(Part 3) Top products from r/homeautomation

Okay let's start from the beginning- each of your devices needs to be machine-controllable.

Lights- you can use smart bulbs (Hue etc) or you can use lighting controllers (smart light switches, plug-in dimmer modules, etc). Either way you'll either need a network like Z-Wave or Zigbee or Insteon to control them, which will require a USB RF interface. You could use all WiFi devices but I don't recommend this.

TV- that probably means infrared. Some TVs you can control by serial port, other TVs you can control with network traffic. 99% chance infrared is your best bet though.

Fan- if this is a plug-in fan you can use a plug-in switch module. What kind of fan is it?

Xbox- probably via IR.

Voice control- Alexa or Google Home.

Hub- Home Assistant works, HomeSeer costs money but might be easier to set up.

So to break this down, you need to find a way to interface all these devices with your hub. Let's assume you're using HA.

For the lights, you need a primary control technology, that'll be Z-Wave, Zigbee, Insteon, etc. I suggest Z-Wave as it's got better support in both Home Assistant and HomeSeer. That unfortunately rules out Hue bulbs, but it means you can instead get nice Z-Wave smart light switches and use your existing bulbs. Here's a popular one. If you want super controllability check out the HomeSeer branded switches- they'll work fine with Home Assistant, they have several LEDs that you can program to do whatever, you can decouple the switch (so pushing the button doesn't turn on the light but rather sends a Z-Wave command), program double/triple/quadruple tap actions, etc.

Note that if you really really want Hue lights, Home Assistant and HomeSeer both (somewhat) support ZigBee. You can also buy a Hue Bridge, which is basically an Ethernet-Zigbee interface that's Hue-proprietary, and link that to HA or HomeSeer.

Fan- if it's a plug in fan you need a plug-in appliance/switch module. Here's one. If you have a ceiling fan type thing you'll need a ceiling fan switch. Here's one of those (HomeSeer makes one too).

IR (TV, Xbox, etc)- probably BroadLink devices or Global Cache iTach. Note that if you try HomeSeer, Global Cache works, Broadlink I think does not.

Voice commands- How to integrate Alexa and Home Assistant.

You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.

Smart things

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4

Hubitat

https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4

If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.

Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.


GE Z wave light switch & Extender

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.

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You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.


Z Wave Door Sensor


https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4


Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!


Abode Security System

https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5


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For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!

I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.


Kasa Light Bulbs LB110

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5

Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.

I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version


HASSIO

https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/

Here's what you asked for

Hub:
Wink Hub 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D2e7ybH4AEXCA

Bulbs:
Hue White Ambiance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESW34RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B0e7ybX5B7KF0

Lock:
August Smart Lock (2nd Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_R3e7ybSK95NFG

Outlets:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_04e7ybQXPB1TX

Based on what you said about a nice slick UI I think the Wink 2 wins that battle over a Samsung Smart Things hub. Plus if you get into adding shades Lutron makes a nice z wave shade called the Serena and the Wink 2 can operate Lutron devices without needing another hub. It's not as customizable as Smart Things, but I think it works well and has good support behind it.

The Hue Ambiance bulbs are nice, does tons of white light shades only so it fits your requirements there. You will need a Hue bridge, but that integrates with the Wink 2 nicely.

If you can get the August lock with Z-wave functionality I'd go with that over what I linked because I think the normal August is pretty shit, but it's the only lock I know of where you can assign one time use codes or time sensitive ones. Getting the normal (Bluetooth) August lock online requires the August Connect and its a buggy piece of shit that barely works even with the best connection and very close to the lock. Maybe software will\has fixed it but in my prior experience with it I was very not impressed. You can also add a keypad to the August on the secured side of the door. All those extras add up though, but you can do everything you said was required with the August that I believe no other lock can do.

The outlets are pretty self explanatory, work off Z-wave and only one plug is automated the other is always on.

Alexa can integrate with everything I listed, all you need to do is give everything a unique name and have her find the smart home devices and you can give simple commands like, "Alexa turn off kitchen light" and it'll do it.

You could definitely get more complicated setups but all of these things will work together, you could even pair your Ecobee with the Wink 2 if you wanted to.

>Brainstorming Ideas: Based on a bedrooms temperature -> Turn on/off the smart plug (connected to a window fam).

Perhaps compare inside temp to outside temp, and if former is higher and latter is greater than 60 (or whatever), turn on...? (That is, if it's hoter inside than outside, but not fricken freezing, then turn on.) Great idea, and you could get pretty fancy with it.

>I have an extra android smartphone I would be willing to leave plugged in and in the room to be a permanent thermometer for that sensor.

Temp sensors can be had for less than $20, depending on your home automation system (see below).

>So I'm open to using a product like IFTTT or another IoT product that will link my smart switch to a thermostat sensor (prefer an app on an android device but who knows). (quoted from here)

I'm sure it could be done using Arduino or a Pi system, but I haven't dived in that deep. This could be done with a SmartThings or Hubitat with one of these. I'm pretty sure with either SmartThings or Hubitat you could also compare to outside temp. However, before you commit, double check on the sensor (let me know, and I can double-check for you... there's two different types of these sensors, and I think I've read that one doesn't do well).

edit: Personally, I avoid WiFi devices, since it would clog up my network with a gazillion sensors, bulbs and switches. But, there are two schools of thought, where the other is that it doesn't matter at all. Still, I'd go with Zigbee or Zwave, which gives more flexibility in fulfilling any later genius home automation ideas you might have.

Also (assuming the window is functional) you could pair it with a door/window sensor, to only turn on if open. I use these, but there are cheaper options.

I have two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Control-Smartphone-Simple/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1543109259&sr=1-2&keywords=Harmony+remote


I dont even know where my original fan remotes are anymore. Two are Hunter Douglas, big ones like 52”, and one is something like a Fanimation fan or something like that.



The fan itself is inconsequential. Depending on where you live and the home improvement stores you have, you will find after market fan controllers. Some of those should work with Harmony, too. I personally have never needed to tinker with those but I heard there is a forum out there somewhere where they’ve mapped what controllers work with Harmony.


