(Part 2) Top products from r/XTerra

The brighter halogen bulbs work well, they are the simplest plug and play option, are DOT approved, but do not last all that long. IMHO the 2 best options are the SYLVANIA 9007 XtraVision and the SYLVANIA 9007 SilverStar. They achieve their brightness by overdriving the filaments so their longevity is shorter than even the standard bulb.
http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-SilverStar-Performance-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B000M5Y72A/4&keywords=headlight+for+xterra

http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-9007-XtraVision-Halogen-Headlight/dp/B000CKGAV6/

The other option if you want brightness and better longevity go with led bulbs. They are a bit more expensive though. The ones in the link below are plug and play and have good reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/Technology-Headlight-Conversion-Halogen-3000LM/dp/B016D84VIY

I ended up going with the XtraVision bulbs and they have been good so far. Noticeably brighter than stock but not too much. I save the LED bar for when I need to light up the trail and not blind other drivers with my headlights.

Ok mobile at the moment do I can't dig too far in but here's some quick results that look like they should work.


[Scosche NN03B Wire Harness to Connect An Aftermarket Stereo Receiver for Select 1995-Up Infiniti/Nissan] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1NvCbF8GSD2Y)


[Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio Adapter for Select 2007-Up Infiniti/Nissan Vehicles] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PANZ7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4NvCbTQJXTKT)

The job was simple enough if you're familiar with wiring. Match the functions of the harness that comes with the stereo with the adapter, crimp then together and bolt it all back together.

One thing to note is that there is no ground in the factory wiring. You will need to run one separately. I'd suggest hitting a bolt to the chassis nearby to minimize any ground loops.

I'm sure you can find a good write up over at the nextera forums if you get stuck.

Another note of caution. The two metal retaining clips in the bezel love to scratch the dash. Cover it with a cloth to save the surfaces.

So, there is a little extra work involved to wire up the factory amp, but it's pretty straightforward. Basically, what you'll end up doing is using the new head units RCA pre-outs to get the signal to the RF amp (rather than use the head unit's internal amplifier). To do this, you need to get a special adapter to convert the factory harness into an RCA connect (or, you could technically attach RCA connectors to the factory wiring, but that's kind of hard to undo should you ever want to put the stock setup back in).

Anyway, here's what you need:

• Metra 99-7581 dash kit
  
• Metra 70-7551 amp integration harness
  
• Metra Axxess ASWC-1 (if you want steering wheel controls)
  
  I know Scosche (and probably others) make the dash kit, and there's a few options for steering wheel control interfaces, but I've had good luck with Metra products. For the amp harness, the Metra is the only one I could find.

I don't use a folding J-style rack but I do use J-style racks for my kayaks (2 of them) and they barely fit on the X cross bars. They attach nice and snug.

As for securing the kayaks down, I use the quick straps that came with my racks and make sure to tie them off to prevent slippage.

The farthest I've traveled with this setup is about an hour of highway driving (75 mph).

Edit: The racks I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003V57NUQ/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467757196&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

If you have a Gen2 (2005-2015) its a 19mm for lug nuts (or lugnut wrench under rear seat), 14mm for caliper bolts (think the nut on slide pin is 17mm that you might need to hold onto with a wrench if the slide pin spins), 19mm for caliper bracket bolts.

To add, you need something to compress the caliper pistons back in to fit the new pads. Variety of options, use the old brake pad and large pair of plyers or C-clamp, or you can buy a specialty tool (break pad spreader a cheap one like this works fine).

Also you will need brake clean to remove oil coating on new rotors and brake lubricant (assuming your new pads don't come with some) to regrease the slide pins.

A breaker bar or pipe can be useful to break lose the caliper bracket bolts in particular. Also you might need a hammer if the rotor is rust fused to the hub (anti-seize is useful in reassembly if you want to avoid this next time).

Lastly, bungie cords are a great cheap option to hold the caliper as you replace the rotors and pads to make sure it doesn't fall and put tension on brake line.

Your Amazon link isn't working. What you need is something like this

The hitch is fine for this use as long as you don't try to loop over a hitch ball or just use the pin. Some people will insert the strap into the receiver and just put a pin through it; this can bend the pin, it is best to use an insert like the one I linked to.

This is a quick and easy mod anyone who plans on putting their X in water over the axles should do. It takes less than 15 minutes and can save your rear diff.

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Also, not taking away business from great supporters like Gorilla and PRG, but you can get the parts to do this mod on Amazon for >$25. Just need the axle vent, a filter and 8' of hose with clamps. While you're at it, buy 2 filters and add one to the front diff vent hose that comes up behind the air box.


https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-263-Rear-Axle-Differential/dp/B00NF1S0LW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rear+axle+vent&qid=1563124009&s=gateway&sr=8-4


https://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-Clear-View-Glass-Filter/dp/B000VSDZIK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5%2F16+fuel+filter&qid=1563124185&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Really easy to do. Helps to have something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27110-Oxygen-Sensor-Socket/dp/B00062ZK5M

Get a good look at where they are, the driver side is pretty easy, but the passenger is a bit tricky because the muffler is in the way-ish

I have a Curt hitch from Amazon that is positioned just like the OEM and even has a little step on top. Amazon also has the 4-pin connector and relays required for trailer lighting.

Hey that looks nice! I just used a piece of wood and some small C-clamps on mine. I do have this floor mat for my 1 bike.

Pertinent info, a crosspost provided this insight regarding better fastening systems

Quick Fist, Quick Grips are those overpriced Irwin clamps.

Lordy, you can run a sawzall off your inverter?

I just got one of these, one of these and a cheap true temper axe and have been served well so far.

AutoLoc WC1000 One Touch Up And Down Window Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BTQMW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K1h9Ab9T955BA

Maybe this will answer all questions, and if so, I want to do this mod.

Add one of these to the mirror. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00029WVIS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

I think u/AntMan79 is referring to these: https://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-Wrangler-Radial-Tire-75R15/dp/B004QL66XO/

I’m not exactly what where the leak is your seeing but if you pull the 4 bolts that hold the rear main seal and the two oil pan bolts you can re do that gasket area mating those together. Be aware it is partly rubber seal and partly rtv in that specific area. I am not sure weather the rubber part is reusable. I replaced mine when I did it.

Beck Arnley 034-0775 Oil Pan... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CAYZQS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Here is the rubber seals I used on my wife’s 04 frontier. 3.3l same engine

Getting the the ball joint detached from the spindle is a pain. I bought this and it helped a lot:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O

I ended up replacing the entire LCA as another user mentioned. With an '08, you'd probably need a reciprocating saw to cut them off if you went that route.