products--Pounds-Resistance/dp/7245456267/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413729205&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=resistance+bands)
If you have a door frame you can buy a pull up bar. No need to mount or anything, it just hinges on the door frame.
And then you can buy rings and attach them to that pull up bar.
And now you can do all kinds of pull ups and push ups.
You could try this one. Or if you want something a bit cheaper try this one here.
http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_1?s=exercise-and-fitness&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414037911&amp;sr=1-1. this shit right here is good shit
Iron Gym: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K
Not that I can think of. But you can get a pullup bar that hangs in your doorframe for pretty cheap.
I like the Iron Gym Pull Up Bar on Amazon, works great for me and seems pretty durable so far. Just make sure it will fit your doorway and wont damage the door frame!
fits most doorways
You've come so, so far already. Congrats on that! Things that I might consider if I were you:
Don't try too many things at once, and be patient. So much easier said than done, I know.
There are many variations, but you need to hang on something. Figure out a way, depending on what your living arrangements are. You can attach a pull up bar to a doorframe. You can hang from the door frame itself. You can find a tree or monkey bars or ledge of some kind outside.
Once you've found something to hang on, it'd be best to attach something to it. Hangboards, rock rings, pull up bar, homemade contraption. The device is not important, but preferably you can grip it in different ways. Open hand, sloper, two finger, crimp, side pull, etc.
Step three is to do pull ups, hangs, lock offs, and levers. Google hangboard workout and you'll find something. Use a chair if you need to reduce your weight, wear a backpack to increase it. Work out 3 times a week or so.
All the other fitness stuff you can do is great, but won't help your climbing as much as this. You have to hang, and you have to pull. This will keep in you decent shape.
The above can be modified to make it more climber friendly. You can make your own one of these: http://www.blankslateclimbing.com/shop/item/blank-slate/
Or you could hang some rock rings.
Half a hour a day is plenty, but you really need a pullup bar (buy a bar like this instead of the pressure-type, it won't ruin your door and it's just as cheap).
Alternate one day when you do a push progression (ex: HSPU) + a pull progression (ex: pullup), one day when you do a core progression (ex: toe-to-bar lift) + a leg progression (ex: pistol squat), and one rest day. 3 sets for each progression. This should fit into the 30min. Skip the warmup , the body drills and the mobility exercises. If you are afraid of working out without warmp up keep it to a minimum (like 2 minutes jumping rope).
If you discover that the above suggestion doesn't fit into the 30 min (for example because you need too much rest time between sets), try something even simpler: one day push progression, one day pull progression, one day leg progression, repeat for other three days, and then take one rest day. Core will still be trained effectively.
We got it on amazon a few years ago. Looks like they still have it and it's on sale http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=lp_3408471_1_1?s=exercise-and-fitness&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451776747&amp;sr=1-1
Not an expert, so take these comments with many grains of salt.
Taking these things together, I would say that if you have no pullup bar, skip the pullup + dip pair, and just do rows, pushups, squats, and L-sit until you can get yourself a pullup bar. This has you doing one push and one pull exercise.
This pullup bar will be like 30-35$ after shipping + taxes. Skip the daily starbucks coffee for a week or two and you can afford to buy the pullup bar.
The bar is probably the Iron Gym one, I was thinking about buying one today. I'm curious about the rings though, I was considering building my own dip bars but if the rings work just as well for $40 I'm going to spring for those. I'll edit my comment if I find the rings.
Pull-up Bar ($23.99):
Pull Up Bar
I'm using these to replace pull-ups. I have a set of weights, but I can't use something like this because my ceiling is too low (I'm doing P90X in the basement)
Here it is on Amazon. I'm not sure what you mean by weird three piece thing... but I'm guessing it's that because there were three pieces that needed to be assembled.
I'm 17 so I built my set up knowing I'd have limited space and even more limited funding. For building your own gym the most important thing to remember is that there are tons of people out there who have given up on exercising and have unused equipment lying around. You can take advantage of this by checking craigslist and helping other people reclaim space in their garages.
Remember, your body is an organic system, it doesn't care about the condition of equipment, as long as provides resistance and is safe. That is to say, new weights at Dick's will run you $0.89/lb, potentially lightly rusted weights will run you $0.40 or even less on craigslist. They go fast though, so jump on a deal if you see it and refresh a few times each day. I 250lbs worth of dumbells + a storage rack for $150 a couple days ago. In my area, that's a steal.
Craigslist also graced me with a 4 month old Bowflex Blaze for $150. 79 exercises and about 24 sq. feet taken up by its footprint. I'll take that ratio. The Blaze has a flat bench that can be set to a 45 degree incline for lifting even without the bows. Dips can be done off the side of the bench, toe-raises can be done off of the supporting floor bars. The Blaze is a monster tool. If you're going after a Bowflex (they're the safest apparatus if you're working out solo) I'd keep an eye out for the Revolutions. They run a bit higher but they use real weights and are supposed to be pretty spectacular.
Other than that I bought one of these for pullups in a doorway, and just picked up a speed jump rope for $4/free shipping on Amazon. Cheap cardio. If you've got some more cash though you can pick up almost any common exercise machine for ~$80 on craigslist. Bikes/Treadmills especially.
If you're into the protein/supplements thing give Netnutri.com a look. I have yet to find a cheaper place to buy (60% off retail) and they have an enormous selection with fast shipping. From the research I've done (my uncle co-founded the Taro drug company, he knows his shit, and I've done a ton of anecdotal reading on the bodybuilding.com forums) the best protein available is the Optimum Nutrition Pro, which packs 60g/serving with a mess of aminos. The best creatine supplement is Gaspari Nutrition's SizeOn. And the best nitric oxide is Gaspari Nutrition's Superpump250. My uncle says there isn't nearly so much credible research backing nitric oxide as the other two, and my family doctor advises against using it because it quickly dilates your veins, which means sudden lower blood pressure, which can lead to a heart attack. Both endorse protein and creatine though. Creatine has also been credibly linked to increased mental capability. Can't go wrong with fish oil for brains and joints and a solid muti vitamin either. ;)
Make your body straight and stiff as a board (or plank) and hold yourself up off the ground.
Here is a great explanation: http://www.abs-exercise-advice.com/plank.html
You could get one of these pull-up bars to work those lats, arms, and back better at home. You can even hang and get some core workouts in by lifting your legs. Cheap and very useful.
You absolutely can bike for 30 minutes instead of walking daily! That's probably better than my 2 x 1mile walks, actually. Keeping that heart rate up for 30 minutes daily will REALLY help your metabolism.
Be very strict about your diet and workouts. Force yourself to hit that bike daily and get those workouts in. Also, try to stay active at least one day on the weekend. You can do this shit, man! You don't have to eat like a rabbit on keto, just NO CARBS. You are the only one you can count on to shed that weight... nobody else will help you. STAY DISCIPLINED! Even when the office has donuts, pizza, etc... don't give in with "just one".
YOU GOT THIS!
Yea, it has a lot of different positions and you can take it off easily and set it on the ground so that you can go down as far as possible, pretty much. This is it and you can get it at target for like $30. It's convenient, more convenient than the ones you have to screw into your door frame, unless you don't have any door jams for it to hook onto.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "one"
Here is link number 2 - Previous text "one"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
You are not misunderstanding me and the
capssleeves on the end of many weightlifting bars spin independently of the bar to avoid torque on the wrists.
>Q:how easily do the sleeves spin?
>A:Very smooth and spins longer than a not-so-cheap Rogue bar I have.
I could upload a video of my bar sleeves spinning if you still doubt me.
I can't agree more with your gym sentiments. Walking through a sea of resting bitch faces at the gym just to see that two people were already waiting for the squat rack tended to ruin my somewhat fragile motivation.
I would recommend against the FT2, having an enforced straight up and down bar path will not help your form and will make your workout less effective for your core/stabilizing muscles. If you're thinking you want something safe for home workouts alone, you can still do that with a free weight barbell setup, spotter arms are wonderful thing.
I haven't tried that many options, but I can tell you what is working for me. I got the titan T3 squat rack and I love it. I highly recommend the spotter arms, I try for bench personal records all the time by myself and I've never had issues when I failed. This rack is stable enough for pull ups but you don't have to screw it to the floor to install. I did have to take off both the weight storage arms so that the plates on the storage arms didn't impede my bench press. http://www.titan.fitness/cages-and-racks/squat-rack.html
For the barbell I got the CAP OB-86B, it's reasonably priced and I'm not doing anything too fancy with the olympic lifts. I expect to get another, better bar and keep it as a beater bar eventually. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001K4OPY2
My plates are a mix, I recommend getting some bumper plates off craigslist or a local shop to get started then adding bumper and iron plates as needed. Another option is to get the $300 iron set from Dick's as a starting set, but from what I've heard the bar is fit only to trash/resell. http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/fitness-gear-300-lb-olympic-weight-set-16fgeu300lbstwth7brb/16fgeu300lbstwth7brb
For bench I'd recommend getting something strong and adjustable. I got the flat Adidas bench and it's fine, though I now want an adjustable bench so I can do incline/decline. https://www.amazon.com/adidas-Performance-Flat-Training-Bench/dp/B00WHIG6X8
Appropriate flooring, resistence bands, and dumbbells are also incredibly helpful.
This cap barbell is generally considered an all around decent bar and its cheap.
Peraonally i recommend the rogue ohip power bar for all purpose lifting.
For olympic lifts ive heard great things about the rouge ohio bar.
>Is a cheap $300 300lbs Olympic Weight Set and $250 Power Rack a waste of money?
Absolutely not! I find this sub hilarious sometimes with people spending a small fortune at Rogue so they can deadlift 225lbs in their garage. I went even cheaper than you, I have these, a 300lb cast iron set, some more weights and a bench off kijiji and I'm just now upgrading my bar to this for Christmas. Unless you're planning to set some world records what you're looking at will most likely last longer than you do.
If you want to save money, go the Craigslist route.
For new stuff?
The best "cheap" barbell is the CAP Barbell's OB-86B. Anything cheaper and you run the risk of getting a shitty, rusted out bar that will fall apart as soon as you put more than 100lbs on it.
As for weights? The cheapest are CAP's 300 lb Olympic weight sets. They weights are crappy, and you may have to file down the holes so it doesn't scrape you bar, but it's the cheapest you'll find brand new. Take the shitty bar that comes with it and sell it on Craigslist for like $50 (if it doesn't arrive already broken).
I've heard mixed things about the Titan rack, but it's probably the best of the budget racks. Supposedly, the quality is improving.
lol didn't know it was a low quality bar. it was my fave and allowed me to lift the most on all lifts... just due to the diameter...I would actually wait until someone was done just to use that bar because I didn't like any of the other bars....
I am considering this bar http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001K4OPY2
it has good reviews on bodybuilding.com forums and all over online... my needs are just a 28mm 45lb standard men's bar... for squat, deadlift, bench and press.... I'm a small female but have no need for a womens bar since i won't be doing snatches and jerks.... i doubt i will be going over 3 plates on deadlift... only deadlifting 200 lbs at the moment... so not that strong... genetic potential is probably like 280 max.... I just want a basic olympic bar with a 28mm diameter.... other than that not picky.
I've lifted with a mens bar all my gymlife and its fine... tried a womans bar once and don't have a need for one.
This is the one I have at home right now. I got it about 7 months ago and it's been working great for me.
The absolute best bar I ever used was an Eleiko Weightlifting Competition bar. So nice. Extremely pricey though($1000+).
> Nice buy.
> Are you planning on taking steel wool to the bars and cleaning them up? I'd like to see some pics if you do that.
I just bought a new bar before getting this haul. My old bar was pretty much the same as this one and I had issues with the bar being balanced; they're technically the cheap ones that come with a set. So I put a few bucks into a new one. So far well worth it.
I do not plan on cleaning them up too much. But steel wool is a good idea, but I have other plans for the bars. The list includes the following ideas.
Electronic ear muffs, like these are well worth the expense.
They allow hearing of regular noises (such as range officer orders or a deer sneaking along) but cut out on gunfire.
