(Part 2) Top products from r/DanceDanceRevolution

> and that you had a ddrgame metal pad that you preferred over the tape pad.

No, I threw my ddrgame pads away because they were no longer repairable (without welding!) a year or two before I built the tape pad, so no I would not have said this. In several places I have explained that they needed constant repair when they did still work and I do not recommend anybody buy them.

It's true when I built the tape pad I could only play at a 7, but now I mostly play 9s now. But yeah it's a far cry from 17 and I don't think I'll ever get anywhere near that skill level so I'll never be able to test that out on anything.

BUT, the foam in my tape pad design is extremely thin and bouncy - not like the stuff used in soft pads which will stay depressed a bit after a hard press. There really is no ghosting, I wouldn't have continued with the design if there was. The top surface is very strong but also very locally flexible, if you slide off as soon as you are past the visual perimeter of the arrow the contact will stop. And as far as not being able to feel where the arrows are, that's precisely what I was saying was the similarity between your design and mine - flat top, no recessed arrows. I understand you added something to give some feel to it though there was a review on this sub a while back that said it wasn't very noticeable.

For the record, I'm not suggesting that anyone build a tape pad instead of just buying an Omega GX. The materials and hours of labor it takes to build a tape pad are really not a good deal when you can buy an existing robust product for $300. I just don't like you dissing my design!

As far as videos online, very few people have the Impact Arcade pads because they cost a ton and are actually very hard to learn about online if you don't know what to look for because they are not actually associated with DDR or ITG anywhere - the company that makes it and the software to go with it probably wants to stay far from that so they don't get sued. I actually found out about the Impact pads when searching for a used set of Cobalt Flux pads, the reference was from some discussion buried several pages deep in Google results, not easy to find at all.

If I were you, apparently a level 17 player who is basing a business on selling DDR pads, I would buy an Impact Arcade pad and do the same song twice, once on that and once on an Omega, and film pad+screen, and prove that the Impact pad will miss or ghost or in some way not work well as you are guessing - and to be fair you are guessing at this point.

I do applaud what you're doing, firstly because you are turning something you are clearly very passionate about into a business, and secondly because it certainly seems like your product is the best available in its price range - and it's a very good price range to be in. I'd like to caution you, however, that there are two patents (that I know of) which could pose a problem for you.

US7122751 This one is actually owned by Cobalt Flux and maintenance fees are paid up on it despite the company closing many years ago so that means the owner does intend to enforce their rights if there is any infringement. I'm not saying you are infringing, but you should probably look into it if you have not already. This one is scary because it seems very generic though I find it hard to read. Although you have said your switch design is nothing like the Cobalt Flux design, claim #1 of this patent is quite generically describing a set of pressure activated switches in a dance pad that it seems like any DDR pad would apply - including the original DDR arcade machines which would obviously be prior art so I'm not sure how this claim #1 of patent was approved. It's possible that Cobalt Flux continues to maintain the patent because they are being paid royalties from the company that makes the Impact pads.

Then there is this application which is still pending. This one is easier to read, they reference and add on to 7122751 with specific features so you won't infringe so long as you do not both taper the edges of the pad and add more than one handle to the outer perimeter.

By the way, the circuit board in this Bluetooth controller is extremely flat, compact, is usb rechargeable, and can be soldered to. And unlike anything else I have seen it supports the Bluetooth USB HID Keyboard, HID Gamepad, and the Serial Port profile for IOS/Android devices and the mode is software selectable. The on/off is also a soft switch. It makes a GREAT Bluetooth module for a DIY gamepad, the next cheapest I have seen is the $20 board at sparkfun + $20 HID Gamepad firmware license, and that doesn't have a battery or charging circuit built in. So you may want to consider that for making your pads wireless, you could probably build it into the pad without even increasing the thickness.

There's not exactly a right answer, since everyone has a different play style/preferences. For me, I look for the following:

1. Ventilation: Make sure the shoes can breathe inside, otherwise you will get sweaty feet that will chafe/smell.
   
2. Heel size: A giant heel will possibly get in the way with crossovers, or will get stuck on brackets. Smaller = better IMO.
   
