(Part 2) Top products from r/Fios

There's another way you can go that's even better, but if you're just in an apartment it's not really necessary. If you move into a house later on, it's absolutely the best way to do things.

To understand this, you need to understand that what you think of as a "wireless router" is actually three devices combined into one: router, switch, and access point. The router moves data traffic back and forth between different networks, allows multiple devices to share the single IP address that your ISP gives you, blocks unwanted internet traffic from reaching your network, and assigns IP addresses to devices on your network. The switch is what gives you the four Ethernet ports on the back, it moves data around within a network by keeping track of what's connected to each port and only sending data it receives to the correct port. It's actually a six-port switch, the other two ports are internally connected to the router and access point. The access point is the part that does Wi-Fi, it's the "wireless" part of a "wireless router".

So, what you should do is pretty simple now that you know this. Instead of getting a "wireless router", you can get your router, switch, and access point separately. This has three big advantages. Each device can do its job better as it doesn't need to do two others as well, you can put them in different places that are ideal for the function of each device, and if you need to replace one of them, you can keep the others.

For example, this is a router. You'd connect its WAN port to the modem or ONT, and the LAN port to a switch, such as this. You'd connect any Ethernet devices to the switch as well. Lastly, you'd get an access point and connect it to a PoE port on the switch, which will allow the switch to power the AP through the Ethernet cable. This can be expanded as far as you need it. Need Ethernet ports elsewhere? Connect another switch to the first one. Need Wi-Fi there as well? Connect another AP to the second switch. You get the idea. The only downside to all this is that everything needs to be connected with Ethernet cables, so it's not really feasible for an apartment.

I have a Cisco RV325 behind the Verizon Quantum. I do this to isolate my home network from ports open on the Quantum that I cannot close. In addition, Verizon is capable of looking at any network connections behind their router - log into your Verizon account and view your Quantum router password for instance. Verizon has the ability for their IT people to tweak the QoS, wireless, and other parameters at will.

By isolating my internal network with the RV325, I gain a couple of advantages: (1) I can have vlans and whatever I want behind my own router (the Quantum does not support vlans); (2) If my network goes down (because I borked it doing some upgrades), I don't interfere with SHMBO TV watching; (3) the dual wan ports on the RV325 allow me to use a different service should Verizon's network go down (including the switchover to a USB LTE modem); and (4) I have two different VPN servers on the RV325 that I can use for external connections.

I know that I could use the RV325 in place of the Quantum, but I made the choice to do it this way to keep Verizon happy. The RV325 is touted as 800MHz WAN to LAN throughput which I understand is better than the Quantum.

You should check with Verizon to find out why their router/network setup is having slowness issues.

Ah I see. The ONT is the box that they installed in my home, right? That's in my basement (I think), so does that mean I would need to hook up an ethernet cable from that to my router? There's an ethernet port on the same coax outlet where the coaxial cable that connects to my current rented verizon cable is. Could that possibly also be connected to the ONT too? I guess only way to find out is to try it right? xD

Also, if you don't mind me asking (sorry for all the questions), assuming I have that the ONT stuff all set, I currently have this TP-LINK router that I was recommended by a friend. Would it be better to get this adpater or would this cheaper one work just as fine?

I don't know if this helps, but I wanted to be pro-active prevent this from being an issue. I wired my house with multiple RG6 (CAT6 as well) and all that is ran back to a central point. As it was, I needed to have a quality splitter to share an OTA antenna between TVs (or cable should I every have it.) Instead I bought an amplifier splitter. This one is rated from 5-1000mhz. It's working for me, but also isn't remotely even needed as I only have it routed to 1 output but eventually will have 2 more. So if it truly helps, I just don't know yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WDR94U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

People are going to laugh at you for asking, but this isn’t a dumb question. It’s a reasonable issue. Here is the real answer:

It’s not toslink, but it’s close.

Assuming you are able to reach the actual fiber connector, you will need a SC-APC single mode fiber and coupler.

I would recommend waiting until they finish the install and you can verify you can access the fiber connector. You said you can see the jack, so it is possible that you are looking at an SC fiber port already? I would need a photo to verify for you.

I’ve done the heavy lifting for you:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiber-Optic-Adapter-Single-Simplex/dp/B00THNIEV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500072067&sr=8-1&keywords=sc+apc+coupler

https://www.amazon.com/15M-Singlemode-Simplex-Fiber-Optic/dp/B0084V9A26/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1500071945&sr=8-7&keywords=Sc+fiber+15M

The fiber is not particularly strong, so it will need protected if it’s going to get chewed on or bent somehow. That said it is cheap enough that you can probably just risk it. The couplers are only sold in 5 packs due to how cheap they are.

Again, I would wait until the install is complete. Moving the ONT isn’t usually needed, as they can either do coax or ethernet cable out of it. But if you want that box moved, the solution I gave you will work.

Exact same thing happened to me. Issue we had was our COAX splitters. We replaced any old splitters (i'm talking 5-10 y/o) with ones specifically meant for 2-way MoCA like these. Worked like a charm. Hopefully our root causes are similar!

> AC1750

Hey there - so if I want to buy my own router and have signed up for FIOS TV + the gigabit internet, is this the one I should buy? Thank you!

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1750-Gigabit-Router-compatible/dp/B00Z0V2NQ8

There is no way to add poe to the Verizon router. Simplest solution Is to buy a switch which supports 4-6 poe Ethernet connections plus one extra port to connect it to your router.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Lifetime-Protection-GS108PEv3/dp/B00M1C03U2

Edit: There are poe injectors that work per individual Ethernet connection so technically you could use the fios router and get poe. That would be extremely inefficient though compared to a poe switch.

There are HD Antennas. I wonder if that'd help you. There are a couple of brands (here's Amazon's) - I don't know which is better, but I know people always mention these in their "cutting the cord" discussions.

I have the same question I believe. I am moving into a brand new complex (just built). I would have this router https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8NCVX4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 . I am internet-only. Everyone is talking about ONT. Does it matter where this ONT is and could Verizon know if I called them?

I think this is the device that allows you to use google voice number for a land line phone:
https://www.amazon.com/OBi200-1-Port-Adapter-Support-Service/dp/B00BUV7C9A

This is what I have: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ELA0SS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi - in similar boat (don't want to buy Fios router), and am only looking at the 100/100 Mbps Internet deal currently available ($39.99/month).

This is the router I currently have: https://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Router-150-Mbps/dp/B0044YU60M

It should work with Fios as long as it has an Ethernet connection, correct?