(Part 3) Top products from r/homedefense

No prob- I really don't like crazy annoying neighbors too so I sympathize with you on the battle :)

I use this one in my attic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M1C03U2
Anything that is to POE standard will work. Do be sure you get a camera that supports PoE. They are a bit more but make for a much easier install. Injectors work too, just will need more wiring.

The problem with DVR boxes like the Amcrest mentioned is they aren't really upgradeable and I don't think they'll have near the feature set that a PC running BI will. With that said however, they are MUCH simpler which is a plus.

Excellent choice on the Camera. I have one of that model and it's great. Great bang for the buck and super small.

I agree that a DVR would be the fastest setup. I've never used any of the cloud services primarily because of companies like Foscam's track record of being hacked.


As far as I understand the numbers, a single 4 megapixel camera like that Amcrest will require roughly 12 megabits of bandwidth for full resolution. You connection being 12mbps down is most likely 2-4mbps up.(Gotta love comcast...) This will make real-time remote viewing difficult. There are two tools for this issue.

1. You can transcode the live feed into a more efficient, lower resolution, higher compression feed. BlueIris does a good job of this.
   
2. You can record and store the clips in full resolution and gradually upload them to cloud storage if required.
   
   You'll find that 99% of the time the cameras will be recording nothing so keeping footage of nothing is often pointless.
   
   My setup is this at home: I have a camera overlooking my driveway and another over my front door. The front door camera will detect when someone is at the door and "trigger". This will record the last 10 seconds of both the front door and driveway cameras while also sending an email to me with still photos from each camera. The number of times i've caught UPS/USPS/Fedex dropping my packages has been disturbing... Anyway, this setup requires very little disk because it's only recording when it detects motion. At any time I can go back and see all the motion events and play them in full resolution for either camera.
   
   If I'm not mistaken, the distance limit for Cat6 is 328ft. Given that you're going to be needing performance for multiple cameras, I would err on the side of safety and use one or two switches. Over distance, your performance may degrade but still should be within acceptable limits. There is also a distance limit for PoE, might need to keep that in mind too.
   
   My other tip would be that you'll need to be mindful of security here too. Make sure to use a firewall and do not open the cameras themselves up to the internet as the firmware is often insecure. Only open the feed from your DVR/BI box and not the actual cameras themselves.
   
   Good luck!

Anytime!

We've seen so many people get ripped off, it's not even funny...

For motion lighting, there are only two options worth going anywhere near.

If you have the money, the STARTLE is on another level from any of the other ones. It's a legit 9600 lumens. No exaggeration, it's as bright as FIVE of the best ones from Home Depot/Lowes.
https://www.globalsecurityexperts.com/products/outdoor-security-lighting.html

If that's out of your price range, the only other way to go is RAB Stealth. Any of the one sold at the big box stores (e.g. Defiant/Utilitech/AllPro) are JUNK. The sensor will register false positives all the time (e.g. go off from wind, phantoms, ghosts, etc). Within 18 months to two years, it will be on all night.

Ask me how I know this :)

Here is the RAB.

https://www.amazon.com/RAB-Lighting-STL360HB-Precision-Detection/dp/B000W3UH4O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473055847&sr=8-3&keywords=rab+stealth+motion

They come in white as well. Amazon has a 2-pack for $130. Get two bright LED bulbs and you are good to go.

But seriously, the STARLE is on another level. Think like sports stadium/highway workers bright.

>I hate guns

This is a response that a lot of people have who didn't grow up around guns. However, don't let that emotional response affect your safety. If you're open minded in having the best self defense tool available, go take a gun safety course. Preferably one that includes live fire after classroom instruction. This will demystify firearms, which for most people, removes the fear of them. After this, you should still have a healthy respect for them and what they can do. To keep them inaccessible to your children, get a quick access safe.

Whether or not you get a gun, here's some other things you can do:

• Door Jamb reinforcement kit. These cost between $8 and $70 depending on how heavy duty you want to go, but they will make your door many times stronger than it is currently. Here's a basic one: https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-10385-Strike-Accommodates-Centers/dp/B00D2K33NG/ - this comes with 3 inch screws to anchor into your studs behind your door frame.
  
• Replace hinge screws with 3 inch screws. If you have the door jamb reinforcement kit, you should do this too to take care of the hinges which may still be vulnerable to kick ins.
  
• Additional door security: https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-11126-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00QR2QCJI - these will make it harder to break in while you're home.
  
• Additional door security: https://www.amazon.com/South-Main-Hardware-810185-Adjustable/dp/B0742TN5X6 - another thing to keep your door closed.
  
