Reddit reviews DC Voltage Regulator, DROK DC-DC Buck Converter Module 10V-75V to 0-60V 12A Adjustable Power Supply Step Down Transformer Board DKP6012 CC CV Numerical Control Volt Reducer
We found 5 Reddit comments about DC Voltage Regulator, DROK DC-DC Buck Converter Module 10V-75V to 0-60V 12A Adjustable Power Supply Step Down Transformer Board DKP6012 CC CV Numerical Control Volt Reducer. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
DROK buck conveter input voltage range is DC 10-75V, adjustable output voltage range is DC 0-60V, can be used to convert 24v to 12v 5v, adjustable output current range is 0-12A, max output power is 720W.Constant Current & Voltage: the step down regulator can adjust to constant output voltage, or constant output current by the key.LED Disply: our power supply board is with digital LED display, can real-time display voltage, current, capacity and time.Auto Output: the dc to dc converter module can be set automatic output after powering on.Equipped with cooling fan: the volt reducer comes with a small cooling fan.
I'm using an N2 for music playback in my car now, although I solved most of the similar requirements you mentioned by also having a Nexus 7 in front of it. I found some nice touch screens and 7 inch digitizers that technically worked but getting everything to play nice together in Android was tough. I preferred the Nexus 7 / N2 combo in the end.
The Nexus 7 runs android for maps/YouTube/Spotify all that and the N2 does what it does best and outputs quality audio over Bluetooth to 3.5mm jack. I forked this Pi gist for easy Bluetooth A2DP and modified for the N2 and other non-raspbian SBCs, give it a go if you're looking for that:
https://gist.github.com/MrDoctorKovacic/5bd4943b27320e65a033948fafb86d19
For power management, find an ACC power line in your car (usually one of the wires to the stock radio), connect to a buck converter and timed relay. Loss of power on GPIO will tell the N2 to safely shutdown and the relay will kill power to the power supply about 30 seconds later.
Depends on the car, but many vehicles just run the VCC coming from the alternator/battery, which ranges from 11.4V to 13.8V. Their radios or infotainment account for that. THIS RANGE WILL KILL YOUR ODROID! It must be regulated to ~12.2v either by you or the car.
If that's the case you need to have a good power supply going to the N2 preferably one that can step up and down and provide about 2-3 amps. 3A if you're doing a camera/GPS/SSD. I use this one, no complaints. Vendors, especially on AliExpress and eBay, lie all the time and their power supplies either drop voltage/amperage randomly or can't keep up with spikes. This doesn't matter for LEDs or motors, but isn't good for a computer. If you value your time, don't cheap out on the power supply.
I also have a small router by GLi Net which has a USB tethering feature, and spits that phone hotspot out over WiFi and ethernet connection to the N2 (I have a switch but you don't need one). I don't know if the N2 is able to tether directly, if it can this router is redundant. let me know!
Any USB camera should work fine, use quality extension cables (USB3 even if the camera is USB2) if you're running it from the rear to the front. Good chance a bad cable will lead to degraded image or random disconnects.
EMMC will boot faster than an SSD I believe.
That's about all I know. This is a tough project to do right, I recommend if you want something cheap and easy to stick with a Nexus 7 or similar. I've been playing with SBCs for my car about 3 years now because it's fun, but I still haven't landed on a setup I'm satisfied with. The N2 will end up being as expensive as off the shelf options imo
Would either of these be appropriate, or not at all?
Power Supply Module, DROK DC-DC Buck Converter 5.3V-32V 24v to Adjustable 1.2V-32V 5v 9v 12v Step Down Voltage Regulator 12A Step-Down Volt Transformer 160W CC CV DC Reducer with LCD Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Q1624B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TkgUCbAH5HTER
DC Buck Converter, DROK DC-DC Step Down Voltage Regulator 10V-75V 60v 24v to 0-60V 12v 5v 12A DKP6012 Digital Control Volt Reducer Board Power Supply Module with LED Display & CC CV Mode https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LGTTRN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5xgUCbVK3Z3FA
Idk what I'm actually looking for here besides a buck/boost controller with an lcd lol
Sorry for the slow response. Hopefully you sorted it already. The output filter shouldn't matter. If this module is defective or there is a secret we're both missing then either go with the cheap AC to DC 12v solution I linked or get a board like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Regulator-Transformer-Automotive/dp/B00CGURKUA
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Voltage-Regulator-10V-75V/dp/B071LGTTRN
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Regulator-Constant-Adjustable/dp/B01MSJQAKY/
Have you considered changing the wiring on the LEDs? Quadruple the number you have in series then you have your 48v setup done with no major component changes?
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Voltage-Regulator-10V-75V/dp/B071LGTTRN/ I think that would do it. 10-75V DC input, 0-60V DC output with a max output power of 720W. You might be able to find one slightly cheaper that does something similar, but just make sure its within the specs you listed.
short version, no. but actually yes.
yes, you can drop it in and it will work. but that will be wearing out the internal BMS alot faster. and may brick you battery if your not careful.
you need a 2 stage charger, constant amps, followed by constant volts. i am using this 10A 60V charger for my lipo leaf batteries. you set max volts and max amps and it takes care of the rest. this will work for yours, but slowly.
in any case, you need a battery disconect. a switch will do, or you can go for a voltage based solution that will only disconect with the engine is not running.
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edit speling