It would probably still just be easier to call the Harmony support people and reach out to the support folks for whatever fan you’re looking at to see what they say.

You could try fishing a neutral wire from the ceiling fixturewall outlet to the switchbox. I've done it in my house, but I don't know if I would try it in an apartment.

Alternative products: Since this switch controls an outlet, it's against code to use a dimmer switch on it. And dimmer switches are the only "smart" products I'm aware of that can operate without a neutral.

You're probably better off replacing the wall outlet with a smart outlet or any smart wall wart. Here's GE's in-wall smart outlet since you seem to be leaning toward zwave already.

You can control that smart outlet with something like GE's wall controller or velcro an aeotec minimote to the wall and use that. Even better - you could use an Amazon Echo for control - I rarely physically interact with smart switches since I got a modicum of automation running and a few Echos around the house for voice control.

Good choices. Z-Wave in particular is a great platform. It's supported by a hundred manufacturers. It's super low power - Z-Wave devices can have battery life of several years. Z-Wave devices can run with standalone open-source hubs, so you can avoid dependencies on third parties. You can configure SmartThings so most automations happen in the hub, without Internet activity - specifically "Smart Lighting SmartApp" actions like time or sunset-based lighting, or a motion detector turning on a light.

I am not a fan of Wi-Fi smart home devices. Wi-Fi has high power requirements and generally can't run on batteries; it's often in a congested radio band; and most Wi-Fi smart devices rely on proprietary cloud services so if the vendor shuts down your device stops working.

I have a Schlage Connect lock, but that's largely because I already had Schlage locks in my home so it was easy to rekey it to match. I can remotely lock and unlock the door, check the lock status, and add codes for visitors.

For a thermostat, you can use a relatively inexpensive GoControl or Radio Thermostat model. People love the styling of Nest and Ecobee devices but they have no functional advantages over these cheaper units. I have the GoControl model with an external 24V transformer - it's worked great for three years.

Your camera setup will probably remain separate from your home automation.

You could do it but you'd need a Smartthings Hub and a Smartthings Multisensor. There's a custom Smart App for Smartthings that allows you to control the myQ garage door.

Once you get that set up, you have to create a virtual switch in Smartthings. You can link Smartthings to Google Assistant and then make up some shortcuts in Google Assistant. I have done this and now I can say "Hey Google, open the garage door" and the shortcut "turns on" the virtual switch, and vice versa for "Hey Google, close the garage door."

Now, this isn't exactly cheap. The Smartthings Hub is like $99 and the multi sensor is around $30. Then you have to integrate the developer's GitHub repo into the Smartthings IDE. I know that sounds super complicated, but it really isn't bad as they give you instructions on how exactly to do it.

Plus, you get the added benefit of having Smartthings know when your garage door is open or closed, which, if you're anything like me is a god send because when I'm pulling out of my driveway, I go on autopilot and my brain turns off and I typically forget whether I've closed the garage door. No more.

If you have questions about this, I'd be happy to answer. Home automation specifically using Smartthings has become quite the hobby for me.

So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.

> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?

It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.

Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.

But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.

You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.

There is no 2 device single gang zwave switch on the market at the moment. Most people here either:

• expand the box to be a double gang box and then install a z-wave switch for the lights example, and a z-wave switch for the fan. example It's dimmable (3 speeds)
  
  
• Put a single zwave switch in the wall for the lights, and then put a remote dimmer unit for the fan that hides in the electrical box above the ceiling fan. This limits control to an app, voice with google home/alexa, or getting some sort of zwave multi button scene control to stick on the wall.
  
  
• A modification of the previous. Put remote dimmer/switch for BOTH the light and the fan in the electrical box above the fan (may not fit) and then put a zwave scene controller in the original single gang box switch location.
  
  I was fortunate to have double gang boxes in my house, so I was able to use the seperate GE light and fan switches. Both work well.

The device you linked to in the OP is the Harmony Home Control remote, which has HA buttons. The remote model number 915-000194 is the Harmony Smart Control. It's not the same remote, and it lacks the HA buttons.

It will still work with HA devices, but you will not have discrete control of anything outside of activity start/stop using the handheld remote. What this means is that you can setup an activity that will turn on your lights, or set them to a specific dim value, or turn them off. You can do this in conjunction with AV equipment, and you can assign those activities to a button. So, a button on that remote can turn on your TV, set the input to your Roku or whatever, and dim the lights to 20%. There are 3 activity buttons which can be pressed or held for a total of 6 activities that can be launched from the remote.

What you can't do with that remote is assign lights or switches to individual buttons to manually turn on/off switches or increase/decrease dimmers from the remote. You can do that from the mobile app, but that remote does not have the HA control buttons and with current releases of the Harmony software there is no way to map discrete control of HA devices to the 915-000194 remote.

Smart Thermostat: I use the Honeywell Z-Wave thermostat (as my smart home is "mostly" Z-Wave). I considered Ecobee (I hate Nest), but went with this as I don't really need a "learning" thermostat...do this temperature when I am home, do that one when I am not home.

Sprinkler control: Rachio (Amazon Link) - best sprinkler controller I have ever had...depending on where you live, you might even get a rebate on your water due to the water savings this has.

Smart Door Lock: Kwikset (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave as I use Z-Wave. A cool thing about this lock is that you can re-key it yourself.

Temperature Sensor: SmartThings Motion Sensor (Amazon Link) - it reports temperature, and it's ZigBee

Leak Sensor: Samsung SmartThings Leak Sensor (Amazon Link) - it's ZigBee, but I have built out a smaller ZigBee network too.

Garage Door Opener: GoControl (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave.

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Multi-Purpose Sensor: SmartThings (Amazon Link) - Open/Close, Temperature, Vibration: I have one of these on each my closet doors (when I open the door, the closet light turns on...when I close the door the light turns off). I also have one on my Gun Safe (so I get notified if my gun safe door is open...also get vibration notifications if it's being tampered with)

The temperature/motion sensor is a nice combination. For example, I have one of these outside on my lanai. When it detects motion, it turns the fans on...but only if the temperature is over 74 F). I have a few of these inside that turn on small table lamps at night when motion is detected (versus large/bright lights) because the night is dark, and full of terrors.

