Best outdoor generator accessories according to redditors
We found 54 Reddit comments discussing the best outdoor generator accessories. We ranked the 27 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
18. Renogy 400 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit w/ 40A MPPT Charge Controller
1 mention
Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...
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Charging
Tesla OEM
Detailing
Third-Party
Also if it's on a 20A circuit (check the breaker if it says 20) you can put in a 5-20 receptacle or use this adapter and then use the 5-20 mobile connector (not included by standard) for another ~1mph improvement. This is what I do in my condo garage where 240V install is prohibitively expensive.
For solar, buy anything that is Renogy brand. VERY nice stuff and well respected.
Here's the panel I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484425808&sr=8-1&keywords=renogy+50+watt+panel
And the crappy PWM controller. Bought it because it was cheap. You really want an MPPT controller, but they're expensive and bulky. You can google around for the what and why, but this works for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection/dp/B00L37KZI6/ref=sr_1_2?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1484425831&sr=8-2&keywords=solar+charge+controller
I have a box full of these things though!
https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-High-Precision-Meter-Power-Analyzer/dp/B00PSQPSWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484425929&sr=8-2&keywords=renogy+meter
Great to know what's coming from the panel, and coming out of your charge controller to the batter... or how much you're pulling OUT of the battery. 3 is ideal but if I'm out overlanding or camping, I wont use any of them. They're helpful and fun when you're setting up your kit.
Yeah, I just wired this into my breaker box. Power goes out, I flip it to backup power and go about my business as usual.
I got a reliance. I like it. Very easy to install and comes with a video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HS2L3O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just did this a few months back (same issue with the well pump). Was originally planning on hiring an electrician to do it, but after a few youtube videos, realized I could do it myself. Very simple - hardest part was figuring out which circuits I wanted to include and wrestling 10-3 UF-B wire. The electrical part was easy.
First question you got to figure out is what kind of switch you are going to use. If you have some free breaker space in your panel, you can get an interlock switch. This is the cheapest way to go and you could power your whole house with this method (if you generator is up to it). Downside is you have to be careful about balancing your loads.
I didn't have any space in my panel so got one of these badboys. Super easy to set up and use. Lets you choose up to 10 circuits that you want to be run off the generator. It includes a bunch of documentation on how to calcualte and balance loads for your generator to decide which side you hook each ciruit up to. Also nice because when the pwoer comes back on, you will know. I very highly recommend this box and company. Great instructions and customer support, very easy to install. Seems like really solid hardware, too. They sell these at the Lowes near me in case you can't wait for amazon shipping.
In either case, I also highly recommend the remote L14-30 input box (its included in the kit that I linked to). Have it mounted somewhere outside you house where the generator will be running. You can run the aforementioned 10-3 UF-B cable out to it. Its a lot cheaper than buying a super long equivalent extension cord to get the generator a safe distance away from your home, and you also don't have to wrestle that same cord every time you need the generator (those things are heavy AF and the last thing you want to deal with in the cold/dark/rain/snow/wet/wind that is happening when you lose power).
So I actually was going through all the colors and functions on it last night for other reasons and wrote out a quick table.
we did minimal brightness and highest of each color
most expensive [in amps] color was purple, pulling just about 2.3 @ full brightness
cheapest was one of the two blues pulling just under 1.1 @ full brightness,
putting the same "cheap blue" to the brightness we actual use regularly, we were pulling .7 [it was fluctuating but not by much] if we dropped it down to the most minimal we can get away with while still being able to see it hits that .1 range
We at max were able to hit 4.6 amps pulled. This was when the lights were full brightness and we had the music feature turned on [it blinks and changes color to loud noises] I saw 5 amps get hit during [flashing purple] this test, but I couldn't get it to draw constantly 5 amps ever. I also had a draw going to a USB bus at this time so numbers are likely a little inflated
I was tracking via this monitor
Just buy a real transfer switch.....
http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-TF151W-Single-Circuit-Generator-Generators/dp/B000HRWG8U
The make simple transfer switches for just this situation. You replace the on/off switch with the box and you are ready to go.
http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-TF151W-Single-Circuit-Generator-Generators/dp/B000HRWG8U/
I picked one up on amazon 2 weeks ago, but it is no longer available.
