Best hazardous storage drums according to redditors

If you can't buy what you want, become the one who sells it

Air. You can get a plastic one for $35.

This drum will solve your problem, in about the same footprint. Holds more debris, and is ROCK-solid sturdy. I got this and love it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GO5CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The blumats have a 30gal resevoir with a pH controller. This has basically cut my weekly work in half. I just top off the res every couple weeks.

That's a 3x3 tray, so that leaves 6 inches on all sides for some pavers to hold up those shelves. I use a transfer pump and wand to feed from 5gal buckets and then pump the runoff out of the tray back into a bucket for reuse outside for my strawberries.

Edit: Here's what it looks like from above

Upgraded my 5 gallon bucket to this 14 Gallon Bucket and it solved all my problems.

Imgur

Ouch! That hurts, my condolences.

I'd recommend a lab pack drum from from Eagle. Comes in a 14 and 28 gallon size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0025QI4XC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the container. It's definitely air tight, and very durable and thick. Can't beat the price, free shipping with Amazon prime. I think, including everything, the ingredients were more expensive than the whole setup lol.

You're going to pay like a thousand bucks for that much bubble solution, plus shipping and handling. My advice would be to pick up an empty drum, a couple of buckets of liquid detergent, and a gallon of glycerin; and make it yourself in your back yard. You'd be looking at more like $250 plus shipping (particularly, you're going to save S&H on 400 pounds of water). There's lots of recipes online but you'd generally be looking at 1 part detergent to 6-8 parts water, and 1 part glycerin to 12-16 parts detergent.

I use the 14 gallon version of this for sugar washes. amazon clicky

You could spend $25 on a trash can and maybe $5-10 on stuff trying to get it to seal.

Or you could spend $55 on an HDPE drum with the seal built in.

I'd look up what your can is made out of, reference this to see if it is safe. Also what temps it can hold. I like HDPE because I can dump hot liquid in it without worry.

But really, sealing isn't that necessary. Keep bugs out, but that's really it. No oxidation concerns. More on infections later.

As far as heat, I wouldn't worry. Many of the esters and phenols created from hot fermentation will be cut out with your early heads. It's really not a big issue. But 70-80f would be great for whiskey, and and I wouldn't expect it to get any higher even with the thermal mass of 20-25 gallons.

And sanitation... Well. I don't really worry too much. I spray my fermenter down with water and store it open, upside down. No sanitizer, not really necessary. But if you really want, spraying starsan should be fine. Mild infections are good for complexity though, so a lot of people skip it.

I did recently get a bit of mold when I stored it incorrectly and had some liquid... Whoops. Luckily HDPE can be bleached.

I've noticed that before, I believe it's the edge of the pit and they were trying to make the outer lip of a salvage drum top look like bone. This is photo of a salvage drum and its outer plastic lip can be seen along its metal ring:

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1654-Blow-Molded-Lever-Lock-Capacity/dp/B000LDEP0C

More of the lip section is shown from 10:40 to 11:00 and then from 11:09 to 11:14. The melted plastic can be seen on the lower piece from 11:20 to 11:24 then again 11:31. At 11:31, inside the lipped section, the raised support sections are visible. If you look to the right side of Exhibit 175, to the left of the wire pile & seat remains, you'll find the outer metal ring of the drum:

http://www.stevenaverycase.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Dassey-Exhibit-175.jpg

The outer metal ring also appears in Exhibit 169:

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1654-Blow-Molded-Lever-Lock-Capacity/dp/B000LDEP0C

I had to do a double take to check that I didn't post this last night without remembering.

I am going through this same process with the 10x14 attic space above our bedroom. I started off with Plan B and tried a few different methods. Filter bags filled up much too quickly and would have been expensive but they did a great job of containing the mess. I have a Dust Deputy attached to my vacuum which helped, but inevitably, the shopvac would get clogged with insulation that made it out of the vortex. My most recent adaptation was to attach the dust deputy to the top of a 40 gallon airtight drum I bought from amazon and then use some old pantyhose around the shopvac filter. This greatly extends my times between either emptying the shopvac or emptying the 40 gallon barrel. Inevitably the shopvac gets filled first but the pantyhose does a great job of keeping the filter in usable shape.

I did buy a Toro leaf blower/vacuum and it worked well but I didn't have an airtight container at the time so the fine insulation would just blow out from under the lid of the trash can I was using. If you have ANY holes in the tubing, you will have a dusty mess on your hands. I plan on retrying this method on the remainder of my attic in the next couple of weeks. If/when it doesn't work adequately, I will buy some insulation bags from Amazon and that should finish the job for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Deputy-Standalone-Anti-Static-Cyclone-Separator/dp/B002JP315K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496112200&sr=8-1&keywords=dust+deputy

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1601MB-Polyethylene-Lever-lock-Capacity/dp/B0025QI4XC/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0025QI4XC&pd_rd_r=TWYG0J54TB8HRJBXHVX3&pd_rd_w=L9VJ6&pd_rd_wg=DlIiD&psc=1&refRID=TWYG0J54TB8HRJBXHVX3

I'm not going to try this(or I might) but I think if you daisy chained two dust deputies and two drums, you would be absolutely fine with a shopvac.

I also made the mistake of failing to consider the difficult in mixing the Green Fiber cellulose bales without their machine once I had removed the old insulation. I only needed 7 bags for above our bedroom but man was that a PITA. I used a concrete mixer attached to my battery powered drill and managed to get in a great rhythm but having the machine would have been a million times easier.

