(Part 3) Top products from r/Warmachine

Look, first off. You tried and you have a painted mini, you're now 100% better than the dude that shows up with primed minis and 1000% better than the dude that shows up with bare metal/plastic ones.

Second, in general, the first thing you paint won't be good. The second won't either, but you have to keep trying. Have you checked youtube for any tutorials? Just watching some other people paint could be a huge help, there's a lot in the technique.

Finally, I don't know your situation, but if you can afford some better paints, you'll probably be stunned at the difference they make. Make sure you have some good brushes too. Also, As a rule of thumb, in my opinion, if you're painting light colors, prime white, painting dark colors, prime dark. Don't use gloss paints... unless you want it glossy, but usually you seal it with a gloss seal if that's the case.

Here is a set of paints specifically for Khador. I'd honestly suggest using those and using the box and pictures online as a reference. Once you get some experience, then go nuts.

Also, fuck ostrakon. There's no reason to talk to ANYONE like that. You tried and you came here to show off and our duty to do our best to give you fair criticism and pointers so you'll join and be a happy member of this community and hopefully bring others.

I put the card in a flexible sleeve, and then put that sleeve in a top loader(ie, hard sleeve).

The flexible sleeve keeps it moving inside the top loader. The soft sleeves are just cheap ones that are like $3 for more than you'll ever need, and then the top loaders were like $10 for like 100. I store the cards I don't use in a binder of pocket pages(often already in the soft sleeves).

I hear good things about clear dragon shields if you're interested in only soft sleeves. I like the durability of top loaders, and for storing I like pages so I can easily organize things without having to constantly shuffle through or reorganize cards.

Here's a link to an ultra pro top loader/soft sleeve combo

I prefer Gorilla Super Glue (Make sure it's Blue cap).

Brushes: Best Brush IMO : Windsor & Newton Series 7. Size 0, 1, and/or 2. Pick up Two, one for metallic paints and one for regular paints. I would also go to a hobby shop and get a cheap bag of assorted brushes for Drybrushing, Washing, and Glue spreading. Don't use good brushes for Drybrushing etc, it messes up the bristles.

Pick up some Elmers School glue for basing.

Xacto Knife like dm33186 said.

Paints... There are so many. I like p3 paints (they sell paint sets for your faction even) and GW washes. Gale Force 9 basing supplies.

You may also want Green stuff if your models are metal, as there will be gaps you might want to fill/sculpt terrain on bases, etc.

DON'T FORGET PRIMER: Army Painter or Krylon black or white (depending if you want them to have a dark/light color scheme)is my preferred choices.

Also, Don't forget to wash them with hand soap + old/cheap tooth brush and water. This cleanses the model of mold release powders, etc. (I normally wash all the parts, let dry, glue model together, then I prime. After all that you are ready to paint.)

I'm new to the hobby as well, but I like this set of brushes. It's only $15 and comes with 5 sizes and they seem high quality. I've seen the Da Vinci brand recommended by more experienced painters as well.

Other than that so far I've used the x-acto knife quite a bit. Super glue of some kind (Can't imagine that it matters much. I use one I got at a local game store and also got some accelerant that makes it dry almost instantly).

I got the Iron Kingdoms set of paints from Privateer Press which has basic metal colors and black/white. And then the faction set of paints (Khador for me). I also got some Secret Weapon Armor Wash and Heavy Body wash for washing (filling in crevices to give a more 3d look). And I just picked up some Rhulic Gold and Molten Bronze from PP on the recommendation of a tutorial at HandCannonOnline.

A really good looking and easy way to make your bones look better is paint them with Vallejo Ivory (a sort of off white color) then wash it with Vallejo Sepia (which will turn the model a dirty white / brown) then dry brush with Games-Workshop Praxeti White.

This will give you a nice aged bone appearance and look more organic.