• If you have a window near your door that could be broken to unlock the door, consider window security film, which will make it harder to break.
  
• Get a monitored alarm system. Either professional install (ADT, etc.) or one that you install yourself (SimpliSafe, Abode, Scout, etc.). Typically the ones you install yourself do not come with contracts, but you have to buy the equipment up front.
  
• Security cameras can get expensive, and they can't stop a crime in progress, although they may be a deterrent if a would-be burglar sees them. I would skip this until your budget increases. The money you would have spent on that will go further with the other suggestions mentioned.
  
• That being said, a doorbell camera (Ring, Skybell) can be a great tool for when you're not home. Some burglars will knock or ring the doorbell to determine if the house is empty (they would rather break into an empty house). If you have a doorbell camera, you can respond to them when they knock or ring, making them think that you are actually home which is likely to make them leave.

Depends on if there's an easy way to climb up to your windows.

Something like this would be ideal for a door, but make sure there's enough clearance to install it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/

If there's not enough clearance, then something like this could be your next best bet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RI7OQ0/

Not sure this will fit all your needs, but I'll try.

Please understand the fear that the old people go through--everybody is out to get them in one way or another (is how they see it). If they watch TV all day; it reinforces that idea. There is a lot of "fear mongering" on TV.

Until 2 years ago my only "wifi" was a 4g hotspot--because I worked all the time and only came home to sleep. Then I needed more capabilities because I retired and started doing heavy duty photo editing and uploading, and got "real" Verizon wifi, and now my life is quite different.

So, before I had the whole home wifi, I had to have a camera that didn't use wifi. I had the system below (the Uniden Guardian) because we had a guy start checking garage doors at 2 am in my neighborhood.

This records to the SD Card in the monitor, and can take 4 cameras. You can also connect it to Internet, but I don't know for sure if you can see it on a smart phone.

My cameras had excellent night vision. You can have as many as four cameras on it. I think you can hear sound (but don't think you can talk to people). As I recall, the sound was quite good.

With regard to power: 3-4 days running; I would suggest a surge protector with a battery in it (I can't remember who makes these). I had my older PoE cameras on it, and it did ok. Or get a deep discharge battery (not made to charge cars, and not made for high amp things like toaster ovens) and put a inverter on it.

These will last you at least a couple of years and should provide good service.

Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-Guardian-Advanced-Wireless-Surveillance/dp/B0091DR2NK

I have two Hikvision DS-2CD3132. They work very well in Blue Iris. It's PoE, and has alarm/audio ports if you want to add those features.

I also have 5 Hikvision DS-2CD2032F-IW which work great in BI as well. These don't have audio/alarm ports, and are easier for someone to break, or simply change the direction they point. The bullet cameras are best mounted in a place that's hard to reach.

You're welcome.

Oh, Power over Ethernet (PoE)? Well, I'm just learning about it myself actually. What you need to know is to accomplish PoE, for say, a security camera, you'll need a PoE Switch like this one. The power this switch gets is able to send power through the ethernet cables (cat6 in your case) to the device. So, it basically works like this:
Ac Adaptor plug > A powered PoE switch > Cat6 (now powered) > Poe Device (like a security camera).

Have they been breaking in one particular way? If so, maybe we could help prepare for their preferred way.

I always highly recommend hardening your home. It helps that you are in the second floor, that means they are less likely to target your windows (unless there is access to your windows). So, let's focus on the door. Doors (and their frames) are often quite vulnerable.

If your door doesn't have a deadbolt, get one and use it! A deadbolt is much, much stronger than the lock on the knob, but it doesn't do anything for you if you don't lock the deadbolt. It is slightly less convenient because you have to use a key to lock it when you leave, but the extra security far outweighs the slight inconvenience. Use your deadbolt.

You may be limited in what the landlord allows you to do, but I'd suggest you do some version of the following to reinforce the door. You can get a door reinforcement kit like this or this (I've sometimes seen the prime-line kit for sale at HD or Lowes for more like $25). These will reinforce the weak door frame and make it much harder to kick in the door. If that is too big of a change, maybe you'd be allowed to replace the strike plate with one like this. That would be a good step up from a standard strike plate. If you aren't allowed to do any of those, at a minimum you should replace the short screws that your strike plate and hinges likely have now, with longer screws (3-4 inch screws are good). The longer screws will anchor the strike plate not only to the weak door frame, but to the strong 2x4 structure behind the frame too. Also a few of those long screws on the hinge side of the door; stock hinge screws are often too short for good security too.

