Top products from r/HomeNetworking

We found 1,117 product mentions on r/HomeNetworking. We ranked the 2,146 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/HomeNetworking:

u/Glynnryan · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

TL/DR: a bit of background and personal experience ultimately suggesting that you run some network cable, and look into a full Ubiquiti setup with USG router, PoE switch & NanoHD Wi-Fi AP’s for around $400 including cabling, provided you’re not planning on upgrading your internet to faster than 1Gbps soon.

I’m not familiar with coax cable internet, but assume you can get some sort of Ethernet handoff from your modem?

Either way, make the effort and run some CAT6 cabling for Wi-Fi AP’s, and key devices too if possible.

My network setup in my 1150 square foot apartment, works perfectly on my 200Mbps fibre connection and would cost you around $483 for the following:

u/KingdaToro · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ubiquiti UniFi is the way to go here. It's a whole business-grade system that's managed from a controller, which makes managing any number of devices similar to managing a single wireless router like you're probably used to.

First you'll need the router. It's a router only, without a switch or AP built in, so just connect the WAN1 port to your modem/ONT and the LAN1 port to your main switch.

Second, you'll need access points (APs). There are three main choices here, each with its own pros and cons:

AP Lite: Small and cheap, but still fast, supports two 2.4 GHz streams and two 5 GHz streams (AC1200). This is the best choice if you'll be getting several APs, which will probably be necessary for you because of all the concrete. If you don't have any devices that support three or four 5 GHz streams, you'll get no benefit from faster APs.

AP Pro: Faster, more expensive, and physically larger than the Lite. Has three streams each of 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz (AC1750). This is the thing to get if you have lots of 2.4 GHz only devices, as nothing else has this many 2.4 GHz streams.

NanoHD AP: The 5 GHz heavy hitter. Four 5 GHz streams with MU-MIMO, plus two 2.4 GHz streams (AC2030). Slightly more expensive than the Pro, and the same size as the Lite. Supports skins, which allow it to blend in with most common decor. If you have lots of 5 GHz devices that support 3-4 streams, this is the thing to get.

All those APs are intended for ceiling mounting. If you've got any rooms where you have an Ethernet wall jack, but can't really ceiling mount an AP, there's a perfect solution: The In-wall AP. It converts an Ethernet wall jack to an AP with two Ethernet ports on the bottom. Its speeds are equivalent to the Lite. It also comes in a Pro version, with speeds equivalent to the ceiling-mount Pro.

All these APs are powered by PoE (Power over Ethernet) so they don't need power run to them. They include a PoE injector, or you can power them with a PoE switch.

Lastly, you'll need a switch. There are quite a few options here, it depends on your budget and the number of cables you have. The cheapest option is a basic, unmanaged gigabit switch with at least enough ports for everything. These are commonly available with anywhere from from 5 ports to 24 ports. You'll need to use PoE injectors to power your APs with such a switch. The second option is to still use a large unmanaged switch for wall jacks and such, and connect it to a smaller PoE switch that'll power your APs. Prices of PoE switches increase RAPIDLY with the number of PoE ports they have, so try not to get more than you need. The third and most expensive option is a single big PoE switch that has enough ports for everything... something like this.

There's actually one more thing you need... the controller. You can install this on basically anything that has an Ethernet connection to the network, and it doesn't need to run all the time. You only need to run it for initial setup, and for firmware upgrades and configuration changes down the line. A few features, such as traffic monitoring and the Wi-Fi guest portal, require it to always be online. If you do want it to run all the time, it's best to install it on a dedicated, low-power device. The cheapest solution for this is a Raspberry Pi, but it takes some time and know-how to get it set up and running. Ubiquiti makes their own dedicated device for this as well, the Cloud Key. That's the original one, they also have a newer one with a backup battery, which prevents data corruption in a power outage.

u/Wundawuzi · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Hello! Thank you for your quick and detailed answer!

From what I've learned here and also in another (german) forum I posted this, it seems like Powerline "does the trick" but is far from being optimal. So I'll try to avoid that. MoCA seems to be a very good alternative but I cant find a way to buy it here in Austria(Germany would also work) and it also seems to be pretty expensive (lets say 3 adapters each 99$/80€ + an AP for each one).

However, the AP you posted seems to be very strong. I've read a few of the comments/reviews on Amazon and there where quiet a lot of people saying how strong the signal is and how well it works.

Some background to my "situation": The basement is where my father will live and he is not very demanding in terms of WiFi speed. Its important for him to have access but his needs are very simple (no online gaming or HD-Movie-Streaming). Ground and top floor are "my area" this is where I need very good connection. I also though about the layout of the house and appearently my dads "office" and his bedroom are right underneath my living room.

Lets for a moment overthrow all of the setup mentioned in the OP and try a different and much simpler thing:

As far as I know the Modem on the top floor gets its "Internet" (sorry if I sound dumb) from an Coax Plug. So it should be possible to just move the whole thing to a different plug on the base floor. (Is it that simple?).

If that would work I could just try to buy one of the Ubiquiti AP-AC-LITE you mentioned, connect it to the modem and place it in a relatively central position.

Since the signal output of the AP seems to be very good it might actually work well enough for my dad in the basement, while providing excellent speed for the base and top floor.

So given that it is that easy to move the modem, would that be an option? Or am I overseeing something here? Because that would be WAY cheaper and take way less effort.

u/cnliberal · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Everyone is telling you to get a gigabit switch and put all your routers into AP mode. They're forgetting one important thing. You still need a router/firewall on your incoming connection. I recommend the following:

  1. pfSense firewall/router. You have many options when it comes to pfSense. You can build a device out of an older computer. The requirements are an x64 processor that has AES-NI (just Google your CPU brand, model and AES-NI. You must have that for future versions of pfSense. Also, it'd be best to have an Intel NIC. Not RealTek or Broadcom. Intel is well supported in pfSense. Or, you could buy a new device. You could buy a new computer and build it yourself or you could buy directly from Netgate. If you don't have anyone that's good with computers you should buy from Netgate (and even if you do have someone who's "good with computers"). Try this model:

  2. Gigabit managed switch. The reason I say managed is that you never know if you'll need to create VLANs for a guest network. You can get a nice switch from eBay. Or if you get a specific Netgate device (SG-3100) it has a switch built in. If you get support on the device (which is extra, but I recommend it) you'll get assistance setting up the appliance with guest VLAN. If you just want a cheaper pfSense device you will still need a switch. Dell, HP or (my preference) Cisco. PoE is nice, but not needed.

  3. Access points. There's no other way to say this. You guys are using the wrong hardware. You should be using prosumer/enterprise level equipment. What's nice is that you don't have to spend enterprise level prices to get this equipment. I'd recommend Ubiquiti AP AC Pro access points:

    When you purchase individual APs from that link above, the PoE injector comes with it. The 5 pack does not have injectors so you'd need to buy those separately. Now depending on the size of each floor, you might need more than one AP one the floor. In WiFi, you never want to max out the transmit power. This seems like an odd thing to say. But think about it, if you're in a lecture hall, you can hear the professor easily because he's using a mic and speakers. However, if you have a question you have to speak very loudly (since you sit at the back of the room). It's possible you can't speak loudly enough for him to hear you. This is the same for wireless devices. Just because you blast your AP, doesn't mean that long distance devices have the power to talk back. This wastes your battery. This is the reason for multiple APs.

    This isn't really that bad, price wise. These devices will allow the frat to have good signal strength throughout the house. If you have more questions or would like assistance with the config, I'd be happy to help.

u/hyperactivedog · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

One thing I'm going to tell you, you're in the "danger zone" you know enough to get access to settings but have very, very little idea as to what each setting does. You know enough to be dangerous. Reading something like this would probably be useful to you - - no insult intended, we've all been there at various points in life, it's part of learning.

DHCP usually does a "good enough" job at handing out IPs for home use. It also does a "good enough" job for corporate use that you'd expect 99% of IPs handed out in a corporation to be DHCP based.

Setting a static IP will do absolutely nothing for you. The only real benefit occurs in instances where you're swapping out hardware and where you as a user are making direct references to a piece of equipment. You aren't.

Changes are you need to look into some combination of:

  1. getting a better AP/wire-less router
  2. getting a better wireless bridge (which it sounds like your "extender is in"
  3. hard-wiring.

    Some free things you could look into include:

  4. ensuring you have proper channel selection (number of channels + choosing ones which don't overlap with neighbors)
  5. positioning wireless access points/wireless-routers well (if your mother is hard-wired you might need to get a switch - at the very least MAKE SURE IT ISN'T IN A CORNER WITH STUFF OVER IT)

    As an FYI, wifi is, all else equal, usually BETTER in rural environments - there are fewer neighbors congesting the air waves.

    In an ideal world - everything is hard-wired. In a less ideal world, everything which is wireless runs on 5Ghz and wireless-AC (faster, better, more reliable than wireless-N) AND each client is within ~30ft of an AP without too many walls/floors in the way. APs can be purchased stand-alone and often do wonders, especially if you have an older router which doesn't support wireless AC (which wasn't really around until 2013ish)
u/bpgould · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Here are your options for home wifi networking:

  1. Buy a super strong wifi router and you're good to go even in a large home - as long as you don't live in a repurposed bomb shelter. An example of a "super strong" router: here
  2. Buy a normal router or your current one and add access points. An example of a "normal" router: here . An access point (AP) is not a wifi extender. You must run a cable (CAT 5E/ CAT 6) from your router to the location where you need improved wifi signal, there you plug in the AP and attach the Ethernet cable from the router. The AP simply turns a wired connection into a wireless one and broadcasts the same network as that coming from your router. An example of an AP: here .
  3. Buy a normal router or your current router and use a wifi extender(s). I wifi extender receives packets from your wireless router, ups the signal strength, and then forwards them to a nearby host. If you are having poor signal at point B and the router is at point A then put the extender directly in the middle of the 2; I have seen so many people make the mistake of putting the extender at point B, which defeats the whole purpose because it is just your host device's antenna vs the extender's.
  4. An extender/AP all in one device. An example: here
  5. A mesh wifi system. It can be difficult to distinguish a multi-AP/ multi-extender setup from a mesh system, but the main differences are that the mesh will be easier to setup and more "polished" in general. A mesh system will automatically detect the SSID (network name) from the wifi router and extend it. Want to add a signal booster? With mesh you can buy another matching unit and use WPS for a one button setup. The mesh is also smart in identifying when you move from one area to another ans switching to the closer device to server you your packets. Now, this is seen in some higher end APs and extenders such as here , but its not as seamless and usually more expensive in the long run. An example of a mesh system: here

    APs are generally more stable (UBIQUITI makes great ones) due to the wired connection. I like using APs because I can buy as I need more and set some up on different VLANs and hide SSIDs, but those are more advanced options. For most people who do not want to run cable or go with more of a permanent networking setup, the easiest and most effective solution is generally a mesh system. The TP-Link one is great as well as Google WiFi.

