(Part 2) Top products from r/Arcade1Up

Thanks for all that,

1

Checked the USB inputs and re-plugged them in like your guide.

https://imgur.com/a/RdPkZ6d

One on the left with the little bit of twisty tie is Player 1

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2

Not sure if its relevant- have it all hooked up like this

https://imgur.com/a/HMYKMcQ

I bought this one from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WAY9848/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's a main USB port at the end I have it plugged into- but also a 5 pin port marked USB

I assume its just the plug on the end- especially because its detecting the buttons when I config them.

The issue is when I load up a game, all buttons become 100% un-responsive.

From memory- when I hooked it all up yesterday- I actually had it working but only through player 2's select button- but since trying to map properly its all just gone downhill. Nothing works.

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3

Updated video where it shows me map buttons from scratch, and then load up SFII with nothing happening.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghkvhs-qjSs&feature=youtu.be

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Thanks for your time trying to help!

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I bought this kit.
Arcade Buttons EG STARTS 1 Player... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2X88QP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Joystick works great for classic games that don't requires complex moves like a fighting game. It is very clicky, but maybe that's normal. When I mod my MK cab I might buy a true Sanwa joystick.

Note: the buttons have a bit different feel. They are not clicky since the switch is built in. A bit like keys on a keyboard. They work fine.

I purchased this 4-pin connectors from Amazon to connect to the speaker output on the video board:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8JKLGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They fit perfectly so I just connected them to some Dupont jumper wires (using some butt crimp connectors) and then plugged the male jumper wires into the connectors on the original speakers. I could have soldered everything, but I wanted something that would be easy to remove.

For the first cab I worked on, I tried drilling holes for the sound similar to what A1UP did on the control deck speaker, but I kind of screwed up the hole placement because some of the "sound holes" are right next the "mounting holes", but it's in a pretty non-visible location you don't really see it. For a second cabinet I had speakers and speaker grills, so I cut out circular holes the full size of the speaker for each speaker and they look much better.

I also added a dual-port USB port so I could plug in a XBOX controller or keyboard fob without having to reach around the back to the raspi. It has already proven very handy for testing/configuration.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY1WDIU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the video control board, I still don't have a good solution for where to place it. If the cable was longer, I'd try to mount it on the same panel as the speakers. Right now, I have it double-stick taped to the screen bezel just above the control deck, so it is accessible but doesn't look great. If I had a 3D printer it would be a great project to build a small case to cover the board and mount it, but I'm not sure I want to buy one of those at the moment...though it is the most tempted I've been to actually buy a 3D printer.

Super, thank you also for confirming the speaker is a 8 ohm 3 watt.

For an L-Pad I am looking at this: https://www.ebay.com/p/Eminence-Overspx-lpad-L-pad-Assembly-Kit/1500346869

Basically I like the fact it is more flush mount. Now to find some really nice 4 ohm speakers... Maybe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Right now I just have a Logitech G29, but may upgrade in the future. The cockpit is Openwheeler

I absolutely love having the cockpit where I can just sit down and play and not worry about setting stuff up every time

Just purchased and used both of these for SF 1Up mod with M170ETN01.1 monitor. . Joystick and encoders worked great with PI or Windows. Easy swap out of the control panel.

Avsiri 2 Player LED Arcade DIY Parts 2X USB Encoder + 2X Ellipse Oval Style Joystick + 20x LED Arcade Buttons for PC MAME Raspberry Pi Windows (Mixed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5WSL24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nyzxL5f4guFdv

VSDISPLAY HDMI Audio LCD Controller Board Fit to Arcade DIY Parts 17" M170ETN01.1 WYD170SKD 01 LCD Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MRJG3HT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cRmsDIBO7hBme

I appreciate the prompt answer my friend!

