(Part 2) Best thresholds according to redditors
We found 35 Reddit comments discussing the best thresholds. We ranked the 32 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
If you want a quick expedient repair, something like a door-bottom cap or shoe can give you a door that will seal well against weather and air-infiltration for several years to come.
I have to first apologize for the delay in getting back with you. I had to run to the airport today to meet my brother home on leave and it ate up the afternoon and evening.
From the picture of the open door it looks like there originally was a threshold in the doorway but that it was a narrow threshold more commonly seen bridging between flooring types inside a house than for use on the exterior door.
It also looks like a real whack job on the wood threshold that abuts the concrete patio. Whoever did that needs to work on the measure twice, cut once method. That caulked gap looks to be about 3/8" and should be filled all the way. I'd caulk the whole thing if it was mine. It looks like the whole board needs to be trimmed by about 3/8" and then put in place to cover the gap at both sides of the door.
The wood piece in the doorway actually looks like the wooden part of an old-style threshold with the bevel on the inside. It just appears to be missing the middle piece that would have spanned the transition to concrete and filled the gap at the bottom of the door. You could make one yourself if you have the tools and nail it in place but you are better off using one of the ready-made thresholds instead.
Anyway, since there is no threshold now you will want to install one. The one that you have linked will serve to close the gap but will probably not be very durable since it only anchors on one side (L-shaped).
I think you need a U-shaped threshold like this one:
U-Shaped Threshold
It can be firmly attached to the outside of the door and can be fit to the floor across the transition pretty easily.
From the picture of the door it looks like your door thickness is 1-1/4" to 1-1/2", or at least it is less than 1-3/4" so it is an older wood exterior door or perhaps an older interior door now used as an exterior door. (Landlords can be pretty stupid like that.)
If your door is thinner than the u-shaped channel then you will want to shim out the door thickness using a strip of wood, plastic, felt, rubber, etc. of the correct thickness so that you have a snug fit. It appears that a good shim could be produced using one or more of the paint stir sticks like you get at Lowe's or Home Depot. I'm pretty sure they give them away so no cost there.
Just place the threshold in position, slide the shim into the channel on the inside of the door and scribe a line with a pencil. Then cut the stir stick into enough pieces of that width to span the width of the door. Glue them in place with wood glue, hot glue, etc. and screw the threshold in position after following the manufacturer's install procedure which should be something like:
Slide the threshold into place on the bottom of the door; Measure the width and mark for the width of the opening; use a hacksaw or metal snips or other tool to cut at the mark; slide threshold onto door bottom and position it so that it is touching the floor all the way across; begin with the center screw and install screws from the center hole to the edge holes keeping the screws centered in the screw slots and the threshold in contact with the floor as you go; tighten screws keeping the threshold in contact with the floor to seal the gap.
Another option in the same style from a different manufacturer:
U-shaped threshold with rubber sweep
Another option if your door is less than 1-3/4" thick is this two-piece unit that fits 1-3/4" to 2-1/8" standard thickness doors but can be cut down to fit a thinner door without requiring you to shim the thickness:
Two-piece threshold
If you don't use the door much you can just put strips of thin felt along the edge of the door all the way around to close any air gap along all the edges and fill the bottom gap with felt pad (excellent at blocking air leaks).
While writing this I see that you may already have a solution. I hope that it works for you but will leave this post as an option for you to consider. Good luck and warmest regards.
Wood or metal door? If metal they make magnetic weatherstripping that will latch onto the door. Makes a great air seal.
http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-01636-Weather-strip/dp/B0007UTL4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416605978&sr=8-1&keywords=magnetic+weather+stripping
Thank you for all of your advice. I am considering this instead: http://www.amazon.com/Thermwell-Univdr-Bottom-Udb36br-Sweep/dp/B000BD5DVC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1PWYGKPL505PG&colid=2NKR8K7LARXUU
Do you think it'll work just as well or better? From what I can tell, there just isn't a threshold, which is making the sweep useless. Photo of door ajar: http://i.imgur.com/6vJut.jpg
To be honest with you, that piece of wood and awful caulk job is just laughable. When the door is shut, it's that piece of wood and the door the gaps exist between. I'm wondering if the wood weren't there if the gray portion of the patio would have served as a threshold itself?
I plan to use this on my ceiling. Gonna use a layer of reflectix as a vapor barrier and loosely tack one of these tapestries up. You could probably use thin bits of molding or trim to hold it up with some class.
I know your pain. It feels so shitty and helpless when you make 10 cuts and can't figure out what's going wrong. Like others have suggested; planks make a good alternative too. Much easier to fit around windows. Also very classy and potentially aromatic .
Good luck dude!
It looks like you're doing your best, I wouldn't beat yourself up about it. Some rats are naturally more bold and inquisitive than others, and curiosity can't be stamped out easily. My rats get to free-roam around an hour a day, so I've had to develop a pretty impregnable security system around them, through trial and error. If you're worried about her getting lost or running where she's not supposed to, here's a few ideas that helped me:
*One of the biggest problems with escaping rats is that they can crawl under any unsealed door door threshold can be found at most hardware stores for dirt cheap. This will keep rats from escaping under doors. There are plastic and foam ones available, and you can probably make your own out of anything that can reliably fill that door gap space and resist chewing.
I bought a door sweep that attaches under your door and fills in the gap under the door. Depending on the size, you could get away with not screwing it in and letting it just rest under the door. It helps block a lot of the noise.
https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-6528-U-Shaped/dp/B000CRKE70/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1467838107&sr=8-8&keywords=door+gap
Why replace it?
You can get something cheap like THIS to stop water and drafts.
You really shouldn't replace it if you don't own the house, especially if he is an irrational a-hole attorney.
Your door should have a frame with some sort of channel to attach weather stripping. When you look at this product, the side with the fins gets pushed into that channel (kerf). I would use a magnetic weather stripping as it would hold tight to the steel door. M-D Building Products 1610 Steel Door Magnetic Weatherstrip, 36-by-81 Inches, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007UN5P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w1dTDbMHCSY19
Sort of, yes. This is the sort of thing I was talking about. https://smile.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-13524-Adjustable/dp/B000CRIJPE/ That goes on the bottom of the door jamb. I estimate it would take me about 5-10 minutes to remove the old one and get this new one cut and installed. The one you linked to would go on the sides and top. I do need to do those too, though.
That's rough. It's hard to make a good assessment without seeing what the torn "seams" condition is, but pretty much, it'll never look right again. The best fix that can be done is this:
Pull up all the screwed up padding, cut a clean line into padding that hasn't been destroyed and remove all the bits and pieces. Acquire new padding that as well as possible matches the thickness and sponginess of the old stuff (there are different grades). Perhaps a local flooring company might sell you some leftover from a big job, or just enough off of a roll.
Then will be trying to lay the carpet back down. You will need some seam tape preferably with the roller listed as "frequently purchased together" to seam the torn carpet.
The picture is too blurry for me to be able to tell what's going on at the transition where the carpet meets the kitchen. Looks kinda like a carpet gripper, and whatever it is, it will either have to be reused or replaced with some other sort of transition.
In the end, it's probably still gonna look like shit. If the carpet was literally torn, it messes up the back, and the seam tape really won't make it look like one piece again. The only way to really do it right would be to replace to whole carpet.