    EDITED: Because the bot thought I was using affiliate links...
u/CBRjack · 9 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'll try, if you have any questions or if I wasn't really clear on something, ask away and I'll try to explain it better.

A normal home network is quite simple, in order starting from your ISP's line coming into your house, you usually have a modem, a router, a switch and an access point. Most consumer routers are actually a combo router-switch-access point all in one. They provide you a few ports for wired connection and the wifi in a single convenient unit. What you can also do is split up this combo unit to be able to place each device in a better location. If you have your modem in the basement, putting the router next to it makes sense, but putting the access point there often means it will be completely unusable on the second floor. Don't be afraid, separate unit aren't really more complex, you just need to wire them together. I'll recommend a few unit throughout, but feel free to ask for a second opinion!

Personally, after witnessing the extreme difference in quality between home all-in-one routers and dedicated separate unit, I will strongly recommend you go with a separate unit setup. Ubiquiti makes super great hardware that won't cost you much more than a combo but will give you much more performance. Here are the recommended devices, I'll explain the setup right after :

  • Router : Ubiquiti Edgerouter X
  • Switch : TP-Link Gigabit switch (8 port / 16 port / 24 port)
  • Access point : Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite

    So, your provider will supply you with a modem (or you will buy your own) and plug that directly in the DSL/Cable/Fiber line that comes from outside. Then, you will plug the router in the modem. The router will allow all the devices in your home to communicate with the internet. In the router, you will plug the switch. In the switch, you can plug all the lines that are going through your house. You can also plug several switches in the router, or a switch in another switch (example : a switch in the office plugged into a line that goes to the second floor, a switch on the second floor, that will work). Also plugged in the switch : the access point. You can plug it (or them if you buy more than one) directly in the switch, or at the end of a long line that goes where you want the access point to be. For a two stories house, you might get good result by having a central AP on the first floor, or an AP on each floor, depending on construction, materials and interference.

    So now, we have the classic modem > router > switch > AP, using separate devices for greater flexibility and performance. Once it's all plugged in, time to set it up. For the router, simple, follow the wizard. For the switch, these switches are plug and play, no config needed. For the AP (or APs), install the software on your PC, follow the wizard, done! The controller software is used to configure the APs, but is not needed for the APs to work. The APs, once they get their config from the software, are completely standalone and independent, you can turn the PC off without issues.

    Hope this answers your questions, as I said, ask anything that wasn't answered and I'll try to explain it.
u/locutusofborg780 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

One fairly simple way to secure your network would be to buy a managed switch like this one and setting up VLANs to separate your network.

In a nutshell, VLANs are a way to partition your switch into different segments or "Broadcast Domains". It's like breaking your switch up into smaller switches that are not connected to each other.

Why would you want to do this?

By virtually separating your LAN, if an attacker somehow gained access to one of your devices (say the Raspberry Pi), they wouldn't be able to access your WD MyCloud or your Camera because they would be on a completely separate LAN.

Based on your network, I would create at least 6 different VLANs. Something like this:

VLAN 2 - Servers (The WD MyClouds and the Dell Tower)

VLAN 3 - Cameras

VLAN 4 - Wireless LAN

VLAN 5 - LAN (Ethernet connected PCs, Laptops, etc.)

VLAN 6 - IoT devices (The thermostat, sprinkler controller, RPis, etc)

VLAN 7 - Guest / Unsecured Wireless

VLAN 8 - Management

The Management VLAN is used to allow access to management functions of your devices like the switch.

How do the different VLANs talk to each other?

For example, how do your PCs talk to your WD MyCloud if they're on a different VLAN? Through the use of a VLAN-Aware Router!

It looks like your WRT1200AC is supported by DD-WRT and OpenWRT. It also appears that it does support VLANs. The stock Linksys firmware will not support VLANs so you would need to flash it with either OpenWRT or DD-WRT in order to use that functionality.

If you don't like the idea of flashing your WRT1200AC I would recommend replacing it with a VLAN-Capable access point like the Ubiquiti Unifi-AC-Pro (which is not bad looking either). You'll also need a VLAN-Capable Router/Firewall. You can use any Linux box with a decent Gigabit Ethernet NIC (e.g. Intel) for this task, or you can go with a purpose-built router like the Mikrotik RouterBoard hEX which has been tested to route at nearly gigabit speed.

This is a lot of info to process, if you have questions I would be happy to help! :)

u/Wadeace · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

first off, don't rent a router from your ISP. you will need to use a modem or gateway depending on the type of internet you are getting. if you are using cable or dsl i would also suggest to buy your own modem as well. it's a modern version of renting a rotary phone from the company and a racket.

you can get a router and wifi combo that is new and good for about $150 or more for faster or more advanced features.

as far as game plan for your home here is my suggestions
to start you off since you just moved in and are already renting it for now just use the provided router from to fiber provider so you can get connected and plan the rest of this build out.

depending on the layout and size of your home (cinder block construction is terrible for wifi and other rf signals) you may need multiple access points. my suggestion is to look into a brand of networking equipment called ubiquity.

they are relatively new to the market and have really shaken up the price and feature packs. set up is mainly through a web and mobile app and is very easy for a relatively new person to IT. there is also a huge community here on reddit and youtube showing off features and giving how to's.

here is my goto suggestion if you are willing to invest in an infrastructure more than a single router.

the fiber will come into your property and go through a modem and gateway provided by the isp you would then plug it into a router:

This is a smaller model that is a router and firewall combo by ubiquity, its about 110 at amazon

Then you plug the router into a switch:

This is a sort of backbone device that you would use to send the internet to other devices and for other devices to comunicate with each other. this one is a poe switch which means it can send power to some devices like access points over the one cat 5 cable. this one has 8 ports so that means 7 outboard devices can be connected to the network because one is needed for the router. they make larger ones with more ports for more devices. this model is currently 194 on amazon

you will then need access points:

these are radios that broadcast wifi to your wireless devises these connect to the switch with cat 5 cables and are best placed near where you are going to use wifi devises the average home would benefit from two or three of these one to cover the living room kitchen great room area and one to cover the bedroom hallway are and possibly one for the backyard pool area (that might be important because of your external walls). this model is currently 80 on amazon.

if you deploy this list you will also need a cloud key:

this is a devise that manages the network and stores configuration files locally. it's like a mini server. this is about 78 on amazon.

you will also need cat 5/6/7 cables of various lengths and a power strip for about 500 you can get a really great network that can cover your whole house and that can easily be upgraded incrementally as technology improves. My suggestion would be to get all this mounted in a closet somewhere and get cat5/6/7 run to all the things that you can and place the access point in the house so you get the best coverage possible for the IOT devises in your house. as your network grows and you need more wired ports you can add a switch or replace the one with a 24 or 46 port one. when wifi tech improves past ag you can just replace the access points without affecting the rest of the network.another big thing is to run cable to anything you can this will help with keeping your wifi fast since there are less devices on the wifi.

If there are two main points they would be:

  1. wire everything you can so that way the devises that need to be wireless can be faster
  2. Don't rent non-proprietary equipment from your ISP
u/BinaryGrind · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Are you deadset on PFSense? There are a number of options for really good routers that can do what your looking for for not to much if your not hard set on PFSense.

  • Option 1: Edge Router X - Really cheap at only $60 but it can easily handle routing for 100+ devices. Its software is called EdgeOS (which is based on VyOS, an opensource switch/router OS) and is super configurable and powerful. Admittedly its Analytics aren't super useful, as it doesn't really do much Deep Package Inspection (DPI) but its good enough to figure out whats going on and who is using what. Link:

  • Option 2: Unifi Security Gateway - This is like the big brother of the Edgerouter X (sorta). The OS is still based on VyOS so it super configurable. It also does the DPI you're wanting for analytics. The downside is that you need to have a Unifi Controller to make real use of that. You can either set one up yourself using a VM, Docker or you can use a Raspberry Pi. If you don't want to roll your own controller, you can pickup a Unifi Cloudkey and it will handle all of that for you

  • Option 3: Meraki - If you do the Webinars you can get a Security Gateway, Access Point, and a 8 Port switch for free. Well sort off. You might need to hound the Sales people to get one, and its possible that you might not qualify for the free hardware. Additionally, the hardware is only licensed for 3 years so you'll have to reevaluate what you want to do when the license is up.

    If your dead set on using PFSense then I would recommend that you buy a Zotac Zbox CI323/CI325 Nano computer. It has dual NICs and the CPU supports AES-NI which will be required in furture PFSense versions. I have one myself that I used with well over a 100+ VMs/devices without any issue. Only stopped using it because I got the free Meraki gear. They go for about $150 on Amazon but they are barebones so you need to add RAM and storage to get everything going.

    Shameless plug: As I said I have a Zotac Zbox CI323 Nano, and I'm selling it (again because I got free meraki gear) for only $125 with RAM and Storage. You can look at it here:
u/mcribgaming · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>Plus it all seems inefficient since I already have the LAN throughout the house.

If you already have Ethernet pulled to places all over the house, then wired Access Points is the obvious and correct answer.

Ubiquiti is the king of reliable Access Points. But switching to Ubiquiti requires a bit more knowledge than your typical wireless router / repeater system, so if you choose this, you'll have to do a bit of learning too.

For 900 sqft on two floors, you can likely get away with just one Access Point mounted on the First Floor in the Center. That would easily cover the floor, plus very likely cover the floors above and below it too. A Ubiquiti nanoHD is my go-to recommendation lately, but if you are trying to save some money, an AC-LITE is fine.



AC Lite:

Since you already have Ethernet presumably at ground level, you can also consider the Ubiquiti In-Wall units as well. These units provide you Wireless Access Points PLUS they give you two Ethernet ports at ground level. If you can get your gamer and game machines plugged into Ethernet instead of wireless, you'll have the ideal setup (streaming and other things are fine on wireless).

So maybe 1 ceiling mounted AP in the middle of the first floor, one in wall where the gamer is (for Ethernet ports as well as supplemental WiFi on the second floor), and maybe one In-Wall in the basement if needed (good chance it won't be).


If you do get 2-3 Ubiquiti APs, you'll probably want a PoE switch to power them all. This is another expense, unfortunately, but makes installation much cleaner.

>Based on what I've read (and experienced before) one kungfu wireless router isn't likely to provide adequate coverage throughout the house.

