Best guitar tools according to redditors

It's called a fret wrap. Fret wraps are used by recording artists to help eliminate overtones and kill vibrations when they're not needed. As far as I understand, people who use the tapping technique like to use these because the tapping could get washed out by overtones and the like.

I understand and respect your opinion, but I think that the use of a tool that can give an easier route to greater artistry isn't a crutch or cheating. Personally, I would be much more inclined to use the word cheating if the artist were faking the performance in some way, but as far as we know they're not.

Your left hand shouldn't need to do a lot of work as far as finger strength on a bass. Get an action height tool and measure your string height at the 12th fret. Adjust bridge/truss rod as needed. I keep my action at about 1.5 mm or less, but I think "low action" is around 2-2.5 mm.

Sounds like you're playing acoustic; something like this may help: Planet Waves Screeching Halt Acoustic Soundhole Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010SHU18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Kt8Nzb5Y71T7P

In addition to that, you can get a set of these.

Learn to set up the guitar yourself. There’s a setup guide for Strats at Fender.com. Buy an action gauge and get to work. Save your money for a new guitar. Just be aware that Fender’s suggested measurements for action are a little optimistic (you aren’t going that low without a PLEK job).

Unless I'm missing something, that's a typical Gibson truss rod. They use an "acorn" nut, which is different to the more common hex wrench found on Fenders, PRS, etc. There's a handy tool you can buy that has a small screwdriver on one end to remove the TR cover, and a socket on the other to actually adjust the rod. Google "gibson truss rod wrench" and it'll pull up lots of sources (here's one made by Grover on Amazon for under $7 shipped.) You can also use any 5/16" socket wrench or nut driver that'll fit in the cutout.

One of these will sort out your feedback issue

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Planet-Waves-Screeching-Acoustic-Soundhole/dp/B0010SHU18/ref=asc_df_B0010SHU18/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310853155332&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12320903516801194255&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006736&hvtargid=pla-406644736535&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Saw a YT video about using a torch tip cleaning kit. It’s just a bunch of small files. I bought one (leas the $10) and used it a couple times. Seems to work pretty well for a home diy enthusiast. But then again, I’m new to shaping nuts and never used the expensive tools.

Video

Amazon

These hosa flat cables are great And cheap and will fit!

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Technology-Guitar-Tools-CFP-606/dp/B07KS37N3Y

I found this 6 pack for 10 bucks on ebay

Based on the description of your Strat, it sounds like it has the vintage 7.25" fretboard radius. String bending, especially in the higher registers, is know to be problematic on that fretboard radius for exactly the reasons you describe.

Essentially, you need to do a proper setup to try and lessen the problems you're describing. If you're unfamiliar, doing a setup on a Strat involves adjusting things like the truss rod for neck relief, the bridge/claws to determine how you want your tremolo setup, the action, the intonation, and the nut. In essence, everything that your strings touch that can affect how they function mechanically.

You can learn how to do this yourself even if you have no experience. Dan Erlewine has a great book to tackle just this sort of stuff called How to Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great and you can snag a used copy on Amazon for the price of a new set of strings, practically. StewMac, the company where he works and that sells supplies for guitar building, has also started releasing some very helpful YouTube videos on different aspects of the setup. You can also poke around r/Luthier for any tips you can find there (though there's a lot of shorthand that would be tough for a beginner to get into).

My advice to you would be to buy the book, read it over a weekend (it doesn't take long to get from cover to cover), buy a few tools to get the job done and learn how to setup your own guitars so you'll always be able to make sure they're in perfect playing condition and won't have to rely on your local Guitar Center.

Basic tools you'd need include either a pre-assemlbed kit if you want to go the expensive route or a few of the individual components from elsewhere:

• My advice would be to get the StewMac String Action Gauge (it's worth it going for this specific brand name here since it's higher quality and has better makrings than the ones you'll find on Amazon),
  
• Some small screwdrivers and wrenches that'll fit what you need (again, this set from StewMac is pricey but it's very good for its purposes, you can certianly find all the hex wrenches, etc elsewhere for less) if you don't have them,
  
• Some radius gauges (here's the set I have)
  
• A straightedge (not necessary, since you can use a string on the guitar and calipers or even an old guitar string to measure relief--but the straightedge does make things a lot easier)
  
  If you can install a stereo, hang a picture and put together a puzzle, you can set up your own guitar.

