(Part 2) Top products from r/AR10

TL;DR: Rifle is fine.

When I originally decided I wanted an AR-10 I couldn't decide if I wanted to build or buy. I also wanted to stay on a budget, as close to $1000 as possible. After I started doing more reasearch I quickly realized two things; first and foremost I would not be happy with an off the shelf sub $1000 rifle and second, I was going to have to spend more than $1000.

Regarding an off the shelf rifle, I had a few thoughts. I wanted a free float handguard, which would add at least $200 to the cost of the off the shelf gun. Second I hated the cheap adjustable stocks that come on them. A new stock would add another $150 or more to the cost of the rifle. So at that point I'm getting into $1300 to $1500 territory. That was before optics.

I guess it was time to build. I started digging around and here's the list of parts and sources I ended up with.

• Aero Precision Mad Dragon Builder Set - $599
  
• Aero Precision 18" barrel (rifle length gas) - $210
  
• [Aero Precision M5 Standard LPK] (http://www.schuylerarmsco.com/product.aero-precision-m5-308-lower-parts-kit-993) - $89
  
• [Aero Precision Rifle Buffer Kit] (http://www.schuylerarmsco.com/product.m5-308-rifle-buffer-kit-no-stock-8-993) - $58
  
• Radical Firearms adjustable low-pro gas block - $39.59
  
• Aero Precision Birdcage Flash Hider - $10
  
• Aero Precision .308 crush washer
  
• Radical Firearms Rifle Length gas tube - $9.49
  
• AIM Surplus NiB BCG - $179.99
  
• Luth-AR MBA-1 Stock $139.99
  
• Strike Industries Extended Latch Charging Handle - $45.99
  
• Primary Arms 1-6 Scope $289.99
  
• Primary Arms Deluxe scope mount - $59.99
  
• [Magpul Gen 2 MBUS Rear FDE] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TBO3A4/) - $41.75
  
• [Magpul Gen 2 MBUS Front FDE] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TBMUMM/) - $31.45
  
  Total cost - $1804.23
  
  I had taken a few things into consideration with the parts list.
  
  
• Aero Precision and Magpul parts have been awesome for my AR-15 so go with what you know.
  
  
• The Magpul PRS stock is just too expensive and the Luth-AR stock checks all the boxes for half the price.
  
  
• I had a timeline, so no time to wait for the best deals. I'm taking this rifle hunting next month.
  
  
• Try for the fastest, least expensive shipping. I used Amazon for my MBUS and stock. With Prime I got them next day. Yes my MBUS are legit, not the airsoft models. I took a chance, I won.
  
  Thoughts on the build itself:
  
  Everything went together beautifully. I had no problems with parts fitting (or rather not fitting). Nothing is loose, nothing rattles, and there are no unsightly gaps anywhere. I can't complain one bit. One minor compaint, the charging handle rubs on the uppre receiver so I have some wear that I'm not happy about but it's in a spot that doesn't really matter. It just really irks me that the MAD Dragon finish isn't more durable in that regard. I shouldn't have to tolerate the premature wear.
  
  Function testing went pretty well. I took it out to the range before my scope came in and zeroed the irons to 50 yards. I don't shoot much .308 (read any .308) so I need to go back out and work on my groups a bit and zero my scope to 100 yards. One thing I noticed is the AR-10 buffer spring is ridiculously stiff and took about 40 rounds to break in and get the rifle cycling right. Now it's right as rain.
  
  One final thought. The rifle is heavy. Without the scope it weighs 11 lbs. I haven't weighed it with the scope yet but most of the weight is in the upper, and I suspect it's all in the barrel. The barrel is one place I tried to save money and went with what amounts to an HBAR. Doing it all over again I probably would have spent more and got a lighter barrel with fluting.
  
  Overall though I'm really happy with the rifle and it should serve me well.
  
  If anyone has any questions or feedback I'm happy to entertain it.

Here's my completed LR 308 build. Parts list:

• Aero Precision M5E1 builder's kit - $307.00
  
• Aero Precision M5 lower parts kit - $65.25
  
• Aero Precision rifle buffer kit - $42.25
  
• Magpul PRS - $222.70
  
• Criterion Bull Contour 24" Stainless Steel barrel, match grade .308 - $263.96
  
• Spinta 308 SPV2 bolt carrier - $109.99
  
• Aero Precision .308 Ambidextrous Charging Handle - $71.99
  
• Wojtek Weaponry .936 Adjustable Gas Block + rifle length gas tube – $73.15
  
• Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50mm FFP MRAD - $359.10
  
• Magpul Rifle Bipod, M-LOK, Black - $104.11
  
• Aero Precision Ultralight 30mm Scope Mount - $73.12
  
• Vortex Optics Riflescope Bubble Level 30-mm - $ 33.68
  
• Vortex Optics Defender Flip Caps - $41.68
  
• Magpul PMAG gen 3 X10 - $189.50
  
• 1840 rnds of South Korean milsurp 7.62 x 51mm NATO ammo + 4 M2A1 ammo boxes - $900.64
  
• Magpul AR Armorer’s Wrench - $80-ish Coulda gotten this one cheaper but it was an impulse by at Sportsman’s Wearhouse.
  
  Grand total - w/o ammo: $2037.48
  
  I took it to the range today, a really nice one I found about 40 minutes north of here. I couldn't spend too much time adjusting the gas block, as that's considered a repair and they didn't want it happening on the line. I did adjust it a total of about three turns out, but it's still under-gassed. I'll have to keep going.
  
