(Part 3) Top products from r/fightsticks

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We found 27 product mentions on r/fightsticks. We ranked the 204 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/fightsticks:

u/deltat9 · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

TL;DR -- I did not use a primer, and I did completely paint the inside and outside of both panels. No fitment issues, only issue due to extra thickness from the paint was the screws struggling a little bit during re-installation.

Satin Black

Satin Clear

Those are the paints I used. I did not use a primer. I went with satin on both because I was after a matte look like the main black body on the stick. I didn't want them glossy like the original white panels. I did paint the entire surface of the panels. The only thing I noticed was the screws struggled a little bit during re-installation but that was to be expected and really wasn't an issue. I didn't and haven't noticed any other fitment issues from the paint.

For preparation, all I did was wash the panels to remove any dirt/oils and then used the finest sandpaper I had on hand to sand/scuff up both panels to help the paint stick better.

If I remember correctly, I did two (maybe three? sorry it was a while ago) coats of each the black paint and the clear top coat. You will want to spray a good distance away from the panel you're painting, at least 8-10 inches, and nice smooth motions, you kind of want the paint to fall onto the panel lightly, if that makes sense. It helps to avoid runs and imperfections.

I used a paper clip in the screw holes to help me manipulate and hold the panel up as I was spraying so I avoided finger prints and also keep it propped up during drying so it didn't stick to the cardboard box I was using. Between coats check the entire panel for runs or clumps and if there are any, wet-sand those areas smooth with the finest grit sandpaper you have before you apply the next coat.

Once I was satisfied with the look/finish, I let it dry for 72 hours. I just wanted to be sure that everything was DRY before securing them back on the stick. Obviously, you can still use the stick during this, it just looks weird without the panels.

Doing it this way was not 100% ideal or correct I'm sure, I'm not a painter and haven't had much experience with it to be honest. There are one or two imperfections, which I suppose I could wet-sand and repaint, but I don't notice them. They are small, and i don't feel like doing that process again for one or two small imperfections. I am very happy with the look and outcome of the little project and happy I did it. They look so much better black than they did white.

Hopefully this post is of some help. Good luck, you will be very happy you did it. It is worth it, the stick looks so much better.

u/yoimdumbsry · 1 pointr/fightsticks

I like to use this cable. Has been working perfectly fine for me and is probably easier than a custom USB cable. If you really wanted to though, you could buy that cable and splice it with the one you have. Just make sure to look up USB extension cable limits before making a really long one. They need powered hubs at a certain length.

u/Mr_Trecker · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

Yes, Hori's Hayabusa buttons and joysticks are just as good as Sanwa parts, and feel only marginally different. Hori joystick has a slightly lighter touch than a Sanwa, but it's not something you'd notice since you're coming from a lower quality joystick - either one will feel very sensitive at first.

Just make sure you aren't getting an older RAP with Hori's older Kuro buttons, which are less good. And if you're willing to spend the extra ~20 Euros, I'd go for the RAP N: it's has a larger, heftier, better (IMO) case design, and a headphone port.
https://www.amazon.de/Hori-Real-Arcade-Pro-PlayStation/dp/B0764DYT7P/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=&qid=1550087291&sr=8-1

u/fuzeebear · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

I've noticed that Hori stuff just feels a little cheap, and I say this even though the Hayabusa is my favorite joystick.

The VLX premium feels kinda cheap too, to be honest. Or rather it sounds cheap because the case resonates so loudly. I dampened the sound by lining the inside of the case with an adhesive polyurethane foam sheet, and it made a huge positive difference.

Edit: the sheet I used is here, I just made a paper template of the faceplate, then flipped it and cut out the sheet so that there's room to remove the buttons and joystick.

u/teIeute · 1 pointr/fightsticks

I used the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BDMJSY/

TBH, I mostly used it cause the archeology lab in my department happened to have it lying around and one was about to expire. I would have soldered the connections but that would have required drilling two tiny holes into each buttons to gain access and I was feeling lazy. That would have been a more reversible option, which I honestly wish I did just in case I want to change the switches out in the future.

u/voxxx · 1 pointr/fightsticks

I was gifted a ps3 madcatz te stick years ago but I wasn’t interested in fighting games so it has just been collecting dust for all these years. With the release of dbfz I’m finally using it. I’m currently playing the pc version and the stick works fine in game. Is there any reason to upgrade or any advantages a modern stick has over a regular tr stick?

this is the stick I have at the moment

u/Onimward · 1 pointr/fightsticks

It's not been sold yet. I'll get you pics if you want, but honestly, it's going to look like the stock pics. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDYMPR0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

No product box, but the stick is stock, and you get the connector cable.

u/enkidomark · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

Drill a really small (1/8" or so) pilot hole for precision, then use a 24mm forsner bit. A spade bit (what's in the other video) could do it, but it's a little imprecise and not usually very sharp, so more risk of tearing or breaking rather than cutting, which would suck a bunch on the TE body. I think you'll find room to sink a 24mm button on there. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-240-31-Forstner-64-Inch-Diameter/dp/B000P4LLDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519990833&sr=8-1&keywords=24mm+forstner+bit

u/thephantomnaut · 1 pointr/fightsticks

Yeah they sadly don't sell the cables themselves. While I can't verify these are compatible, some folks are selling cables on Amazon (1, 2). Might have to take a leap of faith.

u/LovingShmups · 1 pointr/fightsticks

wow.... 12 USD for the transport ... oh Jesus.... :-(

I spoke again with a friend who is a fan of joysticks : The superlub is really good for this case.You can also check with silicon grease...
Some people use Tamiya grease (for RC Cars ...i know it's strange but it works).

https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Grease-3-type-Most-Japan/dp/B00LQ0C6JG

Again, it's not cheap....

u/AedandoRL · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

Sure thing!

These are the RJ45 heads I bought off of amazon.

These are the 6ft USB A-B cables I bought off of amazon.

This is the crimp tool I used.

If something isn't working, give me some pics and I can try to give some guidance or make a video tutorial.

u/hyp36rmax · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

Ah ok! Amazon: AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to B-Male Braided Cable with Lighted Ends - 6 Feet

And for the sake of it you can also check Pexon-PC's for custom braided cables. No LED's though.

u/howsyourdaddy · 1 pointr/fightsticks

No need a second Neutrik for that, get a cover instead. Amazon link

u/Gotmilkfunb · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

The MadCatz Fight Stick Alpha features a six button layout, and is portable/mod-able. From what I understand, you can just clip the buttons out that are hardwired, add quick connects to the ends of the clipped wires, then just add your Sanwa buttons in that way.

https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-FightStick-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-4/dp/B018HXA6H8