(Part 3) Top products from r/CarAV

> 1998 Chevrolet S10 Blazer Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram

> Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
>
> Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Dark Green
>
> Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
>
> Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
>
> Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Violet/White
>
> Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
>
> Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
>
> Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
>
> Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
>
> Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
>
> Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
>
> Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
>
> Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
>
> From blazer forum [[Formatted for easier viewing]]

So, I believe the 12 volt switched power is usually a Brown Wire for GM. I would ignore the illumination wire.

You can easily tell which wires are the speaker wires, because if you trim your wire bundle cover down a bit further, they usually twist together the speaker wire pairs.

Be careful, because you can short out a wire and pop a fuse pretty easy in this situation.

To test to see if you have a correct pair, grab a GOOD WORKING battery (like a 9 volt or an AA battery) and connect the (+) to one side and the (-) to the other side. If you hear a speaker go "pop" then those wires work for that speaker.

Once you find which wires go to your speakers, then you should have wires left over. You can assume that they are going to be your power/ground/switched/illumination wires. To test the constant power grab a test light, and check to see if it lights up a test light. It should have power even if the vehicle is off.

To test the switched power, check to see if the test light turns on, only when your key is turned forward. Make sure to not mix this up with the illumination wire by see if the wire comes on with your parking lights.

Great tool for the job, usually $20 at most hardware stores: https://www.channellock.com/909-the-crimper-crimping-tool.aspx?

They work great with these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C

or these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Wiwaplex-Connectors-Electrical-Terminals-waterproof/dp/B01FZENM14/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501634099&sr=1-14&keywords=barrel+crimp+connector

Good Luck

As someone with a focus, himself, I can tell you that you'll be perfectly happy with 1 good sub. Albeit mine's newer... Anyway, I have 1 10" Alpine Type-R in a sealed box running off 500w (my 3rd gen type-R is rated for 600w rms) and it fills the cabin VERY easily. Mine's also a hatch, though. I'd go with 1 good 12" in a sealed box.

On to the other stuff. Get a deck with 3 pre outs and get 6.5" speakers and adapters to fit the hole to replace those 6x8's. I'll add full recommendations for a good build, with a modest budget, in a few minutes.

Edit: build
This deck
2 pairs of these
This speaker amp
(Get it from best buy and price match amazon. You'll get the amazon price but still get full best buy AND Alpine support since best buy is an authorized dealer.)
This sub
This Sub Amp
(Do the same thing as the other amp.)
Wiring
(You should also get a fused distribution block and put a 60A fuse for each amp. You'll also need another set of RCA cables for the sub amp.)
Speaker adapters (get 2 pairs)
(Disregard the description, it's a 6x8 to 6.5 adapter)

Could you please include your vehicle's year, make, and model in future posts?

If you want my honest opinion, no speakers you get for $60/pair are going to be better than the Bostons you have now, unless yours are straight up blown and rattling. And since you have the Boston system, there's probably a factory amp which may or may not use DSP. Point being, you already think those speakers sound pretty good. So add a subwoofer, pull the bass setting on the head unit down a click, and you'll be able to crank those speakers a touch more. As for sub, the Fosgate P300 is recommended here a lot and for good reason. Solid performer and it's an easy to install all-in-one solution. Easy to remove the whole thing quickly, should you need to trade the car in or just make room for luggage.

Start with the box. On the description is says...

> Enclosure Volume: 1.69 Cu. Feet/ Mounting Depth: 4-1/2"

I'm 95% sure this means total volume, meaning 0.85ft^3 per side. The Depth is also key.

What this all means is you need a flat sub that plays well in a 0.85ft^3 box. I'd recommend these Pioneer 12" flat subs over the Rockford's based on the performance of the 10" versions of the same Pioneer subs I have and the appearance of the Rockford woofers, but the Pioneers are 4 ohm woofers.

As for the amp you posted, it simply doesn't match the subs. Look for something like the Hifonics Brutus or Zeus, or PPI sub amp for around $150-200. Look for Class D architecture and a remote knob. Look for sub amp that can generate at least 1000 watts rms into 1 ohms.

Rockford is a good brand for sub amps, but not the Punch line. The regular Rockford line is a bit pricey but well regarded. The nice Rockford Class D, 1200 watt @ 1 ohm amp is $220 on Amazon Prime.

