(Part 2) Best industrial tweezers according to redditors

I have this

The zipper is crap but I like to wear it on charity rides because children love it.

A few tips to help you out OP:

1. Thin your paint. Generally, 50/50 is good starting point. For future note, buy paint brush cleaner and thinner at your local hardware store. Far cheaper and generally works fine.
   
   
2. You should get an Xacto knife and a flush side cutter like this. Use the flush cutters to get the parts off the spruce, and use the Xacto knife to clean it up. The box cutters you have don't give good control and unergonomic for most modeling work.
   
   
3. If you have a Michele's close by, get their general purpose assortment paintbrush pack. This gives you the flat brushes and quite a bunch of other brushes. The flat brushes are ideal for applying primer/base coat.
   
   
4. Go to your hardware store or automotive store and get an assortment pack of sandpaper.
   
   
5. The kit directions aren't always the way to go. When doing tanks/armor and most kits in general, I recommend following a modular approach. So for tanks, paint your road wheels, hull, etc before gluing it together. This makes it a hell of a lot easier to paint.
   
   
6. You should definitely buy some filler. You'll need it to fill larger gaps the glue won't be able to deal with.
   
   edit:
   
   A few other useful items you should get either now or later, most of this you should have around the house already:
   
   

• A fine point tweezers. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Anti-Static-Flat-Tweezers-Electronic-Repair/dp/B00880EDIO/
  
  
• Toothpicks
  
  
• Cotton swabs
  
  
• Compressed air can
  
  
• If you don't have good light in where ever you setup to work, get a good desk lamp
  
  
• A cutting mat like this: http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B0015AOIYI/
  

I spent the extra bux on the Halcyon blunt tipped... $11... Pretty good so far... I suspect they are the same but without the points at least... http://www.amazon.com/Halcyon-Premium-Tipped-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B00SKPKKGG/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452480559&sr=1-13&keywords=ceramic+tweezers

Gorgon Loop KeyClip

MecArmy IllumineX-3 Copper

Uncle Bill's Silver Gripper

Zebra H52 Headlamp

Koh-I-Noor Lead Holder

Fluxmob Bolt Battery

Bellroy Slim Sleeve Wallet and Phone Case

Thanks! Glad I could be helpful.

The reflow station/solder paste is just awesome. The results are so much better than the hand soldering I tried to do initially.
My tips for the hot air reflow- Keep the air speed low (I do 1.5 - 1.75 speed @ 350c), you don't want to send the components sliding around the PCB. You only need a tiny dab of solder paste on a tinned board, otherwise you'll end up with little balls of solder where the excess collects. These can be knocked off with tweezers, but you should be careful to check for them as they can cause shorts.

I forgot one of the most useful tools out there! This is maintained by one of the FB Euro SMD DIY Noobs members.

This is the repository I use for .hex files. It's maintained by another SMD Noobs member.

These are the tweezers I use for handling SMD parts.

You'll also want a flux pen! Flux pens are wonderful.

I'd also suggest a magnifying glass or jeweler's loup of some sort for inspecting the PCB for shorts. I use a 10x loupe.



Here's a pic of my current workspace in an unusually clean state.

My SMD component filing technique. A work in progress.

Feel free to let me know if you have any more questions.

sure fused Claptons are great! but thats gonna ohm out very low in dule coil, 0.3ohm to 0.2 mabey lower, can your mod/battery handle that? if the answer to that is im not sure... dont do it!!! first go read more about ohms law and battery's . i dont want you blowing your mod up ;)

ok time for many links

TOOOOOOOOLS!

hook nose/needle nose tweasers for wicking

ceramic tweezers for coils

more ceramic tweezers these ones come with a coil jig!

wire cutters you need to get flush cutters so you can trim as close to the deck as posible

coil jig

alternatively you can go for a tool kit with everything in this one is legit good and even comes with some wire and cotton, the other cheaper versions like the ones i own are knock off's of this one and while usable are just not as good.