Atima Magnetic Oil Dipstick Fits Yamaha Ef2000iSv2 EF2200iS Wen 56200i Atima AY2000i,Champion 73536i,Rainier R2200i AT-MOD2000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9HKRV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TmOjDbJ7JYJX9
sorry to keep asking questions, but I can't quite figure this out. this is my generator. i'm trying to figure out my battery bank size needs, and i'm so confused by this stuff. i'm supposed to take the wattage and multiply it by how many hours I plan on using it?
my laptop draws 162 watts, a ps4 that draws 140 watts and a tv that draws 70 watts. I review videogames for a living, so to support myself on the road, I need to have all 3 running about 5 hours a day. that's why I went with a generator instead of solar.
so can somebody please tell me how big of a battery bank I need? by my estimates, it's around 700 ah. how close am I with this figure? thanks to everybody who's helped me so far.
I might have bought the marketing hook harder than I should have....
Ultrasonic Signal Generator Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NRH95AY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ThCdBb6SN9ZY2
Oh man I posted a link earlier and it looks like it didn’t take - you need a 30 AmP extension cable.
TT-30 RV Power Cord 40 feet 3 Wire 10 Gauge 125volt 30 Amp 7500 watts (40ft)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728P221J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uXXSAb1JH3Y5H
It’ll work with 50 amp service in a pinch too but no one rents 50 amp RVs unless it’s a land yacht.
What no that's not what I was implying.
I meant flipping the transfer switch and connecting the inverter to the generator inlet receptacle using a cord like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ML3MXK/
Totally safe and not a suicide cord. If the inverter is a good one it will output a proper sin wave between it's two outlets to support this.
I had my electrician put in this transfer switch.
Reliance Controls Corporation 31406CRK 30 Amp 6-circuit Pro/Tran Transfer Switch Kit for Generators (7500 Watts) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQN4T2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GgvSzbAMAKRC2
One plug from the generator right into the box and I can power fridge lights and stove no problem.
So basically, that transfer panel Is low capacity and rather old, and could stand to be upgraded with a standard 30A transfer panel. BUT yours is breakered at the input of the panel at 20A. in a temporary / trying not to freeze and die situation, you can get a pre made L14-30 male to breakered L14-20 female molded adapter to run that panel, assuming everything is fine with it and the generator. Make sure you plug this adapter in at the generator if you've only got a 12/4 cable. If you don't have the cable to hook the generator to the house, home depot / Lowes sell them.
http://www.powerfittools.com/product_power_cord_plug_adaptors_pf923022_30_amp_to_20_amp_generator_to_power_cord_plug_adaptors.php
https://www.amazon.com/PowerFit-PF923022-4-Prong-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00BMPXFBS
This is the switch I used.
http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4157-Single-Phase-Switch/dp/B005W17GZE/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=15XRF14V9G4XFJWKJYR6
It says 2HP, but I had no problem using it with the rated amperage.
Use this.
You should be fine. Just be sure to turn off all breakers that you don’t need. The interlock I plan on installing soon includes wire that I can fasten directly to my intended breaker.
Interlock
Honestly a dedicated transfer switch is going to be less work than what you are proposing, and you will be up to code at the end of it. Remember someday when you sell your home you will need to most likely bring things up to code and at that point they will want an electrician to do the work or at least inspect it, so it most likely will cost you more money too.
http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-TF151W-Single-Circuit-Generators/dp/B000HRWG8U/
This kind of transfer switch for one circuit is very easy to install. I have installed the six circuit version. It probably will take you 15-30 minutes to install one of these and you're good to go.
It's a better idea to use a machine tool style safety switch, so that if you inadvertently bump it, it doesn't fire up.
There's a few styles but the gist of them is if you bump or swat them it hits off and not on, as on is guarded. A bandsaw isn't an incredibly dangerous tool, but a $10 switch is cheap insurance.
eg
eg
eg - this kind is sort of comically large, for table saws to shut off with your knee easily.