If you don't have a Big 3 upgrade & good wiring kit you'll not reap the benefits of all the money spent on amps & subs. A big 3 kit costs maybe $30 to DIY, and a good run of 1/0 power cable & accessories fuses, is less than about $50. Don't short change performance by not doing basic, necessary upgrades.

It sounds like you've now heard about coaxials versus component speakers. And coaxials are generally easier to install (but components are almost always better speakers).

Also, if you swap working factory speakers out for new after market speakers, you likely won't hear much difference. Personally, I think others on here agree, you need an amplifier (and I would highly recommend sound deadening) to make a new set of speakers sound better, louder, cleaner than the OEM ones.

I would recommend focusing on just the fronts. I'd get 6.5 components (use something like these to properly mount a 6.5 in a 6x8 hole) and find a spot for the tweeter, deaden the doors, and wire up a small 2 channel amp. IMO this would sound leaps and bounds better than OEM speakers.

If you want the best of the best I'd say Kollossus, Ensolite and some 1lb/sq. ft. MLV like this or the stuff they sell at SDS.

A good budget setup would be the RAAM products plus cheaper MLV wherever you can find it. Typically the budget stuff will be lighter at ~.75lb/ft and will have a textile backing.

Important to remember is that CLD and foam will cut down panel resonance and rattling that comes from it, but without MLV road noise such as wind/tire noise won't be lessened much. It really depends on how much you are willing to spend and what the goal is. A Lexus is going to have some pretty good deadening from the factory also, so consider that as well.

Check the /r/CarAV side bar for the approved gear link for more suggestions. These are on sale and are definitely a step up from the Fosgate

https://www.amazon.com/Hertz-DSK-165-3-Component-DSK165-3/dp/B008B5JPTS

The Hertz HSK line is even better but the ones I linked look like they're on sale at Amazon.

Even better: https://www.amazon.com/CL-61-Audio-Component-Speakers-System/dp/B00FX9SO74

Or these babies, if properly tuned will blow those Fosgates completely out of the water.

https://www.amazon.com/DLS-RM6-2-Reference-Component-Speaker/dp/B00G4L6V0W

Don't forget to look at Morel. They are pretty much the gold standard of speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Tempo-Morel-6-5-Component-System/dp/B003F2U79O

I'll be the first to agree that Pioneer definitely isn't the ideal choice of brand, but it makes for more possibilities when on a budget. I personally prefer JL XD amps, but they aren't exactly affordable either. If you want to find the best amp in terms of performance for the dollar, I continued searching and found This Rockford Although I don't know if you'd be willing to try a second Rockford at this point.

If you are using a stock head unit you need a Line Output Converter. You will need to wire it up to get signal from one of your speaker outputs. There are videos for how to install them on youtube. I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LP7-2-2-Channel-Output-Converter/dp/B00F0YASQ2/ref=asc_df_B00F0YASQ2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309804813335&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18323869535356931100&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007130&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436281515665&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LP7-2-2-Channel-Output-Converter/dp/B00F0YASQ2/ref=asc_df_B00F0YASQ2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309804813335&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18323869535356931100&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007130&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436281515665&psc=1
I have yet to get it to work, but I think I tapped the wrong wires in the factory amp for sound signal.
Once you hooked up you plug RCAs in it and run them to your amp. There is also a remote turn on wire for your amp included in with the Line Output Converter (LOC), so that's a plus. You run a wire to your amps remote terminal from the blue wire on the LOC. This will allow your amp to turn on once the LOC detects audio signal. Next you need to run the power wire from your install kit there (the red one) from your cars battery to the trunk. The last time I hooked up a system in a GM car was in the early 2000s and back then you needed a special adapter to connect it to the battery since they use the side screw on battery terminals. If your battery has posts on top your set. Lastly you need to ground the black wire from your install kit somewhere in the car. It needs to be a bolt connected to the chassis so it can complete the power circuit. You should be able to find one in the trunk. Sand down the paint by the bolt you choose to attach it to and make sure it is extra secure. I know it's not a diagram, but I tried to explain the best I could. You may be missing some parts like an LOC if you use the stock radio, and a battery adapter if you have the side mount battery terminals and no top posts.

