(Part 2) Top products from r/AnetA8

As far as quality gains you'll experience from changing over to a Bowden/E3d v6 is that you're lightening the overall mass of the Hotend carriage.

If you stop and think, the gantry is carrying the load of the stock Hotend as well as the weight of the stepper motor and the enertia it's contending with in those back and forth movements which can cause defects in your print if your frame isn't solid.
Is not a design flaw, but just an effect of the design.
Like I mentioned earlier you're limiting yourself with exotic filaments with a Bowden, but you're shedding weight to reduce vibration and gaining the opportunity for more speed without having to reinforce the frame a great deal.
But look at extruders like the Titan. These are high performance direct drive extruders that are lighter than stock, but still heavier than a Bowden but you keep the benefits of printing any filament you like.
As well as you don't have the bad characteristics of A Bowden. The Teflon tube that will run from the extruder to the Hotend on a Bowden system, that guides the filament will have a bit of 'give' in it when the extruder is pushing and pulling the filament.

Here is a crude way of describing it...
Let's say for the sake of simple math, that it takes 1 pound of pressure in your stock, direct drive extruder to properly push the exact amount of required filament required for laying a line of plastic onto the heat bed. Now realistically that pressure changes constantly but let's just say you need a consistent 1lb of pressure all the time. It only has to travel a couple of mm's before it's in the Hotend.
In a Bowden system, the extruder pushes the filament through the long Teflon tube and the tube will give way to that pressure. So though your extruder is pushing at 1lb, by the time it reaches the Hotend its only seeing 0.95 lbs because of the tube absorbing some of the pressure. You can compensate with firmware to tell the extruder to actually push 1.05lbs so that when it reaches the Hotend, it's getting the 1lb that it needs. But it's never really 100% accurate. And if your firmware isn't set perfectly you'll see it in the print, like uneven layers and such. Not a very elegant explanation but I'm typing from my phone.

PETG is stronger and much more heat resistant than PLA. PLA is good for whatnots and things you'll sit on your desk that don't need to be structurally sound. PETG is used for things like printing a hook to hang a rolled up extension cord out in your non climate controlled garage and it not break under the weight over time.
PLA is super easy to print and has a broad window of settings to get a nice print. PETG is not as forgiving in the settings department and you have a narrow margin for error. But once you get it dialed in, it prints like PLA. I mentioned polycarbonate earlier. It's even stronger and more heat resistant and you could print chain links with it and hang your front porch swing on it. But it's damn unforgiving and I struggle with it to this day.

Here is the cleaning filament I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q8bkDbV3KFZDT

I only use it when going from one type of filament to another. Like from PLA to PETG. Just changing colors of the same type of filament you wouldn't need it. It's the temperature differences between the 2 that cause jams. PLA prints around 190C. PETG is around 240C. That reminds me of another benefit of the E3d v6. It's all metal and can handle the hotter temperatures of filaments like PETG. You have a Teflon liner in the throat of your stock extruder. I think it's only good up to about 210C.

I haven't really shopped for SLA printers. Consumer SLA printers are still in their infancy. But what I have stumbled across are very small. Like only 6 inch by 6 inch build volumes for $200-$300. And you're limited to the resins that are available. I think only PLA type plastics are available right now. Nothing you could print anything functional with.

I absolutely must recommend a PEI sheet for printing ABS. It's the best printing surface I've used for being able to print ABS without having issues with the print tending to pull off the surface. I was using glass which is great for PLA, but even with hairspray, I was having issues with small areas of ABS pulling up somewhat regularly. Because it's a stiff sheet, it's easier to apply than tape without worrying about air bubbles. I still recommend having a boro glass plate as it's good for ensuring your bed is perfectly flat. Links below.

PEI Sheet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVQJ7QK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_GC2lDb0FXF07W
Borosilicate Glass: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFOI2VS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_vD2lDb92XDS8T

Also, just FYI, if you plan on printing any part upgrades for your printer, especially if you plan on using cable chains, keep in mind that ABS prints pretty much require the use of an enclosure to keep the temperature stable and warm. PLA has a tendency of deforming when even only slightly warm and I had a number of issues when I first started using a cabinet as a result. You'll want to print your part upgrades in ABS so as to maintain rigidity in a warm enclosure. You can always start with PLA and later upgrade the parts to ABS, but keep this in mind if/when you move to filaments that require a warmer print environment.

And above all, upgrade your firmware to ensure you have some minimum safety features. I nearly had a fire early on with mine when my hotend thermal probe was accidentally pulled out during a print causing it to have a thermal runaway.

This is excellent information, thank you. It's been a bit overwhelming looking at all the mods out there which are a "definitely do this before you print anything or you'll burn your house down" and "this helps but can probably wait for now".

I've already soldered the wires to the heated bed and started installing a mosfet for the bed as well. (Sounds like one isn't really needed for the hot end?)


Do I need something like the 500w ATX PSU, or can I get away with something like this (recommended by the Punished Props Anet safety upgrade page)

Can you tell me more about that fix for the heater block with kapton tape? I saw it recommended that I switch to one of these? (recommended by the letsprint3d.net Anet safety mods page)

http://imgur.com/a/iSODG

as you can see, my setup is far from completed, I have a 4 switch relay, to control led strip lighting and fans, planning on hooking up printer power to it as well.

