(Part 2) Top products from r/OpenPV

That.... that is not the job of a simple mosfet. It's also beyond my abilities so i can't explain the design process to you either.

Let's consider the hypothetical situation. We have an irlb3034 with a Vgs of 10V, our power supply has infinate current capability with no drop, and everything is connected with lossless conductors.

So when our mosfet is turned on it will have a Rds(on) of 1.7mOhms. I = E / R, so I = 8.4 / 0.0017, I = 4941.18A. But a mosfet is merely a switch, the load is what you want to switch and that dictates the current sunk through a n-channel mosfet. With PWM you're switching it on an off quickly giving you an average voltage, but a lot of factors come into play (mosfet dynamic characteristics) and i don't have the time to explain that all out.

Switching supplies are entirely different animals though, inductors are involved, diodes as well, physics as well. That's all beyond my skill set when it comes to rolling my own SMPS from scratch.

There are some books on it, however they tend to assume you already know a lot or have a formal education in electroncs. That and it'd coost you probably about 400 dollars for two books on the subject if you were to buy them new instead of rent them or check em out from the library.

Sorry i couldn't be of more help. And yes Vgs of 4.5V > is for switching instead of amplifying.

You'd be looking for books such as:
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Electronics-Converters-Applications-Design/dp/0471226939/

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Electronics-Basics-Principles-Applications/dp/1482298791/

Along with a good background in general electronics and design.

• DNA75 board
  
  
• Alpinetech CNC 1590G+ red for DNA75/200 enclosure
  
  
  • 2D CAD
    
    
• Varitube V1 22mm smooth top black 510
  
  
  • secured with the help of FDV's 510 Installation Tool
    
    
• IM2X18650 injection molded battery tray
  
  
  • fixed in place with clear double sided tape
    
    
  • polarity labels printed on red card stock (office supply store), front and back covered with clear masking tape, cut with exacto knife and ruler, epoxied in place
    
    
• Mounting hardware
  
  
  • http://www.mcmaster.com/#91772A051
    
    
  • http://www.mcmaster.com/#91771A053
    
    
  • http://www.mcmaster.com/#90308A902
    
    
  • http://www.mcmaster.com/#92146A510
    
    
• Template
  
  
  • print at actual scale/1:1/100% using a dedicated PDF viewer
    
    
  • drill 1/16" for screws
    
    
• Magnets
  
  
  • Lid magnets secured with red loctite using the great method by /u/ModCrate
    
    
  • Enclosure magnets epoxied with Bob Smith Industries 5 Minute Quik-Cure
    
    
• 16g silicone insulated wire from DIY-FancyLights & also Fatdaddyvapes

I just ordered components to make my first box mod, but have done small electrical work before.

Helping Hands will make your life much easier, may not be necessary if you only intend to make one mod.

a decent digital multimeter is required, as is a Soldering iron.

A Breadboard is very useful to ensure everything works as it should, before you have it all finished and put in the case.

those are all I can think of right now, sure there are others people use regularly though

I've answered in /r/ecr also but here we go again :

This is my one : http://imgur.com/a/wuLIG

Chip: http://www.cloud9vaping.co.uk/epages/yxve46fvrnud.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/yxve46fvrnud/Products/EVOLV-04

Chip mount : http://www.sculpteo.com/en/print/dna40-chip-screen-mount-v-20/pgJYUBZ5?uuid=OqqiDxyeWa70G3vkZc5Seb

USB port , 510 and epoxy : http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/index.php?route=mobile_store/product&product_id=339

I would recommend this also(it was my best friend on this project) : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000L98020/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_r8SVub06947YY

Also you have to check the thickness of your wire . And buy this also : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004V8NHX4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_T.SVub0NF4MN0 and this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00518NDBY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.aTVub1S2GA13

I've had good success using something like these to at least test power to the board, the LCD and the on-board switches before mounting the board in the box. You can just clip them to the Bat+ and Bat- and run them to a battery pack.