Well, if they're all doing it, then they all need a proper set up from top to bottom, but you should learn to do it yourself. Thankfully, you have one of each of the most common types of guitars/bridges out there, so you'll learn to set up virtually any guitar you come across.

To do set ups, you'll need a few basic tools, but they'll cost less than a single set up for just one of your guitars. All you really need is a notched straight edge, a fret rocker, feeler gauges, some allen keys and screwdrivers, a good plug-in tuner and a small metal ruler capable of measuring in 64ths of an inch/millimeters (the Ibanez multi-tool is a great gizmo that's like the Swiss Army knife of guitar techs and contains all of the most common allen keys, screwdrivers, truss rod nut wrench and a ruler). You can get all you need for about $50-$60 US.

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Notched-Straight-Edge-ROCKER/dp/B00O6KT5HO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519439907&sr=8-5&keywords=Notched+Straight+edge&dpID=41meBDYMqoL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Ibanez-Quick-access-MTZ11-Guitar/dp/B00F4SDYNS/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1519439935&sr=1-1&keywords=Ibanez+multi+tool



As you've noticed, some of your guitars don't have individual saddles, like a Strat (just one of its many superior design features). On your LP, you can only adjust the overall action on the bass or the treble side by using the thumb screws under the bridge. I'm assuming the Tele has the "vintage" saddles where each saddle holds two strings. Again, you can sort of adjust the action of each string by raising one side of the saddle, or the other, but it's not very precise and you have to find a compromise between the two. The same goes for intonating the strings. The Gretch probably has a bridge similar to the LP, but I'd need a pic to be sure.

The good news is that it's not really the humidity. I live in Florida, in the US, and it's as hot and humid as anywhere and my guitars are just fine. The only time humidity really becomes much of an issue is when there are large swings and/or during the winter when you use lots of artificial, indoor heating which severely dries out the ambient air.

Generally speaking, the order of the steps are all the same for each type of guitar, but you'll need slightly different methods to adjust the action/intonation based on the type of bridge is on the guitar.

Steps:

1. remove all strings an give the guitar a good inspection and cleaning
   
   
2. make the neck perfectly level using the notched straight edge.
   
   
3. use the fret rocker to check for any high frets and file them down as necessary.
   
   
4. install new string and take note of the gauge you're using, then use that same gauge going forward.
   
   
5. check the relief in the neck by using a capo on the first fret while fretting the low E string at the 15th or 17th fret. With your free hand, check the relief at the 7th fret using a feeler gauge. Set the neck to the factory spec at first then tweak as needed. Most guitars have a relief of about .010" between the top of the 7th fret and the underside of the low E string. The feeler gauge should just barley make contact between the two. If it slide in without making contact, tighten the truss rod nut by turning it CW in 1/4-1/2 turns then re-check.
   
   
6. With the relief set, you can now set the action. Remove the capo and check the string height at the 12th fret by measuring from the top of the fret to the underside of the string. Again, start by using the factory specs. Most guitars have action at about 4/64th-5/64th, or about 1.5mm. On a Strat, you can set each string individually using this method, but on the other models, like the LP, you can only set the height on the Low E and the High E strings by using the thumb screws and allowing the other strings to be where they end up. Regardless, of the model, be sure to slacken the strings a bit before you adjust the action, then re-tune and re-check the string height.
   
   
7. With the action and relief set up, you can now adjust the intonation. Start by plucking the open string and getting it perfectly in tune with a good, non-clip-on tuner. Once set, play the 12th fret harmonic, it should also be in tune. Finally, fret the string at the 12th fret using normal playing pressure. If it's flat, the string is effectively too long, so you'll want to move the saddle forward. If it's sharp, the string is too short, so you'll need to move the saddle back. Make small adjustments and constantly check and re-check after each alteration.
   