Also have a DHT11 thermometer, hooked up to monitor enclosure temp.

Octoprint is straight forward to install, went well, and enclosure plugin very easy, I really like it.

I bought these anti vibration pads from Amazon.
Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9dFNAbVYKVG1H

I put them under each clever if the base. THEY ARE AMAZING. I can sometimes not even tell it's printing. I often find myself now checking to see if it's still for some reason. Before you could hear the vibrations through the walls in other rooms.

For the $10 they cost I would recommend them to everyone.

The original power supply is junk. Here's what I replaced mine with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0109IMRPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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When I hit "preheat PLA", you don't even hear the fan change speeds. Works good!

On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:

• Inductive sensor for bed leveling
  
• Dual Mosfets
  
• Reinforced Belts
  
• Buildtak clone (optional)
  
• X and Y cable chains (optional)
  
• Y axis belt tensioner (optional)
  
• OctoPi running on a Raspberry Pi 3 B (optional)
  
• Semi-circular fan attachment
  
• Top Mounted Spool Holder (optional, not for heavy spools!)
  
  I hope this helps!
  

This is what i have on my now. Its actually a circuit breaker. But i think i have the 20a version. Ill have to check when i get home. Just replace it with whatever size fuse you have. Or whatever the wire is rated for. Pretty sure 20a

https://www.amazon.com/WINOMO-Circuit-Breaker-Stereo-Audio-Protection/dp/B075ZR8YTB/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=1ZE992XMR2KCZ&keywords=10a+inline+fuse&qid=1554149029&s=gateway&sprefix=10a+inline&sr=8-5

An easier way to install an ATX PSU w/out voiding warranty would be to purchase a Benchtop Power Board, 16 gauge wire, and a crimp connector kit.

To my understanding, you will also need a dummy load on the 12v rail in order for your ATX PSU to properly supply power, a Benchtop Power Board/ Breakout Board will do that for you without the need of cutting up wires :).

Here's one for example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX8KIZX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's also files to mount virtually any ATX to your Anet A8: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2256502
Also to mount Breakout board if you choose to do so: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1996830

I wonder how well Liquid Green would work for smoothing that out.

https://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Citadel-Liquid-Green/dp/B01BPHPS9E

I've been meaning to pick some up, but haven't gotten around to it.

Spiral cable wrap. You can find it all over the place. Home Depot, MicroCenter, and Amazon for example. Out of curiosity I looked it up on Amazon and it's not too expensive. I opted for 1/4in(6mm) personally. You can measure your bundle to see what all you need. I'd offer, but I have a lot of aftermarket stuff so my diameter will be off from stock.

With the power off, disconnect the heat bed's power cables from the logic board. Take a multimeter and measure resistance across the positive and negative power wires, it should measure 1.2 ohms.

If those are fine, measure the resistance across the thermistor (the temp cable). It should measure around 100k ohms.

If any of the measurements show open then move the measurement up the bed itself to see if it's the cable or the bed that's broken.

If you don't have a multimeter, order one from Amazon or go to your local auto parts store and buy one. It doesn't have to be fancy, this one is fine.

i dont see it on this product but normally they are getting sold with 3m adhesive so they stick themselve. What do you mean with the green and blue wire? If you mean the thermistor, some are sold with it pre installed and some not, not on this heater tho. You could search for other silicone heaters that might have that included

This one should also work its 214mmx214mm:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00TCL9OR8/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541060407&sr=1&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=c8abbaf3-3a43-4bf9-a503-76de61f2da73&pd_rd_wg=TCbJe&pf_rd_r=QC5TPPVCM8Y83FZ16J0W&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B00TCL9OR8&pd_rd_w=7UsWc&pf_rd_i=silicon+heater&pd_rd_r=828c399d-fcc3-4975-81b9-bb16e704317d&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

Is this the board you have? Take a close look at the photos. If it is, there are alternate boards you can try in Marlin's config.h

Took mine off months ago. Not really needed. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

this has a length of wire with an attached fuse holder, so you can replace the bad one completely, and pick the size fuse you need. You may just need to extend one wire enough to make the run between ps and main board. This is what I was thinking of, if that helps. Any 14 ga wire should work. I used 14 ga speaker wire on my hotbed, for example.

It’s a two pack off amazon. Not too impressed since one of them was DOA. Need to reach out to customer service about a replacement.

Cool-See 2pcs Cooling Blower Fan... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0757V1JT9

I enabled z hopping on this print because I knew it would be all over the place and possibly as a preventative. For filament, I use the following filament:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K59SDF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It seems fine for every print so far and a few days ago I took apart the extruded and it seemed fine. The tip has undergone a lot of damage from miscalculations in calibration (it has been pressed down on the plate a LOT from poor z calibration). I’m not sure that the damaged tip would affect the x skipping though; my previous post somebody recommended tooth skipping but it is tensioned and I couldn’t imagine it skipping if it’s tensioned