(Part 2) Top products from r/homeautomation

I too am starting out and evaluating Home Automation solutions.

BASIC HOME AUTOMATION ARCHITECTURE

The Basic Home Automation Architecture, independent of a specific technology stack, entails:

1. CENTRAL CONTROLLING SOFTWARE.

The controlling software might be:

• Installed on your PC. For example HomeSeer's HS2;
  
• Implemented as firmware on a dedicated hardware device supplied by the manufacturer. For example Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite or HomeSeer's HomeTroller-SE; or
  
• Running on a mini PC you build for the purpose. For example running HomeSeer's HS2 on a Intel NUC Kit DC3217IYE.
  
  As for Raspberry PI ... Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite runs on its own dedicated Linux box. I don't know of any Home Control Software that is offered as Linux Software only. A Raspberry Pi, although a linux platform, therefore wouldn't seem to be a solution to work with Mi Casa Verde.
  
  HomeSeer HS2 only supports windows. HomeSeer HS3, the next software version to be released, is meant to support Linux (in addition to windows). So although Raspberry PI does not support Windows and does not run WINE, perhaps HomeSeer's HS3 will run on it. Or maybe Raspberry PI is not powerful enough.
  
  This software that (centrally) controls your devices is exposed to you as a web interface for setup, direct device control, scripting scenarios, and monitoring power. So the web interface works in a similar fashion to the web interface your router exposes.
  
  2. HARDWARE TO RUN YOUR CENTRAL CONTROLLING SOFTWARE.
  
  See above.
  
  3. PROTOCOL INTERFACE HARDWARE
  
  Either:
  
  
• As an additional piece of hardware, like Homesetting's Zwave USB Controller's or (preferred) Aeon Labs Z-Wave Z-Stick Series 2 USB Dongle. This will plug into whatever hardware is running your (central) controlling software; or
  
• Built into the Central Controlling Hardware Unit (e.g. Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite has a built in Protocol Interface for Z-wave).
  
  There are many Home Automation Protocols. These include Insteon, KNX, UPB, X10, Zigbee, Z-Wave. Z-Wave seems to be emerging as the most popular. X-10 seems to be dying. HomeSeer supports, with an accompanying Hardware Protocol "Interface", all of the protocols except for Zigbee and KNX. Mi Casa Verde supports (built-in) Z-Wave only.
  
  Z-Wave is cool because it is: wireless; mesh (proximate nodes in the network can make distant nodes accessible to the Central Controller that otherwise would not be); and has many cool products already available.
  
  4. END USE DEVICES.
  
  This includes switches (in wall or plug in), motion detectors, lights, cameras, etc. These end use devices support one protocol. That is, one of Insteon, KNX, UPB, X10, Zigbee, Z-Wave, etc.
  
  Aeotec (also referenced as "Aeon Labs") has several cool Z-wave products.
  
  CONTROLLING YOUR FAN
  
  > It makes it look like you can put this behind a regular, non-zwave switch... after which both that switch and the zwave switch can turn a light on and off.
  
  > Could this be used inside the light fixture of a ceiling fan? I'd like to be able to use the chain, and those are simple toggle (mechanical) switches as well.
  
  I don't have the personal experience to verify all this but it looks like the product you linked to is one of three types of Aeotec Aeon Labs "In-Wall Z-Wave Control"s. The three being:
  
  
• "Micro Smart Dimmer", for lights.
  
• "MIcro Smart Switch", for your power outlets (for any appliance including plug in lights). This seems to be the product you linked to.
  
• "Micro Smart Motor Controller", which presumably will be suited for fan control (???). This is said to be able to "Open/Close control via Z-Wave, manual wall switch, and/or built-in button". So I see no reason why you couldn't just pull the chain to override whatever Z-wave commands you had previously sent (but someone with personal experience needs to chime in here).
  
  WHICH HOME AUTOMATION SOLUTION?
  
  I'm tossing up between Mi Casa Verde's VeraLite and a HomeSeer Solution. Edit: But a Raspberry Pi solution needs looking into. That has the potential to blow these competitors out of the water.
  
  Mi Casa Verde is much cheaper, a little more open in broad terms, has an outstanding user created and free Android Client (AutHomationHD), and sufficient energy monitoring options. But it has has poor documentation, messy security issues, scripting deficiencies (mitigated by user created plug-ins).
  
  HomeSeer is expensive, a little bit closed in broad terms (they don't like you talking about competitor's products in their forums for example), doesn't yet have a polished native Android Client (they do have an Android solution that works), energy monitoring I have yet to research, relatively good documentation (but could be improved), apparently solid security solutions (more research by me required), and good scripting/programming options.
  
  HomeSeer uses exposes a .Net and .Aspx Api which I favour. Mi Casa Verde exposes "Luup (Lua-UPnP) is Mi Casa Verde’s new software engine which incorporates Lua, a popular scripting language, and UPnP, the industry standard way to control devices." http://wiki.mios.com/index.php/Luup_Intro. I'd never heard of this "popular scripting language" before. I'm loathe to learn a new one (on top of those I do know or am learning).
  
  http://www.smartthings.com/ requires a connection to the cloud. I don't like that as a requirement. For security reasons I'd like to be able to either have the option to disable remote access or have remote access with my own certificates. Cloud solutions make it easy, moreover, for companies to subscribe your arse.
  
  As for the Protocol, I'm set on Z-wave. I intend to purchase Aetoc:
  
  
• Z-stick, as the Hardware Protocol Interface; and
  
• Several Z-Wave Plug-In Switch Controllers;
  
  HOLD OFF FOR 3 - 6 MONTHS?
  
  It might be prudent to wait for 3 to 6 months to see how the Home Automation scene will shake out:
  
  
• HomeSeer is yet to release it's HS3 which is a substantial rewrite. It might be worth letting that release stabilise.
  
• Google might be in the wings ready to pounce with its Android @ Home solution. But I worry about any Google solution requiring a cloud connection.
  
• Mi Casa Verde might get its act together with respect to documentation and security issues.
  
• Another company might come along and do it right.
  
  Aeotec have yet to release their LED Bulb which will be: directly controlled (wirelessly with Z-wave); dimmable; and variable over the full colour spectrum. While there is no need to wait for this to setup a Home Automation System I would hold off on those parts of the lighting solution. For example I wouldn't bother installing light wall switches or buying a Phillips Hue setup.
  
  At the moment there exists no Home Automation company/solution that does it right. It therefore remains wide open as a opportunity for: an open source project; a business started by some tech savy entrepreneur.
  
  EDITS
  
  Edit 01: A shit load of editing and tidying up ... still ongoing.
  
  Edit 02: Under "WHICH HOME AUTOMATION SOLUTION?" Added explicit mention of which protocol I intend to get: Z-Wave.
  
  Edit 03: But a Raspberry Pi solution needs looking into. That has the potential to blow these competitors out of the water.
  
  Edit 04: Formatted the parts of Basic Home Automation Architecture into subheadings.
  
  Edit 05: Added info about the Central Controlling Software exposing a web interface. Added info about end use devices only supporting one protocol.

Hey /u/adrojono,

Thought I could help and also offer some clarification on the patent question you had.

As /u/fastlerner mentioned, Philips Hue bulbs aren't meant to be put on a smart switch, but rather controlled from their app (or if you have their bridge paired to your HUB, you can control from your HUB -- either way, it's meant to be controlled remotely vs physically).

There are some other options for you. Philips Hue was actually one of my first smart home purchases and I love their bulbs. I use a couple of things to manually control them:

• They have a remote switch that you can use: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS
  
  
• Inovelli switch (Disclaimer: I'm the owner lol)
  
  The remote works fantastic and I still have them up around the house to control the dim levels of the bulbs. It pairs directly to the Hue bridge and you can dim up/down and also set favorite scenes (I believe... I just use it for dim up/down).
  
  The Inovelli switches (I have the old version bc the new one is still in testing, but it will have the same features) allow you to disable the internal relay and also send a Z-Wave Scene Command to your HUB (Please note: You have to have a HUB that supports Z-Wave for this as the Hue Bridge is ZigBee -- I'm assuming since you mentioned you have a GE 14294 switch that you do have a Z-Wave enabled HUB).
  
  How this works is that you would install the Inovelli switch, disable the internal relay (so when you tap the switch off, it does not physically cut power to the light bulb), and then set up your scenes to control the Hue bulb.
  
  To give you an example -- my daughters love their color lights and likes to go to bed with different colors each night, so the setup is as follows:
  
  
• Tap UP 1x = Turns Hue onto the last setting
  
• Tap DOWN 1x = Turns Hue off
  
• Tap UP 2x = Turns Hue PINK at 50%
  
• Tap UP 3x = Turns Hue PURPLE at 50%
  
• Tap UP 4x = Turns Hue GREEN at 50%
  
• Tap UP 5x = Turns Hue BLUE at 50%
  
• HOLD UP = Changes dim to 75%
  
• HOLD DOWN = Changes dim to 25%
  
  Now the limitation here is that you cannot dim up/down in real time, nor get to a precise level. This is because Hue speaks ZigBee and Inovelli speaks Z-Wave and it has to be interpreted at the HUB level and there is no commands that translate to dimming up/down in realtime between Z-Wave and ZigBee.
  
  Hopefully that makes sense?
  
  Ok, now onto the patent issue. I can't speak in detail about it for legal reasons, but I can say the patent was around how our switch works in a 3-Way setting.
  
