(Part 3) Top products from r/turning

> The Lathe:

Sounds like you've got this well under control.

> The Tools:

There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)

Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!

You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.

There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.

If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.

Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.


> The Bench Grinder:

The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.

Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.

Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).

> Drill Press?

A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.

The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).

The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.

> Pen turning attachments

• Mandrel savers are a separate purchase.
  
  
• Be warned that barrel trimmers are not universal, they come in different sizes and some pen kits use a sleeve to up-size the trimmer to fit the larger tube.
  
  
• You can use epoxy or CA glue, whichever you prefer to glue tubes. If using CA glue, make sure you buy a spray bottle of accelerator so that you can zap the ends to prevent a dripping mess!
  
  
• Any general sandpaper from a home improvement store will work fine, don't need anything fancy or expensive. Quite a few of us purchased the $40 box from Klingspor's which is enough sandpaper to last me several years.
  
  
• A P100 filter dust mask is a good investment as well for safety gear.
  
  
• FINISH: If you plan to use CA glue as your finish, you need a different viscosity (thin) than what you use to glue the tubes (thick). This means you need to buy two different bottles of CA and look into a pack of MicroMesh sanding pads for polishing the CA finish.
  
  If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.
  
  
• SAW: You need a way to cut pen blanks and trim off excess waste. If you don't own any cutting tools that are sufficient for the job, a cheap miter box will do the job just fine. Make sure you clamp the box and the blank down well before sawing!

That Rikon is a great little machine and it's on sale for $299.00 here ($43 shipping though, but still, it'll save you a little).

We were talking gouges over in /r/woodworking this morning and the harbor freight set actually got a pretty good mention in terms of good steel and edge retention. It's an $80 set, try to get a 20% off coupon & bring the cost down to $64.00.

So we've got ~$90.00 left, and I would use part of that for a bowl gouge because I was looking at the harbor freight sets just now and they don't really include one of those. The Hurricane tools on Amazon seem to be getting good reviews and since your budget will likely allow for just one, I'd recommend this 3/8" one as the most useful all around size.

That leaves you around $50.00 or so.

ETA: I have the Rikon so let me know if you have any more questions about it. The belt changes are easy on it.

That's a bit of a tall order :)
Just give them a little wax along with the bowl. Tell them if it ever starts looking dull to just wipe some on.

You can buy butcher block oil for $12 or make your own.

Cheap, effective, edible finish:

1. Go to the drug store. Buy two $3 bottles of mineral oil. You will find it near the laxatives.
   
   
2. Go to the craft store or Amazon. Buy a bag of bees wax chips or a brick. Yellow or white - doesn't matter.
   Stakich 1-lb Pure White BEESWAX Pellets - Cosmetic Grade, Top Quality - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LQZOLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_WQKDwb63YV70A
   
   
   
3. Pour first bottle of mineral oil into a small cooking pot. Heat up the mineral oil on low heat - many people use a double boiler but my stove goes super low so I am not as worried. Drop a few chunks of the wax in to see if it starts melting - that's the temperature you want. Stir wax in.
   The ratio is usually 50/50 but I also make a higher wax content version as well to make it more like a polish.
   
   Don't let it get too hot. Take it off the stove if needed.
   
   
4. Pour the mix into a clean jar (or many clean jars for gifts).
   
   Use the other bottle to do a first flood coat. Then After letting the wood absorb some mineral oil, just wipe of your home made finish on and wipe off a few mins later. This also works great on the lathe allowing you to buff the wax.

The PSI micromesh sanding pads work fine, and you can definitely get great results with them, but I've had much better luck with this style. Definitely worth trying when it comes time to replace your current pads.

What is the difference between these two sets(aside from number of pieces)?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIECW4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KI8CTS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I am trying to figure out what to get for my boyfriend for Christmas, and he's in a similar situation of having a lathe but no turning tools. I also have a face shield in my amazon cart. He's had a box of smaller turning blanks for a while now.

He does a reasonable amount of woodworking(makes a lot of furniture, is super into hand tools), but he's new to turning, so if you have any suggestions, it would be appreciated!

Your spindle is not 1.5", probably or even 1". I'd bet good money that your spindle is 3/4" diameter and 16 threads per inch. I have a very large lathe and my spindle is only 1.25". Look for a chuck with a 3/4" x 16 thread or one that can take a 3/4" x 16 threaded insert. The standard recommendation around here is the Nova G3. It's a little over your budget but you won't ever regret the purchase. Do NOT buy the chuck you linked to. It's not meant to hold wood and the jaws are independent which means you have to adjust each jaw separately - good luck getting things centered.

Assuming the lathe is 3/4 x 16 you want
https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-48202-Turning-Chuck-Insert/dp/B0064JJ52U and https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064JJ88Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500901907&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nova+insert&dpPl=1&dpID=41QjeodDeLL&ref=plSrch

I'll start by saying that I would like to pick up a carbide tool someday as I think they have a place and a purpose.

That said, I'd suggest getting a good, heavy scraper of some kind to do your hollowing. You already have a sharpening system, scrapers are the easiest thing to sharpen in the world, and the extra mass they have over the rods carbide tools use will be desirable as you reach further and further over your rest.

