Reddit reviews Klein Tools 11057 Wire Cutter / Wire Stripper, Heavy Duty Wire Cutter Stripper for 20-30 AWG Solid Wire and 22-32 AWG Stranded Wire

He might not have nice hand tools. I like these:

Wire strippers 20-30awg

Dykes, needlenose pliers and tweezers are also essential.

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

Those style strippers aren't great for small stuff, below 20ga they can be unreliable. I use them for 10-18ga mostly since I do car wiring.

I have a few different ones. Back side picture. The ones on the left are junk, I would wear them out in under 100 strips, I keep a pair in my car tool bag. Irwins have done thousands of strips and are still great. Blackhawk are a bit better than the Irwins, I like the screw set on the depth gauge and the hole that lets the insulation fall out the back.

Looking at the depth gauge I wouldn't be surprised if those Stanleys came off the same line as the Irwins, looks identical other than the handles.

I use this style for small stuff. Never found any auto strippers that would do below 24ga reliably.

my couple of cents:

LEGIBLY LABEL EVERY PULL (on both ends)

Now for the less important tips:
>power tools are great until the cord doesn't reach or the battery needs a recharge; invest in handtools first
>Since you're starting a new install in non-resi location: terminate using T-568B, unless other equipment is already using 568A
>Use a patch panel that takes keystone connectors
>home run everything back to a telecom rack that can be locked
>Observe bend radii and conduit/opening fill limits to avoid damage to the cable during the pull
>If installing on the shop floor/area: protect the cable pulls with conduit (sch 80 PVC or EMT, IMC or RMC if code calls for it) until the pull is at least 8ft off the floor
>use bushings and other fittings to prevent cable from chafing/rubbing on sharp/rough edges of conduit (if used)
>Pull 2 runs when you think you need 1 and pull 3 when you think you need 2
>Pull cat 6 instead of cat 5e if possible (the cost difference is minimal in most situations)
>Don't waste time/energy/hassle trying to make your own patch cables to "save money" (only crimp RJ45s to learn how, if you have to make the termination fit in a confined space, or to execute a repair)
>leave as much of the native twist undisturbed as practical during termination
>depending on zoning and other factors (how the building is built) you may need to use cable with certain ratings (CMX/CMR/CMP)
>1000ft of cable goes quickly in a commercial shop
>if you have HazLoc/ATEX rated equipment or spaces in the shop, have a licensed company do this; there are a lot of special requirements that need to be followed or your shop could be a future post on /r/catastrophicfailure
>assume each desk/workstation needs at least 2 drops; one for data and one for VoIP/POTS
>using wi-fi (without a backup or alterante means) on for business-critical applications gets costly quickly. Example: in place I worked, the cost of 1 hour downtime in the shipping department was the same as having 2 guys wire the whole warehouse and shipping area with cat 6 (labor, materials, and scissor lift rental).
>fire caulk and fire rated foam are handy
>you may need to pack cable pass throughs with steel or copper wool to prevent rodents from having a highway through the whole shop
>put drops in to support all major machinery work cells (they may not be internet connected today, but give that ~24 months)
>the following tools are super handy for this type of work:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XEUPMQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076M3ZHBV
https://www.amazon.com/Jonard-ES-1964-Carbon-Electrician-Scissor/dp/B0069629IK (or similar)

This is one i usually use or similar but different brand: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3775-Electricians-Combination-Tool/dp/B000NPUK2A/ref=lp_553398_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1418488304&sr=1-6

If you want to go a little fancier :
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-11057-Tools-Kurve-Stripper-Cutter/dp/B000XEUPMQ/ref=lp_553398_1_8?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1418488304&sr=1-8

the nice thing about the second one is it will be easier to work with for smaller wires. The first is more of a jack of all wire strippers.

US here. sorry i
f you cant get these in Denmark.

For wire strippers: I recommend these

Klein Tools 11057 Wire Stripper and Cutter for 20-30 AWG Solid Wire and 22-32 AWG Stranded Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XEUPMQ/

They have a 10-18 gauge version and a 20-30 gauge version.

The "autostrippers" work less well for fine gauge wire. They also aren't as precise.

The Klein ones are well made. I'm sure there is an off brand version that is identical and cheaper. There are a lot of cheap quality ones out there though.