$300 for 4 speakers? Thats a pretty good budget.

I would personally buy these 6.5's and these 6x9's. Now, i have the first set of speakers i linked, and so do a lot of the people on this subreddit. They are pretty nice sounding speakers, and will get as loud as you need. I linked those 6x9's because they are the same model as the first, just different size.


Also, i saved you $50, that you should spend on deadening.

Alpine SWA-12S4 BassLine Series 12" 4-ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CE9682O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WLggvb16ZJVM7


http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1221V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

Soundstream PN1.650D Class D 650w Monoblock Picasso Nano Series Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L117RK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QMggvb00WJSNJ


KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IY3BI6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hOggvb1872SWH

$80 box, 2 x $60 subs, $110 amp, $20 wiring, total $330. Way better quality components. Recommended the same box and subs to a different user on here and they love it!

Let me know if you have any more questions or need help :)

If you want to actually mirror your screen, you need this with a radio that accepts HDMI. Carplay is similar to mirroring, there's plenty of youtube videos that demonstrates what it's about, a lot more limited than mirroring though. I don't personally use it but the Kenwood DDX9703S is a beautiful radio, if you want a cheaper radio though this Pioneer is neat as well.

Yes, I have one of these. Yes, it will auto-connect once paired. I would recommend a unit with the ability to skip tracks like the one posted above. It is a lot easier to change songs with a push of a button.
https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487627478&sr=8-1&keywords=soundbot+bluetooth
I use this in my other car.

>Edit:

LOC. I work with these daily. With good results.

Amp kits selection is near infinite, as long as it's OFC, and has decent quality RCAs, it's fine.


>Edit 2:

Wouldn't be my choices, but they'd suffice. Why not consider JL's amp kit? Price?


>Edit 3:

The Rockford badged kit probably has better wire composition. Has a more versatile fuse holder. And better RCAs. As well as being sold as Rockford, and not Lightning.

If you can, find someone that sells Hybrid gear and take a demo of the imagine, unity and clarus lines (it's my favorite sound atm).

While there, demo with and without a solid 4ch amp. It looks like without jbl, it's a fairly basic affair to swap speakers out.

I do agree that without an amp, your sound upgrade won't be great as that factory deck might put out about 10w a channel rms. I was actually torn on whether to just recommend trying a micro amp first or go all in. I decided to go all in, so this would be what I'd spend $1000 on:

HAT Unity 6.5 comp $430

Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 $160

at least front door sound treatment $60

So that's $650 and leaves you room for install labor plus a small amp kit for power/ground. That should be a solid set up with good midbass and a fair amount of musical accuracy, too. Heck, you could step up to the clarus line (I prefer that of the three mentioned) and only be at $850

It would be difficult to find a proper headunit with a cassette, but i can give you a few items to go by.

Headunit - DEH-150mp

(dash kit, wiring harness and antenna adapter of course)

keeping budget in mind, and that that car has 4 4x8 sized speakers, i would get two sets of these adaptors to allow for 5.25 speakers.
I personally use 2 sets of Polk db522
and for the money they sound decent.

You could leave it like that and it would be enjoyable or you can go the extra step and get something like a RF4 channel amp, with amp install kit and be right around your 500 mark.

Keep in mind that i am far from an expert. Just wanted to give you a direction.

Sorry bud, I am going to have to agree with the others here, please find a way to return that.

Regarding replacing the head unit, it's not necessary. You can use a PAC line out convertor to convert the rear speaker outputs into something the amp can accept, and it has a nifty amp turn on circuit that detects signal on the speaker wires and turns your amp on.

Also, what wiring kit do you have already? This is more important than you realize. The lowest I would go is the Scosche amp install kits you can pick up from your local Walmart as their build quality is decent and they're oxygen free copper. If you want to step up a notch I'd go for the NVX brand kits from Sonic Electronix.