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Don't know if you have a pool, but I use iAqualink as my pool controller. It has it's own app, and now integrates with Alexa (doesn't integrate with SmartThings yet). But it's nice being able to turn on the spa and spa heater while out for dinner, and having it be up to temperature by the time you get home.

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Oh - and check out Sonos for whole house audio. I SOOOOOOOOO love my Sonos speakers.

Sorry could not resist. I travel a bit and I monitor my indoor lettuce hydroponic garden with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gives me a nice snapshot of what's going on from my phone or tablet. It is indoor only though. Still check my growing area everyday when home. Every successful gardener will check their garden as much as possible.

Good luck and have fun.

Gotcha, well you can still get the basic hub+remote for $135 it looks. I have this, but never use the remote really, cause everything is exposed as switches to my other systems.

There's plenty you can do if you know how to code, but if you aren't writing plugins for HASS you can get away with just learning some basic YAML pretty much, and there's tons of useful resources on the website.

I use this sensor for a lot of things, including temp/humidity. It's also got a light sensor, if that would be in any way helpful there as well. It shows up in HASS with the assortment of sensors that can then be tied to whatever automations and such.

I've been really liking these for the plugs lately: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZNZX8J/

They are nice and compact and also report energy usage if that's needed.

As for the sensor - I've heard good things about these but never personally used them: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/

I have some junky Monoprice ones they cause me a lot of headache. I also have these which seem to work pretty well. I like 10-yeah battery life and how compact and intrusive they are: https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/sensative-z-wave-plus-strips-comfort-indoor-outdoor-temperature-moisture-sensor

I got them on sale though for I think $35 each.

I am legitimately curious. This is my setup. I bought a basic fan/light combo and hooked it up to one of these for fan control.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fYuMBbGS9JV7X

Then I hooked up the light to the matching zwave on/off. I can control both phone phone, wall or Alexa via smartthings. This was my test run before I set up the entire house like this. If there is a better way I am open to it.

Most of this stuff is pretty easy to search for:

• If you want to use the pi than I'd recommend hassio https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/installation/ it should work fine for what you want to do
  
  
• To make it work with zwave you can use any of the sticks on this page https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/z-wave/controllers/ . If you want to do both zwave and zigbee you'll need to use something like this one https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8
  
  
• If you want to control home assistant through homekit you can follow these instructions https://www.home-assistant.io/components/homekit/ , I don't know how well it works since I haven't used it before.
  
  
• For a thermostat you can use any zwave one. It doesn't need to be smart, because you'll just be controlling it from home assistant. For temp sensors, they don't have to pair with the thermostat, just use any zwave temp sensor. I use this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZIRV40K , it's not the prettiest but it works pretty well.

you want the hub primarily for the wifi capabilities so it works with Smartthings or your other wifi devices that you may use. The hub also lets you connect it with alexa so you can turn on activities, change channels, volume, etc. As you mentioned, it does also allow control for stuff in cabinets

/u/glennbarosen get this if you want home control buttons on the remote

or get this if you dont care for home control on your remote. you can still have the activities communicate with your smart home devices (smart bulbs, smart plugs, etc). I use this one and it works great with my smart home stuff

Either choice will let you control your TV, sound system, apple tv, ps4 (ps4 only after it was powered on by controller)

Oh yeah, something like that would be cool after I decide on the hub (I'm like 90% sure I'll want some zwave compatibility). Kind of wish it ALSO had dumb timer options for my hub-less self now, but that is one to definitely bookmark for me, thanks!

This isn't time sensitive, I was just looking in my backyard and thought I'd post to see what was out there. I wonder if I can actually just install one of these (or similiar) in the GFCI outlet (that is encased) actually...

I have a few of these Z-wave Plus Motion Detector, Easy to install with PET Immunity, White (PIRZWAVE2.5-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KGQ0DbYVGQB2J around and they work pretty well. Snappy triggering.

However, like others have said, you might as well spend another 6-8 bucks and get the aeotec trisensor which is just as responsive, more configurable, smaller, and with 2 additional sensors to use.

The switched I used to control fan is below and have had no issues since installing. Again this is just for the fan though as all my fan fixtures in my home were wired to have lights and fan on a separate switches

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x0bbBb4TQTWNZ

Someone else this recommended this to me for fan control. I haven't jumped on things yet for fan control though. Aeotec Nano Dimmer lighting controller, Z-Wave Plus, In-wall, Light dimming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC4CH98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P2iaBb6H8Q40X

For a stand up fan I ended up just going with an IR one. I am a Homeassistant user so it was pretty easy to add it in with my Broadlink mini IR blaster I had already for turning the TV on and off. A quick Google shows they have a smartthings handler for it.

Mostly a gimmick. A fun gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. It really depends on what your budget is. Is approx $20/bulb worth it for a novelty? For me, it was in a few places, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The temperature thing is now a must after having the color and the ambient. I hope to never go back to a single temp bulb again. That's worth $15 premium of the ambient over the cheap white ones.

Get the dimmer switches. 100% worth the money. Then put these guards over your current switches.

Hub + smart control (not Elite/950) is on sale for $64.99. I know it doesn't look like it but this DOES include the hub. You could buy the 950 separately and pair it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7rxHzb1BEGVSF

Edit: Looks like Amazon is out of stock. Best Buy has it for the same price with free 2-day shipping.

> The MyQ seemed like the perfect solution

The way I am reading it, they looked into the MyQ add-on box like this and didn't like it because of the subscription fee, so they are looking for al alternate solution to add smarts to their dumb old garage door opener.

Generally speaking, it's not recommended to put a dimmer on an outlet. Lutron has on/off switches, but they also require a neutral.

But you may be over thinking it. You can just do this and then get the "switch" wall mount for the remote.


