Best pool maintanance kits according to redditors
We found 12 Reddit comments discussing the best pool maintanance kits. We ranked the 10 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 12 Reddit comments discussing the best pool maintanance kits. We ranked the 10 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
It's a failed project. The key component here is a water pump, it's very loud and it uses a lot of power. They hide it in their promotional videos. You'll notice that they use voice-overs or music when showing how the bin works.
Edit: also, their website doesn't list any technical specs at all. Literally all they say is that it uses an electric pump, either 110, 240 or 24 volts. No details about water flow, power consumption, noise, maintenance, estimated lifetime of the pump. It's just stock photos and inspirational stuff about saving the world and all that.
Their Indiegogo campaign said that deliveries will start in 2016, yet the product is still not finished. Estimated retail price is $3,800. Very similar products can be bought for a $100.
Edit2: Here is their Indiegogo campaign from 2016. They exceeded their goal by a significant margin, yet they never shipped any bins. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/cleaning-the-oceans-one-marina-at-a-time#/
Leaf vacuum, connects to the pole and hose pipe. Doesn’t clog your filter just make sure to get some spare bags they tear easy. HydroTools by Swimline Venturi Pool Leaf Bagger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032Z84VW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sIInDb2A1QJ51
The easiest way is to get a pool net and dredge it.
Unfortunately not, you would need to drain just below the skimmer because the stuff needs 12 hours to set. The directions will say it shouldn't be used below a waterline, but we haven't had problems with it. If you don't want to drain the pool you could always try Pool Putty, which is a 2-part epoxy that you mold together with your hands like clay. That stuff can be applied underwater and will cure there as well. We usually use to fill cracks underwater but I'm sure it will hold down a plastic ring too.
If you're ordering online, get this
otherwise, your local pool shop will probably have some sort of acid-based tile cleaner. Many of them are kinda a gel texture with a mixture of fluric and hydrochloric acid to dissolve the calcium.
You need this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/PoolSkim-Pool-Skimmer-Cleaner/dp/B002WKOEGM
Probably the single best purchase I’ve ever made in my entire life. Total game changer. I’d easily pay ten times the amount.
-NW Florida with an uncovered pool.
Try this. I have it as a secondary skimmer and find that it catches more that the main one.
Poolskim
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WKOEGM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
As a long time broadcast engineer and amateur radio operator, working this kind of project is fun for me, so I enjoy helping any way I can.
Let's start with some assumptions:
With these as a starting point, the hydrophone from this system could be connected to a commercial VHF wireless microphone transmitter like this. With some small modifications, these low-power units could be solar powered. Transmitting and power supply equipment (including batteries) could be mounted in a sealed enclosure like one of these.
To extend the range, the wireless transmitter could connect to commercial TV antennas to provide a link of 500 ft. or more. The receiver could be connected to almost any audio system for listening or to the audio input of a laptop computer for recording. This setup would be inexpensive and "real-time" with microseconds of delay between an actual sound and when it was heard.
A second level might be a digital setup based on a computer and streaming transmission between the remote audio source and a receive point using IP. This would be more expensive but would have a number of advantages, including the ability to record the audio at the hydrophone site for later recovery. There are a wide variety of commercial IP radio links available for short-range (up to the radio horizon) transmission to connect to a LAN and/or the public internet. It's also possible to use satellite connectivity such as Hughesnet, for nearly unlimited coverage.
A power system like this could power almost any setup you might want to use. A much smaller system could power a low-power direct link.
Hope this gives you some ideas on how to start.
I'm insanely curious about this, so please if you have questions, please ask.
Larry
That is a good link. Here are my thoughts. In most places in teh country water is abundant and cheap, much more so than chemicals. So I would partially drain the pool if it looks really dirty and green. How much to drain is an excellent question. If your pool is a liner based pool, you need to keep at least 12 to 18 inches of water in the shallow end to prevent the liner from moving around. If your pool is fiberglass, then you have to keep water in teh pool to keep it from floating up. If it is a gunnite pool, you can completely drain it, but snot want to keep it drained for very long. Someone with more gunnite knowledge can add more details to this.
So I woudl remove some water. Take a Leaf Rake attachment to your pool pole (like this one http://www.amazon.com/Swimline-8040-Professional-Heavy-Deep-Bag/dp/B000MOIWWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464187999&sr=8-1&keywords=pool+leaf+rake) and then go along the bottom to scoop out any larger physical debris. At that point, add water, and as soon as possible, SLAM the pool and get the filter running. If it is really dirty water, you might need to backflush to clean your filters out a few times depending on your filter type.
A chlorine float will help extend the time in between draining and refilling if you don't have a pump and filter.
Well - first off, everything is much newer and in better shape than I expected.
Like I said you should be able to get copies of all of the manuals ( if you do not already have them) on line. In particular the pump/strainer and the filter.
If the pool is just green, and not too much real debris, you can probably get it running as soon as you fill it up. Even if you keep it covered, I would get it up an running so you can learn about everything now.
Pics - 1&8 Muriatic Acid, very strong, and it is hazardous, but also very effective. I prefer using this. As for the condition, it is probably OK...
2 - Fountain , yes decorative only
3 - Liner cleaner, I am assuming the pool needs to be empty to use this. If there is a date on it and less than 2-3 years you could keep it. You may have a ring on the liner where the water level is now. This may help. - but I have not used this and do not know how damaging it is if a little gets into the water.
4 - > Looks like a handle, perhaps for maintenance of something. ( ref the manuals)
5 - No idea, looks serious and like a lot of it. Check the manuals.