   I know it sounds like a lot, but it's really not that bad. Just a bit tedious. However, once you get your guitars dialed in, they'll be good to go from here on out.
   
   Check out Dave's World of Fun Stuff on YouTube, as well. He's a super funny Canadian with tons of tips and tricks for setting up, repairing and maintaining your axe.
   
   Holler if you have any more questions.

Some of my favorite low cost set up tools are also the ones that I use the most.

The FretGuru is a multipurpose measuring tool that can help you set nut height, action, relief and other measurements down to .005 on an inch. Also is a fret rocker

The Buzz off is a small collection of tools to sand down high frets. It can all be bought at home depot, but this kit is cool if you only need to do a few setups.

The ESP multi tool used to pry off knobs, and tighten and loosen multiple size nuts. Its small enough to get under strings so you can tighten machine head nuts without having to take off strings. Also for tone pros bridge saddles that don't have the flathead slot at the top.

I looked in my gig bag for inspiration - it turns out that I just have way too much shit in there, most of which is under £15. Cheaper DIY options offered where applicable:

• The snark SN2 clip-on tuner. Absolute must-have.
  
• A decent multi-tool
  
• Allan Key Set if the multi-tool doesn't have the right sizes (metric is normal unless you play something made across the pond, but in case you need imperial, and have lots of space in your gig bag)
  
• Dunlop strap locks are a solid addition to any bassist's set-up
  
• Some fret-fast (I'm too lazy and disorganised to get new strings very often - you could just sub a rag and white mineral oil, but this is a convenient little package)
  
• A couple of spare 9V batteries for your bass, or your (more likely your guitarist's) pedals
  
• A fold-away bass stand that you can take to practices, comes in just over budget, but is a good addition and folds up to about the size of a tube of Pringles
  
• Some cheap bric-a-brac like electrical tape, gaffer tape, write-on-anything pens - all good additions
  
• A decent set of ear-plugs to protect your hearing
  
• Foldaway music stand if you ever play with sheet music; alternatively, if you have a car or are near public transport then this guy might be more bang for your buck; light in case you have one and play in dark venues sometimes and bag in case, like me, you're always leaving the house on gig-day carrying too much
  
• Patch cables if you use several stomp-boxes or rack units
  
• Cable ties to stop your cables getting mangled (can always use zip-ties instead - less neat but much cheaper)
  
• A cheap soldering iron is not essential, but it will be good to have one for that odd occasion where you need it - I've actually been in situations where I've saved some poor soul's night (occasionally mine) by having one of these on my person
  
• Owning a padded guitar strap has saved me much back pain over the years.
  
• A decent torch for last-minute backstage repairs and adjustments, lighting your pedalboard, etc
  
  Conspicuous consumerism at its finest, ladies and gents.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UVK8G0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506388441&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cage+nut+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=412A9O6jSIL&ref=plSrch

Game changer man. Still the occasional injury, but works pretty well most of the time.

link 1 - the notches are overkill, it's the straight edge you want because you're aligning the frets not the fretboard. Amazon has an 18" steel ruler that should work fine https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-Stainless-Steel-Office-Inches/dp/B000093IJ1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315326&sr=8-1&keywords=18%27+ruler

link 2 That's overkill as well, you'll end up using just one or two of the files. I don't like the fret guards because it's more efficient to tape all the frets at one time than it is to tape up the guard 22 times. If you want to round the fret ends this file is similar to one I've used and will work fine. Just make sure the edge of the file doesn't saw the fretboard https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Triangular-Ergonomic-American-Pattern/dp/B001R1UZII/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315923&sr=8-12&keywords=triangular+file

link 3 - That's fine, there's another one $1 cheaper. They're basically all stamped out in China, and do the same as the $25 Stew Mac one. https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-String-Action-Ruler-Guitar/dp/B01HM8SNHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1483316161&sr=1-3&keywords=String+Action+Gauge

Your choices are fine, but I'm a cheap dude. And while you're in the ordering mood, you might get a set of automotive feeler gauges. This is what you can use with the ruler to set the amount of relief the neck should have. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=pd_sim_267_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BA62DPTD81NDZKM36V6C

More on neck relief from Fender's web site: http://www2.fender.com/experience/tech-talk/how-to-measure-neck-relief/

If you wanna learn how to work on your own guitars, Frets.com is a great resource, here's their link on neck relief and buzz diagnosis http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Setup/BuzzDiagnosis/Relief/relief.html

Good luck!

