(Part 3) Top products from r/CherokeeXJ

Northern AZ XJ guy here. Not sure about local places around PHX, but a good place to start is this book and be ready to travel a little. There are a number of great trails and off road areas throughout the state. The southern areas require a good cooling system, and the when it snows up north, a good heater! A really interesting place to live; I hope you like it!

Guide to Arizona Backroads

Not sure if there's a swap guide out there or not. I figured it out after seeing someone on CherokeeForum (I think) post about having done it back in 2016.

I ended up grabbing a ZJ tank out of one that was being parted out for something like $20, and took it home do some measurements. Best I could figure with a tape measure without dropping the XJ tank, it looked like it would shoehorn in tight.

Took a little time to clean out the ZJ tank really well & ordered a new Bosch fuel pump unit for the swap (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C6023G/). Interestingly, the old XJ & old ZJ pumps were identical right down to the part #s on them even though different sources (Bosch online catalog, parts stores catalogs) showed different #s for the applications.

Ran the XJ tank down as far to empty as I could driving it, then sat out in the driveway the night prior and let it run for a while until it started sputtering and shut it off for the night. *If you do this, make sure you've got a 2-3gal can of gas for the new tank.

Worst part was the j-bolts holding the straps for the tank in place, but I had been blasting them pretty good with AeroKroil daily for about a week in advance.

Did all the work myself, used a floor jack to support the tank and drop it after undoing the straps. It was pretty easy to undo everything (filler neck, fuel lines, elec to the pump, etc) and swap it all over to the ZJ tank.

Turns out the ZJ tank is barely dimensionally bigger than the XJ tank (sorry, I didn't write down any measurements) and it was a tight fit to where it was a pain in the ass getting the filler neck reattached to the body. A lot of skin was lost jamming a hand up there between the frame rail and the tank but it's doable.

XJ on the left, ZJ on the right. They're closer in size than the photo makes it look (screwy perspective and the tanks are offset). https://i.imgur.com/j7ktcx3.jpg

After I got everything bolted back together, I threw in 2-1/2 gallons of gas (remember I mentioned having 2-3gal can of gas on hand for the new tank) and drove to Sam's Club to fill up.

https://i.imgur.com/7UvodGK.jpg (gas prices in Feb 2016!)

If I had tried to top off the tank, I could have probably hit 26gal even.

Taking my time, I want to say it took 3-4 hours to knock this out by myself.

One takeaway from doing this was seeing all the shit in the old XJ tank (it was a 2001) and how dirty the filter on the fuel pump was.

I went to best buy about 2 weeks ago and bought the 6.5" kicker speakers for my 01 and they were great. I have an alpine head unit and the sound difference is night and day. I have the same setup in my 06 LJ too. If I can make one suggestion for the subwoofer. I got a single 10" shallow sub and it bumps pretty hard. It was the Rockford Fosgate shallow 10 and I recommend really highly. Amazon has it for cheap, get an after market head unit, decent sized amp, and power the one speaker. You'll never get clipping or static. The amp won't over heat (as long as you get the right ratings)

This sub

And this amp

I don't do pucks for bump stops. These work, but I'm more partial to these which require modification to fit, yet yield a softer ride.

You'll want about three inches of spacer on top of an isolator to get to where you want to be. You may also try JK Rubicon coils with the spacers you have, as they're good for an extra inch or two.

I can't comment on the ZJ track bar. You'll need to check everything at full stuff and full drop anyway. With original everything, the track bar will hit the top of its bracket at the axle. Once you change the track bar, something else will become your limiter, probably the lower control arms. Factory sway bar links are too short and should be extended before they get bent.

If you don't really wheel it, or consider easy forest roads to be hard core, then a factory track bar may last years.

Edit: had to fix a word.

Got these ones. Definitely nothing fancy, but they are getting the job done. Had to put some rubber spacers in to make it fit the rack, but that was really simple. Super secure front to back and came with some nice tie-downs. Wobbles a tiny bit side-to-side with the flex of the rack when you hit bumps, but no problems so far.

All in all, two thumbs up.

http://www.amazon.com/TMS-KAYAK-RK-J-1BOX-Universal-Carrier/dp/B003V57NUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405359817&sr=8-1&keywords=kayak+mount#productDetails

I used Curt Hitches for both the front and back of my XJ. I tried a Reese hitch but it was a huge piece of shit (and I dont use that term often). It was multiple pieces and after it was installed it was a few inches off the ground. Total piece of crap.

Anyway back to the Curt hitches. I ordered both off of amazon so shipping was free. The came packaged well and were both one piece hitches. They did a good job on the finish and had really nice welds all around. They also came with all bolts and a tool to fish the bolts through the frame. Both of them when installed had the receiver just below the bumper.