Electronic muffs. Google for reviews. These are said to be, while not the absolute best, very good and amazing value for the money:
Good deal if you need a two pack, singularly they are $47.
You should invest in a pair of Howard Leight Impact Sport headphones. They're normally used on gun ranges and allow for hearing protection while making range commands perfectly audible by amplifying sounds below 80 dB and deadening any sounds which exceed 80dB. They have built-in directional microphones and adjustable volume. I wear mine every time I drum, and I can't imagine ever trying anything else again.
These are stereo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001T7QJ9O/
Lots of people use them on ranges. Never seen anything like them in these videos though.
I have the same helmet and goggles from Evike. I use a gen1 mesh mask. Since it doesn't protect your ears, I use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001T7QJ9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398291154&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
I just tried on my buddies gen2 mask with the helmet and it fits great. Since you already have that mask, you don't need to spend $50 on ear pro and gen1 mask.
I have a pair that were $50 on Amazon. They block any ThunderB or loud GBB noises but also amplify speech and snaller noises. Plus there's a headphone jack if you want to listen to tunes while shooting fools. They're OD with a leather-y band on them.
Howard Leight R-01526 Impact Sport Electronic Earmuff
Palmetto has free shipping right now. This means they may have raised some prices on certain things so check the price histories over the last few months if possible. The absolute cheapest way is to build yourself. As in buying all of the parts, not just a complete upper and complete lower. Sometimes this can be pretty negligible, though. The way to ultimately build it cheaper by buying piece by piece would be to do it over time, where you opportunistically look for the best deals. I tried to piece together one for you below. It is cheaper than a ptac and blackhawk! build from palmetto, but not by more than 30-50$. But you have more options, can spread out the cost, and you will know the system and how it works much better.
lower parts kit 35$
Buffer tube/ stock assembly 27$. check around for Sportsmansguide coupons
Blem upper 41$ plus 10$ flat rate shipping. You could combine your magazine purchases from Cope's with the shipping on the upper.
like this 8$ GI mag or this deal for 10 pmags for 107$.
Bolt Carrier Group 80$
Gas Block 17$
Gas tube 13$
forward assist 16$. You may could find this for a few dollars cheaper elsewhere.
Ejection port assembly 9$
free float quadrail 22$ or regular m4 handguards 19$ but you would need this [9$ delta ring]. or the Magpul MOE handguard for 28$
(http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/dpms-ar-15-m16-delta-pack.aspx?a=369258) to go with it.
Bear Creek Barrel, 16" 70$ plus shipping.
Reliable red dot, TRS 25 for 80$ shipped.
and/or iron sights A2 front 18$
Rear sight 22$
So after FFL transfer on the lower (10-30$ depending on location) and shipping on everything you are looking at between 460$ with iron sights, quad rail, and a mag or around 550$ with a red dot and multiple mags.
Cheapest ammo. and at Sportsmansguide where you could ship it with some of the other stuff and potentially use some of their coupons.
you might want to pick one of these wrenches up at 18$ to do the installs.
I know you might only be beating Palmetto prices by around 50-100$, but if you really are on a budget that could make a difference. These prices aren't the very lowest I've ever seen, but they are some of the best I could find in about 5-10min of looking around. Plus, you get the added benefit of buying your rifle in parts, which could help with your budget limitations, and also, more importantly, you can be really familiar with your firearm and its components.
Primary Arms MD-RGBII + Primary Arms Micro Dot Base Mount = ~$120
Sig Sauer Romeo5 (OOS online but sold in-store and can still be found for $129 online) = ~$120 - $129
Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 + .83 Height Riser = ~$64
You can also wait for the Memorial Day sales.
the one I linked above is exactly the same thing without evike's stupid engraving and $15USD cheaper.
those sights are 'disposable commodity' sights, prone to losing zero when bumped, or even just switching the reticule mode (not that it matters, since they have absurd amounts of paralax for a red dot) but they project a nice big dot/cross/whatever in the rough direction of where you need to shoot.
it might serve you well, or you might find it unbearable. I personally have a continually worsening astigmatism which causes lower quality red dots to look less sharp/'starburst', causing me to look into the lower end of the 'real steel' sight market such as this Bushnell TRS-25 at $80 USD.
since its only $20, buy the NC-star clone red-dot, and determine if it works for you, if it doesn't, look into a Bushnell or a Primary Arms dot instead.
Shockwave 12 ga.: https://www.gunbuyer.com/catalog/product/view/id/104487/s/mossberg-590-shockwave-12ga-pump-action-14-barrel-6rd/
Shockwave 20 ga: https://palmettostatearmory.com/mossberg-590-shockwave-20ga-shotgun-50657.html?avad=211021_d13cbc985&utm_source=Avantlink&utm_medium=Referral&utm_campaign=cl
This one is pretty nice, but it's pretty much at the end of your budget. Bushnell Scope
Bushnell Trophy TRS-25 Red Dot Sight Riflescope, 1x25mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00200E0HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Qjl7Cb0ZCKE0W
Here brotha. I know PSA had them on a sale for around 68 after shipping. I don't know if the sale is still going though.
Even a simple lateral move would be so much better.
Take the Bushnell trs-25.
It's $56 every day on Amazon, and comes down to $43 from time to time.
There are two different models,
They are considered the minimum viable for reliable, durable, and cheap, plus sport an ultra long battery life.
the bushnell trs-25 is often on sale for less than 70
and you could probably put a dent into a streamlight tlr-1s
Just run irons for now man, buy a KNS front sight post (I use the .052 dot post but for precision work the inverted V is pretty awesome) and just save the money to put towards your ACOG.
If you are completely opposed to using irons for now, there are a few mid range red dots but they are all battery operated, I am currently using a Bushnell TRS-25 because it has around 128 days battery life on a medium setting. I keep about 1.5 years worth of batteries in my MOE+ grip.
If you are absolutely opposed to a red dot with batteries, the Meprolight is the lowest priced non-battery operated optic that I am aware of.
I just ordered my second Bushnell trs-25 for $69 from PSA they are a good red dot and I also ordered PSA aluminum BUIS for $69 I haven't heard anything about them on here but they were on sale so I figured I'd give them a try.
Bushnell Trophy Red Dot TRS-25 3 MOA Red Dot Reticle Riflescope, 1x25mm (Matte),Colors May Vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00200E0HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YJbqybDBPCADJ
Just got this one in the mail 2 weeks ago. Works amazing, the Dot is visible even in intense sun, adjustable brightness, and only $20 over your budget.
The no-rise version of the TRS-25 is
currently $39 on Amazonno longer the price I was seeing...
You'll often see the TRS-25s on sale for $35-$40 ish (I grabbed one last week @ $35 for my new 9mm upper). Add in a .83" riser for ~$10 and you're still ahead of buying the taller version.
I just bought this Bushnell. It is a great little red dot, and tough as hell.
I also bought this cheap riser mount because I was putting it on at AR.
I have one and love it. They’re currently $44 on Amazon. It probably has the best quality/price ratio out there.
Got mine for $90 on Amazon. This one, still the one I use today. I have nothing else. http://www.amazon.com/Stamina-50-1690-1690-Power-Tower/dp/B002Y2SUU4
I wish I had known about that one earlier.
I went with a: Stamina 1690 Power Tower
Couple foamy spots for the different push-up hand placements. Also has bars for Dips if you aren’t at Ring Dips level.
Yours might be better to take down and stow. Mine... not so much.
This looks exactly like the stamina 1690 power tower, there are over 1000 reviews for it on amazon.
I have this.
Even the kind you don't have to screw in can damage your door frame. If you're really worried about it, you could try a pull-up stand like this.
That being said, I have this pull-up bar and it works for me and hasn't damaged my door frames yet.
If you have a little space (garage or something) I suggest getting something like this:
I find the doorway ones very limiting because you are stuck with close grip and unless you are short you need to bend your knees a ton to not hit the floor.
Bonus for the one I linked, it lets you do dips.
Thinking of buying one of those all in one bodyweight work out stations to get boogaloo ready (and by boogaloo ready I really mean to just look less like a nerd than I am). Specifically this one.
Also, Ballistic Advantage performance or premium series 8.3 in 300 blackout bbl?
On an unrelated purchasing note: I just want to say God Bless America because only here can you build a "pistol" chambered for an intermediate .30 cal rifle cartridge.
I don't see any major problems with it, particularly when comparing it to other power towers you can buy. I also can't see that it would be cheaper to buy all the pipe than just a standard power tower - $90 on Amazon
As far as towers go I much prefer a simpler more open version without the backrest. It gives me room to maneuver when I hang rings and free space to practice levers. Probably a lot cheaper too. I use this one with rings hanging from it: https://www.amazon.com/Stamina-50-1690-1690-Power-Tower/dp/B002Y2SUU4/ref=sr_1_4?s=sports-and-fitness&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505764339&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=power+tower
I have this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002Y2SUU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469028803&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=pullup+bar&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31-UGeAXYVL&amp;ref=plSrch
The parallets up against the wall or in a corner since I already have a set. Have my rings on it to.
I have this one. It has a rigid core, and doesn't deform, even with all my weight on it. I have had it for several years, and it is still going strong.
I personally use this one, which is (admittedly) on the more expensive side:
To be honest, I don't really know the difference between this and the other types out there. I really bought it because some of the YouTubers have it and it looked cool. But I figured its an investment and have been using it for months and still functions and looks brand new. The small footprint and light weight is great for carrying as its always in my gym bag. I don't want to be carrying a 36" foamroller in and out of the gym.
Also, foamrolling hurts... in the beginning. You can apply light pressure in the beginning if its painful and gradually build up to more pressure. It was agonizing at first, but it feels goddamn amazing now and I can't imagine myself not foamrolling before beginning my workout.
I have this one and I like it, there may be better/cheaper ones idk; http://www.amazon.com/Trigger-Point-Performance-Revolutionary-Roller/dp/B0040EGNIU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hpc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406649393&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=foam+roller
My gym has the all foam ones and they suck.
Got the same issue here with hamstrings. Not sure on poses but I recommend foam rollers. Avoid the cheaper soft ones. Get something similar to this http://www.amazon.com/Trigger-Point-Performance-Revolutionary-Roller/dp/B0040EGNIU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421015267&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=foam+rollers
Coincidentally I just started looking for some bands for travel.
Amazon didn't have many brands but these were well reviewed.
It was a combo of amazon, walmart and craigslist.
The only thing I would have done differently is buy horse stall mats instead of the floor tiles. These these are OK but they are too soft and I can tell they wont hold up long. I was in an online ordering mind set and tractor supply shipping is out of this world. Later I realized I could find a local feed supply place and go pick up the stall mats. There's a place a few miles from me that sells them for $55 each. Im going to keep the puzzle mats for a bit and replace them with stall mats later.
If possible, spend the extra to invest in one that you can hang from the ceiling, and if you aren't that handy have someone install it for you. Depending what you're doing, the free standing ones can be good, but if it's to increase the strength of your punches, a real heavy bag is pretty much where it's at.
A trick I learned from my old Sifu (Master) for if you don't have a punching bag, get yourself some cheap exercise bands, and stand on the middle just like you would for doing curls with it. Get into your fight stance and shadow box away! It pulls down as well as back so you get lots of extra resistance, it adds a lot of speed/strength to punches.
I just got these for Christmas. They are way sturdier and quality manufactured than i expected. And like $25
Black Mountain Products Resistance Band Set with Door Anchor, Ankle Strap, Exercise Chart,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/7245456313/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_u8DRub012FYGB
I'm using Black Mountain Products. They are great and have great customer service. They also have a heavier band than the bodylastics.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Mountain-Products-Resistance-Exercise/dp/7245456313/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374813747&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=resistance+band cant be beat.
I bought these bands from Amazon that let you stick them through various parts of your closed door for lat pull downs, face pulls, leg kick backs, etc.
I also have some adjustable dumbbells I've semi-permanently borrowed from my brother. That really seems enough. I also have a pull up bar that when not being used to air dry laundry, is used for negatives as I'm not able to do real pull ups.
