(Part 2) Best sewing books according to redditors
We found 185 Reddit comments discussing the best sewing books. We ranked the 70 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
(Part 4/4)
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Fit
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Fit rules are obviously entirely dependent on your body type and personal preferences, so I won't write mine out here. Almost everything I know about fit I learned from Antonio Donnanno's series Fashion Patternmaking Techniques and Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear, which are actually textbooks about pattern drafting but have decent sections on addressing fit issues in making those patterns that can also be applied to buying RTW. Kenneth King's Smart Fitting Solutions is also good. (Expensive books -- check your library for them or something similar if you don't actually want to learn pattern drafting.)
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--Tailoring: If you don't know enough to know what needs to be done, I usually recommend that people buy the item and take it to a trusted tailor to ask what they think. (Obviously don't do this if it can't be returned, and *definitely* don't try to return something you've already had altered!) I don't normally trust department store alterationists -- I think they're usually talented people, but I also suspect they're encouraged to tell you that anything is possible so they can make a sale. I also don't trust any tailor/alterationist where you (1) can't see any sewing machines in the shop (like most dry cleaners' offering alterations), or (2) they don't make you try on the item in the shop and pin it there for you. Sewing machines + changing cabins are both signs that you're working with someone who actually knows what they're doing.
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Maintenance
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--Washing and drying: So, continuing to prove that I am insane, I hand-wash all my clothes in the sink or shower and hang them to dry or dry them flat. Washing and (eek!) drying are probably the cause of most wear on tear on the average garment. I find commercial detergents are too harsh, even the fancy eco/gentle ones. Instead, I use Marseille soap (which is called Castille soap in America I think), a variant of Marseille soap called savon détachant (stain-removal soap, link in French), and washing soda.
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--Dry cleaning: I never dry-clean my things because I think it damages the fibres, but I have no proof this is actually the case. I had my coat dry-cleaned once and swear the fabric felt thinner when it came back. At any rate, I find it a hassle and can't stand the smell.
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--Ironing and steaming: I actually have no rules on this (other than that my Rowenta iron was NOT worth the money), but I wanted a chance to share this awesome video of an absolute master ironing a shirt.
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--Repairs: I expect to have to repair my stuff. Learn to mend holes both by re-stitching seams and by darning (knits) or patching (wovens), and to sew buttons. Anything else can be done by a tailor if you don't want to learn how to do it yourself.
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I also always like to put in a plug for invisible mending whenever I can. It's a dying art where they basically pull threads from invisible parts of the garment fabric (like seam allowances) and weave it back into the main fabric to repair holes. The end result is basically undetectable. It's expensive to have done, but if you have a beloved piece that's got holes, this might be worth it. There are similar techniques for knit fabrics, but I'm not aware of anyone offering them commercially (but here is an awesome video of a pro repairing a ladder in a knit).
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--Pilling: A wool comb is also a necessity if you wear sweaters. I don't go in for any of the electric sweater shavers, but TBH I've never tried them -- the £3.50 wool comb works just fine, lasts years, and doesn't create any electronics waste. There is a variant made specifically for cashmere with differently shaped 'teeth' (they're less sharp/abrasive) that is also worth owning if you wear a lot of cashmere. I think most specialty cashmere shops sell their own one of these, and they're usually a lot cheaper than 9€ (I think mine was like £4).
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Ethics
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I will admit that I'm not a hugely 'ethical' shopping -- I fall solidly into the demographic of people who would like to shop more ethically, but then gets lured away by shiny things elsewhere. Frankly, I'm moderately sceptical of most companies' claims to 'ethics'. I prefer to look for items that meet all my rules -- consuming less is one way to reduce environmental damage, and trust me, with all these rules I *really* don't buy much lol. I also have a slight preferences for brands that manufacture in the EU (where I live), mostly because I am a nerd for heritage factories and like locally produced goods, but also because the environmental regulation is mostly decent.
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The brand blacklist
Sometimes, despite all of the above, I end up buying something that doesn't meet my quality standards over repeated wears. If this happens, I blacklist the entire brand. The one exception: if it's a legitimate manufacturing fault (shit happens) and the company offers a suitable repair/replacement without making me fight for it. I don't know why I'm this vicious about it, I just am. *shrug*
I'm a huge historical costuming nerd and 18th century is a favorite period of mine. American Duchess' patterns with simplicity are a fabulous place to start.
Use 8579 for your stays, pocket hoops, and chemise.