Edit: I didn't fully read your post. You can program any of the Lutron remotes to control multiple Lutron lights. Mounting one and having it control multiple I think is the best solution.

I hope your have better luck than me. When I posted my review on Amazon, I got a few responses from people having the same problem.

I moved them from doors to windows since they weren't reliable enough to monitor my doors. I figured if I used them less, they'd be more reliable. However, I'd open the kitchen window to let some fresh air in, and the sensor wouldn't pick up that the window opened. That was the last straw, and I returned them as defective to Amazon. Replaced them with Ecolink units, and they've been bang on reliable. Ecolink's motion sensors have also been pretty solid, although they lack the feature set of more expensive multisensor units.

Depends what kind of hub you have. If you don't have z-wave, you're options are pretty limited. Easiest and safest IMO would be a zwave baseboard thermostat. Something like this, depending on size of heaters, etc: https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Electric-Heater-Thermostats/dp/B01BYL1OAS

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https://www.amazon.ca/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Electronic-Thermostats-Smart/dp/B01BYL1OAS/

I use these z-wave thermostat's for my electric baseboards...I quite like them as they are easy to set up and configure. I use a pi running HA and a z-stick.

Now if I can only figure out how to get the "outside temperature" feature to work with a virtual temperature sensor....

Lutron has a lamp outlet dimmer switch but you'll need to get the hub as well. There's a home assistant component which would then allow you to feed in the sunrise schedule.

I'm doubtful that a standalone dimmer like you're describing exists.

Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer and Remote Kit, P-PKG1P-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q7GPCbYBJ7WJ8

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FKG.AbWW6XQEJ

To my knowledge you aren't supposed to use a dimmer on a fan

A Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer along with a wireless remote can do this. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0

You can mount the remote on the wall using the wall mount kit (not included with the kit above, but should be pretty easy to find). If you no longer use the switch that you’re trying to replace, you could remove that switch, tie the wires together to make that receptacle always on, then mount this wireless remote right on top of the old switch location.

If you can stretch your $50 budget to $83, then you can get one smarthings hub and one GE outlet

I did this a couple weeks ago. Easy to set up; works great.

I would go zwave. I have two of these Ecolink motion detectors that I use with an Aeotec Zwave stick. Their range back to the hub is very good and are great on battery. I moved the jumper on these so that they reset after motion in seconds instead of minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Motion-Detector-PIRZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B01MQXXG0I?th=1

More than just temp and humidity, so might be overkill for you, but I have one of these that I really love:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_sc_1

Not only is it battery powered, but it comes with a usb cable so you can plug it in if you are close to an outlet

Lutron Caseta will take care of that for you. Bonus: you can plug two lamps in to one, however they can't be independently controlled.

If you end up getting a hub then you can use your iPhone, or Alexa, amongst other devices to control them, however I wouldn't bother with the hub unless you expanded the switches to multiple areas of your house...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/

Harmony hub and remote $45.

Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple All In One Remote - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jga-BbSYJ98KX

Not to state the obvious but this pretty much the main selling point of smart switches instead of smart bulbs.

If you’re renting or otherwise can’t modify the wiring for some reason, some physical “childproof” cover should work - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/

I don't have Aeotec's door sensor but I do have the multisensor 6. I also will not be buying any more sensors after that experience. Hardwired the motion sensor works ok but I question the readings I get from the other sensors. On batteries it's a crapshoot, which sucks because I really want more to use some more of those types of sensors.

For door sensors I'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5 and they work great.

>Is there a way to make the device to default "on" when plugged in?

In general, this is going to need physical tinkering, like bypassing the on/off with wires. You need a certain level of electrical knowledge to do this safely, and will void warranties and so on in the process. It's usually simpler to buy a different device with a different kind of switch on it, or that's already "Smart".

The night light you link to shows a remote control. There are a number of "Smart Remote Controllers" on the market (example 1, example 2). Possibly you can make use of one of them to control the item in this case.

I've done this same thing and love it.

A couple of small issues:

1. There is a slight delay before the light comes on. In truth, the light probably comes on quicker than it would if I reached for the light switch. But since I'm opening the door expecting the light to be on, the delay is noticeable.
   
   
2. I found myself reflexively turning the light off when leaving the closet. I bought some of these switch covers and that has solved that problem.
   
   Even with those issues, I just love this feature.

OK i'm not very familiar with how the Zwave stick's work so i'm definitely not the one to point you in the right direction sorry about that. but i did find this on amazon its $80 bucks idk if that will work it has great reviews http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Battery-Powered-Z-Wave-Thermostat-GC-TBZ48/dp/B00ZIRV40K/ref=sr_1_50?ie=UTF8&qid=1449175522&sr=8-50-spons&keywords=zwave+thermostat&psc=1

If you want an off the shelf solution, this will work with just about any door opener with minimal setup. I have it at my house and love it. Let me know if you have any questions on it.

Chamberlain MYQ-G0201 MyQ-Garage Controls Your Garage Door Opener with Your Smartphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EAD65UW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HBPdzbYJGDGSZ

Pretty sure you can use this. Much like the one you linked from Home Depot, it can be installed in the fan canopy. The wall switch will still work to turn the whole thing on and off, but when on, you can control the can and light separately- or create a virtual switch to turn them on/off simultaneously

The Broadlink RM Mini 3 is down to $15, great for automating anything that needs an IR signal like an air conditioner.

https://smile.amazon.com/Broadlink-RM-Mini3-Universal-Controller-Compatible/dp/B01FK2SDOC

I'm looking to do this too, and it looks like the Stelpro KI STZW402WB+ is the way to go as /u/jryanishere mentioned.

It's worth noting, that hooking a Nest up via a relay is NOT supported. Nest have taken down their community forum that had a good guide on how to do it. There are others on the web, but I'd steer clear.

Which MyQ system do you have?
Ceiling Mounted
or
Wall Panel

With the wall panel version you can set an auto-close timer right on the wall panel.
I had originally bought the ceiling mounted one myself but found it wasn't reliable and lacked this feature. I switched to the wall panel one and it works much more quickly and has the auto-close timer. Much easier to install as well. If you have the ceiling mounted one I would return it and switch if it isn't too late.

