(Part 3) Top products from r/Trucks

The escalades and denalis all have a small factory cooler.
Im running a ACDelco 89022577 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Auxiliary Fluid Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9TRWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y.zhAbN0GW6H8

Because i got a good deal on it. I ran a hayden 689 30k cooler on my denali. Pretty easy to find around 60 iirc.

You can bypass the radiator if you live in a warm climate though i didnt bother, but if you do it protects you against the strawberry milkshake issue where the rad can fail and mix coolant with trans fluid.

The overkill option is the transcool 40k, the performance/towing guys generally run that.

Install for that delco cooler was plug and play basically iirc. Just had to release one of the brackets holding the line at the rad support to move it over. The Hayden one i cut off the stock fittings and used some hose clamps same deal woth moving the line over. I always hard mount mine bc i dont like those mounts they come with

Vette servo is an easy install and costs about $20. I did mine in the driveway... Reduces slippage. Paying someone to install should be 1 hr labor. They should come that way from the factory. Not harsh at part throttle at all, my wife never noticed...but you can feel it shift harder at wot.

Yeah, no one makes anything for 1st gen Daks. They're these.

"Black Off Road Scene Easy Fit Mud Guard 11" - Set of 2 "
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NIJS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I was looking for some that said 4x4 on them in a non-gaudy way because that's what the original flaps had. But I couldn't find any that weren't in some weird font. So these'll do. Very happy with the quality for the price.

I've always used 3M weatherstripping adhesive. Amazon carries it, but I usually get it from my local parts place.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M

Not sure what to recommend for the back panels. Silicone caulk isn't going to be super durable though.

Thanks!

This: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KNelzbNETSX7V

Versus this: Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMelzb052MTNF

Which do you recommend?

These are my favorite places to shop online (not necessarily in that order). There is also Amazon for some parts like this.

Rockauto.com

SummitRacing.com

LMCTruck.com

ClassicParts.com

Monster transmission.com

Jegs.com

Ingersoll Rand makes pretty decent 1/2" impacts in the $200 range. An 8-15 Gallon Air Compressor is going to run you $250-400

If you don't want air you can get something like this

Replace the emblem

bearfire 2005-2014 Ford F150 Dark Blue Oval 9" X 3.5" Front Grille Replacement Badge Emblem Medallion Name Plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWV7YJB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sxVMDbB6YNBXS

Get your windows tinted (pay the extra for ceramic)

Upgrade speakers / head unit

Get caught up on maintenance

Enjoy it for what it is, a reliable full size pickup

weeelllll, the cheap way would be to cut out the existing muffler and to put in a new muffler (rather than replacing all the pipe), you can get a muffler cheap, i went with a thrush glasspack for $30 and it sounds great, but i know a lot of people like the flowmaster 40 just a quick google Here but that's a dual out so you'll need to buy some more piping to put infront of your other tire. There's also the flowmaster 44 here bit more but a different sound, also a single out, so you could keep your piping, as long as it isn't rusted. If you have a cel on for your cat, i'd recommend replacing that too as long as the truck is under 190k miles otherwise i would just say fuck it and leave it be. You can also just go with a really cheap muffler for about $40, which will muffle the sound of the engine just a bit, but not much and you get the true engine sound (minus what's blocked by the cat) or you can just cut out the muffler and stick a piece of pipe in there for full engine sound (idk what your laws are on mufflers and what not).


Edit: don't buy from my links, search some more, just didn't have time to search fully for cheapest buy, also there's tons of youtube vids of different mufflers and their sounds, granted you'll get a different sound as you have an older, and most likely different engine than that of the youtuber.

Edit: also forgot you may/most likely will have to buy a 1" to 2" transistor tube (just random numbers you'll have to measure your pipe) you'll also need someone to weld it on, or they have clamps to exhaust but they're like $7/ea and you'll need 4 if you are needing the transiting pipes, or you can buy some exhaust tape which is like a welding type tape, idk how to explain it, or you could just take it to a shop and pay $25 for a guy to weld it, which is the longer term option.

Did you ever see the [Collectors Edition] (http://www.amazon.com/Invader-ZIM-House-Complete-Vols/dp/B00069A6WC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398300643&sr=8-1&keywords=invader+zim+collectors+house)?

What about this https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-12-Volt-Fleece-Heated-Blanket/dp/B0009Y2CFS

https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y

That or a different brand.

> 3M trim adhesive

This kind? https://www.amazon.com/3M-03601-Plastic-Emblem-Adhesive/dp/B000CCM3J2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506602417&sr=8-3&keywords=3M+trim+adhesive

Its spray tint : http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPCRS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419189662&sr=8-1 you can find it at your local autozone.

Or ya know..

http://www.amazon.com/62041-Steel-Receiver-Shackle-Bracket/dp/B000CQBMAY

I'll stick to my skyrack, won't bump your head this way.

https://www.amazon.com/Big-Sky-SBR-2G-Rack-2-Gun/dp/B000NDPZYK

Lisle 13250 oil pressure switch socket

Unfortunately, they aren't as cheap as you'd think for just some metal tubing. That said, it was necessary and it was the only one I could find. I got mine here:
http://www.amazon.com/Fabtech-FTT10002BK-Angled-Spare-Mount/dp/B000CMD3HI

Yeah, no problem.

So these are what I'm talking about when I said bypass filters.

These are the amsoil setups, they're stupidly expensive and don't really have much benefit over the traditional filter configurations other than you can mount both filters somewhere easier to change.

amsoil

These are the traditional setups. I use the WIX

wix filterhead


Baldwin filterhead


filter


baldwin filter

Here's a video of my F250 Diesel running with it's mechanical gauge and bypass filter, with the return line unhooked and put in an oil bottle. You can see how the .00625 hole in the filter limits the flow so it doesn't effect oil pressure.

Bypass filter

This is the overdrive unit I mentioned

LMC truck usually makes pre-wired headlight relay harnesses. They only use two relays (one for lows, one for highs) so I make my own, but that's probably an option if you don't do much wiring.

Another thing I forgot to mention is grounds. You can't have to many grounds. The factory wiring is usually something like

battery - terminal to block

Block to firewall.

Most electrical gremlins start with bad grounds. I like to use 2 gauge welding machine supply cable to run a line from the firewall, the frame, the radiator core support, and the block (preferably near the alternator or the starter) to a common stud or bolt somewhere and then connected that to the batter in addition to the factory ground straps. It's overkill, but none of my trucks ever have ground issues.

Welding supply cable is pretty cheap. About a 1.50$ a foot. I got about 30 feet of it years ago and still have tons left over even after all of my projects.

welder cable

There's a mod called the big three, in which you add a cable that this from the alternator charging post (assuming a 1 wire alt) to the battery + terminal. I advise against this because although it does help with charging by reducing voltage drop between the alt and the rest of the charging system, if that wire grounds out it'll start a fire, unless you put a circuit breaker on it. Stick with heavy ground and the factory style 8 gauge fuse wire for charging.