(Part 2) Best guitar tools according to redditors

Your neck will "move" a little with changes in heat and humidity, but not so much as to go from playable to unplayable.

Order this kit.. It has everything you need to do your own setups when you change your strings. There are lots of other tools out there that can help, but this is the basic set to get you started.

Here is what I consider the bare necessities:

Radius block: Get one with the radius to match your fretboard. Attach self-adhesive sandpaper or use double-sided tape, mark your frets with a Sharpie, and start leveling.

Fret crowning file: Pick one that's the appropriate size for your frets. You can find info on what size to use on Stew Mac's site.

Needle files: These are just good to have. They'll be helpful to file the fret ends among other things.

Extra fine sandpaper/0000 steel wool: Once your frets are shaped, you will want to polish them. Steel wool won't give you the shiniest finish, but it's perfectly presentable. If you want mirror-finish frets, use fine sandpapers or fret erasers. ALWAYS mask your pickups or do your fretting with the neck detached from the body. You will end up with fret filings and steel wool particles all over your pups otherwise.

For tutorials and advice, check out r/Luthier or the Crimson Guitars YouTube channel.

Well, if they're all doing it, then they all need a proper set up from top to bottom, but you should learn to do it yourself. Thankfully, you have one of each of the most common types of guitars/bridges out there, so you'll learn to set up virtually any guitar you come across.

To do set ups, you'll need a few basic tools, but they'll cost less than a single set up for just one of your guitars. All you really need is a notched straight edge, a fret rocker, feeler gauges, some allen keys and screwdrivers, a good plug-in tuner and a small metal ruler capable of measuring in 64ths of an inch/millimeters (the Ibanez multi-tool is a great gizmo that's like the Swiss Army knife of guitar techs and contains all of the most common allen keys, screwdrivers, truss rod nut wrench and a ruler). You can get all you need for about $50-$60 US.

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Notched-Straight-Edge-ROCKER/dp/B00O6KT5HO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519439907&sr=8-5&keywords=Notched+Straight+edge&dpID=41meBDYMqoL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Ibanez-Quick-access-MTZ11-Guitar/dp/B00F4SDYNS/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1519439935&sr=1-1&keywords=Ibanez+multi+tool



As you've noticed, some of your guitars don't have individual saddles, like a Strat (just one of its many superior design features). On your LP, you can only adjust the overall action on the bass or the treble side by using the thumb screws under the bridge. I'm assuming the Tele has the "vintage" saddles where each saddle holds two strings. Again, you can sort of adjust the action of each string by raising one side of the saddle, or the other, but it's not very precise and you have to find a compromise between the two. The same goes for intonating the strings. The Gretch probably has a bridge similar to the LP, but I'd need a pic to be sure.

The good news is that it's not really the humidity. I live in Florida, in the US, and it's as hot and humid as anywhere and my guitars are just fine. The only time humidity really becomes much of an issue is when there are large swings and/or during the winter when you use lots of artificial, indoor heating which severely dries out the ambient air.

Generally speaking, the order of the steps are all the same for each type of guitar, but you'll need slightly different methods to adjust the action/intonation based on the type of bridge is on the guitar.

Steps:

1. remove all strings an give the guitar a good inspection and cleaning
   
   
2. make the neck perfectly level using the notched straight edge.
   
   
3. use the fret rocker to check for any high frets and file them down as necessary.
   
   
4. install new string and take note of the gauge you're using, then use that same gauge going forward.
   
   
5. check the relief in the neck by using a capo on the first fret while fretting the low E string at the 15th or 17th fret. With your free hand, check the relief at the 7th fret using a feeler gauge. Set the neck to the factory spec at first then tweak as needed. Most guitars have a relief of about .010" between the top of the 7th fret and the underside of the low E string. The feeler gauge should just barley make contact between the two. If it slide in without making contact, tighten the truss rod nut by turning it CW in 1/4-1/2 turns then re-check.
   
   
6. With the relief set, you can now set the action. Remove the capo and check the string height at the 12th fret by measuring from the top of the fret to the underside of the string. Again, start by using the factory specs. Most guitars have action at about 4/64th-5/64th, or about 1.5mm. On a Strat, you can set each string individually using this method, but on the other models, like the LP, you can only set the height on the Low E and the High E strings by using the thumb screws and allowing the other strings to be where they end up. Regardless, of the model, be sure to slacken the strings a bit before you adjust the action, then re-tune and re-check the string height.
   