3. Bounce: Wearing shoes with no bounce can make fast patterns more difficult and more stamina-draining. You want something that rebounds nicely.
   
4. Feedback: This kind of goes hand-in-hand with bounce, as you're usually prioritizing one over the other. Running shoes are usually designed to absorb impact and have a great bounce. However, for a game that relies on precise timing, too much absorption can greatly reduce how you feel your steps.
   
5. Fit: I wear a size down for my DDR shoes. Having a slightly tighter fit keeps my feet from sliding around inside.
   
6. Sole: You want something that isn't too textured. Harsh textures will be more likely to get caught on brackets. If you get something too smooth, you'll be sliding around like mad.
   
   As for specifics, some people like Nike Free Runs, but I find them to be too squishy, and the heel to be too big.
   https://www.amazon.com/Nike-942838-001-Black-Running-Sneakers/dp/B005DNKHD4
   
   Nike Reacts are better, IMO.
   https://www.amazon.com/Nike-Flyknit-Running-Black-Pure-Platinum/dp/B07QHM9NKW/
   
   I'm currently trying a pair of Crocs here:
   https://www.amazon.com/Crocs-Mens-LiteRide-Pacer-white/dp/B074F76RHB/ref=asc_df_B074F76RHB
   
   But my previous favorite were a pair of these:
   https://www.scheels.com/p/mens-jordan-88-racer-running-shoes/7843-AV1200.html
   
   Found them at the Nike outlet for under $40. Small heel, good feedback, but ventilation sucks.

I think you are going to have to make your own. Here's some links from a comment I made from a year or two ago:

Hey! Here is a guide that will tell you everything you need to do and it doesn't require any electronics knowledge at all: http://www.stepmania.com/forums/input-adapters-and-controllers/show/5493

I made two of these and they work great. With the pinout, you're pretty much set.

The only thing that I needed to purchase that the guide was not 100% on were ferrite cores - I recommend you getting these. They are little cylindrical clasps you put on to wires that help with interference. All parts linked below:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FBVIJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Gino-Suppressor-Ferrite-Filters-a12071000ux1058/dp/B009ENG6TI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1474499132&sr=8-6&keywords=ferrite+core

edit: here is the pinout for the cobalt flux http://pinouts.ru/Game/cobalt_flux_pinout.shtml

Nice on being able to keep that pad! I recently was able to get a Cobalt Flux as well so I was in the same spot you were. The Cobalt Flux should have a control box attached like here. Since there are both PS2 and Xbox ports, you can either get a PS2 adapter or an Xbox adapter. If you want to go the PS2 route you can get a Super Joy Box 3 Pro adapter. Personally I went the Xbox route. For the Xbox port, I bought 2 cables. An Xbox breakaway cable, and a Xbox Controller to PC USB adapter. These have worked like a charm for me. It doesn't have to be these exact ones but these are just the ones I used. I'm not too sure on the specifics of lag but it operates fairly well for me. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info!

With regards to

1. I don't quite have that budget (yet, saving up), what where the places you think would be easiest to save money in the short term that could be added on at a later date? I remember building this pad back in 2004 (I still have it and it still works! Though I busted a wire on it somehow last week, sorting out fixing it atm) for around $150, I suppose it has less metal on it though (and perhaps cheaper wood?)
   
   
2. I'm thinking to use an Arduino Leonardo for my board, as I've seen other tutorials for that, I feel like it might have more flexibility with wiring up LEDs, and they're about as expensive. For those curious, see this article about incorporating it into a pad, this github project for programming the Leonardo, and this link to amazon to buy one (it's a knock-off but it's hella cheap and should work fine).
   
   
3. My thought for build doubles is to have two pads and them be able to separate (for transportation / giving two players space) but also "lock together". I'm debating how to pull that off with that "center section" though: perhaps have a lip on opposite edges (one over and one under)? perhaps with something along the exterior?

Check EBay/Craigslist for RedOctane pads. Still the best foam inserts, and newer ones have USB connectors. No idea whether that will work with the Wii or not, but the Wii does have USB ports...