Now, onto the sub and amp. The Cruze doesn't have the largest trunk so I would stick to a single high quality sub and, to the chagrin of others here, match it with a decent prefabricated box. You spent $140 on that Dual brand setup so I'll try to keep it around that mark:

• Sub: Pioneer TS-W3003D4 12" sub - $90
  
• Box: Belva 1.5 cubic foot enclosure - $40
  
  For an amp, spending about $100-$120 would get something that powers that sub nicely. Here's one that is compact and will put out the power that's printed on the box (unlike some brands...):
  
  
• Amp: Precision Power iON i650.1
  
  If you don't have at least a 4 gauge oxygen free copper amp install kit then I suggest you return what you have and pick one of these up:
  
  
• NVX 4 gauge OFC amp install kit - $80
  
  I know this seems expensive for cabling, but it includes speaker wire and RCA wires for a complete install, and you do NOT want to use cheap wire as it can burn your car up or cause random electrical oddities with your amp install.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

1. Line output converters are passive. They simply convert speaker wire to RCA cabling. The only thing to consider when purchasing a LOC is how well it will filter out NOISE. Consider a reputable brand (alpine, rockford, etc.) and ensure that you have a solid ground when connecting the LOC.
   
   
2. You do not need to access the rear of the radio to connect an aftermarket system. For a subwoofer, you would simply disconnect the factory sub and tap into the lines with the LOC.
   
   
3. You should remove the factory amp and install your own component speaker lines, however take caution in doing so because you are correct in considering connector types. Some cars have proprietary connectors for their audio equipment (or any OEM equipment for that matter) and would need to be modified to interface with an aftermarket unit.
   
   Did you know that some amplifiers are sold with the ability to connect directly to speaker lines (without the need for a LOC)? They even have the hpf and lpf built in. The speaker interfaces on these types of amplifiers are called "speaker-level inputs" or "line-level inputs" Google it and I'm sure you'll find quite a few to fit your needs. Here's the one that I have used on my car.
   
   I was in the same boat as you as I could not install an aftermarket radio in my car because the radio had AC/navigation controls, etc. Damn newer cars, but I still wanted a subwoofer. So I used that Kenwood amp to install it and it sounds great.

I miss my 4runner like hell. I had the same exact year. The Couple tips I'll give are as follows.

1. Rear speakers are not very important due to low mounting
   
   
2. When you pull the factory woofers cut the speaker out of the frame. Then mount that to the door. Put the speaker in place and run long screws through the plastic to the metal. This will help with clearance issues and having to do extra work drilling and mdf rings.
   
   
3. get a very small amount of deadening for the front doors. The lows are much cleaner. A MUST WITH NO SUB!!
   
   
4. Amp them if at all possible.
   
   Enjoy your 4runner. I loved mine. And I will have another some day
   
   Amp: $60
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GN5K650/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465707141&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41GaE-RQw8L&ref=plSrch
   
   Components: $140
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5JPTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707295&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hertz+component&dpPl=1&dpID=51V1OG4m70L&ref=plSrch
   
   Or these for $150. These have rear Fill out on the crossovers which could benefit you as well.
   
   http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/sxp65a-diamond-audio-6-5-150w-rms-sxblack-series-convertible-component-speaker-system-aluminum-tweeters.html
   
   
   Rear speakers: $ 85
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5C1C6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465707841&sr=8-2&pi=CB192198896_AA75_QL70&keywords=hertz+5.25
   
   
   
   Wiring kit: $23
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IY3BI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707977&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51v-IV8NmXL&ref=plSrch
   
   
   I spent $307 very wisely. If you get a head unit from sonic electronics they give you the install kit. Some decent pioneer and Kenwood units are in 200 or so range allowing for a small order of sound deadening.
   
   I'd figure 250 to 350 for the radio making the total 557-657.
   
   30 is plenty to get some sound deadening. Making my total $587-687.
   
   Another option to help the speakers reach potential are the Mini amps you can install behind the dash. I really want to get you the sound quality you seek. But doing so effectively means a amp
   

Yes. It's android autos google maps based off your phone. They make google maps and spotify driver safe. But still both work fine for the basics. I come from the same background as you and I love this device. Play around with the MHL stuff too. And absolutely 100% get this

Check out the Rockford Fosgate p300. It is a powered sub that comes in a 10" or 12" for a few bucks more. I just got the 12" and it is awesome. More bass than I need. I got the sub and wiring kit for right around $200. I went with this because both versions have incredibly positive reviews, the price didn't break my budget, it doesn't take up a huge amount of space, and it was my first sub install so having a single unit seemed easier.