Setting up your bass is easy if you have the tools. I have a six string so I run a relief of .015 a string height of between 4/64ths and 5/64ths at the 24th fret. If you play hard you will probably want to be higher like 6/64th.

This guy suggests some

https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/how-to-set-up-a-bass/

But you really only need these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS69756

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07594N814

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG29EYI

I check all my basses before the gig and bring the tools with me because North Carolina has some crazy temp/humidity swings.

Once you get it setup and are used to it, you will instantly when it's off and how to fix it.

I would also recommend Sketchy Setups. I found the strat one good for printing out and taking notes on. Also a Good tip in there for using old strings to make feeler gauges. They do cost $5 a piece

The correct hex keys and a String Action Gauge also help a lot. I like the one linked as it has a /64” to decimal conversion on the back. Also, aluminum, so you can measure your string to pickup heights without sticking to the pickups (and potentially demagnetizing them in small steps over time).

Check your library for Dan Erelwine’s books too...

Here you go. I have one and can vouch it makes the guitar much quieter.

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Screeching-Acoustic-Soundhole/dp/B0010SHU18

half of what I listed are "regular tools" though like allen wrenches, socket wrenches, screwdrivers, a small screwdriver, etc. A string height ruler is like $6 on amazon, this one in particular comes with bonus fret guards and feeler gauges are cheap too. You can even buy the ruler and feeler gauges together for $10. The fret rocker is definitely just a bonus thing, not necessary at all, but it's a nice little bonus thing to have.

I guess I do just like precision and hate "eyeballing" things, I'm really of the mindset of precisely measuring shit out, like I build pedals and have the holes drilled out to the millimeter on the dot and going off one or two millimeters really fucks my shit up, so I might be a bit crazy. Or if I'm going to cut something, I prefer to design it as a vector graphic and then laser cut it because I know laser cutting will be 100% accurate and my hand cutting will be slightly less than perfect and it'll ruin my day. Yeah, I'm nuts.

Every guitar player should learn to set up their guitars. It only takes a little practice to get pretty good at it. Then you can set them up however you want and it wont cost you money.

As /r/startrekmike suggested, there are a few inexpensive tools worth purchasing. People here will tell you that you dont need them, but I disagree. A set of feeler gauges and a string height gauge makes setting them up much easier and faster. With those tools, you can get an immediate picture of the guitars current condition and address it from there. Its really easy.

https://www.amazon.com/E-direct-String-Action-Measuring-Electric/dp/B00ZI3OQC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468263567&sr=8-1&keywords=string+height+gauge

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-68050-Valve-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B0009OR94M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1468263581&sr=8-6&keywords=feeler+gauges

These two tools will let you measure string height and neck relief.

Here, but it wasn't exactly difficult to google it :

http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Cage-Insertion-Extraction-Tool/dp/B009F08HNS

http://www.amazon.com/4HARCNITOOL-A-Star-Case-Cage-Tool/dp/B00DL09HPU

http://www.amazon.com/RackSolutions-Cage-Nut-Tool/dp/B00UVK8G0A

I've been at it a while, but my approach to music is not traditional. There's a few paths to go down. Learning to read sheet music is a very difficult path, especially to start, on guitar. You want to start by learning chords. get a chord chart/poster and learn the major chords. you can play a very large percentage of songs just knowing major chords.

Also, get a capo. change key, easily play more songs with the same chords.

