(Part 3) Top products from r/mechanics

Moisturize your hands before work, wear GOOD gloves at work (Raven Nitrile gloves or equivalent), and clean up with Dawn. I would also keep a bottle of Cherry Bomb or equivalent pumice based hand cleaner in your locker, toolbox, etc. at work for more immediate cleanup after those especially greasy projects.

I highly recommend NOT going cheap on the gloves and staying away from latex when working with oils, solvents and industrial cleaners, because they simply won't last and you will end up needing to scrub your hands almost as much as if you weren't wearing gloves in the first place, and will end up going through more gloves anyway, so in the long run, spending a few more dollars per box on Ravens or equivalent heavy-mil nitrile gloves is more than worth it. You can also get a pretty good deal by buying gloves by the case vs. the box, especially if you have a Prime account.

Just my two cents.

You should be fine with a Harbor Freight tool box. To be honest you can also buy tools and other things from there as well with out much worry. Just don't buy anything from them that will get heavy use under stress. Small tools like screw drivers, allen/hex keys, and grip tools like pliers aren't too bad from them. Just remember that they do deal in cheap tools so don't be surprised when some of them break. The below tools are suggestions and the links are examples for reference only.

• gerber multitool Comes in handy more times than I can count.
  
• ratchet wrenches Great for tight spaces where a ratchet doesn't fit.
  
• mechanical fingers tool Drop something and can't get to it?
  
• flex magnet tool Drop something and can't get to it or see it?
  
• mirror tool Need to see the back of the engine from a different angle?
  
• rechargeable worklight
  
• multimeter For electrical testing purposes
  
• wire crimper For cutting/stipping/crimping connectors onto wires
  
• magnetic tray For holding nuts and bolts or anything metal you don't want to lose.
  
• air compressor For air tools and don't forget to get an air hose attachment.
  
• impact gun Air tool, great for taking nuts/bolts off quick such as wheel lug nuts.
  
• impact sockets For the impact gun.

Ahh, heating issues, sometimes very easy, sometimes the most difficult thing to do on a car.
There are many things that can cause your heater to not work.

Firstly, most heater issues are caused by low coolant or trapped air in the system so fill it to the rim and burp it. If its low, its going somewhere, so find it.

Next, its often the heater valve, the mixers, wiring or vac lines. (I doubt your car has vacuum controlled conditioning system though)

But, if you have narrowed it down to the core its self, first thing to do is to try to blow it out by bringing your engine to redline a few times on the highway. (First thing to do for most issues on a car, "A redline a day keeps the mechanic away") If that doesn't change anything, then its time for a flush. Set the car heat to high, unhook the core inlet and outlet hoses on the engine, then flush and backflush it a few times with a garden hose. If you have low flow, you can pour CLR in the hoses and let it sit for a few hours then flush it again.

If it hasn't had one recently, now is definitely a good time for a full coolant flush too.

Helpful tools I would recommend for the job:

Airlift ~$80 (Very helpful for burping a system)

Coolant System Pressure Tester ~$150 (Helpful for finding leaks and testing the cap)

Refractometer ~$50 (A very helpful tool, especially if you live in a cold climate. It measures the freezing point of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and measures battery acid state)

As far as recycling the coolant, in some counties you can pour it down the drain when properly diluted, but most of the time you have to bring it in to a recycling center.

Good luck! If you have any further questions, ill be around.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

This is your friend on vehicles with rust. There's a few variants of this, but this is on the the better more available ones, that isn't stupid expensive

I have this set:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1ZZVY

I use the 32mm pretty often, but only on my wheel bearing kit. 24mm and 23mm are pretty common, but I don't think that I've used the 30mm.

Headliner material is very thin so any heavy adhesive will bleed through. THought I heard of one available at craft stores that is very good and does not bleed through fabric.

Maybe something specific for it like: http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM

I'm partial to Bosch impact driver bits, I work as a mechanic too, and it's not exactly what you're asking about, but this little kit gets so much use in my day-to-day it's not even funny. There's room in the case for a little 1/4 impact universal joint and a 1/4 hex to square adapter. Perfect for an 18v impact.

Sunex makes a nice little bit set that comes with a driver and extension in a slick little case. usually find them on the truck or...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XW4C8Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478742544&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sunex+bit+set

That.

Edit: Autocorrect!

I got a 02 ss. I removed the dog bone mounts in front of the engine. Put it in neutral used this tool http://www.amazon.com/Thexton-419X-Engine-Moving-Tool/dp/B000IHNZPC. Much easier.

[That stuff just so happens to be on sale (-$3) at Amazon right now for $11.99 shipped w Prime. FYI.](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_ZsvvDbQ3DB4W9 via @amazon)

I doubt 190 ft pounds of torque will take out 10 year old suspension bolts. Your better of spending the extra 100 in the DeWalt

Plus buy spending a few more bucks on an accessory

>Eligible Qualifying Purchase for DEWALT's Power Tool Accessory Promotion. When you purchase this DEWALT power tool, you can receive an extra 20% off select DEWALT power tool accessories when both products are shipped and sold by Amazon.com. Discount applied at checkout. Learn more

That saves you 30 bucks

Just use an Easy out

They make magnetic ones you can just stick on your oil pan and plug it in. https://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549848405&sr=8-2&keywords=magnet+block+heater

A universal in this context would mean a universal joint, and free spinning would be having it on the end of the gun and just pulling the trigger without the socket being on a bolt. The u joint will bend to one side, unbalancing the rotating mass and cause the thing to shake itself loose off the end of the gun. This guy is saying that only a stupid mechanic would do that, and in that case using a pin detent would help prevent the socket from flying off like it could with a hog ring detent.


Here's a pic of a socket set with integrated universal joints. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Joint-Socket-Set-SAE/dp/B00370VACW

Almost certainly an aftermarket car alarm shock sensor.

Similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-504D-Double-Stinger/dp/B0009SXOTC

The trim pots are there to adjust sensitivity.