Thanks for the info. Do you think the MTX amp would be worth it in the long run (like, would the Power Acoustik amp die on me)?

Also: I've heard that these Alpines are great speakers and I am wondering if it would be worth it to shell out the extra $50. Or maybe I should go with these Polks. You seem to be pretty educated when it comes to audio; what would your choice be?

Before upgrading my head unit I used this fm transmitter that I bought on Amazon without much problems. The only problem being that there would be interference when driving next to a bus, but it wasn't a big issue. 2 years and it was going strong but gave it to my dad when I upgraded my head unit. He hasn't mentioned any issues since he's had it so it must still be going strong

This is the transmitter: GOgroove FlexSMART X2 Wireless In-Car Bluetooth FM Transmitter with Charging , Music Control , and Hands-Free Calling - Works with iPhone , Samsung , HTC , LG , Sony , Motorola , Nokia & Many More! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PPGOC0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DY1Gub0SR8SXB

I think most people here recommend KnuKonceptz because it's inexpensive and true to gauge. You can buy some extra wire by the foot for the Big 3. By the way that's some great equipment.

I hope I'm not too late to suggest this amp over that sound ordinance. Kid you not man, this little Soundstream is fantastic, and for the price its even better. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008L117RK/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?qid=1394119237&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I use this in my van and my avalanche, it plugs into your 12v socket and tunes to a radio station of your choosing (88.1 works best for me) then he has hands free BT operation, without all the fuss and expense.

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-FlexSMART-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free/dp/B003PPGOC0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406773838&sr=8-2&keywords=bluetooth+fm

Well noted. I've heard this before and follow. A while ago I had a boss head unit and it was awful. I have a pioneer now. My amps and speakers are almost all Fosgate. 3 of these for my mids and highs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HYBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The crossover settings on this thing were definitely a challenge to get correct. As far as having a clean sound I haven't noticed any degradation in sound from having the crossover in system vs not. At the end of the day I got my bang for my buck with this little crossover.

I got a good ear for sound but being this my 3rd build I'm still getting use to what is good and what isn't, and car audio in general.

I've been using this for a year or two and it's been great. It sounds good, too!

Hook the Bazooka harness's red cable to your car radio harness's orange cable. Hook the Bazooka harness's blue/white cable into your fuse box with an "add-a-circuit" available at your local Walmart or Autozone. Use some speaker wire or something to get it over there and ziptie it neatly along they way. Add it to a circuit that turns on and off with the key, maybe the cigarette lighter circuit. Hook the black ground ring to a bare metal (not painted) bolt on your car's chassis. Hook the speakers up as stated. When you're all done, make sure it works and that it turns off when your car is off. Enjoy!

Yes that's the one. Just match the colors with the harness that comes with the deck that you buy. Join the wires with crimp caps or butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink if you feel comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector--100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/

You need a special crimping tool. You could possibly get away with something you already have.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/

Or, I guess, some screw on wire nuts and then zip tie or tape it together.

Remove the screws from the factory deck and put your new deck into the bracket with the pocket, the new deck should have the holes there.

Thanks for the comment!

what do you think of these http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371929199&sr=8-1&keywords=SPR-60C

would you recommend getting coaxial speakers in the rear?

Rotary engines can't power aftermarket audio equipment..... :P

But srs, get a nice Double Din(Pioneer/Kenwood/Clarion)

Get a nice 4 channel amp, and I'd suggest(with 6x8 to 6.5 adapters) these polks upfront and these in the rear

If you're wondering why I suggest adapters, it's because the choices for 6x8's are slim to none.

Then perhaps consider a Kenwood like this one which will get you more bang for your buck, and have enough power to make the sub sing. I guess I recommended the Punch and Power lines because the Prime line doesn't have as much dynamic power above its rms, which is why it would underpower your choice of sub.

I didn’t have any luck finding a separate Hertz mid to match your tweeters but you could always get the Hertz DSK 165.3 component set that matches those tweeters and sell the two sets of coaxials.