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-TL-6-Standard-Alligator-10-Piece/dp/B0002JJU28/

> I had reservations about that, figured it would crack without a backing or support.

You are 100% correct. That's not how bondo works or is meant to be used.

https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-50345-Metal-Patch-Fill/dp/B0000DI81G/

Something like that or similar should work for filling the metal before doing a thin bondo layer to make it perfectly flat again. And yes, I would recommend some sort of backing while you let it cure.

You could always make one out of acrylic.

I dont think this would really work, but it's about what you could expect to find. It's a great material to work with, it probably wouldn't be too difficult to make yourself out of sheets.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7521-Helping-Hand-Magnifier/dp/B000NQ4Q4C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1416327118&sr=8-6&keywords=helping+hands

I used Rustoleum Pro line flat black on mine. No peeling. I don't know if that is what you are looking for though.
EDIT: Don't know if that is the texture you want, and it does chip after a while. Look into getting an etching primer before you lay down the bed liner, it might stick better

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARU9PO?cache=b13a50eab5e12b5fe0e7396d2b86eed1#ref=pd_aw_sbs_hi_6


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU?cache=b13a50eab5e12b5fe0e7396d2b86eed1#ref=pd_aw_sbs_hi_2


These are both good the analog one is s bit cheaper bit I think is a solid kit, keeps consistent temp very well and heats up extremely quick... 500degrees in about 20 seconds from dead cold

I could'nt find too many with that 4th pin. But here's one on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N777R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V7-tDb3FNVRQK

I used a glue stick to cover the box with paper and drew out the dimensions of the meter. After that I drilled holes to cut out most of the area and finished squaring off the hole with small hobby files, like the ones in the FAQ. These files: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416093199&sr=1-2&keywords=tekton+files

My 20 gauge wire (For battery connection and 510 connector) was purchased at Radio Shack.

For my 24 gauge wire (switches and USB charger), I picked this up:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IRQRRO/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/NES-Controller-Generic-Nintendo-Entertainment-System/dp/B000UCF9TA

Run an M10x0.5mm pitch tap through the 9mm hole. The threading will ground to the box and you won't need to solder a wire to, or even use the washer.

Edit: I've not completed this step yet as my DIY Hana enclosure was delayed at customs (should be here this week). I scoured the internet for an m10x0.5 tap that shipped from the US and this is the one i found on Amazon

Here you go! http://www.amazon.com/Amp-Non-Fusible-Safety-Switch/dp/B00002NB0H


But seriously, use a dang mosfet!

This is what I have, grabbed it as straw material originally.

White SiliconeTubing, 3/16"ID, 1/4"OD, 1/32" Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN1FLA/

It doesn't fit like a tip, too small, but it is thin enough to stretch around quite a few tips. Sorry I don't have a caliper on me right now.

So, I'm going to offer my 2 cents on this one, It's a not a cleaning issue. OP, you're NOT going to solder that with a 30W iron, and you'll have a problem soldering it with a $200 80W hakko iron too.

There's too much metal in that area to heat it to the 300C that you need to solder, The only way you're going to be able to solder that is to use a high power soldering gun such as this https://www.amazon.com/Weller-D650-Industrial-Soldering-Gun/dp/B000JEGEC0 you can probably find one at a harbor freight that'll do the job too for half that price. you'll want 150W or more.

you could either try to flow into the previous joint, if there's still solder left on the brass ring, or get some sandpaper and sand it and try to flow solder onto the brass ring, then try to solder the wire to it.

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edit; I'd actually reassemble it and put it on the vape shelf.. I just noticed the inductor inside the device is badly damaged too, it might work if you fix it, but it won't live a long life.

Its just normal solder for the silver plated positive pin, but for the negative wire on the stainless I used this. The stainless flux is basically low concentration hydrochloric acid, so make sure to rinse the part you soldered thoroughly with hot water.