WIRE!

ok so your all jazzed on fused claptons but as its your first builds that may not be wise so here are some options, remember the lower the number the bigger the wire and therefore the lower the ohm.

kanthal 24g plain kanthal nice thick gauge good for beginners!

clapton 26g thin higher ohm clapton

clapton 24g thicker lower ohm clapton

fused clapton 2x24g big huge super low ohm fused Clapton, looks kinda funky but thats just how premade fused comes, i usually spin mine in a drill with pliers to take the twist out and make it easier to wrap.

staple wire incorectly labeled as alien this is staple/faltpton wire also super low ohm, its stacked ribbon wire with a Clapton around it

WICK!

fast cotton

cheap cotton

ok so theese are the same cotton almost exactly the difference being the fast option will get to you sooner, the cheap option is a huge bulk amount for a vastly reduced price but it will take a while to get to you like maybe a few weeks.

once you've got all that shit together its time to coil n wick.

coiling is easy so i wont cover that.
wicks can be a little tricky

1. take a cotton pad and cut a 4-6mm wide strip following the groove in the cotton,
   
   its important to have enough cotton to be snug in the coils ( to help it stop burning and wick enough juice otherwise dry hits)
   
   but not enough to jam up the wicking holes in the deck stoping the juice flowing up and giving you dry hits ... its a fine line
   
   
2. remove the top and bottom lair
   
   
3. roll it into a tube between your fingers
   
   
4. pinch the end and roll into a point then insert it into your coils
   
   
5. trim the ends
   
   
6. prime the wicks and coils with some juice
   
   
7. push them down into the wick holes
   
   jobs done vape on!
   
   hope this was helpful if you have any other questions go nuts
   
   i actually really enjoyed this youve kept me sane through a very long shift at work ;)

I had an orb weaver living in my kitchen for a while, and I'd feed her small flies and later crickets from the pet store. I'd grab the crickets with a pair of plastic tweezers that came with my son's microscope.

I think what you're thinking of is slanted tweezers like these? But really, outside, they do a pretty good job getting their own food.

Here's a pic of my girl when she was still tiny. She floated in as a freshly hatched baby and I had her for almost two years until I finally got tired of dealing with the goddamn crickets (they stink and escape) and put her outside in my garden. It was great fun watching her grow up and grow fat though!

Tweezers:

I've bought this set years ago and it's worth the price: https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0037UIVDS

I use mostly 00 and SS, 7A if necessary. 2A is amazing when dealing with decals.

"reverse tweezers" can be useful, usually to clamp some parts while the glue dries or if you have to hold some small part when painting. I have some "Amati" reverse tweezers, that's all I know.

>And a recommendation on sprue cutters would be welcome too. I have Italeri and they were fine in the beginning, but the are horribly misaligned after a year or so of use and are becoming increasingly annoying to use. That said, I would rather not spend €25 on them like some Tamiya offerings.

Sprue cutters:

I have the Tamiya side cutters listed here and they are amazing http://goodguydangunpla.blogspot.it/2013/06/sidecutters-side-by-side-comparrison.html?m=1

I use these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jeweltool-Curved-End-Tweezers-Silver/dp/B00KIMJUGA/

From a different brand but they look identical. You want angled over straight as it's easier to work with them.

Cooking them too hot (orange is ok, bright red or hotter is too high) will ruin them and can produce a nasty metallic taste.

Regarding the Clapton: In some cases, the wick can't transfer liquid fast enough to replace the juice being vaporized by the coil, either from too long of wick tails p much wick inside of the coil itself (can choke the coil) or from sharp bends in the cotton or compressed parts of the cotton. Either can restrict wicking, causing the wick touching the coil to singe. In tanks, something similar happens when the wick tails are too long or compressed.

Fluffing or 'combing' out the wick parts you've cut (cutting compresses the cotton a bit) and using really well-fluffed cotton will help reduce the chance of this occurring.