I was learning hey jude on piano the other night and when I looked up the music, the guitar chords were already there. easy enough. you find this in lots of music books lately. I also played guitar and other string instruments at church for a number of years, just from knowing chords. nothing fancy, but great practice.

If you want to get into advanced technique stuff, I'd save that for later months. and I can point you in some different directions for that

there is something online called 'tablature' or just 'guitar tabs' and it basically can write out songs for you in a notation that is a number on a bar and staff represeting the fret position of a note to play. it makes more sense than bar and staff , but I wouldn't call it 'reading music'. it's definitely the practical approach to learning guitar, however, and I would never frown upon it.

here's a quick example of tablature. There are also tons of apps (ipad/phone/computer) for using this notation to learn.

You fix it.

Research 'electric guitar setup' on the googles and youtubes for a plethora of demos and instruction docs. Fender even has a tutorial on their website that will still be applicable to a PRS for most of the details.

Basically you take all the strings off the guitar and use the truss rod to achieve a totally flat neck surface, measured with a notched straight edge. Then you file down all the frets so they're level with each other. Now the top of the frets are all flat instead of round so you have to re-crown them with a fret crowning file. Once that's done you've got scratch marks all over the frets so you have to polish them with increasing grit sandpapers and eventually steel wool or a polishing wheel so they're shiny.

Restring the guitar, readjust truss rod to compensate for string tension to get the neck straight again and most of the work is now done.

Then you'll be fiddling with the bridge saddles to get the action and intonation spot on and you've saved yourself $100 in luthier costs.

Fret Wraps (found the below link on amazon, quite expensive though)

https://www.amazon.com/Gruv-Gear-FretWraps-3-Pack-String/dp/B00FNEB9XU/ref=sxts_k2p_hero1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2668835622&pd_rd_wg=9SLSv&pf_rd_r=5HYQ30ZGHMFQ0MCNKGMA&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00FNEB9XU&pd_rd_w=TKZdW&pf_rd_i=fret+wrap&pd_rd_r=9HQ7818FYTN1ZBWRFWR0&ie=UTF8&qid=1479129474&sr=1

You’re going to have to level off the affected frets so that they’re exactly level. I just started learning fret work repair so I’m not experienced in it. I recently ordered a kit online that has some decent fretwork guitar tools. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07P6J4W7D?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Definitely check it out if you’re wanting to try and repair it yourself :)

Thanks for the help, especially about the budget tools!

I don't have access to anything that can cut metal (no shears or saws). So, I could buy a metal ruler at home depot, but would also have to buy a pair of metal shears. Should I just buy this luthier's tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Neck-Straight-Notched-Luthiers/dp/B00DALF966/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483312680&sr=8-1&keywords=guitar+neck+straight+edge

Also what do you think about this tool set:

https://www.amazon.com/Including-Fingerboard-Protector-Maintenance-Esdabem/dp/B01N5B7LKM/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1483313150&sr=1-4&keywords=leveling+tool+frets

and this tool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GH436CQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3M7ATO72KRMP6

How cheap?

You could start by filling the guitar body with foam, in torn off gravel-like pieces (you want an even filling that's not too tight).

You'll probably need one of those sound-hole covers to keep the foam in:

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Screeching-Acoustic-Soundhole/dp/B0010SHU18/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503384410&sr=1-1&keywords=acoustic+soundhole+cover

Then you are going to want a stick-on piezo acoustic pickup, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SUNYIN-Transducer-Microphone-Classical-Cello-Black/dp/B01M1GG05L/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503384035&sr=8-2&keywords=piezo+acoustic+guitar+pickup

Stick it directly to the bridge, as close to the bass strings as possible.

And you will need a headphone amp, something like this might work:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-611500-Headphone-Amplifier-Guitar/dp/B00AJHE5E6/ref=sr_1_10?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503384156&sr=1-10&keywords=guitar+headphone+amp

You may need an adapter to plug it into the pickup

This setup is not going to sound great, but it's cheap!

