(Part 3) Top products from r/FordFocus

In my opinion, $800 for a roof rack isn't a great investment for a college student; at least for me it wasn't. I'd just check craigslist/ebay regularly for a nice used one. I agree those things are way too expensive. I wanted one for my bike when I had my Focus, but ended up installing a hitch for about $100 from Amazon and a nice used Yakima hitch bike rack. They make some decent cargo racks that can be used on a hitch as well. I'd say if you're handy with a wrench and you have the time, pick up a nice Curt hitch and a decent cargo rack for a fraction of the cost. Just keep in mind there are 2 standard size hitches and the Focus hitch is the smaller size.

From my other post when i got mine.

Got this hitch and this rack.

Hitch went on pretty easy you just have to keep in mind that the 3rd frame bolt on both side either need a flat ground on each side of the bolt head in order to fit through the frame hole or the access hole in the frame needs widened out a little. I ground the bolt heads a little since i didn't want to damage the paint by grinding on the frame.

Looks like the rust is between the two pieces of metal. You might get away with sandblasting that real good and then hitting it with some rust reformer. That'll turn your rust into a dark primer. Works pretty well for body rust. I'm unsure how it would do squeezing between two panels.

I'm not sure how the tweeters come out because I haven't changed my speakers over yet. In shaa Allah. But I do have a fairly high end set of Polk audio woofers and tweeters with crossover so you're not crazy for going that route. I've seen people wire in the mini amps like the one made by alpine which I also have.

So I'm pretty sure it's possible to wire in all that stuff. These are the speakers I have:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0R6LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465262462&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=polk+audio+6.5+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41lSW9Ti-gL&ref=plSrch

Page 295 of the 2014 manual (version 3):

WW-2802 (driver side) /
WW-2803 (passenger side)

If you had a hatch, your blade part number would be WW-1204. If you have a 2015 hatch the two front blades are the same model, the hatch model is WW-1295.

Those are Motorcraft part numbers.

Amazon will sell you the driver side blade for $12.10 with free shipping, http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WW-2802-Wiper-Blade/dp/B0080DVLJ8/

the passenger side for $14.76 with free shipping, http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WW-2803-Wiper-Blade/dp/B0080DVMJ2/

the hatch blade is $15.42 with Prime, http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WW-1204-Wiper-Blade/dp/B0080DVGKC/

I used this one in mine

http://smile.amazon.com/Circuit-function-Bussmann-ATM-10-ATM-15/dp/B007D5DB88?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

I fit perfectly and is powering my dash cam now in my '14.

Tint I would definitely recommend a professional for sure, I know places around me do it relatively "cheap" for 150-160 and a lifetime warranty.

Window switches no idea, won't even bother commenting.

Sub is not very difficult. I added mine with the stock headunit w/sync w/o nav or MFT. It costs about 20 dollars for a LOC and a remote turn on switch.

Wiring harness isn't needed as I just used vampire clips (absolutely no idea what they're called all I know is they just clip into existing wires without splicing, they work perfect.)

I found a wiring diagram online for my particular model of HU and spliced into the two right and left sides of the speaker line outs and hooked it up the LOC and found a ant out turn on on the radio that would trigger the 12v out when the car would turn on and turn off when the car turned off.

It is my understanding there is an all in one however I don't know which one it is and I'll just link the two I used. I know what I did worked flawlessly and has for the past 8 or so months.

Obviously after that you'll need a wiring harness and sub/amp whatever else. I have found that high volume levels 20+ tend to cut the sub out completely and I'm not sure if it has to do with the HU doing that or my set up. My guess would be the stock HU doing that to try and attempt to save the stock speakers.

Remote turn on module: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-4-Remote-Turn-on-Module/dp/B0002J22BE/


LOC converter: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

$130.10 and free shipping with Amazon Prime.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CNNLRY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

You could also just gut the muffler you have now, though that requires a bit of work and you may not have the tools.

Another option is to put in a fake / straight / pass-through "muffler" that does nothing whatsoever. $30 from Amazon: https://amazon.com/TOTALFLOW-31224-Straight-Through-Performance/dp/B07F3YS95Y

Note: I don't know if that particular one fits, but you get the idea. I'm sure there are other options that just slide over the exhaust pipe and are even less useful in terms of sound reduction.

https://amazon.com/Dynomax-24250-Race-Bullet-Muffler/dp/B007ISYE1I

https://amazon.com/Muffler-AUTOSAVER88-Universal-Stainless-Exhaust/dp/B07BHMP1Z8

https://amazon.com/Muffler-AUTOSAVER88-Universal-Stainless-Exhaust/dp/B07BHKVG74

And to think i was going to get this, that shark fin is totally interesting now.

I would just invest the 20 bucks on a Bluetooth dongle. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS. I've used that one for a few years now.

I use the Thule roof bar system on my 2016 focus using the following parts:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B9DAY80/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001COIX34/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007PBRU5K/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item

This is my current filter

Bapmic BM5Z-5844210-AB Rear Roof Spoiler Wing ST Style for Ford Focus 2012-2018 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TJFLL62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gv9ODbB6D0CD2

I have experience with this! I'm assuming you're installing a double DIN radio? You're going to need this dash kit and install it. I used the same exact kit and my car and it's fine. the center vents are loose though so keep an eye on that.

I had water spots on my hood for a while and I finally bought this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BFW0EO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rk2czbGMD72M4 I used it multiple times and scrubbed the crap out of it and a majority of it came out.

Yes, 3 out of 4 were blown. And the driver's side strut might as well been stanced, it hit a pothole so hard, it belt the hub assembly and the actual strut creating negative camber. But its not like its an air ride suspension, broken shocks and struts should only effect travel over speed bumps.

While I know the shocks were blown, I still hated its height, it couldn't even make it over any speed bump without scrapping, and thats going slow and angling it correctly. Also the downpipe still has a few good shots on it as well.

If I was ever going to swap it again, I would totally go with SVT suspension kit. I have seen them for $250 as well. Its a very doable 1/2in drop.