Do you think I could fit these satellite speakers behind the marquee and against the H-Panel? (ideally without hacking them too much or removing the enclosure):
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Multimedia-Speakers-Mobile-Devices/dp/B00KK9481I

It’s this monitor mounted as a marquee- VSDISPLAY 14.9" 14.9 inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGBL568?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I’m running bigbox on a pc, whatever game I select it shows that game marquee. It used to be super expensive to do but the smaller size needed for the arcade1up makes it cheaper so I thought why not. I had to tweak some of the xml file in the theme folder so that the marquee displayed right but I’m happy with it now.

Honestly I think you'd be better off getting one of the steering wheel and pedal units, more specifically one with steering wheel with paddles (could be used as high/low for older games) clutch, brake, gas pedals (would work for all games), and then one with the gear shifter (would work for more modern/complex driving games). The idea of making your own is awesome, but if you're going to go out of your way to make a racing cabinet you might as well make it for as many games as possible. Hell if you really wanted to get crazy you could even mount something like this to the front of your cab and turn it into a true cockpit racer.....and you could always switch it over to a flight, etc. cab by swapping out the controls as well. https://www.amazon.com/Openwheeler-Logitech-Thrustmaster-controllers-Xbox-One/dp/B01CGVG0N6?th=1

VSDISPLAY HDMI VGA DVI Audio LCD Controller Board M.NT68676 Fit for 17" 4:3 1280x960 DV170YGM-N10, as it to DIY The Arcade1UP Marvel Super Heroes which Have DV170YGM-N10 LCD to Work with Raspberry Pi https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVPTRSD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e0XZDb69VV0NK

Same board and resolution but with a long cable and an extra inverter board (this isn't required) for only a few extra bucks.

the on/off with cana kit is just a power off, I made a simple button that connects to pi GPIO 5 and 6 ..

https://howchoo.com/g/mwnlytk3zmm/how-to-add-a-power-button-to-your-raspberry-pi

There was a better article I found that I was able to make it both a power down as well as a wake button. Two wires, one button. Ill take a picture of the top of my cab, its not pretty, but it is neat, organized and functional

If you were asking about the spearkers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ES8X9M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Led Strip Lights 6.56ft for 40-60in TV, PANGTON VILLA USB LED TV Backlight Kit with Remote - 16 Color Changing 5050 LEDs Bias Lighting for HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IuBWDbR9TX0FH


These from amazon! I put them behind each one of them and just hit the strobe setting and it looks awesome. Added more flare

I will do tutorial on hyperspin..here’s a link for the marquee 👍😎😉👊 VSDISPLAY 14.9" 14.9 inch 1280X390 LCD Screen LTA149B780F with HDMI DVI VGA Audio LCD Controller Board M.NT68676, fit for Arcade Machines/DIY displays/Car Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGBL568/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bhR2DbMECQTG2

Didn't change the monitor, used this LCD board, wired built in speaker to kinter amp flipped power switch on control panel and wired to PI header to turn on. Waiting on skin from Arcade Graphix. Went with sanwa joysticks and Happ buttons fromDIY RetroArcade. Plays nice. I'll post pics when I get home

I created a mounting plate for dual speakers and where people are putting buttons you could make speaker holes

https://imgur.com/gallery/I3xQBgU

Got these upgraded speakers they even can mount in the stock location if you just want better quality

BOSS Audio BRS40 50 Watt, 4 Inch,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I use Loctite blue threadlocker. It will hold it in place, but will still allow you to remove the bat when you actually want to remove it.

Any auto parts store has it or here is the amazon link.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS

Sure thing! 2 Ports Dual USB 3.0 Male to USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY1WDIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Should I just get a full Happ kit so it comes with everything included? If I buy everything separately, not sure if I will know how to assemble, whether I have all of the parts (gates, metal plates, wires, etc.)

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Edit: Honestly, can't find anything really worth getting.. considering this but not sure if it's a step-up from the stock stuff included: https://www.amazon.com/Easyget-Encoder-Joystick-Illuminated-Buttons/dp/B00WAY9848/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1540842142&sr=8-12&keywords=happ+buttons%20would%20something%20like%20this%20work%20and%20be%20a%20significant%20step%20up%20in%20quality%20from%20the%20stock%20buttons

This stuff will work and is removable (with a little effort) if you need to remove the joystick in the future. I use it to secure the nuts to the bolts on my car's brakes.