Here's the back

[Here's the front] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ES21EE/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Get one that goes into your hitch. It'll be centered and easily removed.
https://discountflagoutlet.com/index.php/tow-hitch-mount-flagpole-holder.html If you don't want to buy one, you could probably make one pretty easily using an old ball mount.

Here's another one I just found:
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-51611-Hitch-Flagpole-Holder/dp/B004IVGA0G
I like stuff that'll fit into a hitch because its not a permanent modification. I'm not drilling holes in my vehicle. If I don't like the look of something I can simply remove it from the hitch and sell it.

thanks! these are the cheapest J Racks on Amazon and they work pretty good!

I don’t live in Arizona, but my dad bought this guys book for California in the 80s. He has new ones and I use them for California. He has an Arizona book. I would strongly encourage it.

https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Arizona-Backroads-4-Wheel-Drive-Trails/dp/1934838195

I'll almost guarantee its the valve cover gasket. All of my 4.0 powered jeeps have leaked from the valve cover and it looks just like it's coming from the rear main. Replace it with the good Fel-Pro gasket or some RTV and that should take care of it for the life of your engine.

I've done a cowl intake, using this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-9948-Intake-Cherokee/dp/B005M1ZBGA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Spectre isn't making it right now, iirc they were working on redoing it. That was several years ago, so who knows. I love this kit, got it after I was above the headlights in water and hydrolocked. I don't like the look of snorkels so this was fine for me.

Rockauto probably has it cheaper, but every part you'll need other than bumper guard squeezies.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PS9POC/ - grille

https://www.amazon.com/Crash-Parts-Plus-Headlight-Mounting/dp/B01KILYQOQ - header panel

https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Replacement-Turn-Signal-Light/dp/B002PQJ9HC - front signals

https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Replacement-Corner-Light-Unit/dp/B002PQOA8K - corner signals

https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-12421-01-Headlight-Housing/dp/B000FQ1XZA

https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-12421-02-Headlight-Housing/dp/B000FQ7QFQ - headlights, easier to get both and assemble the entire panel as one piece

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42185-Headlight-Adjusting-Screw - x2 get two sets, they are cheap enough to get new instead of trying to reuse

https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-12420-03-Headlight-Retaining-Ring/dp/B000FQ247Q - get two

https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-12419-10-Headlight-Bezel/dp/B000FQ24AI

https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-12419-09-Headlight-Bezel/dp/B000FQ95LO - left and right headlight bezels

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCD2QW/

https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-12035-46-Bumper-End-Cap/dp/B000FQ06VM

https://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-12035-47-Bumper-End-Cap/dp/B000FQ7QDS - bumper and end caps

https://www.amazon.com/CHEROKEE-84-01-FRONT-LICENSE-BRACKET/dp/B00C7Y82V6 - license plate bracket

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009DJXSHQ/ - fender

That's a cute crack, baby ;*

All XJ's crack right there. It's a weak spot that is made weaker because of the steering gear. Weld on the reinforcement plate, and buy a RE trackbar with frame tie in. Yes, a 110 mug welder will work. Use flux core. Don't go stupid and focus all your heat on the unibody side as you'll blow right through it.

This: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GJK9NW
This: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1660-Track-Jeep/dp/B006GJKA2M
and this: www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1670-Track-Bracket/dp/B006GJO82K

you could also weld some angle between the front parts of the frame, right under and behind the radiator core support.

If you want to buy a flagpole mount, here's a good one on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee-New-Holder-Hardware/dp/B001EMSPW8

still sucks, but its better than spilling coffee all over yourself.

Literally my favorite thing I've bought for my xj. Just buy it. Now.

Jeep Cherokee XJ New Cup Holder w/o Hardware https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EMSPW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xkdLybJ4GNHZN

Yeah OP might want to try this with the L wrench style with the torx end

here

I'm looking at something like this

This is what I used for my '00 XJ:

50 Door Panel Retainer Clips Chrysler # 6504014 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040CRTK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Uq4xxbE5RYHSD

They fit the doors and the liftgate.

While everything is apart, I would get a replacement inlet tube.

Yours looks like it's about to let go.

You could go with 3.5" Rubicon express leaf springs or 3" OME by ARB leaf springs in the rear. As for front, I'd go with Rubicon express 3.5" coils.

Edit: Don't forget the u bolts (no link because they're different depending on your rear axle), and the t case drop.

Two day prime shipping for $162, one day for $200. Might as well get new straps while you're at it. If it were me, the pump would show up before I managed to get the old one out.

