Reddit reviews Neiko 40508 Digital Multimeter

Get a pi 3, because integrated wifi + bluetooth.

I would suggest that you buy a good quality power supply (Canakit is good, else the official rpi one). Just don't use chinese crap or a phone charger.

Also, get a good SD card. I strongly suggest a Samsung Evo+ 16GB bought from a reputable seller.

A breakout board of this type can be useful (albeit not essential at all)
https://www.adafruit.com/product/914

I personally bought a kit from Canakit including the previously mentionned stuff. It's a good kit, but not necessarily a great value. The SD card they include is good but not great, and I didn't like the case.

Then for everything electronics, Aliexpress and Ebay are your new best friends. You'll find the same stuff on Amazon, but you'll end up paying 2-3x the price. I cannot suggest a kit of electronic components, because it is a bit ridiculous to just buy 30 resistors. Get 600 of them for 5$ instead.

Edit: here is a copy of a previous answer I've given to a similar question.

Basic Power supply. You probably already have a 5v wall wart, check if it can supply 2.5A. If it came with a product you bought, it's decent quality. If you need to buy one, get it from Element 14 or an other reputable store. You can find cheaper ones, but I strongly advise against getting a random Chinese psu. Doing so would be asking for trouble.

Numerical signal doesn't require high quality cables. This would will do just fine. 3.72 CAD http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6FT-HDMI-1-4-3D-Cable-HDTV-High-Speed-Ethernet-ps3-bluray-1080p-FREE-SHIPPING-/131144973049?hash=item1e88d97af9:g:2gcAAOxyJX1TAj3K

I don't think this is essential at all, but the kit you linked contained one. I bought this one and I'm happy with it. If you want to save some money, I would skip this guy.
$4.10 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Raspberry-Pi-model-B-plus-T-cobbler-expansion-DIY-kit-GPIO-cable-breadboard-GPIO-T-adapter/2046473508.html

$2.04 830 points decent cheapo breadboard. Maybe get more than one. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/181227589427?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Aligator clips. I think 50cm is too long, maybe get 2 sets and shorten the cables of one.
$1.55 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1set-10pcs-Alligator-Clips-Electrical-DIY-Test-Leads-Alligator-Double-ended-Crocodile-Clips-Roach-Clip-Test/32580823346.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.11.Q66gPn&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=9259cb1d-c2e2-42ff-a599-3f468f6ecc6e

The kit you linked contains 5 resistors. That is a joke. Get this assortment and have fun sorting them.
$2.68 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/30-Kinds-1-4w-Resistance-1-Accuracy-Metal-Film-Resistor-Bag-600pcs-in-1-Set-Passive/1752861568.html

$1.10 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100PC-Lot-3MM-5MM-Led-Kit-Mixed-Color-Red-Green-Yellow-Blue-White-Light-Emitting-Diode/32376627762.html You can also get RGB if you want, but they are a bit more expansive. LEDS sure are fun to play around with.

Jumpers. Essential to connect stuff to the pi. $2.84 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dupont-line-120pcs-20cm-male-to-male-male-to-female-and-female-to-female-jumper-wire/1490773403.html
More jumpers. Those are for connecting stuff on a breadboard. I don't really like those as your board will get messy quickly, but at least this kit contains shorter jumpers than the previous one, so it's a nice addition. I would suggest you get 6 colors x 25m of 22 AWG SOLID CORE wire. You can cut it to length and make your own jumpers. I got a kit from Elenco for about 20$ on Amazon. If you want to do some breadboarding, I consider than as an essential. $1.38 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-65pcs-lot-Jump-Wire-Cable-Male-to-Male-Flexible-Jumper-Wires-for-Arduino-Breadboard/32437796067.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.10.PzcAVY&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=ad849cd3-deff-4e0b-92ae-e3d15373fd4a

Cheapo potentiometer kit. $3.30 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-10pcs-Linear-Potentiometer-1K-Ohm-5K-Ohm-20K-Ohm-100K-Ohm-220K-Ohm-Assortment/533133005.html
Those with 4 leads are a pain in the breadboard. They keep jumping out and stuff. Plus you won't find any use for the extra pair of leads.

$1.99 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-100PCS-2-pins-6-6-5-mm-Switch-Tactile-Push-Button-Switches-6x6x5mm/1523104421.html

Not essential, but cheap and fun!
$0.99 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-LOT-0-56-inch-1-Bit-7-Segment-Red-LED-Display-Digital-Tube-Plastic-Metal/32335395078.html

You will need those sooner than you think to make a a circuit you'll find on instructables. For one pezo, you can't go wrong.
$0.95 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-20PCS-LOT-New-NE555-NE555P-NE555N-555-Timers-DIP-8-TEXAS/32328453891.html