If you didn't want to go the Ubiquiti route, your house is actually a pretty good candidate for an Asus or Netgear, since it's 900sf stacked on top of each other. These consumer routers are pretty good these days. Unless your house is all brick and metal, I don't see why it wouldn't cover it.

u/navy2x · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The best thing to do is separate everything out so you can future proof your setup. What if down the line you want to extend your wifi or need more wired ports? When you separate everything out (security gateway/firewall, switch and wifi access points) its much easier to upgrade and troubleshoot. Your typical consumer grade all in one routers have all three of those things in one package and none of them are particularly great.

Ubiquiti is the current leader at this for the home user. They have SOHO grade equipment (small office home office) which is basically enterprise grade equipment but at consumer grade prices.

If I were you, here's what I'd do:
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) - this will be the brains of your system and allow port forwarding, QoS, deep packet inspection, etc.

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) - this gives you 8 ports, all of which can be enabled for power over ethernet which can easily power your security cameras and access points. If you don't need this then you can get the cheaper non-PoE switch Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) - This is a great access point to give you fast wifi at a great range. This plugs directly into your switch via ethernet cable. If you need to extend you wifi then you can get a second one and plug it in. These can be powered by PoE which is really nice.

Total cost: $461

I guarantee you would end up spending more upgrading an all in one router over the next few years. This will easily last you 10+ years if not more and be enterprise grade equipment.

u/0110010001100010 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Not all-inclusive, still need some physical cables and such, but hopefully this is a starting point:

16-port gig switch: Probably overkill but a few more ports doesn't cost all THAT much more and this leaves you plenty of room for expansion. Also managed so can setup VLANs, QoS, whatever.

Router: These are solid for home and small business use. Config can be a little tricky if you are using any of the advanced features but plenty of throughput (1 million pps). Also supports VLANs if you want to spin up a guest wifi later.

Wireless AP: This supports multiple SSIDs on different VLANs and offers really solid performance for not a ton of money. From the physical space you listed below I'm thinking one should me more than enough.

Cable modem: I know you said this wasn't finalized but thought I would toss it in anyway. Don't skimp here, a low-end modem will really limit throughput and can crash under heavy-load. Whatever you go with make sure it's on your ISPs compatibility list! They may not support it if not.

That should put a total around $512 USD or so JUST FOR HARDWARE. Keep in mind this is a pretty basic setup but should serve as a starting point. You'll still need the physical cabling and someone able to set it all up. As mentioned earlier also this is only MY BEST GUESS as to what you will need. Please don't take this as your bible or anything like that. :)

I know I mentioned it before but I really don't mind helping set things up if needed. I'm not going to be your "call at 3AM tech guy" but if you need a bit here and there I can try to assist. :) Let me know if you have any questions or thoughts on the build. Cheers!

EDIT: Something else to keep in mind that's not really network related is backups. YOU NEED THIS. Even if you go with a cloud service like carbonite or whatever, you need to make sure the PCs have regular backups. You WILL have a hard drive die and need to pull a backup from somewhere.

u/not12listen · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

At this moment, WPA3 shouldn't be the primary concern. It was only certified back in June of this year.

In order for WPA3 to work in any environment, your broadcasting device (wireless router, wireless access point, etc) AND your client device (phone, tablet, laptop, etc) must both support it.

So, if you have current devices that only support WPA2, getting a WPA3 wireless router will have no benefit at current. If you do get a WPA3 wireless router, you'll be set for the time when you do replace your existing wireless devices with WPA3 compliant devices.


In regards to improving your wireless experience (leaving WPA3 out of the topic for the moment), it'd be better to focus on a few other details.

  1. How many people within what approximate square footage space?

  2. How many people per room?

  3. How many rooms require wireless coverage? (saying ALL is not helpful, detailing the total number of rooms is)

  4. Does every device support 5GHz?


    My basic recommendation is as such.

    Determine which devices DO and DO NOT support 5GHz. Determine how many rooms are critical for wireless coverage. Purchase a wireless access point (or multiple - depending on square footage coverage requirements) that are DFS compliant.

    If you cannot find specifics on your device, whether is supports 2.4GHz or 5GHz - you can adjust/alter your current wireless settings. Most wireless broadcasting devices should allow you to name your 2.4GHz and your 5GHz networks (SSID) separately. Do so. As example, name your 2.4GHz network something like 'Home - Legacy' and your 5GHz network 'Home'.

    Then have each device 'search/look' for the available wireless networks. If they can only see 'Home - Legacy' and NOT 'Home' - then you are holding a device that can only use 2.4GHz.

    Document what each device CAN and CANNOT see.

    If every device supports 5GHz, great! You can and should disable 2.4GHz - and never use it! In order to determine if & how many wireless access points you'll need, you will need to do some research and intelligent planning.

    Use the same device for this test.

    Go to the room where your wireless router is. Check how many bars of signal you have. Document it. Go to the next room and repeat this process for each room.

    Most devices will show 4 or 5 bars in regards to signal. If they do not, then it is likely a percentage. 2 of 4 bars is the minimum you want (50%), and 3 of 5 bars is the minimum you want (60%).

    That will give you your baseline per your current coverage area. Based upon that, you will begin to formulate a plan for how many additional wireless broadcasting devices you will need.

    I tend to go with Ubiquiti wireless access points. The AC Lite is a good entry level device. You'll want to leverage the DFS channels too, as it will help you get better wireless speed.

    Give that a shot. If you have any questions, please ask.
u/Xertez · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The following are the tools I used to add a new cable line for MoCA to an old room on my land:




(optional) MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking - This goes onto the incoming COAX Cable. Sometimes your provider does use the same frequency as the MoCA signal to manage with its devices. So This makes sure that your signal is safe to use, and doesn't interfere with your providers own management. This is optional because it depends on your layout. If you live in an apartment complex or area with multiple houses connected (wall to wall) , I HIGHLY recommend you purchase this to prevent your neighbors from receiving and possibly connecting to your network. You should connect this as follows: |Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter|


2-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA - This allowed me to split my incoming cable so that I can reuse the same line leading to the outside of my house. You can also use it if all your lines are internal, but I digress. It allows you to split and connect multiple rooms (while being safe for MoCA signals). Ideally it goes: | Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > Every room you want connected (including router) |



MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 - This is what you use to connect both ( or more) ends of the MoCA network. At the end of it all, this is how your network should look:

The internet comes into your house via | Incoming Coax > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > COAX Cable leading to MoCA Adapter > MoCA Adapter > Modem > Router (WAN port). |


At this point your router is connected to the internet. The connection to the rest of your house is a follows: | Router via LAN port > MoCA Adapter that's connecting to your Modem > MoCA signal travels down your internet Coax > returns to the MoCA Cable Splitter > Coax split from cable splitter, leading to other section of house > MoCA Adapter > Device or switch |


(optional) QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coax Cable - I needed to order cable because the room I connected had no coax leading to it. If you need to buy cable, make sure you measure the distance away from the splitter, BASED ON the path you plan to lay the COAX cable on. Then add a few feet "just in case". If you don't need to run new cable, this is a non issue, and can be safely not purchased. Also, this particular cable was not pre-terminated, so I had to terminate and crimp the ends myself which may not be for everyone. Pre-made cables are available, albeit a bit more expensive.


(optional) Waterproof Connectors Crimping Tool - This is the tool I used to crimp my COAX cable. If you don't need to terminate your own cables, you don't need to buy this tool.


(optional) Rotary Drill Bit - I only needed this because I had to drill in from the outside (old house). You may also need to use this if you have to add a new hole in your wall, for a brand new coax connection. Needless to say, this is optional.


(optional) Coaxial Wall Plate - I used this to add the coax cable to my wall. It makes it look nice but isn't "technically" necessary. Use it as you see fit.


(optional) 3ft BLACK QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coaxial Cable - This connects the coax wall plate to the branched off network (and devices) Use as you see fit.




If you have any questions, let me know. all the items I listed above can be swapped out for cheaper or more locally accessible items at will. Just be sure yo do your research first.

u/rudekoffenris · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Damn I didn't see the second and third pictures duh! So if you use that panel I showed you from amazon (or one like it, there's a lot of wires there) this may be a better choice.

This panel will work with cat5 or cat6, I can't tell what type of wiring you have there but you'll need that

You'll also need some way to mount it on the wall, I used one of these:

Now with the patch panel, you don't need to put ends on the wire. You use a punch down tool and they go into little clip type things. It makes more sense if you look at the pictures. Here is a punch down tool:

you're gonna need some patch cables to run from the patch panel to a switch. You're also gonna need a switch down there to connect all the ethernet cables together.

To mount the switch, you're gonna need a rack mount (to look the nicest, and a 19" rack switch).

A nice mount I used is this:

and then a switch, something like this (which I picked more or less at random) will do the job quite well. It's a gigabit unamanaged switch. You can spend a lot more if you want to, but this will probably do the job.

So from there, you need a cable from switch to that box in the first picture with the ethernet ports on the back.

That will give you wired internet in the whole house. Adding access points from there is trivial.

I know it's a lot of information, feel free to ask anything.

Edit: That verizon box in picture 3 looks like it might be more than just a modem, it might be a modem/router. If that's the case you can plug that into the switch. But if it's just a modem, that won't work even tho the ethernet port will physically connect. The best way to tell is that if it only has one ethernet port, then it's just a modem, if it has more than 1 then it's a modem/router.

u/michrech · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If I were in your shoes, and strong wireless is desirable in every corner of the house, I'd put a router on one end and an AP (or router in AP mode) on the other end of the house, connected via ethernet or MoCA (via TV cable, if the house is wired for it. Even if it's not, it's stupidly simple to run an RG6 cable around the outside of the house, assuming you aren't renting).

I've done essentially this in my own house (which is half the size of yours, and square). I didn't need the wireless coverage for inside the house, but for outside when I'm doing yard work. Since I use Google Fi for my cellular service, I want to minimize my data usage. Having strong WiFi outside lets me listen to Pandora (using a pair of BT headphones so I don't have dangling wires to get caught in things) without using up my data.

The specific parts I'm using are:

Primary router : Netgear WNDR3700v4
Secondary router (in AP mode) : TP-Link WR1043ND V2.1

I suspect both of these items are no longer available. I've read that the TP-Link Archer line (C7 or C9) are both excellent options, and both should support being configured as an AP, so you could use one for your primary router and the other to help provide stronger WiFi throughout your house. You can buy two C7's, two C9's, or one of each -- it doesn't matter -- either of them should handle the load you've outlined. It helps that they have thousands of very good reviews for you to read through. :)

u/RealityMan_ · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.

The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):

I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping. Patch cables are super cheap, are certified for the speed, and in most cases save you time and money vs crimping your own.

Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.

Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE

u/AdversarialPossum42 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yeah I'd put money on that being the source of your problem. The 2.4GHz spectrum is already crowded with so many things: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, wireless devices like keyboards, mice, game controllers, etc. Add an entire household of devices and the poor network is going to be crying for mercy.

So you have a few choices going forward:

  • There might already be a separate 5GHz network available. Do you see anything like YourNetworkName-5G?
  • Switch the WOW gateway to 5 GHz, if it's even supported by the device. WOW tech support might be able help with this. If you can find the model number on the device, I might be able to dig up the directions.
  • Get your own router. Put the gateway into "passthrough" mode and turn off its Wi-Fi, the use your router for 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Most new devices are dual-band. I like this Netgear R6700.
  • If you want a completely hands-off approach, at the cost $14.99/month, call up WOW and have them switch you over to their Whole-Home WiFi, which uses Eero devices, which are pretty good from what I hear.
  • Combine the last two options and buy your own Eero devices. Given the cost of WOW's whole-home service, this will pay for itself in about two years. ($393.30 / $14.99/mo = ~26 months)

    Edit: typos
u/joebobcooter · 11 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.

If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;

  1. Some sort of cable tester - everyone has their favorite - look for one that can show you whether all the pairs are setup properly -

    If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
  2. a standard punch-down panel - something like this -
  3. A punch-down tool - either a cheap one ( or one that is a little more robust (

    There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this -

    If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.

    Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.

    Holler back if you need more info.
u/pocketknifeMT · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If you are on TWC, what modem are you using currently? Or is it a gateway provided by TWC?

I basically always recommend the SB61XX- series of modems. Not their fancy gateway versions.

the SB6121 is End of Life now, so you have either the SB6141, SB6183 or the SB6190, if you are buying new. If you have one of these or another passable modem, you can continue to use that. The difference between them is the upper limit of service speed. They are all basically the same product besides this difference.

For a router, I typically go with a Mikrotik RB3011, but that is going to require some networking know-how. Since you are here asking questions, it's definitely not your speed.

I would suggest the Ubiquiti Security Gateway, for you. I have personally never used one, since I know my way around Mikrotik, but I hear good things, and I have like any other hardware they make.

For your Wireless, I suggest the Ubiquiti Unifi AC Pro APs. You can have as few as one, but can scale it later if you want.

Also, if you own the home and plan on sticking around for any amount of time, you might consider actually building a network shelf by the Cable/telco demarc (usually by the power panel in the basement by most modern building codes)

Something like so.

Then you can mount your networking equipment out of the way, in the ideal location to put the modem. This sort of setup, combined with structured wiring would be the ideal home network setup.

u/PlaidStallion · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So it looks like there are two active coax connections from the corner where the modem is to the open space in the living room (and the other rooms as well. One is for TV and one for telephone, they tell me. Can you recommend some good MoCA adapters considering price to quality ratio and then what some decent options for APs might be? Are both of the cables in the wall usable with the MoCA adapters? Thanks for the suggestion.

Edit: I saw it mentioned here yesterday and am looking at Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-LITE WLAN access point right now. Seems commercial grade and maybe a bit of overkill but it's not prohibitively expensive. I won't be able to ceiling mount it though so I am not sure if something like this is the best option. Would another configurable router along the lines of the AC68U be good to make an access point with?

The MoCA adapters seem to be surprisingly expensive though ...

Edit2: So it looks like what might be my cheapest viable option to start is buying a pair of MoCA adapters and then use my AC68U as a wired access point set up in the living room (main open space) using my ISP modem/router as the gateway. It seems I could either leave the wireless access from the ISP modem on or turn it off. From what I am reading, having the second access point with redundant SSID and password information should allow for hand-off from one device to another?

u/crackills · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

>Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.

Same guts? I picked the plastic... cus Im cheap but mostly because I think the front ports look sloppy in a HT cabinet or on a desk.

>The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):

Thanks! swapped for monoprice

>I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping.

ok then, I really wasn't looking forward to crimping a dozen cable but I felt like Ill have so much cat6 it would be a waste not to make my own.

>Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.

So what your saying is most of these keytones labeled 110 will except a krohn style punch? Id like minimize my cost and the 110/66 punch I linked is basically in my hands, its still worth going with this other tool?

So should I bother with the crimper/rj45 ends at all? Just buy a pack of 3ft patch cables and be done with it?

>Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE

nice rack (giggity)

u/vcWfDrlqrAArebp7 · -1 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You're right. I've never actually used an adapter, as I've always just had PoE switches available. It's nice working for a company with good available resources and funding for dev/prod upgrades often. Makes more sense to put the injector on the switch side. Still, makes no sense to use them over a PoE switch, though.

Why are you assuming I'm using Ubiquiti throughout the whole network? I have an ER-X, that's my only Ubiquiti product at home. I see tons of people recommend other brands, for instance like a TP-Link AC1750 as a decent cheaper alternative to Ubiquiti APs. And look, it doesn't ship with a PoE adapter!! Dang! Only ~$80, instead of ~$130 for a UAP-AC-PRO (Which on Amazon it says it doesn't come with a PoE adapter either! ). So here's an one adapter for $20 but wait, it can only push 15W! My Aruba APs can draw up to 25W. So less flexible, gotta get adapters for every AP, gotta power them near the switch, what a hassle.

It'd almost be awesome if there are affordable PoE switches available! Oh, look at this 8-port Gigabit PoE Managed switch for only ~$65! whereas a Unifi Switch 8 PoE is ~$110 Plus, you'll probably need the cloudkey if you're gonna use UAPs, so there's another $80. And might as well throw in a USG while you're at it for another $120, since OP needs a router anyways.

So, we could do your Ubiquiti stack:

  • UAP-AC-PRO - $130
  • PoE Injector - $20
  • USG - $130
  • Cloudkey - $80
  • Still will likely need some switch, unless OP has one already. USG doesn't have enough ports. Could get a good ole' Netgear GS108 for $50, only $15 cheaper than the TP-Link PoE version above, which if you're paying $20 to get an injector (and more if you need multiple injectors) that doesn't make much sense does it?

    And we'd see that setting up your Ubiquiti network will cost somewhere around $400.

    If we do the other brands:

  • TP-Link 1750 - $80
  • TP-Link SG108PE - $65
  • We can use an ER-X as our gateway since it's relatively cheap - $60

    Wow, look how much simpler that is! And it only cost around $205!

    So, remind me again in which section it's cheaper to use the PoE injectors? OP (likely) needs a switch anyways. PoE switch is $15 more expensive than non. But you're paying $20 for one injector anyways (PoE switch is like getting (Edit: 4, not 8) injectors for only $15). Did I miss anything here?
u/PracticalHerring · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Looking at the spec sheet for the router, it support 802.11b/g/n in both , just not ac (as you noted). Is it a Titanium 24 or 48? If it's the 48, it also supports dual-band operation. In this case, a dual-band booster/extender may help, but remember that it'd be using your current wireless network to send its data. These devices are good for extending coverage to uncovered or poorly covered areas, not increasing wireless performance in an already covered area.

Anyways, the company is right in that getting a dual-band 802.11ac wireless access point would indeed improve your wireless performance. The one they recommended isn't a bad pick. It's not just an access point (which is all you need), but also a router and switch. For about the same cost, you could get a dedicated access point that will probably perform better than the Archer C7. The community around here is generally fans of Ubiquiti equipment like this $80 USD access point. Keep in mind it will probably require a bit more work and research than the Archer to set up.

u/annihilatedremedy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So according to that picture, if they wired it according to the color coding, it's 568A, so if you were to wire it up yourself, make sure the OnQ side is 568A as well to save yourself 50% of the work. But all depends if they did the blue, orange, green, brown pairs accordingly, which I'd assume they would to make their life easier.

If you were to get an 8 port Cat5E patch panel, you're going to need a punchdown tool in order to get the wires hooked up to said patch panel. It isn't hard by any means, and there are tons of videos on Youtube about terminating ethernet cables into rj45 jacks as well as onto patch panels. It isn't rocket science by any means, and depending on your comfort level and if you want to buy what you'd need (watch youtube videos first, maybe you'll find terminating rj45's directly to plug into your switch to be your cup of tea), that might be a MUCH cheaper route than getting someone out there to do it. Maybe you have a friend that can assist, if they are into networking.

But absolutely, Cat5E is Cat5E, be it used for POTS (telephone) or home networking, it's the same media, just how it's terminated on both ends is what matters.

Here is an example of an 8 port Cat5E patch panel. It has color codings for 568A and 568B (in your pic above, 568A per the wall plate, if wired correctly):

Punch Down Tool w/ cutter (be careful when using that you pay attention which end the blade is so you don't cut the wrong side of the punch!):

This is just to hopefully give you an idea of what to search on Youtube for information. Glad to help, just research and research before tackling it yourself, but this isn't something that is going to be super difficult, but also don't want to see someone charge you $500 to do this job!

Good luck, and it's always fun to learn a new skill!

u/xplusyequalsz · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have one of these access points and it covers my 2000sqft house. My suggestion would be to keep your router, but don't use the wifi from it, use the ubiquiti for your wireless. If you can place it centrally in the apartment that would be best, or as close to where the wireless devices will mainly be as you can get. You'll have to run an ethernet cable to it from your router, so that's something to keep in mind. It has dual band, but the 5GHz may not go through walls very well, and 2.4GHz is going to be shit in an apartment as well, so that's where u/washu_k may have a better option with the nanostations.

Ideally, if you can figure out a way to run cables from your router (or a switch) to the PC's, that would be the best for gaming. I know you said you can't run it down the hall on the floor, but what about mounting it to the walls or drilling holes? They're easy to patch up when you leave, and the staples leave such tiny holes they're barely noticeable. When I lived in an apartment years ago, I ran a cable across my entire apartment, and if your walls are white and you use a white cable and white staples it's not annoying to see.

u/samwheat90 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First, don't go by the antenna bars, they aren't 100% accurate. Download a speed test app, and test the speed strength when you're in your room compared to being next to the router.

I can't imagine losing that much signal strength from being down the hall. You can try moving your router closer to the middle part of your place.

Your current router isn't the latest and greatest, but it is dual band, so I would definitely setup the 5ghz network as well. 5ghz is stronger and usually has less traffic on the frequency, but it doesn't do well with distance. If you have newer phones (iPhone 5 and better), they should have an antenna for 5ghz and might improve your speed. You can easily google if your devices are compatible. Most should now be.

If that doesn't work you can look into getting a MoCa or a Powerline adapter. Don't get a wifi extender, those are crap. Also, I wouldn't bother with any new "mesh network".

