Reddit reviews AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter Wwith AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control
We found 13 Reddit comments about AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter Wwith AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Two channels of Active speaker level inputs - Accept 400 watt signals per channelFixed and variable outputs with discrete level controlsAccuBASS processing for correction of bass roll-offInput For Optional Remote Level ControlCompact design
I started with the Sync 2 system in my 2016 Explorer and noticed the clipping as well. It drove me crazy along with sync 2/MFT. I too had most of my climate involved with the HU and sought out possible solutions. I ended up installing a sync 3 system from a newer parted ford along with This. I also added a small sub, but would still have been possible without the sub. After install, absolutely 0 clipping! It changed everything and sounds fantastic for pretty much a stock setup!
>JL 500/1
That amp accepts 8V max speaker level. Pretty friggin low, even without a factory subwoofer amp output. An $89 Pioneer head unit can output more than that. I'm not kidding.
Use an LC2i
I set up a sub in my ST1 not long after getting it, it makes a big difference! There are 3 things you'll need:
the LC2i will give you the output you need. the way i did it was tapping the LC2i into the rear speaker wires and then plugging the amp into the LC2i.
That all being said, id reccomend going to your local car audio shop and asking them for a reccomended, entery level sub and amp combo. if you want to do all the wiring yourself you'll need:
Thats more or less my experience, its a bit of work but not bad.
Sure, you just need a line out converter. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AAQGybXNRFXF9
this would be better for the money . i would spend more and the lc2i
That's where it gets tricky. You'll need to connect your stock HU to a line out converter (LOC). The LOC will need 2 things connected to it: speaker wire inputs for a signal + remote turn on signal. using these the LOC can connect to the monoblock via RCA's (low level inputs). You'll need to look at a particular guide on youtube or in a mazda forum (or from someone here) to find out the most stress free way of getting the speaker level inputs and remote signal wire from the stock HU.
RCA's should be provided in that amp install package. The only extra thing you need to get is a LOC. If that one is too pricey, Crutchfield sells some cheaper models - the Rockford model seems reliable.
You only have a 90 amp alternator, so figure 5-600 watts to play with.
2x Dayton subs
Box
Soundstream mono amp
No external LOC required, one is built into the amp.... but you might splurge on a AudioControl lc2i in case ford is still screwing with bass roll off frequencies.
Or, give Mike Singer a call about upgrading your alternator and start from there.
Your stock radio likely doesn't have a line out, so you can use a line-out converter such as this or this. You can wire the inputs to your rear/trunk speakers and the RCA output goes to your amp. For your amplifier's remote turn-on input, you can find the fuse for the radio in your fuse box and use this with a second (much smaller) fuse. You do not need to remove your stock radio to install any of this. Crutchfield has nice instructions for installation in most scenarios. Happy wiring!
You can do something cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487621231&sr=8-2&keywords=line+out+converter
or expensive with adjustment:
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487621231&sr=8-4&keywords=line+out+converter
I'll be in Jacksonville from May 25 - 28, then leaving back for Alabama Monday morning. If you can get all of this before then and want to drive to the Mandarin area of Jacksonville on Friday before noon, I can help you get it installed.
Edit: that's everything I used, minus some zip ties, electrical tape, and quick splice connectors. Regardless of if im able to help or not, those items will get your system running. Also, my Florida trip is about an 80% go, so there's a small chance I wont be there.
This little beauty. It’s more expensive than other line out converters, but totally worth it.
I don't know how easy it is to install because I had a audio shop do mine but I replaced my front speakers with Kicker 6x9 & tweeters, backs with Kicker 6.5" speakers & installed a Kicker 11HS8 8" hideaway sub under the rear seat. It's all run by the factory head unit with a Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier & a AudioController LC2i to power everything & even out the sound. Sounds a lot better than the Bose system imo. Here's a couple links to some of the products I used although there's some other similar options made by other manufactures as well. I couldn't stand the regular stock stereo, you can hardly even hear the rear speakers & bass is nonexistent.
https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11HS8-Hideaway-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14ZVDXCI9A4A5&keywords=kicker+hideaway+11hs8&qid=1566757560&s=gateway&sprefix=kicker+hideaway%2Caps%2C408&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Alpine+KTP-445U&qid=1566757860&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=audio+controller+lc2i&qid=1566757904&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1
>PAC lP7-2
Also, I read on the max forum people were saying this LOC made a huge difference over a lower quality one..
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https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=LOC&qid=1563194668&s=gateway&sr=8-5
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Not sure how accurate that is but it's a lot more expensive ($80 vs $20)..