Take a cotton pad & leave the outsides on it; gently stretch and fluff it out from the sides, making it wider until you can nearly see through it. It'll end up pretty huge compared to what it originally looked like. Then, just cut off a bigger piece than you're used to & roll it gently to avoid compressing it.

I always pulse my coils, work out the hot spots, take the atomizer off and rinse the hell out of the coils themselves, let it sit until dry and reassemble/wick.

Your single wire build looks ok; as long as it doesn't have a metallic taste it shouldn't be an issue. It helps to shut the light off so you can see when it starts to glow a lot sooner.

I'd recommend ceramic tipped tweezers for getting the hotspots worked out of any springier coils, but coil master ceramic rods will work well for a lot of coils.

Edit: Original product OOS at Amazon, updated link.

You can get 5 more for about the same price.

I actually have that set you linked because I needed ceramic tweezers and it was only $5 more for the kit. I like it a lot, everything seems to work really well and overall I have no complaints. It isn't the highest of build quality - the clippers aren't the best and the case gets some loose threads - but for the price it's hard to beat. The two things I've added to it is some curved tweezers I already had (just like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9N5GUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dtwVBbQH8XQSP) for raking the cotton and pushing it into the juice well since that's tough to do with the ceramic tweezers, and also a multi tool with small screwdrivers since the included ones were too big for the post screws on my attys. I really like having a case for all my coil building stuff and I don't have the coil master one so I can't compare them, but this one suits my needs perfectly. Just let me know if you have any questions about it and I'll do my best to answer!

You want these! They are awesome.
Tweezers, #h Dumont Hi-tech Antimagnetic - TWZ-302.43 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058EDIE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nOXkxb7H7RVW1

I use some tweezers I got with a soldering kit that are similar to these ones.

And in case you don't want to order from FT, they're $5 more at Amazon

You can get a pair of forceps/hemostats on Amazon for really cheap. They work really well for holding/dangling the food. You can also offer food by placing it in the cage and the snake will come get it themself. I place it on a plastic lid like a plate. She actually uses the edge of the lid to push the food into her mouth with. Plus, it prevents her from eating the substrate on accident. My kingsnake is receptive to both ways of feeding.

Hit up amazon, get yourself some kanthal, ceramic tweezers, and japanese cotton, if you want to make it super easy, coil jig too. 26g is decently thick, which is going to give you more surface area and lower resistances, make sure you build within safe limits. 0.5-0.8 is a good target for when youre starting out, then you can get onto more advanced stuff like dual coils, twisted coils, etc. My current build is a triple twisted 28g dual coil build on my velocity, reads out at 0.3 and at 60w does great.

My recommendation is instead of having the coil sit between the two posts like yours is now, position it to one side or the other which is going to reduce spitback when you up the wattage.

Check out a couple youtube vids on coil building, and try it out.

http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-20-pcs-Japanese-Cotton/dp/B00ROA2QD8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457346067&sr=8-3&keywords=26g+kanthal

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Luckybh-Ceramic-Tweezers-Resistant/dp/B011L9QGKG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1457346097&sr=8-10&keywords=ceramic+tweezer
http://www.amazon.com/NEW--Coil-Jig--Best-Seller/dp/B0153WVTHC/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1457346218&sr=8-37&keywords=coil+jig

these are awesome! i've been using a regular pair of tweezers with my minis and making a mess. quick question, do you think the curved pair you shared here would be better than the straight pair or are they pretty much the same?

I cant stand the skewer style, i use straight tweezers, like http://www.amazon.com/a09101900ux0063-Straight-Watchmakers-Jewelers-Tweezers/dp/B0087ZTDQC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458963537&sr=8-2&keywords=watch+tweezers

Here is something as an example, these are 18" long.

https://www.amazon.com/Tweezers-Mega-reptile-feeding-tweezers/dp/B005N07F9G