(Part 2) Top products from r/HVAC

You could do the bath fan idea but with a much more powerful fan. Something like this that vents from the top floor to the outside, in combination with some opened windows, would probably help quite a bit -- as long as there is cool (and not too humid for your tastes) night time air available, and you don't mind leaving windows open for hours. But it's kind of a hack, and if you could tweak your existing ducts to work better, that would be more ideal and wouldn't require messing with windows and whatnot every night.

The EPA is the agency that requires any technician who handles CFC and HCFC refrigerants to be certified. There are 3 levels: type I, II, and III + the core. You need to pass the core and at least one of the 3 levels to get certified. If you pass all 3, you get a universal certification and can pretty much work on anything. The exam itself is issued by approved vendors and proctored at numerous schools and supply houses. You will probably need to get it at some point, but without at least some experience/knowledge in the field, it may be a bit difficult to understand. You can always find/purchase a study guide and take a crack at it.

There are numerous ways to enter the field. Since you have some sales/customer service experience, you might try getting a job at a supply house. This will expose you to what the industry is like. You can also see if they might have any leads for contractors looking for laborers or apprentices.

You also have to keep in mind that this is a pretty diverse field. What are you interested in? Residential HVAC? Commercial refrigeration? Industrial maintenance? Automotive? Appliance repair?

I recommend picking up a copy of Modern Refrigeration and Air Conditioning. It is pretty much the defacto standard textbook for the trade. Good luck!

You're welcome.

I had a thought - buy one of these anemometers and compare the airflow of your vents to those in your friends unit. If there is a significant difference, it can help highlight the issue.

This tool was how I discovered the airflow in my old house was messed up - my friends house literally had 100x the airflow from his registers and pretty much the same system and layout. Read the manual and pay attention to the little x10 and x100 indicators when you do this.

I have been using the Fieldpiece probes connected with the measure quick app. The range on the FP probes is about 200 ft. I hear the gen 2 Testo probes have much better range as well. The app will give you complete diagnostic of the system and a really nice PDF printout of the job when you're done. A lot of customers love when you can say "this is what I see your system doing" and then you can show them live readings and how far off target their system.

As far as charging get one of these. https://www.trutechtools.com/CTEE14

Get some hoses with ball valves for charging and you're good to go.

I also use a pair of these for systems that don't have much space by the ports.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_XgcvDbAAFS20P

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This is how another guys does it for a visual.

https://youtu.be/TrW7xpGMdFo

You oil and beat to get your motor off? Ok that did not sound right lol but anyways, I would suggest that you invest in a wheel puller.

https://www.amazon.com/Blade-Wheel-Puller-Original-Version/dp/B001CGFQDW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1PF6TH183QH2Z&keywords=hvac+wheel+puller&qid=1565732781&s=gateway&sprefix=hvac+wheel%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-3

I use one all the time and I never have any troubles. It is like God blesses me every time I have to pull a motor off.

https://www.amazon.com/Zebra-Instruments-X13PR-EVERGREEN-Protection/dp/B00H874L1M

Great upsell item that’s pretty cheap and can save your client a lot of money.

If the little "flags" still exist and are still welded onto the pins that exit the compressor, then get new heavy duty fast-on connectors for the wire and push the fast-on onto the flag.

If the flags are gone, get rescue terminals like this:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Qwik-Products-QT2810-3-Terminal-Repair-Lugs-Bag-10-AWG-2-ft-Leads-w-Nut?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpavpBRDQARIsAPfTwixfDxNIXocFiCotNK0ZcfvFb-J5uviFr9kmSy7qe7TNVXjNGe6BRK8aAnBKEALw_wcB

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC

Also, check Ebay for (possibly) better prices.

If you want to get going sooner, you can use tie wire to temporarily secure the electrical wire to the compressor terminal.

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-mechanics-wire-97773.html

i'm looking at this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XNNYMU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

and:

http://www.amazon.com/Active-Air-720-Inline-8-Inch/dp/B002JQ4K1I/

would these be considered good quality? or do i need to spend roughly twice as much?

thanks for the info.

Yes. I think that your motor is a constant torque motor.

The replacement motor is very expensive. You might use model and serial number of your unit to look up the correct motor.

You might also see if you can find a motor shop and see if they can cross that to a cheaper motor.


Edit:

I found a cheaper motor that says it is a replacement for your motor here:

OEM Upgraded Carrier Bryant Payne 1/4 HP 230v Condenser Fan Motor HC39GE237 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOHHLR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2v4mDbHWV047D

Look at the top of the page for cheaper motors.

Need to adjust the air vents, not necessarily the main shutoff valve. The air vent releases air in the radiator, allowing the steam in. If you slow down this rate of release you slow down how fast the steam (heat) gets to the radiator. I'd recommend this book if you plan on staying at this home for a better understanding on how this heat system works: We Got Steam Heat! https://www.amazon.com/dp/0974396001/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_CCQQwbFQDG99S

Yeah look for idronics, you can request copies but they are all probably online. They also have monthly webinars that get put on YouTube eventually.

Another good read would be https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1428335153

Also anything by Dan Holohan

Use something like Honeywell's Aube RC840T-120 and you can connect any low-voltage thermostat to control that fan.