Found a cheaper version of the Black Mountain set: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/7245456313/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_01_t_img_lh?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've done both. I started p90x in 2010 to lose weight to join the military. I started doing 4 push ups. 0 pull ups around 210 lbs. Followed the diet and workouts religiously. Got down to 170. Could bust out 50 push ups and 10 pull ups no problem. Loved p90x. Changed my life. Fast forward a few years. In the Marines, still in great shape although I added some belly fat (can still run 3 miles in around 20:00 minutes and do 20 pull ups) and got p90x3. Dropped from 200 lbs to 180. Much easier diet routine to follow and 30 minute workouts are fast and really effective. I got in even better shape. If I wanted more, I combined two workouts. Did an upper routine then lower, or weightlifting and cardio. (Doing 2 workouts is still only an hour) Tony talks a lot, sometimes I'd do 5 burpees in between sets. There is a lot you can do. Only complaint is no dedicated arm day. I felt like I got in better overall shape, but my arms were looking a little smaller than I liked. Today I dabble in it all, X,X3, traditional weightlifting, crossfit type stuff. Keeps me in great shape. Wouldn't be where I am fitness-wise without both programs. Now on to what you asked... I'd go X3. Easier to commit to 30 minutes and equally effective. Also, you can make needed adjustments for pull ups. If you have a pull up bar you can use resistance bands to assist you. You can use just bands as an alternative. Or you can use a pull up bar and a chair. (They advertise pull up assist device that is unnecessary. Regular bands will work for half the price). Bands I bought are off Amazon here...
Hope this helped. PM any questions.
One of the things I like most about living here is not needing a car. There are certainly some places I avoid biking to/through, especially at night, out of concern for my safety. If I need to go there, I just use lyft, or get a ride from a friend.
Someone else mentioned that there are no bike lanes - this is not true. There are bike lanes on some roads, but not as many as I personally would like. That said, there are a lot of pretty narrow streets, especially in the quarter/marigny/bywater that simply don't have room for bike lanes.
One recommendation I would make is to get a bike airhorn for the moments when drivers aren't paying attention/don't care about bicyclists/aren't exactly sober, which seems to happen a lot here. This has saved me on quite a few occassions.
Wow... put a baby carrier on there... Just wow. That is so awesome. I want to get one and paint it black with yellow flames, and put a doll in it.
As for bells. You're doing it [wrong](http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC "This will put the fear of god into them.").
This is the best option. If you really want to send the drivers a message, you could get an Airzound
Forget a bell. Get one of these:
Might I suggest this bike horn
I just bought one a couple weeks ago and it has already saved me multiple times. Super loud and makes people jam on their brakes.
Yes, just recommended this elsewhere in the thread.
Have to use the frame pump(or floor pump at home) to refill though!
Here ya go. Loud as FUCK
These things are loud:
Best not to use them on pedestrians though.
Delta Cycle Delta Airzound Bike Horn
Not a train horn, but also not expensive: https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC?sa-no-redirect=1
My coworker has an air horn on his recumbent trike. It hooks up to a bottle and is refilled with a bike pump. It is loud. Something like this.
example video made me laugh :D
These Lanksy sharpening kits are legendary. I've used mine for years for both hunting & kitchen knives.
Here's an awesome instructional video for the Lanksy kit.
If you are looking for a knife, head over to a site like this and just check out their sale/clearance blades. I linked to a stainless steel one that has a good shape for cleaning fish.
If he really is a knife guy, then he will have personal preferences, so a blade might not be the best.
I would suggest picking up a Mora HD Companion (~$20 with sheath) which is my all time favorite outdoor blade. A Custom Strop (~$45) there are a lot of custom makers of those here (see other comments) and a sharpening system (If he doesn't have one, a Lansky is an excellent field sharpener for ~$40, otherwise a 1k/6k stone for ~$30. )
I have to say that I avoided getting a wetstone for a while. I just bout this stone recently and found it was pretty easy to sharpen using it. To be fair, my knives were pretty beat up and dull before I sharpened them. So, I bought a pretty low grit stone. The only thing I'd recommend is getting something at least a little higher. Now that I've sharpened with both the 250 and 1000 sides once, it doesn't seem like the 250 side will be of much use anymore unless I want to change the edge angle entirely which is not likely.
It took about 10 minutes for my 8" chef knife and some other 5" knife that I found under my kitchen stove when I bought my house. :)
I've heard that the Lansky sharpening system is pretty easy to use, but the one common complaint is that it gets a bit tough for larger kitchen knives. There is a stone in it for serrated knives as well.
A couple whetstones is just about the simplest that you can do, one coarse and one fine. I like using traditional whetstones, and I get great results, but when I am lazy, I use a guided sharpening system of some kind. Pull through sharpeners destroy your blade, making nicks into bigger nicks. Don't use those. I use a spyderco sharpmaker or a lansky system when I am lazy, and for people who don't want to spend hours and hours getting good at freehanding with whetstones, these are probably the best options. Links are below.
If you have more questions, or are truly interested or into knives, come check out /r/knifeclub
You are very lost right now, it will all be okay.
First you need to understand what sharpening, honing, and maintaining are.
Sharpening = setting a bevel, restoring the edge
This includes taking out chips, reprofiling the blade ( reprofiling is taking the current edge angle and changing it, say 30° to 20°)
Honing = refining that edge and adding a micro bevel ( a micro bevel is adding a slightly more obtuse angle at the very edge, this increases wear resistance and improves performance )
Maintaining = stripping ( this can be done on most any porous material, well get back to stripping )
I don't recommend that someone new to sharpening start with bench stones, you can really mess up a blade if you don't follow the proper technique.
There are many systems that can do this whole bevel thing for you, you just need to follow the instructions.
This is a well regarded system that will reliably produce sharp, and consistent edges
Stripping is for when you roll an edge, or if it's not
Blunt enough for sharpening, it's also for refining the edge.
Stripping on leather is not always a good thing, leather is to some degree soft, it will give just a little and it can blunt the edge.
I personally strip on wood, there is little to no chance of blunting. I use basswood and pine.
> the higher grit the better...
Yes and no. It all depends on what you're cutting.
Some people love toothy edges ( not taken to a high grit)
While I love polished edged ( taken to high grits )
Bench stones are usually just larger.
My version is a little crappy, but check out /u/atomedge for a good one, Link for atomedge's guide
EDIT: I saw my mistake, I'm keeping it.
I've had a lot of luck with the Lansky Sharpening system. I also recommend the little spindly mount if you don't have a vice. It isn't really necessary, but I find it makes sharpening a lot easier.
There are a lot of videos out there, but this is the one that helped me the most. I know it's not recommended to sharpen a knife by moving the stone backwards (from tip to handle) but I've tried to replicate his methods and had fantastic results.
That said, it takes some practice to develop a feel for how much pressure to apply and what motions to use. It took me about a month of not-really-sharpened knives to realize that I wasn't using anywhere near enough force with the coarser stones to form a burr. This guy outlines how to feel a burr pretty well (the whole video is a bit long, but definitely helps with some little tricks.) I also run my nail along the length of the blade to feel for a fully-formed burr.
Other than that, just keep practicing and trying new techniques, and find what is most comfortable and efficient for you.
Or even the Lansky systems
5 Stone Deluxe - $38.99
Or the good ol' 4 Rod Turnbox - $16.99
finish off with
If you find yourself sharpening a lot of different knives you'll want
it moves the steel faster (for changing the edge the first time) and the stone holds up longer.
Long story short, it gives perfect consistency and has the super fine stones for giving that polished razors edge. It makes sharpening anything UNDER 6" a dream.
For knives LARGER than 6" I use
with various ceramic belts from
It's also GREAT for doing convex conversions. Doing a flat grind on a concave edge takes a steady hand or a jig.
Practice on wood and scrap steel. You'll RUIN a blade in a HURRY with those coarse belts.
If the blade gets hot it will burn the steel and you will lose it's hardness. Dip it in cool water, dry with a towel, often. The tip is the most delicate part. Only grind for a second or two, then dip again.
Buy yourself a decent bolt action .22 or a shotgun, a good 3-5" fixed blade knife, a blaze orange hat or vest, and a decent little first aid kit (don't forget a tourniquet).
Step 1: Take a hunters safety/education class.
Some states have classes exclusively for adults. This will give you some basic, but good info on gun/bow safety and state laws pertaining to hunting. In addition, they should have pamphlets that will outline the different hunting seasons, game animals, invasive species, and state/federal hunting areas.
These classes might also help you meet some more experienced folks who could bring you along or offer some valuable advice.
Step 2: Learn how to use your gear.
Your ability with your gear can mean the difference between success and failure on the hunt--and in some cases life and death (especially pertaining to your med kit).
Let's start with the rifle. I like bolt action .22's. You can get a very accurate gun and learn how to use it for very little money. Using a bolt action .22 with iron sights forces the shooter to learn the fundamentals of marksmanship, building a solid foundation for the future.
I like the Savage MkII and the Ruger American.
With either rifle I'd recommend adding a peep sight and a regular 2 point sling.
Both are accurate and inexpensive rifles that you can shoot day in and day out for years.
You should be able to find a range with at least 50 yards to sight in (aka zero) your rifle. If you need guidance here, there are plenty of online resources, however, you'd do better to ask an experienced shooter for a hand. Be sure to use the same ammo for zero and hunting.
For shotguns you can't beat the versatility of a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500. Get either gun in 12 or 20 gauge. The beauty of these two is that you are always a simple barrel change away from being able to shoot birdshot (birds small game) or slugs (everything else).
With a good .22 and a good shotgun, you should be able to hunt most wild game in North America. There are better calibers and rifles for specific hunting applications but those two will do it all.
What I don't recommend for hunting rifles/shotguns and why:
1 I don't like scopes (at first). Forcing yourself to learn on iron sights means you develop a firm foundation in the fundamentals. I remember wanting a scope for my .22 so bad, so my dad made me a deal. I had to kill 100 red squirrels or starlings and 10 groundhogs before he'd let me add a scope. It took me the better part of a summer to accomplish this but I walked away from that summer being able to put lead on just about anything within 150 yards of that little rifle.
2 I don't like autoloaders (at first). Simply because shooting a bolt gun means you have one, maybe two shots to get the job done. You learn to make ever shot count. Once you are proficient, go wild.
3 I don't like tactical/tacticool rifles for beginners or really hunting for that matter. They are usuallly auto loaders (see #2), heavier, and more expensive. You don't feel so bad taking your $230 Savage through brambles, tripping over roots and dropping it, or leaning it up against a rusty fence post. If you don't trust me, look at what the professional hunters use.
Extras: buy a quality, brass rod cleaning kit and some decent gun oil (or CLP) for deep cleans. Keep a [Bore Snake](.22 .223 .25 CAL Bore Snake Cleaner Kit Cord Rope Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKSNVTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XRfGzbN7P8Z58) in an extra pocket for the times you get dirt or debris in the barrel.
Get yourself a good knife. I always have my pocket knife (a CRKT M21-02G) and a skinner when I'm hunting.
For a pocket knife use what suits you. For a skinner I really like knives like the Schrade Old Timer 158 for general skinning and this blade from Ontario Knife.
You also need a good way to keep your knives sharp. I've had a lot of luck with the. [Lansky System](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_85fGzbBRJDH6K).
Last, please get yourself a decent med kit. Too many people have died in the woods due to a knife accident or gun accident that could have been easily treated.
You can easily make yourself a basic kit or buy one like [this](Ever Ready First Aid Meditac Tactical Trauma IFAK Kit with Trauma Pack Quickclot and Israeli Bandage in Molle Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAAMS2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iagGzb76NGQZJ) pre-made.
This kit has everything you need except for a tourniquet like [this](Tourniquet - (Black) Recon Medical Gen 3 Mil-Spec Kevlar Metal Windlass Aluminum Lightweight First Aid Tactical Swat Medic Pre-Hospital Life Saving Hemorrhage Control Registration Card (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETMVQOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fcgGzbSAMKAWS) and an Israeli Bandage like [this](Ever Ready Bandage Battle Dressing First Aid Compression Bandage, 6 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DPVERM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1cgGzb9C9H5WP).