After a 7 day power outage I had a generac transfer switch installed in my house (nothing motivates like winter in the north and a 7 month pregnant wife). We bought an 8000W Generator which was neutral bonded and required switch neutral kit for the install.
It all really depends on the generator from research but if the generator has a bonded neutral (as opposed to floating neutral), you should be using a switch neutral kit (setup) on the panel. If not done it can cause GFCI faults (source):
>2. Why does the generator GFCI breaker trip on some generators when used with a transfer switch?
Download Honda Generator Service Bulletin
Including but not limited to GENERAC XP series models XP4000, XP6500E, XP8000E, XP10000E and HONDA EB series Models EB3500XK1, EB5000XK1, EB6500SX, EB12DAG, and some models from Briggs and Stratton and Cummins.
> Some portable generators are intended for use on jobsites, and therefore are subject to OSHA regulations for GFCI protection on all receptacles. These "contractor grade" generators have their neutral wire bonded to the ground wire to pass OSHA inspection on job sites. Since home and building main load centers also have the neutral bonded to ground, a loop is created, comprised of the neutral wire and the ground wire. A small amount of current is induced in this loop by the running generator. and since the neutral wire passes through the ground fault sensor, the GFCI senses this induced current and trips the main circuit breaker in the generator.
> When using these neutral bonded generators to power a house or building through a transfer switch, the neutral bond wire on the generator must be removed, preferably by a dealer or a qualified electrician. NOTE: After this action, the generator will no longer pass OSHA inspection on job sites. Contact your dealer to determine if the neutral bond can be removed, and we recommend that a dealer perform this task. Honda dealers may refer to Honda Service Bulletin #20 for instructions on removing the neutral bond. Once this is done, no modifications to your transfer switch installation are needed.
> If the neutral bond cannot be removed (as is the case with Generac and Cummins), you can lift the ground wire coming from the generator inside the transfer switch, and secure it with a wire nut, by itself. This eliminates the nuisance tripping, BUT this installation will no longer be NEC compliant. Your other choice is to install a Switched Neutral Kit (SNK) accessory with your transfer switch, available thru our website.
TL;DR Neutral bonded generator, neutral should be transfered; Floating Neutral, it is not necessary.
The conversion cables are rated for 30 amps.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO7130/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVE93PU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get this: https://www.costco.ca/Firman-H08053-Hybrid-Series-Dual-Fuel-Portable-Generator.product.100364803.html
And this: Mroinge Automotive Trickle Battery Charger Maintainer 12V 1A Smart Automatic Battery Charger for Car Motorcycle Boat Lawn Mower Sla Atv Wet Agm Gel Cell Lead Acid Batteries https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B010NRKERI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7rojDbGT3EC43
Then a 30lb tank at costco filled for 85$
Then get this:
Reliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit with Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, and Power Inlet Box for Up to 8,000-Watt Generators https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HS2L3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3nojDb6PD5Q25
Should only cost $1000 to install from a contactor or electrician.
Thanks again.
You inspired me to spend some more time with it this weekend, and I think I've located a possible culprit.
I use this OMC fitting and have it plugged into this aluminum cap. This weekend I disconnected the generator from the 12g outboard tank to remove possible failure points. I ran the generator "normally", and after about 15 minutes it struggled, sputtered and died.
What you mentioned about vapor locking came to mind, so I inspected the valve and depressed the spring-loaded bit on the lower nipple. This created a quick suction effect.
I realized this piece probably needs to be in the open position for it to vent properly, so I removed the aluminum cap and put back on the OEM plastic cap, and it ran for an hour without dying.
This leads me to believe that maybe the springy bit isn't being depressed properly by the quick-release valve I use to connect it to the outboard tank.
I think my next experiment will be to either get a new quick-release valve, or maybe find a way to jam the button down while running it off the tank (just for experiment sake - I know it needs to close itself when not in use).
Seem legit?
If you're in a place with a lot of rain and a shallow water table, they sell a hat
You are correct, I was mistaken. It was the inverter that came with the panels that was 1500w. However, here's a few decent deals under (or near) $400:
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However, I have a really cool idea. If a strong enough brace could be made, a wind turbine could be used as the primary power source if the bus is driven every day or so anyway. This wind turbine would suit:
Clicky
All you really need is a transfer switch of some sort and an AC inverter hooked up to your car's 12v system. Just don't draw more power than the car's dc-dc converter can make.
