(Part 3) Top products from r/BackYardChickens

You seem to have all the basics.

[1] pair the dog and chicks while both are as young as possible.

[2] get a "herding" dog breed.


Forgive me for going into some unwanted tangents on herd training.... "chicken herding" is kind of a small hobby for me.


I have worked with an Australian Cattle Dog. The dog was 10 years old when I started. At this point I can let the dog out when they are free ranging, I can even let the dog into the coop and all she will do is sniff and nip the chickens. Unfortunately, I did not get the dog young enough to train her hunting instinct out. When the birds fly, flutter or cause a commotion - and I don't already have her in "herding mode", my dog goes into "hunting mode"... and the chickens are as good as dead.


One way to pair animals, is to introduce the chicks to a dog while she is giving birth. This is a sure fire way to eliminate the kill instinct and instill a protective nature if the dog accepts the chicks as part of her litter. If it doesn't "take", the mother will kill the chicks. I can not speak to how this works when new chicks are added to your coop, but I have seen it done with one batch first hand - and it is amazing. So all in all, this is not the best way to pair. But if you have the opportunity, it's worth a shot.


As far as herd dog training.... it is a lot of work. Herding Dogs are very loyal but very high maintenance. They require a daily routine, loving discipline, concise vocabulary, regular "training workouts", etc. If you have not done it before, I would warn against accepting every piece of advice from house dog trainers and most dog club enthusiasts. While most of their advice works for house training a dog, herd training is as individual as say, training a hunting dog.


Methods I used: [1] segregating dog and chickens in coop for increasing intervals until the dog doesn't get excited about bird presence. [2] allowing a rooster and dog in the same area. (I'm not going to cry if my dog kills a rooster) [3] training the dog to come when I say come, reverse direction when I say "heit" along with various other [commands] (http://www.herding-dog-training-border-collie-sheepdog-dvd.com/sheepdog-terminology/) Note, the author doesn't use standard vocabulary that people use at competitions. [4] once the dog has a good command of being directed, I keep him/her on a leash and we herd together. [5] Once I feel confident in the dog's ability to herd on a leash, we graduate to unleashed herding. I've also encouraged my dog to chase deer, turkeys, etc off my property when she sees them. And bark from the inside when they are present. This has taken a long time to sink in, but she will now alert me that a deer is in the yard, run it to the property line, and come back for a piece of summer sausage. Summer sausage is a huge incentive for her.


I would proceed by finding a herding breed you like (I love [australian cattle dogs] (https://www.reddit.com/r/blueheelers/)), finding a book particular for herd training, and finding an enthusiast group for your breed. I will note, the reason why I am so much a proponent of specific breeds, is because I've tried herd training a few labs.... and I've tried with one cattle dog. The difference between the four labs and the cattle dog is night and day. Now granted, labs are the ideal chicken killing dog, and cattle dogs are one of the best herding dogs... and I only have experience with two breeds - so I am by no means an expert. Terriers seem like they would be a headache. Or, at least, they don't seem like a good match for me. I would argue that pairing the right breed for you is very important, so if you are a fan of terriers - and they have a history of herding.... go with it. I would definitely get a herding breed, though. Those dogs have been selectively bred over generations based on their ability to overcome their kill instinct.


Other things I've heard... cattle and sheep are the easiest to train with. chickens are the hardest.... so your jumping in the deep end. Granted it sounds like you just want the dog to guard, and not herd... but the skill set is very similar, and I would argue mutually beneficial.


My favorite trainer in the world is Cesar Milan. I love his zen-like, accept the dog for the dog he/she is method, and also the idea of being the "pack leader". His work rehabilitating fighting dogs in L.A. was pretty awesome. Unfortunately, I've found very little of his work on herders. Just one episode of his [show] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qd0UxayRWog) and a few [blog] (https://www.cesarsway.com/about-dogs/breeds/bringing-out-the-breed) posts. There are a lot of books out there. a and [b] (http://www.amazon.com/Stockdog-Savvy-Jeanne-Joy-Hartnagle-Taylor/dp/1577791061/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0A4Z50JV4JYV6HYWHHQD) got good reviews on amazon. I've heard about Holland's book, it's supposed to be one of the most well-read books on herding dogs. I can't speak for it personally.

I think it is a viable plan and it sounds like you'll do just fine. I am probably different from many people on this sub as I don't spend much time with my chickens at all and they do just fine. My chickens are not pets - they exist to provide eggs. I treat them well and they have a good life but I do not go to the extent that some people do to protect, enrich, cool, or heat their flock. I have never had a sickness or problem other than losing a hen to predators every now and then, which is just a fact of life.

Four hens is extremely manageable. We set up a hanging feeder like this one and a hanging water bucket with nipples like this. The food is refilled about once a week with four hens and the water about twice depending on the size of the bucket. We give them kitchen scrap treats several times a week. Otherwise they are pretty self sufficient. They put themselves in and out of the coop each day, they manage their own needs with the resources they have. I feel like a lot of people don't give chickens enough credit. They know what to do. They've been doing it for tens of millions of years. It is actually cool to watch them do instinctually things that they have no way of knowing how to do.

The one thing I would say to you is not to mess around with ex battery hens. I haven't had them and I know nothing about them but it seems like they would require extra work and care and attention. It seems like you don't want to do that so if it were me I would just start with young yens of a breed that are strong layers like Rhode Island Reds - if you have those in what I am guessing is Australia. They will be less work and hassle which is what it seems you want. Good luck!

