Reddit reviews First Alert BRK 7010B Hardwired Smoke Detector with Photoelectric Sensor and Battery Backup
We found 4 Reddit comments about First Alert BRK 7010B Hardwired Smoke Detector with Photoelectric Sensor and Battery Backup. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
120 volt hardwire smoke alarm with photoelectric sensor and battery backupFeatures convenient 9 volt battery backup, silence/test button, dust cover, 85 decibel alarmInter connectable with BRK and first alert hardwired smoke and carbon monoxide alarmsIntuitive latching alarm indicator identifies which unit triggered alarm. Backed by 10 year limited warranty and tested to meet UL 217 standards85 decibel alarmFaster turnarounds on job sites with the easy-to-install, most-trusted alarms in home safety
I would recommend against modifying a fire alarm. You can buy battery-backed smoke alarms already for $20 or less, with lots of other features including networking. https://www.amazon.com/BRK-7010B-Hardwire-Photoelectric-Battery/dp/B000H3AGZO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493576850&sr=8-5&keywords=battery+backed+fire+alarm
If you modify a smoke alarm and it fails in a fire you will likely be held civilly liable, i.e. insurance will reject claims, and it's possible that criminal charges may apply.
http://www.firealarmsonline.com/2013/06/IllegaltoTamperwithFireAlarms.html
Short answer, no, don't modify your alarm, just buy one that has the features you want. If I knew how to do what you are attempting, I would not help you because doing so would attach liability and I have zero interest in that happening.
First, no fire alarm should be located near the stove, but if it is, it should be a photo-electric alarm, NOT an ionization alarm. Most people have ionization alarms, and I'd bet yours is too. So step one, IMO, would be to replace the ionization alarm near your stove with a photoelectric alarm, like this one.
If you're lucky, the landlord can just twist off the old one, unplug it from the wire it's connected to, and replace it with a new photoelectric alarm. I replaced all of my hard wired alarms and it was a very easy job if you get the same brand.
If that isn't possible, I'd probably cover it, like others have said, but if you do that you still need decent fire alarms. And make sure you have at least one photoelectric alarm in your apartment. You're taking a risk if you don't. Photoelectric alarms are better for the fires that tend to kill people. Read this for more information. I bought my daughter a photoelectric alarm for her apartment, so now she has both types. Here's one for 9 bucks. It could save your life. Put it in a central location away from the stove so you've got coverage in case you get fed up and end up taking a baseball bat to the one near your stove.
That's great!
But, the rest of us aren't so confident about the Anet A8 seeing how there are multiple examples of them catching fire.
#1 2017
#2 2017
#3 2017
#4 2018
That's me taking 5 minutes. Actually I spent more time writing this than researching this. An exhaustive search would probably yield more and these are just the ones people are telling us about.
Maybe they can be made safe, but that needs to happen in the factory, not after the fact by the consumer who probably isn't an electrical engineer. You're not an electrical engineer are you?
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert. Take my advice at your own risk.
I don't know what's causing these fires. But, I've heard mention of mainboards and PSU's. You should probably take the task of heating off the mainboard and put it onto external mosfets for the hotend and the hotbed. You might also want to replace the factory power supply (PSU) with something more robust. As long as the A8 is 12 volts I'd probably suggest an ATX power supply conversion if you're handy with a soldering iron and feel confident you can do it. ATX power supplies come with a number of built-in safety features. Here's a wiki on choosing a PSU.
You might also want to add some basic fire suppression to your print area. This maybe would stop a fire, but it's not going to stop an electrical short creating heat and therefore acting as an ignition source. It might give you more time to react in the case that a fire does start.
Edit: I couldn't find the rating on the rangehood fire extinguisher so, this ball extinguisher that is ABC rated might be a better option if you can figure out how to suspend it above your printer which shouldn't be too hard as it comes with a metal stand.
I would definitely add a fire extinguisher nearby where you print.
Then add a fire alarm above your printer and in the adjacent room.
This is not just advice for you, but it's advice for anyone. I've done all three of the above suggestions. I've add the stove rangehood fire extinguisher. I've wall mounted a fire extinguisher in the adjacent room. I've also add two fire alarms, one above my printer and another in the adjacent room.
Be safe my friend and heed the warnings these multiple fires are broadcasting.
Whatever you do, I recommend photoelectric smoke detectors.
> In tests, ionization alarms will typically respond about 30 to 90 seconds faster to “fast-flame” fires than photoelectric smoke alarms. However, in smoldering fires ionization alarms respond an average of 15 to 50 minutes slower than photoelectric alarms. Several studies indicate that they will outright fail to activate up to 20-25% of the time. The vast majority of residential fire fatalities are due to smoke inhalation, not from the actual flames and almost two-thirds of fire fatalities occur at night while we sleep. [Source] (http://www.propertyevaluation.net/Photoelectric%20vs%20Ionization%20Smoke%20Alarms%20-%20Deadly%20Differences.html)
I bought First Alert Interconnected ones, but it would depend if you have a hardwired system or not.