(Part 2) Top products from r/trucksim

Allright. One cheap TrackIR coming up.

Ingredients:
1 Ps3 eye cam

driver for ps3 eye cam https://codelaboratories.com/downloads

one floppy disk (or a piece of a proper IR filter). These filters work too if you stack them one of each color http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006Z7M46/

Battery holder 4xAA

one on/off switch

Any plastic case to house the switch and battery holder and resistor

3 IR leds - SFH485p type is best

Some easy to solder electrical wire

1 30 ohm resistor

Some battery wire (if you want to house the "heavy" battery case on the table instead) - i used old phone charger cable.

Ball joint from some old car phone holder. If you make your led-harness from wire, use something like this to be able to position it. Sits between the led-harness and the headphones clip

Plastic clip from a trousers hanger. Just to connect your led-harness to your headphones.

And finally some steel wire to create the led-harness into which you glue the leds. Dimensions are shown in this picture. Of course you can buy the clip ready made (60$ from track-ir, no leds or battery cases needed) or a 3d printed one similar to this


Now on to the tasks involved

You need to remove the IR filter from ps3 eye cam and replace it with either a piece of floppy disk or those proper filters to block out visible light. Floppy will work, but it will react to sunlight and other heat sources - while the purpose made filters will not. Guide with pictures here: http://wiki.lofarolabs.com/index.php/Removing_the_IR_Filter_from_the_PS3_Eye_Camera

Now that the camera is ready, download and install the ps3eye cam driver and test it in facetracknoir or freetrack, use point tracker with the camera to see that it functions. You can try a TV remote.

How to make your led-harness is up to you. You can use steel wire and bend it to the same shape as in the clip dimensions picture, or you can buy a ready made or 3d printed one. Whichever suits you the best.
If you make it yourself, just try to make sure your leds end up in the end spots indicated in the dimensions picture.

The box containing batteries should also contain the resistor and have a hole in the side for the on/off switch. Where you place this box is up to you, if you can manage to build it light enough it can be mounted on the clip itself. I built mine in a robust case so it sits on the table with some old phone charger cable running between the harness and the box.

Your uncle might be able to help you with the resistors & weight. You can build a smaller setup which is entirely powered from just 2AA batteries or from an USB charger, you just need to calculate resistor values for them.

Soldering the IR leds is quite easy as long as you remember to solder them in same orientation, from minus to plus lead. Battery case plus -> resistor -> switch -> led+ side (the non-flat side anode). Then solder from cathode to anode until from the last led run a wire back to the battery case minus.

edited for a bit more clarity.

That makes way more sense! However, I'd recommend this card. A couple pounds more expensive, but it's a 280 instead of a 270, and the reviews say it performs similar to a 280X. I'd never heard of the company, but maybe you have. I looked into them briefly, they're more popular in the UK than over here in the US, but they're the same people as PowerColor, who I'm much more familiar with, and they're trustworthy.

I use something like this


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008LTPEXU/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_147_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41OOkcMIbQL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=1QDH0C91QBDBQF0TS8TK


There are some caveats on the way your wiring is set up in your place, so buy from a store with a good return policy. But I also have that wifi/Bluetooth adapter you posted and it works great so you may be fine with just that. All your own personal preference!

Oh wow, looks like Amazon has one for under $6!
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-Webcam-Camera-Meeting-compatible/dp/B0015TJNEY/

The performance is better with DX11 but unfortunately the flickering is still there, I forgot that the anti aliasing doesn't do anything in VR. I think it was motion sickness that was causing my headaches, I started wearing sea bands while playing and I haven't had any issues. Even with the flickering the game is still gorgeous and a blast to play in VR.

I use a Saitek P880 controller. It's been a trusty PC gaming sidekick of mine for about 15 years. Still works great.

I'd love to get a wheel and pedals, but my desk is small and my room is cramped, and would take up too much room.

Edit: link

If you want to get a similar feeling for less expensive, you can always check out TrackIR. It's a sensor that mounts to your headset or hat and tracks your head movements so you can look around like in VR. Works great and I found a secondhand one on eBay for about $80. Brand New they're $130, but a used one should work just the same.

https://www.amazon.com/TrackIr-Premium-Head-Tracking-Gaming-PC/dp/B0029M6VKA/ref=asc_df_B0029M6VKA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309892766843&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7584461253437923987&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031113&hvtargid=pla-406644911175&psc=1

The SteelSeries SRW-S1 is doing me quite well. No mount, but paddle shifters and throttle/brake levers under them on the back, makes for an interesting driving experience.

The G27 is a clear win. But, if you're like I, the poor old budget gamer, I would reocmmend this: http://www.amazon.com/Genius-TwinWheel-F1-Vibration-Wheel/dp/B000ODVKUC 40 dollars, and it's pretty good for plastic. No "force feedback" but I didn't care

Add these for the back wheels :)

https://www.amazon.com/WEWGO-Stoppers-Furniture-Cups-Pack/dp/B07QB6D68B/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2V6BMJ470ID7W&keywords=wheel+stopper&qid=1574824829&sprefix=wheel+stop%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Shifter-Replacement-Logitech-Thrustmaster-EasyJakeBrake-Windows/dp/B07DVW2WYK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=skrs&qid=1563730537&s=gateway&sr=8-2 I am a somewhat involved trucker, and I have a Logitech G920, the Logi shifter, and this SKRS. The SKRS is very high quality, and I highly recommend it. It is available without the Jake Brake switch.

Why tho? ...well, I guess you have your reasons, sane or not :)

I don't think there's a way to downgrade in steam, unless the developer has it in the "beta channel". Wouldn't count on it tho.

I'd say just get it on dvd from amazon or such, seems like the disk version is 1.0.5, which I'd assume is very close to the initial release version (if not it, even). https://www.amazon.com/Euro-Truck-Simulator-2-PC/dp/B006NU6F28 I don't see a mention of it requiring steam either.

You guys could get one of those foldable stands, where you basically bolt the wheel, pedals and (if any) shifter. Once folded thay can hide away in some narrow space.

For example this one https://www.amazon.com/Wheelstand-Thrustmaster-Wheel-Stand-Pro/dp/B00928QK3M/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1485609277&sr=8-14&keywords=wheel+stand

A better quality one if you have the budget: https://www.amazon.com/Next-Level-Racing-Wheel-Stand/dp/B0171RKZAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485609388&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+stand+next+level

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO9KKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_L7wXDbQ2FV7FY

I used something like this but you will have to program it differently from a regular push-button switch. It will have to be programmed as a toggle.

This took 2 seconds to find

Here's one that comes with two trailers.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ND3XXA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's reduced to £205 in the UK.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Force-Feedback-Wheel-Pedal/dp/B00CJ5FP1I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414329742&sr=8-2&keywords=g27

Every time there is one of these threads nearly everyone ignores the specified budget

I use one of these, works fine, nothing fancy.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-T80-Racing-Wheel-PS4/dp/B00F9F048E/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_of_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00F9F048E&pd_rd_r=24037087-e385-4d50-93d4-834f83b16bfb&pd_rd_w=rFuJg&pd_rd_wg=NSYEX&pf_rd_p=d9539b3c-75e6-4bff-a48d-94806c2c2f83&pf_rd_r=Q38ZMEQM5R3A81B67NY7&psc=1&refRID=WQWS1XYY83XWJ0K8DD66

Whoops, that was a mistake on my part. The card I'm actually looking at right now is the R9 270. A GTX 770 runs to about $350 in the UK.