Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Nice bike! And welcome to the club haha

I prefer these kind of straps as they provide a bit more support and makes you feel more secure. *you’ll need pedals with wider slots that are big enough for the straps to fit through.

If you end up sticking with fixed gear, tear that brake off, and decide to ‘clip in,’ I’d highly recommend getting Speedplay Frog cleats/pedals and shoes, i have DZR shoes and I few even safer using these than I do the straps. Plus, pulling up with one leg and cranking down with the other gets you zoomin.

Ok anyway stick with it and have fun!
Don’t skid your tires too often or you’ll be spending a l out of $$$

The biggest difference between cranksets is roundness, a more expensive crank is going to be rounder which means there's a smaller difference in chain tension which means it "absorbs" less energy is more silent. Expensive cranksets are also stiffer, but unless you're putting out 3000 watt that isn't really an issue.

That conversion kit looks like a bad idea, it's a bunch of the cheapest components being marketed as "hip".

They're called riser bars, as long as you find a bar with same diameter (probably 25.4 or 26 mm on older road bikes) you can keep the stem and headset.

Park makes super nice tools, and that stand is a great choice. But I'd really consider buying tools along the ride, instead of shelling out big time for this huge set. Since you are a tool guy you probably already have a good part of those wrenches and keys, so it'd be better to move a bit of that budget towards your bike.

For this conversion you'll need these tools:

• Chain whip
  
  
• Pedal wrench
  
  
• Chain tool
  
  
• Tire levers
  
  
• Crank puller
  
  
• Chain cleaner
  
  
• Bottom bracket tool
  
  This totals about half of what you'd pay for the complete set, so I'd go for the complete set if you need all the wrenches, but otherwise you can put an extra $100 into your conversion.

I wouldn't get a brooks. They are pricey because they become super comfortable after some use, but the downside is that they are theft magnets. If you get one, lock your saddle with a cable, or take it in with you, but these things go missing on my campus all the time. I'd just ride the stock for a while, when you want to upgrade, go into your LBS and nab one from them.




As for locks, U-lock+Cable in conjunction will be best. If you pick one, do a u-lock. Kryptonite is well-recommended. They have a few models:

The New York is the big boy, nigh indestructible lock. But probably not necessary for a windsor the hour.

Here's what I use, but I sort of regret it. It feels cheaper (because it was cheaper) than other kryptonite locks I've used. The lock itself is fine, but I have trouble with my key after a few months of use (have to jiggle it around for a bit for it to disengage). If you're on a campus or in a smaller town, it'd be fine.

Just ordered this. My buddy has one and it's brilliant. Super light and small (smallness is actually a benefit as far as security). Can fit in your back pocket.

Also: http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

It depends, the single strap works for the single clips like this

The double strap leather & clips would go something like this & this

I prefer how double straps feel & if one breaks you have a slight safeguard.


Take off the stickers on your wheels if you're satisfied with the ride. Have fun play around with new part/colors. See if you can do some component swapping locally.

My girlfriend bought me One Gear and I really like it. It is clearly aimed at the absolute beginner but the bike porn is lovely and it is laid out really well.

I went with these levers and they worked out great! No cutting required. 👌🏽

Specs:
--------
Part| Component
---|---
Frame| 2012 Jamis Sputnik Reynolds 520
Fork / Headset| Excel Curved Fork / Stock Alloy
Crankset / Bottom Bracket| Sugino RD2 / Sugino
Pedals| MKS Sylvan Track
Drivetrain / Cog / Chainring / Chain| 19t Surly Cog / 48t Sugino Chainring / KMC Z410
Handlebars / Stem| Nitto Noodle / Thomson Elite
Saddle / Seatpost| Brooks B17 / Velo Orange Grand Cru
Brakes| Tektro R317 long reach forged alloy dual-pivot caliper with Tektro RL-567 top mount brake lever
Front Wheel / Hub / Tire| Sun M13 / Formula / Panaracer Pasela
Rear Wheel / Hub / Tire| Sun M13 / Formula / Panaracer Pasela
Accessories | Thomson Top Cap / Dura Ace Lockring / MKS Toe Clips / Zefal Toe Straps / Fizik Microtex Bar Tape/ Surly Tuggnut / Crane Japan Headset Bell

^(^^Not ^^quite ^^bored ^^enough ^^to ^^look ^^for ^^the ^^other ^^parts...)

My winter beater frame is a Steamroller and I live in Edmonton (so I know shit weather). Mostly you can get by on regular tires if you want just by letting out some pressure. But if you want something that plows through it all (blizzard/rutted ice friendly tires) I would really recommend Nokian 32c studded tires. It's a low stud count, with the studs off the center of the tire so if there is some bare spots of pavement you won't be scraping the metal on the road. They are great for traction/peace of mind but not bulky at all. They've been great for me as a commuter and courier.

I have these on my bike, and they're pretty good.

the park tools chainwhip (SR-18 for 1/8th inch) is good, but doesn't have a lockring tool. I have one of these that's OK.

It's a 2 bedroom apartment shared with my wife. We both have beds so one will be used as our bedroom and one as a guest room. The apartment is fairly large with an open living room & dining room space. We have a fairly small couch, entertainment center and dining room table. We won't have a garage or outside storage. Hope that helps a little better. I was looking at the this stand but not sure I want to have 3 or 4 of them.