For your metalics, you can wash these in Games-Workshop Nuln Oil to achieve a really good 'used' metal look

Here's an example of how I do bones and also here

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74041-Electric-Handy-Drill/dp/B000J46WZ4
This is my main work horse for pinning. Works great with the 1.25 privateer drill set. So much better than doing it by hand.

This is the answer. If you've got a lot of minis, just buy a big jug of it. If your minis are plastic, this is really the only answer. Put them into a glass jar filled above their heads with SG and give it a good swishing around every 24hrs. The longer you leave it in, the easier the paint will come off. Most stuff is easily taken care of by 24-48hrs, but if your model has a lot of deep nooks and crannies you might want to consider giving it a week. But as /u/Grammar_Cowboy pointed out, you can always clean them, then throw them back in for another soak too. Of note, the SG doesn't need to be drained after each batch of minis. You can reuse a full container multiple times.

I you want to break the minis down to re-glue, re-pose, or whatever, leave them in the SG for about a week. It'll make the glue very brittle and the pieces can then be carefully snapped off and the dried glue removed with a hobby knife or needle-nose pliers (my weapon of choice).

If the minis are metal, acetone (nail polish remover) works even better. It'll strip the paint and turn the glue into a soft, almost gel-like consistency. Which can then be easily cleaned off. The only downside it acetone will literally dissolve plastic. If your minis are on a base, the base will turn into a soggy, soupy mess.

Cheapest - https://www.dollartree.com/toys/action-figures-cars/Plastic-Action-Figures-2-/629c635c635p294318/index.pro

Cheap - https://www.amazon.com/Toysmith-36-Piece-Guardian-Knights-Action/dp/B000YA7FS6

Not as cheap, but actually good miniatures and can be used for RPG stuff- http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones

The first two won't ever look nice and the paint might eventually flake off, but 36 plastic warriors for $8 is a good place to practice building up whites, painting metals, basic highlights, and different color combinations, before you slap paint on a $25 warjack.

I went the DIY route and have been happy with the outcome for a few months now.

You can purchase cuatomizeable foam from someone like Pelican. Then purchase a cheap big plastic toolbox. Cut to fit.

I picked up a badger velocity from my local hobby store for $125 - amazon link

http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-R1V-Renegade-Velocity/dp/B0013NBQLA

I picked up a compressor from the same store for $100 similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/Quiet-AIRBRUSH-TANK-COMPRESSOR-FREE-HOSE/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_23?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1346952175&sr=1-23&keywords=air+compressor

The tank on the compressor is great, I would certainly advise getting one with an air tank otherwise you can get this weird 'pulse' with tank less compressors. The first one I bought didn't have one and I returned it the first day.

My only advice if your going to be picking one up is to either be very careful when dis-asembling and cleaning or buying extra needles/nozzles as I bent my first needle within a few hours of owning it, and stepped on a nozzle which ruined it.

Assorted tank equipment
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O2ZH6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_zZeMzbZDCVBQM

Vehicle accessories
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WNCFNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_40eMzb7XYZJWD

Military pinups in case anyone else wants to turn this thing into a trencher cake
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WSUO9SO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_p1eMzbEMFMY4S

After switching between 3(!) different boxes I have settled on an Europlus container with "custom" mini boxes. https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B000QCZT8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1481003871&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Europlus&dpPl=1&dpID=419vzs6aanL&ref=plSrch

I can pre sort for euch relevant list or caster and just pour the token out. I keep my zones and 5" plate in my mini bag, the spray template fits in the container.

Casting tutorial

Mold making kit

I laminate mine

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Thermal-Laminator-Roller-TL901/dp/B0010JEJPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404758006&sr=8-1&keywords=3M+Scotch+Thermal+Laminator

I use government ID sized pouches. You can get 100 of them for 10 bucks or 500 of them 15 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-152-Insta-Set-Accelerator/dp/B00111V9NO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473440165&sr=8-5&keywords=super+glue+accelerator

To clarify, I am speaking of this 2005 release: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Kingdoms-World-Guide-Roleplaying/dp/097069704X