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Ive had trouble keeping coolant temps under control at idle for years with electric fans. I had a 3 row 20 inch radiator anda 16 inch fan (fairly weak auto parts store no-name brand) With a rich carb setting it was marginal and would hover around 190 in traffic. I since upgraded to an edelbrock pro-flo 4 system (I can do a detailed write up if anyone is interested) and found it harder to control temps - probably because it wasnt pig rich like the carb. I decided to fix it once and for all.

I used a 24 inch aluminum radiator from Amazon. ($138)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K33X2JK/

and the fan system from a ford contour - you could get this from a junkyard but I bought a new one also from amazon

its a Dorman 620-104

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C17G9K/

Now these fans pull a lot of current, so not shown in the photo is the relay configuration I used and the pigtail connectors. The fan system has a resistor built into it for low speed fan operation. High speed operation is full battery 12V. So I build system with two high amp relays (over 50A). The first relay is a standard single pole single throw relay. When the first temp threshold is hit this one closes and sends battery voltage through to the 2nd relay. The 2nd relay is a single pole double throw and when its not triggered the Normally closed contact sends the battery voltage through the resistor to the parralel wired fans. This is "low speed" - when only relay #1 is triggered. When I reach a higher temp (or if you have A/C you could use that to trigger high speed) then I trip relay #2 and this sends the battery voltage around the resistor to give the fans full power. I used 10 gauge wire because apparently both fans at full power can pull over 30 amps and when they first speed up can peak even more. I havnt measured that but I sized my relays and wires and connectors for those current levels to be sure. If anyone is interested I can show the relays and pigtails I used but it all works great.

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Best part is that low speed fans are enough to keep the whole thing rock solid at 180 highest I saw was 181 - with the low fan speed. I set high speed to come on at 188 but I never got close to that except from when I was burping air out of the system when I first fired it up. Maybe on a 100deg day in the summer I will see what happens but it wasnt cold when I tested it - around 75F and hood closed, transmission in drive etc...

I've seen a few builds here and there that lean towards Vintage Trans Am. The book linked below might be a good help. A lot of great information and pictures on early Trans Am cars.

The Cars of Trans-Am Racing:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/1613250517?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN7CEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mWd4DbNGS2DX9

These aren't the right size but you'll definitely be able to find the right size or a drill to make one. Polyurethane would help out a lot on terms of dry rot

Stainless braided is different than a solid line. Solid is a a metal tube. Something like this, although you only need a few feet, not 25
https://www.amazon.com/ft-Roll-Zinc-Plated-Tubing/dp/B015YGR1NI

Thanks! Is this the correct spec tool?
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27062-Ford-Inch-Primer/dp/B0049OE8ZG/ref=asc_df_B0049OE8ZG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312844081654&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4152122611240655687&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033458&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-421535660130&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Price went up but it's still worth it

buy the same one again and get a spare to carry in the car. if you ever need to change your fuel pump get the original style pump for a 65 with the big integrated cartridge filter. https://www.amazon.com/Carter-M4009-Mechanical-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000BZZ6S0/

carburetor

Lots of good stuff already said. Any gas in the tank (or the rest of the system) is likely bad. There's a drain plug on the tank but that's usually stuck. You'll have to figure out how to drain that.

Check all your belts and hoses, rubber don't like to sit.

I believe there's a way to manually circulate oil via the pump so you don't have to crank, but you'll need this tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Pump-Primer-Tools-FORD-Engine/dp/B00ASAQAH4