This looks great. One thing I'd recommend from a code perspective is to remove all the functions and store the mapping in a dictionary since your modifier is always the same. It should make it a bit more readable and maintainable if you ever want to move stuff around. I haven't done Python in a while so I'm guessing this won't work quite right, but something like:

Before installing ensure you have python and pip loaded

# Install evdev with 'sudo pip install evdev'<br />
# Install pyautogui with 'sudo pip install pyautogui'<br />
# Based on the concept at https://www.instructables.com/id/Wireless-UGS-Pendant/<br />
# and https://www.reddit.com/r/linux/comments/8geyru/diy_linux_macro_board/<br />
<br />
# Keypad used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TX57HR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1<br />
<br />
import os<br />
from evdev import InputDevice, categorize, ecodes<br />
import pyautogui <br />
<br />
# Event 5 is associated with the 10-key<br />
# Find this with 'cat /proc/bus/input/devices'<br />
dev = InputDevice('/dev/input/event5')<br />
# Grab the 10-key so it's input is only read by this program<br />
dev.grab()<br />
<br />
# Define actions<br />
# These keyboard shortcuts need to be enteres into your favorite<br />
# GCODE sender.  I use Universal GCODE Sender on my RPi<br />
# You can change these shortcuts to any other combination you like,<br />
# I found that the SHIFT-CTRL-ALT series was mostly unused<br />
mapping = {<br />
    # State<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP0&quot;: &quot;l&quot;, # unlock<br />
    &quot;KEY_ESC&quot;: &quot;i&quot;, # cancel       <br />
    &quot;KEY_TAB&quot;: &quot;o&quot;, # pause<br />
    &quot;KEY_EQUAL&quot;: &quot;p&quot;, # send program<br />
    &quot;KEY_DELETE&quot;: &quot;M&quot;, # connect<br />
<br />
    # XYZ<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP1&quot;: &quot;n&quot;, # home<br />
<br />
    # XY<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP2&quot;: &quot;h&quot;, # xy zero<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP9&quot;: &quot;1&quot;, # xymult10<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP7&quot;: &quot;2&quot;, # xydiv10<br />
<br />
    # X<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPSLASH&quot;: &quot;x&quot;, # reset x<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP4&quot;: &quot;a&quot;, # xjogneg<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP6&quot;: &quot;d&quot;, # xjogpos<br />
<br />
    # Y<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPASTERISK&quot;: &quot;c&quot;, # reset y<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP5&quot;: &quot;s&quot;, # yjogneg<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP8&quot;: &quot;w&quot;, # yjogpos<br />
    <br />
    # Z<br />
    &quot;KEY_KP3&quot;: &quot;z&quot;, # reset z<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPMINUS&quot;: &quot;r&quot;, # z jogneg<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPPLUS&quot;: &quot;f&quot;, # z jogpos<br />
    &quot;KEY_BACKSPACE&quot;: &quot;3&quot;, # z inc<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPENTER&quot;: &quot;4&quot;, # z dec<br />
    &quot;KEY_KPDOT&quot;: &quot;v&quot;, # probe z<br />
<br />
    # Feed<br />
    &quot;KEY_LEFT&quot;: &quot;6&quot;, # dec jog rate<br />
    &quot;KEY_RIGHT&quot;: &quot;5&quot;, # inc jog rate<br />
    &quot;KEY_DOWN&quot;: &quot;y&quot;, # feed reset<br />
    &quot;KEY_END&quot;: &quot;t&quot;, # feed dec<br />
    &quot;KEY_PAGEDOWN&quot;: &quot;u&quot;, # feed inc<br />
<br />
    # Unused<br />
    &quot;KEY_HOME&quot;: &quot;&quot;, # none<br />
    &quot;KEY_UP&quot;: &quot;&quot;, # none<br />
    &quot;KEY_PAGEUP&quot;: &quot;&quot;, # none<br />
    &quot;KEY_INSERT&quot;: &quot;&quot; # none<br />
}<br />
<br />
def send(key):<br />
    pyautogui.hotkey('ctrl', 'alt', 'shift', key)<br />
<br />
# Start reading input from the keyboard<br />
for event in dev.read_loop():<br />
    if event.type == ecodes.EV_KEY:<br />
    key = categorize(event)<br />
    # For troubleshooting, feel free to remove<br />
    print(key.keycode)<br />
    # If a key is pressed<br />
    if key.keystate == key.key_down:<br />
        # Set keyname to the keycode<br />
        # Could have used the numerical key nodes and a switch statement<br />
        # But this is more readable<br />
        keyname = key.keycode<br />
        character = mapping[keyname]<br />
        if character:<br />
            send(character)<br />
        else:<br />
            print(&quot;unknown command: &quot;, keyname)

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  
  And here's the part list!
  
  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  :---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

That sounds like a cool project, can I ask what features are being added with IOT integration? I assume the loadbank is for testing the generators?

Here's a pretty good motor control video that explains the basics. If you post a picture of the diagram I can probably help you with the connection, it might even already be correct.

I'm used to magnetic motor starters so that's what I suggested but for such a small motor you can probably get away with a horsepower rated 3 pole switch like this and skip the overloads.

I make signs (including nameplates), and stuff for a small etsy shop I have on the side. I've found that typically, harder woods machine better. I make nameplates for people out of Walnut or Maple usually. Also, I find that using a 60 degree bit for smaller lettering looks really nice.