  As you may know, one of the features of the switch is that it can be used in multiple 3-Way settings:
  
  
• It will work with a dumb switch at one end
  
• It will work with an aux switch at one end
  
• It will work with another smart switch at one end
  
  The first bullet point was actually patented by Zooz and they were kind enough to share this with us right as we were going to production, so we had to make a modification, which caused a delay.
  
  The good news is that we were able to find a different way of making it work, so we wouldn't violate the patent.
  
  So, to directly answer your question of cutting out features and quality:
  
  The answer is no, we did not have to cut out any features and no, we did not sacrifice quality to do so. I wish I could tell you exactly how we did it, but we are actually in the patent process ourselves around our approach to solving the 3-Way with a dumb switch issue, so I can't disclose right now :/
  
  As for switch recommendations:
  
  
• HomeSeer: I've had their WS100 since it came out and it's been my favorite switch since. I like the scene control (double tap, triple tap, etc) and the aesthetics. But their new WS200 looks awesome and has all the bells and whistles.
  
  
• Zooz: I don't personally have any of their switches, but Agnes is awesome and I really love what they're doing over there from an innovation standpoint. Their customer support is great from what I hear too. Amazing pricepoint on their switches for what you get as well.
  
  Hope this helped a bit and I'm happy to answer any other questions!
  
  Eric
  
  Founder | Inovelli

OpenHAB is probably the way you want to go with this. OpenHAB basically just provides you with an API that you can use to send predefined commands to it's supported hardware. It's nice because it can connect to tons of proprietary gear...someone's spent the time looking up documentation or reverse engineering the particular ZigBee or Z-Wave commands and implementing it for you. If you like really low level stuff, you can actually skip OpenHAB entirely and send the commands yourself. It's more involved but still possible.

Home automation devices are largely all ZigBee or Z-Wave these days. Z-Wave is more widely used. You can get a Z-Wave USB stick like this and get started. That should work with OpenHAB on Windows, Linux, or Raspberry Pi. It basically just creates a new device on the mesh network that can send commands to other things. Very little is hardwired anymore and battery life for most things is 1-2 years easy.

Unless you really like building your own hardware, I would mostly stick with what's already out there. You can't beat the quality and battery life of some of these products. As long as a proprietary HUB isn't required then it's fine.

As far as manual overrides, that's going to vary. If you build your system right you should be able to completely shut off all of your automation software and still use your house normally. Here's a good read that was recently posted about this. So for a thermostat, make sure you have a physical thermostat where cloud operation is secondary and only an added convenience just in case your Internet goes down. For lights, don't just fill your house with Hue lights that you can only turn on from an app. Your wall switches still need to work. Physical redundancy is largely up to you as the system manager but be sure to not buy devices that require an Internet connection in order to work.

The best advice I have is to take your time. I was new to this a couple months ago but I've been following this subreddit very actively. There's a lot to learn and home automation is still young enough that everyone in the game is still sort of finding their way. We don't know all the answers yet so sometimes you just have to research a lot and figure it out.

Edit: I'm working on my own open source home automation software solution that I will likely use alongside OpenHAB. It's web based and is slowly getting there. PM me if you're interested and I can set up my demo for you.

The easiest solution would be to go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_iTnJDbPWF33T2

The work great with the Hue bulbs and can be mounted on the wall like a regular switch. There are other similar options, but in my opinion these look the best and are the most user friendly. Might be a good interim solution even if you decide to get into a more sophisticated system like Smartthings or Home Assistant.

My girlfriend also hates using Alexa to control lights so I've done a similar thing and set presets for color and brightness based on time of day which greatly reduces how often she has to deal with the lights. Motion sensor that trigger simple lights like hallways and bathrooms work well too.

I have the exact same desire as you, and it is frustrating that these are so hard to find. I do have a couple of experiments set up around my house's

The first is the easiest. I have a few Hue dimmer switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS) in strategic locations around the house, but they are typically next to existing switches that I've taped over-the-counter and overall it's an unsatisfying solution.

My second experiment is a zwave scene controller (Gocontrol Z-Wave 3-Way Wall Accessory Switch -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EAY3K5Y), and it's probably my favorite solution so far, but they're difficult to come by. I don't think they're actually manufactured anymore. I have it installed talking to my automation system which turns around and talks to hue lights, and it works pretty well. I could achieve the same thing by using any zwave (or zigbee, I guess) in-wall switch and just not hook up the load write, but it seems wrong to me, and I philosophically don't want to pay for the switching or dimming hardware. My ideal price point for these would be $30-35 instead of $50.

My third experiment is something that just got released at CES (Click for Philips Hue (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMWH2YB). It's actually also pretty elegant and doesn't actually need to be wired in, but I find it's slightly less reliable than I'd like, and I sometimes have to push the buttons decently hard or multiple times to ensure functionality.

My ideal solution would be a combination of second and third, basically a wired zigbee in-wall scene controller, and aside from the RGB one posted earlier in this thread (it's $80!!), I haven't really seen one that fits the bill, much less is reasonably priced.

You could try fishing a neutral wire from the ceiling fixturewall outlet to the switchbox. I've done it in my house, but I don't know if I would try it in an apartment.

Alternative products: Since this switch controls an outlet, it's against code to use a dimmer switch on it. And dimmer switches are the only "smart" products I'm aware of that can operate without a neutral.

You're probably better off replacing the wall outlet with a smart outlet or any smart wall wart. Here's GE's in-wall smart outlet since you seem to be leaning toward zwave already.

You can control that smart outlet with something like GE's wall controller or velcro an aeotec minimote to the wall and use that. Even better - you could use an Amazon Echo for control - I rarely physically interact with smart switches since I got a modicum of automation running and a few Echos around the house for voice control.

I don't use this, but wonder if it meets your spec? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485319546&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+outlet Wi-fi, no hub required, and if you put "tasker" into the search bar above "Customer Questions and Answers, you see the following response:

Only reason I took off a star is because this doesn't have an ifttt channel, as of yet. I'm sure that will change though. For the techies, it's doable though Android and the tasker app, but those don't don't like to fiddle with apps and code, go with the WeMo switch if you're looking for ifttt.
This does work with my Alexa, and works as advertised. You simply download the app and set a timer, done. This works great for my tomato plants, and I have one controlling a small space heater in my garage. Again, I'd love to automate everything with ifttt, if the temp drops to a certain degree outside, it would turn on the heater, but there are work around like i stated above.
Nice little device for $25

Edit: just realized you want one that does NOT require wi-fi. Sounds like this would not work, sorry!

That's an interesting approach. But 2x $32 micro switch/dimmer, plus $40 scene controller is $100 minimum. Even if I was happy with my old fan, that set up won't give me control over the speed of the fan remotely. I thought that dimmers should not be used to control fan speed.

Unless I am looking at the wrong parts:
Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SZ6CzbJ281ENH

GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P06CzbWC2KG9Z

For half that price I can get this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wink-Enabled-White-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100

That controller gives me speed and light control (with dimming) at a remote on the wall and in Wink. I would guess it's just zwave, so SmartThings might work with it too.

I would go for the $50 controller if I liked my existing fans, but part of the drive is that I don't like the style, and one fan is dying. I like that $200 fan that includes the automation better than any $150 fan I have seen, so it's a net savings too.

I also have a situation that may not work with those micro components anyway. My fan was wired power to fixture, then switches. So I don't have any real neutrals at my switches for the scene controller. Like this:
http://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-improvements.com/images/wiring-a-4-way-switch.jpg

Z-Wave is in fact pretty well standardized. It is license-encumbered but currently ubiquitous enough that you can be reasonably sure that most any Z-Wave switch you buy is going to work with any Z-Wave hub.

OpenHAB is pretty complicated but if you want to roll your own solution it's a solid starting point. You're going to need a Z-Wave interface which you can pass through to your Linux VM if your hypervisor supports it. Alternately, you can run OpenHAB on an RPi with this device plugged in.

Finally, you might find that getting started with an existing hardware solution like SmartThings or Vera might be a cheap ($100) way to bootstrap the project so you aren't forced into rolling everything yourself, allowing you to start by working on the use case instead of the infrastructure.

I think you're looking for a Z-Wave Accessory Switch. I'm a noob when it comes to electrical work, so this might need more wires than you have available, but this behaves as you describe (it's powered by mains, and doesn't actually control that line, it sends a signal to another device to operate it.)


The only caveat is that you will have to set up an "association group" for it to work.. Association groups are a Z-Wave specific wizardry where devices communicate directly to each other (instead of through a hub.) It's actually pretty sweet - more reliable, and faster than going through a hub (especially one that goes through the cloud.) To do that, you either need a hub that can set it up (Wink can't,) or you can get the Minimote from Aeotec. Here's a handy instruction guide from the folks that made the switch on how to set it up. Note that the instructions are for a different Z-Wave hub, but the same principles should apply.

It seems like a drag, but if you pull it off, you'll have exactly what you're looking for, and as a bonus, a neat little remote that you can use anywhere else you'd like.

It depends if you want to control everything from one place or don;t mind using a separate app for each thing. IF you want an all-in-one solution, the best bet is a Vera pro or VeraLite from MiCasaVerde. You don't have to re-invent the wheel as most of your wants will work right out of the box. What it doesn't natively do, it is almost guaranteed that someone has already done the modification and you can just grab their code.