I mean.... it very well could be, but they also make tape meant to look like that (this being very similar to Ops). You can get all kinds of colours. Generally called "splash bar tape"

My current set up.

MKS-GR9 Pedals- $22 http://www.amazon.com/MKS-GR-9-Platform-Pedals-Silver/dp/B001GSMRQ0

MKS Double toe clips- $28 http://store.somafab.com/mkstoecldoga.html

Cadence Double straps- $54 http://www.citygrounds.com/cadence/cadence-double-toe-straps-175

Other nice items worth considering.
> Straps: Toshi doubles, All city doubles.

> Clips/Cages: SOMA

Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/Weanas-SuperSuede-Bicycle-Handle-Mixed-Color/dp/B00K0BPPN6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1549339759&sr=8-13&keywords=bar+tape

I'm sure the Feather and most fixed gear bikes come as square tapered so correct me if I am wrong, but both the crankset you want are square-tapered.

If you get either the Sugino or the Campagnolo, you have to get the correct bottom bracket spindle length so you have a straight chain line (i.e. the chain runs parallel to the frame's body). They will usually tell you how long the spindle length should run for example in this website it tells you to have a spindle length of 109-110mm. So if your current bottom bracket has the same length, then you don't need to buy a new one. All you need is some elbow grease and these two 1 and 2 tools and you'll have your new crank installed.

This is what a saddle mount looks like. A standard water bottle cage fits just fine.

Thanks! They're Weanas Vex Gel SuperSuede Handle Bar Tape

you can't use regular chain rings from geared bikes because they were designed for the chain to derail easier rather than harder. look for 1/8 chainrings.
something like this with the 1/2 x 1/8" dimensions
http://www.amazon.com/Sugino-46t-Chainring-130mm-Black/dp/B001GSOEZW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1405701973&sr=8-8&keywords=single+speed+chainring

I have the same ones, they're Power Grips. They're really nice.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Grips-Sport-Pedal-Strap/dp/B001FYGGLC

Same. Most days I lock up with a Kryptonite Evo Mini. If I need more security, I use a Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit Mini.

I like this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNX4Y8?cache=a895fb864a9006d1dc999ea582d9fd21&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1405371530&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4. It's less than $15 and lets you carry 1 or 2 bottles

This may not be as extensive as other books on the subject, but I think it's worth mentioning here, since it specifically teaches you how to convert an old bike into a fixie. It also includes nice/artsy pictures of fixies.

[Here's] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BW3HM8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) some pedals that I purchased recently. They're probably on the lower end of pedals out there, but they've worked well for me so far.

I can tell you the Sunlite combo barely gets the job done. The lockring tool worked fine, however, I had to rotafix the cog off due to the tool not having enough leverage even with a 17mm wrench hooked on the end.

If you're planning on switching cogs a lot, I would shell out for some Park Tools.

No problem. Amazon Prime is my jam.

If you aren't riding in bad weather, it won't matter much. But I am going to leave this alternate suggestion here anyway.

Just realized i completely forgot to mention the bike.

It's a 2014 Raleigh Rush Hour. It's stock except for the pedals and straps.

The rear bottle-cage holder is this

2010 Langsters come with a 42t chainring. It was the first thing I upgraded.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GSOEZW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use the Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit through my front wheel and frame, then loop this cable into itself through my saddle and back wheel and lock the end up in the U-Lock.

~$70 for a bigger piece of mind.

would this be all I would need to buy for straps? Or would I need to make two orders of them?

The pedal and strap come together as an integral system. http://www.amazon.com/Power-Grips-Sport-Pedal-Strap/dp/B001FYGGLC

Metal are going to look nicer and are generally more durable. I don't think you can go wrong with these [Origin 8] (http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Double-Toe-Clip-Black/dp/B002MKFOZW/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y) clips. I have had a few pairs of them on different bikes. Although I plastic clips do tend to tear up your shoes less.

Wouldn't something like this be easier?

Tacx Behind the Saddle Water Bottle Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NNX4Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IdRdBbJ7437GT

I googled SPDs and these are not SPDs. They are http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Ultralight-Pedals-Straps-Silver/dp/B002BW3HM8

I told my mom I was looking at getting new pedals to replace the stock pedals and she just went out and got these from a LBS. I really liked the fit and the fact that the pedal itself had a lot of grip even without the straps but it looks like they were not of the greatest quality. I guess I'll try what you said about about repacking the pedal but when I screwed it back onto the spindle this morning there looked to be plenty of grease still on the spindle...

https://www.amazon.com/Nokian-Hakkeplitta-A10-700-Studs/dp/B002P6BOF2

There is no rubbing whatsoever, I am currently running them at 60psi.

>This to my knowledge is the only thing that's going to work. I use one on my drop bar near the stem so its out of the way. You can also look cooler, ditch the brake, and buy more tires and shoes. Up to you! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N8V20D2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey guys,

I'm currently using double toe straps on my bike, similar to these.

Recently, I've been having trouble getting my right foot into the second strap. When I flick the pedal, my foot gets into the first strap, but not the second. I think it is due to the strap being at an awkward angle (it isn't round, but is slightly flattened for some reason). I've tried loosening it, but it didn't help.

Any idea on how to round out the strap? Or any other solutions?