(Part 4) Top products from r/puppy101

Many people think that because corgis are bossy and stubborn they need to be forceful with training - which isn't the case. Corgis are actually (generally) pretty sensitive dogs despite their bossiness, so using these old fashioned dominance methods are just hurting your relationship with your dog.

He is 4 months old - he has been ALIVE 4 months! You need to be patient and consistent with him. You are not going to be able to expect him to have a perfect recall, bite inhibition, play and bathroom habits at this age - it is like expecting a 3 year old to act like a 18 year old - they do not have the mental capacity, the focus or the skill to be more than what they are - a baby.

Get into a puppy kindergarten class at a local club that specializes in positive reinforcement. Kindergarten will help your puppy with socialization (which will help with basic manners, bite inhibition and will be CRITICAL to their success as an adult dog). YOU are going to do most of the learning in kindergarten and learn how to teach basic commands effectively, possibly get an introduction to clicker training and have the opportunity to ask questions and get answers with seasoned trainers.

>He settled down a little then got up and proceeded to pee on my arm, then tried to pee on my legs as well.

This is hardly surprising. He is a baby, he has ZERO bladder control. Puppies of that age have about 30 to 90 minutes worth of 'hold it' time (depending on the individual, how much water they have been drinking, etc) while they are awake and active. He should not have the option to go lay down with you - no one would be able to watch him. He should really be in the same room with one person's eye balls on him at all times. If you want to let him wander, your fiance needs to be following him. It is not to be mean or controlling, but you just cant trust a puppy that young not to pee because they need to - they don't really have the concept of 'outside' or 'holding it' yet.

>He DOES know how to ask to go out btw, sometimes he just doesn't and ignores you if you ask him if he wants to go out (which he knows what that means).

At 4 months old? No, he probably doesn't really know. He may sort of understand that when he does certain things he can go outside, but he is not reliable enough to communicate that/figure out how to ask under ALL situations. Our corgi was fantastic with house training at 5 months - unless he was in a room he was not used to or could not get to the back door to 'ask' because a door or other obstacle was in his way. It was not a reflection of him being 'bad' - he just had been in those situations so rarely that he did not know HOW to ask in those situations (which could be very similar to your dilemma). Your corgi should be on a consistent schedule - dont ASK him if he wants to go out, TAKE him out! Every 45-90 minutes when active (depends on his track record and what he is doing) and 15-30minutes after eating or drinking. If you notice him start to loose interest in an activity, that is your cue to get him outside (again, don't ask, just take him out). At around 5 - 6 months your pup is going to have more reliable bladder control and you can start to explore more freedoms as he proves he can handle it (teaching him to use bells or offer a cue to go out instead of taking him out systematically, slowly allowing him to have the room you are in +1 to explore while still being supervises, etc). Some people CAN get away with more freedoms earlier, but if your pup is still having accidents that is proof you are not there yet (and need to adjust accordingly)


Look into these resources for help with potty training and behavior - there simply is too much to cover in one reply:

• Kikiopup - What NOT to do to your dog when training your dog
  
  
• Dog training wiki - Jumping Up
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)
  
  Corgis are herders - they are very VERY mouthy until they get past teething (and can still be nippy if you are not consistent). Their bladders are tiny and untrustworthy at this age - keep them off uncleanable surfaces and make sure your eyeballs are on the puppy at all times until their bladder is more trustworthy. THOROUGHLY treat and wash the bedding with plenty of Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer (wash on sanitize setting after letting the bedding sit with the cleaner for several hours).
  
  /r/corgi frustrates me - so many people still advocate for dominance training there which has been seriously discounted in the dog training community. Yes, corgis are stubborn and are difficult to train - but you do not need to be mean or forceful or 'alpha'. Your dog is not trying to dominate you - they are a baby. They are not trying to be 'alpha' any more than an infant is trying to control the house.
  
  Be sure you are TEACHING your dog what you WANT them to do instead and you are treating the cause, not just the symptoms of behaviors. With potty training it is ALL about management and consistency - every accident is a set back and is YOUR fault for not watching him/controlling his environment better.
  