I think thick bowl scraper is one of the finest tools a turner can invest in, but even a small round nose scraper will do a heck of a job. For $26 this would be a great tool for you.

Well, good to see I've made every single one of these mistakes at this point.

This is a great video, and I highly recommend his book, Turning Wood. I probably don't need to do that, though, because you already have it.

Robert Sorby.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002IXQHO?vs=1&vs=1

6 piece set above is $200. Use the rest for a slew speed grinder (woodcraft has a nice one that regularly goes on sale for $99). Save up for a wolverine jig.

Always remember that the lathe is the cheap part-it's the accessories that hit you right in the wallet.

Currently on amazon you could purchase a delta 8 in variable speed identical to that porter cable for $79 with free shipping. For $10 more than that Mastercraft you can get lower speed to help reduce heat build up. And its a larger motor.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LHUWAFK?cache=a075059e674dc9b7791868ef37a7d03c&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1408847324&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

FAJ Magnetic 12-Inches Extra Long... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012C240BS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use this one, it's small but very bright and the neck is plenty long enough and stiff enough to stay where you put it even through vibrations from the lathe. Magnetic base, of course. Also, it plugs in, so no having to change out batteries constantly. I have a power strip zip tied to my lathe base and it's cord is plenty long enough to stay out of the way.

If you're making similar parts you might be able to create a jam chuck or other shop-made fixture to hold the part. Maybe this book would help?

Not OP, but one of my favorite turning books is more about chucks than turning.

https://www.amazon.com/Fixtures-Chucks-Woodturning-Everything-Wood-Holder/dp/1565235193/ref=pd_rhf_sc_s_qp_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1565235193&pd_rd_r=CW0R3SR6WM3DZF8A5RJN&pd_rd_w=Fpfkq&pd_rd_wg=WDth1&psc=1&refRID=CW0R3SR6WM3DZF8A5RJN

I second all the comments about pre-cutting the blanks round, learning to sharpen, and never use a roughing gouge on a bowl.

I highly recommend any of Richard Raffan's books on turning. An evening spent reading his book on bowl turning will be time well spent.

No problem. I just checked mine, and the threading is 3/4 inch 16 thread. Because this is a bit of a strange size I had to get an adapter to make my nova chuck fit. You might have to do the same when you get a chuck. Mine has a mt1 tail stock, so my drill chuck is mt1.

I looked it up, and it appears that your lathe has the same specs as mine,but I make no promises.

By the way, good luck with your turning.

something to sharpen with (grinder)

told that these are good to start with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIECW4/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I highly recommend Richard Raffan's book on the subject. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1561585092/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1374150987&sr=8-3&pi=SL75

Thanks! I used [these] (http://imgur.com/a7Gmysb) to finish it. I sand through 600, then applied [EEE Ultrashine] (http://amzn.com/B001DT5H7I) follow-ed up with a few coats of [Mylands High Build Friction Polish] (http://amzn.com/B004BL7X4U).

I'm just starting to experiment with the CA glue finish technique, but my results have been mixed.

Agreed. Harbor freight sells a decent lathe for the same price or cheaper.

www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZBCOWU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_fpVEybHN4PWZN

I picked up a cheap magnetic LED light that’s on a goose neck from Amazon. Stick it anywhere on the lathe body, then use it at an oblique angle for finishing to see the scratches, or move it to light the inside of a bowl/etc. when hollowing.

There’s a ton of options, but this is the one I have. I didn’t want it to be very big.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012C240BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DP1RCbNNY81SW

I haven't used food coloring yet, so can't really comment on that aspect of it, but I ordered some Keda Dye about a year ago because I wanted to experiment with aniline dye without blowing a chunk of change on TransTint. I mix it with DNA (water can be used as well) so I can flash it off with a torch and set the colors quickly. Example on a bowl

Any recommendations? I would probably get this one left to my own devices

I ordered this one, I have the discontinued small variable speed hf desktop lathe and an old craftsman which both have the 3/4 16tpi so it’ll work for both.

nova 48202 g3

https://www.amazon.com/48202-WOODLATHE-CHUCK-WOODWORM-INSERT/dp/B0037M8M3U

You need a quarter round bit for a router to round the sides and then a hook knife to carve the bowls.

https://www.amazon.com/Mora-Frost-164-Woodcarving-Knife/dp/B00343VCCK

https://www.amazon.com/TREND-AIR-PRO-Airshield-Faceshield/dp/B002Q0Y5IU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?hvadid=177804152046&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9016823&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7796429527908812396&hvtargid=kwd-5877316711&keywords=trend+airshield+pro&qid=1554321897&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Where else... Amazon!

I used triple E and shellawax


Shellawax
http://www.amazon.com/Shellawax-Liquid-Friction-Polish-8-45/dp/B001FX4EFI


Triple E

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DT5H7I/ref=pd_aw_vtph_229_tr_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0EGKNM4E2R30VFW8Z9HK

Here is the desktop version of your link

Is that this book? Not sure if lidded is part of the title.

There are tons of videos.

But I would recommend turning wood with Richard Raffan @ $20 it's a steal for the amount of information you will gain...

I purchased this Bench Top Wood Lathe 8in x 12in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZBCOWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rz7Oyb799B7EG

(On mobile sorry for terrible format.)