You could use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME

I think Aeotec makes a dual switch one as well.

Otherwise you could just remove the current gang box and put in a larger one to accommodate 2 smart switches.

Sorry, by fan controller I mean basically a switch that would require a hub. For example you could get this z-wave switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2VSKBbVYZQZJ6

And a smartthings hub (or rpi with home assistant). Like I said, I recommend this approach in particular if you want to get more into home automation.

Items like this are what I am looking at.... other suggestions would be very appreciated.

What do you use to control the fan? I have a homeseer dimmer to control the light right now. Not sure how to control the fan. Would the Aeotec nano dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Dimmer-lighting-controller-dimming/dp/B06XC4CH98) work? Website says can control fan up to 100w.

So I just built a new house, and the builders installed a MyQ-compatible motor (has the little MyQ logo on it). In this case, all one would need is this.

If your garage door is NOT MyQ-compatible, one would need this instead. This option is able to control non-MyQ garage doors. From Amazon: "MyQ Garage works with most major brands of garage door openers made after 1993. Compatibility is based on whether existing garage doors and openers are equipped with adequate safety features, such as sensor eyes. For more information about compatibility, visit Chamberlain.com/MyQGarage"

Totally agree - and frankly VLANs are too much of a pain to deal with anyway.

To answer your original question, I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I

I removed the jumper (making the pet immunity thing moot) and am very happy about coverage and response time. Batteries should last a couple years.

For electric baseboards: https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Thermostat-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

For the main oil heating zones, I would honestly do a few more z-wave thermostats then pull it all together with your home automation software of choice (Home Assistant, HomeSeer, Smart Things, Wink, etc...)

Depending on what was used for floor heating, you may not be able to do much with this besides wire something for on/off.

I don't know about benefits of one over the other, but ZWave tilt sensors certainly exist. The one I bought from Amazon is no longer available but there's this one for the same price: https://smile.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Plated-Reliability-Garage-TILT-ZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01MRZB0NT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=25P535CRX31DE&keywords=zwave+garage+door+sensor&qid=1550239563&s=electronics&sprefix=zwave+gara%2Celectronics%2C121&sr=1-3

Mine is solid and works well.

Here's the zwave device I used with the wire terminals: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5

Edit: More details about how I wired it...

Took the chime box off the wall and there were two cables, each with a pair of wires inside. One pair of wires goes to the transformer in the basement. The other pair of wires goes to the doorbell itself. That's what you want to plug into the doohickey linked above. Someone presses the doorbell and it closes the contact. Home Assistant will see the zwave device status as "open" as if a door is open. This is what you trigger your automation off of.

How to know which pair of wires is the one you want? Either get a multimeter and put it across a pair while you're five year old pushes the doorbell. Does resistance go to zero? If so, you found it.

The other method is to just rub the wires in a pair together. The one that sparks is not the one you want because that goes to your transformer (you're seeing 12 volts spark across it. Not much more dangerous than licking a 9v battery). Grab the other pair and plug them into the doohickey. This is the method I used.

I just taped the door sensor to the top of the chime box and I can't see it from the ground.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW

​

This is a good one, if work with SmartThings and can set up each smart plug as a different device. I use a few of these.

The issue I had when trying to figure this out was that any Z-Wave contact sensor I tried to use while it was mounted inside the mailbox was unreliable, at best. The RF signal was getting blocked by the mailbox when it was closed. I solved it by mounting this open/close sensor to the underside of the mailbox, mounting this magnetic sensor inside the mailbox at the door, and running the lead from the magnetic sensor through a tiny hole in the bottom of the mailbox, connecting it to the auxiliary input terminals hidden inside the z-wave sensor. If that doesn't make sense, DM me.

​

Edit: Obviously this would also require a hub such as SmartThings, etc., to send out the notifications.

Edit 2: After a quick search, it appears there may be some WiFi dry contact sensors out there that would probably do what you want without the need for a separate hub, if you have signal at the mailbox.

best Zwave motion sensor. Hands down! Has pet immunity for 25lbs and up dogs or the option to change it to 55lb and up. Very accurate and range is the best from all zwave motion sensors

> Genie products don't work with MyQ.

Partly correct. Genie intellicode 1/2 openers with 315/390 MHz remotes work perfectly with the Chamberlain MyQ Garage Hub.

The Genie 1028 falls in this category. So it should work with the Chamberlain/Liftmaster MyQ-G0201 Garage Hub.

I used the below sensors to block off areas of the home. They don't totally overlap areas, but I find the trick is a little bit of overkill for each room. I actually have the slightly older version of this sensor and it works great. The real trick is setting a virtual timer that resets if any of that room's sensors are activated

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQXXG0I/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

the other ways are probably safer if you are not sure.

but just a receptacle like http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY
and a relay.


its very similar to this setup
http://www.instructables.com/id/Z-Wave-Garage-Door-Opener-Switch/?ALLSTEPS


plus i have a zwave door / window sensor to tell me the garage door state.

I created a setup where I have the exact same thing happen for me, but with the coffee machine. I use Vera, but I'm guessing you might be able to create something for another home automation setup...

Here's the basic setup:
Security sensor mat placed in my bed senses when I'm laying down. The mat is wired into a door sensor. When I wake up, the door sensor trips and starts a timer. Should the timer complete, the appliance plug the coffee machine is plugged into turns on. 1/2 hour later it automatically shuts off.

The reason for the timer is so that I can get up in the middle of the night for a snack and come back to bed WITHOUT turning the coffee machine on.

Here's what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUNX7WY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd make sure to use these two items together. I pulled the alarm off of the door mat and wired the two wires into the phoenix connector screws already supplied inside the door sensor. The timer was a plug-in in the vera controller.

Never tried it myself but read about this device in this subreddit, Broadlink RM Mini3 might work. Bit cheaper too than the Harmony Hub. But I dont have any experience with it. I was planning to get one myself just to see what it can do.

