(Part 3) Top products from r/Warhammer40k

Long post incoming....

So, I don't think I've seen many airbrush discounts. Badger did a nice promotion where you could buy any airbrush for $55 for their 55 year anniversary this summer, but other than that it's kind of hard to find discounts. As far as Prime Day, I doubt they're going to have discounts on airbrushes, that's a pretty niche product they don't really get into. If you want to get started with that, I'd do something like this:

• Paasche D3000R Compressor this is the one I use... it's held up over the past 10 years quite well, painted some ~12,000 points of Marines, Guard, Knights, and Chaos with it.
  
  
• Iwata Neo Airbrush Iwata airbrushes rock... I use an Iwata HP-CS, which is really good, but like 3x more expensive than this. This would be a good starter brush that should do the job though.
  
  
• Airbrush Hood You can put this on your desk and you just spray into it. It has a fan which pulls paint dust through the filter in the back, very important to prevent you from breathing paint and getting colored dust everywhere.
  
  You then need a cleaning pot, some cleaning fluid, and an airbrush hose All told, that's like $300.
  
  Then you need paint, paint brushes, a hobby knife, super glue, a mini hand drill, some small drill bits, sprue cutters, basing materials (cork board, model railroad ballast, etc) and I find a pair of tweezers helpful. That could add up to another $200 in materials (and obviously can cost way more, paint is expensive). So of your $550 budget, you would then have $50 remaining for models... which will buy you one model kit. So if you're looking to get started for $550, I'd probably forget the airbrush for now, and just get paints that can be used with one later. I recommend Vallejo paints. The eyedropper bottles work great for airbrushing, and you can just thin them with water. I haven't met one yet that doesn't work. A paint set like this would set you up nicely for doing an Imperial Guard army.
  
  As far as what army to play... Guard is fun, but if you like the modern military aesthetic, Space Marines might be more what you're after. The new Repulsor Executioner tanks look awesome, and the new Primaris marines are great looking models... some of the best GW has produced. The Guard kits are looking kinda... dated IMO.

Hello friend, I just got into magnetizing and have done all my research and my models came out great. The best magnets to get are made by "Primal Horizon". For swapping out weapons use the 1/16"x 1/32" sized magnets

1. I bought mine on Amazon and it came with 140 magnets of varying sizes (I have some small enough to swap out my plasma pistols, bolters, power swords etc...). I bought off Amazon to get started: HERE. They all use standard drill bit sizes, so any kit of drill bits should suffice.
   
   
2. The depth of the magnets is not a concern if you get the ones I linked. They are all the right depth for each respective application, just make sure you are not boring the holes too deep and let them sit nicely. On a lot of models you will end up drilling through the model and it will be a hole, get some green stuff! The citadel green stuff that comes in the bottle I found worked the best. Place the green stuff in the whole and fill it completely, let it settle for maybe 2-3 minutes then place in your magnet. Let it settle for another 10-15 minutes and make sure the magnet is flush (or sometimes it is nice to have it pop out a bit depending on the look you are going for). Last step is to place a very small coat of superglue over the green stuff to make sure you have a layer to keep the green stuff and magnet in place. I cannot tell you how many times I let the model sit overnight only to have the magnet sucked out (these things are very strong for their size) and negate all the work I had just done.
   
   
3. Size matters!! As I said previously, there are different magnets for different applications. Once you get the magnets, it is very easy to tell which size to use for which application. The nice thing about the small sized magnets for replacing arms, hand weapons and even being able to swap out combi-weapons is that the magnets seat perfectly without using green stuff or superglue, although a thin layer of superglue never hurts :)
   
   
4. If you have the citadel set of drill bits, they will include the smaller bits needed for the smaller magnets. The sizes of the magnets are all standard drill bit sizes, so your basic drill bit kit at any hardware store should do the trick. When you start to get to larger diameter magnets, a low RPM drill is very, very time saving! Not only will it save you time, but it will make a nice clean hole allowing it to sit nice, neat, and flush with the model. You could purchase a Dremel tool since they are relatively cheap and easy to work with. If not, use any powered drill, or heck, do it manually! Remember, low RPMs...do not go drilling holes quickly as this can crack the model seams and create more problems later such as having to fill in around the magnets with green stuff and more superglue which equals more mess and cleanup before painting.
   