6&10, 13-no label, double wrap in heavy plastic bag, and trash it. ( if inside it is tablets then it is chlorine - I would keep tablets, but any unmarked powers, granular, liquids - trash)
7- Pretty sure this is the vacuum cleaner attachment, you set this on top of the skimmer, and connect the vacuum hose for suction.
9 - Yes it is a part you probably want, it may be a discharge fitting to help with draining the pool.
11 - the safer alternative to the Nuriatic acid. Worth keeping.
12 - just an another alternate. Since it has a label it should say specifically what the chemical is. ( Keep for now)
14 - no idea, too small to be for the pump. Perhaps a charging cable for the fountain?
15 - I agree - looks to be the same part, but one may have come with the skimmer, and one with the vacuum. Keep
16 - Same ( they may fit different size vacuum hoses, etc.)
17 Keep
18 - too blurry, but also looks like lube ( did the previous owner have a boat?)
19 - the pole on the vacuum ( background) has spring buttons, so the pole is used for the skimmer net, brushes and the vacuum.
20 - no idea - have fun
22 - that looks like the type of brush used to clean a boat ( more evidence) If he had a boat the Lube in 5 and possibly 18, may also explain 20)
23 - the hose going to the Strainer Backet will be connected to the SKimmer on the side of the pool. ( that is the intake,)
24 -25 - Yes - the Strainer basket, pump and pump motor are all one assembly. ( Is the electrical cord terminated with a reguar plug??)
Looks to be in OK shape - but not the cleanest / neatest assembly.
26 - Yes - filter
27 - Pressure gauge ( indicates how dirty the filter is, but also that there is water flowing - etc)
28 - Paper cartridge filter ( what I can see looks to be in good shape) - when you get up and running this should be very low to little maintenance over the course of a summer. But for now - get up and running as it is, when the pool clears up - you may want to remove and hose this down. - will take about 20 minutes.
29 - Yes - I have an in-ground with paper - and have been amazed how well these work and how little maintenance. I have not replaced mine, I give them a good cleaning in the fall when I close.
30-31 - Yep
32 - Yep - check both ends of the hose for the fit.
36 - Yep ( may want to replace this)
37 - this one is newer and a little prettier - and has the deluxe termo!
38 - Skimmer basket - take to the pool store and get a new one.
39 - Plug for winterizing - this will plug the wall nozzle ( return)
40 -- Bottom of the Skimmer - see the same plug type.
45 - Skimmer net (doe not go IN the Skimmer) just what I call it...- not perfect, use this for the clean up and get a new one for regular maintenance in the future. ( so you do not beat up a new on doing the initial cleaning)
OK -- so like I said not too bad....
Connections --
Side Skimmer hose - to strainer basket on the pump. Exit of the pump with hose to the filter housing, will need to check the manual for which in the inlet and outlet on the filter housing (probably labeled though). Hose from exit of filter to the nozzle on the side next to the skimmer ( Pic 43). ( You should have three hose sections - to do this)
If you can get a small water pump, like a sump pump wihhout the float switch. LIKE THIS - you will use this over the winters to keep the water off of the cover in the future. ( There are automatic ones - but I have found that a basic pump like this - and turning it on manually lasts longer and costs less - it is OK to have water on the cover for a short period of time, you just do not want it on there to grow stuff collect debris)
Pump the water off of the cover, then remove it.
Hard to tell really how bad the water in the pool is - but I would probably go ahead and use that and top it off, instead of completely draining and refilling.
If you want to empty it completely - you can use the pump, but may need to rearrange the hoses to get one long enough to go over the wall and to the bottom. ( I guess you could hook up the vacuum - but this will slow down the process)
The important thing is to make sure the pump has water when you turn it on. You will probably have to prime it, by filling the strainer basket with the garden hose and then replace the cover.
Monitor the pump when starting up and make sure it does not run empty after this for more than 1 minute or so - it may take some time to get the water flowing if you are using the vacuum and the water level is too low.
Put the hose in, start filling,
You can get the water tested now - typically free at the pool store, but you will be making a few adjustments and at first, we just need it chlorinated and cleaned up.
30' round 52" pool is ... 21K Gallons. I did not realize they had so much water! - anyway the pool store will want to know this and they typically will set up a record in their system. This will help them tell you how much of the chemicals you will need in the future. But do not let them sell you a bunch of chemicals right now - the water is so out of balance right now I do not think a test will be very useful)
If you are not going to completely drain the pool, once filled and connected, add 2 Lbs of the Shock. -- and start running the pump. I would add the 2lbs of Baking Soda now, but others may disagree...- actually 21K Gal you can use 4 lbs.
Once running for 3-4 hours test the Chlorine and PH , keep CL above 3.0 for a day. - I am pretty sure you will see remarkable difference in 1 day.
OK - I got to go back to work - haha
This is the salt tester I use it works great and is very accurate: https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLX-SALTMETER-Digital-Handheld-Meter/dp/B005IVZKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185291&sr=8-1&keywords=hayward+salt+tester
If I had the time I would always use the test kit for Salt which you can find here: https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-INC-K-1766-CHLORIDE/dp/B001DO35EU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185345&sr=8-1&keywords=salt+test+kit
Also, if you are using strips you might want to consider going towards an actual test kit that is reliable such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Technologies-K-2005-Test-Complete/dp/B00HEAQO5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185320&sr=8-3&keywords=taylor+test+kit+salt
The cheapest option would be to purchase the test kit for salt and continue using the strips. I recommend no strips and using the salt test kit and a normal Taylor test kit.