Something like this wouldn't work?

http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC06106-ZWUS-Z-Wave-Energy/dp/B007UZH7B8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454273432&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+plug

or this :
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC25-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B00H5U40L8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1454273504&sr=8-4&keywords=zwave+plug+dimmer

or this:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1454273504&sr=8-8&keywords=zwave+plug+dimmer

I don't expect you could use that for a fan. When I last searched, a few months ago, the only fan switches were stand-alone. Example
Are your light switches going to on/off or dimmable? if on/off and the outlet load is under 10amps, you should be able to find a dual switch for for the lights & outlet.
Another option might be on/off controls via relays. I haven't looked into that as I wanted fan speed control and light dimming but it might work.
You may want to look into replacing the light switch with a HomeSeer model with the double-tap feature if that can be configured as a virtual switch in your gateway to control an outlet

If it’s anything like the whole house fan my parents had, you’d just need to replace that controller with a smart switch. You’d lose the ability to adjust the speed though.

Amazon has SmartThings Motion sensors for $39 and Multipurpose Sensors for $20.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0118RQW3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cApgAbYE481TA

They also have Sengled Smart Bulbs Dimmable Bulbs for about $10: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M5RT6L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RxpgAbH46K2J7

Wink has their Relay touch screen for $29:
https://www.wink.com/products/wink-relay-touchscreen-controller/

They're usually wireless. Well controlled wirelessly at least, but wired into the power and load for your lights.

Switches that use the Z-wave wireless protocol are probably the most common. They all require a Z-wave hub of some sort to control them. These are all basic on/off switches, but there are dimmable versions as well that require dimmable but not necessarily smart bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

https://www.amazon.com/HomeSeer-HS-WS100-Z-Wave-Scene-Capable-Switch/dp/B01DFSAAJ4

https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-GoControl-WS15Z-1-Zwave-Switch/dp/B00E1OQN8Y


There's also some that connect via standard wifi and can be used via an app without a hub, although without a hub or hub software like Home Assistant you are still limited in how you can automate them:

https://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Light-Switch-enabled-Amazon/dp/B00DGEGJ02

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU

Aeotec makes some good ones:

https://www.amazon.ca/Aeon-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Multi-Sensor-ZW100/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540994703&sr=8-1&keywords=aeotec+multisensor+6

That's just an on/off switch - full fan control with speeds is not supported by the caseta line.

Edit: for example, this GE z-wave fan switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTKQTTV/

I used this with good luck:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Incandescent-Fluorescent-Optional-Consumption/dp/B06XC4CH98

The Lutron Caseta plug-in dimmer might be a good choice. Amazon Link.

I did it with a relay switch and wired it to the garage opener. I also needed to wire a power cord to it so that I can plug it into a Z-wave Plug-in switch. Then I set a rule on my hub to switch it on and off immediately. This action replicates the shorting of the wire that a normal garage button does. This method is easiest compatibility since you can use whatever Plug-in switch that works with your hub, and it also acts as another repeater for your other z-wave devices.

This site goes into more details on how to wire everything: http://24-7-home-security.com/how-to-make-a-smart-garage-door-opener-that-works-with-any-protocol/

I also bought the Z-wave tilt sensor and mount on the garage door, which lets me know when the garage is opened or closed.

Go get one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRZB0NT

Pop the cover and attach wires from doorbell to provided screw terminals inside. Add to Z-Wave hub. Configure sensor in HA to trigger some doorbell action. e.g.

• service: tts.google_say
  entity_id: media_player.google_home
  data: message: 'Ding Dong. Someone is at the front door.'
  
  Caveat: doorbell switch cannot be the lighted variety. Gotta disconnect that bulb if it is.
  
  edit: formatting

The Logitech Harmony remote and hub are back down to $70. It was this price last week.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ5RYI4?psc=1

Aeotec by Aeon Labs DSC11 Smart Power Strip Z-Wave Power Sockets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Oh7DAbCFQ66EE

Why not get a garage door sensor or a smart plug that the humidifier is plugged into?

Z-wave Plus Gold Plated Reliability Garage Door Tilt Sensor, White (TILT-ZWAVE2.5-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRZB0NT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IjkGAb652W3A7

In theory, you could use one of the dual relays to connect both the fan and the light switch. The only downside is that you won't be able to control the fan speed.

https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480261041&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+relay+z-wave

You don't need the pro hub anymore, it works with the regular hub. I don't think the pico remote is individually programmable with HA yet but you could use this lamp dimmer if you just want to turn it on and off.

Mine was cheaper because I bought my hub and a bunch of sensors as a kit, used.

But, something like this mulitpurpose sensor and this smart outlet.

I have all of my automations run through webcore so that's what I used.

i read where someone used a recessed door sensor and put it inside where the deadbolt locks. when it's locked, the sensor is 'closed' and when unlocked it's 'open'.

like this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Door-Sensor-ZW089-Aeotec/dp/B0151Z49BO

what about something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Controls-Required-SmartThings-14287/dp/B06XTKQTTV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526997816&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+z+wave+fan+controller

Heads up! Just discovered the following this weekend, and it baffled and annoyed me up until now. If you're using the Samsung SmartThings sensor...

while it might make aesthetical sense to put the smaller magnetic part on the door or window, the sensor itself (larger part) needs motion (accelerometer?) to trigger a state change alert back to your hub. I had it set up the other way around and was getting really upset at the product and Samsung for not working properly. Switched them around and now I'm golden, and faith restored in the Samsung SmartThings products.

They can be useful to help lower your overall energy usage/bill, but a combination of devices will get you the most.

I use this to monitor the whole house, compare consumption over time, estimate my next bill.

Now lets get dirty and figure out how much is being pulled from each outlet. Something simple and portable... get this.

Next consider what appliances/devices must be on 24/7.... router, sure. Phone charger... probably not. TV, amplifier, room echo... then try this can you can set powering devices to schedules

You might consider some of the multi-sensors like Aeon Labs' that not only do temp and humidity, but also light and motion. You can leverage that info a number of different ways. That's for z-wave of course, but there are similar ones for other protocols depending on what you've got.