  If you cannot get to a puppy kindergarten class (which are usually around $50 for a 4-6 week class), do a TON of research on our wiki, kikopup videos, the digital dog training textbook and the books I listed above. Consider clicker training (but that will not really help they physical bladder control issue at this age) and Nothing in Life is Free to compliment your positive reinforcement training plan. Your puppy is also going to still need a ton of socialization with dogs, people and other animals.
  
  Positive reinforcement isn't about always sugar coating everything - you can still have strict rules and a well trained dog by using positive methods. The key to remember is treating the cause, not just the symptom and always looking to TEACH your dog, not control or intimidate. Corgis are fantastic dogs - they want to be with you all the time and they can be extremely obedient if you gain their trust and work with them correctly. Being heavy handed or using 'dominance' methods (like holding a dog on their back - that is terrifying to many dogs!) can seriously damage your relationship if you are not careful.
  
  Consistency and patience are the keys to success - look to capture the desired behaviors your corgi offers naturally, encourage new positive behaviors and redirect behaviors you do not want. If there is something your puppy does not KNOW (which is pretty much everything at this age) or cannot physically HELP (such as holding their bladder) you CANNOT punish them - it is not helpful, adds a lot of frustration and confusion to the relationship and does not teach them what they SHOULD be doing (because they don't know what that is or cannot physically do it.)

Oh man, it's gonna be a wild ride for you. I spent over a year researching dogs before I got my pup and it's still been tough. I'm not here to lecture though, since I'm sure you've already heard enough of it by now, so will do my best to offer some advice.

​

1. Check out Simpawtico's videos on how to train your new pup. He's super informative and explains things in a simplistic, easy to understand way.
   
2. Crate train your pup. It will save your sanity and also be good for pup. Here's a sample schedule. Also, this website offers a step by step instruction.
   
3. As for food, I personally think you should put the effort in to research this yourself. I think choosing a diet and food for your dog is a very personal thing as it needs to consider your own budget and values. This website breaks down a lot of dog food brands. Some ppl appreciate it and some ppl don't think it's reliable. You decide. I can tell you which one I bought if you dm me.
   
4. Here's some very informative resources you can read up on. It'll help with before you get your puppy, after getting your puppy, house training, etc.
   
5. Puppy Blues are a thing and it's okay to have it. You can find other ppl's stories on reddit & they're comforting bc at least you know you aren't alone.
   
6. Have treats ready.
   
   ​
   
   Some things to expect the first week:
   
   -WHINING. They will whine. Ignore them if you've already taken them out to potty and fed them. If you give in, then you will teach them that whining gets them attention. Can't hold it against them though. They're scared and in a completely new place away from their mom and litter.
   
   - They may not eat that much the first few days. My vet said this is normal since they are still adjusting to their new environment.
   
   - Take the pup for a vet exam. Don't just trust the word of whoever/wherever you got them from.
   
   - They potty all the time lol...pls still take your new pup out at night. Mine was 8 weeks old when I got her and I took her out every two hours in the middle of the night. I still do every 2.5 hrs because she's only 10 weeks old now. Goodbye to an uninterrupted 8 hour nights rest. You can slowly extend the time as they get older.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   Some essentials I bought:
   
   

1. Poop bags I didn't think I needed this many, but boy oh boy, I do.
   
   
2. Crate
   
   
3. Play Pen For when you can't supervise as closely. I also like it bc it teaches them that they can't always have access to you
   
   
4. Puppy Shampoo They'll probably get dirty soon lol. Or maybe they smell when you picked them up.
   
   
5. Dog tag Way cheaper than petco's and is okay quality
   
   I'd recommend shopping at TJMaxx for dog toys. It's wayyy cheaper than anywhere else I've found.
   
   ​
   
   Overall, just keep working with your pup and be consistent with them. Consistent with your expectations, routine, training, etc and it'll get better slowly. I know I've only had my pup for 2 weeks so maybe I'm not the most credible person based on experience, but I've definitely put a lot of effort into learning as much as I could before I got her. Hopefully some of this is of some help.
   
   Good luck!
   
   ​

> Is it better to train the puppy to use the bathroom outside or inside on the pee pee pads?

Outside of course, no one likes the smell. Check out House-training Your Puppy from the ASPCA.