If the RedOctanes are too pricey, then I'd go with something Konami branded. Those are generally of high quality.

My friends and I wear out pads too damn fast, and we've been unable to find RedOctanes lately, so we've taken to buying this set off Amazon and duct taping it over the RedOctanes. Works surprisingly well with some PS2-USB adapters and a custom AutoHotkey script to support more than two arrows at once. Obviously won't work for the Wii, though...

The only foam pads I've owned are DDR Game Energy pads. My friends got Ignition pads (Red Octane's foam pads) before I got my DDRGame Energy but they retailed at 99 USD and died after less than a year while mine lasted far longer. The Ignition pads I'm seeing online are a later version (for what that's worth) but they look difficult to get, especially new.

As for sourcing other foam pads, you can get cheaper foam pads like this but I've heard they are terrible because the foam doesn't provide enough support as it is open cell. To my knowledge the Energy is the best value for a foam pad. I'm somewhat surprised yours only lasted for 6 months as mine is going on 7 years only with about 3 years of heavy use on it and still out performs new softpads.

Modded softpads or custom wood/plastic may serve you better long term if you are looking for slightly cheaper or slightly more expensive options.

Hi. This sub isn't visited by many japanese players but hopefully I can point you towards the right direction. First, look to /r/otoge, the japanese language rhythm game subreddit. Keep in mind even then, japanese netizen turnout is very low on reddit.

You're gonna wanna have a chat with Aaron Tokunaga, pretty much the english resource for the japanese scene. Dude quite literally wrote the book on the DDR scene. You can email him at [email protected]

You might also want to get in touch with Bemanistyle's Japan correspondent, Paul. You can email him at [email protected]

let the amazing amazon reviews commence!

Hey. I have the same pad. My control box broke, so I have mucked around with this quite a bit. (removed control box, and I am using the insides of a PS controller for inputs)

I used some wire cutters and cut around the connector in the front, so I was able to get into my pad that way, I will share what I learned, so it will be easier for you.

the wires all just go to the front of the dance pad, to the 15 pin connector.
there are two wires for each panel, a ground and a signal. When they connect it registers as a press.

Do not use a normal VGA cable to connect the pad to the box (or anything else), as normal VGA cables can connect some of the pins used for signal to ground.

I used something like this for the breakout of the pins:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014L9XAGG

These are the pins:

1. • (unused)
     
2. Down panel signal (purple)
   
3. Up panel signal (green)
   
4. -
   
5. Right panel signal (white)
   
6. Left panel signal (yellow)
   
7. -
   
8. Ground (This has a wire going to every panel, and is soldered together behind the 15-pin connector.)
   
9. -
   
10. "A" panel signal (black)
    
11. "B" panel signal (red)
    
12. -
    
13. -
    
14. -
    
15. -
    
    
    Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions.

Mats like that slide around too much on harder songs -- but you can fix that problem by duct-taping em to a spiked office mat (assuming you're playing on carpet). That kind of setup works great across all difficulties, although you'll need to get a new DDR mat every 4-8 months since those soft mats wear out quickly.

I'm pretty sure that got assembled wrong. http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Metal-Arcade-Dance-Handle-PC/dp/B000IBS78S/ref=pd_sim_sbs_vg_1

I thought that was how they are branded in the UK with the stay cool logo.

Went by these type of adverts, https://www.amazon.com/Konami-Stay-Cool-Non-Slip-Dance-Pad/dp/B004HJT63M

I'm in the same boat, I recently started looking because I wanted to get back into it. I couldn't find anything for the latest version of consoles, so I ended up getting the Wii version. DDR2 is the highest rated on Amazon, and there's a bundle for $50: http://www.amazon.com/DanceDanceRevolution-II-Bundle-Nintendo-Wii/dp/B0050SVFWE/.

Have at it: Dance Dance Revolution X2 Bundle - PlayStation 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DC8GJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LHPSDb5D43PDM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IBOGII/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can see the patterns in judgement on the graph in u/pieman445's comment. There's gaps where you simply can't hit the arrow. It could lead to lost steps or late judgements even though you stepped on time. I switched over to a teensy microcontroller and it completely eliminated the problem