I believe the cyclone dust collector recommends a container >90 mil. I've been looking to set up a dust collector my self and was thinking of using this or this one. If you look at the comments you'll see photos of other peoples set ups.

First, the dust bible. I know at 4" hose you can only pull 349 CFM. Smaller the hose the less the possible airflow.

Second, Festool makes a great vacuum but IMO it isn't the right choice here. For the money, they don't move a ton of air.

---
Simplest choice - get the Harbor Freight Dust Collector for $170

$170

It pulls about 750 CFM at 5" hose. At a 4" hose you can only get 349 CFM. Go smaller and you drop even more. Won't be super quiet and not HEPA

---

OR

• Vacmaster 8 gal HEPA filter, fairly quiet- $190
  
  
• Cyclone - $50 and connect it to
  
• this container - $30
  
  Total = $270

Check craigslist first for carboys. I got 5 6.5 gallon glass carboys for 75 bucks last year. As far as the rest...don't spend a ton.

You want a large primary fermenter, I don't use the buckets because they're too small if you want to use a bunch of fruit for a melomel. You can get a very high quality 14 gallon lab quality HDPE container for 31 dollars drill a hole in it and put in a bung with a 0.25 psi ozone check valve. You never have to worry about your airlocks going dry!!

You want a large stainless steel spoon, no plastic one as they are flimsy and will bend. I think I paid 7 bucks for mine at my local brew place.

You want a carboy brush that you can attach to a drill. I bought mine locally 3 years ago (it's a cheap shitty one like this) and I still use it all the time and it hasn't had any problems.

For sanitization, go Iodophor, it's cheap and it doesn't foam like StarSan, making it easier to rinse out carboys after you buzz them with the brush on your pistol drill. Buy this locally, it's very cheap, and you don't use a lot (like 1 cap full for a carboy) so if you buy the 4 ounce bottle, it will probably last you a year or more. I brew probably 100 gallons a year, and the 16 ounce bottle I bought 3 years ago is still like 1/3 full.

And always go glass, fuck plastic carboys.

For chemicals, go to your local brew place and get some bulk potassium metabisulfite it's the same thing as in campden tablets but it's cheaper in loose form, and a 1/4 teaspoon works just fine in place of a tablet.

I also buy potassium sorbate, it works differently than sulfites to stop fermentation, I use both when I use chemicals at all. You should get this locally, shipping accounts for most of the amazon cost.

You will want an autosiphon, doing it with the racking cane can be kind of a pain in the ass when you're brewing alone. I use a vacuum pump, but don't put up the 200 bucks until you know this is a hobby you really like. Again, get this locally as it's bulky but light so you'll get it cheaper vs buying online.

I don't personally use yeast nutrient except for a very few specific high test (like over 20% ABV) meads. I use raisins, they provide tannins (so you don't have to buy that in loose form) they help to acidify the brew just a bit (so you don't have to buy acid blend) and they provide plenty of nutrient for your yeasties. I add like 1 cup of finely chopped grocery store brand raisins when I brew to each 5 gallons of primary fermentation. Toss these in with your initial water boil to sanitize them and help to break them down a bit for the yeast. You can't taste the raisin after the yeast is done with them, they marginally add some more sugar, but it's so little that I don't even bother to take this into consideration when calculating.

For corking...start with 20 ounce beer bottles and a crown capper. The reason I say this is those lever action corkers fucking blow, none of them are good, and you'll end up with mead all over the place. Until you're ready to invest in a Portuguese floor corker stick with oxygen absorbing crown caps and 20 ounce beer bottles (which you should also buy locally as shipping will kill you on these.) I still bottle all of my no chemical meads in 20 ounce beer bottles to prevent them from launching corks.

Lastly, ditch the hydrometer. Get a Refractometer that has both brix and specific gravity. You will lose less wort and you don't have to worry about accidentally dropping and shattering the thing (which always happens 5 minutes before you need it.) Hydrometers are SUPER fragile.

I think eventually I might upgrade to something like this. Larger and the plastic seems thicker.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Polyethylene-Lever-Lock-Capacity-Diameter/dp/B0026GO5CA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Eagle%2B1610mb&qid=1555340703&s=hi&sr=1-3&th=1

OK, this probably won't be the most well reviewed response, but it worked for me. Just be aware you need a trailer for this.

After a few years of evap ponds, and other things, I got frustrated and just bought 2 of these. I thought would need them both, but in reality, I used maybe 1/2 of one with gray water from showers and cooking. Put some bleach in it from time to time. Dumped it at a gray water approved place after the burn. 7 people will maybe fill 1 if you aren't sloppy.

This is the one i used. I dont think theres any way it will collapse. Very heavy duty

Ya it's pretty thin for most dust collection. You could always buy the galvanized metal can which would be beefy and not too expensive. There's a HDPE one I bought which is around $35 on Amazon but is probably like x5 the thickness and no issue with the 3HP DC system. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDEP0C/

Maybe this one ?

Eagle 1601MB Blue High Density Polyethylene Lab Pack Drum with Metal Lever-lock Lid, 30 gallon Capacity, 28.5" Height, 21.25" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025QI4XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qZW4ybW7FGGMR

DRAMA

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025QI4XC/