> What are the best types of foods to buy a puppy? I've been reading up that a lot of brand name dog foods contain fillers and certain foods that any dog should not be generally eating as it messes up their digestion

A lot of the information about dog food on the internet is total garbage. There are so many websites full of information that "sounds right" but is just a bunch of mumbo jumbo that Sally McNaturalFood conjured up because "chemicals are bad" or "I don't understand nutrition" or "my anecdotal observation caused a placebo effect".

Check out the following links for help on choosing a dog food. These are all from expert sources. People that have been thoroughly educated (not brainwashed as the internet would have you believe) on nutrition for our pets. Hint: most websites that warn of dog food "fillers" tend to not be very good sources of factual information.

The World Small Animal Veterinary Association

• The Savvy Dog Owner’s Guide: Nutrition on the Internet
  
• Recommendations on Selecting Pet Foods
  
  Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University
  
  
• FAQ's on Pet Nutrition
  
  The Bark Magazine article written by a nutritionist (MSc)
  
  
• Dog Food Logic (I HIGHLY recommend reading the full book)
  
  > Is it better to train using treats as positive reinforcement or is there something better?
  
  Use your dog's kibble as a treat when you can. That way you don't have to adjust their daily intake. Use meal times as training opportunities rather than feeding out of a bowl.
  
  One of the BEST things you can do for yourself is read a puppy book. Even if you've owned a dog before, I can almost guarantee you will learn something new and it will make your time with your pup much easier for the both of you.
  
  Recommended Books:
  
  
• BEFORE & AFTER Getting Your Puppy by Dr Ian Dunbar (free on his website w/ registration)
  
• The Puppy Primer by Patricia McConnell, PhD
  
• Perfect Puppy in 7 Days by Dr Sophia Yin

I use this with my standard poodles (it's not spill PROOF, but what does spill is super duper minimal) after I figured out that it also had the added benefit of being a small enough drinking area that it didn't allow their ears to get sopping wet. It also has the benefit of holding a pretty significant amount of water, and the actual water available in the spill-resistant cup is shallow, so it helps discourage large gulping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006BB78W/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0006BB78W&linkCode=as2&tag=vyndree01-20&linkId=MHCAOBLEWYC2T4NM

I also have camel-dogs who will chug a water bowl until empty. These are the only things that seemed to help. It gets better when they realize that water isn't a limited resource, and makes you wonder what caused it.

In my case, my one camel-drinker dog who treated water like a precious thing to be hoarded taught all of my other dogs her behavior. >.< I now have dogs who have never met camel-drinker dog but still exhibit overexcited behavior at the water bowl learned from my older dogs. I find that super interesting that dogs teach each other behavior that doesn't even come from their own experience.

My pup will get into biting "moods" where the "ouch!" method just eggs her on. In that case, having a room (like a bathroom that you have previously cleaned out of mats and things on the counter) to close her in for 30-60 seconds might be useful so she can't just follow you and nip your ankles.

I have this toy that my pup loves and it keeps your hands away from their mouth, gives them something else to bite.

Is she loosing teeth? Might be teething. Have you tried giving her frozen carrots or other frozen toys to help with the pain?

Oh! And the "gentle" command! We just learned it from our trainer which is super helpful for our little landshark. To train it, you put a high value treat inside a closed fist and present. My pup immediately tried to put my entire fist in her mouth haha. Just keep waiting. At the first semblance of a lick, open your hand immediately and praise. Repeat, waiting for more and more licking. Eventually, your pup will learn that "gentle" means "stop biting and lick or nose my hand instead". This has been a godsend because my girl can take her excitement over treats out on my hands and now I can just remind her "Gentle" and she actually does stop.

So first thing is first - any adversive methods such as a vibrating collar with a dog that has fear or anxiety is only going to backfire and promote more fear or anxiety. I would ditch that. You're potentially causing more behavior issues when it's used. Dog learns to hide fear rather than teaching the dog confidence.


So you have a dog that is likely reactive and fearful - and a lot of anxiety. So before we can get to work mode, we need to address the causes of the anxiety and get the dog back to neutral. So first thing, you might want to try doing a two week shut down with this dog. https://www.marshmallowfoundation.org/info/file?file=20866.pdf This is to remove all the stimuli that can keep causing stress levels to be high. Adrenaline - when it spikes up during a moment of fear or panic can take over 6 days for the hormone levels to return to normal. It's great that the dog is food motivated because that is going to make things like counter conditioning to specific things much easier... but right now - stress is so high, your dog cannot focus let alone retain the cues you're training. Dog is in fight or flight mode... So give the two week shut down an effort.