   My final note, and this is my BEST piece of advice! ALWAYS CHECK POLARITY! I cannot tell you how many times I had everything set, magnets on both ends of what I was trying to adhere together and then arrrggghhh.... wrong polarity. The best approach to this I found is keeping the magnets stacked and stuck together... kinda like this > [[[[] I hope that crude picture helps haha. What I would do is keep them stuck to a piece of metal that has a good surface area, place my first magnet into the arm socket of the model while they are still stacked and then let the first magnet settle and dry. After that, remove the tool in which the magnets are stuck to and with the other piece you are trying to attach, just simply put the magnet on the opposite end into the hole on the piece in which you are attaching. This will ensure polarity is correct. I am sorry if that was a crude way of explaining it, but I would be happy to take photos and link them to explain this process.
   
   Most of all, have fun! There is no better feeling being able to swap out all my Dread weapons, melee weapons on squads etc... I also put some magnets on the torso of my Dreads to give it some nice movement and rotation (almost makes it feel like a ball bearing). If you have anymore questions or need any clarification please let me know and I would be happy to help ya out, upload photos etc..
   
   Good luck, have fun!!

I'll grab a couple of these that I've learned in the past several months, as I'm also quite new here.

1. Sweet tool called a pin-vice (That one's pretty expensive, shop around). As for magnets, I'm using 2mm diameter, roughly 1mm thick round magnets from I dunno, I googled 2mm round magnet. Bought like 200 of them for something like $10.
   
   
2. If you paint super thin, like one of my favorite twitch streamers, Slowfuse you can just paint right over your mess-up with no problems. If you really really want to strip it, many people use simple-green for plastic models. I don't remember what to use for resin models.
   
   
3. Slowfuse paints practically with the wash-cup water lol. As long as you unload most of the watery paint onto, say your thumb, you will have amazing results with super thin paint. You'll end up doing lots of layers, probably even more than Duncan! You've applied enough coats when the color is as visible as you need for the situation. Sometimes you can use just a coat or two, for tinting the color you put on first, or other times you can keep going until the current color is solid.
   
   
4. Super small brush, very thin paint, multiple layer, steady hand. Sometimes you can clean up a line of paint that went wide with whatever color you mistakenly covered.
   
   I'm going to stop there and hope others will finish the rest and also give their own answers to the first 4, since, as I mentioned, I'm new myself!

No worries mate, the tutorials online are good but if you want to check out the other ranges then this chart is very good https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart I personally recommend Vallejo Game Colour for brighter colours and model colour for more realistic hues. They come in 17ml bottles instead of 12ml and are cheaper. I only prefer GW technical paints and washes over Vallejo, but each to their own.

In the SW I think the best place to get your paints would be online. https://www.darksphere.co.uk/ or https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/ have always stood me in good stead. The paint packs are always the best value but what colours you need depend on what army you're painting.

As most of the models are plastic now I'd recommend cutters and a modelling knife. You get much finer precision than a Stanley Knife. I've been using this set for 4 years https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modelcraft-9-Piece-Plastic-Modelling-Tool/dp/B001TH8LAY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549923613&sr=8-4&keywords=modelling+kit and it is sooo much cheaper than the GW stuff.

For a compressor get one with a tank, it assures a good even flow of air.

The one I have is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The compressor I linked is pretty quiet as well.

For airbrushes I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013NBQLA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The airbrush has worked great for me and looks very nice, it provides a good flow of paint and is very easy to clean.
For paint I use Vallejo model air, is needs to be thinned down a decent amount. I have also tried Citadel air paint and while it needs a small amount of thinning it worked well. There are lots of other good airbrushes as well, I have been very impressed with Badger's airbrushes, they are a little expensive around $100 but they are very good quality. Make sure you get paint reducer and airbrush cleaner as well, the reducer helps thin down the paint to prevent clogs in the airbrush.