You can learn to use all this stuff over the course of an hour via YouTube. You would do better to find a nurse, paramedic, or Navy Corpsman to give you a crash course in the use of the contents of your IFAK. If you can find a Corpsman, they are probably the best for this kind of thing. Lots of good tips and tricks for field use...plus you can pay them in beer.
Don't forget to add extras like any medication you might need, chapstick, Bayer aspirin (good for headaches and heart attacks), a little tube of antibacterial ointment, and a couple fabric bandages.
If you won't carry this on your person, keep it in your vehicle.
For good practice I like squirrel and rabbit hunting. Makes you consider a lot about safety, a lot about taking only the good shots, plus they are easy to clean and good to eat.
Last learn how to use what you kill.
If you are hunting varmits, that is one thing. I shoot invasive species (when legal), and varmits that are causing a nuisance and that is reason enough for me.
If you are hunting anything else for exclusively for sport, please use it. You can use some of the books referenced earlier to learn about skinning and field dressing. I like to watch shows like Meat Eater, to learn better ways to use the meat I've harvested. Once you get into cooking game meat, you will wonder why you ever went to the store for meat.
Just don't forget that hunting is about stewardship and learning. It's a lifelong pursuit that is very rewarding.
Always be safe, always be ethical, always be responsible, always have fun.
Edit: If you ever find yourself in south central or southwest Michigan, I can help you with anything I've outlined above. I'm a lifelong hunter, a lifelong shooter, a small arms instructor in the military, a certified combat lifesaver, and a decent game cook.
What's your opinion on this kit? Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gHhlybKF97P58
I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420386204&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lansky+sharpeners and an old leather belt for a strop. My hands aren't steady enough for traditional stones and this seemed like the best bang for the buck.
I'm not an expert either, just sharing some things I do.
Oils from your hands are technically bad for the steel, but it's not the end of the world. Wipe your knife with a cloth with a little bit of WD 40 every once and a while.
For sharpening, I like the Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System. I didn't think it would see much use, but now I sharpen my knives all the times. General consensus is that it's awesome for smaller knives, but sucks for big ones (anything over 5" in my opinion)
To get the little rust spots you mentioned out, just use some steel wool.
EDC knives are tools. They get used. Don't worry about if it's pretty or not. I use my SOG Trident for random things about every other day, and I have since I got it over a year ago. The Kershaw Skyline is an excellent knife.
Google "EDC Knife Care" and I'm sure you'll get tons more answers.
That's what /r/knifeclub is all about! Enjoy! Consider using that extra $30 for a lansky 5 stone sharpening system.
Edit: definitely check /r/knife_swap too. There are lots of great knives for cheap
first and foremost, find a hunter safety class and take it. there is an online option now but I really recommend going to an in-person class. I did this when I was 11 or 12 and remember some very experienced old timey hunters explaining everything. we even got hands-on experience with some old 22's and got to shoot them at a range.
they will cover most of your questions, and will go over gun safety and how to hunt safely (identifying your target, whats behind your target, etc). They should also cover the basics of field dressing (removing the organs out in the field).
If you want to hunt deer you're going to want a rifle of at very minimum .243 caliber (preferably higher, i hunt with .30-06). Hunting rifles as of this moment cannot be semi-automatic although there is a real possibility this will be changed by next hunting season. (Even so the most common AR-15 which is .223 caliber is too small for hunting deer.) A .270 is a common whitetail caliber, big enough to take down a deer but not going to kick as hard as .30-06 or .308.
When you buy your hunting license, it comes with one tag to harvest an antlered deer. The rules of what makes a deer count as "antlered" vary from region to region but for most of PA it requires at least 3 points on one side. The paperwork you receive will also have a form you must mail in to your county treasurer to apply for a doe tag. The doe permits are limited and the earlier you apply the better your chances are. A doe tag is only good for the zone you applied in.
If you want to hunt rabbits and birds such as pheasants or turkey you'll want a shotgun. Most people would hunt with a 12 gauge but if you've got a smaller frame you might want a smaller gun (16 or 20 gauge). Turkey requires a tag similar to a buck, which are included in your regular hunting license.
Ducks require a special stamp you can buy when you purchase your license, and there are rules about the metal in the shot shells when you hunt waterfowl (it can't contain lead).
if you're interested in squirrel hunting you can use a shotgun, but the more challenging way to do it is with a 22 rifle. This is a very small and inexpensive bullet.
If you've never handled a gun you're going to be nervous carrying it around with a shell in the chamber. The best thing you can do is take it a range (such as these) and go through a few boxes of shells practicing. A State Game Lands range is free to use as long as you have a hunting license. The one by me usually has a game commission officer there who would be happy to answer questions. Just practice, learn where your safety is, be aware of where the muzzle is pointed, and keep your finger out of the trigger guard. Also protect your hearing! You will need hearing and eye protection at the range!
you need to wear orange on your head and chest/back for most seasons in PA, the exception being some archery/muzzleloader and turkey hunting. Just get a hat and vest and you'll be fine.
Other gear: knife (I prefer a small fixed blade knife to a folder for cleaning deer; less places to get hair and gunk stuck), lighter, maps, emergency whistle, emergency blanket, drag rope (to get the deer out of the woods), rubber gloves (so you aren't a mess after cleaning a deer), and I bring a spare phone battery.
Like any other adventure in the wild make sure people know where you're going and when you should be home.
Well, I have an idea for now. I travel for a living, and spend a lot of time in hotels. I'm going to be building a cooking kit for my car that just sits in the truck for times like this.
Currently I have (1) 12" cast iron pan, 1 coffee maker, 1 Morakniv, a cutting board, and a pair of tongs.
I'm missing about 99% of the shit I need, but hey, gotta start somewhere.
Personally I wouldn't head into the woods without a fixed blade knife. That's just my personal preference.
The obvious answer that a lot of people will give you is a Mora. These people are correct. It's a crazy sharp knife, well made and for $14 you could use it for one hiking trip and it'd be worth it.
If you're looking for a folder to carry all the time. Any of those you listed would be good. There are like a million choices for folders in the $20-40 range. Just stick to a good brand and find one you like the looks of.
On the cheaper side, Gerber MP 600.
Gerber MP600 Multi-Plier, Needle Nose, Black  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VORS1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ylfCDbQQFGQJM
I also recently purchased a Leatherman Wave as a bday present for me it's nice, though I found a new in box on Ebay so a little savings.
I do agree with others your gonna want a fix blade as well, Check out the Mora line affordable reliabable.
Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade, 4.1-Inch, Military Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TNWD40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bBfCDbZHX4RA0
Petzl e+LITE headlamp
Katadyn Micropur water purification tablets
Sawyer Squeeze water filtration system
Titanium Shepherd stakes
Victorinox Swiss Army classic
Morakniv Companion knife
Darn Tough Merino wool socks
My two cents, I'm sure others will pick on these opinions...
Traditional SAR, the teams you will find around the country operate in a whole different world than the military. For the most part you can sort of look to volunteer firefighters as an analogy, even then they tend to be more regimented than SAR. There are some SAR teams out there that have more of a military structure to them, but most of what you will find will feel more like SAR clubs (think chess clubs, hiking clubs, etc). My unit meets once a month, we have a business meeting with the whole review last month's minutes, reports on events since the last meeting, old business, new business, etc. After that we conduct a classroom training session on topics like Lost Person Behavior, Medical Techniques, Navigation, etc. We also conduct regular field trainings to bring it all together. We don't have ranks, we have a list of skillsets and we are each typed according to our ability in each skill. Our unit and all the units I know don't work with weapons, sure we carry knives, but the biggest blade most of us work with is one of these, not some giant thing that rambo would carry, no machetes, no hatchets. If there is a situation where SAR skills are needed for say a fugitive, we stay home. We have done evidence searches for things criminals have tossed into the woods, but they were already in jail.
SAR in the military is their own thing and while we can and do work together on missions they are a unit that stays a unit. When we ask for military assets we indicate what needs to be done and they tell us what they are sending and what it will do. If I show up on a mission with 5 other people from my unit we might be on a team together or I might get put in with members of a different unit.
When it comes to the actual searching it is simply a lot of covering ground. We walk, and we walk, and we walk. 99% of the time we get nothing, there are only so many clues out there. There is one really awesome clue (the person or thing you were out to look for) and tons of acreage to cover. We often start from a last known point and try to move that further along in time. An example we were out looking for a mushroom hunter, when I showed up they new where he started into the woods, we then found a clearly picked mushroom and a couple of boot prints. That advanced the last known point a few hundred feet and gave us a second breadcrumb to work with. It takes a certain type of person to do that effectively. I have seen plenty of people bow out because they had been on maybe a dozen searches over several years and never found a thing. One of our radio operators has been on 8 missions, each ended in a recovery. My hope when I got in was to find a clue at some point, and Oh Boy my first time out I got the find, I found the 24yro woman who had hanged herself. We don't have an obligation to respond to one call or another, but you also don't get to decide who gets lost and when. You also have to get along real well with the others on your team. I've been on all sorts of teams and there are people that I know I don't want to go out with, and certain combinations of people that I won't go out with.
With every one of your responses I feel more and more that SAR wouldn't be a good fit for you now. Most units welcome visitors, I would say that you might consider finding one of the local unit's meetings and checking it out. Attend a few meetings before even considering applying, and talk to the people there and be honest about what you are looking for. Once you get started into it there is a substantial investment in time, energy, gear, and training on the part of you and your team. It isn't worth it to go through a bunch of training and getting geared up to not be a productive member of a team (remember finding nothing is something). I'm not sure what exactly you are looking for, but I don't think SAR is it. There is always a "who knows?" aspect and if you spend some time around a unit you may find that it is a good fit, or that your outlook might change. Our mountain rescue unit has people "hang out" around them for several months before offering them an application, in their world they have to trust their lives to their team. While the regular old SAR doesn't require the same standard it is very easy for someone (as good at it as they may be) to be more of a distraction than a help.
I don't think SAR is going to get you what you want. If you do feel like continuing down this path talk to the people in the unit(s) in your area, be honest, and don't take it personally if they tell you "no".
Any Mora knife. They are fantastic values.
Here's a great buck/camp knife, carbon fixed blade, 3/4 tang (full tangs are $50-$75), 4-6 in long (longer and it gets in the way) Mora Companion HDK
I've found that the Companion makes a very good general purpose knife. I used mine last November to skin and butcher a deer, and it was well up to the task.
Edit: This is the one I use.
I'll second the Mora blades. I have a couple like http://www.amazon.com/New-Swedish-Mil-Mora-Knife/dp/B004TNWD40 this one. If you poke around, you should find different colors in the $12-15 range. Very good steel on that blade - used it to field dress a couple deer and was still sharp.
Since space may be at a premium - many butcher shops in grocery stores will sharpen non-serrated blades for free.
I'd skip the flashlight and get a headlamp. The simpler ones without the battery pack on the back side of the head work nicely and double as a hand held light if you need it too.
For general survival/bushcraft purposes (though not for breaking a car window):
(Great quality/price ratio from Sweden)
For EDC/general cutting purposes(and gorgeous old-school looks), a small high-quality folding knife from France:
If you want a more "modern" pocket knife that is still affordable, I recommend something from the American masters of Cold Steel like:
(Gotta give some lovin' to that Aus8A japanese steel and the Scandinavian grind)
I can recommend all three, though I own only the first 2. Have fun and stay sharp!
I recommend this one. It has I nice grip and it is still one of the cheapest mora knives.
I'm sure most people know most of these knives but I figured I'd list them anyways.
Morakniv 4.1 inch carbon
Boker Plus Urban Trapper Knife Black G-10
Zero Tolerance 0350
Spyderco Delica 4
Higo no Kami 7
Really old Leatherman Wave
Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K
Case Sodbuster Jr.
When it comes to books, you should always wait until the first day of class so the professor goes over what you will need for the course. For some classes you might not even need a book at all! You will not be using the book very much if at all the first week of the quarter so you will be perfectly fine waiting until the first day or two to order your books! I recommend avoiding the bookstore because it tends to be overpriced. Amazon has much better deals if you want a new book. For used books, join the Textbooks for Sale Facebook page, which is part of the UC Davis groups on Facebook. Also, many people obtain their books in PDF format online or through others who have taken the course. While this is not legal, it does provide for a very cheap alternative to buying your books (but again, it is illegal in most cases unless the publisher has explicitly released the book online in PDF format free of charge!)
