(Part 3) Top products from r/SSBPM

Recording is very easy with some time and a craptop. Amarec doesn't eat much cpu/ram, but it will give you fairly large file sizes so be prepared. It's pretty easy to use 50GB of spce for a single tournament.

What you will do for basic recording/streaming is getting a entry level capture card like a Dazzle DVC 100. If you can't find a Dazzle because they are discontinued I'd recommend the Hauppauge USB Live 2 as that is what I use. You will also need 3 RCA splitters for stereo and a cable like this. You plug the splitters into the A/V inputs on the TV then run the Wii into the correct splitters and run the RCA cable into the other end of the splitters. You will then run that cable into the capture device. Things change slightly if you choose to use Svideo, Component, or HDMI to record.

Beanwolf's guide is really good for starters. If you want to stream you will need a fair amount of computer power, but something like AMD 860K 3.7Ghz with 8GB of ram and a 2GB newish graphics card should be fine.

Perhaps the most important and expensive is making sure you have a good computer or laptop that can handle streaming. Hopefully you or a friend in the scene can make that happen, 'cause that will be the biggest expense.

In terms of actual stream equipment, I'm going to assume you want the cheaper options:

1. Capture Cards
   
   

• Dazzle: https://www.amazon.com/Dazzle-DVD-Recorder-VHS-Converter/dp/B00EAS14KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481658680&sr=8-1&keywords=Dazzle+DVC+100
  
  
• Elagto: https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Video-Capture-analog-iPhone/dp/B0029U2YSA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1481658918&sr=8-7&keywords=elgato
  
  You will also want a crt that has an output area in the back or a seperate device called a splitter!
  
  
  

2. Microphone:
   
   

• Snowball: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-Condenser-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B006DIA77E/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481658986&sr=1-2&keywords=snowball+mic
  
  I super recommend this, $50 for a good quality mic that is durable and super easy to set up. Since it is an open mic it will capture extra noise aside from a commentators but I think starting hear is best!
  
  
  

3. Stream Software (Free):
   
   

• OBS
  https://obsproject.com/
  
  
• Xsplit (extra $5 fee, but not necessary to access base features)
  https://www.xsplit.com/
  
  
  
  Old, but this thread can be helpful, even though it's for melee. Has a bunch of products with prices and quality tests.
  
  https://smashboards.com/threads/beginners-guide-to-capturing-and-recording-melee-footage.298260/
  
  
  
  For people who just want to record matches for cheap, there are a variety of recording cards, such as:
  
  
• Ezcap https://www.amazon.com/EZCAP-TV-EzGrabber-Capture-Converter-Windows/dp/B003YGJLWU
  
  
  If you have any questions, lemme know! Stream shit is complicated at first, but once you get into the groove a lot of it makes sense. :)
  

I dunno 'bout any of you, but I love me a nice match on the good ol' [wii bowling ball].

... jk :P . I use the classic controller pro. It has grips like the GameCube controller, is lightweight, and has FOUR buttons on the back instead of three. The button placement shouldn't take too long to get used to (especially when compared with the wiichuck). It's basically Nintendo's version of a PS2 controller.

So after poking around in /r/headphones a bit, the Superlux HD 681 has caught my eye. Semi-open seems best for ease of transportation. Good bass, which is definitely something I would want. The isolation seems decent going off reviews, and I'd certainly want that for tournaments. The price seems fairly affordable, though I dunno how much of that is due to Amazon sale and how much of it is because its just cheap lol. Thoughts?

EDIT: Actually, I haven't really looked into good IEM's before. Would it be possible for IEM's to have enough isolation that it would block out outside noise? (One of the main reasons I listen to music is so I can't heard crowd chatter/commentary.)

then i suggest getting this (or something like it) for your desktop: http://www.avermedia-usa.com//AVerTV/Product/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=482

And if you want it to be more portable, get this and use your laptop: http://www.avermedia-usa.com//AVerTV/Product/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=511

I assume you have a crt and want to use the normal cables, so you will also need a splitter, and 2 more cords.

