Best paddlesports foam block rooftop carriers according to redditors

These work great, however they can damage your door seals, and your paint if not strapped down carefully.

With just one kayak you can get away with some foam pads and straps. You don't necessarily need the foam pads, but they'll help you cinch the kayaks down properly to the car. You should be able to grab the edge of the kayak and rock the whole car if cinched down good.


Something like either of these:

https://amzn.com/B00PCNIPBG

or

https://amzn.com/B001OPO7O0


If you are going to be transporting two kayaks, then you'll want a kayak rack system of some sort to do without as much hassle.

This company makes some good affordable products:

http://www.packemracks.com/sportsmans.html

You should be able to get going for $150 total.

I bought the $25 propel paddle from academy, works just fine. My kayak came with one but It seemed too short so I bought this one because it was about a foot longer.
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/no-limits-propel-94-kayak-paddle?repChildCatid=824204

PFD $25 walmart.

Milk crate from dicks sporting goods $10

Anchor $10

Rope $5

DIY rod holders - $4 for 10' of 2" pvc

Bungies assorted $5

You can get a kayak roof kit for $30 which is just some straps and a block of foam to protect your roof.

http://www.amazon.com/SportRack-Replacement-14-Inch-Kayak-Block/dp/B00BCLL4LA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451264836&sr=8-1&keywords=kayak+roof+foam

http://www.amazon.com/Roof-Kayak-Carrier-Foam-Blocks/dp/B00PCNIPBG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451264836&sr=8-4&keywords=kayak+roof+foam

I bought my kayak used and it came with a trailer - so I put a hitch on my car for $105 self installed. Euroball mount was $20. Registering the trailer was $28.

This kit worked great for me

What kind of kayak are you thinking of getting?

If it can fit inside your vehicle without impeding your driving then that is probably fine, if you have to force it to make it fit then it's probably less fine.

If you have a hard-top on your jeep then there's also the option of using foam blocks (something like https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-11438-7-Kayak-Car-Top-Carrier/dp/B003EET2OE/) instead of a full set of cross bars. You should be able to find them at just about any store that sells kayak stuff. They're a little less convenient then a set of cross bars but they work well enough if you're careful and they're cheap.

just foam blocks. https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-11438-7-Kayak-Car-Top-Carrier/dp/B003EET2OE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526495477&sr=8-3&keywords=foam+kayak+blocks

Hey fellow mazda owner (protege here). If you want a nice option go with a good roof rack, but if you want a cheap/decent option go with this guy:

http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Car-Top-Kayak-Carrier-Kit/dp/B003EET2OE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375188645&sr=8-2&keywords=kayak+roof

If I had the money I'd get something nicer, but this does the job

The most inexpensive method would be to buy an attwood car rack set - foam holders, cam straps, and ropes. You can wrap the cam straps around the kayak and through your car windows- essentially holding the kayak to the upper part of the car. ALWAYS tie down at least either the stern or bow of the kayak to the back/front or the car- ideally both.

I was thinking of doing the pool noodles but went with https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003EET2OE/ref=ya_st_dp_summary instead.

Hoping it works well.

Try this!

I have a friend who says she uses this setup for their boat and it works well (she also doesn't have roof bars, she drives a Camry): https://smile.amazon.com/Attwood-11438-7-Kayak-Car-Top-Carrier/dp/B003EET2OE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521808778&sr=8-3&keywords=kayak+car

You can't go wrong with these. Attwood Car-Top Kayak Carrier Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EET2OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dAllzbS73ATFQ

I'm going to pick this up on Sunday to transport my new boat on my little Honda fit. Should work for you as well, and a little more comforting than a pool noodle rig in my opinion.

attwood 11438-7 Universal Rack-Free Car-Top Kayak Carrier Kit with Supporting Foam Blocks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EET2OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ugiTCbWZCJ677

This is what I used for my 2015 Nissan Altima very similar to the Accord

I am hoping to buy my first kayak tomorrow as I check into a used one, so don't take this as expert advice.

This [one[(http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=31230526&cp=4406646.4413887.4413986.4417717.4417969) at Dick's is the same kayak with two rod holders. A comparable car carrier kit from amazon costs $25. The BJ's version comes with a paddle, while you can get a cheap paddle for $30.

So, I'm thinking, for about $50, is it worth it to install a rod holder or two? You could actually do the foam car carrier yourself by going to a fabric store, where they will sell foam. I suspect a couple of pieces of foam like that would just cost a few dollars. They might even have it as scrap for nothing (if you're especially lucky or handsome).

I have a 2000 civic hatchback DX so we basically have the same car but my car has a bigger butt. I bought this 25$ foam kit off amazon and it works fine. I also got these hooks and installed them on the radiator bolts and carry the kayak in the center of the roof. Two straps that came with the foam kit across the kayak and through the door shutting both doors on the straps, one more like it from tail of kayak to tow hook in the back, and one of the ropes off the nose like a V attaching to these two hooks on the front of the car. If you want to go more expensive there is this 90$ inflatable roof rack. I went with the cheaper route because I usually have a truck but the few times I don't I want to be able to still go out. I've yet to have an issue with the foam blocks. They work really well.