On a side not that kit is fucking hella expensive and you don't even have nut files. Here is what I purchased for my setup kit.

https://www.amazon.com/StewMac-Gauged-Slotting-Electric-Strings/dp/B06XB1NS2X/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527801980&sr=1-1&keywords=stewmac+nut+file

https://www.amazon.com/String-Action-Forever-direct-Electric-Acoustic/dp/B00ZI3OQC2/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527802028&sr=1-4&keywords=guitar+string+gauge+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Winder-Multifunction-Instrument-Accessories/dp/B079FMH1SJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527802048&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=guitar+cutter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Set%EF%BC%8C30-Master-Measuring-Luthier/dp/B07594N814/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527802066&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=feeler+gauge+for+guitar&psc=1

Honestly the nut files are one of the most important parts I can grab feeler gauges and wire cutters from any dept store. The guitar specific measuring tool is not needed, just a nice to have.

Like others have said, most likely you simply need to set the guitar up. Its not that difficult. Just take your time and be careful with the truss rod.

Refer to this Ibanez PDF.
http://www.ibanez.com/world/manual/guitars/Maintenance.pdf

Looking online you need a few things:

• Neck Adjustment - Allen Wrench and feeler guages.
  https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Set%EF%BC%8C30-Master-Measuring-Luthier/dp/B07594N814/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1537217933&sr=1-1&keywords=feeler+gauge+for+guitar
  Adjust your neck relief accordingly.
  
  
• Then move on to string height using a string height guage and a smaller Allen wrench. Set your preferred string height on the 1st and 6th strings. Then simply use a radius gauge to correctly adjust the remaining strings. According to Ibanez, its a 400mm (or about 15 and 3/4 in) fretboard radius.
  https://www.amazon.com/Dreamtop-Understring-Radius-Luthier-Guitar/dp/B01LZBHHC2/ref=pd_sim_267_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LZBHHC2&pd_rd_r=883fa36e-babc-11e8-87eb-1be919d0e38f&pd_rd_w=40MfM&pd_rd_wg=eOv48&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&pf_rd_r=C4RV6HSAJA5KWFZG20J2&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=C4RV6HSAJA5KWFZG20J2
  
  https://www.amazon.com/String-Action-Electric-Acoustic-Guitar/dp/B00NARHNCS
  
  
• Next you will need to set your intonation using a small Phillips screwdriver.
  
  The Ibanez PDF outlines these steps, but YouTube search to find more examples. Its pretty straight forward. These steps with a small investment in tools will not only save you money, but teach you how to set the guitar up in manner you prefer as opposed to paying someone.
  
  If after all that it is still unplayable, then I might venture to guess you have a major neck issue like a broken truss rod or something.
  
  Good luck.

Buy one of these and one of these and you'll be good to go.


It's not the best solution, but it's the cheapest and it works.

You don't need the soundhole cover either, but it prevents feedback.

Being broke, ive tried some cheap aliexpress tools and hardware. Its a mixed bag. Out of those Ive tried or found elsewhere:

Radius sanding blocks are okay. But before using make sure to put some varnish\sealant on them before use. I used sandpaper with double sided tape, and when removed it peeled up some of the wood along the grain. (they work, and were the advertised radius but wouldn't expect them to last long)

Tried a crowning file that was similar to that one (but not purchased from there, and it was mostly crap, filing surface hardly worked at all.

The action ruler looks similar to the one I bought, but has different text on it. the one i got was a few bucks more but solid. https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-String-Action-Ruler-Guitar/dp/B01HM8SNHY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478093079&sr=8-2&keywords=string+action+ruler

Fretboard protection Ive just used painters tape whenever i filed the ends before for a thin layer of protection.

That depends on the height action. You need a special ruler. Generally 3/64" to 7/64". Generally fine at 4/64" or 5/64" as a sweet spot.

https://www.amazon.com/AZMUSIC-String-Action-Gauge-Measurement/dp/B01GH436CQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509581634&sr=8-5&keywords=guitar+ruler

Adjusting height action works a lot of teh time but if you have to go too high on the action, then that means you need to adjust the truss rod.