Watch this video from AD to get some tips about the stays before attempting to make them. They have some tips that Simplicity's pattern instructions simply don't have.
Use 8578 for your gown
For extra help with the gown, you can always check out AD's Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking. It's aimed at hand sewing techniques but has some invaluable information for how it was done back then, and very clear step by step photos and instructions that can help you if/when the pattern throws you for a loop. It also has excellent instructions for how to get the gown to fit properly.
There are plenty of hairstyle tutorials too so find one you like and don't neglect your hair after you've made your beautiful gown. :) It completes the look!
You will want to get a copy of Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion (https://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Clothes-1560-1620/dp/0896760839/ref=pd_sbs_14_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0W87GRAAK069HWTTFWD3)
There are a series of 3 outfits in that book that belonged to some Swedish nobles (the Sture family) in the 1560's that will give you a fairly good pattern for the clothing that you want.
Those pants are called "pluderhosen" and are pretty tricky to construct. I'm someone with a decent amount of historical costuming experience and I'm just now starting the project to make these after building 4 pairs of simpler pants to work on building up the techniques. I'm fairly satisfied with my most recent version which is based on some of the more simple versions in the Meyer fechtbuch that lack panes, and that might be a good place for you to start as well.
These pants are quite the engineering project, so you'll have to carefully read Janet Arnold's notes and take care to make sure that you understand the correct techniques. There are a large number of gathers and these all must be hand-sewn or the garment will not work. Keep in mind that there is a form-fitting inner lining, an overly large lining layer that is gathered at the waist & leg cuff, and another somewhat fitted (in the crotch) outer layer that includes the panes.
Yes there is a codpiece. It's fairly substantial, but it gets hidden somewhat by the puffs of its inter-lining and it gets somewhat buried by the volume of fabric that surrounds it.
The length of the pluderhosen seems to vary between just above the knee and just below the knee. Longer seems to be more popular with younger, more flashy men and shorter seems to be the more conservative version for the period you're interested in.
Patterns of fashion also has a pattern for a shirts and doublets that should provide a similar fit to the ones seen here.
You may also want to pick up Matthew Gnagy's "The Modern Maker vol 1: Men's doublets" (https://www.amazon.com/Modern-Maker-Mens-Century-Doublets/dp/0692264841). The book describes all of the steps for constructing a doublet (they're more complicated than you might think), though the pattern provided by that book is Spanish and is from a few decades later than the Meyer Fechtbuch.
The two big details to keep in mind are 1) doublets stop at the natural waist (belly-button level) not your hips (which is where modern people usually wear their pants) and 2) the German doublets have a more squared waistline compared to English, Spanish, & French doublets of the era.
The "extra" piece of clothing over the doublet is a jerkin. In German, these get called a "ledergollar." They were frequently made of leather and slashed or pierced. There's a nifty one in Patterns of Fashion that you could use for a pattern; though the original was meant for a child.
The hats of the 1570's aren't the "pizza hat." Those are the really large hats from the earlier "landsknecht" era. By the 1570's the hats are smaller (like in picture #7 of your album), though a lot of woodcuts from this era show a different style called a "tall hat." The floppy hat that you linked (pic 7) is probably a variant of the flat cap. There are some flat cap patterns in Patterns of Fashion, though IIRC, those all require a bit of a gather, which is probably not quite how to make the one that you linked. Tall hats are kind of a cross between a bowler hat and a top hat. They're constructed using wool felt that is shaped over a hat block. You could also get away with a knit and fulled wool flat cap for this period.
The comments are split into two camps: the "get out and do it" bunch, and those actually listing books. While of course there's no replacement for practice and experience, it isn't always possible to get outdoors the practice, and reading is a good way to correct your perceptions, learn new tricks, or find new ideas and inspirations.
The internet is a great place to start. There are a ton of excellent websites and forums in a variety of topics, and of course the inevitable YouTube channels, although I'm not so much a fan of videos. Be careful about online advice though; try and check reputations first, and validate things they are saying against your own experience (and, often, against common sense). That's the bad side of a place where anybody can say anything - lots of bad advice, and conflicting opinions.
Here's my book list though:
I also have a bunch of guidebooks on recognising trees, wild flowers, insects, birds, and so on, which are always useful skills to have. As with Gatty's book, watching the world around you and understanding the patterns of weather, animals, birds, and insects will give you lots of valuable clues about what's happening and how to predict changes in the environment. Trust the birds and the insects; they've been doing it a lot longer than you have!