Edit, I also have a moonroof installed on my car. Tightened down tighter then it probably needs to be, the kayak almost touches the moonroof.

Keep seeing posts looking for mount options on small cars. Your car probably has tow sockets front and rear + one loop for either. These handle thousands of pounds and you probably have the first one in your jack kit already. Just get a second factory tow loop off eBay for the pair.

Remove the covers and screw in the anchors. Then run straps front and rear plus through the side windows. Ratchet straps are best. Tighten all 3-4 straps until you can’t wiggle the boat with good force.

Photo shows a triangular strap setup since our factory mounts are off center. Third strap goes through the opposite window and to a grab handle. Protect hood paint with a soft cloth. Also shown are purpose bought foam supports front and rear. Complete setup is stable at highway speeds.

LINKS

Foam Kayak Blocks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCLL4LA/


Straps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7P7EOX/


Flag

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F4RX3AM/

Anchors - eBay search: make + model + some of tow hook towing eye loop bracket ring

For some reason every comment in this thread seems to get downvoted. I'm rather curious as to why that would be.

Also, you say you have a factory rack; are there cross rails installed, or just the front to back? If there are no crossrails, you will have to add them. I recommend Thule, but it doesn't matter very much; just settle on a pair that you feel is a good value and doesn't cause too much wind noise.

There are quite a few options, depending on budget, frequency of use, and what else you intend to do. Let me offer a few suggestions ranging in price.

1. Simplest/cheapest: foam blocks and web straps. Less than $50 total, but the least convenient and the least secure.
   
   
2. J-bars: the standard approach for one boat, and available in a few different choices by budget and special features. Price can vary from $50 for a cheap set on ebay, to $150 for the deluxe foldable ones.
   
   
3. Specialized single-boat carriers, such as Yakima's roller setup or the Hull-a-vator.
   
   
4. Multi-boat: "stacker" setups, available from both Thule and Yakima with only subtle differences.
   
   No matter which solution you choose, you will need some web straps. Most kits come with some, but there's no harm in having extras. NRS and Thule make the best straps, if you're willing to pay $15 or more per strap. I found some cheapies at Harbor Freight for all of $2 each, which work perfectly and since they're so cheap, I just bought a ton of them and cut a pair to length for each boat's specific needs. (Six boat fleet). I'm sure there are similar deals on Amazon and eBay, but I saw these at the local store and I just grab another set whenever I see them on sale. I have a few sets of high-end straps, but after lots of trial and error I've settled on the cheap ones for all kayak transport, and the premium straps only come out for the wood canoe (because they're rubberized to better protect the surface; not an issue with a plastic boat.)
   
   With the factory roof rack, the most basic recommendation would be to just use the foam blocks and a few web straps. This solution gets you safely on the road for less than $50. The foam blocks are essentially generic; different shops sell different brands for different prices, but what you would want are two of the wide "V" shaped blocks to mount to the top of your roof rails. Example from Amazon. I used a knife to shape the bottom of the blocks to "lock" on to my factory bars, but even if you do that perfectly you'll still want to remove the blocks when not transporting your boat. Put the blocks on your factory rails, set the boat on top of the foam blocks, and tie the boat down with straps. For this method, wrap the strap around the bar twice on each side of the kayak twice to keep it from sliding sideways. The strap should wrap around the roof bar on both sides of the kayak, running above the boat twice, not passing under the boat at all. It's hard to explain, so if you're confused ask and I'll go take a picture of my straps outside.
   
   The next up is j-bars... despite extensive downvotes, the conversation elsewhere in this thread on them explains them adequately. J bars are fairly foolproof as long as you remember to secure them even minimally with a strap. They require a bit more lifting than any other solution, but once you've got the boat up, it will stay put, and you're unlikely to ever warp your hull.
   
   Fancier solutions:
   Yakima rollers - I just helped a friend set these up for her Carolina, and she loves it. She has back problems, but the roller setup makes loading really easy. The downside is that it does little to simplify tying down; you're still essentially stuck doing the double loop method that you'd need with the foam blocks.
   
   Hullavator - it's essentially a J-bar that hydraulically lowers down from your roof. It's the most expensive and sophisticated option there is. It's a luxury item that costs almost as much as your boat. You don't need it.
   
   Stackers - I wouldn't actually recommend stackers for your setup. Know that they exist; they're essentially a set of vertical towers that you can use as attachment points to secure multiple boats. A set of stackers can carry up to six boats safely, or more if used creatively. For one boat, stackers add unnecessary compromises. But they are the most versatile solution available, and a prudent choice if you know you're gonna get addicted and buy more boats.

They sell these kayak mounting kits Here

I used one of these on a 13.5' Feelfree Lure on top of a '08 Pontiac Grand Prix for two seasons without much issue. The advice I would have is if you want make sure you don't scratch anything, put a blanket down while getting everything in place.