Meanwhile, you want to write down all the things this dog is reacting to... if it's potentially separation anxiety, check the links I provided below. Anything else, you're going to want to work on each thing separately using desensitization and counter conditioning. Again, we're trying to bring the fearful dog to a neutral place... work on building confidence and associating the list of stimuli with positive rewards. Any negative behaviors - redirect.... either remove the stimuli or remove the dog. Reinforce calm relaxed behaviors.


https://www.reddit.com/r/dogs/comments/48sglg/discussion_separation_anxiety/ has some great info that you may find useful.

Do take a glance over at /r/reactivedogs They have lots of helpful advice on how to manage some of these behaviors.


Some books that may help:
The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell

I’ll be Home soon by Patricia McConnell

Don’t Leave Me by Nicole Wilde


If after that two week shut down and working a bit you still feel a bit overwhelmed, it might be a good consideration to work with a certified animal behaviorist. https://avsab.org/resources/speakers-bureau/behavior-consultants-near-you/ and https://iaabc.org/consultants are great searches for one.

> I've been letting her bite my hand for the time being only because I want her to avoid breaking teeth since she likes to bite chairs, the bed, shoes, etc. When she is a little bit older I want to teach her that she shouldn't be biting on everything like that.

Honestly, you should start now. Puppies usually start learning bite inhibition and it is so hard (sometimes impossible) when they're older to teach it. I got my puppy at 16 weeks, she was abandoned with her litter either by a stray or a neglectful owner and the group that took care of them kept them together as long as possible in order to make sure they were adjusted with bite inhibition - with training, even through teething, our puppy hasn't nipped to cause any real pain in the two months we've had her.

Your puppy will be big and powerful. If she bites someone, she can be put down or you can get sued, so it is absolutely important you work on this and train it out of her as soon as you can and continue one it through her entire puppy stage.

Make sure you're feeding her puppy formula for the next few weeks and do doubletime in socializing your puppy with other dogs. I don't know where you live, but try to see if there is a puppy-specific socializing group. Make sure she has at least 1-2 rounds of shots, but because you got a puppy so young it is absolutely vital that you socialize her with other young dogs. This should be your #1 life priority in the next few weeks, but please make sure she has at least one round of shots.

>I have been cleaning her area every day, normally multiple times a day, with alcohol to avoid using any sprays. I have some Febreze spray here that I haven't used yet, but I do see that the can says to keep away from children and pets.

Yes, don't use Febreeze. Get something like this. What this does is more important than covering up the smell, it stops it from smelling like pee and poop to your puppy so your puppy doesn't smell it and go, "this is where I normally pee". Ask the pet store if they carry it.

> I believe I'm going to have to wait probably until she is 2 or 3 months for those social classes.

2 months is precisely when you should be starting. Make sure she has at least one round of her shots. In the meantime, here is a guide on how you can socialize your puppy. An unsocialized puppy can attack other dogs, attack other people, bite children, bark a lot, have anxiety, and the list goes on and on so this is literally one of the most important things you can be doing.

> Could she possibly meet my girlfriend and/or a friend once in a while as long as they sterilize their hands to avoid getting her sick?

Yes, she should meet people. There are very few diseases that transfer from human to dog so people should be okay. If anything, you should introduce your dog to as many different types of people as possible to aid her socialization. My dog still is wary of people who are in costumes and big hats or masks because she wasn't socialized to them early enough.

She's really cute. Huskies tend to be. They are really, tough though, but even in the city, I've seen it work with A LOT of exercise daily. If you're committed to it, I'd suggest you check out /r/dogs and /r/dogtraining, go to the Search box, and type in "husky" and "husky puppy" to see what kind of issues you may find along the way and how people were able to fix it, so you won't be overwhelmed when your puppy grows up and starts having seemingly unmanageable behaviors.

There's always a way forward.
First off, good on you for taking in the dog. Many people would not be so charitable.

>She pees and poops anywhere and everywhere, even where she sleeps.

Like, literally exactly where she sleeps? Given a choice, she'll choose to curl up in her own excrement? If that's the case, then traditional methods like crate training will not work, because they assume the dog will not soil where it sleeps, given a choice.