If you really need to strengthen your wifi signal, it's always the best bet to run an ethernet cable and setup an Access Point (AP). This is usually the least preferred option for most people because they don't want a cable running down their hallway, or don't want to deal with the hassle of running it through the walls.

u/GoingOffRoading · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This! Sort of...

For one, you will need a cable modem:

  • $45 NETGEAR CM400-1AZNAS Cable Modem 8x4 Bonded Channels
  • $90 NETEAR CM600-100NAS Cable Model 24x8 Bonded Channels
  • $100 NETEAR CM700 Cable Modem 32x8 Bonded Channels

    Why multiple options and price-points?

    In a nutshell, download and upload bonded channels supports how much up and down bandwidth your cable modem would have. 8 (8 download) x4 (4 upload) theoretically supports 340 Mbps download and whatever upload speed. My current 2x2 supports 125+ Mbps download.

    Why get something beefier? You will get slightly better performance if each bonded channel isn't operating near it's ceiling. With Comcast, they have 16 and 24 download channels in most markets so that will help with your overall connection. Also having 24 or 32 download channels will help you break through speed barriers if Comcast offers faster connection speeds in the future.

    Personal Note: I pay for 100/10 from Comcast and bought the $90 NETEAR CM600-100NAS Cable Model 24x8 Bonded Channels for my new home. While the theoretical download speed from the modem far out paces what I will get from Comcast, the new modem will take full advantage of the 24 bonded download channels in my area.

    Then you will need a router. With Ubiquiti, you can really go with one of two router options:

  • ~$50 Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X
  • ~$100 Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway 9USG

    There's a lot of YouTube videos that will explain the differences between each router. The short version is that they use the same hardware and have all of the same features available if enabled over command line but:

  • The EdgeRouter X has more features available in it's existing UI, CAN be powered by POE and is less prone to crashing when making changes over CLI. The Edgerouter also has a built in switch (if you want) and POE passthrough so you can do: Cable Modem -> POE Power Injector -> EdgeRouter -> Ubiquiti Access Point (more on this shortly)
  • The USG has fewer features in the UI than the Edgerotuer, CAN NOT be powered by POE and is more prone to crashing when making changes over CLI. What the USG does have is full integration into the Unifi family of products which means you can manage the router over the cloud along with any other Unifi product like your access points (APs... We'll get to them in a minute).

    Personal Note: I bought the EdgeRouter X because the price point is so good. This thing EASILY out performs my Linksys WRT 1900 AC or any other Linksys, Asus, etc. routers that I have ever owned. With that said, I will never fully leverage all of the controls in the UI and I wish I had gone with the USG as it integrates with the Unifi cloud stuff. I will eventually switch to a Unifi router.

    Then you will need an Access Point (AP) to create an access point for your devices:

  • $75 Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-Lite Lite
  • $100 Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-LR Long Range
  • $130 Ubiquiti Unifi UPA-AC-Pro Pro

    If you get the EdgeRouter X, get a UAP-AC-Lite. They both operate off of 24v so you can do Cable Modem -> 24v POE power injector (comes with the UAP-AC-Lite) -> EdgeRouter X -> UAP-AC-Lite. This is what I have now.

    You can upgrade to the UAP-AC-LR which has the longest range of all of the Ubiquiti APs or the UAP-AC-LR because of it's 3x3 MIMO which gives it a higher input/output than the rest of the Ubiquiti 2x2 MIMO. The latter two devices use 48v POE injectors.

    Personal Note: I'm using two UAP-AC-Lites in my current two story home and will transition to four in my new three story home. Even at the cheapest price point, these far out perform the other routers and access points that I have ever owned.
u/macbalance · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have one of these:

Which connects to one of these:

The Switch connect to the FiOS Gateway. I wouldn't mind adding a second (or even 3rd) AP, but money is always an issue. The Switch and the other Gateway interaces have several other devices on it:

  • 2 Desktops (One is the 'server' I mentioned)
  • Home NAS
  • Work Special Access Point
  • 'Lab' Router

    The AP has a pass-through which connects to a no-name switch (that I need to replace) that provides connectivity to the entertainment center stuff (AppleTV, TiVo, game consoles, etc.)

    I'm pretty minimal by many people's standards. If I move I'd like to switch to using one of Ubiquiti's USG Firewall/routers and a dedicated controller so I can do wireless guest access better.
u/deebeeoh · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Uhm, none of the above? Yeah none of the above. It looks like you are looking to spend around $200-230 for your networking gear, which is fine, we can work with that!

  • Router: Ubiquiti Edgerouter X normally $50 but appears to be $60 right now. Get fucked I guess.
  • Switch: TP-Link switch $25
  • Access Point: Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-Pro $130

    Total is around $210

    Now here is the thing with this setup. You will mount your access point on the ceiling as close to the center of your home as you can. It will give you much better coverage than the netgear setups, as well as a far more mature and stable access point. If in the future you decide you need better coverage still you can just buy a second one and hook it up, make sure to wire it back into the switch as well. The access point comes with a PoE injector so you only need to run a single line to it.

    You are buying gear for your business, buy business grade gear :) Especially because it costs you the same anyway.

u/dotcomdock · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Nice place you got there!

First of all of all I would suggest getting a rack mount given that you have hard wiring through the house.

These would be the things you need;

-Rack mount

This is what holds all of your components in a rack type manner.

-Patch panel

This is what will allow you to interface with the hard wiring in your home. It’s essentially a Ethernet jack on your rack allowing you to activate and deactivate certain ports.

-A network switch of some sort (maby ubiquiti)

This is what will give you more ports for all of your wired devices, patch panel and WAPs. I recommend ubiquiti switches because they are high quality but you can start off small (they are a bit pricey)


This is a special kind of power strip that is especially made for this kind of setup.

-Patch cabling

These are the Ethernet cables that will connect all the different kinds of ports on your devices.

-Access point for every floor.

These are what will provide WiFi to your house because the USG doesn’t have wireless.

-Router (USG)

USG stands for Ubiquiti Security Gateway, this is a firewall built in to your network, and a router. I highly recommend this one.

-And I would recommend going for a gigabit plan.

The gigabit plan is just so much better. It’s faster and it’s reliable.

Now the setup I recommended is a bit overkill for your current setup but given it is fully upgradable it wold be good.

DM me if you have any questions.

u/mercenary_sysadmin · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> I'm curious. What exactly is inferior in performance about having multiple Archer C7s?

To be fair, I specifically said:

> I'd definitely bet on a pack of UAPs over a single Archer C7.

Emphasis added in the quote.

With that said, though, let's answer your question: why would a pack of UAPs be superior to a pack of Archer C7s?

First off, I'm not sure exactly how well a pack of C7s would assist stubborn client devices with roaming (as the UAPs certainly do). Frankly that's a bit of a sticky topic as not all clients support AP-based roaming handoff protocols, and even a lot of the APs themselves don't bother with it and do proprietary management involving kicking stubborn clients from the BSSID of sub-optimal APs directly, forcing them to seek a different BSSID (and hopefully this time choosing a better one).

Moving on from what roaming assistance you might or might not get - or need, depending on your client, which very well might already be perfectly competent at figuring that sort of thing out for itself unassisted - UAPs aren't terribly expensive. An Archer C7 is about $90. A UAP-AC Lite is actually less money, at $80... and it supports PoE, comes with a PoE injector included in the cost, has vastly superior mounting options, has a unified controller interface, good god, I could go on and on.

The Archer C7 has somewhat better range than a UAP AC Lite, but not enough better to justify giving up all that and an extra $10 per unit. Hands down, if you're doing multiple APs, the UAP is a better option than a bunch of C7s.

u/richiemoe86 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

• My modem is out of date, but i have an ARRIS SURFboard with DOCSIS 2.* or 3.0 and comcast said it is out of date, and that i can't update the firmware. So i need to have them refresh my signal and reboot the modem every 1-3 months now... I think DOCSIS 3.1 might be the one you want to go with? Don't quote me though!!! haha

• I purchased the TP-Link 1900 and it has worked flawlessly!! Steaming to my phone, my wife's tablet, my mother-in-law's phone, a bedroom tv, main living room tv and my neighbors across the street that hypothetically have a wife extender and my old roku 2 box. My main network is hidden, the guest network 2.4 and 5 is showing. And a sub guest network at my neighbors with 2.4 only. Plus multiple users on the network when at the neighbors pool. No 4k streaming though, only 1080p.

I have comcast running into my basement and into a modem, then i have an ethernet cable running up into the living room and into the router. Then from the router and back down into an unmanned switch. From there, i have ethernet cable ran to every room of the house, but i still need to hook it up....

This is the one I have, and LOVE it (i could only find the refurb link on amazon, but same thing):

This appears to be a newer version, but i believe the one i have above an amplified antennas:

This one is newer as well and looks more like the one you posted, but almost half the price:

u/thelegendofme · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So the adapters I've found are apparently Moca 1.0. Where is a good place to get moca 2.0? Or do I not need it for my speeds?I pretty much just need 2 basic adapters, no range extension or anything.

Edit: Apparently the adapters I've found are moca 1.1. They are [] (here). I'm just worried it isn't what I want, but the reviews are great and it seems like it'd be perfect for my apartment. Any input would be appreciated.

u/CbcITGuy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

doubt it. phones can plug into cat5 jacks. they're backwards compatible so to speak. you can't run internet on them, but you can run voice. it's rapidly becoming the standard to simply use cat5 jacks everywhere. can you unscrew one and take a picture? i would be willing to bet all of your wires are punched down to those 2splitters and bridged together. You could easily replace them with a couple of these and use some of these to connect to one of these and rewire the jacks in using RJ 45 T568-b standard or follow this video a quick toolkit will cost about 20-35 and since you've already got the wiring and parts should be pretty cheap. make sure that if you're no longer using the landline to pull the wire from the box to the Network interface for the phones. (unless it's DSL). may want to add a shelf underneath the media panel, although i've seen some creative people tuck a shitload of stuff into those media panels and it look quite nice. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions.

Edit: you can use one of these to quickly and easily trace out if all of those wires end in that cabinet or if some of them ARE going somewhere else. If they are I would check attic areas and other panels around the house. POSSIBLY they terminate outside, but doubt it since your Network interface box is in the basement.

u/wanderingbilby · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yay learning!

So the most common internet thing in a normal home is a wireless router. This combines three networking devices:

  • Router / firewall - this handles traffic going in and out of the local network, assigning addresses, etc.
  • Ethernet switch - this is what lets you plug multiple wired computers to the network.
  • Wireless Access Point (WAP or AP) - this lets you connect wireless devices to the network.