I live in West Village as well actually! If you are in a furnished apartment you will get a bed, desk, nightstand and dresser to yourself. You also get a TV stand, living room table, dining table, and a sofa included that you will share. I recommend coordinating with your housemates on what to bring. That is what I did and it is way better than bringing 4 sets of silverware, plates, etc. Is there anything specific you'd like to know about that you should bring? The bare minimum (computer, clothes, kitchen utensils) is what I brought and I am doing just fine!
As for bikes, I recommend a single speed or standard road bike for commuting. The commute from West Village to the middle of campus on bike is 5-7 minutes depending on how fast you biking.
If you are looking to spend under $300 then buy a nice, used road bike when you get to Davis. There is a Bikes for Sale page for UC Davis on Facebook that is regularly updated! Craigslist works fine too. If you are looking to spend $300 or more, ($300 to $500 can get you a good quality bike that will last you throughout college) I recommend checking out this website: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm
I personally ride a Single Speed and I love it! It has no gears so you don't need to worry about shifting. It is lightweight, fast, and reliable. I have the Windsor The Hour from BikesDirect (it was $300 when I got it). I recommend the Mercier Kilo TT if they have it in stock (it is extremely popular so it is hard to find in stock). Otherwise the Dawes SST AL and Windsor TheHour/Clockwork are great too!
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Edit: I almost forgot! Thanks for reminding me /u/nTranced. A good U-lock is a must in Davis. Bike theft isn't extremely common but it does happen from time to time. If you have a nice bike make sure it is locked up with a U-lock. I personally recommend this lock as it is a good combination of price and effectiveness: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405012899&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock
I bought this set as good decent lights, not the brightest, but enough to see in city/town conditions in the dead of night, probably okay if you are very rural;
As for helmets, more cost generally means lighter/more ventilation, depending on how much either of these means to you.
On locks, I'd suggest a set like this;
it will allow you to lock the frame/rear wheel with the U, and the front wheel with the cable. It terms of safeguarding your bike, it's more like defensive driving; how, where, time of day, amount of people around, prevalence of bike theft, are bigger factors than the size of the lock.
I have a Monster cable lock now and just read the reviews on the brand for the first time. Definitely need to upgrade. I am thinking about something like this. U-locks are supposed to be great, and the cable would help keep the wheels safe.
Anything mid-range is fine. Ultimately, unless you want to lug a 20lb chain around, any sort of U-Lock or mid-range chain lock is sufficient for temporary lock-ups.
I've used both of the above at places like Bradford Beach, restaurants downtown, and Bay View on pretty nice bikes without ever having a problem. Make sure you lock up your front wheel as well, I see a ton of pretty average bikes sitting there without front wheels cuz somebody just used the quick-release and walked off with it.
Hence why you by a U-lock. Expensive as locks go, but cheaper than a new bike.
I just bought one today. think this will do it?
I'll keep my eye out. That being said, might as well brush up on the bare minimums for keeping a bike safe.
Register your bikes. Multiple online services offer free registration and stickers. UCIPD and IPD both offer registration services. When bike thieves are busted, they could be in possession of your bike. If your bike isn't registered, then the cops aren't going to be able to contact you. Your bike will then be auctioned off by the cops. I think the proceeds go right back into the department. so i guess if you really like cops.. don't register your bike.
Keep your bike indoors whenever possible. Even hundred dollar U-locks can be sawed through eventually. A lock is ONLY a deterrent.
When it is not possible to put your bike inside, opt for a heavy chain lock OR a U-lock (Even better: a combination of the 2). Most cable locks are sold as accessory locks. If your lock was bought for less than 20 bucks, it's only for show. ex. 35 bucks. Onguard is also a pretty okay brand.
even though irvine is a low crime area, because of uci, irvine's going to always be a target for bike thieves. Combine life inexperience with laziness, and you'll get sitting ducks like 200+ dollar bikes being locked up with what functionally amounts to pieces of string.
I would return what you bought and buy this instead.
It's the same price for a better lock combo.
Tbh I got a set of cheap silicone lights from China off Amazon. If you forget to take them off and they get nicked, it’s not the end of the world. I got three pairs IIRC. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00FXO6MUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524043742&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=bike+lights&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41db7Haaa5L&amp;ref=plSrch
For a lock, I bought this because it comes with a cable so you can also secure the front wheel of the bike (seen so many bikes with quick release wheels have had the front one nicked): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005YPK8G2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524043790&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=bike+d+lock&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41mBBM7BkYL&amp;ref=plSrch
Thanks! Any tips for where to sit/how to hold the bike on mass transit? I was successfully able to hold it out a little bit so that 2 people could sit on either side of me and nobody licked the flood trying to walk around the bike.
I read how to correctly lock up a bike, and bought this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK8G2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 It has good reviews so hopefully it'll work out.
Left to right
[Sigg 0.6L water bottle] (http://siggnorthamerica.com/shop/classic-traveller/0-6l-classic-traveller/)
[Muji Gel Pen] (https://www.muji.eu/pages/online.asp?Sec=13&amp;Sub=52)
[Alvin DRAFT-TEC RETRAC 0.3mm] (https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-DR07-Draf-Tec-Retrac-Mechanical/dp/B001DKJ55C)
[Leatherman Style PS] (https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Style-PS-Multi-Tool-Black/dp/B0058RX9NU)
Anker SoundBuds Sport IE 20
[Fisher Space Pen] (https://www.amazon.com/Fisher-400B-Space-Bullet-Pen/dp/B000WGD13U)
[Leatherman Wave Black] (https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Multi-Tool-Black-Molle-Sheath/dp/B0009JS2ZW)
[Mee Audio M6 Pro] (https://www.amazon.com/MEE-audio-Universal-Fit-Noise-Isolating-Detachable/dp/B015S2I6A0)
[Random Knife] (http://www.smorgasburg.com/)
[Corsair Voyager Go 32GB] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Voyager-USB3-0-Android-devices/dp/B00HVT27CW)
[Kershaw Cryo 1555Ti] (https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q)
[Alpine Swiss Slim Wallet] (https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Swiss-Genuine-Leather-Pocket/dp/B00EOYKEEA)
[Anker PowerCore 10000 with Quick Charge 3.0] (https://www.anker.com/products/A1264011)
[Seiko SNDC31] (https://www.amazon.com/Seiko-SNDC31-Classic-Stainless-Chronograph/dp/B004JY0KP8)
[Lenovo T440s (256GB Samsung 840 EVO, 12GB ram, 1080p touchscreen, i5 4300)]
[Motorola Doid Turbo Ballistic Nylon 32GB] (https://www.verizonwireless.com/smartphones/droid-turbo/)
Kershaw Skyline is pretty nice if you want a g-10 handle and it's US made but it is 3 1/8" long
Kershaw Cryo is pretty nice and it's 2 3/4" long
This is a list of my EDC. I go to public high school so some items can't be carried all the time. I'll try and get links to all the products I can.
So I actually have a fairly in depth reason on why certain items go in certain pockets. But this comment is long enough so I'll leave it out unless you ask.
EDIT: It looks like the Bolt Focus Flashlight is currently unavailable. I'll still leave the link in case that changes.
The shard is $6 on Amazon, so for less than $10 more you can have the shard and a MUCH better knife
I have a bunch of them - MSR pocket rocket, Kovea Titanium stove, 2 cheap ones off Amazon. Only difference is the name brand ones feel more solid. If I could buy and try another, it would be the BRS stove, http://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U
I also use the Kovea LPG adaptor so I can use propane cans with these stoves when car camping: http://www.amazon.com/Kovea-LPG-Adaptor-Small-Silver/dp/B00CFPISZW
Get one without an igniter, as they all go bad sooner or later. Just bring a lighter to light the gas.
So is propane the best for weight right now besides alcohol? I love my white gas! Is this the stove you have for solo? https://www.amazon.ca/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U
I'm leaving for my solo wct in two days, Tuesday May 7!
I know you wanted the rubberized handles, but that limits your options significantly. I'd say apply the rubber yourself with a tool handle dip.
BRS Stove - $16
Snow Peak Trek 900 - $45
Rustoleum Grip Dip $17.50
That leaves a solid $10. You can have them pick you up a canister or two!
I've been using both the BRS Stove and Snow Peak Trek 900 and they both work great. Now, if you have a windy situation, you may need to build a windscreen or get a MSR Pocket Rocket.
As a tip, just don't bring alcohol stove on the PCT. Fire bans are everywhere and you don't want to be that guy who sets the trail on fire.
Get the BRS-3000t and ~650ml titanium pot, like Toaks 650ml pot or Evernew Ultralight Deep pot.
More than likely you'll go stoveless at some point.
Honestly, if weight is priority, I would just grab a BRS stove. Test it a couple of times, and if there are issues, buy another.
I'm not keen on the waste of doing this, but I've got one and it has been working perfectly over the course of half a year or so. Just keep in mind that it won't perform as well in wind relative to your candidates. But boy is it tiny.
The BRS is a cheap lightweight stove.
The brs 3000 also gets a lot of mentions for inexpensive backpacking stoves.
I will say this though, it is nice to have a quality backpacking stove like the pocket rocket 2. I have both the etekcity and the pocket rocket. The pocket rocket feels sturdier and has bigger arms. Here is a photo of the same pot on the PR and etekcity. Those little arms on the etekcity just kind of flop back and forth too. I dont have any experience with the brs 3000 though
Maybe he means the BRS stove on Amazon that sells for like 13-15$
You could consider the BRS-3000T stove instead of the MicroRocket -- it's cheaper and lighter.
For the pot consider the SnowPeak Trek 700 -- I have one and it fits a canister well.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/BRS-Outdoor-Lightweight-Stove-Titanium-alloy-Burner-Camping-Stove-BRS-3000T/2042933370.html non mobile link
Also amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NNMF70U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2FVB70KDJE667
Stove: BSR Ultralight stove
Spoon: Toaks Ti Long handle
Pot: Toaks Ti 750ml
Fire: Bic Mini
Seasoning: Tabasco in 30ml plastic dripper bottle
Water bottle: Smart Water 1L (x2)
Purification: Boil (winter) Sawyer Squeeze (other 3 seasons)
Meals: Mountain House, Packit Gourmet, SPAM singles, trail mix
I eat right out of the bag for the dehydrated meals
For a water purifier I would go with the sawyer water filter. You can filter water into any bottle you want or use it like a straw. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FA2RLX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457621423&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=sawyer
Ever heard of the BRS 3000T?
I've had good luck with Toaks products. You can hold the handle without it being too hot, even with boiling water. This should fill your requirements:
For a stove I use this popular item:
Super light, heats water up just fine.
You look pretty solid, honestly.
How much night hiking do you do? Are you sure you need the headlamp? You could probably get away with something like this. It's the one I use, weighs like 9g
Also, how attached are you to your jetboil? Have you tried the BSR? Only weighs 25g, uses the same fuel. Your pot should fit as well.
Out of convenience, I usually use an artisan instant coffee like Voila.
If I really want actual coffee grounds, I’ll bring the grounds in a plastic bag and use a tea strainer. It works well. Just get water near boil, drop in tea strainer with grounds, lightly stir. This is the exact one I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K57B73/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UUA6BbJCMDBJN
As for a stove, I use this ridiculously light and cheap Chinese stove. Quantity is not great but it’s dirt cheap and I’ve never had one show up not functional. Some will leak gas for an instant when you screw the stove on (more than you’d expect), some don’t. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NNMF70U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2VA6BbGGSBA02
Hey, you can also make quite a bit of your own gear if you're feeling up to the challenge. Check out /r/myog for more information about that.
Fancy, fold up cook kits can run you $20 to $70 or more, plus fuel, but you can also make your own cook kits real easily from soda cans, cat food cans, and grease pots. You can get one from Walmart for $7, and an aluminum pot handle from any outdoors store for a couple of bucks. Here's a basic one for $4, but you can find them for $2, too. You can also use a folded bit of aluminum foil as a wind break around your stove.