I personally like Barred Rocks better than any other heritage layer, but I wouldn't say they're exactly flashy. Really, to me, hens aren't that flashy in general. Flash is the rooster's realm of expertise. Might try grabbing a Silkie or a Polish if you want something more exotic, but they aren't the greatest layers in the world. If you're doing an urban flock and you want something docile that lays well, get a production breed (don't know any off the top of my head; anyone want to chime in on good production breeds?). I free range, so I like heritage breeds which are better at fending for themselves and running from predators.

To me, THE definitive resource to look at is The Small Scale Poultry Flock by Harvey Ussery.

A couple of things...

• PVC generally has poor UV resistance, and may become brittle within a few years.
  
  
• The chicken wire isn't preditor proof. I suppose if you get them to go inside the wooden coop part and close them up inside it for the night they should be fine.
  
  
• Why did you decide to use chicken wire on the ground? Was it to prevent the chickens from scratching up the yard?
  
  
• I'm thinking that OSB is going to rot pretty quickly without paint too.
  
  
• Dogs aren't that expensive, just time consuming. Rescue dogs are usually between $100-$250, $50 for a kennel if you go that route, and $30-$50 for a bag of food which lasts quite a while. The great thing about rescues is that they are fixed, wormed, and have all their shots already. I suppose if you had to fence him in that could cost a bit, but an electric invisible fence is around $250.
  
  Now training them not to kill the chickens but protect them is another story...

Yes, they do have the ability to form friendship bonds with other chickens. This book provides some nice detail about the cognitive and emotional lives of chickens.

Both of these have good ideas and plans, well worth $30:

Reinventing the Chicken Coop: 14 Original Designs

Backyard Chickens' Guide to Coops and Tractors

The easiest way i have found to candle eggs (i used to teach ag in the classroom to grade school kids) is to get a mag-light that is pen sized. This is the size I used http://www.amazon.com/MAGLITE-M2A016-Mini-Flashlight-Black/dp/B00002N6SL/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1331078932&sr=8-7.
Around day ten if they are clear pitch them. At day 15/18 if you cant see movement after looking at them for 2-4 minutes pitch them. baby chicks move in the egg just like humans in the womb.

Yeah, I was surprised to find big holes eaten through the bottom of this plastic deck storage box we use to store all of our chicken supplies. I'm toying with covering bottom and sides with hardware cloth but it may be cheaper and more effective to just move to a metal box.

99 Gallon Deck Box
http://www.amazon.com/Suncast-DB9000-Deck-Box-99-gallon/dp/B000FJF8OE/ref=lp_671804011_1_16?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1409784132&sr=1-16

here is the mist head and you will need something like this, if not this to hook up the head to. The rest is just PVC and glue to make it as long as you want and as high up. Mine is 6 heads long because it does broadcast fairly well for how high I have it. Let me know and I can take pictures. Although it isn't much to look at, which is why I went for Amazon links (no banana). My hardware store sells this set up mist system and you know how those old dudes are, took me over to their plumbing department and sent me home with a bag of stuff. The big fog set up is done and complete and you'll have to decide if your time is worth the small amount of cash to just hang the thing and be done with it.

That's a very interesting cage. I've read a book that touches on the matter, but his recommendation seems far too small for my mind. IIRC, a square foot per bird, always caged. What's your setup? I'd have to start very small time, to appease my wife.

I'm really hoping it will work this winter with these two items. It gets really cold where I am at also.
http://www.trojanlivestock.com/Assets/Heaters/Winter-9%20Slides.pdf
http://amzn.com/B0006VAMX8

This book is what I asked for my birthday. Or a chicken shaped thing that can be hung on the coop itself and or a gift card to where they get feed and such.

I use these: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/KAT0/24100/N0650.oap?ck=Search_oil+pan+heater_-1_-1&keyword=oil+pan+heater

Regulated with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-HYDROSET-Electronic-Thermostat-Temp/dp/B0006JLPEA

The oil pan heater gets attached to the bottom of a metal fount with some high temp silicone. With the hydroset thermostat the water stays at a nice even 60 or so degrees even when outside temps fall to -15.

Here's a 150watt version of the same model, which will keep 2 or more gallons thawed even down into single digits.

http://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovators-C-50-Aluminum-Birdbath/dp/B0002DHBDY/
Theres also a 250watt version too if you poke around amazon

If you're going to go the handsaw route get this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CEF5HM/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1458949246&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ryoba

You get two blades in one. One for cross-cuts (perpendicular to the grain) and one for rip cuts (with the grain). It's sharp and makes quick work of short cuts.

If you plan on using something like plywood or osb for sheathing I'd invest in a circular saw. They're a dime a dozen on classifieds for $20-$30.

Get a couple quick clamps too, these will help you clamp wood down to a bench to cut with either type of saw. With a circular saw you can clamp a straight piece of wood on a panel and run the saw along the edge of it to cut in a straight line.

Is that from Elmer?

I don't think it's a snake, I think it's another bird. Snakes don't eat eggs like that. Birds break into it and eat the yolk. Add some bird netting over your coop or whatever area you're using.

Get your hands on Some Grannick's bitter apple spray. Spray on pecked hen, others will leave her alone. We had a hen pecked bloody last winter. I put her in our basement for a while to heal up, but as soon as she went back out, she got pecked bloody again. Can't remember where on the Internet I stumbled upon this spray, but it worked like magic. Sprayed her back and tail feathers every couple of days for about two weeks, and others left her alone.

http://www.amazon.com/Grannicks-Bitter-Apple-Bottle-Ounces/dp/B00028ZMEO