    In your case, what you'll do is run a network connection from the router's ethernet switch to a stand-alone AP. This is basically another point where computers can make the transition from the the wireless "WiFi" to the wired network. You don't need the Router or ethernet switch part of it because your neighbor is handling the internet bit (with the router) and you're only plugging in one thing (the AP). If you want to plug in more than one wired thing, you could put an ethernet switch at your end and plug in things that way, too.

    As far as what AP to buy, there are about as many brands and styles as you can imagine. On the cheap end are models like this TP-Link Wireless N for $40 or so. It will work and for a few devices in an area where there isn't a lot of competition it will work okay.

    I would suggest spending a bit more. Around $90 will net you a Ubiquiti AP AC Lite which gives you much better data density and a nice easy control and configuration scheme. For $150 the Pro Version gets you a better top speed and ability to more reliably handle more users. Open-Mesh offers a similar series of access points at a similar price point.

    Spending more money now gets you a faster, more reliable connection and you can just unplug it and take it with you when you move or your situation changes. Access points don't expire and generally don't break, so it's worth it to throw down a little more money if you can.
u/IphtashuFitz · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks for the suggestion. I've never heard of them before, but after a little reading up on them I'm pretty impressed. Do you have any experience with their access points? Most of the Amazon reviews seem pretty good, but the poor reviews seem to indicate some issues with AP's dying just out of warranty & other customer support issues with the company...

u/schoolpaddled · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This TP Link model beats the Ubiquiti in testing:

>The first thing I noticed about the EAP-225 was how complete, functional, and usable its standalone web interface is. I'm most familiar with Ubiquiti's UAP line—and with those, you really need to set up their Unifi controller to access more than a tiny fraction of the functionality of the access points. Not so with the EAP-225. Logging into a single EAP's web UI presents you with everything from multiple SSIDs to VLANs (with rudimentary QoS!) to working captive portal—all with no controller required. All the functionality was well laid-out and easy to find, and the UI was quite responsive.

>The EAP-225 did a flawless job on 2.4 GHz. Spoiler alert, this is as good as it gets for this round-up; do not expect to find a better set of 2.4 GHz curves for any other kit.

> Its 5 GHz maximum throughput scores were middling, roughly on par with Ubiquiti's UAP-AC-Lite. Environments that expect to actively use the 2.4 GHz band as well as 5 GHz would have a tough time finding a better-suited AP.

Several AC lite versions on amazon:

u/fatcIemenza · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yup, I'm definitely planning to game on ethernet as I do now.

That modem looks pretty good. Fair price and not time-limited for Cyber Monday like the Netgear stuff I was looking at.

I might as well ask, are you familiar with this router at all? TP Link AC1750 Archer A7. Also a fair price and not a limited time offer. I've seen it on a couple lists for great cost-performance balance.

u/pwnster1357 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That is so weird, last night that link was taking me to the page for the Archer A7 (which also has a $10 coupon to clip)... I don't know if maybe I clicked something else while I was tired, but I could have sworn the link was taking me there, but now it takes me to the C7, haha.. My bad.


I guess the question then, is should I get the A7 or the C7? The A7 is cheaper, and from I read online, the only difference is the smart functionality with Alexa (though I don't use Alexa) would that hinder the router at all having that additional software? Would it be worth it since it's already $20 cheaper AND has a clippable $10 coupon?


As for the router and modem you listed, I wasn't saying what you suggested would cause a bottleneck, I just meant if I were to upgrade one or the other, which should I upgrade without causing a bottleneck? Would the AC1900 give better range or work any better with the smart home devices? My last network would get bogged down by smart home devices due to all the chatter on the network and Google mentioned some kind of bug of "built up packets" that stemmed from the devices always listening to each other.


Edit: Just woke up and I'm forgetting words

u/washu_k · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> Would this be a better option for POE?

Yes, that is a good option if you are going to have a few PoE cameras as well as APs.

> Is this what you mean for the router



> If I buy two of these and the router above would it give me full wifi now until I have the opportunity to run the wire.


At least one AP must be wired. You can run the APs in wireless uplink mode if you need coverage but that is very slow compared to wired and much slower than a good mesh system like Orbi. If you are going to wire soon it is ok but it is not a good long term option.

> Do I need a cloud key for the APs or just the Switch?

You don't need the cloud key for anything. The cloud key is just a option to run the controller software. You can run it for free on any PC, server or on many NAS appliances.

u/rebelx · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Thank you! Very helpful reply. I've just started reading up on this sub, and it seems like a MoCA is a better implementation of a powerline. Actually, it sounds exactly like a powerline, except that instead of using the house's electrical wiring, the MoCA uses the coax connection. Am I understanding the technology correctly?

I do have one coax output in my room (where desktop 1 is located) which goes straight to the modem. This room is also where the router is located.

In the living room, I do have another coax output for where the cable box for the TV should go. Since I've currently cut the cord, we stream TV from the Xfinity app, and I've returned the cable box. This means I do have a coax cable free in the living room.

What I can do is connect a MoCA in the living room, and use my existing wifi extender to broadcast a signal from the MoCA.

Additionally, I can also get a small unmanaged switch (maybe 2-3 ports) and use that to directly hardwire the playstation that is sometimes used for video streaming! The MoCA to switch shouldn't have too many issues, right?

Are there any MoCAs that you'd recommend? Amazon has quite a few.

I'm also seeing a MoCA filter.. However, I do not have access to the exterior cabling, so would this be of any use to me?

u/xanksnap · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks this worked but now I have more questions:

I currently have 1 router, and 2 more routers running in "bridge mode". I assume that means that they are running as access points. I have them all wired with ethernet from the main router so I assume they are getting the internet signal over the wired network and then rebroadcasting it as wi-fi. They are all Linksys EA4500 model routers. Each is currently brodcasting a 2.4ghz and 5ghz signal, so I previously had 6 SSIDs total. Once I scan my neighborhood:

  1. I find all the channels everyone is using, and pick the least used channel on my device, right?

  2. Do I set the same, least used channel on all 3 of my devices or do I need to find like 6 different least used channels across my neighborhood and set 2 for each device (1 for the 2.4ghz and 1 for the 5ghz)?

  3. If I understand this concept correctly, my mobile and wifi devices are smart enough to 'latch onto' and 'release' wifi networks based on signal strength; the access points and routers don't need to communicate with each other to pick up and handoff devices, right?

  4. so who needs a 'mesh network'? I was under the assumption that the mesh network was needed to pick up and handoff devices and distribute the network load and stuff. It seems, from my understanding, that if you have a weak signal somewhere in your house, all you need to do is get an access point or two, connect it to your network with an ethernet cable and have it rebroadcast your wifi signal and find a channel that isnt crowded in your neighborhood and use that. Am I missing something? Is the only benefit of a mesh network is for people who dont want to run ethernet between access points and so are buying devices with a dedicated wi-fi band that can handle the backhaul without contaminating the 'internet' bandwidth?

  5. do you have a recommendation for access points I can stick around the house so I blanket my house with seamless wifi coverage? is this a good one for what I want:

    thank you!
u/Padadof2 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

its this model,
The UAP?

I'm in the burbs, so I have very limited wifi traffic, as there are only a handful of houses in sight. I understand(I think) about the 2.4 GHz and interference, but I honestly don't think that is it, based on the environment I'm in.

If I understand you correctly, my Luxul router, should have an WAN ip that comcast gives me. Let's call it "174..**.. I then tell the luxul router what the LAN should be for my network?, which I have as 192...***." I then set up the UniFi AP as a static IP in my router, and configure the AP as such? It also allows you to have a DHCP server. Why would I want my AP to be my DHCP server? Isn't that what the router does?

Thank you for taking time to help me, I appreciate it!

One last question, if I may,
when I set the WAN up with my router, the first two sets on numbers on WAN IP and Gateway IP are the same, but the third set is different? I've always seen them the same.
For Instance, 123.456.789.012 and 123.456.789.022 is what I've seen, but in my case it's 123.456.789.012 and 123.456.799.011. I made those up, of course

Thanks again..


u/HeathenWolfe · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I don't have any specific product recommendations, but for the last 7 months I've been using the method I proposed with a surplus router as AP and it has been rock solid. I'd guess any decent wireless router with WPA2-PSK (AES!) WiFi should be secure enough, these are dirt cheap & function as pretty good AP's. Preferably with two or three antennas so you can point them in XYZ directions to maximize the WiFi range around the house. Also make sure to disable DHCP on the router you are using as AP. Idk if all the routers support working in AP mode, so before buying look it up in the manual. I have an ethernet cable running from a LAN port on my primary router to a LAN port on my AP converted router. If you want something more fancy, then you are looking at stuff like Ubiquiti UniFi, but I think these need a PoE injector/switch to power them.

u/ftoomch · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
  • Switch wise, any gigabit port is fine - try this, or this which is what i have. They're unmanaged so no config is needed, just plug and play. Try to ensure your PC is using a gigabit port if possible. a card is only a tenner or so if not, and its worth the upgrade from 100meg.
  • For the storage system, a good bet is a NAS (Network Attached Storage) device. You can make one from a spare PC and using software like FreeNAS (I do), or you can buy a dedicate one (something like this )
  • Does your telly support upnp? if so, that might be all you need. If not you might want to buy a low power tiny PC like this, and install Kodi on it. Its a Linux OS thats based around an old Xbox media player, and its excellent. Failing that, you could buy a chromecast to stream from your PC to your telly.
u/LawHero4L · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Do you use Comcast for phone service? If so, you can't get rid of the rented gateway, unfortunately, but it can be placed in bridge mode and you can then put a router behind it to take over. If that is your situation, then a router like the TP-Link Archer C7 ($92) is a good choice. I'm a big fan of the Netgear R6700, which is a more powerful router than the C7 and is $88 if the coupon is available to you on Amazon.

If you do not use Comcast for phone, you can return the rented gateway and use your own modem and router. For simplicity's sake, here is a solid modem/router combo for $130 at Amazon.

u/MetaphysicalGuy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

By gig blast I assume you mean fiber maybe? Here is the fiber version of the router. Ubiquiti Edgerouter X SFP - Router - Desktop - Black (ER-X-SFP)

Access points: Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US)

The access points will act purely as a bridge from wireless to wired (aka not a router, just wifi) with your home's size I'd recommend probably 3 or possibly 4 of them depending on how well you want the wifi to reach. This type of wifi will be mesh meaning you'll only have one ssid and your phone will connect to whichever AP is closer automatically. (Youd need to download a controller software to a PC)

Again, this is just the most optimal setup and required a little bit knowledge of the devices and general networking to setup.