The nameplates I make are 9in x 3in, and 3/8in thick. I also make a stand for them out of a contrasting wood (if I use maple for the nameplate, I make the stand out of walnut). The stand allows me to set the nameplate at an angle if it will be displayed on a desk.

Here's the bit I use: Amazon Link

Let me know if you have any questions!

Here's a video of it actually cutting (Same music, mute for sanity).

There are very few "DIY thing for very few dollars!" videos that are actually honest, like from the ground up with no existing or salvaged materials (one counter-example I saw is an FPV drone setup for $300, thanks China!).

He said he salvaged the motors from an industrial printer, which cuts down on the cost dramatically. In the comments he says "Only thing i ordered online is the arduino and the stepper motor drive". So he probably sourced all the metal and bearings locally for cheap.

Looks like the Makita trim router he's using is coming up as ~$117 for me. I doubt that's included in the cost.

Make sure the collet matches the tool too. I bought a cheap set like this on Amazon and a spare nut. I keep the one nut on the 1/8" collet and one on the 1/4" collet and very rarely use any other diameter

Smoke detector might give you lots of false alarms based on the nature of how they work and that dust collection isn’t 100%.

You put a smoke detector in there and you will end up taking it out. There are however heat detectors, they can be a set temp or a rate-of-rise type and they don’t care about dust for activation. Just as an example.


Someone smarter than me could probably tell you how you could to integrate it with a raspberry pi and a relay, or maybe even a more simple method??

For most woods, you will want to use a 2 flute straight bit. You won't have enough sfm to use a spiral fluted endmill. I like this one.

Amana Tool 45210 Straight Plunge 1/4-Inch Diameter by 1-Inch Cutting Height by 1/4-Inch Shank Carbide Tipped Router Bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJPR46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ciyOBb0K6DWDQ

Btw, I got one of these for Xmas this year and I'm itching to try it out - https://www.amazon.com/CMT-665-171-11-V-Grooving-Signmaking-Diameter/dp/B00QUWSEYG/ref=sr_1_2

Unlike the Amana insert bit, the CMT incorporates insert alignment into the bit itself.

I did a bunch of trivets in 2013 with the Amana bit with excellent results. I should still have the files somewhere if you want.

I suggest these instead. Winston Moy makes some good points about using these in the added video.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcdAnUnX59s

I cannot vouch for the quality but I would look for something like this.

Unfortunately I think a palm router would be too big and a kress spindle is too expensive. For PCB isolation milling and light duty cutting 300W (or 150W at 24v) should be plenty. With a 24V power supply you should be able to get around 5000-6000 rpm. With an ER-11 collet holder you can go up to 7mm shank tools.

Good luck

Amazon, it is a 20 AMP Leviton Switch ...

Switch

Switch Plate

CNC is definitely not a set-it-and-forget-it type of machine. And getting toolpaths (CAM) right is tough.
Winston Moy does a good job of showing his mistakes and various problems of workholding, fixturing, and when good toolpaths go bad https://www.youtube.com/user/krayvis

There are a few things that can go wrong... in my personal experience, workholding is #1 but that depends on what shape and type of materials you are using. I have a XCarve, a Nomad 883, a Tormach mill, a Tormach CNC lathe, a Epilog laser cutter, and a couple 3D printers. They each have their own qwirks of motion controllers.
The Xcarve was by far the worse.. a web based GCode sender alone with a faulty motion controller made for many crashed workpieces and jammed endmills causing lots of chaos. A new motion controller and a home built controller fixed that. I'd suspect the newer models of Xcarve/Shapeoko are better? But my point is they aren't a laser printer.
If you are working in wood, each has their own issues - - some of the nicest and easiest cutting is with MDF type of product that doesn't have a grain and is consistent, but the dust issue needs to be managed with a vacuum system and exhaust or a dust collector like https://www.amazon.com/Oneida-Air-Systems-Cyclone-Separator/dp/B002GZLCHM
There are knockoffs of "dust deputy's" for $25 and you can glue and screw them to a Home Depot pail, or you can just vacuum directly but MDF dust chokes filters and bags really quick.

Overall, with my wood and metal CNC's, I probably spend 3x the time watching them than I do designing in the computer - best case. Sometimes a couple hours designing and CAMing, and the rest of the day babysitting the machines.

I have a piece of mdf with holes drilled in it and T-nuts on the back side.
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-180297-Pronged-100-Pack/dp/B000H61YF2/ref=sr_1_1/180-7989447-8305100?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1468022702&sr=1-1

I printed a bunch of hold downs on my printer and use 1/4 20 bolts to hold my part.

I'm just using a standard piano hinge.

https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N265-371-Continuous-Nickel/dp/B000BPB2OW/

You need a metal brake of some kind to do that. These parts are small enough that if you've got a vise with a wide enough throat and you used aluminum instead of steel, you could use a vise mounted brake which is an order of magnitude cheaper than a stand-alone brake.

Your tooling is the problem here. Compression bits are for cuts that go all the way through the material. They have an upshear flute at the bottom, and the top of it is a downshear flute. In this case, you're not going deep enough to get past the upshear part of the flute and you're getting tear-out.

What you really want to use here is a downshear bit. Something like this.