Reddit reviews Nilight 270PCS 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing Double-wall Adhesive Lined Shrink Wrap Tubing Assortment Kit 6 Size 2 Color KIT Black Red, 2 years Warranty
We found 5 Reddit comments about Nilight 270PCS 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing Double-wall Adhesive Lined Shrink Wrap Tubing Assortment Kit 6 Size 2 Color KIT Black Red, 2 years Warranty. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Environmental & safety-3:1 Ratio | 270 pieces | Thin adhesive inside liner. | Double Color: Black&RedEasy to use-Heat activated adhesive lining provides impermeable seal to salt water and other liquids.Multiple sizes-6 Sizes: 1/16"(70 pcs), 3/32"(80 pcs), 1/8"(80 pcs), 3/16"(20 pcs), 1/4"(12 pcs), 3/8"(8 pcs)Box organized- All packed in a plastic container for easy organization and storage.Usage- suitable for electrical insulation, wire bundling, colour coding, mechanical protection, wire/cable joints and daily repairs etc，Great for Christmas light wiring, marine, auto, and misc. electrical applications.
> I'm looking more for what, if anything, is needed in the wiring behind the socket.
You need an Automotive Receptacle, and an Inline Fuse (2A is plenty) to protect it.
> But I'm wondering if there is some other interference on that battery and the wiring that I'm going to need to address.
What else do you have hooked up on the Leisure Battery and how do you charge it?
-------
Automotive Socket:
https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Marine-12-Volt-Power-Outlet/dp/B003EET3XY/
(IIRC 12V and 24V use the same physical socket, though you might want to look for a 24V specific one if you don't want to risk it)
------
Inline Fuse (Actual Fuse Not Included):
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400ATCFH16-5-Fuse-Holder-Gauge/dp/B008CVPE8C
RioRand Dual USB 12v to 5v 3a transformer; Scosche 16ga fuse holder with two right angle usb cables from startech.com
Do you know what wiper motor you have? Or what year and model car it came from? From that we can get the amperage.
Voltage doesn't matter-- everything is 12 volts (DC).
Amperage does matter, but I'm guessing your wiper motor uses around 1A. The relay of the remote I linked to earlier has a rating of 5A, so you might put a 5A fuse in there. If there's a short, it will definitely go above 5A and blow the fuse (which is what you want). Here's an example of a fuse holder that would work, but there a million options.
Since you're using a 5A fuse, you could use 16 or 18 AWG wire (rated for 7 and 10A).
So far I've been talking about the circuit for the motor that passes through the relay. For the receiver's power, you could use another 5A fuse with the same wire just to be consistent, though it really is only using milli-amps.
So basically, we size the protection (the 5A fuse) above the normal operating current (1A?), and then everything else is sized to be higher than the protection (5A+).
Finally, you'll wonder how you're supposed to connect the wires together. The best option is to solder the wires together and put heat shrink around the joint. If you can't handle that, they sell crimp wire splices for that. You can buy a real crimper or just use pliers.
1.
Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.
One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).
I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals
I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals
I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.
2.
Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.
I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker
That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)
Fuse Kit
In-line Fuse Holder
---
In general, I think my system will basically look like this:
Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V
Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V
Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits
Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.
Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.
 
What do you think of this proposed setup?
I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.
But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!
cool, so would this do the trick -
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400ATCFH16-5-Fuse-Holder-Gauge/dp/B008CVPE8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493947984&sr=8-1&keywords=16+gauge+fuse