Reinforcing the door will make it much harder to kick in, so they will probably move on to a softer target. It would also take longer and make more noise, giving you more time to call for help, arm yourself, or escape.

If their preferred method is not to kick in the door, but to attack the lock (using a bump key or lock picks), I'd suggest switching to a high security lock like a medeco or assa/abloy. If you can't afford that, then a lock that uses a non-standard key would at least help some. Kwikset KW1 and Schlage SC1 are the most common keys, so those would be the most common bump keys carried by thieves. Getting a lock that doesn't use either of those would at least make them less likely to have the proper key handy.

What I wrote above can help keep people out; that is most important in my opinion. After that, some sort of alarm may make an intruder want to leave more quickly, or also give you extra warning.

Edit: I just wanted to add that many companies use the KW1 and SC1 keys, not just kwikset and schlage. So if you want a less common key, you have to do your due diligence to know what key it uses. For example, I think Baldwin uses either a KW1 or SC1; also, i think Defiant uses a KW1. And definitely avoid anything that uses Kwikset's "Smart Key". The Smart Key locks are just weak junk.

I know you said you already looked into driveway alarms, but would something like this work:
https://smile.amazon.com/1byone-Wireless-Security-Driveway-Weatherproof/dp/B00RCSU7OW/

It would use PIR motion detection to identify presence in the garage. The sensor is battery powered, but the range seems like it would easily reach your facilities. Looks like it has 36 selectable tones, or a flashing LED option, if you don't want to interrupt your... uh... business.

• Hikvision IP Camera with local storage
  
• TP-Link MR3020 Portable 3G/4G Wireless N Router
  
• Verizon USB 4G modem
  
  Hikvision DS-2CD2032F-I
  
  
• Supports up to 64GB micro sdhc
  
• Uses POE or 12V power lead.
  
  So just plug ethernet cable into Mifi router and login to web page of cam via local Wifi or remotely over 4G
  
  The Hikvisons that end in 'F' have onboard storage slot.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Hikvision-DS-2CD2032F-I-Replace-DS-2CD2032-I-Multi-language/dp/B00YJ2QICO?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
  
  While this camera works great with a Hikvision NVR it can also work great all by itself. It was a built in web page, local storage up to 64GB, can use NAS as storage, can send emails, etc.

\>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMJ0Y2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HcOFDb0B03FDZ

Thanks. That looks promising though a bit pricier then I was hoping for. Do you recall the exact search criteria you used on Amazon? Google spit out quite a bit when I searched for Wireless Burglar Alarm Security System.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Wireless+Burglar+Alarm+Security+System&ia=web

Thank you! I'm looking into it.

I'm also looking at this Fortress Security Store system

If you know anything about that, any information would be great!

Hi there,
Very sorry to hear about your situation. Neighbours from hell are quite common, I have 1 on my street as well!

The difficulty you will have with any CCTV camera at night is available light. Most CCTV cameras have InfraRed LEDs built-in to overcome this issue, but they wont work through a window because the IR light will just be reflected off the glass thus ruining the image. So you would have to put the camera outside really if you want to get clear images/videos. Also it is very difficult to get face shots at night unless you have lots of light flooding the street. Cheaper cameras especially will struggle at night. The built-in IR of most cameras are weak and are of limited use in open areas. So artificial IR illumination is often required in the form of an external IR illuminator.

As a one-off solution, you could use:

• an analog camera like this with onboard IR with variable focal length (allows you to zoom and hopefully get a face shot)
  
  
• connected to a video recorder like this
  
  
• with a matching hard drive, unless you can use the Hard disk you already have
  
  
• power adaptor for the camera
  
  
• necessary cables
  
  But I would rather use an IP camera. What I really like about IP cameras are that they are all-in-one devices - they have a built-in video recording system, and can send emails! Take for example the Hikvision cameras with built-in SD card slots. Other than a power source and internet connection, they do not need any other supporting hardware.
  
  I have my Hikvision DS-2CD2132F-IWS set up to send me motion detection email alerts, and record motion-triggered video clips to the 32GB SD card in it (good for 2 weeks). Mine doesn't have varifocal lens though, so I would suggest the Hikvision DS-2CD-2732F-IS which is varifocal.
  