I'd recommend getting a hand-drill like this.

Not a power-drill, and not the cranking type of hand-drill. You want the type you hold and twist like a screwdriver. It gives you more control and you can go at a snail's pace to make sure it's perfect until you build more confidence.

These are some of the best minis I've ever seen, so your hand control is already top notch. Don't sell yourself short, you'll be drilling out barrels with the best of them.

here is my set up. nothing to complain about. and the badger 105 is a great starter. its use of good machining means it only has one o-ring and its dead simple to clean.

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Fitting-Conversion-Adapter/dp/B0038NJYHG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9CTBV4FN6C10RQSFJXPG

https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505354405&sr=1-4&keywords=master+airbrush+1%2F6

then you will need cleaning supplies such as

https://www.amazon.com/Naturebelle-Airbrush-Cleaning-Holder-Nozzle/dp/B01D41W04U/ref=pd_sim_201_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3SG1JR28SAK6TVWHEZ03

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0SQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505354507&sr=1-1&keywords=iwata%2Bairbrush%2Bcleaner&th=1

I'm pretty happy with the quality of everything and it makes painting a base coat of pure white or yellow super simple. also makes painting a color shift or pattern very easy. if you have the cash i would highly recommend it

here are some of my projects i have completed with it

https://imgur.com/a/N4mhr

Man there is a lot to cover.

But to start, get a compressor with a reservoir so you can have extended paint sessions without overheating the pump. Something like this, Also some Dentist supply depot have oilless compressors with reservior ( the oiless part is very important for painting) that are really quiet but can get a bit expensive.

Get a good airbrush, you can find good quality airbrush in amazon but skip ANY of this type you won't get much out of those. This is a very good gravity fed airbrush.

• this camera setup: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IO2XVSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
   
  
  
• this light box and lights:
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CX9S8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
   
  
  
• and this photo tutorial:
  https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJ94-fHMfAt1yQfGbeMQqOAS7c59mbiYt
  
   
  
  Knowing the above, these photos aren't really that great, I just used the settings that I already had on. These could be greatly improved if I had taken the time to do so, regardless, I appreciate the compliment! Also even if you don't have a fancy camera and light box I HIGHLY recommend watching that tutorial series on miniature photography, a lot of people around the sub could learn a ton and greatly improve the quality of the pictures they post even with just a simple camera on a smart phone.
  
  
  
  
  

I was in the same boat as you. This is all the stuff I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067BAYNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KS1II96/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TJA0SQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1,https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BN5RUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

I also bought an assortment of paints I thought I'd need. I went with the Vallejo Game Air line. If you look around, you'll see the stuff I bought recommended by many people for novice airbrushers.

Also, when I bought all that stuff, I signed up for the Amazon Prime credit card as well, so I ended up getting like $120 off that order. It worked out pretty well.

Yeah! So green stuff is a form of epoxy putty that can be used to shape into objects or fill gaps in models. You use it by combining two sides of epoxy to form a new chemical compound, which will eventually harden dry. I don’t really know my way around it that well but it’s very useful! There are many brands but here’s a link to one: The Army Painter 2 Part Modelling Clay, 20cm - Mouldable Model Putty Modelling Compound for Miniatures, Easy-to-Knead Green Putty Epoxy Clay for Sculpting - The Original Green Stuff Kneadatite https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AE5ZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_98y5CbZDYMPRK :)

Well, let me help you with the tools.

This is what I have it has served me well for the past 7months of this hobby.