If you’re feeling adventurous you could get a completely separate mid that isn’t a Hertz brand but there’s a lot of options out there and that could be a difficult choice to make if you’re not sure how they will pair with the tweeters. On the plus side you can tweak the crossover points a little to see if different LP/HP crossovers work better.

I haven't had that bad of experiences with FM Transmitter, I got this couple of years ago when I had an old Dodge Neon (http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-FlexSMART-Transmitter-Multipoint-Hands-Free/dp/B003PPGOC0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1453059082&sr=8-5&keywords=bluetooth+car+adapter)

The quality to me sounded clear, but again, I was essentially hoping for another option other than that.

I used to own this unit before I got my aftermarket head unit. Flexsmart X2 it will automatically look for the FM frequency with the least amount of interference when you held down the center button. It was pretty clear in quality in my 2003 accord with window embedded FM antenna.

I bought MLV from Amazon with free shipping. Used other materials from SDS and used his method. Bought TMS MLV. No issues with smell. It was easy enough to work with.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008JHE1P6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

Thanks to all the people who were helpful, including the ones just trying to be helpful....

I found an old thread on a Volvo forum with someone having similar issues, he replaced it with a Pioneer unit, similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Ts-sw3002s4-1500-watt-Shallow-Subwoofer/dp/B00K9854T0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464740744&sr=8-1&keywords=TS-SW3002S4

Just ordered it.

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.
  
  

• Combination of SQ and SPL
  
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• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)
  
  

• 2004 Volvo S60 Sedan
  
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• What is your maximum budget? (either all at once or over time as budget allows)
  
  

• Since i'm only looking for the sub itself at the moment to install in my 33hz ported box, around $200
  
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• Will you be installing the gear or will you have it installed by someone else, such as at a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include cost of installation?
  
  

• Myself
  
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• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear. If upgrading, list previously installed equipment)
  
  

• I have a avh pionner head unit, one jbl speaker amp, one 2000w kenwood amp, one 15' XFL 1522, 33hz ported box *I know i should fabricate my own box but that will be a future project, and one capacitor with a digital meter with 4 gauge wire traveling from that to my kenwood amp.
  
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• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here that you may feel are necessary and beneficial to the discussion.
  
  

• USA

it does look good, how does it compare to the Pioneer AppRadio 4?

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPH-DA120-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Smartphone/dp/B00O8B7CFS

I wanted carplay mainly for the maps function but according to one review I watched, google maps still cant be used and apple maps is still garbage... lol

The knivio bluetooth is a good call, ive had mine for almost a year now which works perfectly and have done exactly what you want to do. What i used was an Add a circuit and then wired a new cig socket to the add a circuit i bought form autozone. Now it will auto connect and turn on only when the key is switched to acc position when connected to the right fuse, typically rap, ign, with that specific size fuse. Also i just hid the extra socket under the dash. Also if you do end up getting a noticeable noise/interference which i highly doubt use this ground loop isolator.

A power inverter is what you'll need. As for wiring it in, perhaps something like this will help. You could just find a circuit that comes on with the key (radio circuit usually) to plug that into. However, that wire does seem a little too thin to run an inverter..

MLV: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JHE1P6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CCF: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URV8MFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CLD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used various CLD's in the past (you can see some Dynamat Extreme on my front door). I figured the Noico would work well and it seems to have done well so far.

I did see a review on Amazon about the CCF glue delaminating when applied directly to the MLV, so I elected to use it on the door panel directly to keep the glue away from the MLV.

Thanks for showing the math behind it, definitely shows how falsely they have advertised it

With the welding cable, i have found this after a quick Google search
http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/70mm-welding-cable/
They offer 50mm, 35mm etc but 70mm is the biggest. Is that worth it?
What about this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/KnuKonceptz-Gauge-Amplifier-Wiring-Installation/dp/B004YWC4FY/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1495667068&sr=8-27&keywords=amp+wiring+kit
It says CCA but I have no idea what that means in terms of performance
They do offer a long grounding wire for the "big 3" upgrade as xxYYZxx said, if that's worth it

0.95 cubic feet per sub or total? If its 0.95 cubic feet total then this pioneer shallow mount is your best bet. You can get two and wire them in parallel for a final impedance of 2 ohms. Use this matching pioneer amp and you've got an el cheapo system that should sound decent.