You have a VERY coveted machine, in an equally coveted cabinet! The 201 is/was considered the sewing machine fit for a princess. It will be EXCELLENT for learning to sew. These vintage machines are generally much more powerful than modern sewing machines, so will easily sew through many layers of thick fabric, but also will produce excellent seams on fine fabric and everything in between.
I knew nothing about fixing machines, but I managed to ressurect a completely gunked up and stuck/frozen treadled Singer from 1927. It now works GREAT and is far stronger than any of my modern machines. I expect it to outlive me! This book got me started, it's very helpful, but may not have all of the info you need: How to Select, Service, Repair & Maintain your Vintage Sewing Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/1507500998/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GnItDbRN626MQ
My main concern for your 201 would be that the wiring of the motor could be bad, due to age. It can be fixed! But don't try to plug it in and use it until you can be sure there is not a short, causing you to get a bad shock. I don't know if you'll find a professional to replace wiring for you, but for some machines it looks fairly straightforward.
Hang on to the old sewing stuff from the drawers, there are people who collect it. Some items might look ancient, but will be perfectly usable, so don't make that judgement yet if you don't know how to sew. Do keep the bottle of oil in a separate place, rather than risk it spilling into the either stuff.
A place to start will be to learn how to raise the machine from the cabinet into position for sewing, wipe away the dust (don't use any cleaning supplies yet, just a dry cloth), and start oiling the machine according to instructions for your machine, using fresh sewing machine oil. This is what I use, but I buy it locally at Walmart or a fabric store. Do not use anything but sewing machine oil to oil your machine!
Dritz Sewing Machine Oil, 4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQESLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RwItDbGTG4KXC
There is a world of info out there on servicing and using these vintage machines, but hopefully this will get you started.
Check out the recent American Duchess book. She skips over a lot of info, not the method for the dresses and accessories are there. There are some Simplicity patterns associated with the book, too, but I'm not sure what Simplicity has done to them since they've been submitted. Definitely look up reviews before buying any of them. There have also been a series of posts on the American Duchess blog about patterns for stuff not included in the book. I linked to the one about stays.
As for patterns themselves, give Reconstructing History a miss. They are poorly graded. I haven't used them, but the JP Ryan patterns get good reviews.
If you're comfortable with flat pattern drafting, then there's a book by Elizabeth Friendship called Creating Historical Clothes that will guide you through using body measurements to create patterns. It doesn't tell you how to put them together, but if you have a difficult to fit body, you might find it a good choice.
The best thing would be if you could find a group with people who are already familiar with sewing for the period and who can help you out. Eras with only handsewing approach things differently than eras with machine sewing, so there can be some things that will take modern seamstresses by surprise.
Here are some other free sewing and craft books on Amazon...
11 Sewing Room Ideas: How to Organize Your Room 86 pages
Sewing for Baby: 11 Small Sewing Projects for Your Little One
May Martin's Sewing Bible e-short 1: Everything You Need to Get You Started 40 pages
Quilt pattern - Yo-Yo Flags
Fairytale Pincushion and Thread Catcher Sewing Pattern
Encyclopedia of Needlework by Thérèse de Dillmont
- the hardcover of this book sells for $23
Duct Tape Bags
Practical Duct Tape Projects
Pink Little Lady Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
Easy Quilt Patterns: 11 Applique Quilt Patterns + Quick Quilts
For a beginner sewing machine I would probably look for something basic by singer or brother. I have had pretty good luck with them. Right now I am using a Singer Simple 2263 and for a fairly basic machine I have been very happy with it and have not had trouble. I see them going used for about $50.
A pillow is probably a good first project since it will be fairly simple and give you a chance to get used to using a machine etc. I don't have any real good recommendations in terms of tutorials online, but there are tons if you look around.
I will say I often times check thrift shop book sections to see if they have any good sewing books or magazines for cheap. I have found some really amazing vintage sewing books that spell things out for you. If you want to get into sewing clothing and come across a copy of it [The Better Homes and Gardens Sewing Book from 1961 is a treasure trove of information about custom fitting garments etc] (https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Book-Better-Homes-Gardens/dp/B000HMQ2VW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1526481104&sr=8-6&keywords=the+better+homes+and+gardens+sewing+book) I found my copy at a goodwill for a couple dollars and it was really worth getting.
Singer New Sewing Essentials has helped me out with some basics I didn't know. It's a good book all around to have. I've also heard good things about the Readers Digest one KashmirKnitter posted.