Because you won't do breadboarding with your pi all the time. Get a battery connector (next item) to power the board. I suggest you bookmark this shop! Robotdyn is the BEST SHOP on Aliexpress by far. Few items, but very high quality (like, amazing quality and the best packaging I've seen so far). Why not get an arduino nano or uno for a few dollars? Sometimes an arduino is better suited for a project, and they are so cheap.
$1.19 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Breadboard-Power-Supply-5V-3-3V-1A/32581547480.html

$0.51 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-2pcs-90-DC-9V-Battery-button-power-plug-for-Arduino-Mega-2560-1280-UNO/32236294183.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.2.vdMJ0V&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=5c916f06-2c87-48bf-9075-e191078d3d89

Cheap cutters, but they cut very well! The only cutters you'll need for a while. $2.14 Wire cutters http://www.ebay.ca/itm/322001218703?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
You'll also need some long nose pliers. Again, no need to get anything fancy.

But if you want to make a gift to yourself, I am absolutely in love with those pliers (make in Italy) http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-PN-2007-Long-Nose-Outside-Serrated/dp/B00FZPHEW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1460924870&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+pliers

I don't consider a case as an essential. But I love cases. And this one is one of my favorites. It's compatible with the pi3 and because it allows a good airflow, you won't need to add a fan. Just get a "heatsink for rpi" (1$ on Aliexpress) if it doesn't come with your pi.
$3.15 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Raspberry-Pi-2-model-B-Acrylic-Clear-Case-with-logo-Compatible-with-Raspberry-Pi-B-plus/32334774743.html

Nice and cheap kit, but by no mean essential for a beginner.
$3.84 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-set-RM065-Trimming-Potentiometer-Variable-Resistors-Assorted-Kit-10-Values-Each-10pcs/32596638037.html

If you get in the hobby of electronics, you'll need some caps. This kit has most values you'll ever need.
$6.50 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/15-value-120pcs-50V-Electrolytic-Capacitor-Assortment-Kit-Set-/131155968234?hash=item1e898140ea:g:w0QAAOxykmZTOlin

Finally, I strongly suggest you get a multimeter. Either get the cheapest one you can find like this one : http://www.amazon.com/General-Hand-held-Multimeter-Transistor-Function/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1460925081&sr=8-6&keywords=multimeter (it will do everything you need just fine) or get a Unity UT-61E for about $50. The absolute best meter for the electronic hobbyist, but by no mean required for a beginner. Just don't go in the middle. Don't.

A voltage tester or digital multimeter

I don't know anything about dealers in Canada, sorry, but I do have a few tips as to what you need to realize before getting into mechanical mods.

Learn Ohm's Law.

V = IR

Voltage = Amperes * Resistance

Though, with a a mech mod, you're more likely to need to know:

Amperes = Voltage/Resistance

The reason for this is with a mechanical mod, you have no safety switch to stop you from overexerting your battery, which can severely damage it and cause catastrophic failure. Using Ohm's Law for instance, if you make a coil that's set up for 0.6Ω and you're battery is currently charged to 4.2V, then you're battery needs to be able to withstand a current of 4.2/0.6 = 7 Amperes. If you start going to lower resistance, you need more amps, and it increases quickly (4.2/0.4 = 10.5).

Learn your batteries

Do your research on batteries before you purchase them. Stick to IMR batteries (as opposed to ICR) because they're generally regarded as a safer chemistry. This way, in the event that you do have a catastrophic failure, you won't do as much damage. Typically with an IMR, the battery will just pop and release some toxic gases. Not pleasant, but better than a violent explosion.

Relatedly, always test the voltage your battery is charged to after taking it off the charger. If it's charging over the recommended range for that battery, don't use that charger and dispose of the battery (most batteries will have a recommended max of 4.2V).

Learn your mod

Does your mod have vent holes in the event of a battery failure? If not, take it back. Even with safe chemistry batteries, if there's nowhere for them to vent those gases, your mod essentially becomes a pipe bomb.

What kind of switch does your mod have? Does it have a locking ring? These are things you need to be aware of.

Learn to spot a catastrophic failure

It happens with the best of batteries. They can and do fail. If your mod starts getting warm, consider that it is a possibility that your battery is failing. If it gets hot, be ready to toss your mod and move away from it.

Learn to use a multimeter
How do you expect to test the resistance of your coils? The voltage of your battery charge?

A Multimeter

This one appears to be similar to the one I use, but I've had mine for years (work with electronics a lot) so I can't find the exact one. Any multimeter should be fine so long as it can measure low resistance and DC voltage.


Not trying to scare you away, but realize that there is a bit of knowledge you have to have before getting into mechanical mods and the like in order to be safe.

> Is there any way to check the speakers without using another amp?

Not really, no. About the only thing you can do is to measure the resistance of it with a multimeter - If the resistance is anything below 2 ohm, you should not connect them to another amp, as a shorted speaker can fry an amp.

A multimeter can be had for less than a visit to McDonalds

> Couldn't I just hook up a small battery to the speaker and see if it makes some sound?

No. A battery will just make the woofer move in one direction and stay there. No sound will be heard.