The way I see it, this is a problem that needs to be attacked from multiple angles simultaneously.

Angle 0: Have you had her to the vet yet? If so, did you mention her potty training problems? Sometimes severe potty issues can be caused by medical problems like UTIs. Fixing underlying medical problems first will be a huge sanity saver for you. If a vet hasn't cleared her of medical causes yet, make that a priority asap.

Angle 1: Take her outside and keep her outside until she goes. It might take hours of waiting the first couple of times you try it. It can help to wander around near where other dogs pee and poop, because the smells will encourage her. It will also help to do it when you know she has to go. Generally ignore her and let her sniff around slowly--too much attention on her will give her stage fright. Bring a book if you think you'll be too bored. When she finally goes, gently praise her and give her a really stinky, soft, delicious treat when she finishes. Do this at least three times every day. That will mean spending most of your free time outdoors at first, but the first couple of days will be the hardest. She'll get faster and faster as she starts to understand.

Angle 2: is to try to gradually re-teach her to discriminate her sleeping area from a bathroom area. You could start by leaving her in a pen like this when she's alone, with only a bed and a potty area, so she has a clear choice. Commercial potty pads will be easiest to start with because they are treated with pheromones to attract puppies to pee there. If you want to use the bathroom or kitchen instead of a pen, then give her a bed in one corner and cover the rest of the floor with puppy pads, so she only has two options: Pee on the bed, or pee in the potty area. When you see improvement, you can start making the potty area smaller and farther from her bed. (I pulled that image from this kikopup blog post: http://clicktreat.blogspot.se/2009/06/making-escape-proof-x-pen.html)

Angle 3: is cleaning up all the trace smells. If you haven't found Nature's Miracle yet, try that out on your carpets. Wash her bedding (and yours) in hot water with detergent and baking soda. Anything that can't be washed hot or drenched in nature's miracle gets trashed.

Angle 4: is reducing the separation anxiety. There are some suggestions here: http://dogmantics.com/2013/08/01/separation-training-tips/ Most notably, confine her while you're home sometimes. If the bathroom is her confinement space while you're gone, then leave her in the bathroom with a baby gate (less claustrophobic than a shut door) and something to chew on sometimes while you're nearby so it is not a traumatic experience. Feed her meals in there. Generally disassociate spending time there from your departure.

Angle 5: is management to prevent the worst of it. For example, she should not have access to your daughter's bed, ever. Not for a single second. If it's a hassle to remember to close doors, then put baby gates in strategic doorways to keep her out of trouble. Or have her live in a roomy pen while she's indoors as a temporary solution. A puppy that is not housetrained absolutely does not get the run of the house. Note that if she's confined more indoors, she'll need extra exercise outdoors to stay sane.

If you do all 6 of these things consistently for two weeks and still don't see improvement, then it's a problem beyond what I've ever seen. I'd recommend consulting with a veterinary behaviorist for help.

I'm in a similar boat (except I've got more advance notice) and have been finding the Digital Dog Training Textbook linked-to in the sidebar to be invaluable. Highly recommend. It's a little oddly laid out and it repeats itself itself but—as it says—you're really training yourself how to train the pup, so the reinforcement works (at least for me).

Their shopping list (oddly-formatted, watch out) includes:

• At least six chewtoys to stuff with kibble and treats (The Kong Company’s Kong and Biscuit Ball, Premier’s Squirrel Dude and Football, and sterilized long bones^† are the best.)
  
• Water bowl (Only buy your pup a food bowl once he is socialized, well-trained, and has impeccable household manners.)
  
• Dog food (dry kibble) During his first weeks at home, make sure your puppy receives all food stuffed in chewtoys, or handfed as rewards for socialization and training.
  
• Freeze-dried liver for men, strangers, and children to win your puppy's confidence and as rewards for housetraining
  
  (All links non-affiliate, just tryna be helpful :)
  
  Also, I saw this recommended somewhere. I have used a similar product for our cats and it's fucking magic, so if you're concerned your pup might be stressed, I highly recommend.
  
  ^† above, /u/caffeinatedlackey recommends against these until older

The number of options and the marketing strategies dog food companies use can be genuinely overwhelming. I completely understand how you're feeling.

