Reddit Reddit reviews Etekcity Digital Multimeter Battery Tester with hFE

We found 11 Reddit comments about Etekcity Digital Multimeter Battery Tester with hFE. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Electrical Equipment
Electrical Testers
Multi Testers
Etekcity Digital Multimeter Battery Tester with hFE
Designed to safely and accurately troubleshoot a variety of automotive and household electrical problemsAccurately measures current, voltage, resistance, and moreDiode assembly test / Transistor P-N junction test/Transistor hFE testOverload protection on all ranges. Sampling 2/3 times readings per secondFeatures Data Hold and an easy-to-read large Backlit LCD display ; 3-Month Warranty
Check price on Amazon

11 Reddit comments about Etekcity Digital Multimeter Battery Tester with hFE:

u/meest · 3 pointsr/SVRiders

Charge the battery. Then start the bike. Get a volt meter and measure the battery. Does it read 13.6/14? Then your stator is working. If its reading below 12.2/12ish then no its not.

Any cheap multi-meter like this will do.
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Digital-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter-Multimeter/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1426052117&sr=8-7&keywords=multi+meter

To make it easier to check You may as well buy a battery tender if you haven't already. Run the lead somewhere (I ran it under my passenger seat so I can plug in a USB adapter to charge my phone while I ride. But then you can meter off that in a pinch also. Not to mention it will slowly trickle charge you battery (It won't be fast by any means, but I've done it myself after this past winter, as my shed has no close by power and I didn't have time to bring my battery inside)
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426052180&sr=1-1&keywords=battery+tender


If its showing good when running you have a power draw somewhere. keep the meter connected while the bike is off. then pull one fuse at a time until it appears the load goes away(aka the voltage stays the same for a while without it draining down. Especially if its dead in 4 minutes you should be able to see it quickly). You may have a short in your lights. That's normally where I would expect it.

u/nerga · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Coding can be done in python. Rasperry pi has by default a RPi.GPIO package that gives you very very easy interfacing with the GPIO pins on the board. You will need some resistors, and some leds, and a breadboard (board that lets you put wires into it so you don't need solder). Assuming you have a pi and that is working I would get these:

breadboard

jumpers

resistors and leds starter kit

DMM, not necessary but nice to have.

Here is a nice guide to the pinout on the pi and the numbering system

This is a nice guide to using rasperry pi GPIO python package

This is the generic python tutorial assuming you do not know python.

edit:

while we are at it here are some other fun things you can do with a pi:

Make it move with these ICs and DC motors. Not pi can not hook up dc motors directly, thus the chips. There are also rover kits with dc motors and wheels already.

There are sonic range sensors.

GPS receivers

temperature sensors

uv light sensors

There are a lot of projects you can do with relatively cheap sensors with the pi.

u/uo959 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Start here. I'm a soon to be IT guy and love using my mech as well as the tinkering, so I am sure you will too.

As far as beginner setup a tobh RDA is easy to build on and a Nemesis mech is usually considered a good starter. The mech isn't as necessary to get a "starter" because it is kind of hard to mess up. You would be fine with a Stingray, 4nine, Vanilla, Penny, or Caravela. I have a 'Vela now and wish I had it as a beginner mech. Either way you go make sure you get copper or silver plated brass contacts.

Nitecore charger from Amazon is what you want and I would get either Sony vtc4/vtc5 or Samsung 25r batteries. 26 or 28 awg from Amazon. The rest you should have around the house. I started wrapping coils around wooden toothpicks, but since your IT I'm sure you have a precision screwdriver set. Just plain old cotton balls are fine for wicking(I have never boiled cotton and have never had problems).

Feel free to ask any questions. I hope this puts you all in the right direction.

Edit: Forgot to mention, I got a multimeter off of Amazon too. Here it is. Also, I added some links of where to get a few things.

u/Hawkdup45 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Had the same problem,it was my rosewill green 600W PSU. You need to test that power supply with either a PSU tester like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UZHB6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_n9BnzbJWS4NY7 or a DVOM like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_a-BnzbAV7N36P

u/anormalgeek · 1 pointr/buildapc

I would recommend picking one up. It's one of those things you don't realize how often you might use it until you have one. Also they're cheap.

Example: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7CS3UY/

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/buildapc

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7CS3UY/

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/omgucr · 1 pointr/fixit

Everything in your pictures seems fine. It looks like this side has the battery(power) components of the headphones. The other side likely contains the audio amp portion of everything.

You may have a bad connection on that side since the blue and brown(yellow) wires that connect to the speaker travel through a wire in the head band to the other side.

Here are some trouble shooting tips.

  • Open the other side of the headphone and look to see where the blue and brown wire end on the other side. Look for bad solder joints. The look like this.

  • Get a multimeter like this one to check for continuity from your headphone plug all the way up to the audio amp board that I suspect is on the other side of your headset.

  • If you don't get anywhere with the previous steps you can try the following to determine if you have a bad cable/connection or a bad amp circuit. Doing this could be risky and may damage your headphones more but it may be worth checking. With your headphone open and taken apart, plug your headphone in to an audio source and have it play. Gently tug, pull and massage on all of the cables that terminate on any board or circuit. Listen closely if the speaker starts working. This would be evedince of a bad cabel or solder joint. Continue by massaging the cord all the way from the head phone jack to the actual headset. Bend the cord back and forth intermittently, especially anywhere the cord starts, ends or flexes naturally during use. Again listen closely to see if the speaker cuts on when you do this.

    Good Luck

u/nope_bye · 1 pointr/Multicopter

OP, you should consider getting a multimeter. I found one on amazon for just $11 with prime. You can use this to check resistance, voltage, and current. In this case, you could check to make sure you didn't bridge anything that wasn't supposed to be bridged. It's a tool you'll use often and keep for years.

u/not_today_trebeck · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I use a multimeter similar to this, so I can test my batteries and coils. It's an overall handy tool to have.

u/TomN · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

That kit looks pretty good. I would also grab a cheap multimeter like this
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Ohmmeter/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394073996&sr=1-1&keywords=multimeter

If you want to shop around looks at some of the stuff adafruit and sparkfun have