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Capacitors can definitely be real troublemakers sometimes. I haven't recapped a C64 specifically but I can give a few general tips on replacing them:

• Commodore 64 uses what are called through-hole capacitors, which as the name implies means the leads go through a hole in the motherboard and are soldered on the back. Some C64's have it easy to reach the back of the motherboard and other C64's have an RF shield soldered to it. Either way, you'll need to get the old caps off by desoldering them. For desoldering through-hole stuff, I really like this desoldering gun. It might be a little more than you're willing to spend if this is the only thing you're planning on recapping, but it's a great tool to have in your arsenal. If that's too much you can just use a regular soldering iron to heat up the solder point and pull out one leg of the capacitor while the solder is molten, then get the other one.
  
  
• As for replacing the capacitors themselves, there are two numbers you need to care about. Fortunately these are always labelled on the capacitor itself. You should make sure your new caps have the same Microfarad (μF) number as what you're replacing, but the Voltage rating can be the same or higher. If you don't wanna hunt down the caps on your own, there are cheap C64 capacitor kits you can buy.
  
  
• Check the area around the capacitors for any kind of corrosion. If you find any, clean it off with 99% isopropyl alcohol and if the alcohol leaves any residue (which it shouldn't but sometimes you move old dirt around) purified water is good for getting the rest off. Just make absolutely sure to dry everything before you solder and before you power anything up.
  
  Overall replacing caps isn't hard or scary. I'd recommend watching some videos of people doing it on Youtube to see what the process looks like, though I don't have any specific recommends on which videos. I watched a ton before my first recap project just to get a feel for what to expect.

> Nice monitor stand.

I found this on Amazon and it works perfectly for these smaller CRTs. I might end up grabbing a few more for my other old school machines. The little tray for documentation is great. Additionally the little notch on the back of the Commodore 64c case slides under it perfectly, so when I'm done I can slide it back and it's a nice little snug fit.

For power supplies, I've had good luck with Commodore4Ever (https://commodore4ever.net/collections/power-supplies/products/commodore-64-vic-20-power-supply-atom-retro?variant=29735132725312).

For video cables, provided your monitor/tv has RCA or SVideo, you can try 8bitclassics.com (https://www.8bitclassics.com/product/c64-svideo/). Getting those attached to HDMI is a bit more challenging (and expensive). It looks like the RetroTink (http://retrotink.com), or the OSSC (https://www.videogameperfection.com/products/open-source-converter/) are the "Cadillac" options. I opted for a "cheap" SVideo to HDMI converter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CY34ZQA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_QGeuDbCFBY6VF), which is servicable, but there is a slight video lag that I find annoying.

If you don't have your original drive or floppy disks (or if your floppy disks have degraded over time like some of mine), you might also explore some drive emulation options. The more affordable approach is an SD2IE device (https://www.c64-wiki.com/wiki/SD2IEC). If you're a bit of a tinkerer, you could look at the Pi1541 (https://cbm-pi1541.firebaseapp.com). And the Cadillac solution is the Ultimate2+ Cartridge (https://ultimate64.com/Ultimate2Plus_Red_Tape). I don't have any experience with the SD2IE or Pi1541 options, but I do have the Ultimate2+ cartridge, and can't recommend it highly enough if you have the budget (and it is spendy).

Alternatively, if you have the budget, and are looking for a non-purist, but convenient solution, you could look at the Ultimate 64 (https://ultimate64.com/Ultimate-64). It's an FPGA implementation of the C=64 using all modern components, and has native HDMI out, support for the original peripherals, as well as implementing all the niceties of the Ultimate2+ cartridge -- it's made by the same folks. I also have one of these, and can also not recommend it highly enough. You could drop it into your original case, or put it into a brand-new case from PixelWizard (https://shop.pixelwizard.eu/en/commodore-c64/36/c64c-case-breadbin-gray).

I put my U64 into a new PixelWizard case, but used an original C=64 breadbin keyboard for EBay. Using vintage parts for this purpose does give me the heebie-jeebies a bit... but at least *I* didn't pull it from a system. LOL

I used these when refurbishing a keyboard with corroded springs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076MGMWYP

The original springs fit loosely on the plastic top plate; these are tighter, but basically a perfect fit on my board. YMMV

​

These better match the OEM dimensions, but I haven't tried them:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-0-4mmx12mmx15mm-Stainless-Compression-Springs/dp/B076LN8SMZ/

C64 has two different ports you can use to output video and audio. These are the RF port and the Video port (see here).

Easiest way is to use an RCA cable with an RCA to Coaxil converter plugged into the cable/antenna jack of your TV.

Alternatively, you could also use a C64 video to composite cable but you need to be careful. The three composite cables that come out of that usually don't correspond to the modern "video, left audio, right audio" that we are use to. They correspond to "chroma, luma, and audio".