If you're strictly looking for good but plug and play this would be the best route: AmpliFi HD WiFi System by Ubiquiti Labs, Seamless Whole Home Wireless Internet Coverage, HD WiFi Router, 2 Mesh Points, 4 Gigabit Ethernet, 1 WAN Port, Ethernet Cable, Replaces Router & WiFi Extenders

Hope this helps clear things up!

u/Turtlecupcakes · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you can't run an ethernet cable directly, MoCA is usually your best bet. Other options include ethernet over powerline or wireless (but both of those are less reliable than MoCA). Ethernet cables can also run a pretty decent distance (~300ft), so you could look at whether running the cable up through the attic and back down (along the same path as the coax) is an option.

Yes, you will need 2 MoCA adapters. On both sides, they convert ethernet<->coax. So on the router side you'll plug the moca ethernet port into your router and you'll have a bit of a loop: Coax->Modem->Router->MoCA Adapter->Coax. On the office side it'll just be coax->ethernet.

It's also often recommended to get a MoCA filter, something like this: Install this device as the first thing on the cable that enters your house. It's designed to filter out the MoCA signal so that your network doesn't travel up the cable and into your neighbor's houses. You want your MoCA network to be active on all the coax within your house, but not leak out past that.

One final small note is that MoCA works as more than just a point-to-point network. If you have more rooms to connect that have coax, you can just add adapters and they'll all join the same network.

Here's a youtube video that covers moca pretty well:

u/krys2015 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First thing first what speed are you actually paying for? That will determine equipment for the most part.

Best bet is to get a dumb modem and a separate router. While I can't find a proper list of approved modems, silly comcast, the Arris Surfboard always gets solid reviews, coming in at $45. It tops out at 343 Mbps download and 131 upload speeds. I've never had comcast or any dealings with them, so anyone else that does please feel free to chime in.

As for router, I've been a fan of TP Links product, so I'd recommend the TP-Link Wireless Router AC1900. It will give you 4 gig ports, its dual band, meaning both 2.4 GHz (up to 600 mbps) and 5 GHz (up to 1300mbps) for wifi, priced at $90. That will keep you under the $200 price range and give you good service.

Edit; words are hard

u/realmain · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

For an AC1900, get the Archer C9, it is the same price, but newer model, and it's amazing. AND it's on sale right now, didn't realize that!!! (I bought it when it wasn't on sale).

I typically recommend the Archer C7 AC1750 to people. The Archer C5 AC1200 for people on a budget, but I didn't realize that the C5 and C7 are about the same price now, so might as well get the C7 instead of C5.

Here is a good combo for you. Archer C9 + 16x4 Modem. You should get it while it's on sale! $149.39.

u/dakoellis · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

whatever you do, do not buy an extender. they cause more problems than they solve.

With that kind of square footage (how many floors?) I'd say you're better off getting multiple APs. A triband device is nice and all if you're streaming to a bunch of devices in a small area, but getting 2 WAPs will give you the same experience if you stack them on top of each other, and a better one if you separate them. You can get everyone's favorite UAP-AC-Pro for $130, or you can get a TP-Link 3x3 WAP for $70. Of course, these would require a router still, and the ability to run cables.

If you don't have that ability, I would still suggest a mesh system over one of those tri-band routers. It just doesn't make sense to confine all the bands to 1 area when you can spread them out over a larger area for a better experience.

u/macropower · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So you would probably want the EdgeRouter X - it's pretty basic, but for your use it should be more than enough. I have an EdgeRouter Lite, the two are similar, but the EdgeRouter X is PoE, a little slower, and has switched LAN ports (doesn't matter for your uses).

I don't know much about modems, but you want to get one that's basically "all modem", since your EdgeRouter is going to be doing all the routing for it. I went with this one but I'm sure there are better options.

You can then plug in the AP wherever you want on the internal network. Could be directly to the router, doesn't matter. You will need to use something called PoE - you can either pass that through the EdgeRouter X or use the included adapter directly in-line. It's not complicated, just take a sec to read the instructions. :) Basically you just need to make sure you plug the AP into the correct port, else you could damage things. It's pretty evident.

As far as which AP you buy... Well, it's up to you really. This would probably be fine, but they also have long-range and AC versions. I've tried the Long-Range version and it's not super impressive. Not tried the AC version yet because very few of my devices actually support it sadly.

Let me know if you have any questions!

u/zardvark · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

+1 on Intel network cards.

Mikrotik products are well regarded and are particularly popular in Europe. In addition to the Mikrotik, the Edgerouter X is also very popular at this price point.

Neither of these is a plug and play solution, so you may wish to view the software manuals for each of these two products, before making a purchase decision. There are many useful YouTube vids for the Edgerouter X. This is a general overview:

In addition to the Crosstalk Solutions channel, look at the Ben Pin and Willie Howe channels for additional configuration guidance.

u/2PieceCombo · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You're sorta on the right track, but there is definitely room for some tweaks in your setup. First off, you dont need 3 actual routers. to achieve wifi like youre talking about, you need APs, or access points. These simply put out wifi, whereas a router has much more functionality. Secondly, dont buy powerline adapters that have passthough power as the more "noise" on the circuit the worse the performance will be. Id suggest something like the NETGEAR PL1000 In fact, you should avoid having anything else plugged into the wall outlet with the powerline. I did a lot of testing in a previous house where I was forced to use powerline adapters to get internet into my room.

As far as APs, check out the Ubiquiti AP-AC-LITE It's dual band, meaning newer devices will benefit from the 5ghz band, while any older devices you have will still have access to the 2.4ghz band.

You may only need 2 of these. Hang one in a central location on the first floor, and check wifi connection and do a speed test in every room. Depending on results, you could move the AP to the top floor and add a second in the basement. Hard to give perfect advise, as this kinda stuff is all very situational.

Onto the bad.. This setup is much less than ideal, especially if you intend to do any gaming on this setup. Powerline is very susceptible to interference, and sometimes an appliance turning on can cause a momentary connection drop. But not only that, you've now got the entire wifi network tied to this. A drop over the powerline will not disrupt your entire network.To avoid this whole mess, you could potentially use MoCa adapters, which is basically the same concept as powerline, but goes on the homes coax wiring instead of power wires. This of course requires coax already wired into the home to work. If you already have the coax in your house, id definitely use MoCa over powerline. You will be much more satisfied with the experience

u/foreverclumsy2 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
  • Yes I made sure each smart tv does in fact have ethernet ports to connect to. So I am good there. The tech guy really confused me when I asked him if my hypothetical setup would be sufficient which is how I found this sub lol. He mentioned the installed booster might conflict things???
  • Switch description states "Gigabit Ethernet Easy Smart Switch."
  • The Moca I linked states in the description as bonded. I asked him if the moca filter would be necessary as well. He just shrugged at me.

  • Which would you think to be the more ideal setup - switch or moca?
u/Beachbum2634 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

There are likely many options for your setup and maybe you'll get a lot of suggestions. I can tell you that I have a similar setup as far as home and devices. I had the Linksys WRT AC1900 (with DD-WRT open source firmware). It worked just fine, but I wanted a bit more control and options. I went with the Ubiquiti EdgeRouterX and the Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC LR (long range) access point. This provided the ability to separate out devices by network (VLANs) as well as give the option to be able to easily add additional access points if I need it. Head over to the r/Ubiquiti subreddit for more info if you are interested. This setup hits pretty close to your budget, but does require a bit more tech know-how than setting up a single all-in-one router. The Ubiquiti line is sort of considered Pro-Sumer I think.

u/pogidaga · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.

You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

u/pmmguy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

6120 is End of Life and is a bad choice for 200 Mbps. Get a SB6183 for sure. if you got budget get a CM600 or D3.1 modem but not really needed.

also, make sure Comcast has pushed correct BLAST PRO config file.

Always prefer separates. reasons below:

for modems, pretty much SB6183 or CM600 are fine. if you prefer Arris, go for 6183. - 6183 - CM600

for Routers, few options:

AC1900 R7000. Netgear

Archer C9

Have you thought about google or Orbi Mesh systems? it gives pretty good performance. - Orbi (this is from Netgear and this gives hell of WIFI performance) - google mesh
How about Modem + EdgeRouterLite + Ubiquiti APs. This is complex setup and bit expensive - Edgerouter lite - ubiquiti AP
Let me know if you have other questions.

u/nubgrub · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Well the good news is it doesn't look like anything super hard to run spec wise (i.e. you aren't transferring large files back and forth, streaming blurays rips, etc).

2.4 vs 5 ghz are the two bands of WIFI. Dual band means it can accept either one. 2.4GHz is more common but devices are increasingly moving towards dual band capable (most modern laptops and streamers including your Fire Stick are dual band). Generally speaking, 2.4 GHz is not as fast (it's not slow either but I believe it maxes at 450 Mbps) but has longer range; it can be more congested as well if you are around others since it has longer range and is more common (both in WIFI devices and other home electronics). 5 GHz can be faster (up to 1300 Mbps for a single AC connection), is less common, and has shorter range; there is less interference due to the less congestion and shorter range. It would be best to use both (devices close to 5GHz use that, devices further away use 2.4ghz).

I mentioned the attic because while wiring your own home is a whole thing, you might be able to run one cable to an AP (Access Point, a WIFI only device) in the middle or most strategic location of the home. As an example, I did this in my parent's home. They had a 3000 SQFT long, single floor rectangular home. I used a Long Range Unifi N AP. It had a POE injector (power and data on one ethernet cable) and just had to run one cable to the middle of the house.

For example, you could install one of these in your living room either closer to the stairs or the eating room depending on where the majority of your devices will be.

Covering the backyard is probably going to be another AP; however, if you have crawl space, you could wire an outdoor AP same as the unifi (in fact, the model I linked is weather resistant).

u/matmatician · 0 pointsr/HomeNetworking

One question- is it a modem/router combo? Like one of the 2 in 1's that ISPs like to provide?

If so that will probably change the recommendations. Google WiFi seems to be pretty much the commonly accepted answer for ease of use.

Otherwise I've had a TP-Link 2600AC running for years, I'd say the 1750 with the companion mobile app is also a great (cheaper) answer too.

TP-Link Archer 1750

u/ilikedamoney · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

thanks again for your fast replies. I really appreciate this. Im just going to return these APs since it doesnt seem like i will need them. So i just want to quadruple check the configuration while im still able to return the things i bought. So here is my final question and im sorry to keep berating you with questions... So youre saying i can have it be my Comcast Cisco DPC3941B Modem/Router connected to my Ubiquiti Unifi US-8-150W Switch connected to 5 routers.. something like 5 NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) and that will work? And if so, how will i assign the IPs to each of the routers? Would i use comcasts online management thing or ubiquiti's switch management thing? lol again thanks so much and im sorry for all the novice questions.

u/superprokyle · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks for the advice - seems like the best solution. Purchased one and will see how the range and performance is before I buy another. Also appreciate your use non-technical language and providing a simple overview (exactly what I need haha).