Firstly, I would not recommend rotating dog foods. Generally, dogs take a while to adjust to a change in diet and, unless your pup has guts of steel, he will likely not respond well to frequent food swaps. If a food works for your dog, there's no reason to alternate.

Is there a reason you want to switch off Royal Canin? That might help us understand what you're looking for. Honestly, in terms of brands that have the most research behind them, Royal Canin is a great option. Purina is another. If he's not doing well on Royal Canin, it might be worth discussing with your vet, depending on what symptoms he's showing.

Ultimately, it's your choice what you feed your dog. As long as you're choosing a food that is AAFCO certified (it will say somewhere on the bag), and feeding the appropriate daily amount, your dog will likely do fine. It gets a bit trickier when a dog has allergies, or a sensitive stomach, and you can definitely troubleshoot those things through their diet, but it's important to make changes gradually and rule out other causes such as illness or environmental allergies.

If you're a reader, and would like to be better informed about canine nutrition and how to separate science from pseudoscience in terms of dog food, I would really recommend the book Dog Food Logic by Linda Case. The author has her masters in canine nutrition and does an excellent job of presenting a complicated, controversial topic in an easily digestible way. I recommend this book constantly. She breaks down the nutritional needs of your dog, the history of dog food production, dog food "fads", common biases we are susceptible to when shopping for dog food, etc.

So the food aggression is called resource guarding. It is an extremely common issue and with some training can be quite manageable, some dogs guard food, toys, beds or other places, and sometimes people or other dogs.

My favorite book on this subject is Mine! I've used it to train not one but two of my dogs that it's okay for me to remove items or food from them since they'll always get it back or get a better treat in return. The book covers everything from misconceptions to how to train and manage then for extreme cases or preventative, how to properly utilize a muzzle safely and effectively.

So good to hear!

Regarding puppy blues, I would say the first few weeks are hardest. Like break down sobbing hard. For me, puppy blues came in phases, but after the initial accustoming period, puppy blues become easier to deal with. That said, puppy difficulties do come in phases as they reach different stages in their growth, but you are just so much better equipped to deal with them so they don't hit you hard like the initial one.

For chew toys, I don't know where you're based, but you can go to your local dog store (not chain stores, the local specific ones, they may carry a wide variety of chews for you to try. For me it was trial and error. By the end, the trusty old frozen Kong still lasted the longest. Bully sticks are great, but one note - my dog tried to swallow them when they're really long after he was like 4-5 mo. You can try these toys West Paw Zogoflex Qwizl Interactive Treat Dispensing Dog Puzzle Treat Toy for Dogs, 100% Guaranteed Tough, It Floats!, Made in USA, Large, Tangerine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N29SD5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6Kq4AbX5SC6K6, and they make the bully stick much harder to pull out thus harder to swallow whole.

Hey there,

So to echo what other commenters have said on here, I don't think the harness will really be helpful if the main goal is to teach your puppy to not be nippy. I second the whole "redirect their behavior" comment as well as the typical scolding (bad dog, no) but make sure that you have a stern voice and your tone is different than how you would normally talk to your puppy or praise it so that they know that when you're speaking this way you mean business. However, if you would still like to try having a harness for your puppy, this one on Amazon is one that I recommend. It's not super expensive either so if you continue to use a harness as your puppy gets bigger and it eventually out grows it, you'll be able to get it another one at an affordable price.

here is a puzzle I got for my pup! It's very high quality and keeps him busy for a little while and he loves it! That brand has a lot and me and my friendly collectively have like five of their puzzles. They're all pretty strong and have held up to a lot of use over the last year

Definitely speak to management and provide direct quotes. Ask to use the other trainer, or your money back immediately so you can go elsewhere.

Look up kikopup on YouTube for some good positive training videos.

I am also a huge fan of Culture Clash by Jean Donaldaon. If looking for some good info and perspective.

it definitely helped! she was somewhat used to puppy pads from her breeder, but she definitely prefers the grass texture it seems.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX0FMCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the one we use. we rinse it out with water now and again, but we also store it on the patio outside when we're with her. it definitely starts to smell if you don't rinse it out after a few uses. she's 13.5 weeks, so she's getting better with accidents in general, but if it's rainy or shit weather she's perfectly fine going on this.