   
7. With the action and relief set up, you can now adjust the intonation. Start by plucking the open string and getting it perfectly in tune with a good, non-clip-on tuner. Once set, play the 12th fret harmonic, it should also be in tune. Finally, fret the string at the 12th fret using normal playing pressure. If it's flat, the string is effectively too long, so you'll want to move the saddle forward. If it's sharp, the string is too short, so you'll need to move the saddle back. Make small adjustments and constantly check and re-check after each alteration.
   
   I know it sounds like a lot, but it's really not that bad. Just a bit tedious. However, once you get your guitars dialed in, they'll be good to go from here on out.
   
   Check out Dave's World of Fun Stuff on YouTube, as well. He's a super funny Canadian with tons of tips and tricks for setting up, repairing and maintaining your axe.
   
   Holler if you have any more questions.

I have the Prog 7. The bridge is a major pain in the ass to tune... if you don't block it. If you put a block (can be anything, a stack of index cards, a piece of wood) and tune the strings, then remove the block then tuning is piece of cake.

I was almost ready to throw the towel until I figured out that trick (it's all over the place on youtube). If you want the tremolo then go for it. Only suggestion I have to make it more manageable is to install this instead of claw that comes with from the factory:

https://www.amazon.com/Schaller-Sure-Claw/dp/B00XD83918

I had no issues whatsoever installing it (just be careful and drill pilot holes) and it makes it so much easier to adjust the tension of all strings at one (useful when adjusting for temperature for example).

I'm not sure if prices for repair work are just high in my area, but if I want an actual luthier (not GC) to swap out the nut here it's $95-120 plus parts. It looks like I can get mid-grade nut files suited for my string gauges for $67, and sanding blocks etc I already have from other projects. Do you think this set would be sufficient for the work?

I used a set of filed-down nippers, but actual fret pullers are cheap.

I recommend gluing in a thin piece of maple to fill the fret slots instead of wood filler, it's a bit more work but keeps the neck a bit more consistent and looks great. The maple veneer business card blanks from Lee Valley were dirt cheap and worked perfectly when I defretted my Yamaha. I used a printable radius gauge to find the neck radius and also used it to cut the maple cards to fit the radiused fret slots. A flexible flush-cut saw makes cutting off the excess maple a breeze, any cheap one will do, I used the inexpensive Stanley model.

Sanding can be tricky. I discovered my fingerboard had a significant bump that needed to be sanded down, so I ponied up and ordered a radius sanding block from StewMac - no regrets, it made the sanding process very easy and extremely consistent, much better than I had been doing by hand. You don't need the fancy adhesive sandpaper they sell, just use regular half-sheets and hold it with your fingers.

If you are going to be using flats or tapewounds, you don't really need a finish on the fingerboard wood - just sand down fine (I stopped at 400-grit) and maybe add a couple light coats of mineral oil. If you desire to use roundwounds on a fretless, you may need to look into a CA or epoxy finish to prevent wear.

Don't forget you'll need to adjust your nut. I sanded down the bottom side of the nut to bring all the strings closer to the fingerboard an even amount and it worked fine, but filing the slots would also do the trick. Secure the nut with a small drop of Elmers glue once you've got the height right and you'll be in good shape.

Setting up your bass is easy if you have the tools. I have a six string so I run a relief of .015 a string height of between 4/64ths and 5/64ths at the 24th fret. If you play hard you will probably want to be higher like 6/64th.

This guy suggests some

https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/how-to-set-up-a-bass/

But you really only need these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS69756

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07594N814

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG29EYI

I check all my basses before the gig and bring the tools with me because North Carolina has some crazy temp/humidity swings.

Once you get it setup and are used to it, you will instantly when it's off and how to fix it.

When tapping it will be especially problematic. I guess a solidbody with a fixed bridge would be most resistant to the sympathetic vibrations.

You're not the only one who has struggled with this:

http://www.scottymoore.net/dampers.html

You can use a hair band or rubber band or buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Gruv-Gear-FretWraps-3-Pack-String/dp/B00FNEBSR2

You can slide it past the nut when you don't need it.