To be clear, I only need to buy the following:

u/MTCyberSec · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Like u/washu_k mentioned, a patch panel would be the best solution so the cables don't get damaged from moving things around. If you do decide to crimp this ends into RJ-45 connectors you can use this image to determine how the wires should be placed. You'll also need to buy a crimping tool. They're fairly easy to use but you may want to practice on a small patch cable first.



If you're only goes to have a few devices connected to the switch a small 8 port switch would work. They're only slightly more than a 5 port switch and gives you 3 more ports for future expansion. Assuming you just want to connect all computers to the same network, an unmanaged switch is a good choice. The one below should be a good choice for simple home use.



u/zephiKK · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm surprised all of the other posts in this post doesn't mention your router and the capabilities of WiFi.

  1. Your router is very old and doesn't even support 802.11ac.
  2. Your router is dual-band but it is a bit insignificant because it's outputting 2.4 GHz and 5.0GHz but only at 802.11n capabilities.
  3. 802.11n is capable of going up to 300 Mb/s speeds theoretically. Keyword theoretically, a lot of speed is lost in wireless transmission.

    To take things into perspective, I have a RT-AC86U (~$170 router) on gigabit internet. I'm only getting 80 Mb/s on 2.4GHz wireless (20MHz, N Only) in the same room as my router. On 5GHz, I get 500-600Mb/s (80MHz).

    If you want to expand your internet capabilities on WiFi, you should buy a router that is capable of 802.11ac with a good range on 5GHz.

    Like you said, it is a "brand new" router that you purchased, I suggest you return it and pick another router with 802.11ac minimum.

    Some popular routers are: TP-Link Archer C7, ASUS AC68U, Netgear R7800, R6700 is on sale right now. $79
u/cosmicosmo4 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Don't worry about the number of ports on the router. You should get a switch to provide the ethernet ports that you need. A perfectly good 8-port gigabit switch is like $20. example

For the router and APs, in your budget, you could get a Unifi security gateway ($140) and 2 Unifi UAP-AC-Lites ($70 each). That would be a super capable and very easy to manage set up. It's possible to go cheaper on the router, like using a EdgeRouter-X ($60) instead of the USG, which is perfectly capable for home use, but not as smooth to configure as the Unifi line.

u/charlie_work__ · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First question, have you connected a computer directly through the Ethernet before? The WiFi can be forcing the authentication every time you connect but it could also be at the router level, meaning if the Ethernet jack is connected to the same router it is possible that it is configured to still prompt for sign in. If you know that's not the case and an Ethernet connection is directly connected with a live connection then you're good to go this route. If your internet is provided, you don't actually need a router. You simply need an access point. It has no routing capabilities and only broadcasts a WiFi network that runs back through the network. Here's a great inexpensive option for what you are looking for.

TP-Link Wireless N300 2T2R Access Point, 2.4Ghz 300Mbps, 802.11b/g/n, AP/Client/Bridge/Repeater, 2x 4dBi, Passive POE (TL-WA801ND)

Setting it up as an access point will assure you don't have to do any more advanced network configuration due to double NAT or relaying DHCP servers.

u/AgeOfEgos · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks both of you for the reply! Regarding the controller--that's a great idea--I didn't know I couldn't incorporate the EdgeRouter into my controller instance (I'm new to controllers though). It does look like the Unified Gateway is the way to go.


Also, after thinking on it--I guess I'll splurge for a 16 port POE+ switch just so I'm safe. So the hardware update would be;



Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway



UniFi Network Switch US-16-150W Switch Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP 150W



Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US)



Do I really need a Cloud Key?


u/Alt_Shift_Delete · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thank you for such a detailed reply. After your reply and checking out those links the other comments make much more sense to me.

i checked out the equipment you recommended, read more about them online to get a better understanding but its very expensive for me.

I thought I'd buy a cheaper router for example
archer c50. or archer C7. and get one of the UAP you mentioned but apparently getting equipment from different companies causes problems in switching connections automatically when you move around the house, so it'd be better to get ones from the same company.

Cause of that what do you think about one of those archer C50 or C7 with a TP link access point like AC1350.??

Yes regarding your last paragraph i got that sorted out yesterday. Asked Verizon to convert COAX to ethernet. Yes its through the MoCA adapter in case I decide to get TV services from verizon in the future.

u/specfreq · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Bufferbloat is actually a very complex issue but doesn't stem from wireless. It's mainly caused by routers having more and more memory as a "bandaid" for needing to deal with more clients and connections at higher speeds. With such a massive buffer on board, no back-off signal is sent and it just takes a long time to clear out the queue.

A new router may help, and I know you'll probably be ending up getting one for your faster internet speed. For now, you might consider trying out DD-WRT or OpenWRT and then setting up an AQM like fq_CoDel. I'm not running it at the moment, but it brought my latency from +100ms down to around 20ms under network load.

I believe fq_CoDel will be integrated into DOCIS 3.1 modems... which we're all still waiting for.

For the WiFi only slowdown, I really don't know what to say other than invest in a decent AP like Unifi lite, this might interest you as well.

u/rmg22893 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you're looking to get your hands dirty, here's what I'd recommend. Fair warning: this equipment is fairly setup-intensive, but would be able to handle basically anything you could throw at it. It also has the advantage of being able to place the access point wherever you'd like in order to optimize your wireless coverage, while leaving the other equipment out of the way:

Arris SB6141 $70

EdgeRouter Lite 3-port $90

Unifi AP AC Lite $80

TP-Link 5-port Gigabit Switch $18 ($8 with rebate)

Total: $258/$248 with rebate

Otherwise, I'd just get the Arris SB6141 and a good router/switch/AP combo, which there are plenty of recommendations for on this subreddit.

u/automate_the_things · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

It would, but you'd never be able to use it with anything else in the future, since pretty much nothing is passive 24v PoE, just legacy Ubnt gear. Even Ubnt is moving to all active PoE.

I'd get this one:

It's configurable, so it'll do both passive and active PoE, so it's future-proof.

And yes, if you have a PoE switch, you just plug the Cat5e into the switch and then into the AP and the AP is powered.

If you buy the AC-AP-LITE in 1-packs, they come with a PoE injector (single port), so aside from clogging up a few outlets and taking up space, you don't technically need a PoE switch for a couple of APs, unless you want one (tho I think the PoE switch will be lower electricity usage, but only barely).

u/lilotimz · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

It's a waste of money spending $250 on a mesh setup with dedicated backhaul radios if you're not going to use it when a superior option of running MOCA backhaul exist.

You can get 3 AC Lite's or 4 EAP 225 for the same price as as the RBK40 setup.

Does all your houses coax cables converge into the basement? If so then all you need to do is get a simple wire only router like an Edgerouter X and connect an ethernet cable from the router to a MOCA adapter connected to the COAX splitter.

Then at the locations you want to have good wifi you'll need another moca adapter connected to the coax coming out of the wall and ethernet out into a wireless access point like the two mentioned above. In addition you can have say ethernet switches connected to the MOCA adapters. This way you can plug in devices like your PS4, desktops, etc in addition to a WAP at the same time. Doing this will reliably get you the 150 mbps you're paying for at each location.

u/foodnguns · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

are you getting comcasts phone or are you planing to use voice over IP?

If your getting comcasts phone your options are limited to modems that support it.

If voice over ip,then no restrictions really modem wise.

If your getting comcasts phone,then atleast new, I dont see any modems that can support 400 mbps and voice in your range

If your not getting comasts phone then

Something like

plus some cabling should be right around $300

that gets you a cable modem that can support your 400 mbps,a router that can route that fast with 2 open lan ports and an access point for wifi.

You can do 400 mbps over Ethernet on this set up,400 over wifi I imagine would be possible in the very best of conditions.

u/garester · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Does the Frontier modem have built-in MoCA capabilities by any chance? I had a similar situation in a three story townhome. Each room had coax, and instead of running Ethernet to each of the floors, I utilized a MoCA adapter to provide internet connectivity to the rooms over coax, since each room was already wired for coax. The cable modem provided by Comcast had built-in MoCA capabilities, so all I had to do was ensure all of the coax outlets were on the same splitter, and add a MoCA Ethernet adapter on the other floor to extend network connectivity to my office. Below is my current setup.

[Outside Incoming Coax]
[Coax splitter in the Attic]
| -> (Cable modem on 2nd floor) <-> den switch
| -> (MoCA adapter on 1st floor <-> office switch

However, if the Frontier cable modem doesn’t have built-in MoCA capabilities, then you’ll need a second MoCA adapter to terminate the MoCA connection at both ends:

[Outside Coax]
| -> (Coax Outlet #1) -> MoCA Adapter -> Frontier Cable Modem -> switch/router
| -> (Coax Outlet #2) -> MoCA Adapter -> Ethernet Switch

I recommend this kit: “Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack (ECB6200K02)”

You’ll also want to install a MoCA filter on the outside incoming coax line so the MoCA network demarc terminates there and doesn’t extend outside of the home:

Hope it works out! Let me know if that doesn’t make sense, and feel free to PM with questions.

u/Bmic31 · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First, I would suggest this MoCA adapter. Cheaper and Motorola generally makes reliable equipment.

Motorola MOCA Adapter for Ethernet over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1000)

Second, you just need to make sure the coax line your modem is hooked up to is split somewhere and also connected to the room you want the other adapter to be. You'll also want to purchase a MoCa filter to keep your MoCa in and block any other outside MoCa that others may not have blocked on their own.

Filter, MoCA "POE" Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking ONLY

You'll just need one on the input cable to your home. Best outside where the exterior cable line meets your interior cable line.

I work for a cable company that uses MoCa extensively and I'm a huge fan of it. I've seen MoCa give 200-300 mb consistently using MoCa 2.0. Next best thing to straight Ethernet.

u/ldjarmin · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you really want to have a high quality, robust solution then ditch the consumer grade stuff entirely. What I (and many others) would suggest is something like using the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite as your router. Then you run Ethernet to one (or more, if your house is big enough) Ubiquiti Unifi Access Point to provide wifi. These are rock solid, business class products for a great price. And the best part is if you need more coverage, you just plug in another Unifi access point and put it where you want.

As for a modem, most people on here would recommend the Motorola line, like the SB6141 or the SB6183, but those are dependent on being on your ISP's approved modem list (though most major American ISPs approve of these particular modems).