This is all you should need for the starting of the models.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-39604-Contacta-Professional-Glue/dp/B000KJPUL0/ref=sr_1_cc_6?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1421508285&sr=1-6-catcorr&keywords=humbrol+model

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-39604-Contacta-Professional-Glue/dp/B000KJPUL0/ref=sr_1_cc_6?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1421508285&sr=1-6-catcorr&keywords=humbrol+model

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Humbrol-No-00-Triangle-Handle-Detail/dp/B0089W1LQS/ref=pd_sim_k_h_b_cs_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PVXTVM1HZWBV99J5A22

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001MTHQ0U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004OIAVJY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00649ON36?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sandpaper-Waterproof-Highest-Quality-STARCKE/dp/B009QZEQKK/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1421508669&sr=8-16&keywords=sandpaper+sheet

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Modelcraft-9-Piece-Plastic-Modelling-Tool/dp/B001TH8LAY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1421508555&sr=8-4&keywords=model+file - this has a tiny cutting map and some other crap, but the cutters and the file are amazing IMO

Above is all the basic stuff you need for this hobby, I might of missed something, but don't think so.



Get the models and paints from https://www.darksphere.co.uk/pgc.php?c=1106 as it could literally mean for example, in my case, I can buy 3 manticores(the thing with a load of rockets) for the price of 2 manticores from the offical site or shop of gamesworkshop.

Everything is about 30% cheaper than offical places but literally the same stuff.

Also, look on ebay daily as they have some great deals sometimes, also would really pay to get some cheap shitty model and practice on it, rather than getting some nice and new model and using it as practice.

Hope this helps:)

I've never used it, so, I didn't want to just launch in with a bunch of advice. If it was me, I'd use a magnifying visor and little tools like that.

You may need to lubricate the tools so they don't stick to the green stuff. Water works for Plasticine, not sure about, epoxy. (E: as below, Vaseline for green stuff, apparently) First, I would smooth the overall shape. Use a concave tool for convex edges, like biceps, and a convex tool for concave edges like saddles. Then, I would take a skinny tool and incise simple details, like those scales. Incision also makes little ridges, so you need to smooth those down while you work. You may have a limited time, so rather than get caught up in details and then have it dry half done, I'd work the whole thing all at once and get increasingly granular.

At the end of the day, if my level of control was not good enough to get the contouring and texturing that I wanted, I would try to design a solution that would still look good with the shaping ability that I knew I had, which is why I suggested scars or something.

Again, this is clay, not sure about epoxy. Your overall design is rad. This will look bad ass when it's painted, no matter how close you get your sculpting to your desired result.

E: tutorial for green stuff which says pretty much what I did lubricate with Vaseline, not water.

SuperClean has worked wonders for me! I soak my models for 48-72 hours then go at them with a denture brush. Paints easily strip off while the primer remains intact. It can also be useful to dismantle models. After about a week or two of soaking, you can pull apart a model like you're separating lego pieces. So far, I've only used it with GW plastic, but for that, it works great!

I used a hand pin vise drill https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FJ6VD2P?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

The drilling went really well and wasn't too hard but getting started on the shoulder was tough because it was round. It kept slipping off but eventually it stuck. The holes the biggest drill bit made fit these magnets perfectly https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076CJL649?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

It's just usually called "green putty". There are several different brands. GW carries a two part putty, but it's the same as other brands, but way more expensive.

This is a two part that's really good. You can also use it to mold and sculpt parts, like purity seals and the like.

This plastic putty has a nozzle so you can control the bead.

Tamiya and Squadron both make white/green putty that's good for filling small gaps and cracks.

This kit is only $27 shipped and has all the magnets you'll need unless you really go nuts - then you might have to get some more of the middle size eventually.

You also need a pin vice drill

But if you really can't wait, just go really easy with super glue on the arm joints - as that is typically where you magnetize. I'll get some pics here in a sec and update this post.

EDIT Ok here's a quick and dirty magnet album so you can get a good idea of which spots to magnetize. On the Thunderwolves I magnetized the rider in the ass so I can transport them easier. The arms are magnetized for weapon swapping. I also magnetized the backpack of any dude that might ever equip a Jump Pack (blood claws can quickly become sky claws, rune priests are great with jump packs so they can deep strike and psych). Dreadnought arms are pretty obvious. I also magnetized the hand on my battle leader using the smallest magnet size so I could give him a plasma pistol or a combi weapon.

Ask JIDF-Shill.


But in Horus Rising on pages 354-355, Horus says the Emperor was born in Anatolia (spelled Anatoly in Horus Rising), and shows a ring the Emperor gave him made a year before he (the Emperor) was born.