That is a very broad question. Could you be more specific about which devices you would like to automate, and which features you would like along with it?

Popular Devices to Automate:

• Lights
  
• Thermostat
  
• Door Locks
  
• Garage Door
  
• Irrigation System
  
• AV Equipment
  
  Popular Automation Features:
  
  
• Presence Detection
  
• Motion-Activated Lighting
  
• Spoken Alerts
  
• Push Notifications
  
• Remote Accessibility
  
• Media Center Controlled Lighting
  
  If you say "everything," then be prepared to shell out $10,000+. If you want to automate just lights, you're probably looking at a couple hundred dollars per room.
  
  Also, please be aware that there are at least two ways to automate lighting: smart bulbs and smart switches
  
  I think the cheapest and most user-friendly route would be to use Belkin WeMo Light Switches. The Echo has native support for this device, and they do not require anything more than your existing WiFi. If it were me, I would not go this route due to the constant problems that some users experience with WeMo.
  
  Of course, you could get by way cheaper by using 433MHz RF switches/outlets, an RF transmitter, and a Hue emulator, but those lack security, and this requires getting your hands dirty with coding and configurations.
  
  In the end, there is not really a "perfect" solution.

I have this one and it works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW

Zwave. Needs a hub or controller.

I’ve never had luck with ST equipment.

I recommend Ecolink. I have a bunch and they are very reliable.
https://www.amazon.com/Z-wave-Detector-install-Immunity-PIRZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01MQXXG0I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540477116&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ecolink&dpPl=1&dpID=21fzaKRzb6L&ref=plSrch

Everybody always wants to start small, trust me it doesn't last long. Prepare to open your wallet.


If you are just looking to do the Garage door, you probably want to start with the Chamberlain MyQ. No hub required and it will do what you want.

The thermostat I have no idea, depends on if they have an API the would interface with other Hubs or devices. Might be worth looking into. If not I highly recommend the Ecobee3.

for that many lights, have you considered maybe using a smart switch?

As far as motion activation goes you can use a WeMo motion sensor bought used or from eBay. I say that cause their discontinued, but it's an idea.

Aeon Labs makes one

https://smile.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC11-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8

I have one and it works just fine.

I have electric baseboard heat in my basement.

This is what I use to control it.

It works great.

Beat's the hell out of my old setup of a transformer, relay, and standard stat.

Pick a controller of your choice to control them all. Home Assistant on a Pi would be the cheapest local solution to get going.

Is using a wifi light switch that can be controlled from your phone not what you are looking for?

If that works, I am a fan of WeMo. I have tried a couple others and they seem to be a bit glitchy, but I’ve never had any issues with WeMo.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_S1BZzbY2198R4

Not OP, but I got this one after google decided to shut down their api for the nest. Hooked up a c wire and it's been running great. There are some mixed reviews when using batteries, but I hate having to rely on batteries for things unless I have to.

You could just buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Dimmer-Wireless-Remote-Control/dp/B00IUGQSKM/

and if you want to have Alexa control it, you can either build your own IR device or buy one.

DIY: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JysKXOdrOlM&feature=youtu.be

already built but not as flexible: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC/

it may be a round about way to do it, and it will require some work, but it will do what you are asking.

I can't believe no one has said this yet. It does need a HUB though...

I'm using ecolink sensors, thinking of buying these. I just don't ever want to have to fuss with changing out batteries ever again, whether 1 month of 5 months or a year later. Just want to wire them and be done with it.

Here are some options for a Z-Wave power outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Receptacle-Resistant-14288/dp/B07361JZ2H/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-2&keywords=zwave+power+outlet

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+power+outlet

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DZR15-1RZ-Controls-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B01N6HT2YN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-5&keywords=zwave+power+outlet

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-6&keywords=zwave+power+outlet

I almost pulled the trigger on one of these, but wouldn't it make more sense (and be a bit cheaper) to simply replace the outlet itself?

Amazon

MYQ-G0201

This is the one that OP bought

http://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-MYQ-G0201-MyQ-Garage-Controls-Smartphone/dp/B00EAD65UW/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1427651288&sr=1-2&keywords=myq

Is that this kit? I would need one kit for each garage door?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EAD65UW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m33kzbTAQKRC2

This one has prime, same thing: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=twister_B07RR5V7SN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Apparently some Caseta switches do. I didn't know this. Some don't though.

This one does not: https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S?sa-no-redirect=1

As far as I am aware the dimmers will work weather you have a neutral or not. As for the non dimmer you need a specific model that doesn't need neutral. The PD-5WS-DV switch.

This one doesn't require a neutral: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S

Lutron's RF PD-5S-DV-WH and Caseta PD-5WS-DV-WH switches do not require a neutral for most applications.

I believe this one is an on/off switch that does not require a neutral.

This one will control off/on state, but not speed. Don't use the Caseta Dimmer model, as it won't work. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Switch-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S/ref=sr_1_9?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1474586308&sr=1-9&keywords=lutron+caseta

I have two of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZIRV40K?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Only had them a month so can't say how long the batteries hold up yet though but they've been working as expected

I just bought this for Home Assistant

Though it was a little cheaper when I ordered it.

This is what you need:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_epMlxb1HFWVJB

Z wave recessed door sensor?

Half the cost at Monoprice.

recesses door sensor is my recomendation

http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Door-Sensor-ZW089--Aeotec/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462661137&sr=8-3&keywords=ZWAVE+DOOR+SENSOR

Does anyone have any experience with the Aeon Labs ZW100 Multisensor?

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW100-Multisensor/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481048866&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+motion

Aeotec Multisensor 6, Z-Wave Plus 6-in1 motion, temperature, humidity, light, UV, vibration sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vOgPDb5QQA5FZ

I just ordered a couple of these.