This won't be a hardwired installation, so if I ever do work on it I would unplug it for sure. The only downside I see to switching the neutral is that if i want to mount the switch remotely, i need to run two 3-conductor power cords to the switchbox, instead of just one.
The switch in using is a Woodstock D4157 (see link below), which I think is a pretty common switch to use on woodworking power tools.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005W17GZE
The way it's hooked up in the pictures, the switch would control the outlet, but there's no incoming power or power going to the saw. In pic #5 are the wires you are holding coming from the motor? Is there a switch for the saw?
I can't really make sense of how it might have been hooked up based on what's left, but that doesn't really matter. Remove the switch, outlet, and wire between the two boxes. Get an appliance cord that's rated for more than the amperage of the saw, it should be listed on a label on the motor.
If there's not a separate switch for the saw, you could put in a sweet ass one like this, or a regular switch, but make sure it's rated for enough amperage, like the cord.
Depending on what you have, and what you decide to do, I can explain how to hook it up if you want.
Technically using this and this would work, but you should just have an electrician change the dryer breaker to a two-pole 15 amp and change the outlet to a 6-15.
Correct. Dryer (30) and stove (50). Cable is a 10/3 100ft Conntek.
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-RUL630PR-100-L6-30-Extension-100-Feet/dp/B074MNLD6R
Generac sells a switched neutral kit that will do your neutral for you by using the input from the generator to switch a contactor to isolate the subpanel's neutral from the bonded main panel.
It's a bit pricey, so if you know what you're doing, you can buy the same contactor they use in their setup for $14 and build the harness yourself.
The nice part is that if you follow the instructions, it's rated for any transfer switch or subpanel setup so your inspector shouldn't have any problems with it.
Just bought this for my gas furnace to power from my volt when the power is out:
EZ GENERATOR SWITCH - Generator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FADDE0A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FADDE0A/ref=asc_df_B00FADDE0A5375732/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00FADDE0A&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064505516&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12551154654095589333&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011747&hvtargid=pla-320968523428
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-PL1430L630-Generator-Adapter-250-volt/dp/B00DVE93PU/
Does this look right to you?
Is your pellet stove your only source of heat? Do you turn it down at night? If your pellet stove pipe going out of the house has some rise to it, for the most part it still has some ability to get the smoke out due to chimney effect. If your pipe is just sticking straight out of your wall , you might want to extend the pipe up on the outside of the house to encourage more draft.
you can use a battery back up (like the kind for a computer) - they have an alarm on them and will beep while in battery mode, so that might be able to wake you up in the night to alert you that the power went out.
If the power does go out enough at your place; i would highly suggest adding a generator plus transfer switch. I have one. it is not automatic and i would have to hook up the generator to the house, flip the transfer switch etc. but i made sure the outlet my stove uses is also one of the covered circuits.
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Example Transfer Switch Kit - this is the one i used. Very happy with it. They do have other options. I have a well pump that needs 240. Just about everything in my home is covered except for the AC (i have a separate boiler for heat and hot water that is covered) and i have a sub panel for an addition on my house. If i need power for the addition i can run an extension cord.
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Corporation-31410CRK-10-circuit-Generators/dp/B000HS2L3O
Personally, i dont run my stove when i am sleeping or not home. I have hydronic heat for the house, the stove is to help keep the uninsulated part of the house warm. But i understand your concern and needs if it is your only heat.
>Most important feature is mp3 playback from usb, so I can just grab any anti-dog frequency from youtube and extract to MP3 and let the unit play it back repeatedly when turned on from a usb pendrive.
Make sure you get a clean source audio from elsewhere but youtube. Some youtube video have a cutoff frequency due to flash player. Low bitrate mp3's bad compression will mess with the freq too.
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here is the best way to do it.
You should get one of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQN4T2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370105318&sr=1-1&pi=SL75
Allows you to use the houses outlets with your generator.