Eh, that HU isn't the best around but it will be fine to keep if you want to make other upgrades to increase the quality. How about these speakers mounted on baffle rings powered off this amp. Then this sub in a custom built ported or sealed enclosure powered off this amp.

Also, buy some Knukonceptz Kno Knoise Kollosus and sealed and deaden your doors.

Please give the exact model name. Are they the SWS-10D2? If so they handle 500W RMS @ 2 ohms. If you have 2, then that means you want an amp that handles 1000W RMS @ 2 ohms wired like this or direct. An affordable amp that meets these specs is the Kenwood KAC-9106D.

Those would work, but unless your planning to swap radios frequently crimp caps or butt connectors are easier. They are available and just about every auto parts and hardware store.

This one is as close to rated rms as I could find you under 100. Skar used to have a lp500 model that did 500@1 and was cheaper than 100 but it seems they have been discontinued.

Believe me... It's worth it to up your budget about $50 bucks. What's the rush? It will be worth it in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008L117RK/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1500044353&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=soundstream+amp

Not an expert*

How about these:

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-6-5-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1380826199&sr=8-2&keywords=db6501

And then a 50w x4 amp, maybe this :

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYBG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1380826462&sr=8-4&keywords=50x4+amp

Just a starter suggestion.

You'd also need a wiring kit for the amp. Knukonceptz is your friend.

$95 Pioneer 6800bt Or your fav Kenwood, Alpine, etc in this range.

$140 Hertz DSK

$190 5 PPi channel amp Would bridge the amp for the front and skip the rear, or use head unit power

$110 JBL sub

I'd ditch the rear speakers, or put in cheap ones of your current ones are blown, or whatever... They don't matter too much.

Seems to be a pretty cheapie LOC. I suggest trying a PAC-AUDIO LP7-2. I've used many of those with minimal issues.

PAC LP7-2 L.O.C. PRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter with Remote Turn On https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0YASQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f2StxbWY4QWMW

The soundbot is really good I used it in my patriot when I had it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RH29CJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2

Non-mobile: I can vouch for its clarity as I used it for about a year.

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

that amp is just over rated ... its the same as the soundstream picasso nano, and the precision power ion series

good on a budget

Pioneer AppRadio 4 SPH-DA120

This is probably the most(only?) reputable aftermarket brand that offers Apple Car Play.

I am looking for something similar as well, and although I have no experience with this one, it looks nice:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPH-DA120-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Smartphone/dp/B00O8B7CFS/ref=sr_1_5?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1462902699&sr=1-5&keywords=android+auto

what if i just threw in a not-so-great 4 channel amp like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-R300X4-Prime-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYBG/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1482646243&sr=1-3&keywords=4+channel+amp

bang

get a four gauge kit while you're at it and look at the sidebar for how to set your gains with a DMM

Im gonna hook you up with two different set ups that will more than meet your goals: Either one will use this wiring kit. First 2 Soundqubed HDS212 subs and make sure you get dual 2 ohm voice coils. And get this box thats right around $400 for subs and a proper box. Or you could go with sundown E12s with this box for a little more$. for either setup a CAB 1600.1 for $200.

No matter which setup you pick you will be under the $800 you have budgeted.

Oh, and I don't know if it helps, but here's the parts we're working with:

Enclosed Rockford sub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2W2Q

Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBRWZW

Front door speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109JBLG76/JBL-GT7-6.html?tp=78072

Rear door speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109JBLG76/JBL-GT7-6.html?tp=78072

This powers on with my car and auto connects to my phone. Also turns off with car as well.


SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SbnlybG68ZKJB

I've been using the SoundBot SB 360
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yKjbzbDDJZBA7

I use Jaybird's walking to my car (I park 15 minutes off campus to avoid paying) and as soon as I start the engine my music resumes through the car. Connects very quickly, a little clunky when changing devices when a friend wants to connect though. But I think this will fit your criteria.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TJDFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I guess I didn't really think about just drilling a hole to match the speakers. now i feel like a retard lol. I'll see if i can return the 5.25 and buy the 6.75 set instead.