For the lock I would go with a Yale or Schlage. Even Kwikset has zigbee and z-wave models. Honeywell makes a nice thermostat for cheap. There are several ways to integrate your doorbell as well.

Otherwise, Nest is great, Dropcam is awesome, There are a whole host of cool single-focus products out there.

Yes, I use the Lutron connected remotes with Hue exclusively and they work great. A fantastic workaround for the lack of a true on-wall switch for Hue products which is existing gang plate friendly.

Sure, you can use the Hue dimmer but it looks out of place when next to an existing light switch.

Installation is simple. The important part is to pair the remote to the Hue hub to get the remote on the same zigbee channel. It won't show up in the Hue app so it won't be obvious if the pairing was successful. This makes sure the bulb stays connected to he Hue hub after the remote pairs with the bulb.

For instructions on pairing, check the #3 top rated customer review on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482202187&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=lutron+connected+bulb+remote&dpPl=1&dpID=310BUkrwnfL&ref=plSrch

Yeah, you can do that! I've become a big fan of Zooz switches [Amazon]. The linked one there is the ZEN26, which is for on/off switches (as opposed to dimmers). An important note: Zooz switches are Z-wave, meaning they need a hub (like SmartThings or HomeSeer) to control via Google home.

If you don't want to get a hub, there are plenty of other options available. TP-Link makes some great switches, and their app is wonderful. You just set up the switches, then connect your TP-Link account to your Google account, and then all of your switches can be controlled from the Google Home app or your Google home mini.

The process of rewiring the switches is quite simple, and there are plenty of video resources available. But, as always, have a professional do it if you're not confident.

Reply back here if you have other questions, I'd be happy to try and help!

We got ours 4 years ago, I don't remember seeing combined detectors back then but to be honest I don't know that I would have ever looked. I WANTED a smart solution although when looking at the prices for these units now I found a ZWave compatible dual unit for $50... Definitely makes me reconsider what units to get when I convert my other ones...

Edit: For anyone interested here is the Z-Wave one

Security: Look at it this way, How often are you opening windows, and forgetting to close and relock them? A contact sensor only works at the point of contact. IE, If the window is broken into (The glass is broken), the contact sensor will still show closed.

There goes the security argument out the window.

As far as automation, sure, sensors on windows would be a plus, but if you're doing something just checking if ANY window is open, You might try a hardwired solution and wire it to one sensor. You can get hardwired contacts for somewhere around 3 USD a pop. Combine that with one Ecolink door and window sensor (That has a hardwire port on it) and you'd be good to go.

Homeassistant supports Alarm Decoder and Envisalink (Two solutions I used just for this purpose) as well as a couple of others, but if youve already got a hardwired solution, That'd be your way to go.

I started by picking up a few of these and connecting them to my Amazon Echo: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Controls-Electronics-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467748762&sr=8-1&keywords=tplink+smart+plug

Super easy to set up and you can ask Alexa to "turn on the TV" or "turn off the lamp". You can also group things together and say "Alexa, turn everything off" which is pretty neat for when you're going to bed. You can use your existing bulbs and it's cheaper (well save for the Echo) then jumping into a Hue starter kit, for example. That said, I do plan to pickup an EcoBee and Hue kit soon now that I have the itch to automate all the things!

I have all of my outdoor lighting automated.

• Front Porch
  
• Back Door
  
• Back Deck
  
• Detached Garage Light
  
• Low Voltage Outdoor lighting
  
  In combination with a few other devices, door sensors, ring door bell for motion, garage door automation (MyQ) etc. I can setup a multitude of different scenarios. Open the front door, lights go full brightness, close door dim them back down. Motion from the ring at night, crank the brightness up. Open the garage door, turn on the light above the garage to full brightness. Most of the lights turn on about 15 mins before sunset with some nice transitions in brightness.
  
  I use GE Z-Wave Outdoor Modules that I plug into the low voltage transformers that are always set to the on position. That way I can just toggle the switch on thus turning on the transformer and the lights.
  
  
  In most of the outdoor fixtures I use Smart Bulbs (the lights that are shielded from the elements). My front porch I use Hue Color that I automated for holiday lights. I have a detached garage that I
  put in a Lutron Caseta dimmer since the switch was in the house.
  
  
  Essentially I used a variety of devices to tackle each lighting situation based on what would work best and then automate everything with Home Assistant. You can see all my devices and automations here.
  

Lutron makes great smart switches. As others mentioned occupancy sensors are better than smart switches for high traffic areas like kitchens, bathrooms, hallways and smart switches are better in bedrooms, living rooms, etc.

Yes but how do I fit two switches where only one was before and without running another 3 way switch wire?
Is it as simple as getting a dual rocker switch like https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Single-Pole-Decorator-Combination-Residential/dp/B075KJMSP3 and a couple of relays like these https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8 ?
It seems like an overly complicated solution to me and i'm not even sure if it would work.

I have this yale model. 2 of them actually. They are nice and do the zwave stuff you would want. I have this Schlage on my front door and think it is a nicer front door deadbolt. The schlage lets you (with wink 2 at least) program pin codes from the app and tells you which code was used to open the door. The Yales let you customize pins too but need to be done at the lock itself. Honestly the Yales are really nice and I did buy a second one for my back door after being satisfied with the one on my garage door.

For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.

I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.

Fan Control (speed only, not light)

Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)

Door/window sensor

Dimmer switch

Garage door opener

Plug in outlet

If you have Home Assistant already running, from what I understand, you should be able to get a USB zwave dongle like this. You'll then be able to connect zwave devices to Home Assistant, which will take care of your light switches.
Harmony Hub is great. The phone app is ok at best but tied with Echo or G home it works great.

So the main level has every door pre-wired and all windows that open on the main level pre-wired as well. Pre-wired door photos.

I assume you were talking about these Ecolink sensors? Just curious why go for a z-wave sensor and also hardwire it? Is this for redundancy?

I came across these that mount flush inside the door and I think would be hardwired the same way as the Ecolink sensor (GPIOs on a rPi in my case)? That way they're completely invisible and a lot less expensive to outfit every door and window. I don't know if these would work well for the front door that has the pre-wire on the hinge side of the door (depending on how far apart they need to get), but they should work for the other door that has the wires on the deadbolt side?

Again, super new to this, so I may be missing something. I really appreciate the help!

Moisture sensors are pretty common, you should be able to find one that fits your water needs just fine. I use this one in my sump crock to detect high water, but it would work just as well to detect low water.

As for low food, I think /u/Hilbe has a pretty good idea.

EDIT: actually, Hilbe's idea would probably be best for both situations... and the cheapest, here are some contact sensors for $10, and they include a temperature sensor so you could monitor the temp in the coop too. $20, a couple pieces of scrap wood and a few stones and you are set.

Gotcha, well you can still get the basic hub+remote for $135 it looks. I have this, but never use the remote really, cause everything is exposed as switches to my other systems.

There's plenty you can do if you know how to code, but if you aren't writing plugins for HASS you can get away with just learning some basic YAML pretty much, and there's tons of useful resources on the website.

I use this sensor for a lot of things, including temp/humidity. It's also got a light sensor, if that would be in any way helpful there as well. It shows up in HASS with the assortment of sensors that can then be tied to whatever automations and such.

>From what I am reading I can just buy a Z-Wave USB stick and use it on the PC that is hosting HASS?

Yup. I have one of these, works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

>Are there zwave switches that arent a physical switch?

How about just getting one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/

>Are there any zwave relays?

There are, though I'm not aware of anything 12v.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/

https://smile.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-relay/dp/B00R883YKU/

>Any ideas on how that can be accomplished?

No idea on this on. I'm sure it's possible with HASS. At the very least you can call and external script to make said announcement. You might ask out on the forums, they have a good community: https://community.home-assistant.io/

Cheers!

Warning: stream of conciousness follows. I tried to re-organize it a bit..

• Designate a spot in the house for your equipment center. (EC) Get a Rack, and just focus on rack-mount gear.
  
• Run a FUCKLOAD of power to the EC. I'm talking like at LEAST 100A sub-panel. Branch off circuits from that as needed.
  
• Look into a UPS for the EC to keep everything purring along even in case of power burps.
  
• Whole house standby generator?
  
• Conduit from the EC to all the rooms, attic, garage. Multiple strings in it for pulling future cabling
  
• Run CAT6 and Coax from the EC to all the rooms, maybe multiple walls, closet too.
  
• Run multiple strands of Coax from an outside box to your EC, don't like the local Cable company fuck with it, just connect to it.)
  
• Maybe even fiber, or at least some conduit for it..
  
• Coax Splitter/Distribution in the EC
  
• If you're feelin' froggy, run Fiber from the EC to where you expect your computer will be.
  
• Get POE cameras installed while it's easy, run 'em to the EC. Get a POE Switch.
  
• Get an appropriate number of WAPs installed, have them run multiple pieces of CAT, power, maybe even Fiber in an attempt to future proof yourself.
  
• Pick up a Used Dell R710, and use it to virtualize things like a router, NVR for the cameras, brain for the home automation(Homeseer?), WAPS, Home theater, etc..
  
• Rather than central heating, maybe look into sub-floor heating? Each room could be adjusted as desired then.
  
• Install ceiling fans with TWO switches in a Double-gang. One for light, one for Fan. Zwave!
  
• Whole house fan?
  
• Have the electricians install all the Z-wave fixtures, so they use appropriately sized wall boxes. "Normal" ones are a snug fit.
  