>The dreadful Sagittary, he said. Most warlike of all. Strong, relentless, unbridled, swift and sure of his mark. In ancient times, he told me, this was the greatest sign of all. The centaur, the horse-man, the hunter-warrior, had been beloved in the old ages. In Anatoly, in his own childhood, the centaur had been a revered symbol. A rider upon a horse, so he said, armed with a bow. The most potent martial instrument of its age, conquering all before it. Over time, myth had blended horseman and steed into one form. The perfect synthesis of man and war machine. That is what you must learn to be, he told me. That is what you must master. One day, you must command my armies, my instruments of war, as if they were an extension of your own person. Man and horse, as one, galloping the heavens, submitting to no foe. At Ullanor, he gave me this.’

>Horus set down his cup, and leaned forward to show them the weathered gold ring he wore on the smallest finger of his left hand. It was so eroded by age that the image was indistinct. Loken thought he could detect hooves, a man’s arm, a bent bow.

>‘It was made in Persia, the year before the Emperor was born. The dreadful Sagittary.



https://www.amazon.com/Horus-Rising-Heresy-Dan-Abnett/dp/1849707448

For sure, you could get a 00 or 0000 sable brush. I use Winsor and Newton which is about $13 instead of $20 and frankly much better quality than the basic GW brushes, but really any small brush will do. Sable is a great material for model painting, but really you could get something cheaper if you aren't picky. Just go to your local art store and find a small watercolor brush.

> Am definitely thinking contrast paints are the way to go for starters. Do they come in inclusive sets?

​

Depends on if you remember how to paint, really. It's another way to do things. No sets, AFAIK, but they are intended to replace base, shade and layer paints with one paint, so they're overall either cheaper or better value for money, if you didn't do highlights before contrast paints.

​

Supplies:

--Razor knife

​

--Cut mat

​

--plastic glue

​

--*thick* superglue

​

--Spray primer of choice

​

--cheap arts & craft store brushes

​

--sticky tac

​

--gatorade caps

It's ok lol, I had the same question (started in March)

I used one of these to drill a small hole in its foot: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJ6VD2P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BsIiDbXZK8B5K

I then used a cutting plier to snip off part of an office clip. Then you can use a vise grip to force it into the cork at a decent depth, depending on how long you snipped it.

I put a bit of glue at the tip of the clip that's sticking out of the cork, and also a bit in the foot hole I drilled. Glue them together, and voila. Make sure you use both hands to hold it in place while the glue bonds, for a few seconds.

If you decide to do this for separate parts instead of a wholly assembled model, you can skip the hole drilling step. I.E. if you want to have a head, arm, weapon etc, just glue them directly to the tip of the office clip. You can very easily snap it off when you're done painting. Be sure to glue it to a place where that part won't be visible once the model is assembled.

I'd imagine it would. You could use this regulator to get it down to 30psi to airbrush with using this regulator http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00171BFKK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00171BFKK&linkCode=as2&tag=theplacrablo-21&linkId=B2UA7GBYXFXSCCFS

It's one I have attached to my compressor.

Badgers are great and I have a velocity and it's the best I've ever had (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0013NBQLA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B0013NBQLA&linkCode=as2&tag=theplacrablo-21&linkId=JBYG4F6UTGNAA6PD), however it might be worth getting a cheaper one to learn with as they get broken easily because the needles and parts are so fine. So maybe pick one up like the iwata neo. That was my second one and the only reason I replace it was because I fucked it up in my ultrasonic cleaner by keeping part of it together.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00792I04U/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00792I04U&linkCode=as2&tag=theplacrablo-21&linkId=ODKBVSRHLROHJ7KI

Looks great! I would suggest when you thin a white paint that you don't use water. Instead, use Liquitex Titanium White Ink. It thins the paint without losing pigment.
https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Acrylic-Titanium-White/dp/B002644I1U

Thanks for the input guys. One thing to clarify, was it reissued? I see on Amazon this one from 2006

https://www.amazon.com/Soul-Drinkers-Omnibus-Warhammer-Novels/dp/1844164160/ref=pd_sim_14_6/185-9598647-7379142?ie=UTF8&dpID=51sOdDcLS4L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR104%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=M0BZSM4QA9DRW55Q3QPT

And this one from 2013

https://www.amazon.com/Soul-Drinkers-Redemption-Ben-Counter/dp/1849704597

If so, were there any major changes?