Oh man. This sounds exactly like Wesley for the first 6 weeks we had him. For the first 6 weeks he was in "venus fly trap" mode.. His mouth would just be open waiting for something to land in his mouth so he could snap his jaws closed. I literally cried I was so frustrated with him. What worked for us was finding things he actually liked to redirect him to. He hated kongs and nylabones. He's warmed up to kongs now, but thats because his lunch is frozen into a kong and given to him when we leave him for the day. What he did like was one particular toy that was like a very long stuffingless fox with 2 squeakers in it. Me & my boyfriend each kept one either as a scarf or in our pocket and when he attacked our feet we made a high pitched yelp then redirected with that toy. The only chew toy he liked was a "bully stick". It smelled horrendous, but he would actually lay down and chew on that without chewing on us. So we kept that for when we needed a break or when we were eating dinner.

But the thing that probably helped the most was time. He's 14 weeks old now and finally starting to learn not to bite people. He's still high energy, but a puppy play date now that he has 2 rounds of shots tires him out (and now that he has 2 rounds of shots we finally feel safe taking him for walks). He finally has an attention span to get training started, and that helps. We taught fetch and that helped with puppy energy a lot.

It does get better. Just gotta wait it out. Puppies are awful, thankfully they are damn cute and generally grow out of it.

My 7mo puppy also isn't always super excited by kibble (he has weeks where he inhales everything in 10 seconds and then weeks when it's like pulling teeth getting him to eat). We got him this puzzle feeder, which can hold a half cup of kibble, and he goes wild for it. Also he has one of those kibble-dispensing balls which he used to love rolling around when he was younger (not sure why he's not into it lately. Maybe because he prefers the puzzle toy). Hope this helps your lil buddy!

I bought this book to learn more about Clicker Training, and it has a great Daily routing in it, along with some logbooks and other great tools for training, besides the actual 'how to do it' parts.

I just got two of these
https://smile.amazon.com/KONG-Puppy-Kong-Small-Assorted/dp/B0002AR18C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496790665&sr=8-1&keywords=puppy+kong

And one of these
https://smile.amazon.com/KONG-StuffN-Treat-8-Ounce-Puppy/dp/B0009YD7P2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496790691&sr=8-1&keywords=puppy+kong+stuffing

Although like I said, sometimes we use small dabs of peanut butter. I got two so that I could switch them out - so he can have one to chew on (empty) during the day and one in the freezer. I've never had a chewer before, so this was my first experience with Kongs, and so far, they're great!

There is only one tip that will help you here, long-term. LIMIT HER ACCESS.

If she chewed up your stuff, it's because you failed to sufficiently supervise her. She's a puppy and she WILL chew whatever she can if given the opportunity. She should either be crated/in a puppy playpen, or under your DIRECT supervision. I mean like, within your line of sight. Leashed to you, preferably, but at least in the same room where you can watch her constantly.

If she doesn't have the opportunity to chew, she won't be chewing. Remove her access to things she can chew on. If she learns to chew on things now, it's a habit she'll have for life. If she has no access to chew on things she shouldn't, then she'll never develop the habit and as an adult, won't chew on things she isn't supposed to.

Aversives, like bitter sprays and such, are short-term solutions and will not actually change the way she thinks or what she wants to do.

If she's under your direct supervision and you see her try to chew something forbidden, then you offer her something safe. I strongly, strongly recommend Himalayan yak cheese chews (like these: https://www.amazon.com/Peppy-Pooch-Cheese-Premium-Chew/dp/B01N3UZ10A) . They're very hard, completely vegetarian and all-natural, and my dog is addicted. Once upon a time, she would chew shoes, metal furniture, wood, etc etc etc. Now, she only chews these and her toys!

There are treat holders that prolong the life of the chew. I think this one is the most popular west paw dispenser. See if it'll work for you?

Definately get a mesh harness. Be wary of front clip harnesses that aren't mesh. We tried a front clip Wonder Walker and the leash would ride up and press on our pup's throat. Even fitted, we could hear choking.

There are different kinds of mesh harnesses. I find that ones through the head are okay if your pup has a small head and comfortable with shit going over his head. If not, I recommend either a mesh step in or a neck adjustable one.