• Z-wave outlets too?
  
• Get little "medicine cabinet" type boxes installed in each room with CAT and power, for intercom, distributed entertainment systems, etc.
  
• In-ceiling speakers all over the fuckin' place, with per-room controls for aforementioned intercom, entertainment, etc.
  
• LED Step/Stair lighting, bonus points for Billie Jean
  
• Sprinkler System w/ OpenSprinkler
  
• Look into the in-window shades. Who wants to dust shit? Pretty sure they have mechanisms to control them too.
  
• Run a fuckload of power to the garage as well. I have a single outlet in mine.. It fucking sucks.
  
• Look into getting your Home Theater "brains" in the EC as well?
  
• PROJECTOR! ATMOS! BUZZWORDS!
  
• Acoustically Transparent screens are your friends. Hide those speakers!
  
• Run the speaker cabling for a full Atmos setup, even if you're not going to be that insane (yet)
  
• If you get a projector, have them run the cabling up the center from the screen, and leave slack. That way, when you get a different projector and need to adjust the distance, it's not quite so heart-breaking. Conduit, of course.
  
• Irrigation system / OpenSprinkler (Homeseer can talk to it)
  
• I love the idea of a "wet room" bathroom. Simplifies some things, complicates others.
  
• Zwave water leak sensors installed under the toilets by the gasket so you can catch problems quickly. The cable is a LOT longer than that photo appears.
  
• Zwave water valves, kill flow remotely/automatically
  
• "centralized" plumbing, where everything is a home run (probably to the EC), rather than a maze of pipes throughout the house
  
• Tankless heaters near the faucets instead of a main one?
  
• Have your doorbell cabling run to the EC, and then branch it from there to any bells. Chasing wires suck.
  
• Tesla solar roof?
  

I have a mixed environment. I have several z-wave devices because I wanted the aeon multisensors and decided to try the switches while I was at it. I also have 20ish Insteon switches and the usb plm. For switches I would pick Insteon 10/10 times again. When I bought the switches in 4-packs it came out to $37/switch putting it roughly in line with z-wave for price. The difference that sold me was for that price I got instant device feedback on state change instead of waiting for the weird way z-wave has to do it because of patents and them not wanting to license it. I also had a much simpler time setting it all up.

I have owned a few Insteon items including the plm for about 8 years, with the plm finally failing about a year ago. I've read that they used to use crappy capacitors but the new ones are built with better components. So far the new plm is working like a charm. I've also got the old one around to try swapping out capacitors to see if that fixes it. The grand majority of switches I put in about 3 years ago with no issues yet.

For smart plugs I tried some aeon z-wave plugs but eventually settled on https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-Plug-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734. You don't need to register it with their site to be able to access data from it locally, it is reliable which the z-wave ones were not, and I could easily load data into influxdb to view in grafana.

I still have yet to try the Insteon water sensors, but for any other sensor type I would go z-wave. price+features make that a no brainer.

As far as the company going anywhere, I met a dev that worked there a year ago and it sounded like they suck at making software for their cloud offering, but their hardware business is still going very strong.

you want the hub primarily for the wifi capabilities so it works with Smartthings or your other wifi devices that you may use. The hub also lets you connect it with alexa so you can turn on activities, change channels, volume, etc. As you mentioned, it does also allow control for stuff in cabinets

/u/glennbarosen get this if you want home control buttons on the remote

or get this if you dont care for home control on your remote. you can still have the activities communicate with your smart home devices (smart bulbs, smart plugs, etc). I use this one and it works great with my smart home stuff

Either choice will let you control your TV, sound system, apple tv, ps4 (ps4 only after it was powered on by controller)

Caseta makes a great product, I use them everywhere - both the smart dimmers, and switches, and also use their non-smart motion sensing switches.

Having said that, you can't use voltage switches with smart bulbs!

At least not the current generation, and since they need to maintain state non likely in the future unless the add non-volatile storage and that will get expensive.

You need to use a "virtual switch" of some type, one that basically sends data commands to the bulbs like your phone does. I have about 30 smart bulbs in my place and so believe me it's a sore spot.

The good news for you is that since you have Hue bulbs (too expensive for the number I wanted), you can use the Hue Dimmer Switch which is designed just for this purpose:

No wiring needed, just paste it to a wall somewhere and connect to your hue hub.

I use a combination of the Brilliant Switch and the SmartThings controller to kind of do the same things, but my bulbs are Tuya which doesn't have an integration yet, so it's a kludgy solution.

I know that you said you're using WiFi bulbs, but I was in the same situation using zwave bulbs. If you have a hub, replace the bulbs with zwave bulbs and you can use this switch. It goes over top of your switch and is permanently screwed into the plate. You just leave your switch in the on position before you put the new switch over top of it. It has dimming controls also. Works pretty well for me.


Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/

KISS Keep It Simple, Stupid. :-)

An automated closet/pantry light, typically, doesn't need to be smart. You don't need to turn it on or off at certain times. You don't need notification it was turned on, off, or left on. You simply need it to be motion or switch/timer activated/deactivated.

I understand you had the additional task of wiring electrical for this, but anyone with an existing lighted pantry or closet, think why it would need to be smart before you spend money on fixtures for it. Most of the time, you merely want it to turn off because people forget to do that.

Door-jamb closure switches are an option, unless you're dealing with people who not only leave on lights but also don't close doors. However, there is some drilling and electrical work required to install those. In my experience, they're often installed on the hinge side of the door, which is opposite where the light switch is located.

Lutron's Maestro Occupancy/Vacancy Sensors are, IMO, a perfect solution for this if your closet is already lighted. They can be configured to turn on with motion (occupancy mode), or switch press (vacancy mode); configured to stay off if there is already enough light; and configured how long to stay on after motion has stopped. I've placed these in ALL closets.

In bathrooms, however, I did opt for smart switches and motion sensors, for both fans and lights. The fans are programmed to come on with a switch-press, and turn off after 60 minutes of no motion. The lights are programmed to turn on with motion, but at different light levels depending on time ... and off again after 10 minutes of no motion. I could have opted for in-wall timers for the fans, but decided to go with smart switches instead.

Haha, thanks. Just bugs me that I went through all the trouble of putting in a pit, pump, plumbed it and of course had to run power and it's been dry since.

I used Aeotec gear for this one. Battery life on the water sensor is pretty solid, works well and it's quick to update. The switch is pretty configurable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007UZH7B8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457995487&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=zwave+energy+switch

And
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H3TJ3P4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457995529&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=zwave+water+sensor&dpPl=1&dpID=31r46cr5%2BUL&ref=plSrch

It depends on your platform. I use SmartThings, you can set something up that when one light is turned on, others do as well. Kind of like grouping them as a scene selection. With other HA systems, you can set up where a quick double tap to one switch turns on others.

If you're on straight z wave, then you could use the GE zwave keypad and group scenes. It's a nice item, doesn't need a gang box, just mount to the wall. Available on Amazon.

Is there a reason why you're going the bulb route instead of the smart switches? Depending on how many bulbs you get, the cost can get up there pretty quickly. I use Lutron Caseta switches and they integrate well to smartthings and then into google home. I also have 4 downlights with hue bulbs in them for one room. What I did was just wired the power wires behind the switch to always have power to the fixture. At the time, Lutron sold a remote that looked the the other smart switches I installed that could control hue light bulbs. I just put it over the wires with a bracket that Lutron made as well.

I was waiting for the same thing, but I finally bit the bullet and got a dual relay. It's a tight fit (you'll need to stuff it all the way to the back), but I got it to work in a standard single-gang box. Your existing switches will work and will toggle on/off regardless of the position of the switch. The switch also reports instant status to your z-wave controller.

The model I listed is good because the built in wires minimize the number of wire nuts you'll need (only 2 to connect the red and yellow wires to the 2 loads), which conserves space. You can follow along with the wiring guide in the comments. It's cheap and works great for on/off control.

1. Get a Harmony Hub + remote like this
   
2. In the Harmony app, add your devices (TV, Roku, etc).
   
3. In the Harmony app, create activities for "watch plex", "watch youtube". Basically they turn on the tv, set the input to roku (hdmi2 or whatever), then tell the roku to start a specific roku channel.
   
4. In the Smartthings app, add your Harmony hub. It will find the "watch plex" and "watch youtube" activities.
   
5. In the Google Home app, add your Smartthings controller. Now Google Home knows about those activities also.
   
   So I'll say "hey google start plex" and it will reply "ok starting the watch plex" (yeah, bad grammar) and then do the right thing. I still use the roku (or harmony) remote for choosing shows, pausing/forwading, etc. But it's handy to be able to use Google Home voice commands to start/stop things.

I don't have any automation yet, still reading up. As well as a tilt sensor, you could probably also use a window/door sensor but it definitely looks like the tilt/sensor is easier to install as it is one piece.

http://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/

Mostly a gimmick. A fun gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. It really depends on what your budget is. Is approx $20/bulb worth it for a novelty? For me, it was in a few places, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The temperature thing is now a must after having the color and the ambient. I hope to never go back to a single temp bulb again. That's worth $15 premium of the ambient over the cheap white ones.

Get the dimmer switches. 100% worth the money. Then put these guards over your current switches.

Currently controlling Honeywell thermostat with Alexa. Single zone

The purpose of my question is to cool the bedroom(s) at night and let the rest of the house be warmer. I just don't want to drop the cash required for a 4 zone system.