Loctite  Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_i6T0Bb9RE5YJ3

Arcade Buttons EG STARTS 1 Player DIY Kit Joystick 5V LED Arcade Button for Arcade Stick PC Games Mame Raspberry pi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2X88QP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.WPYDbH6Q07CP

I think I'm going to go with these and do a 1 player (2 player alternating) setup.

The stock A1Up adapter supplies more current than needed so you could probably use a splitter to power them. There may be parts that exist that end in wires but probably easiest to cut off the end of a splitter.

Only an example, not sure if right size: PHC DC-3Y 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC Barrel Plug Splitter, 1 Female Jack to 2 Male Plugs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AZZ4ES/

You'd want the raspberry pi 3 B+.

Here's my list of what I currently own already:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TUSXEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DCPT1N7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7GF337/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought all of the above when I was going to do a RetroPie build. Do you think that would suffice along with the control kit?

Controller HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC7BMHY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Kinter MA170 12V 2 Channel Mini... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

EG STARTS 2x Arcade DIY Kit Parts... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7R7YW3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Easyget 4 Pcs/Lot 5V LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5Y8E2Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

TecUnite LED Maple Garland LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7J1ANA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pyle Marine Speakers - 4 Inch 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JF26LF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Car Interior Lights, CJRSLRB APP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DZQRZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

LDKCOK USB 3.0 Mount Cable –USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DPQFZB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Do you know How do the Bose speakers compare to this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000230LBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_hd90BbKTE7CAD

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Multimedia-Speakers-Mobile-Devices/dp/B00KK9481I?ref_=mw_olp_product_details

Planning on getting this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JH3S54/ with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DFVQFW/

https://www.amazon.com/T-R-U-CVT-536-Vinyl-Pinstriping-Dance/dp/B01KW25FWI/ref=pd_rhf_sc_p_img_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JWY0WCY9ZNRN31MTE52N This is the exact stuff I used

A common “mod” for these is to use vinyl/pinstripe tape for the existing molding.

Amazon Link

Arcade Trackball Mouse,Illuminated 4.5cm Round LED Trackball Mouse PS/2 PCB Connector For Arcade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075JH3S54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dTpvCb71QCHEA

I'm using this one for my pi build with a ps2 to usb adapter

I used this: Led Strip Lights 6.56ft for 40-60in TV, PANGTON VILLA USB LED TV Backlight Kit with Remote - 16 Color Changing 5050 LEDs Bias Lighting for HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jVw1DbCJZ87RM

I have a concern about the HDMI monitor converter they are offering. There are more than one converter board out there, and they are designed to match different monitors. Arcade1Up cabinets do not all have the same display. Very similar, but there are a few different ones. As I understand it, if you get the wrong hdmi converter board, it can damage the display. Unless they know something I don’t, I don’t understand how they can sell just one converter for all Arcade1up models.

The “right” thing to do is look at the back of your display and find the model number. It’s a pretty big sticker. My centipede cabinet has M170ETN01 1. Then, search Amazon for “hdmi controller <model number>. That’s how I found this. Notice how it has the display model number in the product description:
https://www.amazon.com/VSDISPLAY-Controller-M170ETN01-1-WYD170SKD-Monitor/dp/B07MRJG3HT/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=HDMI+controller+M170etn01&qid=1567351373&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I'm replacing the controls with this button/led kit. Qenker 2-Player LED Arcade DIY Kit for USB MAME PC Game DIY & Raspberry Pi Retro Controller DIY Including 2X Arcade Joystick, 20x LED Arcade Buttons, 2X Zero Delay USB Encoder (Blue & Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7GF337/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tVwaCbWG4HRDD ETAPrimes video shows how to connect the LEDs to those USB encoder boards. I "think" I can wire the LEDs of these buttons to those boards. One fear I have is the power draw on the Pi with all these LEDs. Trying to look into completely separate board and power supply from the pi for just the LEDs, with maybe a power switch for the LEDs