If you are going to be carrying on for a while in this hobby (and I highly recommend it!), then adding a cheap multimeter to your toolkit (and learning a bit about how to use it) would be a good plan.

It's a basic tool to have when learning circuit design. Even a cheap one is useful. A half-decent one will have an audible continuity tester. That'll let you know when a switch is closed.

There are all kinds of super-cheap ones and plenty of midrange ones. Find one with good leads and probes (the wires,) as crappy ones can give you all sorts of bad readings.

If you have lots of money, the best meters are made by Fluke.

In the mean time, a few wires, a battery, and a little lightbulb can work to test the switches for their open & closed states.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40508-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=asc_df_B00066ZZO4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309722091285&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18374242808627692046&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018127&hvtargid=pla-436226440025&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60439548223&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309722091285&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18374242808627692046&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018127&hvtargid=pla-436226440025

$8 will give you peace of mind my friend! I wish you good luck!

550W may be recommended for the Athlon FX 8350, but you won't actually draw anything close to that with just a mainboard and CPU alone. The TDP on that CPU is 125W and it won't draw much more than that even at full bore. If you're not running a beefy GPU, you could probably get by with as low as a 300W PSU. The 500W PSU should be just fine assuming it's not bad.

I'm confused about whether the 550W PSU you have has an 8-pin CPU power connector or not. If it only has a 4-pin connector, the system likely won't boot.

FWIW, the only time I've seen a system powering on weakly like what you're describing is one time my buddy was building his first PC and didn't use the mainboard standoffs (thought they were thumbscrews) and screwed his mainboard directly to the case, thus shorting it out.

If you build your own systems often, I recommend having a cheap multimeter on hand for these sorts of situations. You can turn the PSU on independently of the computer with the paper clip trick, then check the rail voltages to make sure they're roughly in spec.

Doesn't have to be that much. I use the one I linked below, it came with a $20 stereo wiring kit I bought at Walmart in like 2004. If you're going to do your own work on a bike it's not a bad tool to have and will save the cost of itself the first time it points you away from replacing a part that tests within spec.

Linky

If I were to buy one today I think I'd pay a little more for more quality, but this guy has gotten the job done which is why I haven't replaced it.

Step one: disconnect the isolator cable from the starter battery.

Step 2: find or become a person who understands the electric system you want and has the tools to diagnose what you have. Note, the 12.9 volts on the isolator box or document doesn't make your starter battery have 12.9 volts.

If you get a meter, separate your 2 systems, post here the voltages of the two there will be help.
Harbor Freight has a meter like this one except red
I have a coupon for it free. It comes with enough instructions to measure your battry voltage.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00066ZZO4

Yep, just start with the basics before you get more complicated. Make sure you have power, then follow power along until it's not there, and figure out why. If power is going everywhere and the HU still won't work, it's busted or has a blown fuse.

A test light is cheap and easy to use, just make sure it'll work with 12 volt DC. A multimeter is much more versatile and not too expensive. I have this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066ZZO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works OK for a cheap thing. For basic testing, at least.

Ohmmeters are relatively inexpensive compared to heads and speakers.
example

They are simple to use. set the rotary switch to 200 ohms, plug a speaker cable into the jack on the back of the speaker cab, and place the probes on the plug at the free end of the cable. The meter will display the resistance of the cab. Typically, the reading you get will be 75% of the impedance of the cab.

https://www.amazon.ca/Neiko-40508-Hand-Held-Multimeter-Transistor/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=asc_df_B00066ZZO4/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292961177215&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10664663869954113267&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061280&hvtargid=pla-436226440025&psc=1

I live in Canada so it’s a .ca domain. But this is something you would need to diagnose

If you are lucky, then the problem is with the power supply. Do you have a multimeter? You can get a cheap one on Amazon for $6:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00066ZZO4

If you open up the projector and post some pictures of the inside, I can give you some troubleshooting instructions that might help.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C#Cable_wiring

Not sure exactly what you are going for, but one of the reds and the tin might do it. Just don't try it while connected to anything you care about, and don't start a fire.

If you are not going to look up the USB-C specifications, at least use a resistor so you don't create a short. I have no idea if it's standard design to handle a short. (I think USB-C cables are suppsed to have a small board with resistors and other shit in the connector.... Don't try to use a surface mount resistor though. Go buy or scavange a through-hole. Ideally you would look up which one, if any, you will need, but any is safer than none.)

Also, if you are going to play around with this, buy a multimeter and learn how to use it. A multi-meter can tell you which wires are hot, plus other shit you will learn about.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00066ZZO4

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40508-Multimeter-Resistance-Transistor/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497462745&sr=8-6&keywords=multimeter

This one isn't even $8 shipped and works fine for "is there voltage or not". Hell, it was actually reasonably accurate for the price. I used this exact meter for 2 years, even after I ran it over once with a Grand Prix and taped it back together, until I bought myself a Fluke.