The best part about those is not only are they light and cheap to replace, but your can stove and your aluminum handle should fit neatly inside your grease pot. Depending on how tall you made your windbreak, you might be able to fit it inside your pot, too. If not, it's just aluminum foil; it'll fold up.
It really depends on what your budget and your conditions are. You can grab a cheap, fairly light tent for $50 or $60. (If you want to go crazy cheap, there are $20 tents that you can set up between two trees or support with trekking poles.)
I wouldn't suggest depending on a cheap tent for the long term, but use them as something you can test out, beat up, and not be too heartbroken over. They're just the basics.
Woot.com often has sales on camping gear, including backpacks, light blankets, sleeping bags, and hammocks. Decent backpacking hammocks usually run about $15 to $25 online, don't stress about getting one that's really expensive and has a lot of features. They're pretty much all parachute hammocks. Worry about investing in the expensive stuff later.
My advice, though? Don't stress about your gear at first. Get some cheap starter gear, read about it, test it, make a plan. Drop on by /r/trailmeals and find some simple recipes that you like. Find a nice state park nearby and look at their maps. Find a camp site and see what's there: Do you have trees available for hammocks? Is there a fire pit already set up? Do you have wood available for fuel? (You probably won't need much more than your cook pot and utensils if your campsite has a firepit with a grill, for example.)
Make your plan and execute it. Let people know where you're going, and what you're up to. Invite a friend if you can. Put your comfy shoes on, toss your crap in a backpack, go out for a weekend, and test your gear. Get some experience with your new stuff, see what works for you and what doesn't. Learn where you want to focus if you want to shed weight, and check your reviews. Go to places like REI: they'll often let you see or set up any tent you're interested in, in advance, so you can check out how easy or how difficult it might be on the trail, in the dark. That last part's important. You can have the fanciest tent in the world, but it doesn't mean a hill of beans if you can't set it up in the dark. (Because at some point, you will be setting up your tent in the dark, in the rain, in some sort of adverse conditions. It happens. Be prepared.)
Practice with your gear, learn your gear. Learn your limits and your preferences.
Knowledge is easy to acquire, useful to have, and doesn't weigh anything, so pack a lot of it.
You're gonna want to get that experience on your cheap stuff, so you can learn and make mistakes without ruining some high-end piece of kit that's really gonna cost you. Get your experience in and add the expensive, fancier stuff as you go. I like to focus on pack, shelter, and shoes. They're going to be your main sources of weight and your big comfort items. Bad shoes and ill-fitting packs hurt. Insufficient shelters suck. Upgrading those early on, or starting with some mid-tier gear if you can afford it, is handy.
And if you decide that maybe this isn't for you, that's okay, too. You can back out without having dropped several thousand dollars on all the latest gear. It's easy to spend hundreds on fancy gear. Try to avoid falling into that trap.
It's probably ultralight heresy, but I often bring a cheap paperback book with me. Sure, it's sort of heavy for a luxury item that I don't need, and if it falls in a creek then my book is destroyed; I get that. However, for me, you can't beat hanging out in a comfy hammock under the trees with a good book. That serenity is why I go hiking and backpacking in the first place.
I also tell myself that if things ever go incredibly sour, a cheap book or a trail journal is also a good source of tinder and toilet paper. Not that I would do such things, but if I was ever stranded somewhere and I had to, the option is there. Similarly, you can signal other hikers or other people in your party if you have a trail journal - just pull out a page and leave a note for them.
Oh, and it's also wise to bring a couple of trash bags along with you. Get the big, kitchen sized ones.
They're great for:
| | | |
| holding trash | separating wet clothes | good laundry bags |
| dirty shoe mat | tent hole repair | emergency ponchos |
| emergency pack covers | food bag | extra warmth |
Oh, and remember the simple principles:
Pack it in, pack it out. - Any gear (or people) you bring, you're responsible for getting it (or them) back out.
Leave no trace. - You have a responsibility to leave your campsite as you found it, or better than you found it. Any trash you bring, you pack it right back out with you. If someone before you has been an asshole and has left a bunch of trash all over the campsite, try to clean it up, even if you can't pack it all out.
Hike your own hike. - This means that you can have all the excellent advice in the world, but how you do your hike is up to you. No one else can tell you how to live your life, and if you want to carry a little extra weight for a luxury item, or if you prefer a bit of kit that isn't quite in vogue this season, or if you can't afford the high-end, cuben fiber this or that, don't stress about it. You're out there to enjoy yourself, focus on that.
Be prepared. - This is the Boy Scout motto. Things will happen that you're not going to expect. Don't go overboard and don't get too crazy about it, but have a plan and know how to execute it. Learn the area you'll be at and know what sorts of conditions to expect. If you get hurt, know who you can call. If you're in a state or national park, those phone numbers are always on the freebie trail maps they provide - grab one at the ranger station or the trail head and keep it with you or keep a photo of it on your phone. Are you going to need extra batteries? Is your phone going to have service? If you can, sign up for a first aid course or a trail-specific first aid course. That's information you'll want to know if you ever need it.
This ultralight canister stove has been making the rounds lately, I've been pretty impressed with it. http://www.amazon.com/BRS-Ultralight-Camping-Outdoor-Cooking/dp/B00NNMF70U
The life straw and aquamira are both good choices. However I found that the life straw was overly bulky and large for the job it completes. Also I had two of the aquamira carbon elements break on me. My suggestion is to go with the sawyer mini - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FA2RLX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417445721&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Or the sawyer squeeze- http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EHPVQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417445858&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
(Sorry I don't know how to condense these links.)
If you look at their weight vs. Filtering capacity it's almost unbelievable. They weigh just ounces and it's something like 100,000 gallons for the mini and 1,000,000 gallons for the squeeze. Plus walmart sells these so they are never to far away. Best $20 I ever spent!
High-Vis version of this kit.
I'm not a fan of the Knife+Ferrocerium rod combos. The Mora Survival one specifically is more expensive than the counterparts purchased separately. I prefer purpose built strikers because trying to exercise mechanical force using something other than the business end of something sharp and pointy sounds like a recipe for injury. Plus, if you lose your knife you're fucked because now you don't have a striker.
Not pictured: the sharpener I keep with this kit. It's just a 6$ Arkansas stone I picked up at the local hardware store.
Olicamp mug/pot $12, 4oz weight, 20oz capacity
BRS 3000T Burner $15, 25g. It really is an amazing little micro stove.
Jetboil Flash LID This lid fits the Olicamp mug/pot perfectly! $6, plus shipping. About 1oz
A 100g canister fits perfectly inside, plus the BRS and a bic. The jetboil lid fits securely and keeps everything together.
Ditch the canteen.. carry your water in 1L and/or 750ml smartwater/lifewater bottles. Seriously. It’s durable, and weighs significantly less.
What about these?
Last year I picked up this stove. Light as all getout and works well.
I also purchased zelph's fancee feast stove, but have yet to try it out at high elevation. This guy swears by his custom one though.
It's actually a .1
In that case, I'd recommend going as light-weight as you can. A set like the one in the photo will be fine for car camping, but too heavy for backpacking, especially multi-day. Here's what I take when backpacking:
Toaks titanium 700ml pot
BRS ultralight gas stove
Toaks titanium folding spork
And a 4 or 8oz gas canister like this one, depending on how long I'll be going for. Don't get the gas canisters online though, get them at a camping or outdoors store, they'll be cheaper.
Honestly, that's all I need for solo backpacking. If you're backpacking with other people, you would maybe need a bigger pot (like 800 or 900ml), but I prefer to use the smaller one and make batches of food if need be. If I'm going car camping, I can bring more stuff as needed (cups, mugs, bowls, etc).
You don't need to get the exact items I have, but basically just ask for a simple, ideally ultralight gas canister stove, cooking pot (ideally titanium, not stainless steel), and a lightweight spork.
I also don't think you need tupperware unless you're car camping. When I backpack, I bring primarily dried foods that require not much cooking (asian style noodles, oatmeal, couscous, etc), and augment with some packaged tuna or chicken (in a bag, not a can) and spices. You can browse through /r/trailmeals for inspiration on cooking while camping.
Titanium mug and a mini gas burner? Then buy your own butane in Reykjavik.
The smallest 100g canister will be good for 15-20 cups of smoking hot coffee.
I have a straw filter in my bug out bag, but for home I keep this one around.
I also have some water purification tablets.
I honestly haven't tried any of the freeze dried food yet, need to do that! Canned food rotation is good, but we don't really eat much canned food regularly, so doesn't work too great for us. We try to eat as much fresh / local produce & meats as possible.
Someone here in r/ultralight said the BRS 3000 simmers well. I have one but have not tried it. However, for $16 it might be worth buying and trying out yourself.
Cooking over a stove is much easier than on a fire, you have a lot more control over what and how hot you can cook, saying that I'm often known to bring steaks on the first night of a trip and cook them on the fire.
Assuming you're talking about hiking trips, if you're after something thats cheap and will do the trick there's this $9 stove on Amazon there's also the BRS3000T which IMO is a better stove.
Cookware is going to depend on what you're wanting to cook
Currently my setup is the BRS-3000T, TOAKS Ti Light 650mL titanium pot, Sea to Summit Long Spoon and a little foil windshield. I also have a Jetboil Minimo, MSR Whisperlite International too, but for just starting out I wouldn't go with either of those.
Can someone recommend a cheap pair of rings for me (US)? I currently have a one of these to hook them to.
I like this one. It can do a little damage to the trim though so I always fold two socks in half and put them down between the bar and both sides of the trim. The main thing I like about this one... see those neutral grip deals? You can hang rings on them really easy... so there you go, dips, rows, pullups, whatever. I've got a friend who ordered his rings from here. He got the black plastic ones, and they work just fine... so there you go. Rings + pullup bar for $57... a little over your budget, but pretty close. Sometimes you can find those iron gym bars locally for cheaper if you hunt around a bit too. I'm 200 and a training friend of mine is 230, and it's held up fine so weight-wise you're good to go.
I recommend using this. It's basically the same routine as you posted but has warm ups included and videos, so it's a little better. :) It's what I've been using for the past two months.
Anyway, your questions:
/u/ideograph is right for 1 and 2 Except that rest periods should match your goals. < 90s rest is best for endurance, < 3 minutes is best for hypertrophy and 3-5 is best for strength.
For 3. The video is what you should be doing. You can start off by using doors - the /r/bodyweightfitness FAQ has a fair amount about that. A pull-up bar can also be used like the one you linked. Or, if you get one that doesn't need to be attached to the door frame like this then you'd need something tall to put your legs on.
Do you mean something like this?
I'd add a pullup bar to this. You can get one that slips easily into a door frame for not to much. The Iron Gym works well for me (granted, I weigh about 120 pounds--I'd advise against this for a heavier person). It's pretty difficult to access a lot of the muscle groups you can target through pullups from using just floor upper-body excercises.
This works great for me.
This is the one I have. Got it on Amazon (it has Prime if you're wondering). Removable, installs in seconds, assembly will probably take you all of 5 minutes. Put it somewhere where you pass through a lot, and then do pull-ups every time you pass.
Oh no!! I think I got it off Amazon and the brand is pro fit iron gym https://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=profit+iron+gym+pull+up+bar&amp;qid=1550542532&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
well its not one of those that you install. Its one of those that uses your body weight to cling on to the wall, so when you jump up to do negative pullups, at the very top you can make it fall off.
like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540470847&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Pull-Up+Bars&amp;dpID=31on-yLI1AL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Great investment for when I was getting started. You can snag it for ~$25 on Amazon. Multiple grips and you can use it for pull ups, chin ups, crunches, dips, and push ups.
I would put it in the doorway for my room and every time I go in or out of the room I did pull-ups until failure. Now that I'm at the gym often I don't use it as much, but it will definitely last.