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOHHLR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2v4mDbHWV047D

You are an incredible person!!

It is okay that the one you sent is 1/4HP, and the one I have is 1/5?

edit: are HC38GR239 and HC38GR237 cross compatible?

I really cannot express how appreciative I am of your help.

http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Hydronic-Heating-Residential-Commercial/dp/1428335153

this is a good one for hydronics. also can't go wrong with keeping a copy of pumping away and primary secondary pumping made easy

http://www.amazon.com/Primary-Secondary-Pumping-Made-Easy-Holohan/dp/0974396079

This book is all you really need to be honest

Like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-CT53K1006-E1-Millivolt-Thermostat/dp/B000KFCL5C

Will a millivolt thermostat work with 110V?

Same thing mine did. Looks like you may have the same igniter. Bryant/carrier etc. It's a pretty universal igniter.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3CDPLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If its not the same, you should be able to Google the right one using your unit's model#.

If it's the same one, only one screw holds it to the bottom of the burner assembly.

Obviously, I should tell you that only qualified individuals should work on a gas furnace. BUT, if you decide to look into replacing the igniter yourself, it's not too hard. Unplug electrical power. Shut off the gas at the hard line. I like to wait a few minutes after that. The igniter has a molex-type connector that should wiggle off. One small screw holds the igniter's plate in, and the igniter tips and slides out.

You might want to do this before ordering a replacement. Inspect the element for imperfections and burned spots. If any exist, it's probably bad.

To reinstall, do the same in reverse. I like to take a few pics in case I had to move or remove anything else to get to it.

If you don’t have the proper tools to braze, these would be a much cheaper and easier option for you.

Supco BPV31 Bullet Piercing Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8J3MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p9gRDbMD92GKC

You can use one of these with a cheap thermostat.

I personally have a relay tied into my smart house to control my basement baseboard heat.

http://www.amazon.com/Guide-NATE-Certification-Exams-Edition/dp/0132319705

This pretty much covers everything

Also depending on where you are you may be able to find a guy in your area that will do a crash coarse then give your test.

You need new wires. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC

As far as contactor not energizing it might be another issue but the compreasor should run if you push contactor in manually. It won't start with those burned wires though. If anything you can bypass the board u till you get a replacement.

Replace that contactor they are not expensive. When the contacts inside go bad it causes the terminals to get very hot causing corrosion and melting of the wire's jacket. With that being said also fix the red wire it should not have that much copper exposed.
Contactors are one of the most common repairs I find and also the easiest to fix.
Make sure the one I linked is the correct amperage and coil voltage. 30amp 24VAC is the most common for residential

Casement window air conditioner. They're a thing.

You're talking about window A/Cs like this, right?

Have you ever seen a portable with that feature?

Would be this one: https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Goodman-Gas-Valve-0151M00037S/dp/B06XH83DS6

This?

2B Smoke Candle, 60-Second, 8000 Cubic ft, 12-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVM45YL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sFWYDbT7D2B96

This is the module I was looking at getting. So this is an older style module then?

In that case, this is what I should look into getting, correct?

One last thing, should I also install a surge protector?

https://www.amazon.ca/Furnace-Surface-Replacement-Carrier-LH33ZS004/dp/B00E3CDPLM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539210563&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hot+surface+ignitor&dpPl=1&dpID=511UGaXJAIL&ref=plSrch

You need this

Supco BPV31 Bullet Piercing Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8J3MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ny8Kyb72996YJ

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PMA90-Anemometer-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B009TQ6ILQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407970259&sr=8-1&keywords=velometer

Supposedly ,the Kidde KN-Copp-B-LPM goes down to 11.

Yellow Jacket 93842 Mini Ball Valve (3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHaIDb22XPC3K

He’s talking about these. When I got my gauge set up I got theses with the built in valves.

Modern Refrigeration and Air Conditioning. https://www.amazon.ca/Modern-Refrigeration-Conditioning-Andrew-Althouse/dp/1590702808

fan relays are often installed on a circuit board.

it might be cheaper for you to find a local electronic repair company and have them replace the relay, rather than calling an hvac person out to look at the system. this assumes of course you can properly identify the relay as what has failed.

follow the wires from the fan.. you might find an open frame contractor, driven by a 24 vac relay. you can replace it yourself. here's what it might look like https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230A-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B003U7W3SM


if instead you find 5 wires leaving the fan motor and three of them run into three relays soldered on the circuit board. yes, i would replace those myself. you will still need to verify they have failed before wasting your time trying to find a compatible relay.

I should have looked first. :-(

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-CT53K1006-E1-Millivolt-Thermostat/dp/B000KFCL5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485367900&sr=8-1&keywords=thermostat+millivolt

They already have detectors that show a reading on an lcd display, they only sound off at 70, but they show levels that are lower.

http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-KN-COPP-B-LPM-Battery-Operated-Monoxide-Digital/dp/B004Y6V5CI/

I've ragged out that one. Now I use--- https://www.amazon.com/Sensible-Products-Ultimate-Blower-Puller/dp/B001CGFQDW

I've been sent back on too many other tech call backs because they shook the blower wheel off the shaft and ruined its balance.