If I wired on or off electrical dampers with something like:

Enerwave Z-Wave Plus ZWN-RSM1 Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights & Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IMYhzbYEXKF1J

Couldn't I simply close off all areas I don't need cooled. I would imagine someone smarter than me could set up a web interface or IFTTT that could reference wifi temp sensors to command av on off based on which dampers were on or off.

If you want smart lights and need a physical switch to use I would suggest two options.

The first option is to upgrade your wall switches. I have used these before and have had no issues Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch for Wall & Ceiling Lights, PD-6WCL-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x-WWBbPYJ4QP5

If you want to go the Hue light route you can buy wireless switches and use the included 3m mounting to hang it on your wall Philips Hue Smart Dimmer Switch with Remote (Installation-Free, Smart Home, Exclusively for Philips Hue Smart Bulbs), 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IeXWBb02JK78V

Saw one that included new model in the title but it is from a 3rd part seller so who knows what that even means. Says it comes with 2 keys instead if 1, but I don’t see any other difference. I’d rather get this one and make a key copy for $2. Price looks like it dropped, tempted to return mine and rebuy it lol

https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Touchscreen-Deadbolt-SmartThings/dp/B00AGK9KOG


Edit if there are different versions hopefully someone else can chime in. It looks like the same one that I have installed though

Edit oh the one I linked is the “newer model” from be Schlage seller, odd that it is cheaper. Taking a look

I was thinking about a simple outlet for the TV/stereo but the harmony hub looks interesting. Thanks for the tip.

There's a bit of a problem with the light switch. I was thinking about something like this, but there aren't any available in Germany (The TP link switch costs 100€, instead of $40-50).

TP-Link has a good price on their wifi switches. These work with Alexa via the Kasa plugin but do not connect to any hubs that I'm aware of. I had a good experience with their Smart Plugs until I went 100% Z-Wave for hub compatibility. Either way, these are a decent price. Currently at $39.99 and Amazon even has a $5 coupon to reduce the price futher.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS200-Smart-Wi-Fi-Switch/dp/B01EZV35QU

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

I have these bulbs and this z stick. I use home assistant as my hub. It's very flexible at what it can do, but with that flexibility comes complication and a learning curve. But I think it was well worth it.

I've got those bulbs in almost every light and lamp in my house, along with an Amazon Echo, a couple of motion sensors, and a lot of timing based automation. Look thorough the components home assistant supports for an idea of what you can do.

edit:
The bulbs I linked also come with little plastic bits to go over the switches so people don't turn them off accidentally.

I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but the other day I asked a similar question.

I wanted my Hues to be powered all the time so I could always use the Hue app alone to turn them on, or have them return to the previous scene, or all the other benefits that come with leaving the Hues powered.

However, I wanted to replace the Decora switches/dimmers with something that could be used to control the Hues but without cutting power. So my solution is what /u/rittyroo suggested, I purchased a Lutron Connected Bulb Remote with the wallplate bracket and hooked it up to the Hues. It's not designed for them, but there is a Youtube video showing how to set it up and it worked for me no problem.

I still have to actually hardwire the lights to always-on, though I haven't yet because they're three-way switches which are outside of my expertise - I'll be getting an electrician or someone smarter than me to do it. But the system works exactly like I had hoped.

I don't get your question? Zwave is Zwave. Is pretty much the most prominent and pervasive home automation communication protocol. So yeah, it's interconnected?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KMHXFAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496306974&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zwave+smoke+detector&dpPl=1&dpID=41jC0IWtWgL&ref=plSrch

You add this to your network, and then use your hub/controller software to respond etc. If you're not American, then make sure you get the global one.

It won't get bricked by the Harmony Link Hub end of life. But I can't say Logitech won't decide in the future to brick the Harmony Hub too.

If it makes you feel any better, i just bought this and liking it so far.

I have used these successfully with Smartthings and Vera Lite. You only need one to work with two switches. It must be wired in the box behind the switches, so you need to make sure you've got room in your box. Based on the instructions, I'm certain there is a European variant. I hope this helps.

Vision In Wall Z-Wave Micro Switch, 2 relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R883YKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q6iIAbKA2Z3JB

I think you might be looking for this:
SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY by Osram - Smart Home- Dimming Switch for all LIGHTIFY Products Control your Smart Home System at the Touch of a Button, Works with Alexa (hub required) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8OfCybXA5VXDY
I use one with my SmartThings Hub and it works great.

Yep :) Should be good, all these USB sticks do is create a serial port which you point the OpenHAB Z-Wave binding to and OpenHAB runs anywhere a JVM runs!

Besides the UZB Z-Wave USB stick mentioned above, there are a few other models that are known to work with OpenHAB. eg. Z-Stick

You can go with something like this, which has terminals under the cover for you to wire external sensors to. I had embedded contact sensors in my exterior doors from an old (previous owner's) home security system. I just took the existing wiring, stripped the jacket back, used a multimeter to test resistance and verify the hardwired sensors still worked (installer had used 4-wire on one of the runs, even though only 2 were used, so I also had to verify which wires), and wired it into the sensor.

Here's a video I found of the terminals for external sensors.

Now I have a sleek z-wave door sensor install, with the wireless sensors tucked out of sight. Hopefully that helps!

> See, I didn't even know that was a thing. Glad I opened this thread already. So much to research.
>
> Thanks.

No prob man, and they really do work amazingly. Here's an amazon link for the z-wave plus outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07361JZ2H/

Here's the link for the switches and add-on switches. They come in either paddle or toggle style, and in a couple colors. You can also get switches that support dimming if that's your thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/

If it's a 3-way, the functionality of the add-on will match that of the other switch. So if it's a dimmer on the main side, the add-on has that as well.

The best thing for you, imo, since you’ve already invested a lot in hue is to get the little hue dimmer remotes. You’d use the remotes instead of the physical switches and you’d lock the switches with a switch lock/guard.

Philips 473371 Hue Dimmer Switch Smart Remote (Installation-Free, Exclusive for Philips Hue Lights), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dpaSAbSV6SY55

In the future, as was already said, if you can use a smart switch then it would almost always be preferred to use a smart switch.


Edit:keep in mind that the smart switch from GE is zwave and requires a zwave hub like smartthings.

If you were to get into a hub then that opens up a while world of other possibilities but I think that might be beyond your scope of what you want.

I use this one from amazon. It has a 120v coil so it is easier to control. I use a contactor the pool pump and one for the pool cleaner pump controlled with a dual relay z wave micro switch. But any z wave switch that you can mount will work. Many pool pump panels have a place for a switch to mount. Mine is inside the panel and works great.

So I just found this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G7OD1F8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_of_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6PCH57G7MYJCP1PFDJ8M

There are a bunch of different brands and sizes on Amazon.

Basically I think you could put that inside the fan electrical box. I'm assuming the fan power and light power should be separated in there? (If not you're out of options). If they are you still wouldn't be able to control fan speed but it would go to whatever setting is on the pull chain. It's z-wave so you'd still need something like Smartthings hub which isnt horrible because then you can open a door of other things to control if you choose.

Actually, if you already have a light install something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC

$20 solution that is a motion sensor for your closet light, best thing I've ever done. I can walk into the closet, light comes on, then goes off after 60 seconds to 10 minutes depending on the setting.

Wow. I've got 2 of the SC7s and they are really great, especially for the price. I found 2 sites selling them for ~44 + shipping, but I got them originally for <$40 shipped. There is the GE 45631, but it appears to work as a full secondary controller rather than a scene controller. Even the Levitons are more expensive now!

Aeotec has the minimote, but it's not wall-mounted--there's this Eaton controller, but it's still more than the Enerwaves for fewer buttons. The only other ones I know of are the Evolve LCD scene controllers, but they're way expensive. Really not sure what happened to the trusty Enerwaves...

Vision In Wall Z-Wave Micro Switch, 2 relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R883YKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VXCbAb1NHPYCC

Yep basically it goes on between your existing light switches and your home's wiring. The instructions arent super helpful but the top Amazon review has a really useful wiring diagram.

I think your most elegant solution would be to use this door sensor. It has 2 contacts inside that can be hooked up to preexisting wiring (aka already installed door sensor). I think one contact wired to each side of the contacts of the doorbell would work. When the button is pressed, it completes the circuit. You could also get creative and mount this back by the chime, just figure out which wires to hook it up to.

I got this Schlage deadbolt as part of a handleset and it's worked out for me well (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9FLeAb9R1HP1A)

It doesn't connect directly to Google Home, so it needs a hub (I have SmartThings) and then you can control it with your Google Home. I like to say "Ok Google, lock the door" as I'm walking out. It takes two seconds to lock, so I have the door shut by then.

Sleeker locks like Kevo are nice, but I like the keypad so I can give other family members their own code instead of having them download an app.

I did this with GE Switches in the wall wired up with no load. I Direct wired my ceiling fans and rewired their light kits with the Aeotec Micro Dimmer 2nd Edition
Then use Smart Lighting in Smartthings to tell the dimmer to turn on/off depending on the on/off status of the GE Switch in the wall. I have 4 ceiling fans setup like this. Works well. Would probably work even better if the GE Switches I used were ZWave +.

This nice thing about this module is it still has a provision for the pull chain. So the switch and the pull chain are functional in my setup.

I have an old generation Aeotec water sensor I bought off Amazon a couple years ago, and it works perfectly with my Abode security system.