Iron Gym Total Upper Body Workout Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iAeuzb8C0MKY6
Pull up bars are dirt cheap, buy one. Good lighting or not I can see your abs. I bulked with pretty much the same body fat as you, 30lbs later and I'm still relatively lean. You have nothing to worry about.
Also, keep in mind that body weight training is less efficient than lifting weights so be patient. You can still build plenty of muscle but it won't be as fast as a good weight training program.
Just get any bar that hangs on the lip of the door frame like this one. They're all the same, you can probably get a different brand for $20, and even cheaper on Craigslist.
I just got this one. Works beautifully, doesn't require any screws or installation stuff.
Fits quite well in the doorway of my apartment, which was formerly a dorm room. Very small. Should work in pretty much any size doorway, though.
Can you get one of these movable doorway pull up bars? My boyfriend has one and it’s surprisingly sturdy
Most BWF folks around here recommend AGAINST starting with rings, due to the instability and risk of injury for a beginner. Get a pull up bar. http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K
I think the best advice to be given to high school people is just to CHILL. When I went there, there was a lot of social pressure to fit in and get to know whatever. But I think the best thing I could have done was not care. And I say not care meaning like okay, so you have more friends... how does that then make me inferior? Yea, you can meet girls there, but you can also meet girls after high school. If you know you are cool, then you don't really have to worry about these other things.
I didn't have many friends in high school. My friend pool actually vanished and I had to move into a new group. I still keep in touch with some of these guys to this day. It was cool to have a group, but life moves on and changed a whole bunch after high school.
I don't think you should see games as an enemy or an obstacle that prevents you from having a social life, but just think of it as something you do. What makes you social is really who you are and that is a sum of everything you do and believe in. The other half is who you are interacting with. They might not be social... then it's not really you then.
I guess I feel like the odd one here because I still do play games, but I'm subscribed to this forum. I play games and 99% of the people I run into do not know what I play or don't play games. That's fine. It's an activity that I enjoy that makes me competitive or enjoy content. I don't see it that much different than say being stuck on a good TV series like Breaking Bad. I don't think it's really playing games that is bad, but an addiction to it that is the case. If you are pushing away friends, family and opportunities to game, then it should be a concern.
So I would make sure you have your basics down. Get your grades up, eat well and keep it cool with parents and such. I would go ahead and buy these:
These are one of the best purchases I have ever made. Just buy them and use them time to time. I do pull ups and push ups here and there and I look pretty decent. I'm not a walking bulge of muscle, but it builds some and I don't look lanky. BUY THEM. They last a long time and are so much cheaper than a gym membership. You also want to throw in some running and squats as well.
It's pretty terrifying at lunch time when you go out to recess and there is nobody you meet with. Then you start freaking out... man I don't have friends... man I'm a loser, etc. I would try to find groups that you see people that share your interests with or find school clubs you can be around and hop into. One of the better things I found out was that in reality, EVERYONE is terrified at this age. When you realize that, you realize everything you fear is constructed and that it's really up to you to care or not. I still think having friends is better because it's more fun. Just calm down and be smart. Before you know it, you'll be the coolest guy you know.
Maybe your left wrist is too weak to do them properly? You aren't really supposed to be resting on your wrists during push-ups, you are supposed to be on your hands/fingers. That's the issue I have with one armed push ups at least.
If that's the case you can either do them on your fists, put one of these on the ground and do them using that, or get something like these until your wrists are strong enough. BWSG989 posted a good link to look at, wrist push-ups should help a lot.
I was wondering why you wouldn't rather get a door hanging pull bar? It states it supports up to 300 lbs.
It's smaller than what you're trying to build, you can put it away when needed, and it's probably only a few dollars cheaper (you can probably find it from craigslist/kijiji as well).
I love this bar. http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421618723&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=pull+up+bar&amp;pebp=1421618725271&amp;peasin=B001EJMS6K
Have these, love these: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Gym-Total-Upper-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K - make sure you read the FAQ in it's entirety to see if your doors will work with it. You need a specific kind of door, watch videos for examples.
for those saying they have no equipment.
dropping 25 bucks for a piece of equipment that can get every part of your upper body ripped is a great investment.
I just bought this and it can be easily brought down after use. Only thing is there is a small metal piece that you put behind the upper door jam. Hope this helps
Here are a couple of data points:
I bought an Iron Gym (one of those as-seen-on-TV things, except it doesn't suck), ~$20 from Amazon about two weeks ago. It's solid. My wife could only do 1.5 pull ups when it arrived. Now she can do five. I could do 15 reps when we got the bar and I can still only do 15 in good form, but my recovery is much faster and I can do 3 sets of 15,13,12 reps every day, no problem now (whereas earlier I would be sore the next day, but not now). I'm definitely getting stronger and expect to be able to do 16 soon. My goal is 20.
16kg kettlebell (start with swings)
Door frame pull-up bar (start with negatives)
And two chairs on which you can do dips and decline push-ups
Not sure what the availability/pricing/shipping will be in Greece but I'll give it a shot and try to fit your budget or come close
Most of the Squat stands on Amazon have a 390 lb capacity, this one claims to have a 200kg capacity for $65.99 (USD) :
You could probably save some money if you get just a flat bench, I can highly recommend the rep fitness one(this one is a bit more expensive) , but if you want incline I'd say the titan adjustable bench is good for the price $114 and a 650 lb capacity
Pullup Bar for $25 with a 300 lb capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pTQtybE7R7S4Z
As for a barbell, I know you are into powerlifting, so if you are willing to raise your budget I'd recommend the Rouge Ohio power bar ($250), it's solid and will last. If the budget is tight, and since plates haven't been factored in yet I'd look for a weight set that comes with a barbell and then buy some extra 45s after. Might come with a shitty bar but if you're careful with it it might last for a while. This is something I'd recommend buying in person since shipping will kill your budget.
I left out the dumbells since Olympic pairs are kinda expensive and i wanted to leave plenty of room for plates, but if you need them there are a bunch on Amazon for $30 per db.
Also I'm not sure if Craigslist exists in Greece but if it does or if something similar exists I'd look for some good deals on there. Good luck
Iron Gym Total Upper Body Workout Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pl9xyb710Q1EA
This is the one that I own and it works well. Just make sure it's secure when you mount it, and try not to swing around too much. It doesn't cause any damage to the doorway, but it's less secure than bars that screw in.
Advice: do some minor resistance/endurance stuff even at home. Pushups, situps, and pullups using a bar like the one I have.
Your head, neck, and shoulders will have angles you never knew existed in a few weeks, not to mention the benefits to your arms, back, and core.
Good luck, and congrats!
Everyone always asks what is the best workout that can help with doing pull ups. And honestly, doing pull ups is the best way to work out to get better at pull ups. I would say just go buy a cheap pull up bar and throw it somewhere in your house. Like the entrance to your room. Do a couple pull ups every day. Hell, if you really want to be a pull up master, follow the Armstrong Pull Up Program.
well worth the money. 5 minute install. hang it on your door.
-In a distance of 30 yards, push off as hard as you can the first 5-6 steps before jogging the rest out, do this 5-10 times.
-Jump rope, fast, high, doubles, one foot, switch foot, just jump the rope
-Run as hard as you can for 1 minute, walk 1 minute, rinse and repeat for 20 minutes
Last golden eg! Everytime you workout, no matter what you're doing, perform this cycle 2-4 times as fast as you can- it'll make your body much more prepared to be a badass:
10 standing squats
And get yourself one of these so you can do many different push-ups and pull-ups: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Total-Upper-Body-Workout/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1334087513&amp;sr=8-1
I have both, the one op wants and this top voted one
both are good, but the one that you want, op, I like much better, as it has the perfect width for me.
I think I'm understanding the question and I'm in the same boat. I workout in my unfinished basement and have no access to doors there. So what I did was get 2 of these hooks (you can get nicer colors than red if you want).
I got a pull-up bar that looks like this but was under $20 at Walmart. I put the hooks so they hook under the horizontal bar that you don't use to pull-up on (the part that's supposed to go behind your doorframe), on the inside as far apart as they go. Then you can easily take the bar down when you're not using it. It works great but I'm not sure if it will be cosmetically pleasing to you, having 2 hooks there when you're not using it, it's not an issue in my basement for me.
I hope that helps, if it sounds even remotely like what you're looking for I can take a picture when I get home if my explanation fell short.
Any way to mount a pullup bar (like this or this) in your home? Back in college I mounted one in my apartment in the frame between the kitchen and living room, and would do pullups each time I passed. I went from only being able to do a few chinups to knocking out 20 pullups in a set. I don't remember how long it took me, but I was only in that place for about a year. So it wasn't long.
Now I only do pullups a couple days a week in the gym, and even though I'm overall stronger than I was back then, I can't do nearly as many.
Honestly, what's worked for me is Pavel Tsatsouline "Greasing The Groove" technique. I have one of these and used to walk by it and just do a couple chin ups/pull ups and hanging inversions. After a few months of just mucking around on it, I wanted to see what I could do, and am now capable of doing 5 sets of 12 chin ups, and 5 sets of 9-10 on pull ups. Slowly working up to 5 sets of 20 on both, but it is coming.
I bought one of these a few years back and would just do pull-ups / chin-ups every time I came back to my room. Within weeks, I had gone from 1-2 reps to ~10. Greasing the groove definitely works and is endlessly satisfying as you continue to improve.
I used this for a long time.
LPT: Just use it for pullups, not the other crap they try to claim it does.
Inverted Rows and pullups are some of the best upper body exercises you can do. If you don't do them, you CAN create muscle imbalances. You can buy an Iron Gym bar for about $25 for pullups. As for inverted rows, you can do them under a table or a desk, or you can hang straps from the pullup bar to do them
There are usually pull up bars you can use at schools or parks, but if not, get one of these.
This is my bench
EZ Curl bar
Tricep pull down rope
I realized I needed more discipline in the gym, so I found this suggestion from someone over in /r/fitness: Jim Stoppani's 6 Week Shortcut to Shred. I've basically been doing that for the past month minus the cardio in between sets because I'm already skinny. I have also started working out with a buddy so that we can hold each other accountable. If you are struggling to gain weight check out /r/gainit. I honestly don't pay super close attention to what I eat, I just try my best to eat healthy, and lots of it. I do suggest getting some protein powder, I'd say that's probably the most important thing to supplement. I use the chocolate Gold Standard by Optimum Nutrition. I also throw in some peanut butter because its a really cheap source of calories, and sometimes a banana. I try to have at least two shakes a day; one right when waking, and one after my workout. I also bought this and highly recommend it. Seriously, whenever I felt the urge I would do pull ups/push ups.
I know how hard it can be to gain weight. I graduated high school at around 120lbs. I've gained since then and my normal weight was low 140s naturally. I still lose a few pounds if I don't eat properly for a day or two which is really frustrating. That routine is pretty strenuous. If you want something that requires less time check out starting strength in /r/fitness. It's basically squats, deadlifts, and bench press. I also started working out legs, which I never did before, and I think that has helped me a lot. All in all I spend probably an hour in the gym 5 days a week.. So I'm there frequently, and luckily I'm at a point in my life where I'm able to take an hour out of each day to do this. Let me know if there is any other way I can help or elaborate on. Feel free to pm me if need be.
Iron Gym Total Upper Body Workout Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EJMS6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cz6cBbH2E5RR9
TRX Training - Suspension Trainer Basic Kit + Door Anchor, Complete Full Body Workouts Kit for Home and on the Road https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YRB35I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YA6cBbYQW1CK3
URBNFit Exercise Ball (55 CM) for Stability & Yoga - Workout Guide Incuded - Professional Quality (Pink) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019730QQI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JB6cBb7XZWP9Y
A pair of 20 pound dumbbells.
My apartment doesn't have a gym either, so I just work out in my room with these. There are a ton of resources online for workout routines so Google and Reddit are your friend.
If you can't drop 150 on the straps, just buy the other 3 items. That'll get you started. And remember...
\u\polynesianenglishman, he's referring to one like this. I have one of these as well, and it's amazing. Just keep at it and you'll be doing big sets eventually. I was able to go from maybe 2 in a row at the beginning of a semester to doing 3 sets of 20 by the end of the semester, by making sure I hit it every other day. It's all just consistency, perseverance, and understanding that almost imperceivably small day to day gains add up to big progress over a couple of months.