That means if you want to get a clear picture, you would have to combine the chroma and luma into one signal using something like this.

If you go with the second option, make sure you know what cable is what before plugging them in. You can very easily fry your sound chip (SID chip) if you have the wrong cable plugged in.

Also, never "hot swap" cables. The C64 is very sensitive. Make sure all cables are plugged in before you turn it on. I fried my SID chip on my first C64 and it's like a $50 part to replace.

The easiest way I've found is to use a coaxial input and one of these micro-adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Go-27312-Adapter/dp/B0002J25OI/ref=pd_sim_23_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RH7CJN5TWCVEBA6GW1WP

They seem to work better than the old switchboxes or trying to get a component modulator to work or whatever else.

10 PRINT CHR$(205.5+RND(1)); : GOTO 10<br />

A famous C64 one liner. There's a fun book all about it.

Ebay or Amazon

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/5-1-4-floppy-disk

http://www.amazon.com/3m-Ds-dd-10-Diskettes/dp/B001USTK6G

What's wrong playing Wastland though a emulator? This is the Dos version played in Dosbox https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_gPe036iK0&list=PLA85F6FB139739583

These people do

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07GMV1X1K

Maybe you've heard of them ;)

Yes, there is a difference between PAL and NTSC SVideo. Older monitors, especially CRTs, are less likely to support both (though at least some of Commodore's CRTs were dual-sync). The 2001FP is an LCD, and so I suspect supporting PAL was no harder than supporting NTSC.

On a related note, another option might be to get an SVideo to HDMI converter. I haven't tested this, but I suspect that many of these devices will work with both PAL and NTSC SVideo. The reviews for this unit on Amazon suggest that it works with PAL or NTSC. Again, I haven't tested this, so buy at your own risk.

I made my own by buying two buck modules like these (https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-LM2596-Converter-3-0-40V-1-5-35V/dp/B01GJ0SC2C/) and wiring +9VDC and +5VDC. I then put them in a 3D printed case I designed and powered the input side of the modules with a generic AC/DC PSU (https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Wireless/dp/B073WSWT34) that had enough capacity to drive everything (3A).

http://i.imgur.com/qx7m0K6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/tsiMTID.jpg

The only downside is it doesn't provide 9VAC, which is needed for the RTC and possibly some peripherals.

The regulators were $4, 3D material $1-$5, PSU $9. The wire was probably $1 and the grommet $1. I salvaged the power connector (DIN 45329) and soldered into it, but you may be able to find those for $2 (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN-Neutrik/NYS323G?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvf6myxbP4FpHeA2rMiar4t9tRsaFKojIY%3D)

Total cost: time + $18 to $22 + development costs (failed 3D cases, buying some items in bulk)

https://www.amazon.com/Commodore-64-Plug-Play/dp/B0007A2HI6

Mediabridge Flex Series Double-Shielded Coax with an StarTech RCACOAXMF RCA to F Type Coaxial Adapter M/F at the Commodore side.

Cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Coaxial-Cable-F-Male-Connectors/dp/B00EYFM3F2

Adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-RCACOAXMF-Type-Coaxial-Adapter/dp/B003K1V99C

http://www.amazon.com/dp/088110213X

Although many C64 machines continue to work flawlessly, there is a probability that the original hardware will fail. So, when you buy a machine, make sure it actually works and that all the keys on the keyboard work well.

Eventually chips may fail. The usual suspects are the two CIA chips, the PLA chip, memory chips and perhaps even the SID (sound) and VIC (video) chips. You'll have to replace them if they fail. Note that Commodore produced cost reduced main boards towards the end of the C64's lifespan, which are not 100% the same as the ones that came before.

C64 reloaded is a C64 board you can buy which allows you to insert legacy c64 chips in a new main board.

Ultimate64 is an FPGA based 'implementation' of the original c64 hardware. Doesn't need any legacy hardware, but is a full working C64

1541Ultimate is a 1541 disk drive and tape emulator that slots into your C64 (much like the sd2iec)

Ray Carlsen is a great resource for hardware related things.

The original PSU has a tendency to fail. Failure of the PSU can fry chips in your C64. There are modern PSU's to prevent that from happening, or you can get a 'power saver' which serves the purpose of protecting your c64 from PSU failures.

Mapping the c64 Learn this and you know everything there is to know about your C64 hardware. It's a lot to take in.

Mapping the C64 the book This books is also essential, together with Commodore's "Programmer's reference guide"

Programmer's Reference Guide You need this

Welcome to the world of C64, have a nice journey.

I used this power supply from Amazon, It's more than enough power if you are using to use uIEC, Wifi Modems, and Easy Flash and an Atari power supply. (Yes, you read that right.. The Atari power supply also shows a slightly higher voltage under no load.) I've been using this supply for a month+ with no issues.