People disagree on what is "The" method for balancing spring/string tension, but I recommend you give the following method a try.

I'm going to give you some links that explain the use of a blocking wedge to set the angel of the FR bridge, tune the guitar, then adjust the springs.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYcGmMJnX0M&feature=youtu.be&t=213

https://skyscraperguitars.com/store#!/Trem-Wedge-Floating-Tremolo-Setup-Blocks/p/75945611/category=25043259

https://www.amazon.com/Floyd-Rose-Floating-Tremolo-Blocks/dp/B075XDB1D8

(scroll down about 75% on the following page)

https://fretmechanic.wordpress.com/tag/floyd-rose-setup/

http://www.strangeguitarworks.com/floyd-rose-tips-and-tricks/

Questions?

anche i miei atrezzi per chitarre son finiti in mano a quei ciarlatani, che tra l'altro sono gli unici che non salgono in ufficio.

nel caso qualcuno fosse interessato

On a side not that kit is fucking hella expensive and you don't even have nut files. Here is what I purchased for my setup kit.

https://www.amazon.com/StewMac-Gauged-Slotting-Electric-Strings/dp/B06XB1NS2X/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527801980&sr=1-1&keywords=stewmac+nut+file

https://www.amazon.com/String-Action-Forever-direct-Electric-Acoustic/dp/B00ZI3OQC2/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527802028&sr=1-4&keywords=guitar+string+gauge+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Winder-Multifunction-Instrument-Accessories/dp/B079FMH1SJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527802048&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=guitar+cutter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Set%EF%BC%8C30-Master-Measuring-Luthier/dp/B07594N814/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527802066&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=feeler+gauge+for+guitar&psc=1

Honestly the nut files are one of the most important parts I can grab feeler gauges and wire cutters from any dept store. The guitar specific measuring tool is not needed, just a nice to have.

Guitar strings need changing every few weeks, so it's really something you should learn to do yourself. It's really very easy if you follow an online tutorial. You don't need any tools to do it, but I would recommend investing in a bridge pin puller - it's easy to scratch up your bridge if you use pliers or a teaspoon. A pair of wirecutters are also useful, or you can just go old-school and coil up the loose ends.

Thanks for the help, especially about the budget tools!

I don't have access to anything that can cut metal (no shears or saws). So, I could buy a metal ruler at home depot, but would also have to buy a pair of metal shears. Should I just buy this luthier's tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Neck-Straight-Notched-Luthiers/dp/B00DALF966/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483312680&sr=8-1&keywords=guitar+neck+straight+edge

Also what do you think about this tool set:

https://www.amazon.com/Including-Fingerboard-Protector-Maintenance-Esdabem/dp/B01N5B7LKM/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1483313150&sr=1-4&keywords=leveling+tool+frets

and this tool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GH436CQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3M7ATO72KRMP6

If you wanna drop some cash, something like this should work perfectly. It's just a straightedge with notches in it for frets.

If you're a cheap bastard like me, though, and would like to avoid dropping $24 for a straightedge, you could get any run-of-the-mill straightedge (provided it's actually straight), and cut your own notches in it with a dremel or something.

As you describe it as rubbery maybe simething like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QTRWTG6

https://www.amazon.com/StewMac-Erasers-Abrasive-Polishing-Fretwire/dp/B01HUCME8G

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D4JQ3KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could DIY lyric charts with a rubber stamp and find chords on the web.

Tabbing them out DIY-style helps with memorizing songs, too. I think playing tunes you like is a good way to stick with practicing, but so much of "sounding good" comes from that picking hand.

Feeler gages and a quality small ruler will go a long way. You can buy something like this to check your pick up height and clearances, and the proper feeler gages can be found at your local auto parts store. There's also radius gauges available so you can match your saddle heights to your neck radius correctly but that's not super important if your clearances are set properly.

Honestly the biggest problem is finding a quality straight edge. As in one that is 100% guaranteed perfect. StewMac has them for an insane high price but the alternative is rolling the dice with straight edges that aren't built to the same narrow margin of error. Here is the one I use, but fair warning that the reviews on it are mixed bag. Mine seems okay, but I'll never know for sure.