There's tons of vids how to do this yourself on Youtube. But if you're like most who don't trust themselves, then take it a Luthier you find on Yelp.

I saw a fret buzz kit for about $17. http://www.amazon.com/J-S-Bogdanovich-Guitars-Buzz-Off%C2%AE-Leveling/dp/B003WRG9SK

I was thinking of getting this since it may be a cheap alternative. I read that I could alternatively take a rubber mallet and lightly tap the frets down as well. does anyone know of any tutorials that instruct on how to use a rubber mallet on the fretboard? I don't want to break my guitar :p

Or you can buy a cheap String Action Ruler Gauge. They run a couple bucks on Amazon, eBay, etc... Here is a cheap one on Amazon: GIGmate String Action Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EGYA8WA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8TgEAbST5AP4H

I bought this guy for measuring action and pickup height:

https://www.amazon.com/GIGmate-Guitar-Gifts-GSG1-String/dp/B01EGYA8WA

Very inexpensive and worked well.

It just makes it easy to see how much bow the guitar has. I also recommend one of those rectangular tools that shows you the string height. Something like this. Those two tools tell you most of what you need to know. Another useful tool is radius gauges for whatever radius your guitar is, but I would say the notched straight edge and this tool get you 90-95% of the way there once you learn to use them.


https://www.amazon.com/String-Action-Forever-direct-Electric-Acoustic/dp/B00ZI3OQC2

They also make this which I buy for all of my guitar cases and keep in the little candy pocket. Its great for any small adjustments you have to make to action, intonation, and truss rods on the fly.

Feeler gages and a quality small ruler will go a long way. You can buy something like this to check your pick up height and clearances, and the proper feeler gages can be found at your local auto parts store. There's also radius gauges available so you can match your saddle heights to your neck radius correctly but that's not super important if your clearances are set properly.

Honestly the biggest problem is finding a quality straight edge. As in one that is 100% guaranteed perfect. StewMac has them for an insane high price but the alternative is rolling the dice with straight edges that aren't built to the same narrow margin of error. Here is the one I use, but fair warning that the reviews on it are mixed bag. Mine seems okay, but I'll never know for sure.

Here's a similar one that won't slice your hand open. Here's a better one for when you have to do a lot of them.

What notched straightedge do you have? Is it possible that it's not flat?

I bought this one which had good reviews, but it was hilariously warped when I checked it.

http://www.amazon.com/J-S-Bogdanovich-Guitars-Buzz-Off%C2%AE-Leveling/dp/B003WRG9SK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1451674481&sr=8-8&keywords=fret+rocker

I use this to level frets and it gets the job done. It's pretty good for eliminating high frets. Just be careful and go slowly. It's surprisingly really easy to sand frets too low.

UGH, LP's, you need a specific wrech made for their kind of truss rod. I've gone through multiple wrenches at home depot and none of them fit.

This is the wrench for LP's

http://www.amazon.com/Grover-16-Truss-Rod-Wrench/dp/B00DQU3TCW/ref=pd_cp_MI_0

Those kits are super inflated in price. Just go to a hardware store, get a one of those "all in one" hardware kits (the ones that come with a hammer, screwdriver with all those interchangable driver heads, allen wrench set), at home depot it's about $15. Thats all I use for my set ups.


If you want to go by measurements and be really specific, this is a really great tool. But, I suggest personal feel and (careful and conscious) experimentation based off feel, if you're comfortable with that sort of thing.

If your acoustic has a pickup, you can, but the guitar might have a lot of feedback since it's a hollow body.

Gently stuffing it with newspaper/scrap paper and/or getting a rubber soundhole cover would help cut back on the feedback, if only a bit.

Of course, you don't have to cut back on feedback entirely. Just get it down to a level where you have more control over it and can use it as you want.

Alternatively you could browse pawn shops and look for a good but cheap guitar. At least where I am, you can find a lot of older Teisco guitars that aren't exactly the desirable models for anywhere from $40-100. The really cheap ones aren't in great condition, but they aren't in pieces or about to be either.

You'll, of course, need an amp for either option.