Mine isn't super loud. But good enough for me.
I put in this double din head. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PV45GXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_F.wRwbBZ29KCN
Trust me, it's a pain in the ass.
Then I put these speakers. Rockford Fosgate R1525X2 Prime 5.25-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HX9E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ncxRwb4E81K7D
Eventually, I might put a 10 inch subwoofer and amp inside the right hand cubby.

I bought this from Amazon. Mounts right to the frame. 3 bolts.

Non-mobile:

• 3.5" Rubicon express leaf springs
  
• 3" OME by ARB leaf springs
  
• Rubicon express 3.5" coils
  
  ^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble.

I just replaced mine with Rockford Fosgate 5.25's all around.

Link

Rears https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GH1OH4/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VMR2GMTZAN38X0C5CMN3
Fronts https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GH1OCO/ref=pd_aw_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VT5KPW4R52PRVBT7CVDM
Do the front when you lift it so you don't have to pull the coil off again. Those should be the right size for your lift and tires.

Fel-pro makes one-piece pan gaskets that are top notch. I just got done doing this job on my '92, along with the rear main seal, oil filter adapter housing o-rings, and valve cover gasket.

Dry as a bone now.

To OP: I would also check the oil filter adapter for leaking. Very common. And if you do buy gaskets for the pan and valve cover, spend the extra money on the one piece Fe-Pro gaskets. They're worth every penny.

tips on pan gasket replacement:

• Buy RTV that is designed for use with oil
  
• Put RTV on the rear main cap to pan mating surface, the corners where the main cap and block meet, the corners up front on the timing cover, and the lower timing cover to pan mating surface. Also dab some RTV on each side of the pan rail in the middle of each side.
  
• Put the gasket against the block and insert pan bolts close to each location you put RTV above and tighten hand tight
  
• Let sit over night, or long enough that RTV will hold pan gasket in place while you wrestle the pan in place
  
• Before installing pan, put more RTV in the same spots as above, but on the gasket surface this time.
  
• Install pan without trying to wrestle everything in place and getting RTV everywhere except where it should be

Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:

amp

front speakers



subs

rear speakers

wiring:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?

Or you could just buy the right tool on Amazon. Here you go, use a socket over the end for a cheater bar. Bondhus 31860 Tagged and Barcoded T60 Star Tip Hex Key L-Wrench with ProGuard Finish, 7.2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KAAR38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OuK2Cb3NVZ5A2

That thing is mint except for the bumper.

I'll just leave this here:
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Cherokee-Wagoneer-Partslink-CH1002160/dp/B004GCD2QW/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1481790943&sr=8-9&keywords=jeep+cherokee+bumper

The frequently bought together section in the middle of the page has all the parts you need to make this 100% mint.

I just bought one of those myself, crashed my XJ the the day before Thanksgiving when my big flotation tires broke loose on a rainy intersection. When I have it all fixed, I'll post a full article and the video.

Start of a long line of new parts for the 2000 XJ:

• Spicer ball joints
  
• Timken Hubs
  
• Drag link
  
• Drag link end (to pitman arm)
  
• Drag link adjusting sleeve
  
• Tie rod end (to drag link)
  
• Tie rod end (to DS steering knuckle)
  
• Steering Damper
  
• Front rotors / pads
  
• Rear drums / shoes
  
• Random o2 sensor that has exposed wires
  
  Finally got the ball joints out yesterday around 1pm.
  
  Had to go get an impact gun to even touch the axle nut. Then the damn 13mm 12 point bolts that hold the hub in. Some how I did not strip a single one but have no faith in putting them back in, so now waiting for new bolts to be delivered. Every single cotter pin on the ball joints were so rusted and pushed into the castle nut that I couldn't get them out, so go get new impact sockets (and another trip for swivel sockets for the upper) and unleash all hell to shear the cotter pins off.
  
  
  Finally got to pushing the ball joints out and the OTC set receiving cup is a touch to big for the lower ball joint, so off to Harbor Freight to get an adapter set.
  
  Anyways, half a rant but happy to hopefully have a Jeep that wont wobble down the road.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ09114BK-Front-Bump-Stop/dp/B001GH1OCO

Older Jeeps (pre 97 I believe) - https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ09101BK-Bump-Stop-Piece/dp/B001GH1O9C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487952975&sr=1-1&keywords=KJ09101Bk

Cheapest you'll find them (unless you use hockey pucks up front). Just did mine on my ~3-3.5" lift with 33's.

Haven't done the fronts yet - can you do them without taking out springs? I really don't feel like taking the springs out, I reluctantly did it doing the lift but spring compressors fucking terrify me.