Pajama pants, simple skirts, and tote bags are good projects. How to Start Sewing looks like a good book. I own another book by the group that publishes it, which is very clear. The sewing book has small patterns.
It never hurts to take some classes.
I find it helpful to have a sewing technique book to hand and read carefully through the instructions for each step, rather than just using the basic pattern instructions. This is my most recent purchase but Vogue, Readers Digest, Dorling Kindersley all have similar variations. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Threads-Sewing-Guide-Editor-Baumgartel/dp/1600851444. Take your time, enjoy the process and press every seam (don't just run over with the iron). :)
Youtube is your friend, at least it was mine when I was first getting familiarized with the basics. I started with getting a pretty basic Brother machine for quilting (that's what first got me interested in sewing). And then I went to the store and looked at patterns, picked out some I liked (and were way too advanced for me) and then kind of went from there. Anytime I would come to a part that I was confused on,I would look it up. I got all my basic items like pins, pincushion, tailors chalk, gauge etc...all from walmart or amazon
Edit: and I got this book, I got an old used version and its kind of outdated, but the instructions and techniques stay the same, was SUPER helpful http://www.amazon.com/Simplicity-Simply-Best-Sewing-Book/dp/073942100X/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376504091&sr=8-2&keywords=Simplicity+sewing
I got this book on serging free when I bought my machine through amazon about a year ago, and I absolutely love it. Pair that with the manual, and you really don't need much more. The book is rather short, but the pictures are wonderful, and the detail is perfect for a beginner.
The pattern comes with shoes indeed! Although I might opt to re-design them, I don't know yet. I'm actually really pleased with how flat the feet turned out, even after stuffing. I should have added that I slightly changed the arms and legs for the third doll, Abbi, and her feet will be a bit smaller.
I'll make hair out of yarn, in a similar style to what the author of the pattern does. I find it really pretty, and I love working with yarn. Sometimes with acrylic yarn, I even brush it out and flatten it with a flat iron so it effectively turns into actual faux hair. But with this old-timey look, I'll just keep it as is. If anyone is interested, I can share my hair-making process with you, I'll likely make Aggi's hair tomorrow.
And of course! A challenge would be delightful!
Here is the link to the book: https://www.amazon.com/Storybook-Toys-Projects-Puppets-Softies/dp/1607055503
I want to recommend this book. I checked it out of my local library a few weeks ago and found a lot of useful things in there including how to diagnose thread problems like tension.
https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Clothes-Barbie-Stylish-Outfits/dp/1782215972/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sewing+clothes+for+barbie&qid=1566750682&s=gateway&sprefix=sewing+clothes+for&sr=8-3
I wish they were my patterns! ☺️ this is a great little book. Full size patterns included. I just trace with tracing paper! Some really pretty dresses. Some eh dresses and outfits. ♥️♥️
Too funny!!! They'd be very well made bell-bottoms though!! Many of the vintage books go into much more detail about things like the importance of fabric grain, etc., than the modern ones. This book, Sewing Packs, Pouches, Seats, & Sacks, is a good one for "gear" rather than clothing; the projects include various techniques and even if you're not interested in the specific item, the ideas transfer well. And I've come across it in many a library over the years.
You can do one of two things: buy patterns in the size that corresponds with most of your measurements OR buy patterns that correspond with your largest measurement. Either way, you'll be cutting them up.
The largest measurement one is easiest. Just take the pattern in where it's too big, and add darts or take in seams to compensate for the bust. This is easily done with a muslin mock up fitting.
The other way, you'll have to slash and spread the pattern. Like this: http://i.imgur.com/0bkz2.jpg
sorry for the fuzziness. It's from this book: http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Sewing-Readers-Digest/dp/B003XU7VTW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1331300903&sr=8-3
Thank you for these. I wasn't able to find any Coorlipa videos discussing pants, but you were right that searching r/sewing came up with some useful resources!
The best I found was this blog post, which gives a slightly more professional (compared to the link in my originial comment) description of removing and shortening the waistband.
r/sewing also recommended two sources of alterations info that I have not yet checked out, because they are paywalled:
(1) Phyllis Smith Alterations (ebook, videos)
(2) Bluprint (video series on alterations and pant fitting)
I know of two books that are both available in digital form that might help. Mood Fabrics Fabric Savvy
I don't have personal experience with either. I'd be interested in your review if you try them.