Any idea if this new one is compatible?

A dual-relay Z-wave in-box switch and a Z-wave scene controller will get you wireless control over the fan however in order to get Alexa compatibility, you're going to need a hub of some sort (Vera, Wink, Smartthings). Alexa's commands go from the Amazon Voice Service to the smart hub's API, and the hub is what sends the actual commands to turn on/off things. Without a hub, there's nothing for Alexa to see much less control.

Trying to find a wifi solution to this is either going to be expensive as it's a single-purpose item (to control a fan/light kit) or it's going to be kludgy. You could technically get a couple of wifi appliance switches (one for fan, one for lights), however it's going to be a bit ugly up on the ceiling or on the wall wherever you tap in to get the power for the ceiling fan.

I've got the Schlage Camelot with the touch screen:

http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-BE469NXCAM619-Touchscreen-Deadbolt-Technology/dp/B00AGK9KOG/

Took 5 minutes to install. It works great. Never had an issue. Got this particular one because it has 3 different configurable alarms and interfaces with Vera3 perfectly.

>The important question to ask is what kind of 3-phase (they aren’t all alike), and what voltage is our lighting? (A possible answer not compatible with your switch is 277v).

Yeah I mean if he has 3 phase with a neutral they are most likely 277vac. Seems like the z-wave relay/contactor method is the best bet at like ~$40. Can be installed in the ceiling at the fixture or in the switch box - See Here . You can get straight up switches for 277vac but they are price $65 - See Here

1. https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Z-Wave-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555866&sr=1-1&keywords=zwave+window+sensor
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Everspring-Z-Wave-Water-Flood-Sensor/dp/B006TG9W4Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555890&sr=1-1&keywords=water+leak+zwave
   
   
3. Same sensor as one, just seal it with silicone
   
   
4. It's natively supported by ST.
   
   
5. Personal opinion, throwing it out before it gets the best of you.

Logitech Harmony Home Control - 8 Devices (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3RFC4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oChywbW3JCBG7

This is the version I got. I didn't want to have to use my phone ever time I want to change the channel or something

Works great

Since you specifically mention Z-wave, I'm going to assume you will be using a hub. I know that at least with Wink, you can set a robot to turn on/off the lamp along with the main switch.

If you want these to be able to function independently, from the same switch, it would have to be a HomeSeer as they are the only manufacturer that does this (and they own the patent on that technology (AFAIK)

Other options include:

Wink Relay - (although it's probably more than a HomeSeer switch) you would at least get a cool display.. and 2 "smart buttons" that you can program to control any shortcut that you wanted... and also an intercom if you installed a second one.


Echo/Dot/Google Home + an external smart plug - TP Link will pair with either of those without requiring an additional hub. The lamp would be voice controlled.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511199240&sr=8-3&keywords=tp-link+smart+plug



EDIT

You could also replace the bulbs in the lamp with zigbee bulbs - Either paired directly to a hub, Hue - or the Echo Plus.

Just bought a few of these at Home Depot: http://amzn.com/B014STZASK

I think theyre exactly what you're looking for. They can control most smart bulbs and are sized like a regular decora switch so you can pop it in the wall and have it look like it's wired in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482414964&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Tp+link+alexa&dpPl=1&dpID=31D9FOxUODL&ref=plSrch

Something like that would work.

You'll only have BASIC control of whatever is plugged in. Turn it on or turn it off that's it. With a "real" hub you'll be able to schedule and connect different things together.

Example, with the hub and switch that I mentioned before you can put the switch on your porch lights. Lights on at sunset, off at 10pm. If you are not home until sometime after 10 the porch light will stay on until you arrive. Put the light in an entry way to do the same. You can add a motion sensor (~$30 monoprice) and have the light turn on and off with voice (cool factor 8), switch (cool factor 2), timer (cool factor 4) or occupancy (cool factor 10).

The Echo might be the part that most people interact with the hub is the thing that really does all the cool stuff. As far as HA stuff goes the Echo is just another switch.

Agreed, a switch would look nicer. In that case, consider installing a wall controller instead of a load switch. Here's a good example: https://www.amazon.com/Linear-Z-Wave-3-Way-Accessory-Switch/dp/B00EAY3K5Y

I'm using ones purchased from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00JJY0S4G) or Home Depot (http://goo.gl/eZKEkK). You can control the dimmer from the remote and from the (Wink) hub. Neat setup. Looks like you can get the dimmer module without the remote from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00KLAXFQA).

Try TP-Link. About $ 28 as well but very good and compatible with just about everything. Of course the dimmer is a bit more expensive.

​

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079775ZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The user guide and other PDFs are in the description.

​

I've had 3 regular switches and 1 dimmer installed for about 2 months now.

Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL-WH Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch or PD-6ANS-WH Smart Lighting Switch are "single-pole" switches, but they will require L-BDG-WH Caseta Wireless Smart Bridge to function properly.

I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4

This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R

This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ

It also occurred to me (thanks to /u/b1g_bake for prodding my thinking a bit), you need to consider what kind of control you want. I recommended the FLS-pp, and it would do as advertised. If you were using white only, you could dispense with a "smart controller", and instead get a "smart switch" (so Google/Alexa would control the power). That doesn't allow color control. But, if only white, you could just use a normal switch and forget the voice control.

However, voice control gets tedious, and doesn't give you any control over color. (There may be Alexa Skills/Google Recipes that allow it...?) As I recall, the FLS-pp does have app control. I have one, but I've got nine home automation apps; I don't remember if one of them is for it or not (or if it didn't require an app to connect to my system)! The Fibaro does have an app, or at least... my phone has an app installed called "Fibaro" :-P

Color control is always tricky, because you need a color wheel or something equivalent. There are control panels, but you'd be getting into hub territory. Personally, I'd say it's worth it, but it depends on your budget. Controller + cheap LED strips + power supply, you're looking at ~$170 on the low end. To get a control panel and hub, you're going to (approximately) double that.

edit2: What I'd recommend (if budget allows) is to get a controller hub with a remote control, and have the remote control switch between a few preset "scenes". Hue + a Hue dimmer can do that ($75 for both; I actually have an extra Hue hub you can have for cheap). The FLS-pp and the Fibaro can connect to Hue. That would also allow adding /u/dabe9600's idea, Hue color bulbs either on the deck or inside, expanding to other lighting (like under-cabinet kitchen accents), etc., etc. /edit2

edit: And there are cheap little WiFi controllers that can do Alexa/Home. I didn't recommend it, because they wouldn't be able to connect to much of anything else. Also, a lot of them also go through the cloud, so you'd have a built in 1 second delay on response times. However, they can be had for $20 or less (even as little as $5 off AliExpress). The cheap ones don't power the LEDs, and otherwise only handle one strip without a booster.

Both of your examples are good examples of overthinking things, in my opinion. I bet you have switches on both sides of your family room - on one side, you can get to the dining room lights and on the other, to the kitchen lights. So if you have one central "fancy" switch, now what - you're going to manage your kitchen lights on the way from the dining room? It's ok to use a regular switch when it makes sense. And your basement example is almost identical to my front entrance and all I did was put in a motion sensor switch and now the lights turn on when I open the door and turn off after a few seconds of no motion (that config won't work for basement but you can get one that turns off at the top with a physical switch). Something like this (not exactly what I have) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/

Any smart switch or dimmer functions by replacing the existing switch with a relay or dimmer, and that relay is controller by the buttons on the front of the switch. When you say multi-zone, are you talking about multi-way? As in, 3-way, 4-way, etc? In that case, the idea is not to control multiple loads from one location, but rather, one load from multiple locations. If you want to control multiple loads from one location, you could pick up some aeotech micro switches for each fixture, and associate those to a scene controller, like this one.

You can get 4-zone wall controllers.

Like this. GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OUWABU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_MopxwbJ3M98R3

Then get one of these for each group you want to control

Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_LppxwbZ9DQ7SX

That should do it. You might need an electrician to safely install the relays for each group.

Looking closer at your sensor I'm not surprised. It looks like it is designed to trigger when it is damp, not just submerged.

You might try something like this. It should alert only when the prongs are submerged.

Almost! The lutron stuff is a bit confusing. They have their pico/caseta line (which you don't want), and their connected bulb line.

You want this, this, and this. Of course, you'll also need Zigbee bulbs (Osram Lightify, GE Link, etc) and a compatible hub, such as Wink. If you'd like, you can get a second remote and keep it beside your bed.


Hope this helps!

Ecolink Intelligent Technology Z-Wave Easy Install, Battery Operated, White & Brown (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wGXvybTMAV6VJ is what I have for a door sensor. But you'll just have to keep looking for something a bit cheaper.

I literally just installed one of these 15 minutes ago. It works great, I can control it via Amazon Echo through my hub, but it maintains the look and feel of the original light switch.

The micro switch just sits inside the gangbox.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483133953&sr=8-2&keywords=aeotec+micro+smart+switch

The true cost of this thing includes paying for a plumber to install it, unless you can turn off the water mains from the city/county and are comfortable cutting open the main supply pipe to your house. There are z-wave alternatives that are substantially cheaper and do not require a plumber - for example this one. This controller (and there are others very similar to it) mount on a levered ball valve on the outside and have a z-wave controlled motor that moves the lever between open and closed positions. When paired with Aeotec flood sensors, you can assemble a system that's much cheaper than the Leaksmart at the discounted price and does the same job.