  In any case, consider an external IR illuminator like this one.
  Cheers
  
  Daniel

I am doing research myself right now trying to figure out what will work best for a ~7 camera setup at my home. Here is what I have come across so far, hope it helps;

Most likely to buy;

TRENDnet

Microseven

HUACAM

Dahua

Dahua 2

Also considering;

Foscam

Foscam 2

Hikvision

I use this switch:

Linksys 16-Port Business Desktop Gigabit PoE+ Switch (LGS116P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GECC11O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4avHybKEXXE7S

And have 9 POE cameras. The above switch only has 8 POE ports so either a full 16 port POE switch or adding some of these would work:

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Injector Adapter (TL-PoE150S) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tcvHybQM8F5XQ

I use those injectors too and they work great.

Don't have a recommendation for a pre-built server bc I built my own to spec. Disk space, Memory, and a good CPU will do for this type of set up.

Maybe something like this? There are a ton of different companies I can find on amazon that sell alarm kits like this SABRE Home Expandable Wireless Burglar Alarm Security System - Includes Motion Door and Window Sensors LCD Touch Screen Display and Remote Control Key FOB - DIY EASY Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMJ0Y2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HcOFDb0B03FDZ

Uniden G755 is what I have, works pretty well. Plug and play. around $250 though.

You might as well get a decent gigabit ethernet switch. Netgear makes a really nice managed POE switch for $150.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS110TP-Gigabit-GS110TP-200NAS/dp/B00LW9A328

Pretty much any cat6 cable will do. If you have an rj45 crimping tool you can cut the cables to the exact length that you require and terminate the ends. Otherwise just buy preterminated cables.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Patch/dp/B007NZHQDY

Thanks! I actually didn't see your response and ended up buying this and plan on sending it to an old macbook running ubuntu.

I'll definitely see if I can make an inconspicuous weatherproof housing for it and maybe look into buying that IR lamp. Either that or I'll just buy a giant flood light for my front porch.

Get a Foscam. it records to the sd card, so you don't need a stand alone computer or dvr.

Also, get a driveway motion detector so you know when they are coming.. now you can close the garage on them and also get video evidence.

But the real problem is the father that needs to have some respect and change his ways. But perhaps they are not stealing it when you think they are,.. you're kid could have left the bike out front. That's why it's good to have a record of motion activated events.

Honestly you could spend just a little more and get a gigabit switch.

NETGEAR ProSAFE GS110TP 8-Port PoE Gigabit Smart Managed Switch with 2 Gigabit SFP Ports 53w (GS110TP-200NAS)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LW9A328/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gBj-ybGBQ50M6

I think with six cameras you are pushing the limits of 10/100.

Hi there security professional here. If you are looking for a dvr with a camera it will be hard to find quality in your price range without having a supplier or going to a big box store. But luckily over the last few years a number of companies have made stand alone IP cameras. With these units you can store footage on the camera(micro SSD) or on a cloud service. On top of this there app you can view the camera from your phone without having to register a dvr with a monitoring site. A brand id recommend is HIKvision. As a previous poster mentioned flir, these are really nice units as I have one my self. They cost significantly more but have more features.

http://www.amazon.com/Hikvision-DS-2CD3132-2-8mm-Camera-1080P/dp/B00UJFHTO6/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1452437631&sr=1-1&keywords=DS-2CD2122FWD-IS

*Note: know your local laws regarding saving video/audio. Some places require a posted sign.

I bought mine here. At the time the two pack was a little cheaper. I'm sure they're available elsewhere, but this was the easiest.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000W3UH4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1505582935&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rab%2Bmotion%2Bsensor%2Blight&dpPl=1&dpID=41Fz9FBpMZL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Thanks for the response. It did lead me to a cheap version on Amazon. Beam is the word I was looking for. I thought it would have some technical name. Thanks again.

Alarm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYXEWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lxlpxb6WRPBS8

Nobody's mentioned this but the IR LEDs of the camera do not seem to be aimed at the center point of the image as I would have expected it to be. This is how most cameras are designed to work. It almost looks as if the IR light is coming from another source and not the camera that created the image. What camera is it, out of interest?

If pointing the camera more to the right is not an option due to losing the coverage you want, go with additional IR lights such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/Univivi-U06R-WideAngle-Lights-Illuminator/dp/B00M3O5ERK/

VueVille.com

You can buy the worlds greatest door lock and it won’t stop someone from simply kicking in your door. Exterior doors are quite weak where the lockset goes through the door jamb. You need to buy a door jamb reinforcement plate kit like this one.


Prime-Line U 11026 Jamb Repair and Reinforcement Kit, 59-1/2" - Reinforce and Repair Door Jamb - Add Extra Security to Your Home to Help Prevent Forced Entry - Steel, Paintable White Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB29LZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TsyTDbCS5YM9H

https://www.amazon.com/1byone-Wireless-Security-Driveway-Weatherproof/dp/B00RCSU7OW

Consider using this. It's a motion sensor alarm and it only activates when someone walks by. I installed it at my moms house and it works great. No fussing. Now we know when anybody walks up the path to the front door.