This is the splitter I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005N0CRT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And i bought 2 of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1DN32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know if you want to use HDMI, i do that too :)

Hand oils and dirt tend to get trapped in the seam between the outer shells, around the buttons, and around the triggers. Lint and hair tend to get trapped under the rubber part of the control stick, and under the stick (inside the controller). From my experience, the only thing that will really affect your play is if the triggers or buttons grime up to the point where they stick, or are hard to press.

Opening up the controller requires a tri wing screw driver, and possibly snipping the zip tie holding your motherboard to the top shell (newer controllers don't have this, I think). After that it's easy enough to just take a tissue a and wipe down the edges of the buttons and and button holes on the shell. Then lubricate the button holes and triggers. Here's a guide for some tips on lubricating your controller.

The triggers require a smaller phillips-head screw driver (the regular plus-sign-tip kind) to get into the trigger parts.

I recommend trimming down your trigger springs to around 1/2-2/3 length of the original size. They're a lot longer than the need to be, and it just adds to the strain on your finger that wears down your finger joints over time, causing arthritis.

The reason you'd want to keep your buttons and stuff cleaned/lubed is to minimize the effort to press down each button, reducing the wear/strain on your hands. Each button press does essentially nothing to your finger, but over millions of button presses, added to any resistance from your stick/unclean controller really adds up over time.

It's one of those things that you don't feel the effects of until it's too late, like poor posture, or not brushing your teeth.

The other reason is because when you give your controller to your buddy and it looks like shit and slimes up his hand, he laughs at you internally.

You're definitely mixing up some information.

The two different video output cables are the standard composite cables (1 yellow cable, 480i) and the component cables(3 cables green, blue, red, 480p) which are sold separately.

Both composite and component video are analog.

The product description of this certain adapter states that all it does is convert analog into digital.

>the Wii2HDMI converter dynamically switches or converts your analog content to digital HDMI format.

Using the Sewell adapter is basically the same using component cables to output 480p then converting it to HDMI using one of these adapters just with less cables.

I just got these in the mail and they work perfectly

Please just use the tried in true method of using an SD Card + Brawl. Nintendo is still distributing Brawl at a reasonable price, so you really have no excuse.

I bought these for my gf who wanted to get into it with me: TechKen Nintendo Wii Controller GameCube Wii U Replacement Wired Classic Controller Gamepad for Nintendo GameCube Wii https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725TBJC7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_cvcpnvsVgYV93

The analog stick is pretty decent and the buttons all work.

Third party http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L93F0A/sr=1-2/qid=1414363650/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1414363650&sr=1-2 dont remember which distributor tho

i like sports and i dont care who knows |
http://www.amazon.ca/CTA-WI-FOOT-Wii-Football-Standard/dp/B002ZV9AD0/ref=sr_1_203?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1411012013&sr=1-203

I tried this a while back, and couldn't get it to work. After some googling I learned that you can not load a Wii game off SD card, and apply gecko codes to it at the same time. I don't know if anything has changed since then.

If you're trying to do this because you want your setup to be a slim as possible without a USB drive hanging out the back, get one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FYNSZA/ref=twister_B00JO6RO8C

Oh I didn't even realize reddit ate my comment:

Then this is probably what you want:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SQE1O0

Sorry about that

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JEODG8?cache=e8269d7d26854c551f904429af7c5cf7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1406821273&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4
65 bucks but itll prolly last longer than the OG Gamecube style controller(havent used it myself)

It's because your wii's disk reader is old, probably dusty or something. I had the same problem which was fixed by replacing the boot.elf file with an older project m version's boot.elf. This works because in the older versions, it didn't take you back to the wii menu, it just lets you try again. You could do that or fix the wii by buying this but it's sort of expensive.

Edit: Where you can download older versions of project m: https://sites.google.com/site/sapphiredragon77/SapphireDragon/projectm-mirror

I don't think using letterbomb will let you run (not install) Project M on an SDHC card. If it did, the mistake you made was where you put the PM dol (or elf, I don't remember) file. I think for letterbomb it's supposed to be in the root of your SD card. But again, I don't think it matters. You need a non-SDHC card. It can even be a microSD card with an adapter

edit

I keep forgetting you can use a larger SD card with homebrew. Don't listen to me.

Not OP, but I have used this flash drive with no issues at all loading with USB Loader GX.


Right now though, I actually load it off of my Class 10 SanDisk micro SD card with CFG USB Loader, again with no issues.