I use these and they are excellent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077RVKYR6/ref=crt_ewc_img_oth_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NG14OPL35XMM

I coupled them with these to plug into existing sockets.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DN6QX2/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I control all of mine with the switch on the wall, if I wanted to control them individually you could put these (or similar) on each set to individually control them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Micro zwave switch in the gang box for the switch or at the light.

Switch interrupts the "hot" wire to the light.

Put the HA controller on a schedule to be off from bedtime til morning.

Switch will work normally at all other times.

Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2H-Nzb7KB7F84

So far i think i'm going to order the TP-Link hs100.

It's not exactly API friendly, but the commands it accepts have been captured and are not that complicated - just fire a TCP request with a small pre-set payload and it should be good to go.

As long as TP-Link doesn't change the API this should be fine for most needs:

Example script: https://github.com/ggeorgovassilis/linuxscripts/blob/master/tp-link-hs100-smartplug/hs100.sh

Are the outlets connected to switches?

If not you could use something like this

If they are you can use something like this

Thanks. I was looking at this

Schlage Connect Camelot Touchscreen Deadbolt with Built-In Alarm, Satin Nickel, BE469 CAM 619 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IwbNxbEQ417VG

Which Wink hub do you recommend? I plan to have other Z-Wave devices like switches

They still function like regular light switches. You can control them manually via the wall or remotely.

Note that all ZWave switches that I've seen basically amount to push buttons instead of the typical rocker that most homes use. That is to say, they have a physical switch with both and on and an off, but the switch doesn't physically move to indicate whether it's on or off. They usually have an led built into them that shows this.

If you want to keep your existing switches, check out something like Aeotec's micro-switches: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VWAPU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You install these behind your existing wall switches. Once you do that, your existing switches continue to work the same as before, and you can control them remotely.

Philips Hue has wireless dimmer switches. They don't replace the switch, but you leave the physical switch on at all times, and put this nearby / on top. They control Hue smart bulbs.

I'm using Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ cause I wanted to use it over the existing switch.

With a zwave setup: Linear zwave virtual three way switch targeting your choice of zwave switches, bulbs, outlets, doesn't matter so long as they're zwave.

Here's the switch: https://www.amazon.com/Linear-Z-Wave-3-Way-Accessory-Switch/dp/B00EAY3K5Y

You'll need some way to pair the switch and its targets, either something like a minimote or a smartthings hub. Once paired they are good to go.

you could try one of these in-wall relay micro switches. I have these in my bathroom dual gangbox and they work really great. Single relay switches should be smaller too.

You could just replace can switch one for one.

Or use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OUWABU?pc_redir=T1

Though I think that'd require each light to be a smart bulb/outlet.

I had similar intentions with my laundry room at one point, so I understand where you are coming from, but you might re-consider a simple occupancy switch (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485316261&sr=8-1&keywords=MS-OPS2-WH). For me, the more I thought about it, the more I realized involving my HA system was simply making things more complicated than they needed to be for what I wanted to do.

Ok, after reading your post again... yes you can. This is the kind of switch you want. http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAY3K5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I've used these in places where I have smart bulbs

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

Can be used as a handheld remote control, or there is a bracket you can get for like $5 to mount it in an existing box on your wall

Hey there, I was looking this stuff up recently and came across this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196M620Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like this a lot (though it's a little large). We use it to control the Hue bulbs in our nightstand lamps individually instead of the physical switch. Works like a charm.

Thanks for the suggestions!

While searching for the Aeotec switch, I came across the Vision In Wall Z-Wave Micro Switch, 2 relay (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R883YKU/), which seems to be a cheaper alternative.

Some of the window/door sensors allow you to connect a pair of wires which in this case would allow you to connect alarm wire to the sensor and trigger the z-wave part by pressing the doorbell button connected to the other end of the wire.
I used this one: https://amzn.com/B00HPIYJWU

Once you can send a z-wave command via the doorbell button then you can make it do a number of things. I trigger an MP3 using this z-wave doorbell: https://amzn.com/B0182XG27Q (note that bad reviews are related the the useless wireless button, the actual device is really useful as you can add many other sounds and trigger them with any number of z-wave devices) as well as flash the strobe on a couple of these: https://amzn.com/B00MNYSEKY. Other people have it flash lights, play sounds from their Sonos speakers etc.
This all is assuming you have some sort of HA hub as well.

Thats awesome that you know how to do that [but...](Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lNxVzbT62R80Z)

You can use as many probes as you like. I have many scattered under sinks, toilets, water heater, and washer.

I like the Aeotec Z Wave Water Sensors

I like these because you can still easily turn the lights off when you're done.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550262593&sr=8-3&keywords=lutron+motion+switch

https://github.com/openhab/openhab/wiki/Z-Wave-Binding

> There seems to be an issue with the binding running on the latest oracle VM Beta, on ARM based architectures (e.g. raspberry PI). It manifests itself as messages being received multiple times and causes considerable problems with the operation of the binding. In large networks, the queue can get extremely long, which can delay initialisation considerably and cause potentially long delays in sending messages. Some time has been spent investigating this issue and a solution has not been found - the issue doesn't appear to be with the binding itself as the problem doesn't manifest itself on an other platform. If anyone with the hardware and programming experience can help with this it would be useful.

That's just what this page says. You have a Z-Stick like this connected to an RPi and it's working fine?

Here is the switching device that has metering. Of course you'd need some software or hardware to display the data.
Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition (DSC18103-ZWUS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-Fflub0A1GRC5

Like this that allows you to connect external wires, so you can connect the original switch to it.

My recommendation would be to have a normal switch in A and disconnect all the other switches and wires(you can probably just leave them cold in the wall) and then use pico remotes in the other two locations. They're great because they can screw in right into a standard cover plate. And be placed anywhere since they're battery operated. Sadly they only work with other lutron switches even through a third party hub like a wink hub so you'd have to replace your leviton switch with a lutron one.
Also the dimmable Lutrons don't require a neutral as they basically keep the circuit open just a tiny bit so the can stay powered(think powerdraw of like miliamps) but not enough for the bulbs to turn on.


Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/

Pico + bracket x 2:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQ0/

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/


You can buy them separately if you already have existing ecosystem or you can get this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3XJUAD

Not sure which size recessed lights you are talking about, but I would go with one of these lights if you have the standard in ceiling can:
http://amzn.com/B015KQ29JI
http://amzn.com/B0196M601A
http://amzn.com/B015KQ27SG
http://amzn.com/B0196M5YAS


along with this switch:
http://amzn.com/B0196M620Y

All of them work with the smartthings hub or you can use their hub if you want something cheaper. It gets you the smarts and the classic switch function without having to touch the wiring.

Philips Hue sells switches that are wireless. Can screw them onto the wall or use the included adhesive. I currently use one for a setup in my kitchen. Requires a Hue hub and a hue light, but might be a good solution.Amazon link

Z-wave battery operated ones exist from FirstAlert, but why they don't make a hardwired version is beyond me.

Maybe the Leeo will work for you? Yes it's a detector for your detector.
https://shop.leeo.com/pages/about-leeo-smart-alert

The Smartthings community seems to talk about it:
https://community.smartthings.com/t/leeo-smart-alert-integrate-non-z-wave-smoke-detectors-with-st/56697

It sounds like you want an on/off switch.

GE makes those but other manufacturers probably do as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

>My ideal solution would be a USB or other interfaced radio

Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA02203-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414026842&sr=8-1&keywords=z+stick

I've heard it doesn't work great with R-Pi, but you could probably find a similar platform it cooperates with.

I've been using the GE z-wave toggle switches with SmartThings and haven't had any issues. I initially tried to avoid replacing the switches and put in the smart bulbs but our issue was if the power goes out in the middle of the night the bulbs would then turn on and wake us up. The other added benefit with the switches is that anyone visiting doesn't need anything special to control the lights (parents, friends, dog watchers).

Just as a tip, when installing the switches we had issues with them working in the first hour or so (probably due to needing to do the z-wave network repair). Initially the z-wave network repair was failing. What I found worked was to install the switch, connect to smartthings and do setup for a couple minutes, flip breaker to kill power to switch for 10 minutes, turn breaker back on, and then run the z-wave network repair. Since doing that process we've had zero issues. Hope this helps you out.

Edit: Here is the link to how to do SmartThings Z-Wave Repair :) https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200981864-How-do-I-make-sure-my-Z-Wave-devices-are-routing-optimally-

They're usually wireless. Well controlled wirelessly at least, but wired into the power and load for your lights.

Switches that use the Z-wave wireless protocol are probably the most common. They all require a Z-wave hub of some sort to control them. These are all basic on/off switches, but there are dimmable versions as well that require dimmable but not necessarily smart bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

https://www.amazon.com/HomeSeer-HS-WS100-Z-Wave-Scene-Capable-Switch/dp/B01DFSAAJ4

https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-GoControl-WS15Z-1-Zwave-Switch/dp/B00E1OQN8Y


There's also some that connect via standard wifi and can be used via an app without a hub, although without a hub or hub software like Home Assistant you are still limited in how you can automate them:

https://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Light-Switch-enabled-Amazon/dp/B00DGEGJ02

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU

Thanks for the info. Is this the same one?

https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-VRI06-1LZ-Incandescent-Capable-Dimmer/dp/B001U3Z6YG

It mentions requiring a remote to program them.

