(Part 3) Top products from r/Lexus

There are a few videos of this, but I'll summarize the steps:

1. Park on flat ground with the parking brake on
   
   
2. Put shifter in Neutral
   
   
3. Remove the piece that goes around the shifter. The joint for it is visible near where your leg would be. Grab both sides and pull up. Disconnect the wires attached to it and set it aside.
   
   
4. Remove climate control module. There are 5 double sided metal clips - 2 on the bottom and 3 on top. Push the unit toward you, the clips will pop out. This took a surprising amount of force, so don't be too alarmed.
   
   
5. Remove radio. There are 4 10 mm bolts - 2 on the bottom facing you and 2 more at a 45 degree angle. The easiest way to reach these is with a 10 mm socket (preferably the deep type) and a driver handle like this If you use a standard ratchet, then you'll need a 6" extender. I found the handle and the socket alone to be an easier way to go because of the space.
   
   
6. Plug AUX jack into the empty slot on the radio. Test it now to make sure it all works. The one I linked will use an input called "CD 1". If you press the "CD" button, this will be the default input if you have a device plugged into the jack.
   
   
7. Reverse process for radio and climate control module removal. The converter "brick" can be placed inside the area below the shifter and taped in place. There's a flat area to put it. I used foil tape (actual duct tape) because it's strong. Adhesive Velcro would also work.
   
   
8. Route the cable as needed. I passed it through the gap between the pop-out 12V (lighter) plug and the climate control module. If you do that, you will not be able to close that. However, I charge my phone from there, so it's a non-issue.
   
   
9. Replace the panel around the shifter and put the vehicle in park or another preferred gear.
   
   
   This is a pretty easy thing to do. I'm not a car guy (I'm learning) and I was able to do it. The tools required are pretty minimal. I would suggest a headlamp so you can see easily in there.
   
   Here's what mine looked like before I took the radio out to plug the cable in. The phone holder I have fits in the CD slot. I also use a USB plug with a 6" cable to charge my phone and that woks well. If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask. The time it takes to install this is so worth it.
   
   This is a video of what you need to do. I didn't use this exact kit (the one I linked previously was cheaper).

RR racing has a chip that came out last summer that adds like 15 horsepower (so they claim) that costs $350. Also, I love my K&N cold air intake on my 350, it's a throaty growl when you step on it and it supposedly added 12 horses. The intake system also improved mpg +2 on the highway. I also replaced all interior lights with LED's myself with a kit I found on eBay, very nice bright white light, it replaces side door lights and trunk lights too. Ummm I replaced my gear shift knob with a Lexus certified F Sport shifter and I also carbon fiber vinyl wrapped the door trim on my F-Sport. Also went with 15% tint. The only two things I want to do on mine is to powder coat my brake calipers F Sport blue and add a full catback exhaust.


Links:

Lexus F-Sport PTR51-53080 Shift Knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBR5D16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ECDfzbMZH3GD4

3M 1080 CF12 BLACK CARBON FIBER 60"x12" Vinyl Flex Wrap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058DIDTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bDDfzbP2R0MC3

LEDpartsNow Lexus IS250 IS350 ISF 2006-2013 Xenon White Premium LED Interior Lights Package Kit (10 Pieces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRMSXWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xDDfzb3B2AYG1

K&N 69-8701TP Typhoon; Short Ram; Polished https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NKCM3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.DDfzb9NA8CTV




https://www.rr-racing.com/v/mobile/product.asp?productid=is350tne01




http://www.modinjapan.com/pts-joe-z/pts-isx-full.html

I bought this one from GrimmSpeed . It's a little pricey but held up when someone hit my bumper lol. I have a 2015 IS250 so it should fit yours

Philips XtremeVision D4S +150% is balls-to-the-wall bright.

Osram Nightbreaker Laser +200% is supposed to be technically superior, given its +200% more beam flux claim, BUT I've tested both side-by-side, and I usually suggest that people go with the Philips. The Philips has possibly more appealing "white" color than the Osrams, and the "whiter" light plays a psychological trick: it makes us think the light is "brighter."

>We got it used a few years back and I was fairly disappointed with the night time illumination. So now I’m thinking it might not be the headlight design, just shitty bulbs.

It's not the headlamp design. HID bulbs lose lots of light output as they age, and beam focus deteriorates. After 1500 hours of operation, only 3% of standard Philips OEM type bulbs are projected to have failed. But at the same time, they'll only be putting out 75% of the original number of lumens. That's halogen bulb territory.

Lexus also generally doesn't put shitty lamps on its cars; most, if not all, of its lamps have been exemplary.

Lots of people think their HID systems are shitty and end up doing stuff like baking open their headlamps, spending $1000 to JB Weld some new projectors in, and stuff like that, but the reality is that there's nothing wrong with Lexus HID systems, which are some of the best on the market. What's wrong in 99% of cases is that they're using 10 year old HID bulbs that still ignite but don't put out much light (not to mention electrode deterioration, which negatively affects beam focus).