For a growing puppy, the last one would last you the longest because the neck and belly can adjust independently. For durability, we like the 2nd one.

We've tried a Gooby harness and while it was good at first, it wasn't nearly as durable as the Puppia ones or safe. My pup's front legs could slip through the 'x' design. It was really weird. The strap is pretty thin leathery fabric that my 10lb pup chewed in one go. He has yet to chew through the puppia ones.

If you want a chew proof guaranteed one, you'll have to go with Lupine. All their harnesses are guaranteed even if chewed. It's awesome. I have a few, but they aren't as comfortable as the mesh ones.

West Paw Zogoflex Qwizl Interactive Treat Dispensing Dog Puzzle Treat Toy for Dogs, 100% Guaranteed Tough, It Floats!, Made in USA, Small, Tangerine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3BCRHS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_6YlQDb9NYSR6F

It sounds to me like she is guarding those places. You should try reading Mine and check out the wiki for information on Resource Guarding. In the meantime, she should not have access to these things until she is polite about it. That said, you should not ignore your dog's growling. Growling is important communication and you don't want to dissuade her from doing it as dogs that are trained to stop growling as a warning go straight to biting. I would also refrain from picking her up. Dog's don't really like getting picked up anyway, but you can give them a better sense of control by teach limits or the 'off' command.

Maybe something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-D%C3%A9cor-Gate-North-States/dp/B005DOS2EE/
Or

https://www.amazon.com/charaHOME-Fireplace-121-Inch-Adjustable-Christmas/dp/B07Y4VNPY4/

Edit - shortened urls

Potty bells are just a belt with bells attached to it. I bought some from amazon for $13. Hang them by the door. When you know your dog needs to potty put a tiny tiny tiny dab of peanut butter on the bells and let the puppy see it. When they lick the bells and they make noise, praise them. Then open the door and go outside. I also would take my puppy's paw and bat the bells before going outside if he didnt' do it on his own. Only during potty time. After a week of being consistent with the bells every single time we went out for potty he started hitting them on his own. He's only had 2 or 3 accidents inside in the past 3 weeks and he's 14.5 weeks old.

I've been using this: (sorry, can't hyperlink on mobile) Isle of Dogs Tearless Puppy Sulfate Free Shampoo, 16 Fluid Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008672962/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_VugOzb3XXSXBB

Pup doesn't seem to have any problems with it even when I accidentally get a bit in her eye. Very mild and subtle scent. Highly recommend! http://i.imgur.com/TOKQS4A.jpg

Ian Dunbar's Before You Get Your Puppy and After You Get Your Puppy

Sophia Yin's Perfect Puppy in 7 Days

KONG Cozies Dog Squeaky Toy

I thought about buying that for him, but the iguana toy he had, he ended up eating the tail, bit by bit, I would find pieces of it when I would go on poo-pickup patrol.

Yak milk bones!!!! 14/10, they last forever. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/Peppy-Pooch-Cheese-Premium-Chew/dp/B01N3UZ10A/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1535947481&sr=8-6&keywords=yak+milk+bones

We give our 6 mo old bully sticks fairly often, and have since we got him at 3mo. We use this holder, we can shove one half of the stick in and he can't get it out to swallow or anything. Big help when we're out of the house. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N29SD5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yUSWAb2SZ1C0T

We have an almost 6 month old Standard Schnauzer and he got the hang of ringing the potty bells when he needs to go out within a few weeks. It's nice because we can be in another room and hear if he is at the door and needs to go out. The only downside is sometimes he tries to fake us out and rings them when he just wants to wander around outside and chew on a twig.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IX0FMCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I have one of these for inside my house, and it has seemed to work well. I put a regular potty pad under it, and I put a potty pad on the floor next to it, because my guy is only 8 weeks, and he likes to walk forward a little and I want to make sure and catch spills, but it seems to do the job without causing confusion and he still potty's on the grass without issue. good luck!

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also, my vet recommended frozen baby carrots for teething pain.

Best - Bully sticks, he will chew through these things like crazy but it's worth it. He's stopped biting us by 5 months and hasn't destroyed anything in the house.

Worst - Kong Moose, at only 3 months old he had this thing torn apart with stuffing everywhere in about 5 minutes. We complained to amazon and they sent us a new one. The new one lasted about the same amount of time.