Best outdoor generator cords, sets & plugs according to redditors

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...

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Charging

• Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  
• Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  
• NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.
  
  Tesla OEM
  
  
• Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  
• Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  
• Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.
  
  Detailing
  
  
• Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  
• Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  
• Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  
• Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  
• Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.
  
  Third-Party
  
  
• Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  
• Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  
• Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  
• Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  
• Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  
• Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  
• Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  
• Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  
• Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  
• Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.

Also if it's on a 20A circuit (check the breaker if it says 20) you can put in a 5-20 receptacle or use this adapter and then use the 5-20 mobile connector (not included by standard) for another ~1mph improvement. This is what I do in my condo garage where 240V install is prohibitively expensive.

I see your laptop charger has a USA plug, maybe you could buy one of these to save the volume of the extra cable and adapters.

I´ve got one of those for my xps13 charger and its really convenient

What no that's not what I was implying.

I meant flipping the transfer switch and connecting the inverter to the generator inlet receptacle using a cord like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ML3MXK/

Totally safe and not a suicide cord. If the inverter is a good one it will output a proper sin wave between it's two outlets to support this.

This is what you need - 30 amp extension cable. No one rents with them for some unknown reason, even for the Burn. We had to supply literal pallets of them for our camps. It’s a common annoyance when renting RVs for events.

TT-30 RV Power Cord 40 feet 3 Wire 10 Gauge 125volt 30 Amp 7500 watts (40ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728P221J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O1QSAbNXDGX6Z

It sucks but they’re good to have for future rentals.

So basically, that transfer panel Is low capacity and rather old, and could stand to be upgraded with a standard 30A transfer panel. BUT yours is breakered at the input of the panel at 20A. in a temporary / trying not to freeze and die situation, you can get a pre made L14-30 male to breakered L14-20 female molded adapter to run that panel, assuming everything is fine with it and the generator. Make sure you plug this adapter in at the generator if you've only got a 12/4 cable. If you don't have the cable to hook the generator to the house, home depot / Lowes sell them.

http://www.powerfittools.com/product_power_cord_plug_adaptors_pf923022_30_amp_to_20_amp_generator_to_power_cord_plug_adaptors.php


https://www.amazon.com/PowerFit-PF923022-4-Prong-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00BMPXFBS

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-PL1430L630-Generator-Adapter-250-volt/dp/B00DVE93PU/

Does this look right to you?

Correct. Dryer (30) and stove (50). Cable is a 10/3 100ft Conntek.

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-RUL630PR-100-L6-30-Extension-100-Feet/dp/B074MNLD6R

The conversion cables are rated for 30 amps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO7130/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVE93PU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

would one of these work?

http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-30113-Locking-Adapter-Connector/dp/B000JCQZQW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841140&sr=8-2&keywords=conntek+nema+6-20r

Just a guess based on things I have seen in the past; The header in the top left surrounded by the white boundary could be either a serial header, a jtag header, or even USB. I'm going to do some poking and prodding to see if I can determine which it is. The pins inside the white boundary on the botttom of the board are most likely for an ethernet jack such as this one. I'm still working to deduce the other pins.

On my TT the 30 amp cord terminates in a junction box. If I found mine cut, I would replace it with 30' male plug to bare wire.

Conntek 14346 RV Power Cord 30-Foot RV 30 Amp Male Plug To Bare Wire: https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14346-Power-Cord-30-Foot/dp/B003YDY826

+2 on a comment below - With 20 amp service you might trip the breaker or sag the voltage running an A/C unit. If you run your air conditioner at the lower voltage, it can lead to premature compressor failure. 20 amp household service to my old 13.5k and my new 15k A/C sagged the voltage to below 104 volts. I ended up wiring a separate 30 amp breaker, a wiring run and a 30 amp plug for my TT.

There's a guy in the reviews of [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-YL1430520S-Generator-Adapter-Connector/dp/B002MGJ2F4/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i) saying he uses it for homebrewing, basically doing what you're trying to do. But honestly I wouldn't feel safe without at least asking an electrician first. It'd suck to burn your apartment to the ground.

Technically using this and this would work, but you should just have an electrician change the dryer breaker to a two-pole 15 amp and change the outlet to a 6-15.