And depending on how old the ES is, it might have a HID system. If it does have an HID system, it's probably a good idea to replace its HID bulbs as well if they're a few years old. After just 250 hours of operation, lumen output is already at 90% of original, according to the chart I linked above. I personally buy new HID bulbs on a yearly basis.

>I would prefer to stay with the OEM type of color and not a super blue light. But brightness is the priority over color or even bulb life here.

OEM is likely just a standard Philips bulbs. Neither the Osram Nightbreaker Laser nor the Philips XtremeVision are the ultra-blue bulbs. They will "last" a similar amount of time as OEM bulbs, but will burn brighter. But really, I wouldn't worry about how "long" a HID bulb last--they can certainly last the better part of a decade--but at that point, they're like 98 year old people: useless for just about anything.

BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B-Z2BbV6XJF6X

Plug it in and download the app and boom it gives you the codes. Super useful.

It's not a terrible job. I just recently did this on my IS300 that also has the 2JZ-GE and you can do it in a day if you take your time.

You need to gauge your mechanical ability and tools-on-hand vs. taking it somewhere. If you can follow instructions and have some basic tools you can do this with the purchase of some extra.

Stuff you need:

• Balancer bolt comes off with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XDBBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• For leverage: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EP67SYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Steering wheel/balancer puller (metric bolts)
  
• Timing belt tensioner
  
• Timing belt
  
• Water pump, bypass, gaskets, thermostat
  
• Serpentine belt
  
• Cam and crank seals are recommended
  
• Cam and crank seal puller
  
• Oil and oil filter
  
• Coolant hoses
  
• Coolant
  
  All parts minus fluids can be had for under $300 with good quality.
  Tools will be about $200 assuming you rent the torque wrench and puller.
  
  Expect at least 1 bolt to get stuck and/or stripped.
  
  You'll save a few hundred bucks but you need to weigh your time and ability vs taking it somewhere.

Use white lithium grease like this.

And follow this Youtube video...it's for a Camry but pretty much the same exact thing in the RX. I just did my Mom's 2001 RX and this worked great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGriUALt3-4

Did you use a separate clearcoat to seal? This is what I ended up using and it's fantastic.

You need D4S bulbs 45 bucks from amazon for the Philips bulb.

D4S bulb amazon

NOVUS 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_x8ELybCGS2NRK

Blue bottle #1 is a very mild abrasive that will take the coating off without damaging the screen underneath

I had the same issue. Rather than try and argue with the dealership I simple ask my family mechanic to change them out for me. We identified that is was the front breaks in our case.

So we got these off amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KQA9EU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He was kind enough not to charge me for the labor so grand total was 170.00. For me that was a price worth paying not to pull up, and have my breaks squeaking.

This is the one I got from Amazon. Not sure how the OEM spoiler is shaped on the underside as mine is a different aftermarket spoiler, but this size should work for you. There are videos on YouTube you can check out for prepping and tips on applying it.

all four stock mufflers deleted, resonator deleted

two magnaflow mufflers #11225

x-pipe #66922

Here's the step by step if you're interested.

Material: 3M Scotchprint 1080 Carbon Fiber Vinyl

If you do it get the 3M gloss black 1080 vinyl https://www.amazon.com/3M-G12-GLOSS-BLACK-Vinyl/dp/B007EEU58W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481321909&sr=8-1&keywords=black+vinyl+1080

I used Rustoleum:

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249117-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS5I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538795644&sr=8-3&keywords=clear+coat+spray+paint+uv

Is this it?

Meguiar's G55107 DA Power System Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A4ABF8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WWXizb595BVRT

https://kougarov.wordpress.com/2014/02/24/how-to-remove-the-rear-seat-and-subwoofer-in-a-lexus-ls-430/

Just need to take the rear seats out. You'll need a ratchet to get some of the screws out, a simple screwdriver might not reach. Eventually i got mine out and it looked like this

I used this sub from Amazon to replace the ML one in mine. Also you need to wire it in series if you're replacing an ML subwoofer. I dont know if you can use the subwoofer i linked above to replace the Pioneer/non-Mark Levinson. You have to watch out since the Mark Levinson amplifier has a bit of a funky/picky impedance requirement for its speakers.

The most common thing is that the factory speaker/subwoofer just deteriorates from age and the sun beating down on it. The amplifier itself should be okay.

Read your current contract about early termination. Typically you have to pay out the remaining lease payments, and sometimes a fee. In which case, since you're going to be paying for it anyway, why not stay in it? There'll be a newer GS waiting for you at the end, in any case.

For the details of how leasing works, check out this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Look-Before-You-Lease-Secrets-ebook/dp/B001A1M6M8