Primal Horizon Super Pack of... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6VZ832?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It might save you some money to go on Amazon. They usually run about $10

Would this be the most up to date Codex?

Thanks for the reply!

With how quickly you'll be going through those pots priming everything with it, I would not recommend using any of the GW paints for priming. You can get a large 200 mL of Vallejo Black Surface Primer for only $16, they also have a variety of other colors, you will save a lot of money buying these bottles if you want paint-on primer.

The Ultramarines Omnibus by Graham McNeill has a section that involves them defending Tarsis Ultra from a splinter force from Tyranids hive fleet Leviathan.

I considered whole book to be a good read

http://www.amazon.com/The-Ultramarines-Omnibus-Warhammer-000/dp/1844164039

Sounds interesting. Is there any way to get that book for a more reasonable price than this https://www.amazon.com/Xenology-Research-Bestiary-Biegel-Warhammer/dp/1844162826?

White ink from a actual paint store. Like liquitex or FW.

https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Acrylic-Titanium-White/dp/B002644I1U/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=white+ink&qid=1569291345&sr=8-4

LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_OndeAbQWW4CRQ

Here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-Lighting-AGG349/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=sr_1_51_sspa?keywords=light+box&qid=1572890154&sr=8-51-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNktWNjdLSjhTT1NPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDA5NzE0V0VRSk9CQ0ExUlVHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2Mzg0MjIxSTBORFdUNVFQREVRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmX25leHQmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

The book in question is Xenology: Notes and Research from the Alien Bestiary of Biegel

this one?

Apologies in advance if this breaks any sub rules, but I got these. for the troops I use the smallest size in the hands, and the next size up for the arms.

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Tac-Stik-Reusable-Adhesive/dp/B001CEMCXQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500529294&sr=8-2&keywords=poster+tack

I use this for all my warriors, Tyrants, ect, way less time consuming than magnets

this one?
https://www.amazon.com/SuperClean-101786-Cleaner-Degreaser-Trigger/dp/B0039ZBLEC
I need a point of reference as this shit doesn't ship to where I live...

[Try this]
(https://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Multi-Power-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=pd_sbs_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XXFZXPWRHM9VGHASZF8G)

Salamanders Omnibus

Ultramarines Omnibus

Sons of Dorn (novel)

Soul Drinkers Omnibus

Try these bad boys out, or something like em

Prime Vallejo Surface Primer Black

Airbrush Rhinox Hide from below at an angle

Airbrush Mournfang Brown

Zenithal Vallejo Gunmetal Premium making sure you leave the browns in the shaded areas.

I will be changing to Vallejo completely because GW paints are a pain in the arse to get into an airbrush.

If this is the Codex you have, you'll definitely want to switch to the new Codex.

The new Codex doesn't just include the new Vanguard Primaris units, but is an over all refresh of the Space Marines, including rule and points adjustments across the range.

The older Codex is essentially obsolete, and the new one would be required if you were to enter any sort of competitive event.

This guy? https://www.amazon.com/Codex-Adeptus-Astartes-Space-Marines/dp/1785819496/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510559081&sr=8-1&keywords=space+marine+codex+8th+edition

Does that mean Index: Imperium 1 is useless?

Here is the book.

They may not have a homeworld, but that doesn't have to mean they don't have a mythos attached to them. I actually liked the concept of the inquisition skull with the third eye, maybe you can go with that. Are they a type of 'seer' chapter, on the edges of imperial jurisdiction, that other chapters come to when they are need information too dangerous to acquire through normal methods? You could weave a story where the scions have been involved in the background of many different conflicts while the main chapters were in the spotlight.