Get a pullup bar and do toes to bar and L-sits and pullups and planches hanging from the bar. The "captains chair" involves isolating a portion of your body. If your goal is bodyweight ability, compound interaction is going to be better than isolation, in most cases.
I have that pull up bar you need to attach the brackets to the door jam to make sure it's secure. I used a drill to make it easier and faster but I can imagine you can do it with a screwdriver it's just going to take quite a bit of effort. 3 screw's on each side about 1.5 inches each. You may get away without screwing it in but i wouldn't do it. Why not try this if your worried about holes http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EJMS6K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396272133&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
I was in the same wagon as you in my senior year, I could bench 295 but could barely do 4 pull ups and couldn't run a mile and now I can do 13 pull ups. When I went to MEPs they didn't even do the partial IST on me because the liaison "just wanna go home man", and just asked me how much I think I could do. Correct me if i'm wrong but you only need 2 pull ups and 44 sit ups to enlist into the DEP. But really pullups are easy to increase. Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EJMS6K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and also here you go http://armstrongpullupprogram.com/
You've made some really good progress. Here's what I would do if I were you:
Hope this helps.
I'm using Iron Gym on a very weak frame and I've found the bar to have surprisingly little vertical pull. The majority of the force is pushed towards the doorframe (beware of dents).
Agreed. I have an pulled bar that works as other stuff too, but I noticed that pullups/chinups give great defining results. That with dips and pushups gave me a good defined back and chest, but I think hitting arms and legs is much harder without using weights.
Buy a pull up bar. This one works well assuming you have a regular door to hang it:
Start with the inside grip where your knocking knuckles will face towards each other and then experiment with the other pull up grips later, ultimately doing a combination of all different pull-ups during your workouts. After you complete a set of pull-ups, move to a set of pushups. You're going to do three sets to fail. You may not be able to do one at first. Just get used to pulling up and trying to get your body a bit higher each time. The most important thing is to DO THESE TO FAIL. Afterwards have a snack or a meal. I like to line up my workouts right before dinner.
Get a pull up bar!
And I second both recommendations made by /u/I_am_the_Batgirl.
It's silly to spend extra for a beater bar with the Rogue name. Just get a regular beater bar.
The Cap OB-86B on Amazon is pretty reputable at $140.
Edit: missed the section about preferring a women's bar... My bad! The following is the general consensus of this board from previous posts...
The best budget bar is the cap ob-86b, especially if you can get it for south of 100 bucks.
For a rack and bench, I don't know, but the bar and bumpers, yup, I gotcha. If you're only using bumper weights, you might not need the stall mats.
I have this barbell. Works just fine. Doesn't have a center knurl, if that matters to ya.
I went with these bumper plates, which have held up well. $80 for a 45 lb, shipped; they were the cheapest I found, as well.
If you're not looking to purchase second hand, I would recommend this rack:
It's probably the cheapest rack with acceptable gauge steel among the crap being sold in Canada right now and the configuration of it being a Rogue clone is superb. $550+tax.
If you don't plan on doing olympic lifts, I would recommend the CAP OB-86B. Great beginner bar and probably the only one worth getting in the price range. Placed in high regards among many home-gymers. Otherwise, drop $300+ for a higher end bar that will last you a long time. This bar will be good up til 500lbs.
If you find a decent barbell let me know.
I want the American Barbell california bar, they ship to the UK but it doubles it's price and I can't really justify paying that much for shipping.
Rougue have a distribution center in Europe so the ohio bar is an option, might go this route.
Hell, I think even this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001K4OPY2 is better than the crap that's easily available in the UK.
A great beginner bar for $200 or less is the CAP OB-86B. It's actually on sale right now on amazon for $109.
If you're in the US you can get a decent beginner squat rack from Amazon or Walmart for $250-350. Building your own only to replace it will cost a lot more in the end and take an awful lot of time.
As for the bar, if you buy a decent one now you can keep it forever, or until you become a hulk. From what I can tell, the CAP OB-86B seems to generally be considered the best bang for your buck. It's currently available for $138 shipped at Amazon.
How far are you from Calgary or Edmonton? https://www.fitnessdepot.ca/H11OTO1027676/store-locator?prov=AB
I'd highly recommend calling both stores getting quotes and seeing what they can do for you.
For $850 I'm sure you can get the squat stands with safeties. And at least a set of 405Lb.
I think this cap barbell - CAP OB86 is the go to starter for more people on the sub
If you want a full rack check out Bells of Steel u/kvgravy
No need to drop $250 right now, this bar from CAP will suit your needs just fine. There's no better value out there right now.
I got 480 lbs of weight off craigslist for less than $100.
I paid about $130 for this bar.
I have both the valor bd-7 power rack+dip handles as well as the FG pro utility bench. They're solid, budget pieces of equipment, offer good bang for your buck, and get the job done. Both the rack and bench are more lightweight than other options out there, but as long as you won't outgrow their weight capacities, they should be fine (I think 500 lbs for the rack and 600 lbs, weight and user combined, for the bench). Keep in mind, the lat pulldown gets in the way of incline benching inside the rack. If that's going to be a problem, you can elect to get just a rack without a lat pulldown and attach something like this for pulley work. There are definitely more luxurious options out there in terms of racks, like ones from Rogue (and they have the option of a bunch of cool attachments) but it all depends on your budget and goals. There are some flaws to the rack, like the storage pegs getting in the way of benching inside the rack when loaded with plates (I ended up removing the top pegs and am thinking about moving the pegs to the front by switching the front and back posts so I can actually store plates on the pegs). Overall, the rack gets the job done for me and I like having the option to do pulley work. Here's a thread on the bench that helped me decide on buying it. Definitely happy about it, especially at the price I got it for. Dick's always has 10% off when you sign-up for emails here. At the time, I was able to stack the 10% with a 20% off coupon to get the bench for $140.77 after tax and free in-store pick up.
I got a package that included the triceps rope and single handle here for $21 that are working fine if you want to save some money on attachments.
If you're interested in doing olympic lifts farther down the road, this barbell is generally considered the best bang for your buck barbell and comparable to more expensive options out there. It all depends on your needs, the Dick's set might work just fine.
Let me know if you have any questions.
As far as cheap bars goes, it's hard to beat the OB86B. It's a standard 7' bar, but I doubt that a 5' bar would fit in your rack. You might want to try to rearrange your rack to give you more width.
That bar is pretty junky, but you're basically getting it for free with the weights. It'll get you started and you can upgrade that later if you get serious about it. It'll also give you a beater/landmine/superset bar in the future if you upgrade.
Chances are, if you got the $95 one you would probably end up wanting to upgrade it anyways.
this one is is a decent starter bar (they have one for $120 as a warehouse deal, which is how I bought mine). It has decent, but not great bushings and ribbed sleeves so the plates and clamps stay on better. The sleeves are also held on by a circlip instead of pinned like the cheaper ones. The bar isn't nearly as strong as some of the better and newer bars, but it's still pretty good and a lot better than those cheaper ones. The knurling isn't that aggressive, but it's much better than most cheap bars. It also has a black oxide finish on the bar.
Black oxide is one of my favorite finishes. Unlike Zink plated, chrome, or ceratoke the black oxide doesn't take away from the sharpness of the knurling. They dunk the bar in a bath of nitrates ect. and it creates a very thin (I believe only a few millionths of an inch) oxidized layer that does an ok job of warding off rust. It can still rust and it's not as durable as other finishes, but it'll feel very much like a bare steel, or stainless steel bar, which imo are the best feeling.
You should also check out titan fitness and maybe rep fitness. They might have comparable bars.
That power rack is a really solid choice. It should be compatible with most of Rogue's accessories/attachments because it has the same dimensions as a certain Rogue rack. I would stay away from that bench and purchase a used one from a better brand (Body Solid, Parabody, Parabody Serious Steel, Body Masters, etc.) on craigslist for the same price or way cheaper. I'd also recommend purchasing all your plates used through craigslist for 50-60 cents/lb. The CAP OB-86B is a good choice for a barbell.
Mmmm, this is again exactly why I made this post.
I was on the fence about the 31mm thickness as well.
Thanks for the input =)
I'm constantly changing my list and Im saving so much money and the quality of product is also staying where I want.
I am sure these will meet your needs quite well:
CAP Beast Bar - $140:
Xmark EZ Curl - $80:
T-3 squat rack? Yes. Their adjustable bench is fairly new, but just like every other product they sale, it's a clone of someone else's product, in this case it looks like a clone of an already fairly cheap cap barbell/fitness gear bench. Like I said it's fairly new to market so there's not really a consensus on wether or not it's worth having. Even if you do go with the bench ( how bad can it be? ), I'd avoid the barbell, even though it appears to have snap rings, I can't imagine them making a quality bar. Here's my next purchase : http://www.vulcanstrength.com/The-One-Basic-Bar-Vulcan-Olympic-Barbell-p/v1basbar.htm , 28mm, hard chrome coating and free shipping. Or if you're looking for more of a power bar, this one is fairly popular value choice: https://www.amazon.com/CAP-Barbell-Olympic-1000-Pound-Capacity/dp/B001K4OPY2
When shopping online for plates and other bars, the 1 inch is sold as standard while the 2 inch is sold as olympic.
I've had no issues with this bar.
The bar is shit. You can get a much better bar on Amazon for the same price.
Currently just started working out again recently. I currently have
fitness reality squat rack/bench
CAP 7ft Olympic bar
powerblock elite dumbbels
CAP ez curl bar
Goal: I'm skinny being 6'2 and weighing 140lbs. My goal is to get calves and biceps. When I used to go to the gym all the time. I used to enjoy using their cables to do lat pull downs, standing pull downs etc.
So I'm stuck between a cable machine or maybe something that can workout my calves like a sitting calf raises matchine
I literally just bought the Titan Rack w/ dip bar - very happy with it and with free shipping you can't beat the price.
You can skip the spotter arms since the rack comes with safety pins - as long as you squat in the rack the pins will have your back.
I wouldn't get that bar from Dick's due to the low weight limit. I bought the $150 CAP bar from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001K4OPY2?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00).
I sourced all of my weights from Craigslist as I didn't want to spend more than $1.25/lb for them and many places bumper weights go for $1.50-$1.75/lb. I spent $1.25/lb for a few bumper plates and < $1/lb for some steel weights.
I got four 4'x6'x3/4" horse mats from a local feed store for $40/each.
With weights and everything I'm in for $900 but I haven't gotten a bench yet.
A barbell, bumper plates, and a rack will break that couple-hundred bucks alone. You'll definitely need those. I suggest building your own plyo boxes if you can, the standard ones are surprisingly expensive.
Yeah No prob mate Gear from head to toe:
Tactical Tailor TTRAC plate carrier
AR500 Lighweight Level III+ Curved Buildup Coat plates front and back
Tactical Tailor roll up dump bag
AR500 Emergency Personal Injury Kit
Circle 10 Bulgarian waffle magazines
For those that are not familiar with the mag pouches:
HSG TACO single rifle magazine pouches x3
HSG TACO double rifle magazine pouches
I originally had these:
Tactical Tailor 5.56 triple magazine pouch
Tactical Tailor 5.56 double mag pouch
They were replaced by the TACO pouches because AK mags did not fit well. I did steal their bungee cords to make the retention straps to hold the bottom of the mags from tilting forward.
Tactical Tailor backpack (Comes with attachment points for the vest and shoulder straps)
Tactical Tailor admin pouch (mounted to the back of the backpack)
Tactical Tailor 5.56 double mag pouch (mounted to the side of the bag)
If you work in a loud environment it doesn't matter what age you are. I had my left ear drum blown out when I was 22 by unfortunately firing a 50cal way to many times. Why not invest into hearing protection?
These are amazing because you can hear someone whisper while blocking out damaging audio at the same time.
Do these look good? My friend had us use them, but we also added foam earplugs under them when firing his AR-15. Is that what you mean by foamies?
Do I need some kind of special brush or tool with the CLP cleaner? Thanks for all the help!