(Part 2) Top products from r/voroncorexy

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

Many options here!

Personally I've used this heat shield tape which is meant for reflecting heat but only ever took it to about 70C. Don't know if it'll unglue at 100C. Did a pretty decent job, making my bed heat up faster and stay warm longer while cycling the heater less. I also used this tape on my hot end before the silicone condoms were out but the heat was softening the adhesive, and I had to use kapton tape to secure it. Also worked reasonably well.

Yeah it's a little large, it is 24"^3 but gives clearance for the top and the side for filament spool changes. I am surprised how warm it gets even without using active heat.

I bought 5, 1/4"x 24"x24" sheets, cut one side of the back panel to 23 1/2" so that the top and front panels would cover the edge.

Here are some more detailed pics.

These are the lights that I used, inserted through the upper Z rod supports.

Nope, no binder clips.. I use this stuff which works very nice and really grips both the metal plate and glass when it's heated up but releases the glass pretty easily when it cools.

Have you played around much with different springs as far as how much force is needed? For example, would this spring be close enough to work? It's the same dimensions, but a bit stronger spring force. My concern is finding the balance between spring force here vs. not compressing the bed level springs when probing.

An ATX power supply would work fine, but might I suggest you check one of these out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001LK8TCO/ref=psdcmw_1161760_t3_B007JNUSJY

If I'm not mistaken it's a 1U server power supply. More wattage than you'll ever use and probably more reliable than a cheap knockoff supply. You can read a bit more about modifying it here. Basically just applying a dummy load, just like with an ATX power supply.

In the latest version you only need 1 to hold the ramps case door shut. I already had them on hand and I don't believe Bolt Depot sales those so they aren't included.

Hardware wise you'll still need the 3/16" steel dowels, Acetal dowels, neoprene washers, and springs from either McMaster or some other source.

If you are like me and addicted to 2 day prime shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YCHRZG/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5XF54/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KSQDKS/ - cut these to the right length
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KV0MFW/ - cut these to the right length

You are still on your own to find the neoprene washers. I happen to have some 60A neoprene sheeting on hand that I cut to create dampening squares.

Also these are a suitable replacement for 92470A056 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBMROKC/ I believe RCF said he was switching to a similar screw in the kits.

you can also find the omron ssr on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003B316N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using these for the feet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IMJ3S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FCzwxbQR7D42P

I also have a set of ninja flex ones. They are not completely noise dampening, but my noise requirement are different from most people's. I'll push the STLs today or tomorrow for those. I believe there was another guy here that did the feet in OpenSCAD for it.

You know, I have a shitload of M3-M5 nuts and bolts but very few screws that fit electronics. I guess now that I am a budding maker I need to remedy this lack. I've got 50 #1 screws coming to address the issue ;) I keep my hardware in several of these boxes. I will be printing some cases soon.

I used this tapping bit and this cutting oil and they worked marvelously.

And to re-state the re-stated: Take your time.

these (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-20-Universal-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B002AVVO7U) changed my view on the connectors. Those big stupid ratcheting ones are useless.