This one is nice. I would go for the 12. And all you need to run is power, ground, and 2 rcas 1 left and 1 right. I don't know how they wired a combined channel but I would run new RCAs from the head unit back to the powered sub.

orrrr if you want to up the budget a little this sub this amp and this wiring kit same box

The power connector needs to run to a switched power source. In Trailblazers (and most other late model GMs), there is no switched power wire for the stereo. This gives you 2 options. Option 1 is to run the power connector wire to a physical switch that you would have to flip to turn the amp on and off. This is less than ideal, because if you forget to turn it off, you can end up draining your battery. Option 2 is to get an add-a-fuse, and put it in to a slot (such as cigarette lighter) in the fuse box (under the rear seat) that will give you switched power. You might have to try a few different slots until one works.

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369754411&sr=8-1&keywords=add+a+circuit

https://www.amazon.com/SA68-Convertible-Speaker-adapter-pair/dp/B0007TJDFM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=5x7+speaker+adapter+6.5&qid=1563678612&s=gateway&sprefix=5x7+speaker+adap&sr=8-4

What about this amp?

http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kac-9105D-1800-Watt-Class-Amplifier/dp/B0037ZRP7G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=29HO2C1HWEBFM&coliid=I27SDR0JHEAJL6

What about this setup?

amp with DSP

speakers 1

speakers 2

TMS Mass Loaded Vinyl 4' X 10' 40 Square Feet 1 Lb MLV Acoustic Barrier

$120 for 40ft^2

This seems reasonable, should be enough for a car.

https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Soundproofing-Barrier-Highest-Quality/dp/B008JHE1P6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=MLV&qid=1563051341&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-PN1-650D-Monoblock-Picasso-Amplifier/dp/B008L117RK

I used this to power my subwoofer when I had a car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF9BTDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1502985702641

Found this on Amazon, what do you think? https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-9106D-2000W-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B00IF9BTDK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1000%2Bwatt%2Brms%2Bmono%2Bamp&qid=1574539956&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

Parts so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKHTMLA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AO3YTZ6BCMVCB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NF5EQHK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0LUG30/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K9854T0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NYACAJP9I1IY

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPHDA120-APPRADIO4-Apple-Carplay/dp/B00O8B7CFS

MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer Model AVH-4100NEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lvQCxbNCTX540

HU: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51eUfp1qb2L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Bypass: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Automatic-Interface-AVH-4100NEX-AVH-4200NEX/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-2&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51x1VlAngzL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If you only have 250 and don't want to spend more..
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-10-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W2Q
+ wiring is about as close as you will get... not including a LOC...


Dunno what sub and box the shop is using to have the cost at 200$

So I'm thinking This amp with 2 sets of These speakers. I had and Alpine amp and speakers in my old truck and I never had any issues with them and they had no distortion when I cranked them up. I figure I might as well replace them all at once.

2 steps:

1. before turning ignition, I check voltage (+) and Remote wire. Verified 12V
   
2. After turning ignition, checked (+) and Remote, and the voltage is 0.
   
   I have a parking brake bypass installed that connects to blue-white (Remote), Ground (black) and Left Rear Speaker (Green).
   
   I am suspicious that the bypass is grounding the remote signal causing the woofer to not turn on.
   
   Will remove the bypass and try again.
   
   For nice bare metal, should I just sand the paint off in a small area and ground it to the metal with a self-tapping screw? Will watch some videos to get that done correctly.

Thanks, for the input. Say I added a used $125
Fosgate R600x5
(craigslist)
or a new R300x4. Do you think there are a pair of component speakers that could do "good" without a sub?

I guess if I have an amp, at that point setting up a sub wouldn't be too bad at that point, but I'm worried I won't be happy with the amount of space it takes up.

Think it would be possible to "replace" a woofer with some more bass-heavy speakers in the rear?

I'm looking at putting these in the doors. Trying to upgrade from these. The oval component speaker market is hella limited- slim pickins.

 

I also have an 8" sub, no name brand, will likely replace the driver with a shallow mount ??? brand woofer (haven't got that far yet- doing this all on a budget, so it's one thing at a time).