I installed it nine months ago and battery for the sensor is still good. I mounted it under the eaves of the house so it doesn't get direct rain. For less than $20 it's a deal.

I had an older version of this one which was decent. Just don't connect the horn and change a few settings and it's a silent alarm like you want. Looks like the also have an internet cam, which could be good stuff for determining if it's really a wander off or someone forgot to turn it off when you came back home type false alarm.

I have a bunch of Amcrest cameras. I honestly have zero familiarity with the protocols/standrds you are referencing.

I have 3 different types of POE Injectors that I use on my network, for various reasons.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRO4M73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GECC11O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PS9E5I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They all work with no issues.

Much appreciated. Not sure why my searches weren't turning anything up but this helped a lot. Going with this one!

If you have sliding doors that can be lifted off the tracks, you can get something like these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM8DV24/

I attached motion sensor solar lights to my gutters above each window like these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012ZDE54G

You can always plant thorny plants at each window to. I don't know your house/condo/townhome/apt or what you have or the layout, so not totally sure what I can recommend. I live in a really nice neighborhood where a lot of baseball players, football players and a bunch of wrestlers live. Some people robbed every house in our cul-de-sac except mine one year. I put up a camera looking over my driveway because cars have been broken into. Nobody has broken into any of my cars, but I keep them locked, unlike a lot of my neighbors and I think the camera is a kinda deterrent on the outside. I doubt the camera could make out the face good enough to actually catch a person that robbed me though if it was at night.

Recently wanted exactly what you are looking for, and ended up getting 3 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE11S6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They plug in to USB. You can have one USB hub with all cameras plugged into it. If you need a longer cable you can get a "USB repeater" for cheap. Then, download "ContaCam" free. It comes set default to record upon motion detection, and also gives you a daily summery. Then to view remotely i use "Jump Desktop" for $15 on iTunes. Sounds crazy but for under $150 i have 3 cameras i can view on my smartphone, and the insides of my house are not hosted on a server in china.

https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Beam-Invisible-Infrared-Alert/dp/B000BYXEWQ

I personally think it's too much money.

My reasoning for going the Foscam route is that they are cheap, they work somewhat reliably, and they look mean to people that see them.

I see cameras as a deterrent, and not as a true security device. I have sensors and a really loud siren for security. I'm hoping the camera deters the bad guys so I don't get to the siren part. And last night proved my case.

Here is a link to the cameras that are equivalent to the ones I have (mine are out of production I think):

http://www.amazon.com/Foscam-FI9804P-Outdoor-Wireless-Camera/dp/B00GYBIU7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1456888819&sr=8-4&keywords=foscam+FI8905W

All you need is this. Two motion detectors and a central alarm unit. That is screaming loud. Just put the detectors near the door and a window. Instant get outta here.

Edit: now I see. I'm recommending the jr. jr. version of what you have. Unless you have pets toddling around while you sleep, ANY motion detector that triggers an alarm will (1) alert you, (2) scare the intruder, and (3) make them think that a neighbor can hear it as well. Moreover many of these units can call someone over a landline and the intruder would presume that the call was made. This - and if you really want Star Trek phaser security, a cheap shotgun - is all you need.

get a door hardening kit. You want one that will replace the hinge screws with atleast 3in long screws, a metal bracket to wrap around the door where your locks are to prevent splitting, and a long metal bar on the frame of the door with long screws. Here's what i put on my doors:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_dNu5xbKJXZD15

You can also replace all your locks with higher security locks, don't get electronic locks as they have a bad history. If you want to make things a big pain in the ass for an intruder replace deadbolts with double cylinder deadbolts. That forces anyone who breaks in to go out the same way they came in as they cant unlock your doors. Came in a window? They're going back out the window.

Edit: there is also this, which looks pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_PZu5xb0DVAH4F

But really, a properly hardened door will be very hard to kick in and will give you plenty of time to react.

I just moved into a new house and this is what I did first week:

All new Shlage deadbolts which I will eventually install medeco or abloy cylinders in.
Door armor at the door jamb and hinges.
Armor latch on the sliding glass doors.
DSC Alexor alarm with contacts on all doors.

Next week:
Recessed alarm contacts on all windows and some motion sensors.
Security window film on sliding glass doors and vulnerable windows.

All in all it will set me back about a grand but it will make the house a huge pain in the ass to get into.