I already have this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Aeon-DSA02203-ZWUS-Labs-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1463539102&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=zwave+usb

i was thinking i could get a z-wave wall switch like this. I was hoping there was some kind of wireless/battery powered z-wave switch that i could put on the bedside tables.

On a side note is that GE add on switches basically what i am looking for but not wireless? Meaning do the ge add-on switches simply trigger a different z-wave control (for instance the switch by the door)?

Looking Through Amazon - Search for Zwave Scene

ZWN-SC7 Z-Wave 7-Button Scene Controller
---------------------------------------------------------------
Leviton VRCS4-M0Z Vizia RF + 4-Button Remote Scene Controller
--------------------------------------------------------------
GE 45631 Z-Wave Wireless Keypad Controller
-------------------------------------------------------------
Just the top most three.

Quick followup question- why not just get something like a Logitech Harmony? Why does physically turning off the power to the TV need to be a thing? With that device you could control everything from your phone and also from the remote. Why turn off the power at all?

As an FYI - TRÅDFRI can pair with the Hue Bridge

Keep the trådfri bulbs but get a Hue Bridge instead of the Ikea hub. Then you can pair them with the hue dimmer switch. Works fine for me in my living room that doesn't have any physical switches.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Dimmer-Switch-Installation-Free-Exclusively/dp/B076MGKTGS/

I have the same issue so i went with the following:

1 x Lutron Connected Bulb remote

1 x Cree Connected Light bulb

1 x Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket

1 x Lutron Claro Wall Plate

I leave the light permanently "on", and removed the chain. The bulb is controlled by the remote, which i then put on the wall outside the storage closet so it looks just like a normal light switch for the room.

All up, about $50, no wiring needed, looks like it is meant to be there, and best thing, if you end up expanding your Home Automation with a hub, the remote talks to Wink (although Wink are having trouble with the cree connected bulb lately. The remote also works with GE link bulbs, but you need a Wink hub for that to work.

I have this Aeon one in my sump pump and I've been pleased so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSB45-Sensor/dp/B00H3TJ3P4

This switch has been rock-solid for me, better than my SmartThings buttons.

I got a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12727/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473194366&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+zwave+switch

they seem to come highly recommended and I know at least one person personally that has installed a number of them.

The switch itself looks normal except that the toggle points straght out (so it looks like it's stuck inbetween on and off. Basically it's operation is push up for on and push down for off. GE also makes a dimmer version and a 3 way add on switch.

I've never seen a bulb like that... You might be able to put an in wall switch inside the junction box where the power comes into the hood. Would require some wiring know-how, so only try this if you're comfortable with that kind of thing.

Agree with this as well. There are wall mount kits available also.

Connected Bulb Remote

In wall kit

Edit: if you do decide to go with the lutron option read through the Q&As and reviews on how to pair it with the hue hub if you have hue bulbs

I too am looking to do this (happy I found this).

I was having my gas fireplace serviced this morning and asked about it.

My wall switch for my fireplace has 2 switches. 1 switch is a low power switch to turn on the fireplace, while the 2nd is if I wanted to install a blower.

The guy said since it's a low power switch that want to control I would need to tap into the extra outlet (where there is already a constant flow of 110 amps) and use a Rib Enclosed Power Relay (about $20) to bring the constant power over to the outlet that i would like to control to light my fireplace.

This is the the RIB Enclosed Power Supply he recomended >
https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=L39-100

and I was looking at this outlet on Amazon (as I don't already have a Home Automation Hub in my Home and can't think of a reason to install one just for this).

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3K3N85T4MQW0J&coliid=IR8FUGM8EHTY&psc=1

Let us know how it works out.

There are quite a few to choose from. Below are two I use, but you find a lot more on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511056280&sr=1-5&keywords=idevices&dpID=41mQiJ8aAOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/LUTRON-PD-6WCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511056299&sr=8-1-spons&ppw=fresh&keywords=lutron%2Bcaseta%2Bdimmer&th=1

Well it's not much: https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6WCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lutron+caseta+dimmer&qid=1574102028&sr=8-4

Like the other poster said... try ebay. There was a deal at Home Depot for a while that you got more off if you bought three as well.

One of these should do the trick. Not a switch, but an in-line module that will connect to your hub. Oh yeah, you're gonna need a hub.

The only difference between this version and the newer one is the added buttons on the remote to control lights/switches. The hubs themselves are completely identical once you update it via the app. I own gen1 and it works with Alexa and Smart Home stuff.

This would be the gen2 combo:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3RFC4G/ref=s9_acsd_zgift_hd_bw_bk1AT_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_r=H2VQCVPXM33HSH46B9K9&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=d13f4b4c-2e35-55d8-921b-7be2528345c3&pf_rd_i=10967581

I think you could if you used IFTTT integration with Google Assistant and a Harmony Companion.
https://ifttt.com/google_assistant
https://amzn.com/B00N3RFC4G

Just wire in/plug in a smart plug.
This one should work. TP-Link HS100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734

Seems there are a lot of home automation products being given the "Alexa" discount as shown by checking out with this: TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works w/ Amazon Alexa & Google Assistant (HS100)

The LIFX says it's a 25% discount in checkout. Nice find!

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ltxLBbBTYB6D4

Maybe something like this
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Wireless-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B0196M620Y

That's a switch for power outlet. A light switch needs to go in a box in a wall for light switches.

Such a device looks like https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU

> tplink wifi switched

I like this, so far this seems great, and it does state "single pole" for switch type in the Amazon descriptions so should work I think since I only have two wires

Nope, you can keep the regular one. Like this micro switch

But there is! You just need this and this. The pressure mat is just two wires that connect to the terminals in the door sensor. I'm running ST and the default DH works fine, but I switched to a custom for a better visual aspect. It basically reverses the open/close and reports as Empty and Stepped On instead. Not sure why the mat is so much right now. When I bought mine a year ago they were only $23.

I have to say that they do work very we. Initially I got one for the dog, but after annoyance set in I picked up another and put them outside under my "welcome" mats. Sensor is inside. Now I get a notification any time someone comes to my door, whether they knock or not.

Here is what the mats look like with the custom DH.

Thanks, but I want something that blends in. I found this, but it appears to be out of stock and only one person is selling it for $130. Usual price was $30. https://www.amazon.com/Linear-Z-Wave-3-Way-Accessory-Switch/dp/B00EAY3K5Y

Related products on Amazon actually showed me exactly what I remember seeing before also, here's the link!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01G7OD1F8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=5TEPJ8EECGC1HTAF6VNP&pd_rd_wg=Tp7vt&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=33lB4&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2fe93901-cf5a-11e8-b413-df24a88cfed6

Check out the Kasa switches: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU

Be sure to check your wiring for compatibility.

Use this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/

You can set how long it turns off after it is turned on and stops sensing motion to 10 minutes. Much easier and cheaper than getting a zwave switch + motion sensor or similar.

Assuming you are using Z-Wave:

Hard-wired Interconnected, Z-Wave Smoke/CO detectors don't exist to my knowledge. First Alert has one that has wireless interconnections.

You could get creative with some cheap door contacts and utilize the on-board alarm relays of conventional smoke/co detectors.

I think the best return on your money is figuring out what is causing the false alarms.

Some guidelines that deal with common false alarms:

• Kitchens, Bathrooms, the areas immediately outside kitchen/bathrooms, Furnace/Boiler Rooms - Use Heat and CO detection only.
  
• Move any smoke detector that is in path of any air supply vents or returns.
  
• Large temperature swings can cause false alarms in most detectors (front of doors leading to the outside or garage).
  
• Having detectors in areas that get below freezing or above 100F.
  
• If you have an open floor plan, that complicates smoke/air propagation from the kitchen and bathrooms.

This First Alert smoke/carbon dioxide detector is nice.

The Caseta switch will not control dimming of smart bulbs. It will only control dimming of normal bulbs screwed into lights it switches. Another option is the lamp dimmer which plugs into an outlet and then you plug the lamp into it. Again it will only control a normal bulb. If you’re smart bulbs are zigbee. Lutron makes a wireless pico remote called the connected bulb remote that can be mounted to the wall. That may work for you


Remote:
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9uobAb02YR3KA

Wall bracket:
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5vobAbMH0D9B0

Edited with link

I might as well use this then:

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-DSB45-ZWUS/dp/B00H3TJ3P4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449521684&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+water+sensor#Ask

Do you like the look of the Lutron pico remote on a wall bracket?

Contradicting what I said in my last comment, Lutron is also a good option, but they use a proprietary communication protocol that requires a Lutron hub.

There are several other options that would work with an ST hub, if a design catches your eye:

• Eaton 1
  
  
• Eaton 2
  
  
• Sylvania
  
  
• Aeotec
  
  All of those will work with a Smartthings hub, since it has both zigbee and z-wave.

You could tuck one of these up into the range hood somewhere: Vision In Wall Z-Wave Micro Switch, 2 relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R883YKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Qw94AbMSPQHRX

Thanks. I found this one but it appears you still need a hub of some sort...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I'm totally new to this; setting up my Wink Hub 2 / Sengled Lights today, and only have a few WiFi based outlets / lights right now.

But, here's what I'm looking at to control Zigbee lights that are in a lamp on a "dumb outlet"... SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Wink, or Echo Plus, etc.

For Z-Wave, I found this: NanoMote that seems the most straight-forward or "simple".

Here's a few others I came across as well, https://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/controllers/z-wave-remotes.

Might see if there's a popular controller among this community though!