  I put 40 rounds through it on the 100 yard range and by the time I was wrapping up the second magazine I was pulling approximately 1 MOA groups of three, I wasn't using a very scientific approach, I was just trying to get it close while I started breaking it in. So I was just picking specific spots on the target and popping three rounds at them. I feel like it's a really good start for accuracy.
  
  Other than the under-gassing, I'm also getting really bad nicks in the extractor lip on my cases. They are pretty consistent, so I'm wondering if I might need to run an emery cloth over the extractor tooth to break in the edges. I wasn't sure so I thought I'd get your opinions.
  
  Anyway, it turned a few heads on the range, especially amongst the AR-15 crowd. My sons, who were with me, really liked the big boom and the fireball that came with it. The shock of firing was impressive, it really let you know it wasn't just a .223. It was very visceral, you could feel it in the depths of your chest. I liked it. I think I'll go out next weekend, too.

Steel will beat up your barrel and extractor more than brass. As many have mentioned, the cost differential more than make up for the extra wear and tear. The only real issue with steel anything IMO is do you plan to shoot at places where it's prohibited? If so, buying cases of steel isn't the best idea. Most ranges that magnet test will nope you out of there even if it's only the case that reacts.

75% of my .223 and .308 target ammo is steel, easily. Also gives be a great excuse to pick up EASY work hours on the range. I bought a 20.00 rolling bar magnet and collect steel case for 20 min each trip.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COYMDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had terrible luck boresighting too until I just sucked it up and dropped major coin on a quality laser boresighter

$100 isn't cheap, but it's been a great tool considering I was wasting ammo like crazy because for some reason, I sucked getting on paper at the range.

I have a 22lr with a 28" barrel and that thing is impossible to bore sight...I see nothing when looking through it, perhaps the combination of long barrel and tight bore. This was a big help for me.

I like this because it also helps you level your reticle, but I find hanging a string with a weight and lining it up that way is just as easy.

Edit: a word

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-20060-Carbon-Machine/dp/B00062BKU6/

I'm almost certain this is the correct size but verify it. Might be best to just retap it.

I got a tekton one for about $40 on Amazon, it doesn't have to be high dollar as the torque range is huge. I built my dad's without one and just went to the next gas tube spot past "tight" never had any issues and that thing shoots. That method wouldn't work so well for the aero Handguards that have 4 spots for the gas tube and a set of shims though so I got one for a friend's build.

TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb./13.6-203.5 Nm)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LNTWAbP1FXQPT

>I second this. Looks nice, and it's made in china so my wallet will probably like it.

Caldwell rest. This is apparently what the new version of it is ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Y8SBW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

I would go with something designed for the AR platform that gets the scope out a bit farther so you can charge the rifle easily.

Like so

These work. I have used them in 3 M4E1 builds and one M5 build. And like the other guy posted the place for the set screw is not the same as an ar15. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O72M4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use: https://amzn.com/B007ZFROI4 if you want a mat with your bag https://amzn.com/B000LF4XA2

Testors Enamel Paint, Gloss Red, 1/4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035LHENW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1ZBNAbFDC139K

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-085010-Lock-N-Load-Classic-Reloading/dp/B007LV2LO4/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=hornady+reloading+equipment&qid=1569348515&s=gateway&sprefix=hornady&sr=8-5

It's not. It's a Burris mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNSJC6K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've done it on my first three builds myself and it's extremely simple. Using a gas block jig from SLR + 5/32 drill bit from amazon it only took a few minutes for each barrel.

Here is a video showing the whole process using the SLR jig.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41EiJvu6SAM

In short get the right size jig for your barrel, find out the distance between your set screws (.400 or .450 you can eyeball this by putting it next to your gas block screw holes), slide it over the barrel and put the set screw into the gas port, put the drill guide screw into the bottom and drill a small dimple (just enough for the set screw head to sit in), repeat on the other hole if you want two dimples.

It's very easy but that being said it cost around $35 for a jig and bit. I had to do three barrels so it saved me some money over the local gunsmiths who want $25 for each barrel.

Jigs are here for $30 a piece.

http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=57_129

Here is the bit I used for just over $2 if bought as an add-on item or $5 by itself.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AESUDU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

g96 synthetic gun oil and g96 gun treatment for all gun things.

Reload.


Seriously.


I'm procrastinating so I'll just do the math for you right now:


As of April 16, 2019, a Lee Anniversary single stage reloading kit is $130.71

A set of Lee .308 dies is ~$45.

Let's say you add a few more reloading starter items and you bring your equipment cost to $300 USD. This is on the higher end of what you'd need to start, but who knows.


To load .308 you need brass, powder, primer, and a projectile.

Powder: Ramshot Tac. $160/8 lbs. (These are ballpark prices but I'm searching them on ammoseek.com right now which is a search aggregator).

Primer: CCI #200 Large Rifle Primer. $30/1000.

Brass: Mixed once-fired brass. $13/100.

Projectile: Hornady 168 HPBT. $0.24 per projectile


Let's assume 45 grains of powder per charge (note: Fuck no this is high. Don't use this. It's an overestimate).

That brings your total cost per round to: $0.53 per round. And that's assuming you don't use the brass multiple times. If you reload the brass 3x, that brings the total cost per round to $0.44 per round.

At $0.56 of savings per round compared to $1/round match ammo, you'll break even at about 540 rounds. While that may seem a lot, that's <6 months of weekly range trips of 25 rounds. And let's not lie. You'll probably shoot more than that.