Stelpro Z-Wave Plus KI STZW402WB+ Thermostat (White) for Electric Baseboards and Convectors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYL1OAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yap9BbV3PDQET

Stelpro offers such a product. I have never used it, so can't help you with a review:

https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

Maybe this Stelpro KI STZW402WB+ Thermostat for Electric Baseboards and Convectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYL1OAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XBr6AbR8BCPXT

I'd double check that it would work with those blinds, but most of these guys can be trained for just about any IR signalling, so it should work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_2KfYDbCPNRW0Z

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MHoJzbTDMR82G

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FK2SDOC/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_2_w

https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME

https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME

Same here.

EDIT: FWIW I was thinking of this Link

It recently dropped $1.09 in price since yesterday.

Z-wave Plus Motion Detector, Easy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

What about simply installing a tilt sensor on the garage door and using that (with a hub) to turn on lights in the garage? Ecolink makes a very reliable Z-Wave tilt sensor and there are many Z-Wave wall switches to choose from (including this very snazzy one).

Those are called ‘tilt sensors ’

Another option is to use a simple contact but you’ll need a GPIO and that till drive up your costs

added links
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I use these. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2D8ZB28U2ANK0&keywords=ecolink+door+sensor&qid=1569350793&s=gateway&sprefix=ecolink%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-3

While I don't use a smatthings hub, they are on the list of Works with Smartthings.

unicorn. and Nest isn't the answer for everyone.

You can use hardwired Kidde CO and Smoke detectors with relays wired to z-wave sensors (or esp866, arduinno, raspberrypi, etc)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDDVAW/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI/

the zwave sensor commonly used is:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/

I post this often as this method has worked for me for a while:

I just recently connected this to my garage opener(Momentary Option): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5HB4U5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And used this genius method of using a door sensor since all of the tilt sensors seemed to be buggy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o49xC-AXY9w

Aeotech makes the micro dimmer and newer nano dimmer that do the same thing, but using the zwave protocol.

Aeotec Nano Dimmer. Works with or without a neutral (2 or 3 wire), designed for LEDs, and Aeotec gear is SmartThings integrated via Z-Wave so no need for a Lutron hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC4CH98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488199180&sr=8-1&keywords=%22nano+dimmer%22

Aeotec just released a dimmer that doesn't require a neutral.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC4CH98/

I'm not 100% on this, but I think you could install a relay such as this in the lighting box where your power is coming in.

You should be able to use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC4CH98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_464Qzb0DXP5YD

You could get some of these:https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XP9M2FT&pd_rd_r=28848c2c-dd1f-11e8-a3d1-552a6c0f9979&pd_rd_w=ChFCN&pd_rd_wg=FVCwE&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=1W59ZG85B8TV0NDGQE0N&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=1W59ZG85B8TV0NDGQE0N

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-protects-lights-circuits-accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517699357&sr=8-1&keywords=light+switch+blocker

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Protects-Lights-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B06XP9M2FT

I covered all of my switches with these

It's enough for me to remember not to switch them, for my guests to realize they probably shouldn't switch them, but for me or guests to be able to do so if necessary.

zwave plus version

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-14287-Control-Z-Wave-Plus/dp/B06XTKQTTV/

What about this?
GoControl Thermostat, Z-Wave, Battery-Powered, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZIRV40K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BlsCDb0H4XET6

Or, any other z wave or zigbee model should work. I was thinking wrong at first cause I was assuming your smart home itself is internet connected (like SMARTTHINGS), but I assume it’s not.

Or get the AA powered GoControl one. It works well with Wink, and Honeywell/2Gig alarm systems

https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

This is for line voltage thermostats. Not sure if yours fits that bill

What hub do you have? You can get a door censor or a 'tilt sensor' like this one https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Z-Wave-TILT-ZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B01MRZB0NT?th=1 if you just want to see if it's open or closed. You wont be able to open or close it from the app, but at least see the status.

Samsung SmartThings Multipurpose Sensor - $30

Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensor - $30

The lowest price ever offered on Amazon according to Camel3x.

If its a european frequency there's no chance of it working with a US hub. Period.

why not go with these:

http://www.amazon.com/NYCE-NCZ-3011-HA-ZigBee-Window-Sensor/dp/B00WTE61FI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465176632&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=zigbee+open+close

they're maybe a little thicker but still very tiny

or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Z-wave-Window-Sensor-rechargeable-battery/dp/B01E0OMQR6/ref=pd_sim_421_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=3143ovC4LML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&refRID=01QQHKVCRGTKF7VPY6XC

and this is invisible on a door:

http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Door-Sensor-ZW089-Aeotec/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=pd_sim_421_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31oLnDLu6ZL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR236%2C320_&refRID=01QQHKVCRGTKF7VPY6XC

as is this hinge sensor:

http://www.amazon.com/NYCE-NCZ-3010-2-HA-Door-Hinge-Sensor/dp/B01C3HFAV6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465176766&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=zigbee+open+close+nyce+hinge

Couldn't you use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523019242&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+multisensor

To detect if vibration has stopped?

>Whatever you do don't get this guy or any crap from this company! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G7OD3ME/

Wait, why not? I have one of those, and had nothing but good things to say about it. (I put enerwave and monoprice at about the same point, feature and quality wise.)

Maybe this? Most of the typical home automation switches will require a hub ($100+) but this one doesn't. Downside is that if the switch is off, triggering this won't work. But you could always turn the switch on before bed and turn the light off with the app.

This guy is a little more expensive but solves the problem of being able to control it seamlessly through the physical switch and the app.

In either case, getting it to sync with your alarm might require a bit of dev, or you could just set the timer in the associated app if your schedule doesn't vary much.

Sorry, you are right, that is the wrong caseta switch. The pro version does not require a neutral.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NO7Z80S/ref=psdcmw_6291359011_t1_B017LRCG38

http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Pages/SupportCenter/Support.aspx?modelNumber=PD-5WS-DV&SECTION=Documents

Ecolink TLT-ZWAVE2. In the 3 years I've had it, I've seen once or twice that I missed a status change, but I don't know what was actually at fault. I know one other person with one (who I heard about it from), and haven't heard any complaints from him.

I bought this thing, am I correct in assuming that I am screwed?