(Part 2) Top products from r/HondaCB

If you haven't already, get the Clymer manual. I can't seem to find a Honda Service Manual, so this one will probably have to do.

Bike Bandit seems to have a good availability of parts for your carb. The gasket set looks cheap, as that's the most likely thing that'll need replacing first. Give the whole assembly a good cleaning and inspection.

Check for cracks and tolerances in both brakes and the chain, any looseness in the steering and wheel bearings, and pitting on the travel area of the fork tubes. Put some new fork oil in if the seals are ok (probably not, but who knows?).

Check for corrosion on electrical contacts (especially grounds) and sand them clean as required. Use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

There is a much bigger list of possibilities, but that's part of the fun of owning an older bike. You get to know it like the back of your hand and will feel ever so satisfied when you fix something and it actually works. The more complex the bike, the more rare this is in my situation.

Just get it running and stopping properly and ride the shit out of it, you stupid lucky bastard.

You should ask santa for an ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight. The large one. Pull out your entire wireharness and soak each cluster of connectors in a mix of LA Awesome and distilled water. They'll come out brand new. Swing it like an old sling shot to the the water out, then immediately hit the metal contacts inside the plastic connectors with deoxit d100L that'll keep the metal shiny. And soak the next chunk of connectors. If you need to rewrap the harness don't use electrical tape. Use self fusing silicon tape from harbor freight. I think its called super tape and its $4 for 10 feet x 1 inch. But it stretches so its more like 20+ feet. Don't over stretch it tho.

I'd probably spray and scrub the battery case with brake cleaner and a brush, then spray it with brake cleaner again.

Broken plastic connectors can be bought for cheap at 4into1, link is on the right side. You remove the metal connectors by using a very small flat head jeweler screw driver. Make sure all your connectors lock in together. Most people hate electronic work on bikes. But if you do it right its fun and easy.

The octane level of the gas should not affect the idle. You could try changing out the fuel but I'd bet there is some other issue. I had a '72 cb350 myself for several years and never saw any difference in the running condition based on the gas type.

The idle jet inside each carburetor has a very small hole that allows gas to pass through. More than likely there is some small debris blocking one of the idle jet passageways.

Can't tell from your picture, but you should definitely have an in-line fuel filter that keeps debris from the gas tank from getting into the carbs.

I have heard of people having luck with running Seafoam through their tank to clear out the carbs. But in my experience owning a CB350, removing and cleaning the carbs was a process I inevitably had to do a couple of times a year. It really isn't that difficult to do.

Edit:Spelling

Won't recommend using the float valves from the K&L kits. They will change your float height due to a different height and spring tension. Also, I've heard of issues with main and idle jet sizes as well, though I personally haven't had any issues using the emulsion tubes, main and idle jets. Also, the needle jet taper is way off those aftermarket kits as well. Can cause weird fuel delivery at certain throttle openings. Stick with Honda for the needle nets, float needles and seats.

Also speaking of ignition these Densos will do you one better than the d8ea ngks.

Denso-X24ES

For more info try the sohc4 forums. Also, this book is one of the best resources for the 750.

They're Renthal bars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTTBBE/

Here's a better photo of the cockpit:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/therobbstory/24930665813

And the bike with some Dime Shitty bars a while back.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/therobbstory/24259381119

I replaced the shredded seat with the correct K8 seat in good condition recently, and ditched MAC fart-can exhaust and rusty headers with a nice stainless Delkevic exhaust recently. Sounds like a CB750 now, and much more comfortable to ride.

I bought aftermarket because the rubber arms on the OEMs had rotted.

I actually didn't get LEDs as I couldn't find any that looked close enough to stock. In the end I got these and these. The second link is for the dual filament model so you can keep the running lights like stock.

It looks like Amazon is out of stock for those particular ones but the manufacturer is definitely still making them.

Haven’t done any work in my CB petcocks but on my Airhead, I replaced the original petcocks with new ones and was able to re-use the original filters (they’re metal).

In addition, you could add a filter on the line itself after the petcock if you end up wanting some extra protection.

[Inline filter](FRAM G3 in-Line Fuel Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H524S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uLU4DbC92PP76)

These guys make the job way easier. The outer wrench loosens and tightens the lock-nut while the inner flat-head makes the adjustment. $25 well spent (even though Motion Pro's stuff isn't heirloom grade).

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0073-Tappet-Tool/dp/B000JP31T8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368246057&sr=8-1&keywords=tappet

Until you tried Kroil, you haven’t tried everything. I started using this after the gunsmiths at Ruger told me it’s the secret weapon on their bench. Good luck, rider.

Kano KROIL Penetrating Oil, 8 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F09CF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JM-PDbQF5G0SQ

And you absolutely need one of these!

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BpUDDbSQB0RGV

This is the gauge. I was only able to hook up the gas indicator and its backwards because the float switch is normally open instead of closed, so when it indicates a full tank its actually on empty hahaha
As far as the other dummy lights are concerned. I ordered these LEDs. I haven't hooked them up yet because I need to build a housing for them.

A multimeter is a must have tool for someone running a vintage bike. They are relatively inexpensive. I can recommend this one as it has auto-ranging, but anyone you get will do.

Tutorial on multimeters and how they work.

How to test your motorcycle components.

If you don't care about it being "completely stock", just rewire the whole damn bike. It's pretty straight forward. That's what I did on my first project bike, you learn a lot by rewiring a bike from scratch. Go out and by some nylon sleeving, an assortment of 14g-18g multicolored wire, heat shrink, misc pack of electrical connectors. If you are somewhat mechanically/electrically inclined than by all means you should go for it. All you need to start is a soldering iron, multimeter, crimper/wire cutters, and a desire to learn. Shit man, its how I learned. Don't half ass it, and don't give up!

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/how-to-crimp-an-electrical-connector

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Solderless-Terminal-Connection-Stripper/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371692640&sr=8-1&keywords=electrical+connectors

• First, change the oil and filter. Inspect for metal filings.
  
• Flush the gas and replace the fuel filter.
  
• Replace the spark plugs
  
• Replace the air filter
  See how it runs then, that tightened mine up after purchase.

Wait. You’re just trying to get the oil filter cap off? If you are just use these: nut extractor I’ve used them on turbos before and they work. Just hammer it on and twist it off

I've def been there.

What you need is a rubber mallet, a regular hammer, and one of these suckers (you can probably find one at Ace hardware or O'reillys.)

Just use the impact driver on the screws, and once you get those out just hit the top of the cover with a mallet, and eventually it will come off.